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    Blog
    36'' Thames River Police Launch by Robbob
    After the successful build of the โ€˜Vintage Model Worksโ€™ RAF Crash Rescue Tender I was asked by Mike Cummings of VMW if I would undertake to build a prototype of their new model with the aim of checking the construction method and the assembly instructions for accuracy before the kit is put into production. The model is a โ€˜Thames River Police Launchโ€™ and is based on the original design by Phil Smith for the Veron company, this was a very popular model kit in the late 50โ€™s and 60โ€™s and sold for the princely sum of 43 shillings and tuppence, approximately ยฃ2.15 in todayโ€™s money but an equivalent cost of ยฃ48.50 in 1960. This design has been updated to accommodate electric propulsion and radio control by Colin Smith, the son of the original designer and it has been re-scaled to be 36โ€ in length where the original was 24โ€ which gives much more scope for detailing and provides more โ€˜hiding roomโ€™ for the drive, control systems and all the associated wiring. The kit produced by VMW uses the same construction techniques as the original and the materials are a combination of balsa and plywood both of which a laser and CNC cut for precision. The ply and balsa materials supplied are of very high quality as one would expect from VMW and all the stripwood for the chines, rubbing strakes and deck detailing is included, even the dowel required for the mast is in the box, very comprehensive! The kit also includes white metal fittings such as the fairleads and stanchions, and the searchlight and horns. The glazing for the windows comes in the kit too. The instruction sheet supplied is in need of revision as it is largely taken directly from the original as written by Phil Smith and some of the terminology needs updating, for instance the ply bottom and side skins are referred to as โ€˜strakesโ€™ but I understand that a re-write of the instructions is in hand along with an updated plan showing the best positioning for the motor, prop-shaft, battery, ESC, receiver, rudder and servo. During construction I have added a few additional pieces of ply or balsa as reinforcement or supports and substituted some balsa parts for ply where I thought a stronger material would be better. I also added some hatches to give access to the wiring at the bow and the rudder & servo at the stern but largely I have not gone โ€˜off planโ€™ to any extent. The pictures show the model in itโ€™s present state (Nov 2018) and is ready for painting and finishing.
    4 months ago by robbob
    Blog
    The well deck floor & sides.
    The โ€˜boxโ€™ of the prototype Iโ€™m building is made of balsa wood, later production models are produced in ply and have the planking lines laser etched on the floor panels, and as balsa doesnโ€™t take stain particularly well I have used separate obeche panels to line the box internally that can be finished with the Teak stain that Iโ€™m using. This does, however, mean that I can apply the deck lines using a black indelible marker pen and incorporate some detail lines around the motor housing. I started by cutting and shaping two obeche panels that join along the centre line of the deck and fit neatly around the motor mount and prop-shaft, then I used some tracing paper over the panels to make a test pattern for the planking lines. When I was happy with the layout of the lines I first applied two coat of Teak stain to the panels, and when that was dry I used a .8mm pen to mark the deck lines, the ink takes a while to dry fully and I found it all too easy to smudge some lines ๐Ÿ˜ก which had to be very quickly taken off with a dampened cotton bud and re-applied. After 24 hours the ink had fully dried and was impervious to smudging and resistant to removal by any means (except a solvent). The floor panels were then glued down to the balsa floor with an even spread of aliphatic glue and weighted down over all of the area as there was a tendency for the panels to curl and lift. Each side panel was made in one piece and then separated into two parts to make the fitting easier, the join will be covered with a vertical detail strip, and they were also stained before being glued and clamped in place. No lining detail was applied to the side panels as Iโ€™ll do this with other surface applied pieces later but only in the area outside of the cabin. All the panels were given a couple of coats of satin lacquer to enhance and protect the finish.
    4 days ago by robbob
    Blog
    Cooling the motor โ€“ update.
