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    Blog
    Andrea Gail continued
    Got around to the railings & some of the crane hardware . Haven't done a lot other than wiring up all the electronics had to use a older
    transmitter
    as the newer 2.4 g
    transmitter
    s don't have servo reverse switch's my rudder was backward's . Made up two battery boxes for 5 AA rechargeable batteries to make 6 volts used a holder for 4 & added a single holder for the 5th battery
    1 day ago by GARTH
    Forum
    futaba radio and receivers
    I have been using Futaba 2.4 for years, be aware there are 2 systems, FHSS and FASST, they are not compatible, except with some of the high end
    transmitter
    s which work with both systems. As to other type compatible receivers, i have Corona and Orange, a lot cheaper than Futaba, they do work, but, as Dodgy said, you might lose some range, look for the ones that are surface receivers, 'air' receivers depend on height for there range, also beware of park fly receivers, they are very limited range, park or indoor. It all depends how many channels you need to use. if you need more info give me a shout
    2 days ago by jarvo
    Forum
    Mixing throttle and rudder
    Having read somewhere on this site ( I canโ€™t find it now!) that turning a 34โ€ crash tender at speed can be a problem I have been thinking about ways to Reduce the risk. The obvious way is to pilot it carefully, turning gently, or slowing before turning sharply. But that requires the pilot to be paying attention. Iโ€™m not sure my young grandson would take that care, even if I do. So, is it a good idea to mix throttle and rudder to overcome this issue. It seems to me there are two options: 1. Reduce the rudder throw based on the throttle setting. i.e. mix such that as the speed increases, the maximum rudder throw reduces. Or 2. Reduce the throttle based on the rudder demand. i.e. mix channels so that the boat automatically slows based on the rudder demand. I havenโ€™t found any reference to this on this website, which make me think it isnโ€™t a good idea, but I would be interested in any thoughts from those with much more experience than I have. Also, can these mixes be set up on an fs- i6x
    transmitter
    ?
    6 days ago by Graham93
    Forum
    Motor reversing
    Thanks for the link Fred๐Ÿ‘ First thread I looked at 'Submarines and 2.4GHz' is a timely warning! Read it and you will understand why I have a stock of 40MHz RXs from Standard to Pico versions. And why I bought all the 40Meg crystals I could find locally a few years ago. I also have two MC-10 40Meg
    transmitter
    s plus the 40Meg job that came with my Southampton tug. Southampton is being converted to 2.4Gig leaving that TX free for my subs๐Ÿ˜Š Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž http://www.theassociationofmodelsubmariners.com/t83-openlrs-and-2-4-ghz-and-submarines BTW: I think this should be a good source of 40Meg sets, tailored to submarine use๐Ÿ˜Š, for some time to come. This guy is a specialist who does ONLY sub stuff. https://engel-modellbau.eu/shop/en/home/
    6 days ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Re: Stern Module assembly
    Hi Pete, "I have now purchased my chosen motors. They are MFA 360. ... I wonder if I have to put the usual three suppressors on the motors if running a 40Mhz
    transmitter
    ." Most definitely!! Considering the attenuation of RF signals under water the last thing you want to do is take risks with interference๐Ÿ˜ฎ As the RF signal level falls off when you dive the boat any local interference, i.e. from the motors, will become more significant at the RX input. Re warped stern parts. You could try gently (and I mean gently Bentley!) warming the part (hair dryer?) while weighting it down on a flat surface. You may want to put some shaped wood block supports inside to ensure the part does not bend inwards. Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    13 days ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    Stern Module assembly
    This weekend I decided to do more work on the Gato Submarine. Now I am starting to realise how big this job to build the model is, let alone the WTC which I am thinking about and starting to plan in tandem. I have been working on the stern module today trying to get the rudder and aft planes in a working state. I have followed the video made by a kind soul on the internet which I am finding very helpful. To make them fit properly has resulted in a lot of filing and reshaping particularly on the rudder. All of the edges were interfering all over. After a considerable amount of adjusting, they now fit and work perfectly. A hole was carefully drilled right through the height of the rudder to allow for a shaft to be inserted for operation. Small holes were also drilled through some waste material to produce two running bearings for the rudder shaft. There has had to be a considerable amount of material removal inside the stern module halves to allow for the planes and rudder to work. This was done using a burr in the Dremel and files. Great care was taken not to remove too much and go right through the part. I am having a little problem with warpage of one of the stern halves. You can see the gap between the parts in one of the photographs. It might be that they will glue together without incident if I fix them well with bands during curing. Does anybody have a cunning plan to straighten this part before gluing? I have purchased the propeller shafts and tubes so further work on this module will continue when they arrive, probably towards the end of July. I have now purchased my chosen motors. They are MFA 360. I have also ordered the raw materials to make the motor mount and servo trays. I wonder if I have to put the usual three suppressors on the motors if running a 40Mhz
    transmitter
    . Next time I am going to work on the bow planes. I will have them working and retracting. I bought the gears for the retracting mechanism today but have found them to be too big on diameter to fit two side by side in the bow module. The gears are perfect in every other way so I think I will reduce them to quadrants which should fit nicely. More cad design work for me I think.
