Response

rudder servo Installation

I have a sat in my garage built for me by Dad in the 70s then moved onto Cars and faster things, originally had a futaba brick combo (2 servo and a receiver in a block) and a homemade speed controller. All had gone but the motor was intact and ran when connected to my battery drill battery. Off to the local model shop , new 2.4g radio ,gell battery 6v , speed controller (things have come a long way since resistance wire in the 70s)plus new charger, £90 lighter and 40 years later its on the pond again driven by my 5 yr old son .Faster than I recall but running nose down on full speed . Need to trim it nose up. it needs a repaint and I have slight delaminating of the skins where they meet the transom. Yours looks fantastic all credit to you and ill post picks when mine looks half as good

8 years ago by greg_k

Response

On the water

I built a several years ago and also overcame the rudder servo matter by mounting the servo on its side. With a bit of work I managed to conceal it beneath the floor of the aft cockpit. I used some lead weight to ballast the boat after testing it in the bath and kept it slightly stern heavy which in turn helped it to raise the bow when on full power. Motor was a 550 running on 7.2 volt nicad and performance was very pleasing.. I love the images of your and it shows what can be done with hard work and dedication. Its also really great to see the smaller Aerokits models being restored as most restos seem to focus on the larger boats in the range. Regards Boaty 😊

9 years ago by boaty

Forum

Aerokits - Rudder and Prop

HI I have now remembered there was a post on this site in 2010 on a renovation. I suggest you look at http://http://mdlbt.com/3664 as this build blog will answer many of your questions Cheers Dave

9 years ago by Dave M

Forum

Aerokits - Rudder and Prop

Hello again anybody out there got one of these with details on how/where to fit the rudder and prop shaft. I am curious to know how far from the stern transform the hole for the rudder should be drilled and how close the propellor should be to the rudder. Also, the prop shaft enters the hull at an angle so how was the motor mounted. Many thanks In advance Regards

9 years ago by impartit

Forum

Aerokits - Rudder and Prop

HI Impartit The Aerokits range were around in my youth and were very fine kits in their day and still rightly attract many to their clean lines and sailing qualities. We now have much smaller and more efficient motors and batteries than were available when the kits were issued. IC engines were very popular and required good access to allow for starting. As a result the mounting was much higher than is required today and as a result the prop shaft angle was quite steep. With a modern motor you can alter the shaft so that the angle is less severe and aligns with the motor on its mount inside the boat. The other consideration is the size of the prop as the shaft has to exit in a position that allows for clearance with the hull. You do need to fit a rudder so make sure you leave sufficient space behind the prop. You may need to angle the motor slightly and its position will need to be adjusted to suit the length of the prop shaft. The motor mounting can be attached to the hull or a wooden plate in the hull. if space is tight and screws are too long you may have to glue the mount in place. Once you have the prop shaft in place and the prop attached you can position the rudder vertically in line with the prop, there is usually a small 5-10 mm gap between the rudder and prop. Make sure you have room to attach an arm on the rudder shaft for the rudder servo. A picture of the model would help if more specific advice is required. Hope this helps Cheers Dave

9 years ago by Dave M

Forum

Waterproofing my wooden hull

HI Mate. Notice you are in Bexhill so calling in to Easycomposites, they are in Stoke on Trent, is out of the question, no worries they have a superb mailorder site, it also has how to vidios that are good to watch. As your model is the its small enough to use the stocking, please ask first, dont want your good lady ripping me appart, LOL. Tights are just as good, use to layers, one on then let it dry etc. www.easycomposites.co.uk I bought the AT30 fast hardener withEL2 Laminating resin, this gives about 30 mins working time. They also do brushes, thinners, mixing pots, glass cloth in different weights. I use the lightest .7oz, everything you need is on the web site. Best if you weigh the resin and hardener, it is mesured as a ratio, 100 - 30. I bought two sets of digital scales, guess why!!!!! It is a messy job but not a lot of smell, Poundshop for plastic gloves. Mark

9 years ago by jarvo

Forum

Waterproofing my wooden hull

Good morning Mark and thanks for your quick reponse. The boat is an "Aerokits" kit (c 1950). I like the idea of using a stocking but can you recommend a supplier for the resin and glass cloth. Just one coat on the hull's exterior?

