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    Blog
    New supplies required!
    Had to do the โ€˜glue runโ€™ today. Was in Southampton so went to the Poundland there to buy my tried and trusted two part epoxy and super glue. The
    spray can
    s are also great to have and a new product which I hadnโ€™t seen before were the pack of four tweezers. All for a ยฃ5 note!
    20 days ago by GrahamP74
    Blog
    Planking the hull.
    After shaping the frames to the hull profile and glueing shaped lime wood block to the bow and the stern, planking started at deck level. I happen to have a length of lime plank. So using a bandsaw cut lengths approx 2mmx10mmx a bit longer than the boat. I planked each side two planks at a time, glueing and pinning to each frame. Where required I soaked the ends of the planks to assist in the bending. Planks were shaped as required. Ones close to the keel needed a lot of trial and error. This all took a bit of time (4 planks a night). Once the planking was complete, the hull was sanded to smooth out the plank transitions and any bumps. The hull was then coated with car body filled, sanded, etc until happy with finish. A couple of coats of grey primer was applied using
    spray can
    s.
    4 months ago by Hillro
    Forum
    Painting over epoxy
    I have used several Halfords Aerosol
    spray can
    s on boats over the recent years. In each case I have sanded the hull down to bare wood as the boats were vintage ones and did have coats of paint on them that could not be identified. Best to use thin applications of both primer then paint then build up on that after leaving 24 hours between each coat. Another good point is that Halfords also stock plastic primer in their paints range which is ideal if your boat has a polystyrene hull or you have plastic fittings. Boaty๐Ÿ˜Ž
    4 months ago by boaty
    Forum
    Painting over epoxy
    Halfods
    spray can
    s will work brilliantly of if you know of someone who works in a body shop get them to spray it with 2 pak paint for you Dave
    4 months ago by Dave J
    Blog
    Painting the hull โ€“ Part 1 primer & anti fouling.
    Thereโ€™s no putting it off any longer, I need to start painting the hull before I do any more on the boat so the hull was given a final rub down with a fine abrasive and then the deck and gunwales carefully masked off. I used some panel wipe to thoroughly de-grease all the surfaces and then put the hull in the โ€˜spray boothโ€™ on my turntable and applied two coats of Halfords grey primer. I left this for a couple of days to dry and harden off before setting it on my bench. The next stage involves levelling the hull fore and aft and side to side so that the waterline can be established. Fortunately the well deck floor is meant to be perfectly level when the boat is afloat and at rest and this is the datum I used to level to using a couple of spirit levels. The rough waterline points were measured off the plan and transferred to the hull to be used as approximate starting points for the waterline. For my previous build I bought a self-levelling laser to indicate the waterline so this was brought out for the same purpose. The laser level was placed on another workbench a couple of metres away and gradually raised with packing pieces until the projected line agreed with the rough position marks Iโ€™d made on the hull and then finely adjusted until the line was correct and pencil marks made at intervals along the projected line. The process was repeated for the other side of the hull and then also marked across the stern, fortunately the stern line and bow markings joined up accurately confirming that the levelling was spot on. Good quality low tack masking tape was then applied all around the hull and the area above the line masked off with a couple of layers of newspaper. The exposed hull was then keyed with a fine Scotchbrite type pad and cleaned off with panel wipe before two coats of Halfords red oxide primer applied as the anti-fouling.
    4 months ago by robbob
    Forum
    Sea Queen - strakes
    The principle is simple. Fluid flowing over a surface tends to stick to it (Google Coanda Effect). it's worse at the low Reynolds numbers that models work at. The result is that water displaced by the boat at speed tends to flow up the sides of the hull, sticking to them, and can even pour onto the deck. This slows the boat down and can swamp it. If you have a sharp chine, you can force the water to move away from the hull at the discontinuity, because it can't easily flow around a sharp angle. ideally, you can deflect it downwards and get some lift, helping the boat onto the plane. So a lot of models have small rails along the chine, shaped to deflect the water downwards a bit. This is what many of the Aerokits models have. Deep Vee design relies on these a lot - the bottom of the hull has a series of parallel spray rails so that as the boat rises in the water the spray is deflected downwards by each rail in turn and an ever-smaller part of the hull bottom is wetted - reducing drag a lot. But the Sea Queen is not a Deep Vee, and doesn't need more that the one set of rails along the chine. Deep Vee spray rails can also help to cushion the shock when a boat drops back into the water after leaving it - but that's more useful in full-size practice rather than models....
    5 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Response
    Anteno 2 tug
    I used an old cooker hood as the basis for my spray booth with the filters taken out and vented outside, and has built in lights. I also use it as my silver solder/brazing and small welding jobs using the back wall as one side with simple hardboard sides and a rotary table (old party susan) if you can remember them, it works really well and allows spraying in my workshop in the winter months.
    7 months ago by mturpin013
    Response
    Anteno 2 tug
    Hi Dick, To 2nd plank or not to plank - your choice but regarding the improvised spray-booth - Your storage container, neat idea, may prevent you from colouring the immediate surroundings, but it won't stop the vapours, explosive fumes and overspray dust from rebounding back into the room. ๐Ÿ˜ก Ask me how I know ๐Ÿค” To prevent that your storage container needs an extractor fan coupled to a vent pipe leading to the great outside world! DIY nuts can construct such using the guts of an old vacuum cleaner. I was about to try that when I stumbled across a booth with extractor and vent pipe at a reasonable price on the German Conrad site. https://www.conrad.de/ Have used it to good effect on my Sea Scout restoration. ๐Ÿ˜Š In the attached pic one can see it behind the freshly sprayed hull of my Sea Scout. To the left is an additional filter/fan to absorb any overspray that flies out of the little booth. I also use that when soldering with my ancient lead based multi-core solder. Happy modelling - but stay safe Guys ๐Ÿ˜‰ Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    7 months ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    HMS BRAVE BORDERER
    You are correct in your thinking. The component is called a spray rail and is mounted at the chine line from bow to stern. The spray rail provides additional lift so planning can be achieved at a slightly lower speed, and at the same time deflects the spray down and out from the side of the boat at speed.
    7 months ago by bubbletop409
    Response
    aeronaut classic
    Evening Sifi, Nice job, lovely woodwork ๐Ÿ‘ Tip / Suggestion; to give your decks that 'final touch' how about spraying with a clear lacquer? I use one from the auto branch, e.g. used with touch up
    spray can
    s (esp. metallics) to melt/blend in to the original finish. Gives the varnish a finish like glass - sea attached pics of my Sea Scout. Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    8 months ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    Spraying Again.......
