Hi Woody, any other 2.4Gig RX that is FHSS-1 compatible;
Frequency Hopping Spread
You should be able to get precise info from the distributor here
Or from Sanwa.
Cheers, Doug 😎
12 months ago by RNinMunich
HMS BRAVE BORDERER
You don't need capacitors at all, and certainly not in series with the wiring.
Whereas I can heartily endorse all that jbkiwi says about the possibilities of modern TXs, I've only scratched the surface of what my
and Turnigy sets can do, I can see no justification for the extra capacitors on ESC leads.
The length of the wires inside a typical model can not have a significant effect on the total resistance.
Given a typical resistance of 1m of copper wire with ca 1mm² cross sectional area of 0.02Ω (less for larger gauges) it ain't gonna make a happorth of difference whether you have 4" (10cm) or 40". Maybe a little more warmth but the capacitor can't change that.
I also can't see where the spikes he mentions should come from.
Also bear in mind that the ESC does not apply pure DC to the motor but a pulse train with a pulse repetition rate of around 8 to 10kHz. That's why the motors whistle and scream.
Adding capacitors to this could distort the pulses or reduce their peak value.
If the ESC is so bad that it produces big spikes when the pulses are switched on or off (which I doubt theses days) then junk it and buy a decent one.
On no account fit a capacitor in series with the wiring, unless it is a special Coaxial Capacitor, which are very big and relatively expensive. See pic.
I've only seen them on large electric motors on board ships where the much higher currents and longer cable runs involved than in models may play a role.
A very small value capacitor, in the picofarad range might help to short out any potential high frequency RF interference but I've never experienced the need to fit them. in this respect it could be more important that the length of the cable is not close to the wavelengths typically used by RC sets (12.5cm at 2.4GHz) so that it does not act like an antenna.
Cheers, Doug 😎
jbkiwi have looked at the link you posted but I'm not convinced considering the small lengths we use in our boats. Yes there will be some overshoot spikes in the pulse train but so severe as to damage anything is in my opinion highly unlikely, given a decent quality ESC in the first place.
Something else on that link just occurred to me. There is a pic of what looks like electrolytic (polarised) capacitors between the wires. This is fine for aircraft ESCs which only run forwards, and thus produce positive going pulses. in our boats with reverse the pulse will switch over to negative going. Which after a while could have an explosive effect on the electrolytics. it blows the cans off and produces an interesting snowstorm effect. Good party trick😁 but maybe not so super inside a model boat😡
IF you do fit them to a reversible ESC be sure to use tantalum capacitors which aren't so fussy.
12 months ago by RNinMunich
well me thinks both ends of the
of possible approaches are well covered with the posts so far.
I have been given a short reprieve as four of the family are coming tonight to stay until Sunday night, so no shed time allowed.
May be able to steal some time for sketches for the layout and wiring though..............................
This was not on my list of jobs!
Many thanks all.
1 year ago by NPJ
Spektrum, new, useless...
Yeah, it turned out much easier than I'd expected, as I said it's always easier when you have the 'patient' on your bench! I was expecting to have to get the
analyser warmed up! That's the way it goes sometimes 😊 I can see exactly what my 27 and 40 Meg sets are doing on my 60Meg scope but now I'm getting deeper and deeper into 2.4 Gig tech, and prompted by Martin's snag, I just ordered a little 2.7 Gig analyser!! Curse the expense 'Give the cat another canary' 😉
Many thanks for the die cutting tips. I have some pretty good quality Dremmel diamond tipped cutting discs (0.75mm) so I'm sure they are 'Man enough'!
I 'sucked electronic eggs' so all such mechanical engineering tips are more than welcome 👍 All the best, Doug 😎
1 year ago by RNinMunich
Spektrum, new, useless...
IFound out today via bmfa that horizon hobbies who looked after
warranties and repairs are back in uk with darbrorc who are just outside stoke on Trent. Maybe they can get the tx tested and fixed?
Several years ago I had a couple of frysky tx and they needed to be set up on a pc don’t know if this is still the case?
1 year ago by pmdevlin
Spektrum, new, useless...
