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    Blog
    Wheelhouse
    Having completed the basic hull repaint, it was time to get on to some of the more interesting details. Many of the deck fittings, ventilators, Samson post, etc were sourced from the shop on this website. These plastic fittings were primed with a grey etch primer and then top coated with Tamiya Gunmetal or Humbrol white enamel as appropriate. Being the 1/16th scale Crash Tender, I don't have the benefit of having a set of white metal fittings. I wasn't able to find many off the shelf fittings in 1/16th scale so decided to scratch build them instead. It makes the job more interesting, if a bit fiddly, ....... and very time consuming! The first task was to replace the fixed wheelhouse roof with a removeable one. This gives access to the interior of the wheelhouse for fitting lighting, new
    window
    s, and the searchlight servo. The
    window
    frames were cut from 1mm plasticard and painted silver. The mast was built from brass, including making the pulleys. A 5mm white LED is fitted to the top, with a little white painted brass cap to make it look the part. Rigging is 1.5mm elastic cord. I think this is a little thick and 1mm might look better. I still have to source the ensign to fly from the mast. There is a pulley in place ready for it. The port, starboard and wheelhouse roof navigation lights were all constructed using plasticard and fitted with 3mm LEDs. The aerial on the roof of the wheelhouse is made from brass based on the details given by Mike (mturpin013) in his blog. The boathooks were also scratchbuilt from brass. I thought they would look better than the white metal ones available on eBay. For the "shepherd's crook" hook, the brass rod was first tapered by filing and sanding before being bent to the appropriate shape. The other hook was formed by silver soldering a brass cross piece onto a tapered shaft. Both hooks were formed on the end of a long length of brass rod to make it easier to handle them. Once complete, a short section of rod behind the hook was turned down to 1mm dia to form a spigot for mounting on the poles. The poles were carved from mahogany. With all these details in place it is really beginning to look the part. Next up the rear deck.
    2 months ago by Graham93
    Blog
    window
    s and frames
    Nothing earth shaking tonight, I installed the skylights in the cabin roof, and the
    window
    frames in the cabin proper. I didn’t paint the frames, they’re molded in with, some guys paint them, some don’t, I elected not to. The
    window
    s supplied with the kit are tinted and laser cut, but still have to be trimmed as they are a mite oversized. Going to see how they fit in the
    window
    frames, if I don’t like how the fit I’ll cut
    window
    s from clear and make my life a little easier to boot. By the way, I use RC56 to do all my glazing, it’s designed for plastic canopies and dries crystal clear. It’s not waterproof but it is water resistant, had several planes get pretty damp flying in misty weather never had the glue let go.
    2 months ago by Cashrc
    Forum
    Veron Huntsman 28 riding the white horses!
    Sorry Martin but NO WAY!πŸ€” I recently tried a 2 part "chrome paint" sold as "ideal for plastic RC car / buggy shells". Tried it on primed 0.5mm ply and on raw alu. Came out looking like Hammerite Silver-Grey ☹️ Haven't tried it on plastic yet! Back in my scootering days (Vespa GS160) I used to use chrome tape which really did reflect and look the part. If I fit
    window
    frames to my Sea Scout I will go the same way as Paul - polished aluminium. Chrome looks too "pimped up" anyway 😝 Cheers, Doug 😎
    3 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Veron Huntsman 28 riding the white horses!
    Last time I refurbished or at least tidied the boat up, about 3 years ago, I realised it was impossible to find chrome parts or a rechromer who would do small parts. I stumbled across a northwest company called chrome illusion and after some badgering he agreed to put all my small parts in the paint booth next time he was doing chrome paint. It's a treatment he has patented and its paint but the prep was the key. Over time the metal parts have remained beautiful but the plastic parts such as the
    window
    frames have suffered, mainly due to water Ingress getting under the paint. When I tidy things up I'm going back to a stainless finish on the frames as I think they look more subtle and less like bright silver paint
    3 months ago by pmdevlin
    Forum
    Workshop
    That's a good idea to use polycarbonate sheet for
    window
    s. We've taken the easy way out and bought second hand double glazed
    window
    s and door. The imitation stained glass panels in the door add a nice touch. Nerys
    3 months ago by Nerys
    Forum
    Workshop
    Thanks for the comments. For safety as our grandchildren play here I used 4mm polycarbonate safety sheet direct from the manufacturer cut to the sizes of my
    window
    frames. Cheers Colin.
