Forum

Standard 9x transmitter

Hello all. I hope you can help me before I lose all of my hair. I recently purchased a 9x set which, according to all of the reviews I have seen, is good value for money. I am sure that they are all right but you need to be a genius to understand the instructions. Everything is in short hand. I am fairly new to the latest radios but I can read. This is not good. The internet has been invaluable and I have found a good instruction book for the Flysky 9x which appears to be the same. I have now got through the basics but I am having a problem achieving what I bought it for in the first place. My latest build, a Pilot boat, has been wired such that I need to use three channels to operate rc switches. I would like to use channels 5, 6 and 7. I have found that I can set 5 to gear which gives me one switch, another can go to throttle something to give me two switches, but the other choices go to trimmers only. After reading bloggs it seems that I can get a third switch working on, say, channel 7, but have to alter mix settings. I am completely lost now and wondered if anybody could instruct me as to how to get this third switch to operate on channel seven. Thank you.😊

5 years ago by MouldBuilder

Response

Basic hull construction completed

Hi Stuart - I have a Huntress which is the same length as your Huntsman which was built by Dave M. it will be a little lighter as it doesn't have an aft cabin. it is fitted with a D2836/11 750kV so the one recommended to you is a good choice. Chris

5 years ago by ChrisF

Blog

Cooling the motor – update.

I’m grateful to mturpin013 for commenting that he considered using the propeller adaptor supplied with the motor as it prompted me to retrieve mine from the box and adapt it to secure the fan on the end of the motor. I cut off the threaded shaft from the prop adaptor and the end was ground flat and then I placed it on the end of the motor stub and used a scriber through the bolt holes to mark the positions on the flange of the fan. The fan was then removed and the holes drilled through and opened up to 3mm and then it was a simple matter to put the fan back on the motor and attach the new piece to the motor using the three 2.5mm cap head screws which are supplied with the prop adaptor. I think this is a far better ‘engineering’ solution to securing the fan to the rotor than a spot of CA. Because the addition of the fan was so straightforward and effective I have decided to implement it on the model anyway so I cut an opening through the end panel of the motor cover and put some stainless steel mesh over that to finish it. The motor is now connected to the ESC and I have done some tests with the motor running and I’m delighted to report that there’s a very healthy airflow through the motor cover 😁👍. It turns out that my modification is not unique at all and credit is due to reilly4 who did something similar to the twin motors on one of his boats long before I came up with the idea. He posted a ‘photo of his boat when replying to mturpin013 on the subject of servo mounts. Take a look at the motors in his picture!

5 years ago by robbob

Response

Brave Borderer

Hi Would you please post how you set it up please. I have both the Flysky and units(same thing only a name change) and would like to add this into a plan build. Canabus

5 years ago by canabus

Forum

Standard 9x transmitter

Peter,here i put photos of simple servo switch., constructed by Petr Hajek (ufon 13).I use the same switch for switching sound modules (siren + foghorn) Channel 2 in my model ps Lulonga. I do not know why you are not using channel 3 (throttle) to control the engine via ESC.... Regards Tom 😊

5 years ago by tomarack

Forum

Standard 9x transmitter

I have now connected the batteries and entered into the Aux channel mode on the TX. I have set gear to channel 5 and throttle hold to channel 6. Two of my lighting circuits now work perfectly using the gear switch and the throttle cut switch on the Tx. I just need one more to enable the third circuit to light. there are still two or three two position switches available to use but are not supported in the Aux channel menu. I am told that they can be used by altering the mix menu but I am afraid this goes beyond me at this time. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Regards, Peter.😊

5 years ago by MouldBuilder

Forum

Standard 9x transmitter

Thanks Tom. I think I can choose between five items for each of channel 5 to 9. Two I believe, Gear and one of the others, are controlled by on/off switches on the Tx. The others are routed via potentiometers. There is, apparently, a way of changing one of these choices to be operated by a third switch using `mix` settings but I have no idea as to how. I will try to get my LED`s working on the two switches that are available through the rc switches I have wired to channels 5 and 6 on the receiver. I will post how I get on.😊