    Iโ€™m grateful to mturpin013 for commenting that he considered using the propeller adaptor supplied with the Turnigy motor as it prompted me to retrieve mine from the box and adapt it to secure the fan on the end of the motor. I cut off the threaded shaft from the prop adaptor and the end was ground flat and then I placed it on the end of the motor stub and used a scriber through the bolt holes to mark the positions on the flange of the fan. The fan was then removed and the holes drilled through and opened up to 3mm and then it was a simple matter to put the fan back on the motor and attach the new piece to the motor using the three 2.5mm cap head screws which are supplied with the prop adaptor. I think this is a far better โ€˜engineeringโ€™ solution to securing the fan to the rotor than a spot of CA. Because the addition of the fan was so straightforward and effective I have decided to implement it on the model anyway so I cut an opening through the end panel of the motor cover and put some stainless steel mesh over that to finish it. The motor is now connected to the ESC and I have done some tests with the motor running and Iโ€™m delighted to report that thereโ€™s a very healthy airflow through the motor cover ๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ‘. It turns out that my modification is not unique at all and credit is due to reilly4 who did something similar to the twin motors on one of his boats long before I came up with the idea. He posted a โ€˜photo of his boat when replying to mturpin013 on the subject of servo mounts. Take a look at the motors in his picture!
    11 days ago by robbob
    Forum
    Help identifying
    Can anyone help me identify this boat. Bought it in 2nd hand shop has rudder and
    prop shaft
    fitted.
    14 days ago by juskiddin
    Forum
    What size brushless motor?
    I'm building a new Fairey Hunstman 31 from a kit bought through SLEC. It has provision for a single
    prop shaft
    and I've bought a 2 bladed plastic x-shape prop, 25mm based on a recommendation from SLEC. What is the best/most efficient/most powerful brushless electric motor/ battery combination I can fit? I'm a novice at this and my previous boat kit had all parts supplied. Thank you in anticipation....๐Ÿ‘
    14 days ago by StuartE
    Media
    Fairmount Alpine
    Hello ! Som more Pictures of my Fairmount Alpine , A little bit forward on the deck propshaft and rudder is mounted the towing winch is mounted and working more pictures is comming // Have a nice weekend all boat builders ๐Ÿ‘
    17 days ago by jugge
    Blog
    The motor cover.
    I want to keep the motor cover as compact and in proportion as much as possible so I drew up a design to visualise it and get some practical working dimensions, it also needs to enclose the
    prop shaft
    and coupling, and the MT60 connection for the motor so there will not be very much free air space inside. Because of this the motor cover will need some ventilation as the brushless outrunner motor canโ€™t be water cooled and I donโ€™t want to fit a fan, so the side panels of the box will need some gauze covered slots so that any heat generated can escape, assisted (perhaps) by the rotation of the motors outer โ€˜rotorโ€™ creating some air movement. I donโ€™t intend to run this boat very fast so Iโ€™m hoping that the motor will not get too hot anyway๐Ÿคž. I transferred the dimensions of the side panels from my drawings to some 1.5mm obeche panels and cut the side pieces to size and cut out the ventilation slots, some framing pieces and cross braces were fitted internally and the whole assembly glued and clamped together. Additional framing was added to support the part that covers the shaft and coupling and obeche panels applied to these. Some finishing details were applied around the base and the top to improve the appearance. The internal framing will later incorporate some small cylindrical neodymium magnets that will hold the motor enclosure down on the deck, Iโ€™ll fit these later when the deck floor has been fitted. The mesh is some of the stainless steel mesh that I had used in the water pickup tube on my RAF Crash Rescue Tender hoses, and this was cut to size and epoxied in place. The completed enclosure was finished with the same Teak stain as the rest of the boat. Next up will be an enclosure at the rear to conceal the control electronics.
    19 days ago by robbob
    Blog
    Emily P III
    This is another scratch build fishing boat. The hull is a models by design Cygnus GM33. 16th scale. This one will be a pure trawler. I am going for an aft wheelhouse this time! The
    prop shaft
    and rudder have been purchased but all other running gear will be shared with Emily P III.
