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    Forum
    Being Sociable.
    Hi Gary, My apologies for not seeing your post earlier, I don't log on very regularly, preferring to spend as much of my spare time in the work shop. I am interested in marine
    steam
    as well and currently I am building a model of Formidable, LT 100 from John Pottinger plans enlarged to 1:24th scale. I have built a double acting, twin cylinder oscillator,
    steam
    is to be supplied using a
    steam
    generator otherwise known as a mono-tube boiler. Control being done using a Taranis 9xd programmable radio, quite untested at this stage. I have added a couple of photo's. Cheers, Stephen.
    1 month ago by stevedownunder
    Forum
    Mystery Boat
    In the 1950s I went to the IoW on a paddle
    steam
    er which I think was called SS Princess Elizabeth. That was the only one I can remember and she sailed from Portsmouth to Ryde pier..
    1 month ago by Salar
    Response
    Anteno 2 tug
    I feel I have to comment on your Anteo Tug, that has to be one of the neatest planked hulls I have seen in a while, and the paint job on the hull is quite incredible, wow. I built this kit back in the 1970s and it definitely is and was really good value for money, none of your white metal rubbish, near enough everything was brass and good quality. I opted for the authentic look and fitted a
    steam
    plant into the hull, not an easy job to cut down and strengthen all those ribs, but worth it in the end. Enjoy your hobby.Regards.Gary.
    1 month ago by GaryLC
    Blog
    funnel mounts and deck hatches
    Fitted the "legs" to the wheel house so now at correct height when on the deck. Funnel mounts done (just need to finish the funnels, workout what holes to drill and then mount the funnels to the mounts) so we added 2 hatches to each mount, painted white with brass hinges. the one placed between the Cowl vents is open, the one at the back is closed. as we only had "closed" hatches put a triangle shaped bit of plastic under the "open" hatch to prop open. When dry mounting the Cowl Vents found an issue with the rear vents as they are suppose to be higher than the wheelhouse and the ones i got where not, so found 2 wooden cotton reels the right height and turned then down to the correct width using the pillar drill as a lathe, painted them up and then placed the Cowl vents on those. also painted the "flat" vents chrome and stuck those to the mounts as well. to finish off these all we have to do is fit the breather pipes and ladder to funnels and fix the funnels to the mounts (allowing for the front funnel to have the hole for the smoke generator. Started work on the 2 deck hatches using 1mm plastic sheet. Made the 2 housings up and the planked and varnished them ready for the hatches. found out i had only enough hatches to do 1 housing, so drilled a 7mm hole in the hatch for a 10mm brass porthole, painted white with brass hinges. once dry stuck them on the housing ready to go. (ordered some more hatches to i can complete the other housing lol) one last thing was to start on the wheel box. Found in "The Works" in town a heart shaped box which was almost perfect for a mold for the thin wood that was
    steam
    ed to shape and then held on the heart to fix the curve in place. next to do is to make up the front and back of the wheel boxes and stick the "curved" wood to that
    2 months ago by barryskeates
    Blog
    end of week report LOL
    good week this week, i should of said that there are 2 of us working on this Tug, myself and my father. this means that we are splitting the work up and as he is retired he can spend some more time on the boat than i can. so, (and i forgot to take the "before" photos) we have the wheelhouse and the platform it sits on (as the platform is held above the deck on a number of legs. plasticard and wood veneer outer cladding with a (removable) roof. going to put lighting in the table, telegraph, binnacle, map table and ships wheel. painted the 4 Cowl vents then we dry fitted (placed no glue) the various parts( wheel house, funnels, mounts) into place on the deck to see how it looks. finally painted the funnels yellow to match the Cowl vents still to do on the Funnel mounts is to paint and place the vents (flat vents), fit the Cowl vents, paint and fit the hatch covers (white hatches with bronze hinges) fit the pipework to the exterior of the funnels drill holes in the front mount for the
    steam
    generator funnel and finally mount the funnels to the mounts (so not too much just for those 2 bits)
    2 months ago by barryskeates
    Response
    Hull progressing nicely!
    I hate the idea of having to shape the balsa front ends. I have in the past re cut the bottom skins on 1/16th marine ply and
    steam
    ed and pinned with small brass nails. But if that model is all balsa you couldn't do that but if the bulkheads are ply and chine stringers then it is possible.