5 years ago by MouldBuilder

Forum

Standard 9x transmitter

Hi, As I see, there is a problem. The basic question is - what you need to control, and the other - whether this type of RC kit will allow this. Especially .. this type is mainly designed for aircraft control. You need to choose compromises to control the ship model. This type does not allow simple switching of functions - only by means of another switching module, or by means of end switches on the modified servo. in the base allows only proportional control of servos or ESC. There are RC sets, that have switching functions, such as Graupner - e.g. Graupner mc-20 12-Channel HoTT but these are far more expensive... The basic wiring is the 3rd throttle for engine control (ESC), channel 4 for control of the rudder. there is a possibility to use channels 1 and 2 for switching the added end switches but it is not possible to switch them permanently (perhaps with the help of the added relay)-. channel 5 can be used - setting> AUX> GYR> PIT TRIM - (rotary potentiometer control.) similarly channel # 7. AUX settings> HOV THRO Channel No 8 - AUX Settings> HOV PIT Operate again using rotary potentiometers - see function descriptions. These channels again allow only proportional control. Switching can be done (maybe) using channel # 6 settings >AUX>FLP> Gear ON/OFF (I did not try this) It is good to get familiar with the setting of the individual elements and check this on the display for the test (without the connection of the receiver !!) before you all plug in the model. I hope it helped you a little bit.. Tom

5 years ago by tomarack

Forum

9x

I’m using my 9x too and I never need to rebind anything

5 years ago by Escrich

Forum

9x

I have just started using a 9x Transmitter with 8 channel and 10 channel Receivers. (I did ask why they didn't make a 9ch Rx but got no satisfactory explanation). I have found the kit to be very good value for money but each time I select a different model, I find I have to re-bind the receiver. Not a big problem, but inconvenient. Is anyone else having the same problem? Thanks Steve

6 years ago by cormorant

Forum

internet sales

Bom dia Wingcoax, If I want something pronto I go online to Conrad or Krick here in Germany and usually get the 'stuff' in one or two days. If I order from /Hobbyking I make sure the stuff comes from the EU warehouse. Then it's usually here within the week. Most of the stuff has reasonably understandable instructions, or I can find it on the web. Learned that the hard way with a delivery from China that took several weeks and and then cost me a small fortune in German customs duty 😡 Model shops around Munich are basically model railway, aircraft or toys🤔 Such is life today! Cheers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

All hooked up, nowt happens...

Hi Dodgy, believe I did mention that about 8 days ago. I discovered the same thing with my ESCs. You have to change the operating mode to For/Rev instead of For/Brake/Rev, as described in the instruction leaflet I posted above. Cheers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

aeronaut classic

Hi Simon, Glad to help😊 I'm just one of many 'Bin there done that' guys on this site. I have no complaints about the motors or ESCs. Not too expensive and seem to work 'as advertised' 👍 When you read the blog you will realise that I did not build the kit (and that I have a nutty sense of humour😁). My Dad built it in the early sixties. I 'simply😲' restored it and upgraded it. Attached pics show the Before and After 😊 The original motor was a Taycol Target field coil motor. I decided to convert that to work with a modern reversible ESC and fit it to an ancient Billing Boats fish cutter that I am slowly restoring and converting from static to working model. Last pic shows the initial 'trial fit' of the motor. The motor restoration / conversion is also described in the Sea Scout blog, as are the materials I used for the restoration. Looking forward to your clips, hope the weather holds up. Whatever you do, however you do it, have fun doing it😁 As my German friends like to say; 'I wish you always a hand's breadth of water under your keel' 😉 Cheers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

aeronaut classic

Hi Doug, Thanks for the links, just watch your YouTube clips and she runs lovely. I’ve seen that a lot of people have used those motors so I might try one of them on my next build. I’ll read the blog over the next few days. What did you think if the kit as a whole to build, only asking as me and my sister have just purchased the Fire Crash Tender for our Father for Chrimbo. Thanks for all your tips, it’s much appreciated. I might try and get some clips of the classic over Gorleston pond today if the weather permits lol. Cheers 😉

5 years ago by Sifi70

Response

aeronaut classic

Hi Simon, I used the lacquer on the blue and white as well. it 'flattened' the paint and made it real hard and smooth 😊 The whole time consuming but satisfying process is described in incredibly boring 😉 detail in my blog- 'Jessica - Sea Scout restoration' (or was it renovation ??😲 Go easy with the lacquer on top of the varnish, not too heavy in one coat, or it may cause hairline surface cracks as it dries due to surface tension. 😡 Motor is a Propdrive 2832, 1000kV driving a 35mm 3 blade brass prop from Raboesch. Running on a 3S Lipo using a Quicrun 30A ESC and iA6 RX. Pic attached of 'Engine Room'. Link attached to videos of the sea trials in May this year, Ostpark Lake and Biergarten, Munich. https://youtu.be/b0BWJ3duzDw https://youtu.be/zPgYicA0yGw She's 24" LoA with an all up weight of about 1.5kg. BTW: the lacquer is also supposed to be UV resistant! 😉 All the best, Doug 😎 PS Here the link to my Sea Scout Build Blog https://model-boats.com/builds/view/28209