9 years ago by impartit

Forum

HI Danny265, Saw your post and as I used to work on the broads I looked the up and it was owned by A.G. Ward Of Norwich Thorpe. The length was 32 ft and 9ft on the beam. Hope this info is not to late for you. You can check if it is the boat you are looking for from (Pic.) Regards Glyn

9 years ago by restin

Forum

hI all can anyone tell me how I can find the approx scale of the . the problem Is I can,t find the size of the real boat as sailed on the norfolk broads. thank you danny

10 years ago by danny265

Forum

fire boat Identification

I have several original Aerokits models and all follow the same design principle developed by Les Rowell in the late 1950s and 1960s. IC engined boats were very popular at the time and electric motors were very chunky and heavy and required large batteries for power. The construction had of necessity to be robust to carry the weight and also strong enough to withstand the power and vibration from the IC engine. Weight was not a particular concern so the hulls were made to last. As Shaun has stated the parts were all supplied pre-cut and the plan and building guides were aids to help the average modeller. Modern Laser cutting techniques have enabled the designs to be re-engineered to reproduce the original outlines but using more current construction techniques now possible. The result is a model that weighs less without losing the original concept. There will always be those who prefer to have an original but the current copies will help to introduce present modellers to this classic range of wooden boats. Dave Wiggins has an article in Februarys MMI (Issue335) about the and shows pictures of an actual un-built kit plus an exploded view of the plan.

9 years ago by Dave M

Forum

Suitable Power Source

I am seeking your advice on a suitable motor for my Aerokits wooden boat (quite old). It Is 24.5 Ins long has a beam of 8.25 Ins and a freeboard of 2.5 Ins. It weighs just over two pounds and has a propellor shaft (in a 8" brass tube) ofsome 8.5". I hope this provides sufficient Information for you to advise on a suitable electric motor, battery, gearing, mounting and coupling. Many thanks

10 years ago by impartit

Forum

Suitable Power Source

HI Neil You are right that dates back to the 50's, over the years they must have made thousands, reproduction kits are now in production. Urgent warning, when you fit the prop shaft, you need the motor and mounting so that they are in line, both vertical and horizontal. The banana oil you have mentioned is still available from specialist suppliers, the best thing to use is thin epoxy resin, available on line or in shops, if its not runny enough put a few drops of meths in it as a thinner. The two control systems I have no clue, not even seen one, could I suggest using more conventional systems??? Mark

10 years ago by jarvo

Forum

Suitable Power Source

HI Impartit. First of all, welcome to the web site, there is a ton of knowledge around, just ask. Your is a medium sized model, do you want a cruising boat or one wit a good turn of speed????? A standard 540 or 400 motor will give you good running without need of a gearbox, 7.2 volt NmHI 4000 / 5000mah battery will give good endurance, the motor should come with a mount, flex coupling to suite, have a look on ebay if your not close to a model shop, or through Model boat mag, Marein modeller mag. Cornwall model boats. Are you thinking of Radio Control? as most sailing waters are shared with other users. Hope this helps to start, probably more questions, give us a shout!!!! Regards Mark

10 years ago by jarvo

Response

rudder servo Installation

Hi I am very Impressed with your restoration of our beloved , would you consider sending Images via PM so I can use your boat in our advertising as it is a great example Many thanks from Sandra Lesro Models

10 years ago by sandra

Forum

Aerokits hull skins

HI Peter Totally agree, my concern was with the foam reacting with the dope Mark

10 years ago by jarvo

Forum

Aerokits hull skins

Hello, I'm new to the hobby, I chose the kit as my first project. Working through the Instruction sheet, the next task Is to fit the 1.5mm sheet ply hull skins, but I don't know where to start. The Instructions suggest soaking the ply In water for an hour to Improve Its flexibility, but the thing still has a mind of Its own! -- and If the ply Is wet, how do I glue It In place? Am I supposed to try and clamp It In place dry or somehow fix It with small panel pins? Any advice appreciated, I'm stumped! regards Ian

10 years ago by BoatingBob

Forum

Aerokits hull skins

Whoops only enter post once so no idea why two have appeared. (Now been corrected I see). Ian's right forgotten foam, but agree with him re exterior use and his talc tip. If foam has not been installed you may get away with doping interior, but let it dry before using expanding foam, possible with a coat of varnish to act as cushion between foam and dope.