    1 year ago by GrahamP74
    Blog
    Rescue Vessel - Springer Tug
    Hello all, Even though I am in the middle of several projects, including refitting two of my boats, I can't resist starting a new one. I am sure that I am not the only one with this affliction, I get bored quickly and jump from project to project. To keep them moving, I mostly work simultaneously. So here goes, my first ever Build Blog, bear with me.... Picked the Springer Tug as it is very simple and it will just be used ss a backup recovery vessel. I intend to build it a zero cost from my parts box and scrap wood pile. I put together my extra props, driveshaft, gearbox, motor, esc and RX. May have to buy a SLA Battery to get descent run time. Started last evening by making a template based on the plan in photo, credit goes to hull designer, see photo. Then I determined my motor location and Drive Line Angle so I could design the stuffing tube. Constructed that the same night using a 3/16" SS steel drive shaft. Bronze bushings from local hardware store and brass tubing from my supplies. See photos... Had the 500dc motor, Master Airscrew Gearbox, drive shaft, coupler and 2" brass prop. More to come..... Joe
    3 months ago by Joe727
    Forum
    PROPELLERS
    looking for a 30mm prop but with 4ba thread anybody help or can i fit a 4mm thread as the 4ba uses a 3.60 rod or can i fit a 4mm prop and shaft ๐Ÿ˜Š
    2 months ago by jacko
    Blog
    Fairey Hunsman renovation part 6
    Hi, Have added two brushless motors
    prop shaft
    s etc, twin rudders as per original boat and also a cabin roof. Did a test run (sorry no pics) but she was great, predictable and stable in rough conditions. I have started on the inner decking, this plugs in the hull, still a lot to do.
    2 months ago by CB90
    Media
    Moorcock
    I bought the Moorcock from a fellow boater and decided to rebuild her as the Moorcock. The hull was stripped bare and the prop-shaft tube removed and completely remade with a new prop. The hull was then repainted and the life boat and davits added The superstructure was cleaned up and remade with a Robbe spring loaded grappling iron added to the rear deck.She is powered by a 24v scooted motor salvaged from a garbage bin and has 4 x 12v 7amh SLA's to provide power. She is a good strong vesel to sail and is often used as a recovery tug.
    2 months ago by GeoffA
    Blog
    Vintage Model Works 46'' RAF Crash Tender
    Here's the history bit so pay attention... Many years ago as a boy in the fifth year of my north London secondary school, circa 1971, our woodwork class was given the option to make something of our own choice. Having mastered the majority of joints, wood turning, finishing techniques and the making of table lamps, stools and bookshelves etc. this seemed a good idea, so myself and a fellow classmate and model making chum asked if we could construct a model boat. The teacher, on hearing that it was to be from a kit and not from scratch was a little surprised but agreed. So my friend and I jointly invested about 20 quid in an Aerokits 34.5 inch RAF Crash Tender from Blunts' model shop in Mill Hill (long since gone like many others) and we set about construction during lesson time and sometimes at break times. I recall we used "Cascamite" to glue it all together on the advice of the woodwork teacher because neither 'Scotch' glue nor PVA was suited to marine construction. Good progress was made over the course of our last year at school but it was never fully completed, only requiring painting, running gear and detailing. My friend decided that he needed to withdraw from the project as he was enrolling in a college away from home to study for a career in the merchant navy and I agreed to buy out his share and continue with the project. And so it was that I carried on with the painting and installing the running gear which consisted of a 1.5 cc marine diesel engine, water pickup,
    prop shaft
    and rudder and a MacGregor radio system with a stick for steering and a single button for speed control. The engine and radio came from Michael's Models in Finchley (also long gone) for ยฃ20 as my elder brother, who had started a Saturday job there, was able to get a staff discount for me. The diesel engine was noisy and smelly and a pig to start with a leather thong around the flywheel and I decided to abandon this means of propulsion (I foolishly ran it for slightly too long 'dry' and melted the soldering around the brass water jacket!). By now I had graduated from my part time job in Woolies to an engineering apprentice with Post Office Telephones and my new income of 20 quid per week could support my modelling and electronics hobbies after my contribution to the household for my keep. So off to the model shop to buy a Taycol Supermarine electric motor, two 12v volt lead acid batteries and a suitable charger. The diesel came out and was sold on Exchange & Mart and the mount and coupling re-made to accommodate the new Taycol motor. What an improvement that was! I can't remember now what speed controller or servo I used but whatever it was did the job, and it went like the clappers on Friary Park boating lake (also long since gone) even though the radio control system was a bit crude with the non-proportional steering and 'blip' throttle control. The boating took a back seat when I acquired my driving licence and my first car (a rusty old Cortina Mk 1) and I also got involved in sound recording for radio. I decided to sell the boat and bits for ยฃ60 through Exchange & Mart and bought an Akai 4000DS tape recorder and a 'Chilton' audio mixer, built a home studio and along with a good mate of mine started making radio commercials for the new commercial radio stations including London's Capital Radio. We even won a 'Campaign' advertising award for one of our efforts! And so after several years as a 'phone engineer I moved into professional recording for A/V and broadcast and then into TV production. Fast forward to today. Semi-retired with grand kids and with more free time on my hands I still had an interest in model making so in Jan 2016 went to the Model Engineer exhibition at nearby 'Ally Pally'. It was there that I saw an RAF crash tender just like the one I built all those years ago and got into conversation with the chap on the stand. This re-ignited my model making interests and I researched the hobby and that model in particular.