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

aeronaut classic

Hi Sandgrounder There are a number of speed 400's with voltage range from 4.8 to 7.2 volts. The revs range is between 16,400 to 22,000 rpm. So 28mm brushless like a Prop Drive V2 2836- 1800kv(shaft 3.175mm) on a 3S Lipo battery with give you 19,980 rpm. ESC 45Amp. Prop 30-32mm 2 blade. If it's tight of battery space Hobbyking have small ones you can parallel together like the 3S 1500mah 25C (73 x 33 x 27 mm). Regards Canabus

5 years ago by canabus

Response

HMS BRAVE BORDERER

Hi Rowen, You don't need capacitors at all, and certainly not in series with the wiring. Whereas I can heartily endorse all that jbkiwi says about the possibilities of modern TXs, I've only scratched the surface of what my Spectrum and sets can do, I can see no justification for the extra capacitors on ESC leads. The length of the wires inside a typical model can not have a significant effect on the total resistance. Given a typical resistance of 1m of copper wire with ca 1mm² cross sectional area of 0.02Ω (less for larger gauges) it ain't gonna make a happorth of difference whether you have 4" (10cm) or 40". Maybe a little more warmth but the capacitor can't change that. I also can't see where the spikes he mentions should come from. Also bear in mind that the ESC does not apply pure DC to the motor but a pulse train with a pulse repetition rate of around 8 to 10kHz. That's why the motors whistle and scream. Adding capacitors to this could distort the pulses or reduce their peak value. If the ESC is so bad that it produces big spikes when the pulses are switched on or off (which I doubt theses days) then junk it and buy a decent one. On no account fit a capacitor in series with the wiring, unless it is a special Coaxial Capacitor, which are very big and relatively expensive. See pic. I've only seen them on large electric motors on board ships where the much higher currents and longer cable runs involved than in models may play a role. A very small value capacitor, in the picofarad range might help to short out any potential high frequency RF interference but I've never experienced the need to fit them. in this respect it could be more important that the length of the cable is not close to the wavelengths typically used by RC sets (12.5cm at 2.4GHz) so that it does not act like an antenna. Cheers, Doug 😎 jbkiwi have looked at the link you posted but I'm not convinced considering the small lengths we use in our boats. Yes there will be some overshoot spikes in the pulse train but so severe as to damage anything is in my opinion highly unlikely, given a decent quality ESC in the first place. Something else on that link just occurred to me. There is a pic of what looks like electrolytic (polarised) capacitors between the wires. This is fine for aircraft ESCs which only run forwards, and thus produce positive going pulses. in our boats with reverse the pulse will switch over to negative going. Which after a while could have an explosive effect on the electrolytics. it blows the cans off and produces an interesting snowstorm effect. Good party trick😁 but maybe not so super inside a model boat😡 IF you do fit them to a reversible ESC be sure to use tantalum capacitors which aren't so fussy.

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

RC....mixers? And other unknowns..

Ok... Currently trying to build a Itaieri Schnellboot, ...but am questioning if what little I think I know to be correct/ workable... I have amassed the following : 3- Hobbyking ST3007 1100KV brushless motors each direct drive to 32mm plastic props.... (2 right hand drive and 1 left hand drive props... swapped over leads on on motor to get it to run as yet untested the left hand prop) 3- nano tech 3s 3000mh 25-50C Lipo ( Have got a balance charger and board , flame proof charge bag , battery voltage check/ alarm units, and will check and charge them await the only local help I have in RC / lips battery a helicopter flyer who has no experience with RC boats ) I just read the post on WTail mixer and wonder if I need that or if my current unkowning idea to just connect all 3 ESC ‘s together to one channel on the radio , again was give Eflite Blade SR HP6DSM 2.4GHz to try out ,Will this unit work or do I need something else , currently will/ can use all 6 channels but would / could use more if I had them ... last time I had anything to do with RC was a a kid/ teen and back then you had ground radios and flight radios and the two should not be mixed .. Ok please advise , how far off am I or am I still within range of keeping it simple ? Thanks All Bill

6 years ago by BW3

Forum

S.H.Grainger Formula Powerboat

Hi Steve im not sure now regarding motors as they have water cooling cans on but Surfury runs from memory a 1075kva motor 160 A speedo watercooled on 2x2s 5200 lipo`s in series ie 14.4volts with 52mm mocom Alum prop approx 3hp. I think the Tornado has approx 2045kva motor same speedo + lipo`s x 50mm nylon prop both do scale speed to as fast as 40/61 IC and look great on our choppy water with just prop and rudder in the water. Both motors will take 6s if you like ballistic? All gear from Hobby king. Try the IC first, post some pics please

6 years ago by vortex

Forum

PT 109 upgrade?