    2 months ago by BOATSHED
    Blog
    Deck Parts
    good weekend Made up, painted and planked up the engine cover and the 2 funnel stands. Funnel stands need to have the Cowl vents, funnels, hatches and tow mounts fitted to them. Need top make up, create, paint all of those first of course😁 also looking at a
    steam
    generator to go into the front Funnel so a hole will be drilled into the mount for that as well
    2 months ago by barryskeates
    Forum
    Bollards
    Hello John The Waine book,
    steam
    Coaster and Short Sea Traders arrived today but have yet to find the image of the mushroom. Toby
    2 months ago by Toby
    Forum
    Bollards
    hi Toby on most drawings depicting hidden diameters is normally done, as you say, in dotted lines and 10 inch diameter can indicate the bollards width at its middle section which, in this case, it does. Yours on the model you are building from the 1930s will not be prefabricated steel i.e. welded, they will be cast. The British shipyards were rather slow on the uptaking of welding steel and it wasnt until after the 2nd world war that we really got into the swing of things - long after the Americans, the Germans and the Japanese had been doing welding ships before the war. Three photographs which show you the type of bollards and the top of a bollard and also can show you the physical size of them. As far as the mushroom vents go, according to British
    steam
    Coasters by C.V.Waine, there is a small drawing which shows a true mushroom shaped ventilator on a ship - also in the book from Norman Ough he has a set of drawings of them, although they were mainly aimed at Royal Naval ships, they would also be found on a merchant ships. John
    2 months ago by JOHN
    Forum
    Being Sociable.
    I have two
    steam
    boats, an Alexandra and a Tug which was destined for the bin, until my friend suggested that he may know someone who wanted it. I refurbished the boat and the
    steam
    plant went to Clevedon
    steam
    who stripped it, reset the burner etc and added a few new bits, glass water gauge etc. The rudder is controlled by an electric motor, NOT a servo, so you have to return the motor to central after a manouevre, so you have to think well ahead of where you are, and where you want to be!!
    2 months ago by CaptainFlack
    Forum
    Being Sociable.
    Gary many thanks for your response, firstly may I congratulate you on your models, they are really to be admired. I have yet to check out your web suggestions but I am keen to look and hopefully find something of interest. I will share with you my only dealing with
    steam
    , As a boy of 13yrs I transformed a Mamod static engine (SE1) to fit in a 36" yacht hull, needless to say it wasn't a pretty sight but it did work, in a fashion. All the best Michael
    2 months ago by mturpin013
    Forum
    Being Sociable.
    Hallo Gary, Your curious response to my post prompted me to look back at your history. In your very first post on the site four years ago I ran across this about a tug project of yours - "My reason for trying to build this particular kit in the first place, is it is 39 inches in length with a beam of 10 inches, with a one piece large superstructure making it ideal for a
    steam
    engine." All very fine but it underlines the snag many of us have, especially naval modellers with 10to1 LoA / Beam ratio, that we simply don't have the beam and superstructure height necessary for
    steam
    power plants. Regards, Doug.
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Being Sociable.
    My Dear Gary, If you wish to start a
    steam
    er thread then why not title it as such? In no way did I wish to be AntiSocial. I simply responded to your somewhat provocative question, which I quoted in my previous post, as did several others on the site in similar vein. Whilst I admire those who can build
    steam
    engines, and I have done that on this site, I simply listed in my response to your (perhaps rhetorical question?) the obstacles that most modellers are faced with when it comes to
    steam
    power in models. Perhaps I should have added number 7. - For most of us the SHIP is the main objective and not the power plant which in the vast majority of cases is hidden under deck. If
    steam
    is your THING - GREAT I have no problem with that. More power to your boiler 😊 It just won't work in my ships and boats. Esp. my subs πŸ˜‰ And I don't have the patience for all the faffing about necessary to get going at the lake - one of my six points mentioned above. And I suspect that goes for many other contributors to this site. My post simply consolidated several similar responses from other members. You write; "I could correct all six points that you felt you had to share ..." I would be MOST interested to read your refuting of ALL my six points if you have some valid arguments. Throughout my professional engineering life I have always been open to alternative ideas and solutions. So prove me wrong and uncross my wires please. I look forward to your point by point refutation. BTW; as an experienced electronics engineer I always carefully double check my circuits before applying power - so crossed wires are not normally a problem with me. Similar principle also applies to my considered response to your posts. Regards, Doug 😎 PS: did you build your
    steam
    engines or buy them? There are some guys on this site whom I admire very much, but can not emulate, who build their own. PPS: Quote "In the fifty years or so I have been involved in this hobby I have NEVER ever installed an electric motor in a boat." Fine, if that's your THING, does come across as a little fanatical though.πŸ€”
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Being Sociable.