    13 days ago by MouldBuilder
    Response
    Re: 34'' Crash Tender
    Yes it was McGregor that produced kits. I still have a 27meg
    transmitter
    and receiver tucked away somewhere. I also have a couple of Elmic rubber driven escapements too [I was aeromodelling in those days].
    28 days ago by swanee
    Forum
    Hintsand tips - Decals made easy
    A really good way to get nice graphics is to order vinyl graphics from a web company called "Callies". Vinyl graphics are much sturdier than decals. They are very understanding of the needs of modelers. They will make whatever you specify for very reasonable charge. You deal with the company by email. You can get images and text; of whatever you need and specify colors, size, font etc. It's almost too good to be true. After you contact them with a request, you will receive an email with a price. They can easily produce replicates, so you can get some spares in case one is damaged or you want to stick some on your
    transmitter
    , boat stand or toolbox. It's a lot easier and cheaper then buying a vinyl cutter and learning how to use it. It might not cost much more than a pack of decal paper.
    29 days ago by Commodore-H
    Wiki
    Basic RC Setup
    NOT from me (RNinMunich)! I just edited it to delete a previous comment of mine! There are many people who are new to radio control, or may have had a model for a while and want to make it electric/remote controlled but don't know where to start. Hopefully I shall explain some basics here. I will start off with a two channel controller. You can get these from hobby shops or other RC shops, you can also buy them (usually a little cheaper) at boat fairs. it may be much better to buy a new one at first so that you get most of the RC parts in the same box as a complete set. Most
    transmitter
    /receiver sets such as Hitec or Futaba include the
    transmitter
    , receiver, the batteries to go with them and servo's. The style of
    transmitter
    is seen here showing the control layout. The channels match up on the receiver and the corresponding equipment should be plugged into it. The wiring can be fairly easy to setup by just following the diagram shown below, providing the speed control has B.E.C. (Battery Elimination Circuit) you will not need the separate battery for the receiver. It is advisable that you incorporate a switch and a fuse in either wire coming off the battery. This will reduce the risk of future smoking electrics if things go wrong! ๐Ÿ˜Š
    1 month ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Can anyone help please?
    I have just fitted the rudder servo and connecting rods and tested them with the radio without problem. I was about to install the motor and speed controller in the hull and connected all up to test. I connected the servo and Moronic Hydra 50 G2 speed controller to the receiver, then connected the brushless motor and lipo battery, all correct colour to colour as I have done several times before, turned on the
    transmitter
    then the speed controller and the speed controller went up in smoke!!! The only uncertain connection was which way round the cables connected to the servo, again I have connected these before and changing direction of fit makes them operate if they are the wrong way round. I suspect the speed controller is ruined now as the whole system is lifeless. Can anyone offer some advice please....and how do I get rid of the smell? !!!!
    1 month ago by Brianaro
    Directory
    34'' Crash Tender
    Here is my Crash Tender together with the homemade 27MHz
    transmitter
    . Built in the early 1970s. The collage photo is from 45 years ago, sailing on the boating lake in Llanfairfechan, North Wales. Recently rescued from the garage covered in dust. Diesel replaced with brushless motor and on the water again. Now in dry dock for a major refit!
    1 month ago by Graham93
    Directory
    Puffer
    Built from Mountfleet kit. Chain drive operates Rudder . Puffer sound, whistle, smoke generator, working lights Navigation and interior also flickering orange and red for boiler fire.all switched from
    transmitter
    .
    1 month ago by Elsrickle
    Forum
    Help and advice please
    Hi JB, Comes from 30 odd years of designing COMMS systems for naval vessels, including submarines. Did several surveys of submarines for refit designs. At 6'2" I'm not built for working on subs, kept bangin' me 'ead! ๐Ÿ’ฅ๐Ÿ˜ญ๐Ÿค• Martin, whales have the advantage that they are transmitting directly into water, where sound travels about 4 times faster than in air at sea level. And they can do this mechanically, process still not fully understood, at very low frequencies from around 2Hz to 100Hz mostly. Hence the long ranges achieved. Up to maybe 24kHz for short range echolocation - nosh hunting!๐Ÿ˜œ Interestingly, spectrum analysis of Humpback whale sounds shows an FM type structure with pulsed modulation. Just like our FM RC
    transmitter
