All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.
Many thanks for your kind support
Join Us On Social Media!
🏝️ About This Website
☝️ Terms of Service
Model Boats Website
Model Boats Website
Boat Clubs & Lakes
Plans & Docs
40'' Seaplane Tender, new build
Just started a 40" model of a 41'6" seaplane tender. I have been wanting to do one for years and now that my 36" 100 series 64ft HSL is done I was getting itchy fingers. Started with drawings from the 1976 Model Boats mag (part of the series on ASRs they did back then) which show frame shapes and positions, and enlarged them to 40" (A-O paper after rearranging the images on the A4 primary enlargement used as printing 'pattern' to enable max size on A-O. )
I did the same with the HSL and with a bit of fiddling got all the frames to line up nicely to shape. You have to be a bit inventive building this way regarding framing material etc, but it's possible if you have previous building experience. I found with these particular drawings that the frames were not drawn with identical profiles (left and right sides) so I had to create 1 side and flip it for the opposite side. I also had to create an extra frame between 2+3 as there was no real support for the stringers without it.
The front top deck frame is cut from 3mm ply, as are the frames,-(ply is from packaging of a big Toyota Landcruiser axle recall which was done during my time at Toyota, which is 3 ply, very light, and perfect for this type of job, and not to mention, free!) I borrowed this frame method from the old 60s Vic Smeed MTB plan and it makes a good strong bow section to work with (used it on the HSL also.)
Ply longerons are run through from transom to F2 with hardwood stiffening between transom and F4. Chine, gunwale and mid stringers are 4mmx2mm Beech, bottom stringers are 3x3 beech with mid stringer doubled. I may have to put extra stringers in the sides but that will depend on how the planks lie in the flares. planking will be 1.5mm balsa as the flares are quite pronounced especially in the bow area, and you just can't get
to go round the compound curves.
Hull will be glassed and faired when finished and sealed with thin resin inside once everything is ready. Cabin is reasonably easy but takes a bit of working out and fiddling with due to lack of any plan, but it seems to be working out reasonably with the use of photos etc.
The model is going to be a representation of a tender which was imported privately in the 50s by a doctor in the Milford sounds area here in the South Island of NZ, to enable him to visit patients, due to there being water access only in many of the remote areas. I have modified the drawings to represent this boat, which included changing the mast and removing the rear oval port and replacing it with a small round port, (not sure why this was changed, maybe an interior modification made the large port unnecessary ?) The boat ended up in Auckland at some stage and was owned by a family not far from my place for a number of years (pic is on the hard at our local yacht club in the 70s, - colour pic is from a friends super 8 movie taken from his boat, on an outing together with Jaguars owner 60s/70s). It is now apparently back in the South Island being restored.
The model will use brushed 540 motors with twin ESCs etc but still a way off yet. I have to work out a way to make the cabin removable either with or without the rear cockpit, but more likely it will be a 2 piece job. It's a bit of a make it up as you go project.
Model Boats frames boat
Landcruiser motors ESCs
1 month ago by jbkiwi
Thanks for posting about pond weed control.
Biological Control .. best seems to be Grass Carp reported to eat the weeds, we are still investigating.
Chemical Control... not allowed to use herbicide as our pond is linked to the River Itchen. However we do use Barley straw extract to control algae.
Mechanical Control ... motorised cutters etc are far to expensive and you still have to rake up the cut weeds.
In the end throwing a rake out or placed behind roots by guy in a boat and pulling it in is the best solution for us, so far. one in the boat, two each with a rake and barrow. we cut and collected barrow fulls.
We continue to use Pond Dye (see biofix and dyofix.co.uk) other shading can be obtained by planting willow trees.
Weighted black polythene
for 6 months at a time has been suggested as has solar powered fountain or air pumping air bubbles as this reduces infestations and oxygenates the water.
Regards, Tall Paul.
3 days ago by Tall Paul
Martin Westquay's Piper Cub ;-)
Hi Doug - are those printwood
in the kit ? Must be a very old one
8 days ago by redpmg
CNC boat kits...?