10 years ago by Peter47

Forum

Aerokits hull skins

HI Ian Not sure what effect the dope would have on the expanding foam, it certainly eats polystyrene. if its still good, use it on the outside of the hull away from the foam, mix a little talc with it and it makes a superb sanding sealer over the wood grain. I would still use epoxy in the bow area as thats were you tend to hit things, pond side, other boats etc. Mark

10 years ago by jarvo

Forum

Aerokits hull skins

Ok, thanks both for the tip about the expanding foam, I'll do that. I was wondering about sealing the interior with resin as you suggest. From my aeromodelling days, I still have an unopened pint tin of cellulose dope. Assuming it hasn't all dried up when I open it, could that be used as an internal waterproof sealer? Ian

10 years ago by BoatingBob

Forum

Aerokits hull skins

As Ian says it does expand, to 2 to 3 times it size, so don't try to fill space totally, be warned use it sparingly and what ever you do, don't try to stop it swelling out of the space with your fingers as one of our maintenance guys did, even wire wool won't remove it, leave it 24 hours and cut of any excess 😉 . You can pick it up at Wilkinson, & sometimes Lidl or Aldi.

10 years ago by Peter47

Forum

Aerokits hull skins

Ian If you can still get at the bow area, fill it with polystyrene packing foam. if its to late, do you know a builder? if he has used some spray sealing foam and has a bit left in the can, drill holes in the bulkhead and squirt the foam in. it will expand so don't seal the bulkhead again, let it settle, possibly 24 hours. If you seal the inside of the bows with resin before putting the foam in, even better, this will double the sealing and give buoyancy as well. Mark

10 years ago by jarvo

Forum

Aerokits hull skins

Thanks for the suggestions. Well, a bit more progress to report. I used the T pins I already had, they easily pushed through the plywood skin, but I used a big pair of pliers to push them further in to hold. Most of them were badly bent, but held whilst the Titebond 3 dried. Once I'd trimmed the plywood skins to fit, bending them wasn't as much of a problem as I'd expected. Looking at the model now, I see that right at the front (the bow) , once I've fitted the top decking, there is going to be effectively a sealed compartment. So if it does leak slightly at the front, presumably that section fills with water and bad things happen??!! is it best to allow all parts to be easily drained, or try and seal it up as best as I can? Ian

10 years ago by BoatingBob

Forum

Aerokits hull skins

Thanks Mark, didn't know about the meths, could come in handy that tip 👍 Alan

10 years ago by AlanP

Forum

Aerokits hull skins

HI Alan The only problem with 5 min or 10 min epoxy is that it is brittle, compared with long set 1hour / 24 hour, the longer it takes to set the stronger the molecular bond. (what words for a saturday!!!!!) That said so long as the epoxy is not subject to vibration, motor mount etc its good to go. Just as an add-on, if you wand your epoxy to be runny, add a small amount of meths, it also slows the setting time, while the meths evaporates. Mark

10 years ago by jarvo

Forum

Aerokits hull skins

Pound shop, my favourite model shop 😁 😁 epoxy is really good, sets in 10 mins Alan

10 years ago by AlanP

Forum

Aerokits hull skins

You'll may see my Brother Dave, Yacht Secretary, there 3 times a week regularly. 😎

10 years ago by Peter47

Forum

Aerokits hull skins

HI Pete See you down at the lake sometime soon. Amsterdam is now in the water, next job is the referb of her sister ship Tenace Mark

10 years ago by jarvo

Forum

Aerokits hull skins

Didn't realise there was so many Ethrow boat club members on site, have had to curtail my visit this year due to family health issues, but keeping busy re-fitting and up dating my fleet of models, hope to hit those water again soon. See you there, Pete