    Well had a break of a few weeks, now back on the job. So now have a Red Oxide boat rather than Yellow oneโ€ฆโ€ฆโ€ฆโ€ฆโ€ฆโ€ฆ Although these next stages are a bit โ€˜ sameyโ€™, I have learnt a few things as it happens. For example, I had put three coats of the Halfords filler/primer on a couple of days before I had a break. Now when I left it all looked dry, well covered and โ€˜solidโ€™. When I came back to it some weeks later the longer drying period had shown up some gaps. Well not gaps actually but โ€˜mouthsโ€™ where tissue I had overlapped had pulled apart slightly. interesting, easily fixed with some 240 grit sanding, showing that the drying period is longer than it would appear. At least for filler/primer which is a much thicker substance than just spray paint. With the sanding, I had not appreciated the difference between the grades say from 240 upwards (or is it downwards) as my experience was with doorframes and floorboards. For the stage I am at, 240 and 400 seem very effective and leave a good surface. What I did find was how important dust becomesโ€ฆโ€ฆโ€ฆโ€ฆโ€ฆโ€ฆ The sandpaper rides on it (the powdery dust) and so becomes much less effective and I found brushing with a thin 2 inch brush worked well, using the vacuum cleaner to clear up later. I did try blowing it off with the heat gun but that put the dust up in the air too much. it is my intention to try โ€˜wet and dryโ€™ approach for later coats and looking for a better answer when it comes to finishing coats. Another interesting discovery was coverage per rattle can. It may be my โ€˜beginnerโ€™ technique, but it seems to take a lot of paint. On this size of boat hull, 44inches (112cm) by 14 inches (36 cm), it took a 500ml rattle can of yellow filler/primer for three coats. For two coats of the red primer it took the whole of a 300ml can. Also discovered, using these โ€˜rattle cansโ€™ for the first time, that the primer on its own comes out differently to the filler primer. This unsettled me for a minute or so but appreciate may be due to the different density so will be aware next time. Another issue that became obvious wasโ€ฆโ€ฆโ€ฆโ€ฆ..I must improve my โ€˜masking offโ€™ ! So that is it so far. Next stage is - going to buy a couple more cans for the finishing coats, do a bath test, mark the white line point, more sanding down and then start applying the finishing coats. Any helpful comments will be much appreciated. NPJ
    9 months ago by NPJ
    Forum
    Painting
    Ah! I thought Fairey might prove the exception to the planking rule. Well, it'll look nice, that's for sure. Paint. I always use enamel and my local auto paint shop will make me 1/4 litre tins up, of HMG, which lasts a long time from a small spray gun. Failing that, Rustoleum do some lovely rattle cans in a range of colours that spray very well and are only just over a fiver a tin. One tin would do you if you're careful. I've just given my Darby One Design its second coat of blue after a rub down and I'm happy with that. Dries very quickly, but is a nice gloss. it is a bit thin, so be very careful how you spray. Better to do two coats than one thick one. But really, if you can get it, HMG is the best bar none. Worth hunting for. Paint, alas, just ain't cheap anymore. Would that we could get tins of Valspar or Japlac, eh? The proper original stuff. Plastikote was a good paint when it was an enamel, now it's acrylic water based muck. No coverage and reacts with itself, let alone owt else. I would be inclined, btw, to do that curved deck in veneer, so all your mistakes will be made before it goes on the boat. in which case, once the planks are made and fit bang on, go up the edges with a black marker pen. it will look like caulking when all is done. Good luck, Martin
    9 months ago by Westquay
    Blog
    HMS BRAVE BORDERER
    The weather has quickly turned colder, giving an excuse to get back to this model. Stripped out much of the interior and the prop. shafts to replace the nylon propellers with brass. These items all needed removing for painting, so decided to paint the hull before reassembly and then moving onto the superstructure. Fortunately, examining similar naval vessels and several U Tube videos, confirmed the hull as light grey, the deck a darker one of the 50 shades of grey and the lower hull below the waterline black. Used thin Tamiya masking tape to define clean colour separations, followed by regular tape, masked the hull into colour sections and sprayed using โ€œrattleโ€ cans. After the colours applied a light overall Matt coat to subdue any shine. The results are satisfactory. Will now reassemble and move onto building the superstructure and the other fittings. Prior to the season closing decided to experiment with my new Flysky Tx/Rx package, shortly to be fitted to this model. This Tx has a servo limiting function, which was hoping could also be used to restrict ESC output. Would like to make the full speed motor response correspond to full Tx control position. Currently can over power the model; which lifts the stern, causing it to come off the plane and then dig the bow in. Was thinking that if full throttle could be set at around 90% forward control movement and 40% sternwards the model would retain adequate performance, but without being overpowered or very sensitive to control lever movement. As the Brave was not available, tried the idea on my Daman Stan 4207 model. This is brushed motor powered and a good performer. Obviously the settings for the Brave will be different, but at least could try to see if the idea would work โ€“ it did! This Tx function is easy to use and adjustments can be made whilst the model is on the water. Once the ideal settings are achieved they can be programmed and then retained in the Tx. Will try this on the Brave when back on the water next Spring.
    9 months ago by RHBaker
    Forum
    Styrene Allergy?
    .... and make sure the working area is well ventilated, an extractor fan helps enormously, as also with spray painting or soldering (esp with the old lead based solders). it's the solvents drying your skin out, removes all the skin oils. Can make your eyes sting as well. ๐Ÿ˜ญ Cheers, Doug
    9 months ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    HMS BRAVE BORDERER
    Adjusted the transom flaps and reprogrammed the ESCs to the softest start settings, retested. Until now, the test runs did not have the duration or stability to really examine what was happening. Using 3 S batteries acceleration is rapid and a is plane quickly achieved. However, as the acceleration continues and speed increases, the bow digs in. A cloud of spray then surrounds the model as the plane is lost. Brushless motors do not modulate as smoothly as brushed and adjusting power tends to be erratic or exaggerated. This is a scale model and the propeller shaft angles are per the plans. The thrust from the propeller has two components, horizontal and vertical. The horizontal propels the vessel forward. However, the vertical component forces the stern upwards and, correspondingly, the bow down. Have moved as much weight as possible towards the stern to counteract this, limited by maintaining the correct displacement and waterline. The easiest solution is to reduce motor power, decreasing both speed and the lifting component. Decided to retry the 2S batteries as they give reduced power. A plane is again achieved, but as the motor response is more docile, it can be controlled. if the speed gets too high the bow lowers, as before, but the motor output can be more easily adjusted. Spent a pleasant half hour or so with the vessel accelerating onto and off a nice, controllable plane. Much less spray and drama than with 3S and much more controllable. Have now decided to revise plans and use 2S rather than 3 batteries. A further advantage is the motor noise is muted and now sounds more like a gas turbine than a dental drill! Finally feeling comfortable with the model. Will thus shelve further building until the late fall when sailing in Canada concludes. Want to enjoy the rest of my fleet in the meantime! Will summarize my experiences with brushless motors in another blog shortly for the benefits of others contemplating their use. After restarting the model will resurrect periodic build blogs to advise progress.
    10 months ago by RHBaker
    Forum
    1/16th scale Fire Boat decals
    Hi all, got my Crash Tender bottom sprayed red today, so I'm nearing when I'll need the hull decals for FIRE, roundels and numbers. Anyone know where they can be had from? Also what does that stuff on the bow say/look like. I can hand paint that if necessary. Cheers, Martin
    10 months ago by Westquay
    Blog
    Renovating my Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat.