    Doug, the Thread Title on my post is Being Sociable, and not how to be AntiSocial. Thank you for retyping my words of wisdom, did that catch a nerve or rub you the wrong way or something. if you feel you must comment then kindly do a little research and get your facts right. I could correct all six points that you felt you had to share, but there would be no point as per water off a duck's back. I am a fan of
    steam
    but not a fanatic, and I won't get
    steam
    ed up and unlike you, I didn't get my wires crossed.
    2 months ago by GaryLC
    Response
    Tug Brooklyn!
    Except the smoker Ed? Looking forward to Nick's answer πŸ˜‰ Like the whistleπŸ‘πŸ‘ How about a little
    steam
    release to go with it? Servo operated valve to let a little '
    steam
    ' out from the smoker perhaps? (When you get the new one set upπŸ˜‰) Very nice build Ed Hat off 😎
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Media
    Tug Brooklyn!
    Tug Brooklyn
    steam
    Engine Sound along with
    steam
    Whistle Sound! Sorry about the shaky camera. Trying to do too much at one time!
    2 months ago by figtree7nts
    Forum
    Being Sociable.
    "Why go to all that trouble of adding artificial engine sounds and smokers, when you can have it all and more, by installing a gas boiler and
    steam
    engine. When I think of the problems involved to find plans and scratch build a boat, why not go for the authentic look and fit a
    steam
    engine." 1. Cost. 2. Space available in the model. 3. Complexity of the engine and difficulty of control. 4. Fire risk, and not just to the model.😲 5. Shorter run times, longer '
    steam
    up' times. 6. Unsuitabilty for many types of ships / boats. I.e. originals weren't
    steam
    ers. If I read above posts correctly I thought you had already found at least two kindred spirits here. I'm sure that if you take the time to cull throught the hundreds Build Blogs and technical Posts here you will find others. Try using the Search function. See the panel on the left of the Home page. Good luck,😎 BTW: Nobody likes a fanatic! Don't get
    steam
    ed up 😁
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Being Sociable.
    I would have loved to put a
    steam
    plant in Tug Brooklyn. But, one is cost the other would be. The Brooklyn is all Plastic! Now really have you looked at the prices! Talk about sticker shock! And for that reason. I use electric motors! But for those fortunate to be able to get
    steam
    engines. Enjoy!
    2 months ago by figtree7nts
    Media
    Tug Brooklyn
    Tug Brooklyn
    steam
    Engine Sound Generator Test! With her Running Lights on! I couldn't use her
    steam
    Whistle!😀 I only had one 9 volt battery!😭 Anyway here goes nothing!
    2 months ago by figtree7nts
    Blog
    Ram48 Sound Generator - Cont!
    Captain's Log: Today I installed the RAM48! It works OK for a Sound Generator! Take a look at the Video Gallery. For a Test of the
    steam
    Engine Sound Generator! Or take a look here! https://youtu.be/LHcmt44yMvI
    2 months ago by figtree7nts
    Forum
    Being Sociable.
    I have the same issue...cost / budget. I enjoy mechanical devices and have though about
    steam
    for years. But cost is high and I do not have machinist quality tools to scratch build. Are there low cost solutions out there! Joe
    2 months ago by Joe727
    Forum
    Being Sociable.
    Not everybody can afford the investment in
    steam
    , I would love to build a model with
    steam
    power if only I could pick up a
    steam
    plant for around Β£40 -Β£50.The unit you show I think would come in at something more than that. so I suspect there are other admirers of
    steam
    but out of reach because of cost. Just a quick search sees prices of a complete installations in the region of Β£1500 -Β£2000
    2 months ago by mturpin013
    Forum
    Being Sociable.
    I have only built static ships /boats so am probably not the best person to comment but one of the main factors that I can see are if you are young and just starting out saving pocket money or older and living on a limited budget. is the cost differential between a basic electric motor and a basic
    steam
    plant I may be wrong just my opinion. Cheers MarkyπŸ‘
    2 months ago by marky
    Forum
    Being Sociable.
