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>> Home > Tags > acrylic

Small plastic joinery glue by Hybrid Petty Officer   Posted: 12 days ago
If you have any plastic that needs glueing and waterproof and only has a small contact point the stufff to use is something called plexsis acrylic comes in a 2part compound and mixed in the nosel as it is squeeze out. It's the best thing out there. I build super yachts for 20 years now for the rich and famous and we use a lot of it on boats that are in the 20 to 30 million prise range . There are some different types rock hard. To ones with a bit of flexibility all dry with in 10 to 15 mins thanks for reading and I do hope this will help people with problems ..... master b Wright

Wheelhouse roof detail....and a paint problem ! by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
HI Rob, yes an airbrush is the way to go, I have 2, a normal airbrush and a mini spray gun for large areas, get my paint made up at an auto paint shop in Stockport, take the colour you want and the match and mix, either ready to spray or plain acrylic paint. P.S. Get a compressor with a tank, no spluttering and a constant flow of air

Sweet❤️❤️❤️Heart by Grandpa Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
[Score: 8/10] 24"/1200g Sweet❤️❤️❤️Heart Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 30mins Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type) Geared to a Graupner (2 Blade X Type) Powered by NiMH (7.2v) Batteries - Comments: 18" of Ice covers the pond so much of the information requested must remain blank. The boat has only seen the bathtub ! No leaks. Stable and balanced. Paint is acrylic, clear-coated wood is mahogany. This is a Nor-Star Kingfisher kit with some alterations and added details. Looking forward to posting a video of the boat running on the lake in April after the ice leaves.

The life rings. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
The white metal life rings supplied in the fittings kit not only look flat and uninteresting but more than that they weigh in at 57 grams individually and along with the rest of the metal fittings above deck will raise the centre of gravity quite a lot and may affect the roll of the hull on turns. Well that’s my theory anyway and I’m using it to justify replacing them with something lighter and more pleasing to the eye. I found some plastic ones on eBay that were roughly the same diameter for a couple of pounds each that looked ideal. The rope detail needed to be added to them to replicate the originals and this was done with some nylon cord that I superglued into slots filed into the circumference. I then wound seven turns to form the quadrants, securing each turn with a spot of glue and ensuring that the ends all arrived on what will be the underside of the rings. They were then sprayed with a couple of coats of white acrylic and the red bands brush painted. The weight of the new life ring is 19 grams, exactly one third of the metal one and it looks, to my eye, a million times better 😁 To locate them on the engine room roof I cut some 3mm plasticard wedges and superglued them in place, the actual fixing will be two small screws from the underside of the roof. The white metal ones will make ideal ballast weights if I need to make any adjustments 😉

Anchor Chain by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Steve, I have in the past painted my chains, using acrylic paint. I watered down the paint, very thin verscosity. I then dipped the cain just for a few minutes then pulled it out and left it to dry It did work but I also left 2 meters length of brass chain in sea water and it did oxidize nicely. I guess it all depends on your choise. I've used both techniques, with success mind you. As for my tug I've almost completed it, I'm waiting on some glue. I ordered from CMB, I should be recieving it in the post by friday. Then I'll be able to glue together my superstructure. And finish that boat. I'm also working on my Box Barge. which is completed but not sealed or resined yet. As for the Pilot Boat it's in the works, Just have to clear it with the wife of course! I really admire yours as you did a great job on it. I show it to the wife a bunch of time, giving her hints that the next project I want....👍 PS. I tried seeing the video but, didn't see which one it was. I have seen the night time video you made awhile back.

Anchor Chain by cormorant Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Ed. I was thinking of painting it, but how to do it with such small links? My first thought was thinned down acrylic and dipping it several times to try and get and even coat. What do you think? Steve PS. How is the tug and did you decide to build the Pilot Boat in the end? This is mine at a recent evening regatta v=4pTQgjg8ZuY

The fire monitors by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
The fire monitors are supplied in three pieces that need to be assembled, there is the pedestal, the main body & handles and the discharge nozzle (my descriptions, they may have a proper technical term!) 🤔 Before assembly all the parts were filed smooth, and cleaned with my ‘suede shoe brush’ to remove flash and blemishes and to give a key for subsequent paint. I felt that just glueing the main body and discharge nozzle together would not be sufficiently strong so I bored out the centre of each and inserted a 4mm threaded stud to pull them together, some threadlock on the stud and then some filler at the join produced a good result. The hole at the end of the discharge nozzle also looks more authentic. The pedestal was also bored out at both ends, the lower end for a 3mm stud and for a 2mm threaded stud at the upper end. The arms need to be carefully bent to the correct angle, you only really get one attempt at this as the white metal will not stand repeated bending and will probably fracture quite easily. I also added a small 'lever arm' feature to the bottom of the pedestal that appears in some photographs of the real item, this was finished with a hand turned brass knob. The finished parts were sprayed with one coat of grey etch primer, a coat of white primer and finally two coats of Halfords ‘Toolbox Red’ acrylic gloss. I assembled the two pieces when the paint had hardened and put a dab of red paint on the top fixing nut. The handle ends will also be detailed with some black paint or perhaps some black heat shrink.