"....I am sure that you will end up with a lot of customers when see these...."
While it is, of course, quite reasonable to charge for materials and time, I am looking forward to a future where the base patterns for a model boat kit will be available for free off the Web. You can download a lot of free patterns already, but I haven't seen anything I would call a 'real boat kit'.
CNC cutters and 3-D printers are already available at most schools, and local councils now operate 'MakerSpace' workshops where this kit is made available to the public.
Hobbyist designers could turn out the cutting files - all a modeller would need to do would be to buy the
of wood and feed them into the machine to have a kit coming out the other side. Not too sure how to do fibreglass hulls, though...
14 days ago by DodgyGeezer
40'' Seaplane Tender, new build K
Deck is now on and trimmed and chine spray rails and gunwale rubbing strip are on. Will be making the toe rails next and a few tweaks here and there, and inside edge of deck trimming to balsa facings (to be fixed) before undercoating. Cabin is a work in progress and still to be 'fitted'to deck ( whole sandpaper
strapped down tight to deck, and cabin placed on top and sanded fore and aft till a good fit) Cabin will fit over an internal coaming/upstand to keep water out.
Spray rails and rubbing strip are hard balsa toughened with cyno (toe rails will be the same) Glue for decks was West System 105 resin with 404 powder additive (magic stuff, most widely used epoxy for full sized boats in NZ.)
19 days ago by jbkiwi
Wow - that's a bit of a wide requirement! I assume you are having difficulty finding some data?
Are we talking I/C motors or electric here? Brushed or brushless? ....
If the item has ANY markings you can usually look it up on the Web - though you may need to translate from Chinese. The big companies are easy enough to get English data from, but smaller ones may pose a problem. Recently I had to photograph the characters on a box of hydrometers, get that automatically translated from, I assume, Simplified Chinese, look up the company name in Latin characters, download instruction
with likely pictures attached and then translate those....
A lot of things, including electric motors, are now made in China as 'clones' - that is, as copies of an original design, often sourced from the West, perhaps with a few modifications. Such items often come with very little info from the manufacturer, and may be made as a short run with a 'one-off' badge on them.
Under these circumstances the only way you will get information is to have enough experience in the field to be able to recognise the item as being a copy of a known item and work from there. Often specialist forums have people who can help you here...
21 days ago by DodgyGeezer
Hintsand tips - Decals made easy
If anyone is looking for a cheap easy way to make any decals of photos name plates, designs etc, here is an idea you might find useful. I use a waterslide decal paper on which you can print anything you design, draw etc on your inkjet printer. I buy this paper from a company in Australia for around $30 NZ for 10 A4
. You can buy clear or white. What you do is just print your design, photo, text etc onto the paper (plastic waterslide coated), let the ink dry, spray with either a clear lacquer or Helmar clear (the best), allow to dry, trim,soak in warm water as usual and apply. This material is quite tough and will not tear easily and you can spray lacquer over it to seal it on the model. It is a similar stuff as sold by Testors in a kit but is a lot more cost effective. I've included some examples of decals I've made for my boats and planes .
For small decals you can cut a small piece a bit bigger than your design, print your picture on A4 to see where it will come on the page, sellotape the piece of decal paper over the print, (tape horizontally top and bottom) put the page back in the printer with the same orientation as is was, and print onto your decal. This saves wasting a whole sheet of decal paper which cannot be re used. If you find a nice clear sharp design it will come out nicely on the decal
26 days ago by jbkiwi
Hintsand tips - Decals made easy
Is that 321 new P for 20
(assuming it's not just for 1) if so not too bad, about the same as mine from Aussie.