    I really can't believe that considering all the members that use this website, that no one is interested in
    steam
    engines and what
    steam
    has to offer. Why go to all that trouble of adding artificial engine sounds and smokers, when you can have it all and more, by installing a gas boiler and
    steam
    engine. When I think of the problems involved to find plans and scratch build a boat, why not go for the authentic look and fit a
    steam
    engine. in the fifty years or so I have been involved in this hobby I have NEVER ever installed an electric motor in a boat. if anyone out there in the ether shares my passion for
    steam
    , kindly get in touch, I would appreciate not being completely on my OWN.
    2 months ago by GaryLC
    Blog
    RAM48 Sound Generator!
    Captain's Log: Tug Brooklyn is a 1910
    steam
    Tug. So, Why not have it sound like a
    steam
    Tugboat! I ordered the RAM48
    steam
    engine sound generator. All I have to do is install it! The RAM48 doesn't go connected to the motor. Like other RAM sound Generators! The RAM48 uses a Magnet that is glued to the shaft! Or in my case the universal coupler! I didn't think it was right to glue the magnet to the shaft. What if the shaft has to be taken out for maintenance! Anyway the RAM48 works with a magnet and sensor chip! To make the Chuff and Hiss sound! OK, after you let the magnet dry over night! You then have to carefully. Place the sensor chip about 1/8". Away from the magnet! Since Tug Brooklyn is made of Plastic. I can use a scrap piece of Plastic. To hold the sensor chip in place! Well, that's it for now. I'll update this post. As I work on setting up the sensor chip connection!
    2 months ago by figtree7nts
    Directory
    (Other) Lady Ayla and Elena.
    Clinker built open launches built to show off the boiler,
    steam
    engine and complex plumbing. (Motor: The Caton piston valve) (ESC: servo controlled) (9/10)
    2 months ago by GaryLC
    Directory
    (Tug Boat) Anteo Harbour Tug
    My first ever Tug about fifty years ago, and my very first
    steam
    engine hence the super-structure looks a little hacked about, especially the engine housing with globe valves stuck out here and there. this was and still is an amazing kit from Panart, a plank on frame double skinned hull, and all the fittings were brass to a very high quality, (note the anchor winch all brass and it works. The engine and boiler was from Maxwell Hemmings one of the very few manufacturers at the time. (Motor: Piston Valve Twin Cylinder) (ESC: Servo controlled) (10/10)
    2 months ago by GaryLC
    Response
    Paddle Tug Iona - the hull
    Thanks Chris... yeah independent paddle control is very useful for navigating into 'dock'. Your "Loch Ranza" looks pretty good too. These Graupner kits are hard to come by. I like paddle
    steam
    ers as a project, and picked up a part built 'city of Bath' from my local club. Hull & decks complete otherwise I have to build powertrain / superstructure. Planned in for later in the year.
    2 months ago by Harvey Kitten
    Response
    PS Iona - misc fittings
    Thanks for the compliments! it's been a good project, just adding the final touches a couple of days ago. One bonus about paddle
    steam
    ers is they don't usually take on water as the paddle shafts are above the water lineπŸ‘
    2 months ago by Harvey Kitten
    Forum
    tvr
    steam
    engine
    Hi Gary my e-mail is rgroff7@cogeco.ca you can e-mail me and we can figure out . Rick
    2 months ago by Newby7
    Forum
    tvr
    steam
    engine
    Hello all and to Gary I' m looking for the tread size for the ports of the TVR
    steam
    engine are they 1/4 32 or 1/4 40 as I want to order fittings in advance of my building the engine . Rick
    2 months ago by Newby7
    Forum
    tvr
    steam
    engine
    Hi Rick I am having a few problems here trying to manipulate this website, I have read your message asking about an engine flywheel, and I will make one for you as I have the necessary diameter brass bar. your problem is figuring out how I get it to you, let me know how we can accomplish this problem. Regards, Gary.
    2 months ago by GaryLC
    Forum
    Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.
    Thanks Doug, So right for the job, but so expensive, I am trying to use what I have or can get cheaply. As you know I am rubbish with electronics. This is for my latest aquisition, a vintage model paddle
    steam
    er with individual paddle motors and a rudder. The old system of a digimax 4 needs updating. How's the taycol coming on, my first big show is at Easter and I was hoping to include the Sea Commander. Cheers Colin.
    2 months ago by Colin H
    Forum
    tvr
    steam
    engine
    Inspiration, a beautiful thing almost a work of art.