    s! ๐Ÿ˜ฎ We have to transmit first through the air, for several thousand kilometres in some cases, and then have enough energy left to penetrate down a hundred metres or so. We have to do this electrically, hence long antennas. Wavelength = Speed of light / frequency in Hertz! Do the math - it's a long chunka wire!๐Ÿ˜ฎ Halfwave at 8kHz ~18.75km. Happy whale listening folks,๐Ÿ˜Ž PS; JB, you can always use the antenna for a spot of fly fishing - while waiting for your sub to come up again!๐Ÿ˜ฎ
    1 month ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Help and advice please
    As Doug said, ditch the AM radio, prone to just about any interference these days. This is pre FM (which better and is still used by some in more remote interference free locations but is still prone to interference, plus you need to change frequencies TX and RX) with both of these sets if another person is using the frequency you have). This means either waiting for a frequency to become free (and making sure no one is on your frequency so you don't destroy someones model) or having a number of pairs of frequency crystals to change to, plus having to use a frequency peg board at clubs. Buy a modern 4 or 6 channel
    transmitter
    on 2.4G and you won't have to worry about all of that. 27Mhz -on (AM) 40Mhz -on(FM) is 40 yr old technology really
    1 month ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Help and advice please
    Hello again, I was donated this
    transmitter
    and wondered if it would be any good and can i get a receiver to match it. I have no idea how to know which is receiver is compatible. Thanks Gren
    1 month ago by Gren-York
    Forum
    Help and advice please
    Excellent suggestion TG ๐Ÿ‘ I use the German branded version of this system and it works perfectly. You only have to first dump or overwrite all the default aircraft/heli presets! Gren: dump the 27MHz receiver. Your chances of finding a matching
    transmitter
    are remote. And the 27MHz band is prone to severe interference anyway ๐Ÿค” Cheers, Doug Oh! BTW: Welcome aboard ๐Ÿ‘
    1 month ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Help and advice please
    Here is a new
    transmitter
    and receiver that will work for you. It has a few extra channels that you dont need. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Flysky-FS-i6X-2-4G-6CH-RC-
    transmitter
    -With-FS-iA6B-RX-for-RC-Car-Boat-in-stock/292884688293?hash=item443149ada5:g:8jMAAOSwclxcuT5z
    1 month ago by tgilchristjr
    Forum
    Help and advice please
    I run sailboats all the time. For the battery pack you can use a 6v hump pack. Here is one with a charger. (you dont need the switch)( I'm in the US so I dont use the UK Ebay site much. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Modelsport-UK-6v-Receiver-Battery-and-Charger-Pack-Hump-Pack-MSRXNP/253828164657?hash=item3b19566c31:g:s88AAOSwAlJbfoYD For the
    transmitter
    , there are 2 ways to go. 1st is to use the existing older frequency receiver that you have and try to find a compatible
    transmitter
    , or just get a new
    transmitter
    and receiver combo.
    1 month ago by tgilchristjr
    Directory
    (Working Vessel) Mowe 2
    I hadn't build a RC model for over 45 years, so as a 60th Birthday present my wife bought me this Aeronaut Mowe 2 kit, complete with all the RC equipment; motor, servo,
    transmitter
    and receiver, ESC unit etc. It was a great kit to build and took me about 3 months from start to finish. The hull was a bit tricky, but a tube of P38 and lots of sanding, re-filling with light balsa filler, re-sanding, finishing and painting and patience won through! Not a brilliant finish, but an ideal boat to get my hand back-in to modelling. When sailing, the boat needed a bit of ballast in the form of 2 old AA batteries in the bow to keep it stable and level in the water at speed! (ESC: Aeronaut) (8/10)
    5 months ago by StuartE
    Forum
    Abergavenny steam and vintage show.
    Hi Colin . would be quite reluctant to admit how many half finished boats I possess - shall we say quite a few, at present there are about 15 completed that are still with me . Gave my grandson a large Ripmax speed boat - loves it but restricted to their swimming pool which is a bit small. (lots of home pools in SA). Making up a kit from a Graham Goodchild design to build with him when he visits in August. - easy and a more appropriate size. Tried to get my son interested but he was among the first of the IT generation - so computers got him to the extent its now his life's work. Did not help when aged about seven he fell into the harbour at our clubs dam whilst running my Rhodesian Patrol Boat - very proud of not getting the
    transmitter
    wet - but embarrassed and seemingly lost interest after that. Now he is a lot older and moving with work to Seattle it might be easier to get him interested as its got a lot of sailing places around............. Saddest loss was a boat given by an old friend of the family - an aluminum hulled motor yacht driven by a Taycol "Star" via the then usual 4 1/2 volt cycle lamp battery. Saw the same hull on Ebay also with a Star fitted some years ago but was unable to come up with the 50 odd quid they wanted. Think it possibly could have been a Basset Lowke yacht hull available in those long ago days , to fit out with your own deck & superstructure as our old friend did.