    Started the long job of sanding down today. I think this is going to take a while. During last week I spent the time removing all of the deck parts still attached. The motor, rc gear, rudder, batteries and prop shaft have also been removed leaving the basic hull and decking superstructures. I have visited my local model shop today to see if I can sort out the paint. I have decided on acrylic but the cans are so small that I would need loads. I also cannot find a suitable red for the hull bottom. I am looking for matt. I was also considering making the main colour Pacific Green or similar. I have found Navy Grey which might have to do. If anybody can help with where to source suitable paint in reasonable quantity I would be grateful. I have purchased the sanding sealer and primer. I was considering air brushing the whole project but not so sure now. Any thoughts?๐Ÿ˜ I have taken pictures of the progress so far. A lot of sanding still awaits me.๐Ÿ˜ก I purchased two Mk 17 gun carriages for the tubs. I cannot believe it but they fit perfectly. A picture of these is also below. One last question for now. Should I brush paint, air brush or
    spray can
    . The boat is 40" long. Another long day of sanding tomorrow but with greater care as I am tackling the skins. I remember how thin these were when I originally constructed the model.๐Ÿค”
    1 year ago by MouldBuilder
    Response
    Range Safety Launch?
    Hi Neville, I recognise the 'I want it all and I want it now syndrome' cropping up again๐Ÿ˜‰ Wev'e been down this road before haven't we!? You don't have any "structural' problems. The original builder simply cheated and covered over the 'back bay' instead of fitting it out. And - Why do you want to mess with the cabin tops? To get the boat going for some fun just leave the superstructure like that for now and think about it and fiddle with it in the winter. The deck looks fine from the photos. Just flat off with some 1000/1500 grit wet & dry and give it a spray of medium sea grey and finish with satin or matt varnish. After you've fixed and repainted the hull. If you do all we've said to fix the hull, and apply the fix up to the joint of hull and deck there will be as good as no chance that the deck will leak. When all is said and done YOU saw the boat before you bought it and YOU had a specific purpose in mind apparently. Namely; some quick fun. Soooo - fix the hull, have some fun learning to drive it, and leave the fiddly bits and embellishments until the 'closed season'. Then you can deliberate and decide if you want to restore it as an RSL or convert it into something more exotic. Looking forward to your cogitations on the electrical layout๐Ÿ˜‰ What Action bits are you thinking of using? BTW: if you had a fire at all with the heat gun either you have it too hot, turn it down to about 300 -350ยฐC, or you're hanging about too long in one place. The gun should only be just hot enough to start the paint surface bubbling up. ATB Doug
    11 months ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    Bit of a problem.............
    Well if you have read the โ€œLeaking Boatโ€ thread you will know that my cunning plan to fix the leak failedโ€ฆโ€ฆโ€ฆโ€ฆ.. Even after drilling holes in the boat (?!?!), pouring in sealer and persuading my โ€˜assistantโ€™ (I think I am married to her, but it was a long time ago now to be sure) to shake the boat as you would a cocktail shaker to distribute the fluid over the insides (not seen her move like that in thirty years)โ€ฆโ€ฆโ€ฆโ€ฆโ€ฆโ€ฆโ€ฆโ€ฆ..Did not do the trick. Yes I know you told me! I am now not in a place I wanted to be. No sailing for it this season, facing the prospect of a lot of dust and over-spray and trying to apply skills I do not have. I am at the edge of myโ€ River of Styxโ€. The images show I have reluctantly collected together items I have for stripping paint. The large wire brush I have in my other hand! So I have had a bit of a go at the โ€˜red stuffโ€™. Looks like a large area to tackle and then I went to investigate that โ€˜funny bitโ€™ on the side of the bow. Well bits of filler flew off in all directions and exposed this crack which I hope you can see to the right of the metal rule. Could this be the source of the leak? Well it is two compartments away from where the water collects. On the other hand someone mentioned water passing along the โ€˜layers?......... Am I really going to need to strip all the paintwork down to the wood or is there something else I could look for as a clue? Most of September I will not be able to function much so I will have a good go whilst I can. It really does seem to suggest I have โ€œbought a pupโ€. All the best. NPJ
    11 months ago by NPJ
    Forum
    Brass bashin' Chris Craft deck fittings...
    Is it a silver finish you want? or chrome finish, if chrome is what you want, try ALCLAD paints, saw them at Telford IPMS show last November, and decided to try some on a club 500, you have to spray the base coat of black, and then the candy silver over it, really gives it a chrome more than silver finish, I think you can get it on Ebay, not expensive and worth a go๐Ÿ‘ Peter๐Ÿ˜Š
    11 months ago by Rookysailor
    Forum
    three model live steam boats for sale
    Mornin' Maurice, No not yet. So far I've cleaned and primed the hull and bought new ESCs, 50 calibre MGs with mounts and ammo belts from Shapeways, scale crew members and Pacific cammo paints, Oh and the 37mm field gun for the foredeck. Then I got tangled up in a restoration and conversion from static to RC of an ancient Billing Boats Danish fish cutter. ๐Ÿ˜ฒ Right now I'm trying to figure out how to fit my renovated and converted Taycol Target motor plus battery and usual electronics into the small hull! Have been considering spraying some colour on the PTB hull the next few days, while it's still warm and dry outside๐Ÿ˜‰ Then I can set about refitting the shafts and rudders. What are you up to? Apart from sniffing round steamers!๐Ÿ˜ All the best, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    11 months ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    One Bottle of Thinner!
    Had to order a small bottle of Testers Thinner. See, I used
    spray can
    s to paint the superstructure of the Brooklyn! So there was some area's that need to be tidied up a bit! So my idea is to spray some of the leftover paint. into a small cup and use one of my small brushes. To paint over some area's that have over spray! So, I need a way to clean my brush! Hence the Thinner...โ€ฆโ€ฆ.! Now, I can finish the build of the Brooklyn! Tommorrow, I plan on working on her running lights! For this I must give credit where it is do, Thanks to RNinMunich Doug, for you hard work and dedication, Thanks again Doug! I printed out the diograms you sent me. They are a lot of help!
    11 months ago by figtree7nts
    Response
    Range Safety Launch?
    Never seen the spray type! I'm happy with the brush type cos, as Donnieboy says, you can also do light glassing with it, like I did to reinforce my Gina 2 fish cutter๐Ÿ‘ Can't see how that would go with a thin spray๐Ÿ˜ฒ Might be useful as a sealer though? Motors, then leave alone for now and see how it goes. You can still use lighter LiPo batteries but preferably only with a 'LiPo safe' ESC which stops or slows down the boat when the LiPo approaches it's 'suicide voltage ๐Ÿ˜ฒ Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    11 months ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Range Safety Launch?
