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futaba radio and receivers
I have been using Futaba 2.4 for years, be aware there are 2 systems, FHSS and FASST, they are not compatible, except with some of the high end transmitters which work with both systems.
As to other type compatible receivers, i have Corona and O
, a lot cheaper than Futaba, they do work, but, as Dodgy said, you might lose some
, look for the ones that are surface receivers, 'air' receivers depend on height for there
, also beware of park fly receivers, they are very limited
, park or indoor.
It all depends how many channels you need to use.
if you need more info give me a shout
2 months ago by jarvo
futaba radio and receivers
I also have been using O
FASST Futaba RECs since they first came out and have never had an issue with
( far as you can see). Also the Corona R6FA, R8FA and the FRSky TFR6 7ch have been faultless as well. I've been using a Futaba 6EX with all of these since 2010 with no problems. Also been using a few FHSS radios for ground use (boats) with no problems either. There don't seem to be many 3CH FASST receivers but a 4 or 6CH FASST should work ok.
A 6CH will work on 3,4,5,6,7,8CH RECs (you only run out of switches if you use a bigger one) Corona makes a R4FA but HK doesn't sell them now. plenty of Corona 6s and 8s around for about $ 25 US. I notice that the Futaba 3PK is discontinued so samc may want to look at a newer radio.
2 months ago by jbkiwi
Model Boat crew....
A model vehicle - car, boat or plane - looks a little odd if it seems to be operating with no driver. Aircraft have quite a selection of different scale 'head and shoulders' figures - road vehicles seem to be made to standard scales so that driver figures are readily available - but boats are often made to a wide variety of scales and then need scale figures which are not readily available, and can be very pricey when they are!
I was asked recently about figures on the boats I make, which are continuations of the Keil Kraft EeZeBilt line. These were originally 'pocket-money' starter kits for young children, so they were very cheap, and the fittings were not bought, but made from available household items like paper-clips. I have continued that tradition, so making an EeZebilt remains cheap and encourages manual dexterity rather than a large wallet!
Figures can be made cheaply by adding filler to a wire armature, but this does require a bit of carving skill. It is easier to start with a basic shape and alter it a bit, and the obvious place to start is with a model railway figure. Cheap Chinese copies of products like the Preiser
are available on Ebay for around 10p per figure - see the link below for example.
These figures are available in many scales from 1:200 up to about 1:24. The first point to make is that choosing a suitable scale to build your boat to will make it a lot easier to populate it with figures! I typically look to make boats at 1:24 or 1:48, two common scales for railways.
Now the only problem is that the typical figures for sale are not sailors or naval personnel. Instead they are usually civilians, railway staff or workmen. But that is easily solved by using a modelling knife. I have illustrated this below with a set of drawings for a 1:48 figure - see the PDF link below:
1 - a typical figure. Note the jacket and tie lines embossed on the body. I wanted to make an Indian Naval Officer, so my first step was to look up the colouring and shape of their uniform. I find that they wear white, with either a plain-front tunic or shirt and shorts.
2 - To make a plain-front, simply scrape away the clothes lines embossed on the figure's trunk. You may also need to cut any hanging parts of a jacket away, or fill a hole with some modelling putty.
3 - To adjust arms, slice them off and then re-attach with Plastic Weld. The plastic will melt and conform to the new shape.
3 - To make shorts, just trim the long trousers in a bit at the shorts hem, then carve the lower leg to show the bulge of a calf.
4 - An officers cap is easy to make. Stamp out two tiny paper disks using a sharpened brass tube, and cut one disk in half. Cut a slot across the figure's forehead, and superglue the half-disk in there to be the cap peak. The full disk goes on top of the figures head, and the excess glue is drawn by surface tension to make a brim. The glue will soak through the paper and make it hard. See the PDF below for details...
6 months ago by DodgyGeezer
Ace Nautical Commander
"27Mhz / 40Mhz systems are sought after by submariners..."
You betcha DG 👍
The higher the frequency the less it penetrates water. At 2.4Gigs it just bounces off.
Doesn't like getting it's feet wet 😁 I still use my old Graupner MC-10 40Meg set for my U25.
Never actually needed a twin-stick on one mount but I seem to remember there is (or was?) also a mod kit for the MC
Real subs use VLF KHz frequencies around 8-10 for underwater COMMS reception (TX antenna on land km's long!), or they send up an antenna buoy to use higher bands. Receive only of course, don't want to stick a finger up and say 'Here I am, come and sink me!'
That was Dönitz's big mistake in the Battle of the Atlantic!
Cheers, Doug 😎
PS Good link👍 Krick is one of my favourite suppliers here.
4 months ago by RNinMunich
(Naval Ship) Sir Kay (T241)
This is my Sir Kay (T241) - Round Table Class Minesweeper. it is from the Caldercraft
and I was fortunate to recently acquire it - I would have much preferred to have built it but couldn't miss the opportunity of it being given to me by an old retiring modeller. it just needed new RC throughout, a good clean, a tidy up and some fresh paint here and there plus a bit of rigging renewal. Not tried it in the water yet but will do tomorrow at our Club meet. (Motor: MFA Geared 2.5:1) (ESC: Mtroniks) (5/10)