Wow with all that I don’t think I will be buying a spektrum?
1 year ago by tidtug
Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...
as a rule of thumb charge your battery pack the night before you intend to take your model out to play ( that includes your transmitter).
As to binding step 1 with binding plug in power up the receiver
look for a rapid flashing light
step 2 power up the transmitter with the bind switch held ON.
rapid flashing light should change to solid
power everything down remove bind plug and keep it safe.
Since I have never used the
that's the best I can do.
an afterthought you say you have never removed the bind plug are you sure its actually plugged in where it should be not just " parked" for transit?
1 year ago by Haverlock
Radio in a yacht
Hi you guys,
Your car creations sound fantastic Martin.
Like most of us oldies on here I've used all the radio makes over the years, I used to fly on 27 before it went to 35, so how long ago was that?.
The way forward now,especially with boats, and medium sized aircraft is to use the like of
dx6i which even the old model holds up to 10 models (the new one holds 250 models😳).
I have two transmitters one for boats and one for planes, I only have two because of the boats really need a throttle return spring on the left stick.
Then,as Haverlock mentioned, just buy orange rx receivers @ £9 each for individual boats or models, although I do us a more expensive orange receiver for the planes, but they only work out to £20 / £30. Happy days.
2 years ago by stormin
1960S Taycol electric motor
Hi All. all good advice for the normal brushed motors in cans with carbon brushes. But the Taycol is a totally different animal! it has no carbon brushes. They are simply stamped thin copper or phosphor bronze sheet.
Contrary to carbon brushes they need OILING to reduce the wear and sparking!
Attached are some pics from my Taycol Target renovation and modification to graphically illustrate the point. Pic one 'Before', pic 2 the new phosphor bronze brushes I made.
BTW: don't EVER put oil on your carbon brushes! Try it if you're curious, but then buy a new motor or try to find some replacement brushes 😉
If you run the Taycols dry they wear the brushes through until they have a hole in the middle and spark like crazy Pic 1. You can put what capacitors you like on, you'll still get interference especially at 27MHz.
Pic 3 shows the effect this has on the commutator. Pic 4 shows the renovated commutator, there was more 'meat' left on it than I expected😊
Pic 2 shows the new brushes I made from phosphor bronze sheet.
The spark energy density
peaks in the HF band (e.g. 27MHz!) and falls off rapidly in the VHF band (30MHz upwards) to virtually nothing in the UHF and Gigahertz bands. That (and the frequency hopping process the 2.4Gig sets use) is why they don't suffer such interference.
BTW: as a matter of probably no interest 😉 most sets only use 16 or 32 of the 85 frequencies available in the band! 😲
The capacitor values given above are unusual and will only work with a 'canned' motor, which the Taycol ain't! The norm for a standard canned motor with carbon brushes would be 0.1µF across the terminals and 0.047µF from each terminal to the can, which with a Taycol you ain't got!
Earthing to the prop shaft is also a problem. Where do you connect the wire? There's no 'can'. Frame? That's paxolin! try soldering to laminated iron core if you want. Good luck. Won't achieve much even if you manage it🤔
Once again I ask which Taycol you have, as the construction varies and hence the suppression methods / connections.
Imperative is the condition of the brushes and commutator to minimise the intensity of the spark generation in the first place!
Also important is how you are controlling the speed: also 'Period' with a Bob's Board or resistor coil and servo driven wiper??
These can also be spark sources😡 Never mind wasting precious battery power as heat😲
If you want to convert to using an ESC with proportional forwards and reverse, which Taycol field motors can not do without reversing the polarity of EITHER the field coil or the rotor coil but not both, I can show you how.
I did it with Dad's old Taycol Target, see my Build Blog 'Sea Scout Jessica'. Pic 5 shows my Taycol target dismantled, before the renovation.
Pics 6 & 7 the reassembled motor after renovation.
Pic 8 shows the motor voltage across the terminals before the conversion, complete with gigantic sparks of amplitude 100% of supply voltage.
Pics 9 & 10 show the waveform on the terminals of the modified motor at slow and fast speeds, hence different pulse width; broad pulse more speed, narrow less speed.