    3 months ago by Colin H
    Blog
    36'' Thames River Police Launch by Robbob
    After the successful build of the β€˜Vintage Model Works’ RAF Crash Rescue Tender I was asked by Mike Cummings of VMW if I would undertake to build a prototype of their new model with the aim of checking the construction method and the assembly instructions for accuracy before the kit is put into production. The model is a β€˜Thames River Police Launch’ and is based on the original design by Phil Smith for the Veron company, this was a very popular model kit in the late 50’s and 60’s and sold for the princely sum of 43 shillings and tuppence, approximately Β£2.15 in today’s money but an equivalent cost of Β£48.50 in 1960. This design has been updated to accommodate electric propulsion and radio control by Colin Smith, the son of the original designer and it has been re-scaled to be 36” in length where the original was 24” which gives much more scope for detailing and provides more β€˜hiding room’ for the drive, control systems and all the associated wiring. The kit produced by VMW uses the same construction techniques as the original and the materials are a combination of balsa and plywood both of which a laser and CNC cut for precision. The ply and balsa materials supplied are of very high quality as one would expect from VMW and all the stripwood for the chines, rubbing strakes and deck detailing is included, even the dowel required for the mast is in the box, very comprehensive! The kit also includes white metal fittings such as the fairleads and stanchions, and the searchlight and horns. The glazing for the
    window
    s comes in the kit too. The instruction sheet supplied is in need of revision as it is largely taken directly from the original as written by Phil Smith and some of the terminology needs updating, for instance the ply bottom and side skins are referred to as β€˜strakes’ but I understand that a re-write of the instructions is in hand along with an updated plan showing the best positioning for the motor, prop-shaft, battery, ESC, receiver, rudder and servo. During construction I have added a few additional pieces of ply or balsa as reinforcement or supports and substituted some balsa parts for ply where I thought a stronger material would be better. I also added some hatches to give access to the wiring at the bow and the rudder & servo at the stern but largely I have not gone β€˜off plan’ to any extent. The pictures show the model in it’s present state (Nov 2018) and is ready for painting and finishing.
    1 year ago by robbob
    Forum
    Re: water is wet and so was I.
    Hi, I have just been looking at these photos again admiring the woodwork. Excellent job. How do you plan on doing the chrome
    window
    frames.? Perhaps I should wait and see. Martin.
    5 months ago by Martin555
    Blog
    Detailing the cabin – Part 1.
    All the glazing on the cabin is fixed except for the forward
    window
    s on each side which are on runners for the crew to slide open. The glazing supplied in the kit for these sliding
    window
    s is 1mm Perspex so I made some runners by laminating two strips of 1.5mm obeche strip, one of which was shaped beforehand to be narrower and thus forming a rebate for the
    window
    to run in. The upper and lower runners for each side were made in this way. All the runners were then given a couple of coats of Teak stain before they were epoxied to the cabin sides, a temporary
    window
    template was used to get the spacing and positioning correct during this stage. A vertical piece was also made, with a rebate too, as an end stop which was also fixed in place. The template was then used to produce the actual
    window
    s which both have a handle glued to the outer rear edge with canopy glue and both run very well but with sufficient friction in the runners to hold them in although I will fit a removable retaining pin at the ends of the runners to prevent them from sliding out completely 😠. The two white metal navigation lights supplied in the kit were painted with some metallic silver acrylic and the lenses painted red and green, these fix onto some obeche pieces fashioned and formed to complete the lights, then both were Teak stained and epoxied to the top
    window
    runners. In part 2 I will tackle the handrails for the cabin roof 😁.
    8 months ago by robbob
    Forum
    Mclaren Clockwork Submarines U50
    "... I dare say that with the necessary computer skills it probably would be easier,however it would be quite difficult for me to hold cardboard templates against a monitor screen. The whole ethos of what I do is somewhat Luddite in nature,to use basic tools,free materials and as little technology as possible...." I'm not sure where the cardboard template comes in? if you want to put it into a computer you use a scanner - if you want to take it out you use a printer. They are usually the same machine... I'm not dissimilar to a Luddite - the KK EeZeBilt sites are all about making things from raw materials and using household detritus to create fittings. But computers are just another tool - and can be as basic as you like. I still lament the passing of DOS, because I felt that you should understand how tools work before you use them, and
    window
    s made it impossible to know where all the bits were going... One advantage of computing technology is communication. You are illustrating this at the moment. All I was thinking was that your skills, experience and work could reach a much wider group of people. There are, for instance, kids in Australia building EeZeBilts because the data to do so is on the web: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aAHJbJieV0o
    9 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Directory
    (Working Vessel) Progress J-502
    Billing Boats kit, Progress J-502 vacuum formed hull, deck and cabin. Wheel house is very thin wood 2 ply. The kit was missing styrene strips, but the deck fittings were included. All brass rods, mahogany strips, rigging was in the kit. Added furniture in wheelhouse, navigation lights,
    window
    s, and railings and other details not found in the kit. Fun little boat to make and research. (7/10)
    9 months ago by Ron
    Blog
    Hull progressing nicely!