    2 months ago by redpmg
    Forum
    Fairmile c class maiden voyage
    hi there Chewi having read through your postings and watching your video - I am not sure if you have the ACTion P94 set up correctly. You should be able to spin that model round on the spot as the P94 contains a rudder motor mixer built into it. However, be warned, the P94 doesnt like certain 2.4
    transmitter
    sets. Basically, you have to set your
    transmitter
    back to zero manufacture settings with no mixing at all on your
    transmitter
    to get it working - and - its all done in the ESC - I have built several triple screw vessels myself - the RAF63and the MTBs and basically what I used to do there is use the old Electronize speed controllers from the 90s which dont have the pre-programmed chips in them so that I could switch the signal on and off to the speed controller, thus allowing me to control the centre prop by switching the signal off and on. So, when I wanted speed I ran on all 3 props but when I wanted to manouvre I switched the centre prop off and allowed the 2 outboard motors to spin the vessel with the rudders, using mixers. In this particular model - I would ditch the gelcel battery and go for a Ni-MH battery and the 9.6 volt 500 mAh - 3 of these batteries one for each motor should give you ample run time. John
    2 months ago by JOHN
    Forum
    Motor forward and reverse
    I am seeking some help with the electrical setup for my new Dusseldorf project. The model, when completed, will use 15 channels to operate fully. I am using a Frsky Taranis Plus
    transmitter
    with the x8r receiver. I have purchased two frsky sbus 4 channel decoders which will give me the required channels. I have most things covered, I think, but am a little stuck on what module I will need to make the small geared motors work in forward and reverse on one channel. I have a lot of the Turnigy rc switches to operate most of the functions but these will not give forward and reverse options. I have been thinking that I should have the main items such as rudder, throttle and lights etc operating through sbus on channels one to eight and the more difficult functions, such as the crane lift and lower and the anchor up and down, directly through the receiver on channels nine to 16. I think my problem with the lift and lower (reversing motor direction) might be solved this way by using the on off on switches, several of which are on the
    transmitter
    . I would love to hear what those who have experience of multiple channel usage think and possibly if there is a module that I could connect through sbus to give the forward and reverse option I seek. Thanks. Peter.
    2 months ago by MouldBuilder
    Forum
    R/C Boat for Sale
    For Sale:Rc Model Boat Sea Rover Red & White, wooden deck, 76cm x 25cm, Never used. Condition is New. New Saturn 2.4 Ghz radio
    transmitter
    & receiver included. Viper Marine 25 speed controller & motor included. Will need own battery supply. Buyer to collect.ยฃ250
    2 months ago by Jimbob901
    Blog
    Conclusion.
    I must say that I have really enjoyed building the Aeronaut Pilot Boat. The kit is well detailed and has a certain level of difficulty that suits me at the moment. This is the first project I have completed in 35 years. Boat projects that is. During the build I did encounter a few problems which, in my opinion, could be put right by Aeronaut. The first was the fitting of the skins. The laser cut parts had no extra material to aid fitting. They were difficult enough to fit but with no margin for error at all, I was losing the will to live. I had failure after failure and considering each attempt had to be temporarily set in position with tape, days and days went by. Finally, I managed to get them into the best position I could and stuck them down. I think I managed 95% good with about 5% I had to deal with later on. Most of any error is covered by the rubbing strake.๐Ÿ˜ Another problem is the connections for the two rudders. Fortunately, I noticed the issue early on so devised a repair before a problem was encountered. The instructions, and the parts themselves, were fitted with the screws facing towards the transom. Once the deck was glued into place the screws could not be reached. I redesigned the actuating mechanism so that the screws were facing forwards. They are still difficult to get at, but with a long Allen key it is possible. Getting all of the electrics working as I wanted was also a challenge. I could not find a way to programme three switches to operate on three channels. There is a way, so I understand, by using mixes on the
    transmitter
    . I looked everywhere for information on this site and others. I found nothing except everybody was saying that the ER9X firmware was the way forward. There was no way to update the Turnigy Tx I have so I found the perfect solution in the Turnigy 9X Pro
    transmitter
    with a frsky module. For ยฃ90 this is some piece of kit. I have programmed the three switches with ease and everything works well. One issue I have had and really would like some help with for future projects, is the connection of all of the wires from the removable cabin. I have used some rather large nine pin connectors and eight strand alarm cable. These can be seen in an earlier post. Does anybody know of where I can get much smaller multi pin connectors? For my next project, the Robbe/Krick Dusseldorf, I am considering nine pin DIN sockets. That concludes this build. I think a name might look nice on the side of the hull to break up the full colour. I will see what I can find. I would recommend this kit to those with a little experience. I think it is a little complex for a first build but who knows. Thanks for reading the blog and a special thanks to all of those who have offered valuable help at every stage, so until the next one, Happy Building. Peter.๐Ÿ˜Š
    2 months ago by MouldBuilder
    Forum
    Brushed to Brushless upgrade
    ".....brushless motors the main question is speed controller as I would need forward and reverse...." Simple answer. You can get reversible brushless ESCs. However, watch out, as boats are a minority interest and many cheap reversible brushless ESCs are designed for car use. These may have a 'braking' feature, which means that the controls work like this: forward stick = forward backward stick = motor braked quick forward and backward again = motor goes in reverse which is optimum for cars, but cumbersome for boats. A proper boat designed brushless ESC will be fine, as will be a cheap car one where you can turn off the 'brake'. RNinMunich recommends the Quicrun series of Chinese brushless ESCs, but of course products change all the time. So check that the ESC you are after is reversible, and has a 'no-brake' setting.... Rather more complex background explanation. This is my understanding of how one particular 'brushless' system works - there may well be other technologies out there... : 'Commutation' is the process of switching each coil in an electric motor on at the right time to get attracted to the nearest magnet and off when it passes the magnet, so that the armature will rotate in one direction. In a brushed motor this happens mechanically, and we don't need to worry about it. If you want to know a bit more, get a Taycol motor and start reading papers like this: http://what-when-how.com/electric-motors/commutation-electric-motors/ In a brushless motor, commutation is done by software inside the ESC. So the ESC is essential to a brushless motor - it won't run without one. What the software in a brushless ESC does is start the motor with a pre-programmed series of activations of coils. Once spinning, the software detects the generated back-emf as a magnet passes each coil, and uses this to work out the motor speed, timing, and hence which coils to activate next, depending on the throttle signal. Obviously, this happens very fast. If the motor went round slowly, the generated back-emf would be very low, and the ESC would have difficulty detecting it. So a typical brushless motor has a minimum speed which is quite high compared to a brushed motor. In a sensor motor, the ESC can be much more precise about timing because it reads it off the Hall-effect sensor. It can also run at much slower speeds. But the extra kit, and the low production levels mean that these are going to be more expensive motors. For a brushless ESC the starting process, and the reversing process, are much more complicated than they are in a brushed motor. In each case the software has to try to detect what the motor is doing and adjust the timing to get it running in the right direction 'blind', with possibly odd feedback from the coil back EMF. For a brushed motor, the ESC just reverses the polarity and the mechanical commutation automatically applies a force in the direction you want. The result is that brushless starts can be a bit jerky, and brushless reverses need 'setting up' with a process of signalling from your
    transmitter
    or using a program card. Since cheap brushless ESCs are often turned out with little documentation, making them reverse can sometimes be difficult for an inexperienced purchaser.