    2 years ago by robbob
    Response
    Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
    Thatโ€™s great, thanks for the link. I will go on there now and have a read. My Father will be looking to add a decent motor to his Crash tender from Slec. We purchased it for him for Christmas. Good luck with the rest of the build. Simon
    2 months ago by Sifi70
    Response
    Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
    Thanks for your reply. I am more of a speed freak. I love the Vosper /MTB's style hulls as you can really push them to there limits, as I can also with the deep V huntsman style hulls. My Proboat Miss Geico catamaran I can run flat out even on turns. But am unsure about fitting an out runner, I have scaled down the Crash Tender to 28" and have just put in a small outrunner but very apprehensive of running her. This is because i'm unsure of overheating and catching fire. Silly rally as she is a fireboat. But as you have one in your Crash Tender with no problems, then I will finish her off and give her a run. Thanks for your help. I am watching this build as eagerly as I did your wonderful Crash Tender. I cannot wait to see the en result and some video of her on water. I'm sad I wasn't able to get along to the show this weekend.
    2 months ago by BOATSHED
    Response
    Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
    That's a really good question that I really can't answer right now as I've yet to run the boat !. The motor enclosure does have quite large ventilation panels on either side which are covered in a mesh and I'm hoping that the motor will be able to 'breathe' as a result. The brushless in my Fire Boat doesn't even get warm after a long hard run and that's enclosed in the hull but has admittedly got a lot more free air around it in the motor compartment. This is not a racing boat remember, so I'll not be using the motor to it's full ability, scale speed is all I really want and expect. I'll report back when it's had some sea trials ๐Ÿ˜ Robbob.
    2 months ago by robbob
    Response
    Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
    How does an outrunner fare with heat when closed in? The one you are using is goint to be even more closed in as it has a box built round it. I have been reluctant with an outrunner in a hull for this reason. I have a Miss Geico with an inrunner which is fine as it has a water jacket.
    2 months ago by BOATSHED
    Response
    Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
    Hi SiFi70. Here's the motor I'm using: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-aerodrive-sk3-3548-840kv-brushless-outrunner-motor.html?wrh_pdp=1&___store=en_us I'm pleased you're enjoying my build blog. Robbob.
    2 months ago by robbob
    Response
    Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
    Hi, Can I ask what motor you are fitting in there. it looks s nice job. Iโ€™d like to read up on it if possible. Your doing a fantastic job of it and I look forward to reading the updates on here. Cheers. Simon.
    2 months ago by Sifi70
    Response
    Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
    I have I think at least a dozen new and refurbs if not more, in my model boat shed that are in need of work. I am just getting over a serious health problem and operation so I do not know when I will get started. I still have my Classic Rover in bits that I haven't been able to finish because I am still not able to do the work yet. But I will get there eventually. But thanks again for your help.๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘
    2 months ago by BOATSHED
    Response
    Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
    Excellent news ๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ‘ No excuses now......get started on building that VMW Crash Tender. And don't forget to start a build blog too ๐Ÿ˜œ
    2 months ago by robbob
    Response
    Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
    Hi robbob and mturpin013, I emailed Mike Cummings and have just received a reply. He said how sorry he was to hear there were these parts missing, and if I send my address he would get them sent to me. Thank you both for your advice. I didn't think that after having the kit for so long I would not have got anywhere by contacting him. I have just sent him my details. Thanks again for your help.