My 1/24th Schnellboot 5' was running on 3x850 mfa motors changed to 1 x 3648 1450kv outrunner operating on a 3s lipo. . more than enough speed even with the outer props just freewheeling

6 years ago by camyaj

Forum

Cheap motor for a quick fit, but what prop gents?...

Hi Martin, Welcome to the world of 'working' models😉 It also cost me a small fortune when I started to get into brushless and LiPo stuff last year after retiring. That Simprop ESC should be fine for your Supermarine (if you ever find it 😁) See what you mean about the prices for bigger NiMhs 🤔 OK, 'Go LiPo young man', BUT remember what I wrote above; Watch 'em! Any other printing on that 2012 motor? Maker? kV rating? A pic might help. What do you mean by 'a couple of LiPos'? 2S? Re Brushless ESCs; have a look at the range at HobbyKing, or Quicrun at HobbyWing. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/power-systems/speed-controllers/brushless-esc.html?___store=en_us&brand=2033%2C2223%2C2009&dir=asc&esc_compatibility_type=4546%2C4549%2C4570&esc_product_type=4576&order=position&stock=1&wrh=1%2C7 https://www.hobbywingdirect.com/collections/quicrun-brushless-system You can probably find a UK shop for these; Google them! I use the 30A Quicrun version in my Sea Scout works fine with my Propdrive 2830 1000kV motor and a 3S LiPo. See pic. Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Current loading of a Motor

HI CB90 I use a 180Amp Wattmeter and Power Analyzer which plugs in line between the battery and ESC. Canabus

6 years ago by canabus

Forum

ESC info...

Mornin' Martin, Pure curiosity! Which motor is it? Re LiPos, recommendation difficult🤔 Different Brand names seem to prevale in UK and Germany, unless the ubiquitous ! Whatever the brand and wherever the shop is you buy from they nearly all seem to be manufactured in southern China, Shenzhen mostly! ( I have kit for a Shenzhen class modern destroyer of the PLA Navy!) The price for the Overlanders looks good, and if the shop values it's reputation they will be good, and they're nearby if the wheel falls off👍 Cheers, Doug😎 PS Your 'stuff' should be on it's way tomorrow. Weather cooled down 15° or more, currently 18° and drizzly rain with occasional short sharp downpours all day today - one extreme to the other! Mail coming today re 'Brass Bashing' etc.

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

ESC info...

Hi Doug, thanks for that, but I've just seen that every bloody one is out of stock! I figured it worth spending a little more on a . Unfortunately so, clearly, have a lot of others. I'll see if they're available from others. I checked the 152VO site and most use a 60 A it seems and I assume are well pleased with them. Thanks for the clarity about testing though, Doug. it's good to hear what one guesses at being confirmed by an expert. Cheers, Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Blog

Seat Trials and mods.

It’s been a while since the boat had it’s maiden voyage on the lake at St. Albans and I’m pleased to report that it looks really good in the water and goes like stink if you open up the throttle. Sadly I still don’t have any decent video of the boat yet as I can’t film and drive the thing at the same time, but I do have some static wide shots from my GoPro. When I do the video I’ll ask a cameraman mate to do the honours, maybe I’ll put the GoPro on the bow and then the stern to get some low action shots…the storyboard is already building in my head!! These early runs were great as they showed up some minor problems that needed attending to. I found that it needed ballasting slightly as it was not sitting on the waterline evenly from side to side so I flattened out some old lead water pipe and cut it into small sections so that I could add ballast incrementally. I did this in the ‘domestic test tank’ and once I was happy the lead pieces were fixed in place inside the hull with some super strong double sided tape. The ESC needed a little programming adjustment because I had forgotten to set the low battery level point to ‘off’ as I am using NiMh batteries and not LiPo’s , that was the cause of the short initial run time on the first outing…..DOH !! The batteries are now held in place by Velcro straps on some bearers that I added, otherwise a battery change involved cutting cable ties and replacing them at the lakeside…not very practical. The volt/amp/watt meter is also now on a proper bracket so that the display is more readable. I have also changed the charging connection from the nasty Tamiya connector to a nice little panel mount XT 60 connector that HobbyKing sell, it comes with a handy blanking plug that I have drilled for a retaining cord. I have also finally got around to upgrading the firmware on my i6 radio to the 10 channel version so that I can assign the lighting to the switches properly and have the rotation of the searchlight on one of the two rotary knobs. I can use the old 6 channel RX in the new boat….blog coming soon.