    2 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    Ace Nautical Commander
    Dodgy - thanks for that - might just sell the Ace on Ebay - buy a cheap 2.4 and convert that. Was the article continued or not ? Noticed the make of the converted
    transmitter
    is not given .
    2 months ago by redpmg
    Forum
    Ace Nautical Commander
    The real benefit of this radio is the twin sticks - dont find those too often. Only one I know of is the very expensive German F14
    transmitter
    . No market for this here - be different in UK Only one fellow in SA repairs radios that I know of , so will try and contact him if no joy via the forum. Electronics engineer friend who could have handled conversion now living in the land of Oz! If I tried there would be big fat smoke signals.............
    2 months ago by redpmg
    Forum
    Ace Nautical Commander
    It might be a shame to alter the innards of such a radio - vintage radios like this make a lot of money if sold in original condition. See https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2980389-ACE-Nautical-Commander-7-ch-NIB-AND-FOR-SALE-AGAIN Perhaps $200? To convert it to 2.4Ghz you would have to obtain a 2.4Ghz
    transmitter
    module. If you can do that, you can probably obtain a full 2.4Ghz combo and use that radio if interference is the primary issue. To convert you need to obtain a radio module, and then find the position in your
    transmitter
    where the signal is passed to the RF section. You then connect Vcc, GND and Signal to the new 2.4Ghz module. Some radios have a separate RF board, making this part easy, but if not you will need some way to find the bit to connect....
    2 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    Motor, speed controller
    All got off ebay. The drone boys use this sort of thing extensively. Go there and google the items below. I have added approximate current prices - but I can recall getting some items considerably cheaper.... FPV Mini Digital Video Camera - about ยฃ6 Eachine RC832 Boscam 5.8G 48CH FPV Receiver Combo - 5.8Ghz Tx and Rx - about ยฃ14.80 7 inch Professional FPV Aerial Photography Monitor For Ground Station - about ยฃ17.50 FPV-Pro-DVR-Mini-Video-Audio-Recorder - about ยฃ11.30 Plastic-FPV-PT-Pan-Tilt-Camera-Platform - 99p! I also got an extra stick - about ยฃ10, a nice plastic box - about ยฃ25(!), and various connectors, switches, etc. The box contains a gel battery for the video, which can power the main R/C
    transmitter
    down the connector line - that's what the buttons and voltmeter on the panel are for... Note that the video
    transmitter
    runs hot - most of them seem to - which is fine on a drone, but thermal control needs some consideration on a boat. You can see a little heat-sink that I added.... P.S. Oh, and you'll need to arrange a 180 deg servo for the panning... P.P.S. You might want to consider a clover-leaf aerial. That enables what they call 'circular polarity' transmission, which is really useful for drones when the transmitting aerial is performing contortions in the air. For boats, a vertical aerial pumping out vertically-polarised waves may suffer from 'bounce' off the water surface, which turns the reflected waves horizontal. But these are very cheap anyway, and can be experimented with - a bit like different propellers...
    3 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Blog
    Shipping and first trial.