    2 months ago by BOATSHED
    Response
    Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
    I agree with Rob, Mike Cummings is such a nice guy he has been so supportive with my build sending me copies of drawings I may need without even asking, he even sent me a Christmas card. Keep up the good work Rob
    2 months ago by mturpin013
    Response
    Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
    As far as I can remember it was from them at the show. I think they were on one of the club stands with a few boats showing the wording on the side of model boats Families Need Fathers. I will try emailing the VMW website tomorrow. Thanks for you input.
    2 months ago by BOATSHED
    Response
    Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
    Like your build, coming along nicely. I like your alignment method, always had some trouble with this. On my current build I used a short piece of brass tubing, same length as the coupler. it was 3/16" ID and fit tightly over the two 3/16" OD shafts. Worked well for alignment. Keep up the good work. Joe
    2 months ago by Joe727
    Response
    Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
    Did you buy the VMW crash tender directly from VMW or from a dealer at the W&W show ? Either way, I'm reasonably sure that if you contact Mike at VMW he'll sort you out with the missing bits. There's no reason to be dissappointed then, and the quality of the kit exceeded all my expectations and I bought my kit secondhand from an eBay seller but VMW gave me full after sales support just as they would have done if I'd bought it from them directly. If you don't ask...you don't get. Oh...and if your'e wondering, I have no commercial interest in VMW, they are just really nice guys ๐Ÿ‘ Rob.
    2 months ago by robbob
    Response
    Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
    I have looked at the bag of white metal fittings and I do not even have the mast it shows. Trouble is I bought it so long ago now at the show, didn't get a receipt when I paid for it so I cannot exactly do anything now. Too long ago.
    2 months ago by BOATSHED
    Response
    Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
    I have just visited their site again and they do not show much to do with the boats they have for sale. All I see is the 46" RAF Crash Tender and the Police Launch that just has a picture and no other information. They show no prices, I was also under the impression that they had several models in their list for sale. I do have the 46" Crash Tender I purchased at Wings'n'Wheels about three years ago. I din't find their site that informative other than for the Crash Tender. My kit doesn't even have the windows and decals that is says and shows in the descriptions. I'm very disappointed really. I will get round to building it one day though. As I will the 34" I bout back in 1994 from Aerokits.
    2 months ago by BOATSHED
    Response
    Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
    Hi Dave. The boat won't be finished in time for the show but it will be there anyway. The kit is made by Vintage Model Works not VMB See here: http://www.vintagemodelworks.co.uk/?page_id=18 Go right to the bottom of the page. They've not got around to doing a full description yet....I expect soon though. Give Mike Cummings a call for more details. Rob.
    2 months ago by robbob
    Response
    Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
    It's coming along nicely Robbob. Hope you get it finished in time for the model engineer exhibition. I still can't find it on the VMB website. Best wishes, Dave W ๐Ÿ˜Š
    2 months ago by rolfman2000
    Blog
    Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
    The prop-shaft, coupling and motor mount that I ordered from ModelBoatBits has arrived so it seems a good a good time to make up a supporting wedge for the mount to fix to. I do have a rigid brass motor alignment aid that I used when building the Crash Tender but do you think I can find it in the workshop?....nope! ๐Ÿ˜ก I expect it will turn up when I need it least! ๐Ÿคž Not wanting to waste time I used a length of heat shrink tubing over the motor coupling to make it as rigid as possible, a trick I had seen done elsewhere, and this enabled me to position the motor on its mount in the desired position and measure the angle that the mounting wedge needs to be made to. I used an offcut of beech that I had in the workshop which I cut to size and then shaped it on the rotary sander that I bought in Lidl, fantastic piece of kit !!. The wedge was then drilled to take the nylon motor mount and also the fixing screws that pass through the beech block, through the balsa base of the box and into the ply reinforcing plate that I put in during early construction of the hull. After cleaning up the hole through the keel the prop-shaft was keyed with some abrasive, smeared with some epoxy and then pushed through to mate with the motor coupling. I used the excess epoxy resin around the shaft inside the hull and used some packing tape to stop it running out when I inverted the hull to seal the lower end. A quick spin on the motor confirmed that the alignment was spot-on and the hull set aside while the epoxy set. The next step will be to plank the deck.