    OK, so the last 2 posts on the blog were from work undertaken three weeks ago. I am now up to the present day and have spent the whole week and weekend in getting the bottom and side skins on the skeleton of the hull and putting on the transom. Because the curves of the hull are quite specific on the Huntsman, only one piece of skin can be fitted at a time, and then trimmed into place before the next piece of skin will fit. In the previous post I mentioned all the laser cut pieces are cut oversize.....fitting the skins was a real challenge! Following the instructions at this stage went out the
    window
    and I fitted the skins in the reverse order, but feel it was the best option. The instructions say built from the bow first and work back to the transom, but impossible to fit the pieces in this order, so I started with the aft and worked forwards. It also mentions to overlap the side skins with the bottom skins, but all I could manage was to butt the pieces together with a tight fit and fill with P38 afterwards. The pictures show the completed skins, trimmed, sanded and gaps filled with P38 and then sanded again. It now takes on a good shape, however the difficult pieces on the bow are still to be completed. These are formed of 4 pieces of solid balsa wood that need to be cut and sanded to multiple curves...… next weeks job! Once this is done then its on to filling again and re-sanding and finishing. Hopefully it would look more like a Huntsman Hull rather than a hammer head shark!
    9 months ago by StuartE
    Blog
    Painting
    I must admit that the painting process is not my favourite. it takes so long and time is always at a premium due to work commitments. I rush it a bit so that the build can continue. I fitted all of the
    window
    s into the deck structure and covered them with the low tack film. I then primed, two coats, painted, two coats followed by two coats of lacquer. I am quite pleased with the results even though it is not perfect. I decided not to fit the deck until all of the electronics, including the ESC, battery and receiver had been installed. This is because one of the big problems with this model is the lack of room to work in once the deck is in place. Another problem I encountered was the fitting of the tiller cranks onto the rudders. if the instructions are followed, it is almost impossible the adjust or remove them once the deck has been fitted. I solved the problem by reversing the cranks and bending the connecting wire to miss a bulkhead support. The screws can now be reached from the deck opening. I have now completed the majority of the painting and have started to assemble the remaining parts. Currently I am doing the wiring of the lighting and making a couple of circuit boards. There are a lot of wires involved so to reduce the amount I have decided to us e a common negative. (Cannot remember what this is called right now). There are still a lot of wires and they are mostly coming out from the cabin structure. I have decided to introduce some nine pin connectors to make cabin removal a lot easier. This is quite a big job and will take a little while. I really enjoy this bit. The results add that little bit of extra satisfaction when it all works as it should.πŸ€“ The top search light assembly came as a bit of a surprise. it is manufactured from nickel silver plate and requires soldering together. Even though I am a precision engineer, I have not soldered a box since I was at school. Once I stopped burning my fingers with the heat, I quite enjoyed the assembly even though it would have been useful to have an extra hand and took the best part of today to complete.😀 I can honestly say that I have enjoyed most of this build and even though earlier on I was thinking to avoid Aero-naut models in the future, I have changed my mind. They are very cleverly designed. I expect to complete this model some time in March. That would be the first for me to complete in recent times even though I have two others on the go and one new one in its box ready for a Summer start.😊
    9 months ago by MouldBuilder
    Blog
    Building the Cabin. Part 2
    Before the front
    window
    panels can be added to the cabin structure they need to be shaped to follow the curvature of the front deck as much as possible and then glued together with a reinforcing strip on the back of the joint. Unfortunately I made an error 😑 when shaping and jointing the parts and had to make some new panels from some thin ply that I had to hand using the old panels as a template, hence the roughly cut
    window
    apertures in the β€˜photos. This was unfortunate but I feel better for the confession πŸ™. The new
    window
    panel was then glued and pinned to the front of the cabin assembly and left to dry while in the meantime I used my hot air gun to heat and bend the roof panel to the correct curvature. The roof panel was then pinned and glued in place on the cabin framework and when dry was trimmed with a small plane and the front
    window
    panel trimmed down to the roof profile. I added some additional framing and bracing pieces at the base of the front
    window
    panels and a β€˜shelf’ which will form part of the dashboard inside the cabin. I also added some extra framing and an end panel at the rear of the roof and a thin square bead was fitted around the base of the cabin sides and front to improve the appearance where the cabin meets the deck. Before adding further detail to the cabin I used some Z-Poxy finishing resin on the roof panel to strengthen it and provide a better surface for the paint finish which comprised of one coat of white primer, two coats of gloss β€˜Appliance White’ and two coats of gloss lacquer, all with a thorough rub down between. When all the paint had dried and hardened I gave the exterior of the cabin a first coat of β€˜Antique Pine’ stain. Next I will add some detail to the deck.