25 days ago by jbkiwi
Hintsand tips - Decals made easy
Hi C-H, had a look at that site thanks, and they don't do too bad a job by the looks of it. I still prefer to do my own as for $30 I can make hundreds of decals (depending on size) from 10 A4
. Looks like they do pretty much the same thing as I can do but just on sticky backed vinyl. They still need to be sealed as well by the looks of it to water / fuel proof them. Some of my planes fly at up to 100 MPH so these decals once sealed hang on pretty well as do the ones on the boats. As I mentioned previously about having to wait, Callies say up to a month for a custom decal ? Also, as they mentioned, the better the pic you send them the better the result, which is what I said earlier, doing it the way I do. Either way, if it works, you make it yourself or have someone do it, its how the model looks in the end that counts.
25 days ago by jbkiwi
Re: 40'' Seaplane Tender, new build F
Thanks Martin, I find that if your framing is ok, and you use medium balsa (plank grain lengthways, you seem to come out with a much truer shape to f/glass than trying to torture
of balsa or ply round corners, (pretty much do it the same as a 100% boat and you can't go too far wrong) Managed to bring the chine down at the bow using filler (which took the most time)
I'll re-do the frame patterns to fix this problem and do a few other dimension changes and frame positions in case anyone else might want to have a crack at this boat, once I've sorted everything out. I'll try and do it so I can email 100% frame outlines etc plus a bit of info to enable anyone with a bit of modelling skill to knock up a hull. As I said before, I'm making this up as I go along so it won't be perfect, but at least it should be a reasonable 'stand off' (long way off) scale model.😂
Glassing is the fun easy bit! (check out my last 100% big glassing job on my 12ft 70s racing dinghy) I enjoy glassing, as it means you are sealing in all the hard work you've put in to building, repairing, restoring etc and it's going to be there for years to come.
28 days ago by jbkiwi
AERKITS SOLENT LIFEBOAT
I have found this on the net.
Send an email to the engineering secretary at the RNLI as they sell a set for the Solent (three
@ approx £6 a sheet including postage.
Louise is always ready and willing to help modelers in any way she can.
The RNLI needs all the help and funds it can get to continue its great work at sea.
Hope this helps.
1 month ago by Martin555
Joining ply hull sides
Somewhere - in the UK - you can purchase 8 ft x 4ft
of 2 mm birch plywood. I know because I bought some for a model shop in Whitburn, Tyne and Wear a while ago - they cut if from an 8ft x 4ft for me - but the problem in now the shop in Whitburn has now closed down. I have been doing a bit of web search and I have come across this link but it seems it will only sell to the industry. If you contact them they may be able to let you know who they supply too.
Or they may even sell it to you - good luck.
When I was joining plywoods on real boats we used to feather them (taper them) but you wont be able to do that with 2mm thick ply. So, as suggested above, may be the best option.
2 months ago by JOHN
Hints and Tips.
Mate, too many years in salt water . Tips? the secret? I really paint all my wood models so thoroughly and make internal wood coamings inside of the superstructures and actually hose down first thing at home with a soft hose stream to wash off salt. Most of my hulls and decks when the model is finished have been "painted" local hardware paint or sprayed with fibreglass resin thinned down about 50% or so on paint varnished wood ( even polyurethane 50% thinned ) of which BOTH are so clear and some models over 30/35 ( i/c and steam ) years are still impervious to attack and a bit bullet proof and every so often I do a clean down with say a household (any brand will do) kitchen bench type of cleaner, supermarket spray mist cleaner , you know the ones that smell so fresh and clean that they kill ONLY 99% of all germs and baddies ( what a crock ) and I then take the model/ bits onto the grass still smelling so fresh (UGH) and gently wash away the germs and baddies and just sun dry for a bit and put back in the shed for another day. I am so petty, I also save up the dry cleaning flimsy plastic
and cut the sides so I have a long sheet to drape over each model till the next run the sawdust of other shed jobs does NOT get on the model. I fold the
off with the dust side to the inner fold , hoping I do not forget which side is which ( I think I am getting OLDER )before I check out the model (radio test, fuel ok , just lightly SINGER oil carburettor shaft , rudder post prop shaft bits , check the glow plug works, inline fuel filter is clean , AND AND leave my engine settings alone year after year AND try to exactly mix the same fuel blend over and over by careful measure but you can slop a tad more oil in as *Oil is CHEAPER than steel , if a bit rich then one click on the needle yet my mates rib me as I leave it *ALONE ). I always check, ALWAYS on the day BEFORE next days run and avoid things that go wrong at the pond side , ( you know the guy who glitches and bleats it was going so well last time ) as I am in OPEN waters I do not chance fails. Regards and good boating Lyle from Oz.