    I decided that I would send the hull via UPS in a secured box with other items. I packed the superstructure in the second box made earlier and took this as hand luggage with me to Budapest. This proved to be almost totally successful except for some minor damage to deck hand rails on the hull which was not totally unexpected. A minor repair is required but will wait until my return in the Summer.๐Ÿ˜ I have attached a couple of pictures of the large box taken as I was unpacking it. I spent a couple of days doing final adjustments, fitting the props and fine tuning the
    transmitter
    set up. Then came the time to trial. Just as I was about to set off to the river. the wind picked up and the water surface became unsuitable for a trial especially as the recovery boat was unavailable. I decided to delay until the next day. The conditions the following day were perfect. I fitted the 2s 3300 Lipo and turned on the power. Next was to place the boat in the river and pray. The test went perfectly and I was very pleased. I have noted that the bow seems a little low in the water when not under power. Strange as all of the operating systems are towards the stern. Under power, this improves greatly and when on full power it looks perfect. I think I might moved the battery towards the stern slightly to see if there is an improvement. Later in the day, I had a second trial to check the effectiveness of the lighting. This was good as well but it would be nice if the blue flashing light was a little brighter. My last post on this series will follow soon with my thoughts on the model and the problems which have been encountered. I have taken a short video of both trials which I will upload soon.
    3 months ago by MouldBuilder
    Forum
    Turnigy Standard 9x
    transmitter
    Hello all. I hope you can help me before I lose all of my hair. I recently purchased a Turnigy 9x set which, according to all of the reviews I have seen, is good value for money. I am sure that they are all right but you need to be a genius to understand the instructions. Everything is in short hand. I am fairly new to the latest radios but I can read. This is not good. The internet has been invaluable and I have found a good instruction book for the Flysky 9x which appears to be the same. I have now got through the basics but I am having a problem achieving what I bought it for in the first place. My latest build, a Pilot boat, has been wired such that I need to use three channels to operate rc switches. I would like to use channels 5, 6 and 7. I have found that I can set 5 to gear which gives me one switch, another can go to throttle something to give me two switches, but the other choices go to trimmers only. After reading bloggs it seems that I can get a third switch working on, say, channel 7, but have to alter mix settings. I am completely lost now and wondered if anybody could instruct me as to how to get this third switch to operate on channel seven. Thank you.๐Ÿ˜Š
    5 months ago by MouldBuilder
    Forum
    transmitter
    Mode 2
    Newbie question. I am going to buy a FlySky FS-i6 and want a spring loaded throttle on left and spring loaded rudder on right. Do I get this if I buy mode 2. ie will it be spring loaded. Chose this brand as I understand it and use it on my sailboat. My sailboat
    transmitter
    is not spring loaded on left as it pulls the sheets on and is then left alone.
    4 months ago by juskiddin
    Response
    Re: Maxton modified wooden ornament
    Hi! Doug no the esc is not home brew, it was from ebay. "RC ESC 20A Brush Motor Speed Controller w/ Brake for RC Car Boat Tank" for ยฃ3.37 works well and as far as the interference suppression with capacitors; no I don't find any need for them now I'm on 2.4ghz. All my models work from the one 6 channel
    transmitter
    , and none of them have any suppressors on, although they are all brushed motors. Never had any problems. I don't do submarines so have no need for 40Mhz or 27 Mhz. I like to keep things simple!
    4 months ago by 4clubs
    Forum
    transmitter
    Mode 2
    I think you can buy kits to spring load the second stick on certain
    transmitter
    s
    4 months ago by Hillro
    Forum
    transmitter
    information
    It's the binding plug. You have to bind the receiver to its
    transmitter
    with that plug in using the instructions that should have been supplied with the kit. With your description, I would say it's an Frsky or Flsky system, as that is just what you described. Check out binding on you tube with your brand of Tx/Rx. Best wishes, Dave W ๐Ÿ‘
    4 months ago by rolfman2000
    Wiki
    2.4ghz TX/Radio
    2.4Ghz TX/Radio combo With the introduction of the 2.4 Ghz Radios the 27Mhz and the 40Mhz systems will soon become obsolete, they are however the only ones suitable for underwater submarine use as the 2.4Ghz will not transmit under water. With the 2.4Ghz system you can forget about wrong crystals; or is somebody on your frequency; dual conversion; incompatibility of some crystals on some radios; interference etc etc. need I go on. The first 2.4Ghz systems were expensive but now a
    transmitter
    and radio can be bought for just under ยฃ30 there seems to be no point in hanging on to your old 27 and 40 Mhz Radios.... START to update for a hassle free life. Additional receivers are only ยฃ10. It seems that the Planet and RadioLink are no longer readily available. FlySky are a suitable in-expensive alternative but are not compatible with Planet or RadioLink. A simple,one off binding process for your first time use and your set is tuned to just your
    transmitter
    . You can use just one
    transmitter
    and have all your boats fitted with receivers which will only receive signals from your one
    transmitter
    . Should you for any reason want to add or change your
    transmitter
    for the same type you can simple re- bind your receivers again to match your new
    transmitter
    SIMPLE !!!! If you do have a rather expensive 40Mhz
    transmitter
    it is possible to purchase an adaption kit to 2.4Ghz and still retain your
    transmitter
    , 2.4Ghz 4 to 6 channel receivers can be purchased for as little as ยฃ10 to match the modified
    transmitter
    .
    4 months ago by 4clubs
    Blog
    Nearly there.