    9 months ago by robbob
    Response
    Building the Cabin. Part 1
    Hi rob I have just completed a similar job on a Freeman 22 cabin cruiser, a three sided structure with a couple of additional cross pieces made from bamboo at the deck level and finally glassing the whole structure it finished as a very rigid cabin, however I appreciate you have more
    window
    apertures in yours which leaves little area for increasing strength between roof and the sides. having said all that I'm sure you will have produced a superb cabin to match the rest of the boat. all the best Michael
    9 months ago by mturpin013
    Blog
    Building the Cabin. Part 1
    The superstructure of the launch is very simple, and from a practical point it was designed to give the crew a large field of view across the river and fast access in and out to deal with emergency situations. Consequently the construction is quite basic and would be quite straightforward if permanently fixed to the boat but this cabin needs to be removable to give access to the battery location and motor. Because of this the cabin needs to be a strong and rigid structure of its own and yet fit invisibly to the rest of the model, it’s also only a three sided structure because of the open access at the rear and that alone will be a point of weakness to the structure. I started by glueing the internal bracing strips to the insides of the deck sides as described in the instruction sheet and some strips that form the base for the sides that sit on the deck, these also needs to be sanded to an angle to sit flush on the deck and also create a vertical face that some further strips are fixed to which meet the inside walls of the deck well. Although all the parts for the cabin are accurately laser cut I chose to do a dry β€˜test fit’ using pins and elastic bands to hold the side panels and roof braces together. This 'dry fit' was neccessary because I had previously decided to fit false obeche panels over the balsa sides and floor of the well to get a better surface to finish in the way I intend, balsa does not have any pleasing grain and does not look good even when stained, so I pinned all these panels in place to account for their addition to the internal dimensions of the well deck. When I was happy that the geometry of the side panels and front
    window
    panels was correct I glued all the roof braces in place and added some reinforcing fillets to make it more rigid, temporary braces were glued across the front and rear of the assembly to keep the whole thing rigid and square during further assembly. The pins and rubber bands were used to pull in the side panels while the aliphatic glue set. All of this was done with the cabin on the boat so that the correct β€˜dry’ fit converted to a permanent fit. Part 2 will continue with the addition of the front
    window
    panels and roof.
    9 months ago by robbob
    Forum
    Uploading pics
    Hi John, Your PC should have a Card Reader on the front for various types of memory cards. Take the card out of the camera and plug it into the appropriate slot in the reader. it will only fit in one and only one way round. The PC should recognise it and display a small pop-up asking what you want to do with it. Click on 'Display in Explorer' (or similar wording) and the card will appear as a directory in
    window
    s Explorer. You can then copy the photos to any drive / directory that you want. Cheers, Doug 😎
    10 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    CNC boat kits...?
    We used a package called aplicam, it suited all the machines once, you told it the machine zero settings it worked it all out for you. And all we had to do was put dimensions on to the pdf files, or trace using a graphics tablet. It was the best system I used in all my engineering life from school to retirement. I wish I had a copy of it now, it was originally DOS operated in the 70's, and when I retired it was up to
    window
    s 10. Cheers Colin.
    10 months ago by Colin H
    Forum
    1950s sea commander refurb.
    Thanks for all your comments and input. What i really need now is a copy of the templates sheet so that i can cut some new parts to replace some of the missing ones . I have ordered a new rudder, and new plexi glass for the
    window
    s. Already in hand is an Mtronics Viper marine 25 amp ESC. 12 volt 7ah battery, Futaba 27 or 40 Mhz RX. Futaba servo. Just awaiting the motor from Doug (RN in Munich). We are going to repaint the Hull in White, Cabin sides in Dark Blue, Cabin roofs in White. The decks will be left as my dad made them, just cleaned and a fresh coat of varnish. the inside of the hull is well sealed already with bitumen (original) which is still allright. Next stage start rubbing down the hull ready for the glass cloth and Ezekote resin. at least i can do this indoors in the warm, workshop too d*** cold. Thats all for today shipmates, more to come, Cheers Colin.