BUT: virtually NO SPARKS😊 and no capacitors😊
Trick is in the bridge rectifier used to connect the motor to a standard brushed ESC. The diodes in the rectifier suppress the sparks😊
Pic 11 shows the wiring 'lash-up' I made to test the motor before mods. Pic 12 the PSU used for the tests. ESC is a 30A Graupner Navy.
Instead of TX and RX I used a simple servo tester to drive the ESC.
Scope used speaks for itself! As expected speed control was possible but no reverse.
Media File 1 Vid shows the renovated motor running but unmodified, complete with sparks😡 Sorry Dave_M, I can't upload the ozone smell🤔
Media File 2 shows the scope display of the unmodified motor test, complete with the sparks that cause the kind of interference you are suffering from.
Wanted to add the final vid showing the clean waveform after the mods but it's too big for the site: 30MB max and the vid is 47MB 😭
Penultimate pic shows the circuit used to connect to a standard ESC (Brushed!) for full remote control proportional forward and reverse.
Final pic shows the test set up for the fully modified motor. Note 4 connections: 2 to field coil, 2 to brushes (i.e. rotor coil) as per circuit diagram of the interface board.
Have fun, cheers Doug 😎
2 years ago by RNinMunich
4 Motors 1 Stick
Gentlemen, today's question.
I have four motors in my, under construction, 1/200 HMS Hood. They are wired with two dual esc's, one for the port motors and one for the starboard.
I have a Turnigy 9x transmitter.
I would like to be able to use the port and starboard motors for maneouverabilty (I think that's how you spell it), eg reverse starboard, forward port etc. This is in addition to all four ahead and reverse and right and left rudder.
It would be great if I could do all this with one stick.
I have done something similar with a
6ch and two motors using such things as VTail and Flaperon, but instructions with the Turnigy are not that clear.
Is anyone willing to take up the challenge?
2 years ago by cormorant
spektrum DX6 tx
I`m having trouble binding my DX6 tx to a
AR610 rx. Any advice would be appreciated !
2 years ago by ericrw
Twin motor control problem
mtroinks have switches, so maybe when it had the pair of vipers, they where for the esc's? I would disconnect the red signal wire from the receiver end on the "y" harness, and use a separate 6v receiver supply, I have a number of twin screw setups, with a cheap battery monitor, if the esc fails, you still at least have rudder control, if the feed esc goes down, power is lost to the receiver, ensure you have a failsafe set at zero throttle. With
, its usually automatic, unless...... you have reversed the throttle! that means you throttle will go wide open in event of esc failure. Easy test, on the bench, all set up to go, make sure all the props etc are clear, just turn your transmitter off, see what happens, nothing should!
Have you done the range test? you might have been lucky having it go in reverse,
Also, the gunner that is holding the esc wire, is he wearing a Teflon glove? His hand might get hot
2 years ago by pmdevlin
Twin motor control problem
I've breezed through this so apologies if I missed something. There is no way the boat will magically go into reverse when transporting from the bench to the water. if it works on the bench, it will work in the water, out of interest, how do you know its going the right way on the bench? you might have the props on the wrong way around if directional, so its actually going in reverse on the bench.
You can run multiple motors with one
receiver, I have done it several times, with boats and planes, so its not that. Your later posts suggest more is amiss here, it could be a signal issue, as you say it sometimes works?
Have you done a range test? if you have not, This needs to be the very next job you do. Not knowing specificallky what tx you have, eg the dx6i has a built in range test, and needs to be done from all angles, and should work at least 20 metres from the boat. This needs to be a must on all models. I do this every time I sail or fly, every time, I don't want to lose a model due to signal loss, which depending on the failsafe being set, can result in full throttle and loss of control, that's another topic I suppose!
Mtrokiks are pretty much bullet proof, forget those Chinese blue things, the issue isn't the escs, its the set up.