    Thank you for that. I have stopped panicking now........... I could only find Ezecote in
    spray can
    form so have ordered that. Would like the brush on as well if I can find it later. Found water in two bays when starting the drying out. Had a look externally and can see issues with the 'front end', but the problem does not appear to be there as the bays are dry. Leaving it over night, so will play with 'parts' when they arrive later. Now may be the time to change the props and stuff some grease up...? Been thinking more about what has been said about the motors, by two of you now. Would prefer to leave them as I seem to have enough hassle at the moment. Cheers all. NPJ
    11 months ago by NPJ
    Blog
    Aerokit Sea Scout 'Jessica' Renovation
    Some of you may already know part of the story but, spurred on by Martin 'Westquay' and commanded ๐Ÿ˜‰ by Admiral 'Dave' here goes ๐Ÿ˜Ž Dad built her originally when I was about 12, so ca 53-54 years ago. She was 'No name' and free running with a Taycol Target, ahead only, and a 6V (very) wet cell lead acid. (Down to the garage again for a 'top up!) Anyway, to cut a long story slightly sideways ๐Ÿ˜‰ MY daughter Jessica found the boat in the cellar when she was about 12! And immediately wanted to run it on the local lake in Munich, as I was doing with my HMS Hotspur (but that's another shaggy model story!). Sooooooo, she was cleaned up, resprayed pink (๐Ÿ˜ก!) and white, Taycol Target field motor (no reverse) removed and replaced with a Decaperm 6V 7A with 2.75:1 gearbox. 6V 4000mAH SLA (weight half ton or so) Performance was rather sedate. Well it seemed like a good idea at the time! RX, battery and rudder servo were shoehorned into the aft compartment, Jessica nameplates stuck on and off we went. Jessie was happy with the boat and I was happy with the Biergarten. Can't remember where 'the management' was ๐Ÿ˜‰ Jessie soon lost interest so I used the boat as a test bed for a while. So now, 25-26 years on; prompted by Martin, I took the old lady down off the shelf /I TOLD her not climb up there!๐Ÿ˜‰) and started inspecting the damage. Photos attached. (Yes I know 35Megs is not for boats but I didn have nowt else then๐Ÿค) The ancient DIN Audio socket was for charging the RX bat, double throw switch on starboard quarter. The big 'ole was for the telescopic antenna borrowed from an old radio. Needs must when ... The funny looking 'thing' hanging out the transom is a dummy exhaust hiding the bolt holding the antenna bracket inside! Have also started dismantling and renovating the Taycol, which I want to put back in with a reversing circuit and a 2S or maybe 4S LiPo. That was day before yesterday. Yesterday I took out the junk (siren, water pump, servos & micro switches to operate them and the running lights) and wiped the dust off - last two photos, incl. THE JUNK. Stripped of all the junk & Decaperm she weighs 1214gm (about 2lb 11oz). Also tested (cautiously!) the Taycol with a regulated / current limiting PSU. She rattled and protested but ran ๐Ÿ˜Š Now being dismantled, cleaned up and brush gear refurbished. Might also fit proper bearings! Next step: clean up the old gal, check for leaks and load capacity. I will probably use the 4S LiPo ca 310gm, the SLA was 660gm, so lots of spare capacity, or maybe I can get her nose out of the water for once More soon Cheers from Munich ๐Ÿ˜Ž PS to DAve and Martin: NO! I don't propose to go full authentic nostalgia with a wet cell accu ๐Ÿ˜‰
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Media
    Sterling Emma C Berry
    Model is 49โ€ long and with ballast keel added weighs 17 lbs. hull is covered with 2 layers of 2 oz. cloth fiberglass cloth and painted with Krylon
    spray can
    paint. Hitec sail winch servo for main sail and standard servo for jib. Model has auxiliary 6 volt electric power to compincate for my sailing abilityโ€™s and wind conditions. Sails are Mylar.
    12 months ago by Mikep
    Blog
    Making and Fitting tinted windows
    This was actually done back in April, somehow it ended up in another thread and I forgot to put it here!๐Ÿค“ After spraying the cabin white I used the windows 'oles to mark templates for the windows. Which I then transferred to 3mm tinted perspex / acrylglass and cut out on the table scroll saw. Despite careful marking and cutting still had to fiddle about with filing to get 'em to fit right ๐Ÿ˜ก Pics 1 to 3 show fitted windows still with protective film. Pics 4 to 6 film removed but still to be polished. 7th pic; Les piรจces, 8th pic; ze glue ๐Ÿ˜‰ I chose 3mm 'glass' a) to match the 3mm ply of the cabin walls - makes it easier to get a flush fit, b) could get it in green tint ๐Ÿ˜Š Think there was also grey and red !!!! Red for a 'Fun' Boat perhaps ๐Ÿ˜ฒ Glue used; Deluxe Materials Canopy Glue; "Thick, flexible glue. High grip. Dries clear. Fills gaps." Here endeth the advert๐Ÿ˜‰ Last pic shows final result after polishing. Maybe sometime, when I haven't got more interesting things to solve and build, I'll make some alu or mahogany frames! ๐Ÿ˜‰ Happy glazing folks๐Ÿ˜ Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    12 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    46Firefloat Mk2 paint
    Unless described as flat, paint was more often a brighter satin than matt and rarely actual gloss. White will always have been an off white as the components of paints were such that it was not possible to get a really bright white. I know that for a fact as my grandad always made his own and until PEP in the mid 60s (Plastic Emulsion Paint) there was no such thing as brilliant or appliance white. Unfortunately getting an decent off white is not easy these days since Plastikote went acrylic and their previously excellent paints started eating themselves on recoating. I now use enamels exclusively. They are densely pigmented, flexible and modern enamels dry pretty quickly. I am using a black enamel primer on my Crash Tender, which I will then spray with black "gloss" from the same range, which, once thinned with white spirit, will dry a little less than glossy. I still don't have a matt brick red for the undersides, but it can be made matt-ish with a careful rub down with 1000 grit wet and dry used wet and soapy, but be careful not to sand through, so very lightly does it, even 1000 grit can cut well when new. Decks were said to be Cerrux Light Deck Grey, anti-slip, which means a textured surface. That would be darker looking due to the surface texture's way with the light. The cabin sides were described as "smooth", i.e. same as the decks but not anti-slip. The roofs? Well, on Vosper's drawing "white" is crossed through and "Grey" written in. But, some pics do look white, the best pics look darker by a whisker than the sides and the roofs are clearly textured as they show evidence, as do the decks, of filth which will sit in the texture. You choose. NOBODY has yet given us chapter and verse. The fact is, an already very handsome boat looks so very pretty with white roofs. But they too should be off white if you can get it! Good luck. Fittings, btw can be had from SLEC in Watton in white metal. Basically the old Yeoman fittings, masters now owned by IP Engineering who bought them to cast when they owned Vintage Model Boat Company. Now they've sold that to SLEC, but I don't think SLEC have white metal casting facilities, so probably cast by Ivor still. I have just had a set for my birthday and they're excellent. They do need careful cleaning up as in mould lines need to be filed/scraped/sanded to a decent finish and then given good primered surface. No hook though, but it does include nav and riding lights. This site also has masts for sale in plastic, but I made my own in brass as I will the hook and davit. I have also just had a set of crew figures cast from my patterns and they will be available soon...a driver(Helm), a boss with binoculars and a lazy slob laying around in the after cockpit. Needs a roll-up to finish his look. No idea of price yet as don't know how much rubber to mould or resin to cast for a set. Yes, 1/16th scale. All this to finish a model I had 55 years ago! But I reckon it deserves it. Martin
    12 months ago by Westquay
    Blog
    BRAVE BORDERER
    Whilst waiting for the new motors and ESCs, reviewed videos of the vessel under power and noted that as the speed increases, the bow lifts towards a plane. However, as she gathers speed the transom flaps become effective, forcing the bow down in a cloud of spray. At this point the plane has been lost and the model becomes almost uncontrollable. Decided to temporarily ballast the hull to simulate the new motors and ESCs, then try to establish the optimum flap angle using just the centre propeller and shaft. This is the original 2838 brushless motor installation with a 30 mm propeller. With this simulated drivetrain it would also be an opportunity to determine the best battery locations for both 2 and 3S Li-Po batteries. Made up an angle template with a spirit level to get the correct deck inclination with the vessel floating at rest. From this located each type of battery statically - somewhere close to the mid-point of the hull. Which also seemed as good a place to start as any! Somewhere in the research for this model found a reference to the transom flap angle. This was at a 2 degree -ve (pointing downwards) angle. installed the 2S battery and tried the model. The bow dug in at speed. Adjusted the flap to a straight and level position and tried again. The bow still wanted to dig in, but to a reduced extent. Readjusted the angle to 2 + ve and repeated. The bow now lifted so the forefoot just cleared the water and then remained in that position. Replaced the 2S battery with the 3S. The extra power obviously increased speed and the bow lifted slightly further. The spray was deflected by the chine rails and a level plane established. The conclusion is that the transom flap angle is critical to the correct planing of this model and that it should not be negative. Until the new motors and ESCs are fitted will leave the transom flap and battery locations as is. Once these components are installed, intend to repeat the test. Am confident that with some fine tuning the model can be now made to plane properly at a scale speed. Interesting to note that the model will just about plane with only one propeller operating โ€“ wonder what it will be like with all three?