    10 months ago by Colin H
    Response
    Holy SMOKE !! Video, Tin Can Madness
    Hi Joe, When you click on the Media File icon have you ever noticed the [Download] button in the top left corner of the media
    window
    !!?? 😲 Click on that and you are given the choice to Open or Download the file πŸ˜‰ BTW: to answer your question above - No scale railway at all! I intend to use the loco smokers in RC conversions of 1/350 scale plastic navy ships, such as; HMSs Ark Royal, Colossus, King George Fifth, Prince of Wales, Exeter, and KMSs Bismarck and Graf Zeppelin. As well as RMS Titanic and my 1/128 HMS Belfast and Graf Spee. Two more perhaps for my Southampton tug. Have used them in the dim and distant past for my 1/72 scale RN destroyer. Built a little RC pulse decoder using CMOS chips followed by a transistor driver to switch a relay supplying the smoker coil. See pics of self etched decoder board. The other three outputs are for various lighting effects and destroyer 'Whoop whoop' siren. 30 years old now and still going 😊 The smokers work pretty well just using the capillary action of the thin glass feeder tubes. So no wick to come into contact with a a hot wire coil 😊 They were mounted on a bridge across the cap of a large spray can which I used as the oil tank. Exhaust used the chimney effect of a 10mm alu tube running up the funnel. I'm also still pondering how to turn the usual white steam/smoke black! Cheers, Doug 😎
    10 months ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
    I have just visited their site again and they do not show much to do with the boats they have for sale. All I see is the 46" RAF Crash Tender and the Police Launch that just has a picture and no other information. They show no prices, I was also under the impression that they had several models in their list for sale. I do have the 46" Crash Tender I purchased at Wings'n'Wheels about three years ago. I din't find their site that informative other than for the Crash Tender. My kit doesn't even have the
    window
    s and decals that is says and shows in the descriptions. I'm very disappointed really. I will get round to building it one day though. As I will the 34" I bout back in 1994 from Aerokits.
    10 months ago by BOATSHED
    Forum
    HMS Campbeltown 1941, 1/96 scale
    Hi Doug, Very sorry, no photos, I was a teenager sailing dinghies in the Medway in the late forties when I saw Manxman and I don't think I even had a camera in those days. My father was on the staff of T.S. Arethusa ex "Peking" at Lower Upnor and we lived in a flat over the ship's swimming pool, right alongside the river. I had a wonderful view of Chatham Reach from my bedroom
    window
    . There were so many ships laid up in the Medway and adjoining creeks at that time., taking the wind from us as we raced our dinghies from the Medway Yacht Club. There were long trots of the wooden hulled inshore sweepers, numerous destroyera and all sorts of support craft, there was even an old coaling hulk in Sheerness Harbour, but I'm afraid the passage of time means I don't remember names. Manxman stuck in my mind though, being a little different. Those were the days when we had a navy!
    11 months ago by Nerys
    Forum
    Sea Queen Frames
    Well , I'm sorry to say our fears were correct because the first of the two plans (Sea Commander) arrived this morning and as others have found the high quality drawings are absolute SH*T 😑 I think all curved lines were hand sketched by someone with very shaky hands 😲 I shall try and attach some pics. The first shows his attempt at the front
    window
    s A scan of his efforts is at the top , the correct drawing is below it The second picture is his attempt at the rear deck . One edge is a hand drawn wiggly line that should be straight . The drawing is too high, and the two sides should taper in towards the back . His drawing has one tapering in towards the back but the other side tapers outwards The third picture is a scan of one of the frames which is folded in two so as to check that both sides of it are mirror images . They are not even close So I will wait for my second plan to arrive (Sea Queen) which I expect to be no better and then put in my claim for not as described Drawn to a high standard ? what a joke
    11 months ago by donrecardo
    Blog
    Painting
    Well it is nearly Christmas again and time to go to my testing river in Hungary. This boat will not be ready but I hope to complete the Police Launch this trip. I have started the painting process on the Pilot Boat. Very early on I had a dilemma. When is the correct time to paint. As I generally use rattle cans and an airbrush, I think it best to paint prior to major assembly. I am still not sure if this is the correct approach but I am concerned with masking an assembled unit. I hope that the glue does not ruin the paint finish when I put it together. It is a bit difficult spray painting this time of the year due to the fumes. I spray in the garage with the door open but I am always concerned about air temperature. The finish looks good so perhaps this is not of great concern yet.πŸ€“ I will now leave the hull to dry prior to applying the lacquer. I have completed the insides of the bridge and rear room and will start to assemble this part next prior to masking and painting the outside walls. I have bought a roll of special low tack clear film to protect the
    window
    s and frames. I hope this works. I have used the same film to cover the instrument panel which so far seems to be staying on well. I think that these models by AeroNaut are really well designed. it still amazes me that the model looks so natural even though it is made generally from flat thin sheets.πŸ˜‰ I will attach the deck next and then start on the main structures. Happy Christmas to all.