6 years ago by robbob

Forum

upgrading i6 to 10 channels

I finally got around to upgrading my i6 system from 6 channels to 10 channels today.😁 Happily the firmware update went like a dream and I was able to install a new 10 channel rx in my RAF Crash Tender and then reprogramme the new auxiliary channels to the functions I need. And of course a long press on the exit button saves all the settings properly.....as we all know now 👍 😁 This has freed-up the previous six channel receiver which I now need for the new boat project which is now well under way. Robbob.

6 years ago by robbob

Forum

upgrading i6 to 10 channels

Youtube has several posts about upgrading the i6 firmware(or the Flysky i6) from 6 to 10 channels. All very easy and I have done it, but it has gone wrong somewhere. Everything has changed that should change except for one small part of the upgrade- the 4 extra channels do not work! The screen information shows they exist and the firmware shows that it has been updated. Has anyone on this forum done this upgrade? If so, any ideas where I have gone wrong. I have reverted to the factory settings twice and still can't get it sorted, and it seems such a simple thing to do. Frustrated. Chris

6 years ago by octman

Media

Mk2 RTTL 2771

Upgraded to Brushless 2x1100kva motors, Scratch built 1/24 scale. I've included a photo of a real one, just in case somebody else tells me the colour scheme is wrong, East of Gibralta they where white. I'm sitting on the engine hatch nearest the camera, that was 1969

6 years ago by colindavies

Forum

What transmitter , receiver

Hi I have both the and Flysky 6 channel ones. The same, great units and you can upgrade the switches and control knobs to a number of different colours if you wish. Check out Banggood. Canabus

6 years ago by canabus

Forum

What transmitter , receiver

Flysky i-6 is amazing value for money for a 6 channel computer radio. Hobbyking sell the same set with their brand as the TGY i-6. You can buy the TGY i-6 from Hobbyking in the UK for around £45:- https://hobbyking.com/en_us/-tgy-i6-afhds-transmitter-and-6ch-receiver-mode-2.html

6 years ago by ukengineman

Forum

Spektrum, new, useless...

Hi FV, The switch used for binding on the DX5e is the Trainer switch! Not AUX. Martin has reported extensively on the use of the Trainer switch! Orange RXs are not just "cheap copies" of Spektrum. In my experience they not only 'understand' Spektrum DSM2 but also AFHDS from / FlySky etc etc. Thus not 'cheap copies' but inexpensive, intelligent and versatile alternatives. So far I have not had one that doesn't work with either my i6 or my Spektrum DX6. Greetings, Doug

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

David Metcalfs Waveney - ''The Scout''

For sale is my 1/12th scale model of the Waveney Lifeboat - "The Scout" Kit produced by David Metcalf. Built to a good standard with an array of working features: Working radar controlled through a voltage reducer Navigation lights, mast lights, front and rear searchlights, flashing blue light and well lights all controlled by an Action Electronics P62 quad switcher. The flashing effect of the blue light is controlled by an Action ElectronicsP73 multi flasher. Powered by two 3542/5 1250kv brushless outrunners controlled by two Fusion Hawk 60amp electronic speeed controllers. Fitted with Raboesch propshafts and 3 bladed brass left and right handed propellors. Batteries and radios are not included in the sale. The model is available for pick up only with cash on collection from Stafford ST16 which is approximately 1/2 mile from Junction 14 of the M6 motorway. Price £700 ovno

6 years ago by Flack

Forum

Spektrum, new, useless...

Wow! a real 'DX Maniac' 😉😁 My DX6 is quite chatty too, nice seductive voice though 😁 Haven't tried it with the Orange RX yet, but it's DSM2 so it should work. It bound to my i6 (re-branded as REELY here in Germany by Conrad) no problem at all. Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Spektrum, new, useless...