    1 year ago by RHBaker
    Forum
    Windows, stoopid question.
    Hi Guys, many thanks for the responses๐Ÿ‘ So, in chronological order:- Mike: I did chamfer but probably not enough ๐Ÿค” Yes I know about the lead in side of the die ๐Ÿ˜‰ and I know the one step forward half step back technique ๐Ÿ‘ I bought this tap n die set recently, made by Toolcraft so not cheap rubbish, maybe expensive rubbish?๐Ÿค” 3mm is the smallest in this set and the holder (with ratchet action๐Ÿค”) is big an' clunky and weighs 340gm so not the easiest tool to keep level. Maybe good for a 1/2" Whitworth but not so super for a 3mm which is the smallest in this set. My 'Fine thread' set only goes to 2.5mm ๐Ÿค” As you can see from the pics the die is solid and there is only one locating screw so I can't open the die slightly as you say, and I remember from my car restoration days. Cutting oil I also have, mostly used on my two lathes, both Proxxon, one for the BIG stuff and one for the twiddly bits, pics 4 & 5. Have just used the littl'n to drill a 4mm brass bolt screwed into a 35mm prop so I can reduce the thread to 3mm for the shaft, pic 6. IF only I can get a decent thread onto the shaft ๐Ÿ˜ฒ I'll put the shaft back into the littl'n and turn a taper on the end as you advise. My Milling machine is only a teeny weeny one with no possibility of mounting the die on it, pic 7. it's very useful for pre-drilling precision holes in in spray rails an' such to take the 0.5mm pins for fixing. Just used it to pre-drill the new keel for the cutter. I have tail stocks for both lathes but no possibility to mount a die holder. Will investigate that pronto cos I'm gonna be faced with this snag again soon; 2 new shafts for my Graf Spee and 4 for my HMS Belfast. Might also look for a different die set๐Ÿ˜ฒ In the meantime I'll try improving the chamfer๐Ÿ‘ Martin; as you can see from above I do have lathes, and a good selection of silver steel rod, so many thanks for your kind offer but now you've pointed the way I'll have a go at making my own punch. That piercing saw set looks good so I'll spring a few โ‚ฌ for that ๐Ÿ‘ You never know I might be able to use some shortened blades in my ancient Minicraft jig saw, for which you can no longer get spares ๐Ÿค” Your MB III looks great, and I can see why you were taken for that German musician - Doppelgange! Thanks for all the advice Gents ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘ G'night. Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž PS Just put me name down at Frau Schmutterputz's, but I'd more likely be found in the roses or perhaps petunias singing- "I'm a lonely little petunia in the onion patch ...." ๐Ÿค“๐Ÿ˜ฒ
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    54 year old Crash Tender
    Sort of! All done with Giant Duplicolor
    spray can
    s! ๐Ÿ˜‰ Nearly shook me 'and off ๐Ÿ˜ฒ Yep. learned about the diaphragms! They were a bit tricky to balance but made a hell of a difference compared with the crappy standard Solex. After crunching the Minx on black ice in Thetford Forest ๐Ÿ˜ก I took 'em off and put them on a Triumph Herald. That and gas flowing the motor ins and outs bumped her up from 75HP to about 125 ๐Ÿ˜Š Getting the needles and jets right was the trickiest bit. Tested on the Rolling Road at Marinello's in Egham near Staines where I lived at the time. Then changed all the suspension and brakes to the Vitesse types. Had to stop her somehow ๐Ÿ˜ฒ The Herald had piddly drums! I resprayed it ('hired gun' this time๐Ÿ˜‰) from hideous pale lilac to metallic mid blue. Ended up swapping it for our Finance Director's Rover cos he wanted the souped up Herald for his girlfriend ๐Ÿ˜‰ Then started respraying that; black and silver ๐Ÿ˜Š Sanding back my cutter I've just discovered another thin spot I can see light through ๐Ÿ˜ก Back to the resin and tissue stage. BTW: also seem to remember reading about the airscrew-masts some years ago. Don't think it was a general thing but 'they were there' and obsolete for current aircraft. it WAS an RAF boat after all๐Ÿ˜‰ Happy Vincenting, remember looking for the photos last year. Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Deck Hardware Painted!