    12 months ago by MouldBuilder
    Forum
    KD Perkasa 1/24
    Oh yes there is!πŸ˜‰ Just click on the Adobe Icon, when the large version appears click on [Download] in the top left corner.
    window
    s will ask you if you want to Open or Save the file. (Doesn't seem to matter how many times I explain this it is still FAQ Number 1!) Cheers, Doug 😎
    12 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    steam water pump
    I would suggest you go on to eBay, and then type in Microcosm Steam engines in the search
    window
    ,this will take you to a Chinese Company who make numerous steam engines, at very reasonable prices plus lubricators and mechanical water pumps for various engines. Let me know how you get on. I willpost youa photo of an engine with a pump fitted, one of Microcosm's engines, they do boilers as well.
    12 months ago by GaryLC
    Forum
    How to view and/or download posted PDF files :)
    Mornin' John, Where is this mysterious "My Pictures" button?
    window
    s Explorer on a PC? File Manager on some other device, e.g. Dumbphone or Tablet? Android or Fruit? 😁 Cheers, Doug 😎
    12 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    How to view and/or download posted PDF files :)
    Hi All, This is one of the most frequently asked questions, I also learned the hard way, by fooling around with the mouse keys and looking closely at what then appeared in the Media Gallery display
    window
    πŸ˜‰ So here's how! 😊 Just left click on the Adobe icon in the post so that the Media Gallery opens with the larger icon. Left click on [Download], in the top left corner of the media gallery
    window
    .
    window
    s will then ask you if you want to Save or Open the file. left click 'Open', your pdf reader will open it. If you have more than one pdf reader installed the
    window
    s box may ask you 'Open With' ... your choiceπŸ˜‰ You can then read the file and, if you want, save it to wherever you want using your PDF reader App Save command. If you are using a 'Dumbphone / Tablet' or a different Op System - I don't know and can't help πŸ€” I don't! BTW: the site always shows 'Adobe' regardless of which PDF app you actually use. Personally I use Nuance Power PDF as it has many more useful functions, including editing and conversion to Word doc and other formats, and no (as yetπŸ˜‰) security weaknesses! Once installed Nuance also enables you to simply convert many other file types to pdf, e.g. all the usual MS Office stuff, DOC, XL* etc 😊 Cheers, Doug 😎 BTW: this also applies to any other file appearing in the Media Gallery; e.g. photos, so you can download and store them for future reference 😊 All you then need is an App on your device that can read 'em, that's your part folks 😁
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Aeronaut Pilot Boat
    Hi Peter It seems so long ago and I can't remember exactly how I did it. However, I used canopy glue (which dries clear) to stick the glazing to the
    window
    opening as centrally as I could. Any gaps were successfully covered by the metal trim, which I fitted before the canopy glue dried so I could reposition the glazing if required. Sorry I can't be any more specific but the end result was 'gapless'. Steve
    12 months ago by cormorant
    Forum
    Aeronaut Pilot Boat
    I have this model 3/4 finished. Unfortunately I have lost one of the metal
    window
    frames. I am at a loss as to the best way to make suitable replacement that won’t be to obvious, any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.