Spraying the ‘anti fouling’ by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
I have seen examples of this boat with a bright red gloss finish for the anti-fouling and as nice and shiny as it looks I have decided to be true to the original colour scheme as much as possible. Red oxide primer is a very close colour match to anti fouling paint, apparently, so I found some Simoniz red oxide paint on eBay at a very good price. I’m led to believe that one paint maker (Holts ?) makes the same paint for Halfords, Simoniz and others, it’s an acrylic paint with a matt finish so there should be no compatibility problems. Masking off the hull with a couple of layers of newspaper is quick and easy and it’s ready to go into the spray booth. First coat on and it’s looking good, second coat after 20 minutes or so and I’m really happy with the results and the Simoniz paint is perfectly compatible with the Halfords primer. For good measure I’ll spray a third coat after the first two have hardened overnight, I’ll give the surface a very light key with a fine abrasive pad first. Then it’s on to the rest of the hull with the black gloss.

Windscreen and finishing by manyboats Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
The windscreen can be tricky. I used the .5mm PVC with polystyrene strips cut to shape and glued to the bottom edge. Had to use a perspex solvent/cement for that as not many glues are compatible with both plastics. The mast has a pin in the base and along with the side slots holds the screen in place for glueing, first with pva and then flushed with white acrylic gap sealer. The top of the mast is secured to the screen with a small screw. The moulding on the top of the screen is an ‘H’ section moulding heathen softened for bending, with a strip of veneer laid in the top and fixed with varnish. Finally the name and Fairey symbol were printed on decal sheet and varnished in place. The first trial on the water was with an 11.4V lipo which went OK but i thought it could do with a bit more oomph, so ordered a 14.8V and that proved to be just right for a realistic scale speed, and it handles beautifully. Being single motor and rudder it doesn't have a very tight turn at slow speeds. Not too good for steering competitions! Too bad but good for just buzzing around. The figures were built up with balsa and wire covered and sculptured in Fimo. All in all I'm quite happy with the results. Definitely better than my first attempt; B/W photos.

Strips by manyboats Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
The pictures are slightly out of sync but no matter...Now ready for the chine (cedar) and spray rails from triangular section plasticard strips glued with rubberised cyanoacrylate. Paint used was auto acrylic spray cans; lots of filler primer sanded back and a couple of topcoats.. I thought masking the waterline would be a problem but using thin lengths of blue masking tape to get the line then adding full width with paper mask, it worked out fine.

Priming the hull. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi chumbucket. Thanks for the warnings, all good advice 👍 Fortunately I have had no problems with paint incompatibility, all the paint and lacquers I am using are acrylic based. Besides, I always do a test piece first to make sure. Rob.

BRIDGE WINDOWS by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Have a look on ebay for acrylic sheets, comes in different sizes and thickness, also do you have a company that does window tinting, this is a self adhesive film, ask for a few off cuts, they come in many tints so plenty of choice Mark

BRIDGE WINDOWS by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
There are acetate sheets available for modellers. Many of my earlier Aerokit models used this but over the years the UV light causes the acetate to turn yellow. I have some more recent supplies that could be acrylic. I have never seen any with tinting. From my own experience some plastic takes to spilt ink etc very well so you may be able to tint your own with a very weak Dylon type tint. Commercially photographic studios use acrylic plastic sheets which are UV safe. If you can source a supply that is thin enough for the scale of the model you are building this works well. I have used on my Sea Queen to good effect as it is the same thickness as the plywood frame.

Paint types by Haverlock Admiral   Posted: 4 months ago
Two pack epoxy is the toughest!! It largely depends upon many factors what are you going to be doing with it. For a scale gently handled model acrylic is fine for something to be handled roughly then enamel ( or cellulose ( if you can find it)). Just remember that the surface your painting on counts cellulose onto enamel will "pickle" acrylic you can paint onto just about any finish. Seal it all with an acrylic varnish.

Paint types by robtroi Lieutenant   Posted: 4 months ago
Acrylic paint or Enamel what is best for painting your boat? 💭