Sorry Capn, but 'uppermost still doesn't have any meaning 😲 Left, centre, right does! = Signal, Positive, Negative. I also have some AR610s, see attached pic. Printing shows clearly (if tiny🤔) ∏ ,+,- at the bottom of the printed label. The bottom socket (as in my pic) is the Bind/Dat (Data) socket where the binding plug should go. The battery in any other socket. The red wire from the battery should ALWAYS be on the MIDDLE pin, whether uppermost, downermost, on it's side or 'avin a kip in my Aunt Fanny's garden😉😁 The FlySky / RXs use the same convention. They indicate the Signal pin with an S !! Surprise😉 I also have an Orange RX (with stabiliser for my PBY Catalina). It follows the same convention, see pic 2. The S for signal is moulded into the case at the bottom of the LH column of pins. Bottom socket is marked Batt/Bind for the Bind plug. Would help speed things up if you posted a pic or two of what you have, and how you are connecting up! Final thought! Are you switching on RX and TX in the right order? RX first AFTER inserting the Bind plug, TX second AFTER holding the Trainer switch ON. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS: just stripped out my PTB, incl shafts, tubes and rudder stocks, all I got left is wood an' glue 😲

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...

Evenin' Martin, Oh dear oh dear oh dear! 😲 There is some good advice above, but maybe not optimally expressed for use by a Luddite! Sorry guys but this might be a relatively long post to separate the wheat from the chaff, explode a few myths and resolve this little conundrum of Martin's! One thing at a time! NUMBER1. THE RADIO- Dear Martin: Whatever possessed a self confessed Luddite and Scrooge like you to spring a large chunk of your hard earned pension on one of the most expensive and complex RC sets on the market in the first place???? I bought a Spektrum DX6 on impulse a few years ago while strolling around Conrad here in Munich. I've regretted it ever since. in retrospect it was way too expensive >600€, and complex. it is intended for the Fly Boys, as unfortunately most sets are these days. I have still not successfully programmed it to do what I want to do, instead of what it is pre-programmed to do for helis and fixed wing aircraft. Not even with it's own Spektrum RX, let alone a 'foreign' RX like Orange. So I have not yet risked it in a model. Definitely NOT my Catalina. Since then I have bought a I6. Which does the same as the Spektrum, works fine with my Orange RX with giro for the Catalina😉, cost only 69€ (is now available for around 33 quid😡) and within a few hours I had it programmed and tested to do all I want in my destroyer and Sea Scout.👍 In short: the Spektrum is way way way Overkill for your yacht or Fire Float or similar, where you will only ever want rudder and sail servo / winch or rudder and speed control. So flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple (and cheap😉) 2 or 4 channel set. I can't imagine you ever wanting to start building special effects into your models so 2 (max 4) channels is all you will probably ever need. Stick your Spektrum on eBay, maybe you'll get at least a 100 quid for it. If you still want to go 2.4Gig get yourself a i6 set with RX, 6 ch but cheap enough and I can help you directly with binding and programming from experience - I have a good English manual with no Chenglish gobbledygook. If not and you still have a working 27 or 40MHz FM set (40 would be better) use that. Where you sail, all alone, who's going to bother you or be bothered? BTW: Yes the Spektrum TX IS DSM2 and DSX compatible BUT you have to tell it what you want to use!!! Frankly I think trying that with a non-Spektrum RX is risky - especially first time out and for a novice Luddite😉 NUMBER 2. THE NiMh BATTERY- Voltage is not a reliable indication of battery charge / remaining capacity. After use a battery will recover slightly when at rest and the open terminal (off load) voltage will rise, often to the nominal voltage or slightly above. This is NO indicator of remaining charge as when a load is applied the voltage will drop again rapidly, the higher the current drawn the faster the voltage drops. if it goes below 1.0V per cell the battery will be permanently damaged and never regain it's original capacity. Haverlock is dead right about batteries losing charge when not used or regularly recharged. An NiMh batt loses charge at the rate of about 1% per day so after 3 months or so you can send it to the great recycling depot in the sky and buy a new one. Periodic cycling, discharge / charge prevents / minimises this - see care hints I posted above. And yes, NiMh do have that irritating Memory effect🤔 albeit not so pronounced as with NiCads. Lipos apparently not, but I ain't seen any evidence yet - the jury is still out! Sooo - ignore the 6.37V and run the batt through a discharge and full charge cycle. if your new NiMh batt has not yet been cycled and charged I would bet that it's present capacity is about 45%. See example below (and in attached pic) of one of my new 4.8V (nom) NiMh RX batts. NUMBER 3. THE CAPACITY CHECKER - "Glorified voltmeter" ? Where did the 6.37V reading come from if not from your 'new toy'? If it is showing volts it should also be showing capacity in %age. If you received the wrong thing it's not the "bloody electrics" but the bloody nit who packed and sent it that's at fault. Before you send it back check the below😉 Send me a photo of the Checker you have and with your battery plugged in so I can see what's happening on the display. Otherwise we are all poking about in the dark (Are we back to Jules and his friend Sandy😉😲) The link I sent you was for a checker exactly the same as mine except for the labelling! As you can see in my photo, properly connected it shows the terminal voltage and the remaining capacity (charge level) of the battery pack. Forget the Nixx (=2 Ni possibilities) display, that just means 'It ain't a LiXX' (3 Li- pissibolities). Attached photo shows a brand new 4 cell NiMh RX pack 4.8V (Nominal) connected to one of my Checkers. As you can see the voltage shown is 5.19V, according to the popular 'folklore' that would seem to indicate FULL charge. Unfortunately not🤔 Capacity indication is 45% which is normal for brand new batteries in storage and transit. Explanation thereof - see above! RE: " if it can do LiPos, why not the relatively simpler NiMhs?" a) the LiPo pack has a different chemistry and construction which requires different input circuitry on the checker, b) LiPos need balancing and are fitted with Balancer Plugs which connect to the multipin connectors on the checker. Each pin connects to one cell of the LiPo so that they can be monitored individually. LiPo chargers use this to balance the cells to within 0.01V (100mV) or less by adjusting the charge / discharge currents to each cell. The checkers use this to show you the individual cell voltages and charge states. A big difference, i.e.lower V and capacity, indicates cells with faults, e.g. higher internal resistance, or a discharged pack which needs charging and balancing. NiMh packs don't usually have this facility to measure individual cells. They are thus connected to a separate input on the checker which can then only show total pack terminal voltage and capacity. BTW: if you can get it passed 'THE Management' store your battery packs in the fridge😲 The 'coolth' slows down the rate of self discharge, which is a function of the battery internal resistance, which reduces slightly with reduced temperature😉 Enough for now, back to stripping my PTB for it's Midlife Refit! Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Martin: Just saw your post about another RX. Why the hell not buy a Spektrum designed Rx guaranteed to work with their TX? Or better still; flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple set as above, also recommended by Ron, albeit the 9 ch version. All this frigging about with 'claimed compatible' bits and pieces just wastes money and time, fogs the issue and don't prove nutt'n!