    Hi John, of course you are dead right๐Ÿ‘ Vaseline is the stuff! I should have mentioned that!๐Ÿค” Definitely NOT graphite or Lithium based grease or any other conductive / semi-conductive material or any thick heavy grease. Warming it slightly is also a good tip ๐Ÿ‘ Alternative is the switch cleaning / protection spray. Comes in cans with an applicator tube just like WD40. Vaseline is probably cheaper though. Nevertheless, I still prefer toggle switches to slide switches every time. They have a spring loaded snap action for better contact and self-cleaning. I like the hi current jobs from the auto branch with built in LED so you can see what's happening, or not ๐Ÿค” Like in my Sea Scout for instance. Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    54 year old Crash Tender
    Boaty, it's amazing how many people HAD Taycol motors, but don't anymore, apart from our chum Doug in Munich. And I'll pick his brains later maybe for info on controlling the Taycol Supermarine in the Crash Tender. Then again, I might just set it off on one pack for slowish and switch in another for faster. I ain't into reverse. Boats don't go backuds. I've had enough real ones to know that! Two of those didn't have any gears. One had a clutch and the other didn't even have that. it starts, it goes, quickish! Always had a paddle handy in the Albatross! I'm not really into the boat club festivals of steering round stuff or backing into docks, so why trouble myself with ESCs which seem to fail often still and weren't around when I had the boat originally. I have gel cells, but the damned things have all gone dead on me, so I might see about Nimh packs when the time comes. I went to get some one shot cellulose putty to fill the cracks and grain bits and the old nail head dips. But my favourite auto paint shop said they hadn't sold it in ages and offered me some acrylic crap in a tube. Not a bloody chance!!! "Gimme the thickest brushing primer you got and it better be cellulose". Yeah, got that, he said. "So why ain't you got stopper?" No answer. Anyway I get this stuff home and it's thick, cellulose (skin forming after 3 minutes) and bang on the right shade of light grey for a Crash Tender. I shall experiment with my Chinchila dust next for the non-slip areas and mix a pot of the primer with a bit of white to do the cabin sides, when I finish spray. For the moment, I very quickly slapped it on with a brush and will leave it for today to harden then start a very big, dusty, rub down session tomorrow. OK a litre of primer ain't cheap, but it's cheaper from a car paint suppliers and it's bang on colour. it'll also do a LOT of boats! I have a black primer in enamel for Vanity, which will also go on the sides of the Crash tender, followed by black gloss enamel, but's a way down the road yet. Talking of old stuff boaty, the white enamel my dad insisted on painting the boat back in the early 60s is hard as rock! He used to get it by the 20 gallon can from a "mate on the docks". We had docks in those days. Dad called it ship enamel. We all knew what he meant. Our entire house was shades of pastel tinted ship enamel! Tints courtesy of another mate on the docks. He had a lot of mates on the docks. it was difficult to be a Cockney family and not have mates on the docks! Pics later of the slapped on grey primer, which, I should say, argued a bit with the sanding sealer. Nuffin' a good rub down won't sort out. Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Response
    Seaplane Tender 360
    Hi Bryan, If you want to do the SOE version she was most likely painted all matt black! The colour of skulduggery ๐Ÿ˜‰ What ever you do, despite your good intentions to retain the 'old patina', judging by the photos you are in for a complete strip back and redo. Just as I have discovered with the PTB I bought. Thought it would just be a 'cosmetic job', flatten back and respray with Pacific green camouflage. Ho ho ho! Pics show what she currently looks like after cleaning off layers of enamel, and discovering that the prop shafts and rudders were misaligned and the chine strakes glued to the paint. ๐Ÿ˜ก Never mind an engine room fire when I tried to test the 'as bought' motor installation. ๐Ÿ˜ญ Since those photos I have fitted new a new chine strake and started reinforcing the thin hull with glass fibre tissue. Next issue; set prop tubes properly and make an alu bracket to mount both the motors. Then set the rudder stocks correctly. Last thing I want is to dampen your enthusiasm, but that hull looks like it needs oodles of TLC. ๐Ÿค” Be aware of what's ahead of you and plan accordingly๐Ÿ‘ Deck looks pretty neat, if unusual for a WW2 in service boat! As far as I can tell from the photos it's not just the cabin roof which is warped ๐Ÿ˜ฒ cabin and window frames will also need some attention by the looks of it. Before you run that motor I would strip it, clean all parts and check brushes and commutator for wear. See my Sea Scout blog 'Taycol Target motor' for a 'How to'. Should run well with a 3S LiPo, 11.1V. These boats weren't the fastest, 28 - 30 knots I believe. Which is why ST360 was reduced to more mundane duties after try outs by SOE. Don't forget some spark suppression!! Good luck, whatever you decide to do have fun doing it, Cheers Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Warped wood
    Hi Martin, Yes I'm very happy with it. ๐Ÿ˜Š Not the cheapest but very good. I use the whole range from Base coat Pore Filler (Sanding sealer) through matt, satin and full gloss varnishes. in both brushing tins, for small part brushing, and
    spray can
    s for the bigger stuff like hulls and decks. The cans don't reveal what the base is but the thinners is white spirit or any of the usual 'universal' substitutes. It's made in Holland, supposedly specially formulated specifically for model builders! But it's available all over the shop, I get mine here from Krick. Just Google Lord Nelson varnish and you'll find loads of outlets, and Hotels ๐Ÿค”! For Sea Scout I used all spray; 2 base coat, 2 coats of satin varnish, as undercoat! Then 2 coats of Gloss varnish. Needless to say thin coats! And left to harden under a 300W halogen lamp๐Ÿ˜‰ Lots of 'flatting' back in between culminating with 3000 wet & dry, wet with a little liquid soap. Final polish using two stage paint cutting / polishing paste from the Petrol Head world. See pics. Full details (including the bloopers๐Ÿ˜ก) in my Sea Scout Build Blog. Have fun with it, cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž PS Shame about the Lupins๐Ÿ˜ก, that hybrid sounds fantabulous! ๐Ÿ˜‰ BTW: if you use the brushing stuff thin with 10 to 20% white spirit, otherwise you'll find, as I just did with base coat sealer on the deck of my PTB, that it takes yonks to get the brush marks out ๐Ÿ˜†
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Fire Boat (crash tender) colours...
    Doug, interesting technique, turning them negative, but it does show that the cabin tops are marked as grey as well as the decks and coaming (cabin sides?). As you say, smooth versus non slip will look different in raking light. I had wondered that, but the lightness of shade goes right round the angles of the fore cabin. That's actually the effect that made me ask. Considering these particular boats were only ever two in number and never really in service for long, despite their popularity as models, so I don't reckon they had a repaint as they weren't around that long. it's just that the drawing you negativised says grey for all the surfaces, yet everybody makes the cabin tops white. I'm wondering whether to make the cabin sides a noticeably lighter shade of grey than the decks and cabin tops. Problem now is how do we represent non-slip on a model? Sifted Chinchilla sand into slow-drying wet paint, then spray with the correct colour? Glad to see you confirming what I thought about the half round edging to the tops, Doug. I can imagine that being a standard kind of process. Now, we need details of the derrick and its winch. Apparently it was portable. I bet that was a lump to lug about in a rolling seaway! Cheers, Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Painting
    Most model boat hulls are way too big for an airbrush and in fact, even a spotting gun on a decent compressor can take a while with it's small spray pattern, but a rattler can ain't gonna last long on say a 30" hull. I'd say brush paint with a decent enamel, like HMG. Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Blog
    H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER
    Now the spray has settled have assessed these first tests; have also reviewed various pictures and U Tube videos of the Brave and Pekasas in operation. The actual vessels look to plane rather like mine, whilst some model bows lift up until a significant length of keel is exposed. Anyway, have been able to draw some conclusions: 1) Moved the battery towards the stern and, at speed, the forefoot lifts slightly clear of the water. The plane is now almost flat. The battery is not well positioned when near the bow. 2) The 2S battery used was a 4000mAh 30C; suspect this battery does not have the capacity to operate the model. Every motor will run up smoothly until a second one is operated. The first motor then โ€œstuttersโ€ and a fuse might blow, this could be indicative of a power surge. Any comments from the electronic experts among the group would be appreciated. 3) The 3S battery was 10,500mAh and 40C; with this battery all three motors can be run at full speed together and fuses do not blow. it was also very heavy at 1700g, holding the model down. 4) The motors are 4500 kV. On refection, think a slower motor around, perhaps 2000 kV would have been a better choice. 5) Would concur with comments by others that a simple single or two bladed propeller layout for this model is probably best - that is unless you want to capture the true scale layout. The centre propeller seems to have little effect on overall performance, although it will power the model quite nicely when operating by itself. Have had several suggestions about how best to use the centre propeller. Will think about them and decide later how to do this when I start to finish the model. 6) The 2 blade Hi โ€“ speed propellers both increased performance and current draw. The model is more than fast enough with the original scale layout. 7) Will purchase a lighter, 3 S battery as that seems the best choice for performance and weight. 8) Testing using the bare hull with a minimum of detail worked well. For a models with a complex power train, this is a good approach as access to the internals can be gained easily. Nothing worse that finishing a boat carefully just to find the performance disappointing. Then having to to rip it apart to make major modifications or adjustments!