Get the mixer out, use a "y" lead between the receiver leads, disconnect both red wires, and use a separate receiver 6v feed into the receiver, plug in the esc's, watch the lights to see if they set ok (assuming you have throttle range set them separate first), then range check, nw throttle on the bench, one at a time, with a tissue behind the prop to ensure they are going the correct way, belive me when I say its an easy mistake to make thinking a twin set up has both props with the correct direction when one isn't!😊
I see you are at Bury, thats a big well established club, has anybody there taken a look for you, seeing it in action is so much easier than over a keyboard! if you fancy a trip to the Wirral Ill gladly sort it for you
2 years ago by pmdevlin
Ok to post this under Events but you could have used Hobby Chit Chat as would cover the wider
of models at this show.
Some very nice models, were any yours?
2 years ago by Dave M
I tried one with my
DX6i and it worked okay, this was only in my workshop.
2 years ago by Jim
Hi Jim, how have you got on with the RX? is it the one that works with
2 years ago by rmwall107
Aerokit Sea Scout 'Jessica' Renovation
Evening Dave, many thanks for the response 😊I wasn't sure how my 'style' would come over! Martin thinks you created a monster 😲 monster fun for all I hope, maybe a breath of fresh air ?? "Tune in next week!"
Many German forums are very stiff also nehm ich nicht teil (so I don't take part!).
But my brand of humour always stood me in good stead during contract negotiations over the years. Often not so easy to convince the Admiral to spend his hard won millions on my system design, not to mention the yards who want to maximise their own margin.
British humour went a long way to breaking the ice with navies and yards around the world. The Koreans and Chinese were the most difficult to bring round, after that Algeria, Oman and UAE were child's play. The navies of Chile, Ecuador and especially Brazil were; very professional (and good dinner parties)👍, interesting! 🤔, and a barrel of laughs 👍😉 in that order! Canada was good, but bl...y cold! 😡 French & italian yards had great lunches 👍but small budgets (thumb down!)!
But seriously though folks; you're right of course, the ancient caps are now useless and I have much better ones now, plus ferrite rings and inductors to choose from.
Re voltage; the Taycol specs also give values for 12V running! I can use the Spektrum TX programming to limit the max volts to 12, also, when the Target is fully renovated I will first test it using my regulated PSU to find our where the limits are. Non-destructive I hope. Theoretically the motor will only take what it wants, never mind what the LiPo can provide if asked. I will also use my new Watt-meter; a tip I got here from you guys. 👍 Many thanks for that.
Re sparks; thought I might try to see the energy
on my 1G/S digital scope, most energy should be in the VLF-HF band and tail off considerably above VHF so an indication may be possible. Might be able to rig up some sort of rev counter using it's frequency meter?? Worth a try 😉
After several years concentrating on gallivanting round the world I have some catching up to do! You guys have sure accelerated that. Muchas gracias y muito obrigado! I've learned a lot the last 3 months and I think I can give a lot back. Looking forward to it 😎
Haven't used the 35Meg set for years, found it this week while looking for something else, as usual. Maybe I'll resurrect it for the flying boat??
It was replaced long ago with the Graupner MC-10. Latest set is the Spektrum DX6. Still learning how to modify or cancel all the fixed-wing and heli pre-programming I don't need. 🤔
@ John; thanks for the friendly response 👍 There was an ESC in her with the Decaperm while Jessie was using her, massive alu box thing with a big ol' 2055 sitting in a heat sink on top! Did several years good service in HMS Hotspur and still works, I think! Glad to revive some hopefully happy memories. idea for a new topic perhaps-
"Against the stream - Recycling the hard earned technologies of our youth!" 😉
Happy modelling, or better "Sailing" 😎 Gute nacht aus München 😉
PPS @ Dave (and / or other administrators): WE NEED MORE EMOTICONS OR EMOJIS AS YOU CALL THEM! Check your dumb-phones!
3 years ago by RNinMunich
The servo mount.
Hi Rob, personally I would keep the clevises, it will make fine tuning much easier than the ball and socket. As Dave said its about 35 degrees, but you radio can play a big part here. I use a
dx6i. So I have dual rates and exponential settings, and use these when at speed, and then going slow. I wont bore you with this as you may know what I am talking about, if not let me know Ill explain, but I need to know if your radio accommodates this, virtually all digital transmitters will have this.