    2 months ago by robbob
    Response
    HMS BRAVE BORDERER
    Hi A few pics of my modify setup, no pics before hand. Moving weight fore or adding ballast works better than wedges. Only tested the boat by myself and I gave it a real workout. Motor 3639-1100kv, 60A ESC, 5800mah Lipo and 37mm 3blade prop. A 40mm 2blade works better and uses a bit less power. Rudder blade size 30mm across the top, 22mm across the bottom, 45 deep and the shaft 10mm from the leading edge. Sharpen the leading edge and the trialing edge flat. This catches are air in the water and send it to the surface. Canabus
    2 months ago by canabus
    Forum
    Propshaft Lubrication
    You can still get greases that are applied in liquid form but they now tend to be in spray form. I personally do not use silicon oil or grease, it is fine until you need to repaint your boat, it forms a film that is almost impossible to remove, even cellulose thinners has no effect and any paint applied fish eyes and separates, there are dedicated removers but we tried one on a contaminated bike frame which had been blasted, with poor results we had to treat it several times and had to reblast it, we discovered silicone grease had been used in the bottom bracket. Keep silicone away from any surface you may need to paint.
    2 months ago by TheBlacksmith
    Forum
    Propshaft Lubrication
    Been reading some old threads with plenty of reference to lubrication but only one mention of what to lubricate with (mix of engine oil and graphite powder). I have just fitted a replacement propshaft (M4) to my Huntsman 31 and fitted it with an oiler tube. So question is what to oil/grease it with? Steve
    3 months ago by steve-d
    Forum
    Propshaft Lubrication
    I used to use Liqui-Grease which was a clear liquid which solidified quickly leaving a grease filled whatever.I think it was silicone grease in a solvent which evaporated. No longer available as far as i can see but silicone grease diluted with meths might work. Great for chains and bearings on a bike so well enough for a little
    prop shaft
    . Very low drag too Seems to soften with movement.๐Ÿ‘
    2 months ago by onetenor
    Forum
    Propshaft Lubrication
    Hi I am using a mix of Teflon bike grease and a teflon based oil Teflon is non hygroscopic unlike some car type greases and have a low friction level hence low wear. Lithium grease has the same properties and is excellent, all of the suggestions are fine and it comes down to personal choice at the end of the day Teflon grease and oil are available in this country through Wilko's and halfords (own brand. half the price and just as good) Out of interest I make my bushes from PET plastic, acetal is similar, plastic can be lubricated with water as well as grease and is often used in full size propshafts the Queen Mary carrier for example. happy 2019 to everyone.๐Ÿ˜Š
    3 months ago by TheBlacksmith
    Forum
    Propshaft Lubrication
    I also use the ProBoats Marine Greaser!๐Ÿ‘ It works well for me!๐Ÿ˜Š And the grease stays where you put it!๐Ÿ˜‰ I've had no problems with it so far....๐Ÿ˜
    3 months ago by figtree7nts
    Forum
    Propshaft Lubrication
    I use White Lithium Grease in my stuffing tubes and on both plastic and metal gears. I build my own stuffing tubes for my 3/16" shafts using bronze bushings from the local hardware store. They insert into about a 3/8" brass tube thereby giving a reservoir for the grease. Does not seem to breakdown at all, has a nice viscosity, does not damage plastics and I have read will tolerate high heat. Local auto parts store sell it for about $6 in a tube that lasts me for years. Just my experience..... Joe
    3 months ago by Joe727
    Forum
    Propshaft Lubrication
    Hi All I use silicon tap grease as it's waterproof and add a bit more after each outing. Strip down, check for wear once a year and regrease. Started using Teflon bearings for the lower bearing which are holding up to the brushless motors. Canabus
    3 months ago by canabus
    Forum
    Propshaft Lubrication
    Greetings from Australia and Happy New Year. Hi Steve I have always lubricated my shafts with a 50/50 mixture of car bearing grease and sump oil Thinned to a consistency to be Forced into the tube via a syringe. This seems primitive but I have never had a problem. Top up when you think it needs it. Some would shudder at this but works for me. Regards Sid
    3 months ago by sidley70
    Forum
    Propshaft Lubrication
    Fill it up with Castrol or equivellent grease and once a year repack it....got boats with grease from over 5 yrs ago and they still as smooth as ever and dont leak water at all.......went through them over xmas for 1st time in years NOT a single mark of wear and that includes a couple of fast boats as well....Had a look at a boat that was last on the water 7yrs ago still with the original grease in it and still was as fresh as the day I put it in.......if your boat is using Oil from an oiler then the shaft will be furbarred and staining on the underneath....really no need for oilers as long as you have put enough grease in it...OIL will wash the grease away
    3 months ago by Dave J
    Forum
    Propshaft Lubrication
    I have always used wheel bearing grease. I have a brass tube fitted to the
    prop shaft
    which is the same diameter as a grease nipple so slides into the grease gun Yours Brian
    3 months ago by scout13
    Forum
    Propshaft Lubrication
    I have changed over to the ProBoat Marine Grease.It comes with an injector that screws onto the tube.Very happy with the product.Just one idea.