    1 year ago by RHBaker
    Response
    Sea Scout 'Jessica' Sea Trial - at last!
    Thanks Ron, must say I was very happy with the performance. Was a good afternoon out ๐Ÿ˜ Now to finish off the fixtures and fittings! And fit SPRAY RAILS!! Many thanks also once again to Canabus of Hobart, Tasmania for recommending that motor and prop combo to me๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘ JFF I also bought a 3500kV motor. Reckon if I fit that and run on 3S it'll rip the shaft out ๐Ÿ˜ฒ Have to find another boat to fit that in ๐Ÿ˜ BTW: the 'Daddy' swan in the last scene chased me out to the middle of the lake and also tried to bite my leg!!!
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Spray painting hulls.
    Ah, cellulose, of blessed memory. I still have some, come to think of it, but forgetfully, I bought black gloss enamel for Vanity and some enamel primer for it also in black First coat on today. But I will definitely experiment with spraying the final coats. I sprayed an old pre-War Marblehead with enamel and it went on well. You can still get cellulose if you can convince the dealer it's for your classic car. My son has a 1951 Renown so I could always quote all IT'S details to get it, but I don't think they'll post it and I'm nowhere near any suppliers geographically. I couldn't see the point in paying for epoxy tissue so I bought a huge bag of J cloths from Poundland and used that with epoxy. Slarred the epoxy on the mahogany hull (made from old chair legs my Grandad had made a dining suite with) and then laid the J-cloth on the tacky epoxy and slarred more on with an old credit card. All my credit cards are old now and a damned site more useful as epoxy squeegees than they ever were before. Got a few ridges where they overlapped, but filler sorted that out. The hull is still very light, so will need all the large lead weights on the end of a long fin keel (removable) as it carries a big rig, (see avatar). Good luck, Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Spray painting hulls.
    Hi guys, I spray my hulls using various systems. I have an industrial 120 litre 3hp compressor, with devilbiss spray guns which are for larger areas. I also have Badger air brushes and compressor with 2litre tank for the smaller hulls and detail work. I sometimes use cans, which I usually get mixed at local automotive paint supplier. I try to stick to R.A.L. paint codes. Most automotive paint from my supplier is acrylic or water based. But I always try to use good quality synthetic lawyer. I recently tried a polyester based laquer but it didn't thin down very well. But whatever method is used for painting it's the preparation that makes the end result, and that's 90% patience and 10% skill. I certainly have more patience than skill as I've only been doing it for 50+ years. Cheers Colin.
    1 year ago by Colin H
    Blog
    H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER
    An unexpected opportunity arose to try the unfinished hull in a small pool. Whilst the performance envelope could not be explored, was able to try and measure operating parameters and get a โ€œfeelโ€ for the model. Used an electronic scale and a combination voltmeter/ammeter/wattmeter to measure propeller thrust /bollard pull and motor power requirements. if it is necessary to fit different drivetrain components, or a 3S cell this will serve as the baseline. The model floated levelly and well above the waterline. At about 8 volts the motors drew around 20 amps each at full speed; so only about 35% of the potential output capacity was being used. Tested each motor individually and measured the bollard pull at just over 2 lbs. A considerable amount of spray and wash was created making stable readings difficult. For further testing, will add ballast at the stern to hold the propellers further underwater. Should help reading stability. Currently using 20 A fuses; which as one failed seem marginal. For sustained use think 25 or 30 Amp better. With these high-speed, low torque motors establishing the โ€œdryโ€ propeller rotation is deceptive. Found one motor to be reversed! Nevertheless, the model accelerates quickly and is sensitive to engine speed movements. Left the pool with a list of modifications to make before assessing the installation properly on an adequate body of water. Some conclusions can be made though. if it is necessary to add a second cell this needs to be located around midships, not in the bow or stern. Still hoping a 3S cell will not be necessary and that 2S may be adequate. The suggestion to do testing using the bare hull with a minimum of detail was a good one. For a models with a sophisticated power train think this is a good approach. Nothing worse that finishing a boat just to find the performance disappointing, then have to to rip it apart to make major modifications or adjustments!
    1 year ago by RHBaker
    Forum
    Which Paint?
    A couple of years ago i scratch built a 1/24 scale Vosper Long boat MTB 510. I spray painted the hull and super structure with Halfords white and gray primer. The Hull was given coat of Matt clear laquer Spray (Plasticote). The deck and super structure were also coated in a matt laquer spray. This product was Rustoleum Crystal Clear Matt Laquer. I have used this product before on acrylic base paints, and had no problems. Do not use on oil based paints as it will crinkle the surface. The Plasticote product i used on the Hull was fine at the time but a couple of years on the surface has become crazed. so i will have to repaint the complete hull sometime in the future. Can any one out there recommend a paint combination or product that is satisfactory, and will not craze like an old masters oil painting from the 1500s.
    1 year ago by andyhynes
    Forum
    Bristol pilot cutter mascotte
    Back to the main hull Have finally got the hull sprayed today with this heat it has been drying faster than I can spray it on ๐Ÿ˜„ Firstly the hull was sanded with a 200grit paper to sand of the shiny coating to give the paint something to key too. It has had three coats of undercoat sanded with 2500grรญt wet and dry paper between each coat.the undercoat used was Halfords rattle can plastic primer. Then the lower hull colour was sprayed on again three coats sanded with 2500grit paper between each coat.colour used was Halfords rattle can ford arctic blue. the top half of the hull was sprayed with two coats only with it being black plus I didn't have enough paint to give it a third coat๐Ÿ˜‹ colour used was Halfords rattle can satin black. Finally the hull was sprayed with Halfords rattle can clear lacquer three coats sanded with 2500grit paper between each coat.
    1 year ago by kmbcsecretary
    Response
    Sanding down.