10 years ago by Peter47

Forum

Aerokits hull skins

HI Ian This sounds like its a modern copy of the old kit, good, it means its got some decent ply in it. Pin pushers are used by the model railway boys for there track pins. if your model shop has them get the pusher and track pins, they are smaller than panel pins, but with a fairly large head, easy to remove when the glue is set, Peter47 has the right idea, pound shops have some epoxy in a syringe dispenser, they also have PVA and other useful tools etc. Mark

10 years ago by jarvo

Forum

Aerokits hull skins

A few ideas either use glue you have, or two part epoxy, or a good waterproof wood glue (used this method with a fair few models), but remember before placing it in the old h2o, seal joints and exterior well with a coat or three of varnish, possibly run some resin around inside of hull as well, but saying that I have a very old Vosper 72' MTB, 1/24 scratch built in balsa, tissue covered and doped, still going strong. On this I mainly left interior unsealed, just remove any moisture at end of session, if any then leave hatches off let it air dry, so far no rot or swelling. One more thing £ shops are a great source for good cheap adhesives, paints, crew (use your Imagination) and lubricants 😎

10 years ago by Peter47

Forum

Aerokits hull skins

Mark and Peter, Thanks very much for your suggestions. I bought the kit from a shop down in Poole, Dorset. Just came as a bag of lazer cut ply with some strips of balsa, a plan, plus some stapled together sheets of instructions. Maybe it was a poor choice for a first model, because I'm finding the instructions a bit tricky. it's probably just me being a bit thick. I'll have a go at trying to push some pins through a ply offcut. I have some of the 'T' shaped pins left from my aeromodelling days of many moons ago, but I suspect they won't be 'man enough' for the job. Not come across a pin-pusher before, but I can see how a tool to guide the pins would be a good thing. The shop recommended I glue the thing together with a product called Titebond 3, I've used it exclusively so far, but not sure its going to be suitable for the hull skins? On the side of the container it says -- not to be used below the waterline -- so don't know about that. regards Ian

10 years ago by BoatingBob

Forum

Aerokits hull skins

Mark could be right with his suggestion especially if it is the original kit, in my skinning of my model of HMS Princess Beatrix I went with pre-soaking method, then clamping to frames to dry over night, only them glueing now shaped sides, did same for its funnel which is a virtually "U" shape. Any way good luck with your model. yours Peter

10 years ago by Peter47

Forum

Aerokits hull skins

HI Ian Is this an original aerokits ? if so be careful that the ply doesn't split and delaminate. First get some fine panel pins or strong dress making pins, you will need a pin pusher, also some small spring clamps, (if your brave nick the pegs from the washing line) dry fit the panels, when happy steam one panel and glue and clamp / pin that panel into place, leave it to set, preferably over night, carefully remove the clamps and pins this should give you one complete side fitted, repeat for the other side, warning, don't leave one side till next week etc as it will cause the hull to warp, do both sides quickly. Practice before you commit to the fitting stage, have all the bits you need to hand. Regards Mark

10 years ago by jarvo

Forum

New to model boats

HI I am new to the world of model boats, I'm waiting for the delivery of a vintage kit. I would be grateful of any advice on which adhesive to use and general building tips etc. many thanks.

10 years ago by mikeb

Forum

Spray rails for a 34'' RAF crash tender

And the same to you Dave, 🙏 aged quite considerably since the last time I had my hands on an RC boat in the water so I'll let you know about that one later. Still at a bit of a standstill with all my builds due to the lack of usable workshop facilities, been banned from inside due to resin and sanding sealer fumes. 😭 Had a Metcalfe Mouldings The Scout kit from Santa but am still trying to decipher the instructions, building with styrene and fibreglass hulls is another new area for me 😰

10 years ago by Flack

Response

52' Coast Guard Lifeboat

R that. I have spent some time on the 44's, and 82's. There were only 4 52's, and I'm not sure if any are still around. I heard when Grays Harbor got the new 47's, they turned over the old 44's to a Ship which still maintains them.

11 years ago by CaptLarry

Forum

Fantastic Weather!