2 months ago by Lyle
Look for a simple balsa build
"........I have found that most old hand drawn plans are inaccurate......."
I bow to your experience, of course! My rather more limited exposure to vintage model plans is that they are indeed inaccurate. Your points are all true, and on top of that wood and paper can shrink and warp over the years. I handled that on the initial EeZeBilts by providing a copy of the die-cut
as well as the 'improved' cutting lines, which were 'what I thought the designer meant'.
It was still hard to be sure that I had got things right, because manual cutting from plans introduces more errors - but now that I have a cutting machine that source of errors should be minimised.
I originally thought that PDF format was a good one to use for distribution, since it was meant to be a 'facsimile image' - but I didn't realise that people can set their printers up to do all sorts of default formatting, which can alter sizes...
3 months ago by DodgyGeezer
CNC boat kits...?
Ah well, grandmothers and eggs... 😌 Still, I did say that the collet was cheaper than 1 grubscrew - not 100...
I found that mine worked first time, so you probably won't need the platform. You seem better equipped than I am for the rest of it 😉
I can, however, report that holding balsa sheet in this way is very effective. It is a sheet of ply bolted to the base, with another sheet of ply 4" wide on top. The sides have hard balsa edges rising about 1/4 inch above the ply, which are held in with a spruce strip. A 4" sheet of yellow correx is there to provide a soft base for under cutting. If I cut outside the workpiece the cutter just goes through the balsa sides, so no damage done.
4" or 100mm
of balsa drop into the 1/8th recess on top, and are held by the side balsa, which is slightly sprung inwards. If necessary they can be packed around the edges, but the recess is sized to hold them tightly. They are firmly held against the cutter, do not move at all, and the workpiece can be removed and replaced precisely in the same position if necessary. If you want you can put a weight on top of the sheet during cutting to hold it perfectly flat, and move it when the cutter is going to go over it.
3 months ago by DodgyGeezer
CNC boat kits...?
Having successfully used the machine to make the workholding support for the wood
, I started on the final leg - getting the machine to actually produce parts for a model boat. It's just going to be used for EeZeBilt balsa parts initially, until I understand a bit more about cutting tools and feed rates.
I'm not using a 'professional' spindle motor (which can cost well north of £100), but just an old model boat motor with a cheap Chinese chuck and milling head. You can see a couple of examples in the pictures below.
The first material I tried to cut was cardboard. I wanted something really weak, because the cutting tools are very narrow, and I did not know how much sideways force they would take. Turned out fine, though.
Further pictures show the first attempt at cutting balsa sheet, a whole sheet of 1/8 balsa being cut, and a couple of parts which have just been cut.
Points to make:
1 - you need a high RPM from the cutting motor if you want a fast feed speed. Boat motors work, but a high speed brushless would be better. As it is the edges of the balsa are a bit ragged...
2 - Probably the best way to keep all the parts in the balsa sheet is not to use tabs, but just to cut 90% of the way through. I left about 5 thou on the balsa part, which meant it stayed in place but could easily be pushed out...
3 - you need a soft surface under the balsa sheet in case you do cut deeper by mistake. I thought of felt but that gets caught up in the blade too easily. You could use another balsa sheet, but I used a bit of Correx. Depron would be fine...
So there we are. I have now cut a complete kit out of balsa and will start to make it up. I can recommend this machine if you want to just sit and have a beer while all the hard work of cutting parts is done for you...!