    3 months ago by Donnieboy
    Forum
    Artesania Latina
    i had a damaged thread on my new artesania tug boat kit propshaft ? i have been sending an email every week since august .They agreed to replace the part but have never posted the part to me ? i have purchased another shaft but will continue to email artesania for(ocd) the hell of it ! yes i need to get a life ?
    3 months ago by keithtindley
    Forum
    Kingfisher by Norstar upgrades
    The original design placed the motor near the windscreen; using direct drive. The new design moves the C/G; provides a shorter
    prop shaft
    ; and a lighter boat.
    3 months ago by Ron
    Media
    Fairmount Alpine
    A Little bit forward , propshaft and rudders ar mounted and some things on the superstruktion , im going to start with the running lights tonight Have a nice day everybody // Jรถrgen
    3 months ago by jugge
    Response
    Hum, Now What!
    Hi Joe, Thanks for the idea! I'm going to take the boat apart! I have to take her ballast out! Take her batteries out! I think she's leaking from where the
    prop shaft
    . comes out of the Boss! So, I'm going to make a flange. Which will be the same size as the Boss. And will cover the Boss! Hopefully this will fix the leak problem! Regards, Ed
    3 months ago by figtree7nts
    Blog
    1-35 Scale Schenllboot By TeeJay
    Hi all for the second blog report on the schnellboot I am going to go over the rudder a propeller shaft assembly in more detail. The first stage was to make the rudders which were made of brass ,and having taken note of what has been said about the increase in size needed for the kit by other members I have increased the size of the rudders by 50% so that they have more effect and hopefully the boat will be more agile .I fitted 3mm treaded rod on to the rudder and in a 4mm flanged tube to reinforce the brass rod. The second stage was to make and fit 5mm flanged tube in the location for the rudders in the boat, these were made to be above the water line and will be sealed in place to reduce the possibility of leaks. These were fitted to a rudder platform inside the boat which was fitted to the kit moulding for the rubbing strip that runs the length on the boat and secured by making resin blocks which were fitted with computer extension nuts. which were then superglue in place to secure the rudder platform. The rudders were then fitted in place and held in position with the tiller collars which were made from 8mm rod and fitted the tiller arms and locked in place with 3mm computer screws and ni-lock nuts, a connecting plate was then fitted to connect the three tillers together, I also fitted rubberised washers to seal the rudder tubes. The third stage was to make the propeller supports. The centre support was a direct copy of the kit part made of brass and fitted to the kit with a plate and screws (this plate and the rudder plate were made from galvanised steel) and will sealed with resin after the I test the boat for leaks. The port and starboard supports were made by taking the kit parts and cutting them in have along the joint line or mould seam this gave me a template ,which I used to make cross-section segments but I did alter the template by increasing the boss diameter to 10mm and extending the support legs so that the finished support could be fitted through the hull (the picture of these show the mk1 version where I forgot to allow for the 4mm
    prop shaft
    which has a 6mm tube) any way the boss of these segments were drilled out with a 7mm drill and a length of 7mm brass tube fitted through the boss to assemble the segments, all of which were coated in soldering flux at this stage of the assembly which were riveted at both ends to hold it all together during soldering, after soldering the supports were then filed to the size and shape to resemble the kit parts as close as possible and fitted to the hull using a superglue and talcum powder mix and then I cast resin around the extensions to secure the prop supports in place. The fourth stage is the propeller shaft housing for the centre propeller housing I place a brass rod in a plastic straw and place in position in hull and using resin I sealed the hull with the rod in place this gave me a pilot hole for the centre
    prop shaft