Boats on the water in Southport today. Fireboat (Aerokits Crash Tender) and Popeye! (Aerokits ). Was a beautiful day. The kids as usual enjoyed both boats, one singing the Popeye theme tunes and the other shouting Watch out! Fire! and squirting water 😀 Stephen

11 years ago by fireboat

Media

Vintage Model Boat Company electric powered model. This is a laser cut reproduction kit produced to a very high standerd. please take a look at a new club coming soon at http://froggyt996.wix.com/vintage-model-power-boat. also take a look at www.vintagemodelboats.com Thanks to John Lockett for the Video

12 years ago by froggyt996

Response

Aerokits (Olive)

HI Dave, the figures were purchased of eBay as a set. I have Bluto but as of yet have not decided what to do with him ❓

12 years ago by Mallory

Response

Aerokits (Olive)

What a little gem. Looks superb on the water. 😀 I hope you have Sweet Pea well mounted on the fore deck, but with Popeye as skipper what could go wrong 😉 No Spinach? Did you make the figures yourself? You'll have to do Bluto next in a suitable mean looking vessel 😊 Really brightened my day in spite of the wet weather (again!) Well done 😀

12 years ago by Dave M

Media

Aerokits (Olive)

Some photos of my Aerokits taken yesterday at Southport model boat lake. Fitted with an outrunner brushless motor.

12 years ago by Mallory

Response

Thanks and no restoration work yet, but may have to coat hull as some seepage at joints.Will hopefully be able to keep model integraty without too much trouble.

12 years ago by Colin H

Response

Lucky you and what a well preserved (restored?) and historic specimen.

12 years ago by Dave M

Media

Here are a few pics of my Scout which wwas originally built in 1958, but left in my parents loft when I left home in 1966, but thankfully still there when my Mum asked me to clear the attic for insulation installers last year. So far have cleaned it and fitted a MabuchI Brushed motor of unknown power, but appears to work well at 6Volts running a 2 blade plastic prop 30mm 'S' type. Havent got round to fitting radio gear yet, so have done tests as a free sailer, setting rudder on a slow arc and watching as I walk round pond.Will update as soon as next stage is complete.

12 years ago by Colin H

Forum

New Aerokits now available

PAUL We have already have the kit available please see our website at www.vintagemodelboats.com our next model is the 34 1/2 inch Aerokits Crash Tender

12 years ago by ipengineering

Forum

New Aerokits now available

Great news. 1958 I built a . 2009 I refurbished a from ebay purchase. The makes for a great small easily built kit, will you be launching these one day ? Regards, Paul.

12 years ago by Tall Paul

Forum

Fleet System Radio control.

Thanks Larry and Dave, Have had time to check out system now, and it all works as it should. The motor is a MABUCHI but what the rating is I've no idea, have added photos to help any interested viewers, if all goes well I will install it all in my . Havent had much time for my models lately as our car was involved in accident and written off, so spent a lot of time finding a replacement, then had to repair stormm damage to my caravan roof before the wet got in. But hopefully will be able to get on again now. Fair winds and smooth sailing Colin.

12 years ago by Colin H

Directory

(Pleasure Craft) Olive

Aerokits . Popeye captain with olive oil. (Motor: outrunner 1500kv) (5/10)

12 years ago by Mallory

Forum

What was yout first boat?

Westquay what area of the UK are you in and I may be able to tell you where you can sail your Ic boats. as for using the likes of single channel REP radio you would have to go where no one else sails 27mhz radio as you could not sail at the same time as any 27mhz users. I built my first sea commander with an ed racer in about 48 years ago it had single Chanel Hills receiver and Mac Gregor single valve tx with a ed escapement, it was not working more that it was, I then went right up market to a OS Pixie with a minI mac and a Kinematic in an electric , I also tried to run my Gannet with a 6 channel reed set , waist of a gannet but I did win a straight running comp twice.my first fire boat was about 47 years ago by the way , OS pixie ed escapement OS max 19 ran all summer long without a glitch even though it got wet twice. Peter

13 years ago by Peter HS93

Response

Aerokits Renovation

Thanks for all this precious info. I built my from a kit in 1970, as soon as I left school. It is the only wooden boat I have ever undertaken, and my building skills were minimal! So, here I am 40 years on, trying to refit the boat, with no idea what I should be doing for motor/gearbox/prop set ups. I'll keep watching, and learning, but, in the mean time would welcome any suggestions.

14 years ago by misterbee