    I have had a good run lately being able to spend a whole day per week on the Pilot Boat. The wiring and both of the circuit boards are now completed and working. I have experienced a small problem though. I have a Turnigy 9x
    transmitter
    with eight usable channels but however I configure it, I can only get two of the seven switches connected to channels. I have seen on youtube that by using mixes, more switches can be programmed. So far I have not found out how. There is lots of information for the er9x update but not the standard 9x. For now I will connect two channels to one Tx switch. I have now been busy fitting the deck out. I should complete this tomorrow after which all that remains is to finish painting the cabin seats and tables and fit them. I hope to have it on the river in three weeks time. I will place the final build update before I go. I will probable leave the deck handrails off until it has been transported. Until then, if anyone can help with the mixes problem on my 9x, it would be very much appreciated.๐Ÿ˜‰
    4 months ago by MouldBuilder
    Wiki
    Basic RC Setup
    DRAFT: TO BE REVISED AND UPDATED SHORTLY!! (RN) There are many people who are new to radio control, or may have had a model for a while and want to make it electric/remote controlled but don't know where to start. Hopefully I shall explain some basics here. I will start off with a two channel controller. You can get these from hobby shops or other RC shops, you can also buy them (usually a little cheaper) at boat fairs. it may be much better to buy a new one at first so that you get most of the RC parts in the same box as a complete set. Most
    transmitter
    /receiver sets such as Hitec or Futaba include the
    transmitter
    , receiver, the batteries to go with them and servo's. The style of
    transmitter
    is seen here showing the control layout. The channels match up on the receiver and the corresponding equipment should be plugged into it. The wiring can be fairly easy to setup by just following the diagram shown below, providing the speed control has B.E.C. (Battery Elimination Circuit) you will not need the separate battery for the receiver. It is advisable that you incorporate a switch and a fuse in either wire coming off the battery. This will reduce the risk of future smoking electrics if things go wrong! ๐Ÿ˜Š
    4 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Turnigy Standard 9x
    transmitter
    Peter,here i put photos of simple servo switch., constructed by Petr Hajek (ufon 13).I use the same switch for switching sound modules (siren + foghorn) Channel 2 in my model ps Lulonga. I do not know why you are not using channel 3 (throttle) to control the engine via ESC.... Regards Tom ๐Ÿ˜Š
    5 months ago by tomarack
    Forum
    Turnigy Standard 9x
    transmitter
    I have now connected the batteries and entered into the Aux channel mode on the TX. I have set gear to channel 5 and throttle hold to channel 6. Two of my lighting circuits now work perfectly using the gear switch and the throttle cut switch on the Tx. I just need one more to enable the third circuit to light. there are still two or three two position switches available to use but are not supported in the Aux channel menu. I am told that they can be used by altering the mix menu but I am afraid this goes beyond me at this time. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Regards, Peter.๐Ÿ˜Š
    5 months ago by MouldBuilder
    Forum
    Turnigy Standard 9x
    transmitter
    Thanks Tom. I think I can choose between five items for each of channel 5 to 9. Two I believe, Gear and one of the others, are controlled by on/off switches on the Tx. The others are routed via potentiometers. There is, apparently, a way of changing one of these choices to be operated by a third switch using `mix` settings but I have no idea as to how. I will try to get my LED`s working on the two switches that are available through the Turnigy rc switches I have wired to channels 5 and 6 on the receiver. I will post how I get on.๐Ÿ˜Š
    5 months ago by MouldBuilder
    Forum
    Turnigy Standard 9x
    transmitter
    Hi, As I see, there is a problem. The basic question is - what you need to control, and the other - whether this type of RC kit will allow this. Especially .. this type is mainly designed for aircraft control. You need to choose compromises to control the ship model. This type does not allow simple switching of functions - only by means of another switching module, or by means of end switches on the modified servo. in the base allows only proportional control of servos or ESC. There are RC sets, that have switching functions, such as Graupner - e.g. Graupner mc-20 12-Channel HoTT but these are far more expensive... The basic wiring is the 3rd throttle for engine control (ESC), channel 4 for control of the rudder. there is a possibility to use channels 1 and 2 for switching the added end switches but it is not possible to switch them permanently (perhaps with the help of the added relay)-. channel 5 can be used - setting> AUX> GYR> PIT TRIM - (rotary potentiometer control.) similarly channel # 7. AUX settings> HOV THRO Channel No 8 - AUX Settings> HOV PIT Operate again using rotary potentiometers - see function descriptions. These channels again allow only proportional control. Switching can be done (maybe) using channel # 6 settings >AUX>FLP> Gear ON/OFF (I did not try this) It is good to get familiar with the setting of the individual elements and check this on the display for the test (without the connection of the receiver !!) before you all plug in the model. I hope it helped you a little bit.. Tom
    5 months ago by tomarack
    Forum
    What type of antenna is this?
    The wire aerial running between the masts is what radio hams call an inverted L, it is tuned against the hull of the boat and the seawater and unlike a half wave dipole it only needs to be a quarter wave long, or less with a loading coil and an aerial tuning unit, often built into the
    transmitter
    . Common on many fishing boats in the days of the Trawler band, which is the frequency band a bit above medium wave. Trawler Band was also nicknamed FishFone.If you mean the loop aerial on the wheelhouse, that is a Radio Direction Finder Aerial which became very popular just after WW11. This information comes to you courtesy of my Radio Ham partner.