3 years ago by pmdevlin
I believe President don't do the glass hull now due to a fire at the factory who produced them so now only have the wood hulls. I also have the 49" Perkasa (grp) hull you can see a picture in my profile, I run mine on a single prop with the following set up and it runs very stable and very fast although you need a big water to open up to full throttle..........
Leopard 4074 brushless motor
Tinergy 120A ESC
2x 500 4S lipos wired in parallel....... gives about 50 mins fast sail time even longer at a more scale speed.
Mtroniks digisound sound module
DX2e wheel type transmitter.
3 years ago by Peter501
Regarding 2.4Ghz it did used to be the case that you had to buy the very costly manufacturers Rxs.
However in recent years the position has changed and there are now several alternatives from independent suppliers that will work with specific transmitters. You do have to check that you have the correct protocol for your system, but most re-sellers make it plain in the ad and specs.
An example I use is the TRF6 from FrSky which works as well if not better than the Futaba versions for thier FASST system as used by the 6Ex model. Price is around the £20 mark so similar to other offerings.
Many now use two way systems that allow battery, temp and speed info to be monitored. This is useful if using LiPos as you can bring the model in before the auto shut off strands it in the middle of the lake. The rx also allow for daisy chaining of rx giving up to 12 channels, useful if you have a large scale model with multiple on board working features. I use a Taranis tx which really opens up the possibilities with its programming capability.
Like Derek I find the
programming challenging, but fellow club members use them and they are a nice solid piece of kit.
4 years ago by Dave M
PCF (Patrol Craft Fast) SWIFT Boat Vietnam Era
I have very reluctantly decided to see if anybody would like to own my recently completed model of above. It has taken 18 months to complete, I have spent a very long time researching the real thing, this was modelled on an actual boat that served in the Vietnam war. This is a fresh build, so its not all damp and dusty and untested sitting in a garden shed for the last few years!
In summary, it has a unique custom build drive train, 100% direct drive, ball raced, water cooled twin screw brushless outrunners. You cannot buy something like this. The glass fibre hull is complemented for strength and lightness with plastic and ply wheelhouse and cabins etc.
Lets get to the point, its £525. Might seem very expensive to some, but to others that will appreciate the unique individualism, and the amount of work that has gone into this, will see that it has a top end value. The only other Swift Boat available is the much smaller Deans Marine kit, nearly £300 unmade, no running gear, I spent over £60 just on paint and weathering materials , even the flag was a special order in silk so it hangs and moves realistically
The figures where sourced from America, very rare and expensive, £25 each, and there are 5 that have been remodelled to suit this boat. Even the 50 calibre bullets for the guns where individually hand painted. The authentic decals where special ordered from America also.
Most of the poor quality white metal fittings and parts have been replaced with custom hand made brass or aluminium parts, again these cannot be bought to this quality.
It has working nav lights, cabin lights, wheelhouse lights, rear deck spot light, front searchlight, twin gun turret spot lights and mast lights, operated from your transmitter from two separate circuits so you have a variety of light sequence options. A digital receiver voltage display is visible in a cabin window to prevent loss of signal due to low voltage. Also included is a Bluetooth operated sound unit, which can be operated using an included sd card which has a selection of Vietnam era music, or by Bluetooth from your phone, making this a real pleasure to sail!
I will leave the receiver in if a buyer will be using a
transmitter, you need your own transmitter, and possible batteries. I use lipos, we can discuss this if purchased. A custom made storage box is included It comes with spare parts, plans, and various instructions. I will deliver to Wirral, Merseyside or Cheshire, or can meet within that sort of radius. Postage is not an option, its way too big and heavy, overseas delivery is excluded, it will get broken as its fragile. If sold, the buyer will receive a comprehensive hand over to fully appreciate how the boat operates. You need a minimum of 4 channels on the transmitter to fully enjoy all the features of this boat.
Maybe the timing is wrong, just before Christmas, I am selling as it just wont get enough use and it needs to be enjoyed, my new hobby of rc flying is also very expensive, so funds are needed for this! A comprehensive build log is available to see, please pm me if interested. Whilst the boat would make a real nice ornament, it really needs to be used and enjoyed, on the few occasions I have sailed, it looks fantastic and draws a crowd.