    12 months ago by glyn44
    Forum
    Ship rudders
    Hi Toby, Yep! Cos this website stretches them to fit the Media
    window
    that opens when we click on the pic icon. When I realised that I stopped using the mobile (Samsung J5) camera. Imagine the size of the Media
    window
    on a 24" full res display 😲 and a 4Mpix pic stretched to fit! Where on ebay do you get these bits? it's a good idea to post the link when you mention sources - otherwise we have to hunt! Whatever; watching the build with interest, particularly the rudder as I have a similar rudder to make for my ancient fish cutter restoration / conversion. Cheers, Doug 😎 BTW: if you right click on the photo, when the pic has opened, and then on Show graphic a + sign may appear in the cursor, which means you can expand the pic. Yours look much better when I do this. πŸ‘ BTW2; I like the 'saluting red tadpole' in the middle 😁😁
    12 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Ship rudders
    Evenin' Toby, Mobile has a ~6" screen, I'm using a 24" display! You need to set your mobile cam to max possible resolution. The website blows all pics up to fit the Media
    window
    . Lo res pics then look very blocky. Tip for all; basic problem is the size and quality of the micro lenses in phone cameras. All the pics I post here I take using a Sony Cyber Shot with a decent size lens at 15 or 20 MPix so sharp remains sharp on the site. What are we looking at anyway??😲 Doug 😎
    12 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    My other hobby
    Just recalled one of my weirder experiences on a commercial flight! Was also on the memorable trip to Uganda end of the 80ies, just after idi Amin had left the stage! Was on a hop from Nairobi to Kampala (Entebbe). Aircraft was a venerable Boeing 727of Kenya Airways. Had a funny feeling climbing aboard as I saw the oil streaks over the wings and underside of the fuselage. The smell inside and state of the floor was more like a public toilet than a commercial aircraft.😑 After taking my
    window
    seat I was joined by a large 'native' Momma, who took up the remaining two seats in the row, and then I realised why the floor was as it was.😲 She plumped herself down with a big grin all round and carefully settled a large wooden crate with slats on her expansive lap! The crate was full of LIVE CHICKENS!!!!!!!!!!!! At first my ghast was absolutely flabbered😲 I expected that next someone would start building a fire to roast one, but it turned out to be quite funny and even useful! When the 'In flight meal' arrived it looked to me like old British Rail sandwiches (banana shaped) that they had sold on around 1960! I spent the rest of the flight feeding them to the chickens to the delight of 'Momma' and others around us, not to mention the chickens 😁 If you fly around long enough, and to off beat places, all sorts of odd things can happen! πŸ˜‰ Priceless memories 😊 Cheers all, Doug 😎
    12 months ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Building my Carina sailboat from scratch
    Tag Helmut, Just left click on the Adobe icon so the Media Gallery opens with the larger icon. Left click on [Download], top left corner of the media gallery
    window
    .
    window
    s will then ask you if you want to Save or Open the file. left click 'Open', your pdf reader will open it. You can then save it to wherever you want. If you are using a 'Dumbphone' - I don't knowπŸ€” I don't! Cheers, Doug 😎
    12 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    All hooked up, nowt happens...
    Hi Martin, maybe! Maybe not! You might be lucky. Check the RX with just a servo plugged in somewhere. Then try setting up the ESC according to the instructions I sent. Basically all you have to do is tell it what type of battery you are using. Then it sets the correct 'Cut Off' voltage. BTW: since this is a 'One way only' ESC before you switch the system on make sure the throttle stick is pulled right back. Otherwise the motor will start up straight away. Mind yer fingas!! 😑 Also check that the throttle channel is not reversed at the TX - like most Futaba sets for some crazy reason - or again the motor will start up with the throttle pulled back. PDF: as Steve says; click on the Icon, then on [Download] in the top left corner.
    window
    s should then offer you the choice of 'Open' or 'Save'. Click 'Save' and
    window
    s will ask where you want to put the file. Cheers, Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Media
    more money than sense
    last pictures l posted l painted the wave princess l changed my mind and decided to go for some planking on the decks and cabin roofs l have also done a little bit of tarting up using some brass welding rod and brass tube l am quite pleased with the out come so far. these piccys are about a month old now so she has had a god rub down and given six coats of clear varnish. l will post more piccys when l have installed the
    window
    s and frames.
    1 year ago by jimdogge
    Forum
    Wild Duck Sailboat article
    Mornin' John, Hows things 'Ol Mate'πŸ˜‰ Basically on a PC the 'Photos' App built into
    window
    s 10 should do the job. Pic shows the opening
    window
    displaying the last photos I downloaded / Stored. i haven't experimented much with it yet but it should find any photos / pics on any drive, stick or memory card on your PC. If you are using a Smartphone I don't know, although most seem to have a 'Gallery' function built in! it will depend on which phone you have and which operating system it uses. Best thing to do there is look at the Apps already installed or in the Google or Microsoft App Stores. More later when I've fiddled with the 'Photos' App a bit more. Better shift to a new thread then as well, afore we're arrested for hijacking😲 (again😁)! At the moment I'm putting the finishing touches to Colin's Taycol Supermarine. Just reassembled it with new bearings and ran some tests using my prototype converter board. Runs fore and aft perfectly on a normal brushed ESC.😊 Will update the 'Supermarine Resurrection' blog shortly. All the best, Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Wild Duck Sailboat article
    Hi PJ, The reader is HTML5 and not a pdf file unfortunately. The reader does have a print command, where you can also select page ranges, but when I try it the prints come out oversize so that there's only about a third of the page actually printed. And yes, I've b******d about with all possible printer settings (on the 3 printers available to me) all to no avail. Seems that the reader App overrides my own printer drivers!😑 Best solution I found up to now, and used this evening to print an HMCS Snowberry conversion article I found in the same issue, is to use
    window
    s 'Snipping Tool' to copy the pages only. Problem with Print Screen is that you also get all the system / app junk around what you really want! πŸ€” Cheers, Doug 😎 BTW on my keyboard the command is [Strg,Druck/S-Abruf] πŸ˜‰πŸ˜
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Videos
    Shouldn't make any difference John! The 'Save or Open'
    window
    box (!) comes from the operating system of your device. The box includes an 'Open with' option drop down box which displays the PDF handling programs available on the device. What are you using? PC or Dumbphone? Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Nuance is NOT free like Adobe Reader, but much better πŸ‘ BTW; if you install Nuance Power PDF and uninstall Adobe Reader all your pdf files will automatically be opened by Nuance!