    5 months ago by Nerys
    Forum
    Robbie Estelle Yacht
    This model is complete with Futaba receiver so would require a compatible
    transmitter
    . Good condition and sails well in stiff winds. Personal pickup only due to size. ยฃ150
    5 months ago by Rockbag
    Forum
    Slightly confused newbie
    Whilst I am not new to boat modelling, I am new to r/c and Iโ€™m confused about an issue I have. You can see the setup in the images. Everything works fine, and testing the boat on the pond; I was very pleased how she ran. The issue is this: if I set the trim switch (bottom right on
    transmitter
    image) to reverse, the rudder works normally. If I set it to Normal, it is reversed. If I set the throttle trim switch to normal, the throttle is reversed, and if I switch it reverse, the motor runs a full throttle, with the joystick in the neutral position! All the other trim controls are in the neutral position, as in the image. I have double checked all the wiring, and would really appreciate some help on what I am doing wrong.
    5 months ago by J Barry
    Forum
    Slightly confused newbie
    Doug, you were quite right. Mtroniks have sent me a new ESC, with no explanantion, but it works in exactly the same way as the previous one, as you said it would. So, I shall ignore the settings on the
    transmitter
    and just enjoy the boat! A lesson has been learned...... Thanks to everyone for their valued input. ๐Ÿ‘
    5 months ago by J Barry
    Blog
    Electrics in the cabin
    Progress on the main build is slowed at the moment so that I can complete the electrical installation. I have decided to route all of the wires inside of the original outer sleeve. I have removed the wires and replaced only the ones I need. I have stuck them to the inside walls as I do not like them hanging everywhere. Perhaps they look a little like insulated pipes, at least that is what I tell myself. I have terminated all of the wires into two 9 pin connectors. These will then connect directly into a small ABS enclosure where I have a flasher circuit and a pcb with all of the resistors for the LED`s. I have wired in this manner so that all I need to do to completely remove the cabin is to disconnect the two connectors.All of the remaining circuits can remain in the hull. A little more work is required in the hull to fit and wire the switches to operate the equipment from other switches on the
    transmitter
    .๐Ÿ˜Š
    5 months ago by MouldBuilder
    Forum
    Richardson/Southampton Smoke Generator
    Hey, Ed: I noticed in one of your post about this topic you mentioned: โ€œPS. When you use the smoker. Don't let it dry out. You'll burn the coil! Just keep track of it! And have fun!!!โ€ When you say โ€œwhen you [I] use the smokerโ€, I need to point out that I donโ€™t have any control over it, as such. I canโ€™t turn it โ€œonโ€ or โ€œoffโ€; smoke is automatically generated whenever the
    transmitter
    throttle is pushed forward or reverse. According to Hobby Engineโ€™s response to my email: โ€œsmoke will be generated automatically when the boat runsโ€. Based on what youโ€™re saying, Ed, which makes perfect sense to me, if my boat runs out of smoke liquid I should get it to shore a.s.a.p. because the there is a strong possibility that the smoke heating coil could burn out. it would be sort of like letting all of the water boil out of the pan on the stove; as soon as the water boils away the pot will weld itself to the stove top pretty quickly! All of this gives me an idea. I think Iโ€™ll install an โ€œon-offโ€ switch for the smoke system blower & smoke oil heater. Thereโ€™s more than enough room to add a switch on the deckhouse floor (close to the tugโ€™s main power switch). This would be helpful for maintenance work, too. I wouldnโ€™t necessarily want smoke coming out of the stacks when Iโ€™ve got the boat indoors on the bench & I want to run the motors after shaft oiling or something. My โ€œto doโ€ list keeps growing!! Pete
    5 months ago by PittsfieldPete
    Forum
    Slightly confused newbie
    Hi John, regarding the rudder, the 'Normal' and 'Reversed' designations are purely arbitrary. If you put a servo arm in one position on the servo, then remove it and place it at 180 degrees to the original position, the servo is reversed with respect to the original position. Try it with a spare servo and servo arm. The Normal/Reverse options on the
    transmitter
    are only there to allow for variations in servo to servo arm location variations. The 'Normal' designation is somewhat misleading. As far as the ESC goes, that is sorted by programming the ESC. That's my 2.7p worth. (5 cents Australian) Cheers, Terry
    5 months ago by terrymiff
    Forum
    Slightly confused newbie
    hi ya, I have just been reading up on your
    transmitter
    and it looks as though your
    transmitter
    was originally made for cars but it doesn't make any difference. Apparentlyit is a 2 channel
    transmitter
    which is supplied with a 3 channel receiver. Therefore when you plug the speed controller into channel 3, it isn't going to work. So the way you originally had it set up is the only way to get it working unless you go for a different
    transmitter
    . What is the range of these
    transmitter
    s? because I have one myself which is a Planet 2.4 Advance T5 and its got an extremely short range because its called a park flyer - I am wondering if yours will be the same just for curiosity. Best of luck. John
    5 months ago by JOHN


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