Thanks for looking, treat yourself! 👍
4 years ago by pmdevlin
Chances are you need the same make as transmitter. I have
dx6I transmitters, one for forward only fasty's, one with standard "spring to centre" throttle for my normal boats. Both can memorise individual settings for 10 models each. Also I can double up on each one so long as, for example the rudder and motor goes the same way on each model. I think the latest transmitters can do 150 models!!!!!!.
Hobby king do there own versions under the Orange brand, and are compatible with Spektrum.
4 years ago by Derek
robbe dusseldorf fire boat Wanted
MFA used to do nice Olympus 2:1 toothed belt drives, but no longer. I have a set in a Rother class, nice engine Sound. SHG models sell the belts and pulleys, had thought of those.
Also there was one on direct drive for sale on here, I asked what the motors were and got no reply. if I get it wrong I can reduce the speeds on my
transmitter to compensate.
4 years ago by Derek
I went to the lake to test out the Sea Queen today it started great but after 150mtr it came to a stop after the long walk around the lake with a mate to recover it I could find nothing wrong everything was working fine so I range tested the orange receiver & that is where the fault was so back to the workshop & changed it for the
AR7000 with satellite next fine day I will give it another try 😯
4 years ago by Northumbrian
Must admit the issue with my latest boat has only occurred since I took it off a
dx6 set and onto a dx5 as I use it as a rescue boat. I'll have a go at range checking etc. On holiday at moment.
4 years ago by Derek
2.4gig Radio and brushed motors???
I have found that the range sometimes isn't as good as 27 & 40', no doubt down to receiver ariel length.
I simply unplugged my 27/40 receivers and fitted 2.4, without issues beyond setting rotation etc.
The main thing to think of when buying into 2.4 sets is, the cost of extra recevers. For example I have 2
sets that can store settings for 10 models in each. The genuine recevers are not cheap. However compatible non genuine types are around £5.
They are well worth the investment.
4 years ago by Derek
Round Table Class Sir Kay Minesweeper (1:48 scale by Caldercraft)
If you can find a model boat club near to home it might be a good idea to attend one of their sailing sessions and ask for help. The Caldercraft kits are very good but you will need some guidance to help you fit the basic construction.
As you intend to sail the model it would be a chance to see other models on the water and examine how others have constructed their models, and see what radio gear they are using. Unless you are intending to fly a model plane modern RC 2.4 Ghz sets will have more than enough range.
Howes Models website have some good multichannel sets that work just as well as the dearer offerings from Futaba and
, with the added benefit that additional receivers (for other models) don't cost an arm and a leg.
Good luck with your build, and please keep us posted with your progress. You can, of course, ask on the forum for any specific help you require.
4 years ago by Dave M
VOSPER PERKASA 49 INCH KIT
this guy does not charge much I got the Coble plans sized up to 1.5 times & posted for £8 he is a great bloke
I have a
7 it hold 20 models it does half for my boats & half aircraft
5 years ago by Northumbrian
This model of a German North Sea FishingTrawler was built from a Graupner kit in January 1974. The crew are South American, the dog Welsh the owner English and her home port is Maldon. She is powered by a 6volt 400 motor coupled with a Viper 15amp controller and my
radio outfit. The 6volt 10 amp gel cell also acts as ballast.
5 years ago by commodore
Lots of great info here. I could use some help to figure out my radio system. my boat is twin engine twin rudder with action mixer and a bow thruster and my radio is a
dx6I with dsmx mode2. Any thoughts on how to wire it so I have forward and reverse throttle and left right bowthruster control and rudder control?.