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Videos
    Oh dear oh dear oh dear! How many times have I explained this 😲 (So often I copied the text into a Wordpad file 😁) All you have to do is Just left click on the Adobe icon so the Media Gallery opens with the larger icon. Left click on [Download], top left corner of the media gallery
    window
    .
    window
    s will then ask you if you want to Save or Open the file. left click 'Open', your pdf reader will open it. You can then save it to wherever you want. If you are using a 'Dumbphone' - I don't knowπŸ€” I don't! BTW: I use Nuance Power PDF, much more versatile than Adobe and without the security weaknesses! Cheers, Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Media
    no name
    made from a krick felix launch kit.As usual i have made slight changes especially in regards to the final finish of medium oak stain. The original
    window
    s were cut from a sheet using templates provided and some did not fit as they were on the small side.i used some plastic sheet i had to make my own replacements.I also changed the prop coupling for a universal joint(i always do) I prefer the less is more approach to some models.
    1 year ago by keithtindley
    Forum
    34'' RAF Crash Tender
    window
    s
    This was supposed to be a full and true restoration according to the blurb given on our trip, I thought at the time it looked a bit too blingy. But wow what a great trip, and a tribute to the people who served in her and the lives it saved. Cheers Colin.
    1 year ago by Colin H
    Forum
    34'' RAF Crash Tender
    window
    s
    Hi All Looking for set of
    window
    s for the 34" RAF Crash Tender...have search the WWW but failed to find any...someone was making them a while back..does anyone know of a supplier. Thanks in advance Mike
    1 year ago by Flying-Flea
    Forum
    34'' RAF Crash Tender
    window
    s
    Hi Colin H I bet they didn't have interiors like your photo. I wrked fo David Brown and we used to own Vosper I can only remember some of the cabins detail.
    1 year ago by Ianh
    Blog
    Painted and part rigged
    Made some sails. Painted the hull, add some stickers for
    window
    s. Have tried to do the rigging but will most likely need to change this. Things to do include the RC Box servo operation etc.
    1 year ago by CB90
    Forum
    34'' RAF Crash Tender
    window
    s
    Correct Colin, πŸ‘ BRITISH POWERBOAT COMPANY 64ft HiGH SPEED LAUNCH TYPE 1. 1936 - 1947. http://www.rafboats.co.uk/gallery/102/ Cheers, Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    34'' RAF Crash Tender
    window
    s
    Absolutely Martin, πŸ‘ As I did with my Sea Scout above, with 3mm tinted perspex. There are such wonderful crystal clear acrylate plastics available these days in various thicknesses from 0.5mm up, and scratch resistant, it's dead easy to make super
    window
    s. Takes a bit more time and effort that's all. Just use the frame 'oles as a template to mark up the
    window
    'glass'. If 'time is of the essence' (as the lawyers say) then just buy an ARTR or RTR in the first place. Cheers, Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    34'' RAF Crash Tender
    window
    s
    Yes, 102 is a different boat altogether. Nice prize though, Colin. Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Forum
    34'' RAF Crash Tender
    window
    s
    I had a ride on it 2 years ago, 102 was the number on the boat. I think it might have been an HSL. Sorry for the confusion but it was advertised on TV as a fire boat rescue launch. I won the ride with a local radio station phone in quiz while on holiday in Somerset. Cheers Colin.
    1 year ago by Colin H
    Forum
    34'' RAF Crash Tender
    window
    s
    Really, chaps, make them! it's piss easy. Come on, why should everything be available off the shelf for you? A sheet of 60 thou. Plastikard, a piercing saw (which, as modelmakers you should have anyway) and a few evenings or a weekend of free time. Get the frame how you like it and then scribe round the inside onto a piece of thin Perspex and cut that with the same piercing saw, cleaning up with Swiss files. The cheap Lidl's diamond dust ones are very good for plastics as they don't tend to leave cut marks. Colin, are you sure there's a crash tender restored? As there were only 2 built I find that very unlikely. Cheers, Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay


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