    2 months ago by GaryLC
    Forum
    tvr
    steam
    engine
    Hi Rick, and I am hoping this helps, the inlet and exhaust manifolds on the engine have no fittings included for you to screw onto, the connecting end is just a plain 1/8" brass pipe, so you need to silver-solder your fitting to suit. I have included a photo which hopefully will help. you are going to need some elbows (90* bends) and maybe a Tee piece or two, globe valves and the pipe fittings to put it all together, plus a condenser to collect and separate the exhaust waste
    steam
    . My condenser is simply a piece of 2" brass pipe, I can do you some piping diagrams for you if this helps, or send me a plan of how you are going to connect it all together. The end result will be worth it I promise. Regards, Gary. Hang on in there I have every confidence.
    2 months ago by GaryLC
    Forum
    Being Sociable.
    Hi Gary It is snowing here and I'm hold up thinking of what I will need for my
    steam
    engine assembly. Pipe sizes and fittings and thread sizes and the one thing I forgot to order was the fly wheel so I'm going to order from the site I got the engine from do you know of another spot I might look to get a fly wheel . Rick
    2 months ago by Newby7
    Forum
    RC
    steam
    lever
    Hi Gary I just should have ask you from here what thread size are the ports for the tvr engine are they 1/4 32 or 1/4 40 thread I want to order fittings in advance of the build. Rick
    2 months ago by Newby7
    Forum
    RC
    steam
    lever
    Hello I have a
    steam
    plant to operate my new build but it has a shut off valve I will not be able to control the
    steam
    . The company I purchased the plant from doesn't have an RC valve . Ideas on shops I can search for the RC valve. Rick
    3 months ago by Newby7
    Forum
    Folding Bulwark????!
    HELLO Toby well, I have done a drawing, but, I forgot to label it before I scanned it in - (if you can call it a drawing). You will see I have drawn the hinges in and also the pin that would go through the hinge, you will notice that I have drawn an oblong hole in the end of the pin and this is where a tapered wedge would be driven in to lock it into place when the pin is through the hinge. There is also a chain (the scribbled thing on the top of the tapered wedge) which would be secured to the other end of the bolt to prevent it from being lost. The pins would only be removed from the hinges when the bulwark would need to be removed completed - and - this would be lifted out of place with a ships derrick. As far as handrails go, as far as I can find out, they are located in sockets which are rivetted to the deck and a pin / bolt placed through the bottom of the railing stanchion to secure it into place. Give me a couple of days (I am expecting a couple of books in the post) which are about tramp
    steam
    ers - and - it may give us some more information of what we are looking for. Another book which I find extremely helpful (and you may have it already) is Merchant Ship Construction by H.J. Pursey it doesn't seem to have an ISBN number on this one - it was first published in 1942 :-) good book though - and sometimes it comes up for sale on u know where :-)
    2 months ago by JOHN
    Forum
    RC
    steam
    lever
    Hi Gary I looked at your harbour post pictures your boats look great. Yes after I ordered the parts I thought of a lever oiler combo will order that in the future when I can figure out the piping I will need and yes I can silver solder. Rick
    2 months ago by Newby7
    Forum
    RC
    steam
    lever
    Hi Rick, would you believe it is me yet again, I just thought you might like to check out my Harbour, as I have just put three boats in there, all with
    steam
    engines. Plus I was thinking if I where you which I am not but if I was. you will need to buy an oil lubricator for your engine, and Clevedon
    steam
    has a lubricator with a throttle lever control valve attached to it, this would make a lot of sense. Question, can you silver solder as you will need to fabricate some pipe work? Regards Gary.