3 months ago by DodgyGeezer
Hull Paint job complete
So.... Patience is not one of my strong points and paint spraying is definately not. I don't have the facilities or the right equipment to create a first class excellent paint job, so this part of the build was always going to be a challeng and it proved to be right.
the first primer layer went on great and it looked good, followed by a layer of brilliant appliance white from a large can from my local Halfords.....all looked perfect. Then came the masking and application of the Capri Blue hull and pinstriping at deck level. Well, this didn't go great as I couldn't get the hull line correct as it shows on real life Huntsmans or the instruction sheet. In addition, the Frog tape I used, lifted in places over the hull stringers and was a real mess......it had to come off!
A re-application of primer and white gloss coat followed, and with more patience than I thought I had, managed to mask up again for the Blue Hull. I learnt from the first mistake and made sure that the stirngers were masked on all sides first, then added a solid masking strip all the way down the hull.
Although not perfect the results can be see here in the pictures.
I decided that I'd add a couple of layers of Halfords clear laquer to finish of the paint job to create a tough, clear, glossy finish, but before this decided to name the boat by using lettraset. Here I learnt a second and third valuable lesson.....make sure the paint is completely dry first and also don't spray too much laquer in one place......it makes the paint run into the laquer!!! The results can be seen on the bow.
Oh well, I tried my best and not going to re-do it now.
So, Rosalie hull is now painted and its time to do the decking.
For this I am going to use thin
of mahogany. They were not provided as part of the kit so had to appeal to SLEC who kindly sent me two
of mahogany for this purpose. Thank you SLEC for being understanding that a "Kit" should contain all that's necessary to build it and not have to go and find more pieces to buy.
Judge the paint job for yourself and don't be tooo critical as its only my second boat build.😋
4 months ago by StuartE
Transmitter Mode 2
Newbie question. I am going to buy a FlySky FS-i6 and want a spring loaded throttle on left and spring loaded rudder on right. Do I get this if I buy mode 2. ie will it be spring loaded. Chose this brand as I understand it and use it on my sailboat. My sailboat transmitter is not spring loaded on left as it pulls the
on and is then left alone.
4 months ago by juskiddin
Flying Scotsman. Iron paddle tug
This is a scratch build using plans from Brown,Son &Ferguson Ltd. plans come on three A1
which include hull profiles, plan and elevation views, and details of two types of paddles. A straight forward one and paddles fitted which an excentric mechanism. The latter is supposed to be the most efficient with the paddles turned to maintain max area to the water.
While researching found this web site with more detail. However the text is in German but it has loads of detailed drawings in PDF format.
Research showed that lots of these tugs were built in the late 1800, using the same design. My build was named because it was one of the last built for a Glasgow shipping company.
Taken from tynetugs web site
Name: FLYING SCOTSMAN
Builder: JP Rennoldson & Sons, South Shields
Yard Number: 188
Dimensions: 177grt, 29nrt, 118.0 x 20.1 x 10.1ft
Engines: SL1cyl (38.25 x 56ins), 90nhp, 400ihp
Engines By: JP Rennoldson & Sons, South Shields
Reg Number: 108767
1898 Clyde Shipping Co Ltd; registered at Glasgow
13/05/1948 Christopher & Richard Jennings, London; renamed CAMBRIAN
16/01/1951 Broken up
Comments: Last paddle tug built for the Clyde Shipping Co
1898: Cost £4650
25/08/1939 to 16/10/1939: On War Department service
13/05/1948: Sold for conversion to a yacht. Subsequently abandoned at Oban
16/01/1951: Arrived at Troon for breaking up
4 months ago by Hillro
Just been sourcing an array of display cabinet impossible cost ,can be more than the model.
So dug arround in my old data
from a few years ago and found laminating
Basically using A3 laminator run the sheet through once soft let cool and floppy run a second time it when cool is harder put through 3rd time when cool it’s harder and clearer almost like glass ? ( you MUST lay on flat surface each time or will distort)
Hope this helps Dave
4 months ago by Ravydave52
You can do a one-off donation anytime
Main menu transported here on mobile
Caldercraft Clyde Puffer Motor and Prop - Help Needed