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...

Your not having much luck Martin , I've never used the orange rx's so can't help you with that I've always used the 9x and for the money it's been a great radio that's never let me down. I'm sure you will figure it all out and it will be something simple staring you in the face . Ron

6 years ago by kmbcsecretary

Forum

Brushless motor selection

Hi robhenry Your motor would be only running at about 9500rpm 0n 9.6 volts. The closest brushless motor would be a Hobbyking L5055C-700kv on 4S Lipo batteries (10360 rpm), these are 50mm diameter, 6mm shaft. Note you require a separate ESC for each motor and a Y connector to link them to your throttle channel. Personally I would use the Hobbyking car 100A ESC's (HK-100A). Also both the motors and ESCs require no water cooling. Canabus

6 years ago by canabus

Forum

Newbie radio control question

I have the 9xR Pro from . at the price I payed for it was so good, it is very light in the hand and all the controls just full to hand also I found it very easy to bind with all my receivers. Fred

6 years ago by Fred

Forum

Newbie radio control question

I need to get a new radio that I can potentially use on a variety of boats. I have been looking at this: TGY-i6 AFHDS Transmitter and 6CH Receiver (Mode 2) from Hobby King. Is it any good? And what is the difference between Mode 1 and Mode 2?

6 years ago by GerryD

Response

1920's Runabout

The motor is a D2838/11 1000kv with a Hobbyking 30amp esc on 2/3 cell lipo.

6 years ago by Jim

Forum

advise required

Just to throw a little spanner in the works teejay if your thinking of adding auxiliary's to your boats later as you progress, I use the 9x radio from hobbyking now and for the money mate I can't fault the radio and the receiver's are cheap and 10 model memory . Ron

6 years ago by kmbcsecretary

Forum

brushless motor

Hi Cliff I am installing a Hobbyking L5055-700(1600 Watts) with a 100Amp ESC and a 4S 5800mah 60C Lipo battery. Plan to start with a 2 blade 52mm CNC prop. Canabus

6 years ago by canabus

Media

Higgins PT Boat

This Higgins PT boat was built and sailed by a good friend of mine. it is scratch-built. it uses a single 3639 1100kV brushless motor and LiPo battery. it is pretty new and has not had its number painted on as yet. its performance is excellent.