5 years ago by tugboatguy
Greatly modified" Moonbeam" pond yacht kit. There are at least seven of this model in our Club and every one is different! There are at least two rigged as schooners. This because whilst the hull is superb, the rest of the kit is poor. Improvements include changes to the standing and running rigging, sail areas, deck fittings and sail controls. All terylene sails are controlled by an eurgle winch operated system from a
DS 6I radio outfit. Ballast is 10lb of lead shot set in resin. Moonraker sails in the slightest puff and,suitably reefed, in quite strong breezes. (8/10)
5 years ago by commodore
(Working Vessel) ''ELKE''
1973 Christmas present Graupner kit. Launched February 1974 and sailed for a couple of years fitted with McGregor 3 channel 27meg radio. Consigned to attic where it remained for next 35 years! Relaunched 2009 with original motor and radio still going strong. Motor finally packed up 2010 so decided to "upgrade" with new power unit and 2.4 gh
receiver to match my other models. (Motor: monoperm) (ESC: viper) (9/10)
5 years ago by commodore
Found this site via an ad in the july issue of model boats mag, glad I looked it up, its a good and fresh site with a wide
of interests and abilities on show. I'm at present learning to sail my 'Phantom' yacht and between sailing sessions and when time allows I am working on a coaster in 1/48th scale based upon the models by design (ex metcalf) Pateke, I say based upon as I am converting her to incorporate aspects of coaster designs of the 50's and 60's, so therefore she is a freelance model, I'm trying to incorporate as much detail as possible, building the superstructure at present with full wheelhouse detail all scratchbuilt. I'm quite new at model shipbuilding but not new to model building, been plastic kit-bashing for 20 years ...........have interest in building fleetscales HMS Starling but as the Opossum as this was my dad's ship in 1954-56......if anyone has more details on this ship I would love to see more close up pics if poss!!!......all the best fellow shipmates!
7 years ago by DaveJay
Have you a
analyser ? was your question er yes I have an A licence armature radio licence and did a lot of alignment or equipment after building and as far as the the frequency counter next to a peg board all that shows is the centre of your signal and not the bleed over ether side, I have a stand alone unit but they can be bought that link to a pc and they are very good and comparatively cheap. I did 1/12 scale model cars at a national level at the time M series came out and I know what they looked like, I am now using 2.4gh I have a futaba FF9 with JetI moduals giving me two way communication and two Jr sets converted to 2.4 the problem is you need very expensive equipment to look at 2.4 ghz equipment anyway I do not want to start a row on this site as it is a friendly site where we discus things
9 years ago by Peter HS93
re reliable radio if you read my post you will see I am talking about late 50s and 60s radios super Regen single channel or reed relay sets, Futaba M series are relatively modern sets used them for years when I did 1/8 sets I have 3 earley 80s MC Gregor sets that all work well, the problem with a lot of the sets is that they where not designed to use split colours in freq so are a very wide signal,no fault it was the way they where designed same goes for a Lot of fleet they stopped as they where not able to get through the modern regs for narrow signals.
by the way when did you last have your sets checked on a
9 years ago by Peter HS93
My two fireboats 93/94
success !! I have done it " my photos of my two boats . the one on the water is the 94 fireboat fitted with a 500 torpedo electric motor and a
rx/tx works very well !! . The other is crash tender 93 under going a rebuild after being rescued on ebay . from a new member A prestney.
10 years ago by aprestney
hello from DB
27MHz can get quite crowded. 40MHz is better and has more available frequencies from which to choose. The latest is 2.4GHz which offers crystal free operation with the transmitter selecting a spare channel on switch on. Prices are similar across all bands but as with most things the more you pay the more reliable the equipment. Futaba and JR
are at the top of the range but I am testing a Planet set ( 5 channel tr 6 Ch Rec'r) which cost A£40, no servos, batteries. Says range good for 100 meters and I have tested without problem. However it will be prone to interference as it only uses one channel, dearer set use two channels ( two aerials on receiver) so if there is interference on one channel the other will continue to provide a signal. For an independent review of some of the systems available please visit http://www.rcmodelreviews.com/spread
10 years ago by Dave M
Aerokits 34'' Fire Tender
I have the same problem with my seaplane tender, it leaps out of the water and almost stands verticaly.
to slow it down I reprogrammed the ESC. instead when you are meant to give it full power then press the setup button I gave it just over half.
I can now pull the trigger all the way back and the boat planes safely now. 😀
another thing I tried whilst using my
conroler was to just adjust the end point for the throttle.