    Thanks to you too Peter ๐Ÿ‘ Will be watching your progress also with interest. As you have an airbrush you can buy concentrated paint of the exact specific colour you want, don't have to rely on 'well it looks similar' from
    spray can
    s, and you will have much more control over spray area and shape, overspray and above all an even spray pressure. Compressor with air tank highly recommended for the latter ๐Ÿ˜‰ I'm collecting the bits and paints for my ELCO PT Boat but I'm determined to finish the restoration / upgrade of Dad's old Sea Scout first. I hope he's looking down and is happy with what I've done with his boat up to now. Spent yesterday making a mahogany aft deck / hatch and sub-frame for it. Now more sanding and varnishing!! Happy painting, Doug ๐Ÿ˜ŽPS: before you start with the colour coats on your boat I can highly recommend that you apply a coat or two of primer / filler, not just the thin normal primers. White primer would be better under the light Pacific Green and grey under the antifouling red. ๐Ÿ˜‰
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Sanding down.
    Hi Peter, you're right about the sanding down. Take your time and apply a generous Dollop of Patience ๐Ÿ˜‰ Any short cuts here will show up all through the painting process ๐Ÿค” See my Sea Scout 'Jessica' renovation blog re hull restoration!! My motto for painting is 'Brush for little fiddly bits, spray for big bits' e.g. hulls. I agree model shop
    spray can
    s are usually small and relatively expensive for big hull. I use giant cans from the professional suppliers, again see my Sea Scout blog for descriptions and suppliers. Also agree about care with the thin skins. After sanding and sealing, with Lord Nelson pore sealer, I reinforced my Sea Scout inside (where I could get to!) and out with DeluxeMaterials EzeKote resin. it's not the cheapest but it's water based, doesn't pong and doesn't need mixing with hardener Brushes just wash out in warm water. Couldn't be easier ๐Ÿ˜Š Flat off starting with about 600 or 1000 grit annd work up to 3000 grit and you should end up with a finish like glass - see decks of my Sea Scout๐Ÿ˜Š For my ELCO PTB I bought Colour Coats MTB Green (from Sovereign Hobbies in UK) for the darker camo patches and italeri Flat Sky, # 4856, which is almost identical to the lighter Pacific Green for the base coat. After painting and detailing, pennant number and decals and such, I shall seal it all with a matt spray varnish. i use the big Lord Nelson
    spray can
    s for that. Re Gun Tubs: love the gun carriages but I guess they're much too big for my 28" boat. ๐Ÿ˜ญ BTW: forward gun tub is too far forward. it should be further aft just in front of the screen round the bridge entrance starboard side and should be set half into the forward cabin. Just cut half of the lower section of the tub away on the inboard side to match the cabin height. See pics. You might find this Pinterest site useful for more detail๐Ÿ‘ https://www.pinterest.de/pin/557039047643301834/ Register to get full access, it's free and you can get updates for the things that interest you. Hi Ray, attached are pdf files of the Aerokits plan. Just scale up to what you need and awaaay you go ๐Ÿ˜‰ Look forward to the Blog๐Ÿ‘ Cheers Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    The Lone Ranger Rides Again or Hull Finishing ;-))
    Hi Boatshed, the Germans have a saying / proverb "รœbung macht den Meister"! = 'Practise makes the master' or Practise makes perfect! Basic reasons for runs are- 1) spraying too close and 2) moving the nozzle too slow, Both resulting in a heavy coat that can't support it's own weight! Also trying to put another coat on before the previous one is fully dry and hard. Like I said; Patience is the main secret ingredient ๐Ÿ˜‰ Cheap cans spit, quality cans don't! The ones I use, esp. the K Series for cars, come with a selection of colour coded nozzles for Small areas cone, Medium to large cone and a large area fan shape. Mostly I use the medium nozzle. Small one if 'touch-ups' are needed ๐Ÿ˜ฒThey nozzles also fit DIY shop cans ๐Ÿ˜Š Start spraying beyond the object and carry on at an even pace beyond the other end. Go back in a slightly overlapping stripe until there's an even THIN coat all over. Then - FIND SOMETHING ELSE TO DO FOR A HALF HOUR OR SO!! It's like the old lady in Brooklyn who asked a Cop 'How do I get to Carnegie Hall'? Cop's answer "Practise lady, practise" ๐Ÿ˜ BTW: shaking a good bit longer and heating the can in hot water (to increase the pressure!) can sometimes help with the 'spitting'.๐Ÿ‘
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    The Lone Ranger Rides Again or Hull Finishing ;-))
    I see you have shown some small bristle brushes. Yes I do have those all stored in a Cadbury's chocolate finger tin. When I said about bristle brushes I meant larger ones from DIY shops for painting larger area's. But looking at your build blog this is where I am going wrong. You seem to be spraying and I use brushes. I am not very good at the spraying lark. I always seem to get runs. I think I must try to rush the spraying but I also seem to get cans that end up spitting the paint when I use them. I think some more perseverance is needed. Thanks for the information.
    1 year ago by BOATSHED
    Response
    The Lone Ranger Rides Again or Hull Finishing ;-))
    I think a lot of my problems are that when painting I have used brushes, and I find that these new ones that are now not pure soft bristle do not give such a good finish and I should be using spray paint. I do not seem to get the finish on them that I should. it is your secret ingredient ( patience) that I must be lacking. The more I look at your Sea Scout I the more I think that the hull is almost the same as the Sea Hornet that I have got but with an upper structure. Any was thanks for the information I will have to get my head into gear and search my brains to see if I can find some of you secret ingredient. Have you decided yet on your pin striping. But I will look forward too seeing yours in action.
    1 year ago by BOATSHED
    Response
    The Lone Ranger Rides Again or Hull Finishing ;-))
    Hi Mark, thankyou ๐Ÿ˜Š The paint is, not surprisingly for me, from a German manufacturer: Peter Kwasny Gruppe. They also make the pro car paints I sometimes use. It's article number 320 078. Kรถnigsblau / Royal Blue. The can top is darker than the finish actually turns out! To me it's lighter than Royal Blue but I'm happy with it. I also used - the white primer from the same company; article number 320 411, before that light grey filler primer, # 233 032, and finally clear high gloss protective lacquer # 633 017. The blue and the white primer I found in a local building supplies store under the name 'Hit Color Decospray'! They are specified for indoor and outdoor use; emission class A+. ๐Ÿ‘ You might find something similar in your local DIY shop. I think your Puffer would look superb in this colour. if you want a darker shade you might try a thin coat of matt or satin black after the primer? The primer filler and lacquer I bought online some time ago as part of a Pro Scratch Repair kit for my last car. Now what can I do with the rest of the Toyota Navajo Red ??? I sent them the paint code from my car registration and they mixed up an absolute perfect match and delivered in about 10 days ๐Ÿ˜Š I'll dig in the archive for the web link. Ciao, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž PS I think you're right, I'll go for Gold (๐Ÿ˜‰) and hope I don't mess up the hull! Tamiya tape should help.
    1 year ago by RNinMunich


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