6 years ago by reilly4

Forum

Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat

Hello. I hope I can get a little help with battery choice. I have been reading the comments above and elsewhere on the site, and have decided to go along the LiPo route. I purchased the 3648 1450kv brushless motor along with the Hobbyking brushless car ESC 100A w/reverse. I have done a little research on this battery but still do not know the exact battery I should be looking for. Please can you help with the following: What voltage should I be looking for. To have a reasonable useage period, can you advise on a suitable mAh rating. Please can you recommend a charger. Should I have a charge alarm. Should I have a monitor for cell voltage. Are there any other accessories I should have. Thanks in advance. Peter.😊

6 years ago by MouldBuilder

Response

Vivace Patrolboat

The 3800KV 2627 fits directly on the jetdrive without any modifications needed. Please remember to keep that small spacer made of GF, between the motor and the drive.

6 years ago by Tica

Blog

Vivace Patrolboat

Started on a new "in between" model boat Vivace drawn by Glynn Guest. I'll use a Chinese jet drive as designed by GG but with a minor modification 😁 Which is a BL 3800KV 2627 running on 2S LiPo. (as I also did on my NQD Tear into Pro Mod.)

6 years ago by Tica

Forum

9x

I've never had this problem and been using my 9x for about 4 years now. I have heard of this problem from others and there thoughts where a bad batch of receivers ?

6 years ago by kmbcsecretary

Forum

Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat

Hi MB, Sorry for late response, I've been occupied with varnishing and painting of my Sea Scout renovation. The i6 and Flysky FS-6 are hardware identical but have slightly different software, not critical I understand. I have the German branded version of the i6, called here HT-6. Attached is the excellent German / English User / Programming manual without the Chenglish gobbledygook! Flysky Chenglish manual also attached for comparison. Only mistake I found in the manual is re Binding (see pic); they mention Binding button on the RX when it is on the TX at bottom left item 13 in the attached pic of my German branded Reely version. BTW; iA6 is the RX type number. The TX is TGY-I6 or FS-6 for Flysky. Pics 4 & 5 show my Reely HT-6 and TGY-I6 versions. identical except for labelling, same goes for the Flysky - see manual. Re: Servos: I have tested my TX and an iA-6 RX with all sorts of servos; Sanwa, Futaba, Hitec amongst others some going back 30 years and they all work fine. I currently have an iA-6 RX and ancient Hitec standard rudder servo in my Sea Scout and it works just fine. Re: controlling the ESC; it just plugs into the RX like a servo. Usually channel 1 or 3 depending on whether you want throttle on the right or left stick respectively. Re: 3D printed stuff 'brittle or not'; depends on what type of filament they use for the print so can't really say. Up to now have not had problems. What I have noticed with some 3D plastic and resin items is surface defects, pits etc, which need some treatment before fitting. Resin also tends to be more brittle than 3D plastic prints. Resin don't bend well and don't like knocks! As I discovered with the resin gun barrels on my Graf Spee 😡 Will be replaced shortly with turned brass or Alu! Re: LiPos; attached is a file from Model Boats mag of Hints and Tips for using LiPos. it also explains the tech jargon surrounding brushless motors, i.e. interpreting model numbers and parameters😉 All for now, cheers Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat

Thanks Canabus. I have just checked out the transmitter/receiver sets. Very reasonably priced. I really do want to upgrade. The is around £40 whilst the Flysky is around £34. Do you have a preference?😊 Would my Futaba servos still work or would I need to change these also. I know this might be a strange question, but as you can see from one of my pictures above, I have a servo operating the speed controller. How do you control an electronic speed controller with the radio. As for the battery, is the safety bag used to put the battery in for charging in case it catches fire? I am a little wary about using things that I may not have control over. I have been looking at brushless motors. Can you say a kv range I should be looking for to possibly increase the speed issue. You have mentioned 1100kv and others above but was just wondering what you would cosider to be sensible bearing in mind only one motor is practical witout major hull surgery. Can I assume that if a motor is given a kv rating that all motors are based on the same criteria, or are there other variables. Thanks. 👍

6 years ago by MouldBuilder

Forum

Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat

Hi MouldBuilder I use the Hobbyking IA6 which is the same as the Banggood Flysky I6 2.4G 6 channel sets. You can set up 20 different models of the one transmitter. I have both and are great units. I was scarce of this Lipo stuff years ago, but, a good balance charger with a safety bag you will be OK. A battery alarm is a cheap handy little unit or add a sensor unit into the boat so you can monitor the battery voltage at the transmitter. Check out you tube about the radio. Canabus

6 years ago by canabus