    after I removed the brass rod. For the port and starboard shafts I used the kit parts which had hole place when assembled, this when I reinforced the housings ,the centre housing I glue 2mm of plasticard on each side and for the port and starboard I made a brass tube shroud which covered the housings which left gaps between the kit part and the brass which was filled by casting resin in the gap this increased the diameter to 10 mm so that there were little chance of breaking throw with the drill and finished these off by fill-in the outside with body filler and sanded to shape and finish . I then drilled through the pilot hole in the housings using very long extended drills and a wheel brace ( if I had use a power drill the heat would have melted the plastic of the kit and may have caused problems) I drill the shaft housings out 6mm them filed them out with 6mm file so that I could insert a length of 6mm brass tube. After all this was done I fitted a flanged bush made from 7mm tube and 2mm brass plate turned to 11mm to the ends or the propeller shaft housings. And now it is time I must ask for some help could anyone advise me on the length of propeller shafts, I know I can use a 300mm shaft for the centre shaft, but port and starboard will have to be longer. and I also need advice on selecting the motors, I want to use 4mm
    prop shaft
    with 35mm propellers. Any opinions welcome.
    5 months ago by teejay
    Blog
    mini update
    I now have the larger
    prop shaft
    installed. Waiting for the glue to set so I can align and mount the motor. I need to fit a water pickup for cooling the motor and ESC. Are there any rules/tips on where it should be positioned? My first though was anywhere facing forwards as it will only really need cooling when running at speed. Any thoughts. Next is the paint. I'm trying to match the colours which were a marine 'Toplac' paint but at ยฃ25 for the smallest can x 3 colours I need a different route. Paint shops failed to find a match so am going to an automotive paint supplier who assure me they can match anything. So now to the question...what type of paint do I go for, acrylic, cellulose, water based etc.? Steve
    3 months ago by steve-d
    Blog
    Day Two Springer
    Springer build log for website Hello all, Even though I am in the middle of several projects, including refitting two of my boats, I can't resist starting a new one. I am sure that I am not the only one with this affliction, I get bored quickly and jump from project to project. To keep them moving, I mostly work simultaneously. So here goes, my first ever Build Blog, bear with me.... Picked the Springer Tug as it is very simple and it will just be used ss a backup recovery vessel. I intend to build it a zero cost from my parts box and scrap wood pile. I put together my extra props, driveshaft, gearbox, motor, esc and RX. May have to buy a SLA Battery to get descent run time. Started last evening by making a template based on the plan in photo, credit goes to hull designer, see photo. Then I determined my motor location and Drive Line Angle so I could design the stuffing tube. Constructed that the same night using a 3/16" SS steel drive shaft. Bronze bushings from local hardware store and brass tubing from my supplies. See photos... Had the 500dc motor, Master Airscrew Gearbox, drive shaft, coupler and 2" brass prop. More to come..... Joe Day 2 Hello, Next I traced the hull sides on to 12mm/1/2" Baltic birch plywood from Woodcraft store. I nailed two pieces together prior to cutting so as to match. I don't have a scroll saw so I built a table mount for a jigsaw that attaches to my homemade drill press table. Cut them together, but the jigsaw does not cut well in terms of verticality. So I clamped them in a vise and hand sanded till they matched and were at 90 degrees. I showed my simple rig for the sabre saw / jigsaw table. if you need detail, just ask. I also showed my custom made 4 1/2 table that I made because I could not find a scaled down table saw for model making. (Could not afford, I am retired and have a low budget. Glued up the sides and ends tonight with Titebond 3, temporary nails to help hold it into place. Note: As to any joints whether it be electronic, woodworking, etc., a good practice is to use this both adhesive and mechanical fastener. I swear by these as one or the other will eventually fail This is as simple as using a screw, nail or rod, and the appropriate adhesive. Model building, as most will say is cheaper than therapy. Joe
    3 months ago by Joe727


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