    2 months ago by GaryLC
    Directory
    (Other) Lady Ayla
    I decided to build an open
    steam
    -boat to have the boiler and piston valve engine on show, all that polished copper and brass should be on show and not hidden away, this hull is clinker-built to my own design. (Motor: Maxwell Hemmings Caton) (ESC: servo controlled) (9/10)
    2 months ago by GaryLC
    Directory
    (Working Vessel) Danny Boy
    An almost scale version of the real thing, with a gas fired boiler driving a Tvr1 bb, 1/2" bore, twin cylinder, slide valve engine. this utilises an attenuator valve using boiler pressure to conserve both gas and
    steam
    pressure. (ESC: Servo controlled) (10/10)
    2 months ago by GaryLC
    Directory
    (Other) Topaz
    A Victorian/Edwardian
    steam
    launch from the 1800s as sailed on Lake Windermere, this is very similar to a launch called Branksome, which it was copied from. (Motor: Cheddar slide valve) (ESC: servo controlled) (8/10)
    2 months ago by GaryLC
    Blog
    Paddle Tug Iona - the hull
    So... here is a compressed build blog of my paddle tug Iona... and I'm playing catch-up as the vessel is 95% complete and has been sailed already, but there may be some interest in what I've done. Iona was scratch-built off plan and has turned out to be the cheapest build so far out of 3 I've made, mainly because I was able to source materials from the leftovers box! it's a 'mixed-media' boat 😜using traditional methods of plank on frame hull, with paddles made on my 3D printer, and other parts turned on the lathe. So starting with the hull, frames were drawn out, transferred to some scrap 9mm ply and cut out on my bandsaw, along with the keel. These were assembled on a build board with some right angle brackets / measuring tools and test fitted before being stuck in place with epoxy. This was quite difficult as the shape of the hull is critical and comes right at the start of the build. I did remake 1 frame to correct alignment. The deck stringers need to bend in 2 directions, so some
    steam
    ing with a carpet
    steam
    cleaner attached to some tubes worked and the wood clamped in place to dry. Outboard sponsons (?) were fitted to make a frame for the paddle boxes to fit on. Then a large sheet of ply forms the bottom of the hull, and the only job left to complete was the (tedious) planking. This was my 1st plank on frame ship... and it took ages. I think it came out reasonably OK but I'm not a perfectionist and I know if I'd spent more time it could be better... but I didn't! Next blog will feature building the paddle boxes and superstructure.πŸ€“
    2 months ago by Harvey Kitten
    Blog
    PS Iona - misc fittings
    A bit of a miscellany here - the funnel fittings or mounts at the top are 3D printed and the 'rope' is some sort of elastic string used in jewellery making. This... 1) keeps it straight which is difficult with regular string or wire, 2) doesn't get damaged when you catch it with a stray arm, tool, etc. Brass
    steam
    fittings turned on my lathe. The forward hatch was built in case extra ballast was needed, but has had a beneficial side effect. No ballast was needed and the hatch is filled with foam, so I can wedge in a mini tripod and mount a camera up front. Only briefly tested but looks promising The windlass is a kit from mobile marine models. Easy to construct and looks the part. Tow hook 3D printed.
    2 months ago by Harvey Kitten
    Blog
    PS Iona - paddles
    I decided to build the paddles on my 3D printer, working off the plan rather than building in brass as this should be much quicker... should be! Feeling confident I designed ver 1 & printed it out... and scratched my head a lot to see how this was going to fit together. So ver 2 was much better and almost looked like it would work. Ver 3... same etc. Ver 4 πŸ‘ This would assemble looking like paddles. I decided against feathering paddles having talked to a few paddle
    steam
    er builders - it seemed more complicated, used slightly more battery power and in 1:36 scale would make little difference to performance. Having built one now I would probably make a few changes but it looks and performs ok. The assembled paddle is attached to a 4mm stainless steel drive shaft with brass bushes. I have recently added some pins to ensure they don't come loose on the lake.πŸ€“
    2 months ago by Harvey Kitten
    Blog
    Paddle Tug Iona- paddle boxes & superstructure
    Building the paddle boxes was remarkably easy, once the 1mm ply had been
    steam
    ed for bending. I decided to build the boxes first and make sure the paddles fitted inside later, the idea being that all this would come apart for maintenance should it be necessary. (it usually is!). There are few models to be found on the internet to use as reference and hardly any images of the original tug. And to confuse matters, PS Iona also existed as a passenger ship, as well as tug, and looked a bit different. The superstructure is really simple and quick to build, with some more planking! Am liking planking small areas now. The funnels came from some scrap plastic tubing in the garage... just the right diameter too, a lucky find. These will screwed in place from below once I have the other funnel parts made. I plan to run the tug on batteries rather than
    steam
    , as I am a relative novice to model boat building. The whole deck will be fitted with 1mm ply as a base before... more planking! Before all this is glued in place, I thought it best to water test the ship first and see how much ballast I am likely to need.
    2 months ago by Harvey Kitten
    Forum
    RC
    steam
    lever
    Hi Gary Yes I watched the videos great work . I only have a small boiler but should get about 15 mins. run time and yes I'm hoping the eyes hold up the good thing is I can take my time at it. The slide valve timing may be another issue I will have to learn. Will keep you up to date when the engine comes in . Rick
    3 months ago by Newby7
    Forum
    RC
    steam
    lever
    Hi Rick, did you clock the two videos Danish
    steam
    I put on the video section?
    3 months ago by GaryLC


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