Hi Scotty Welcome to the site. Just had a look on the web about Sanson Tugboat see pic. As you intend to allow the planking to show I suggest you use G4 Pond Sealer (Bondaglass Product) on your hull after you have sanded smooth to shape. You can also use on the inside. It's a polyurethane type so can be easily brush applied in thin coats and sets rock hard as well as being totally waterproof. You can overpaint if you carefully roughen the surface with wet and dry paper. Once the colour is dry and any decals applied you can apply a final coat of G4 over the whole hull and it will be protected against the odd knock etc. As Doug says acrylic is easy and pleasant to use for the upper works and can be sealed with acrylic clear lacquer, I find silk works best on a scale model. Sounds like an interesting project is it a kit? If you start a build blog we can watch your progress and you will be able to ask for help and advice as the build progresses. Please keep us posted on progress. Enjoy the build Dave
Hi Scotty (How are the dilithium crystals doing? 😉) Was expecting one of the vintage boat / Fireboat modellers to jump in here! Since no one did here's my two-pennyworth. Basically I consider the actual paint as cosmetic and not primarily to seal out water. Unless you want to use 2 part epoxy paints, which are not so easy to handle🤔 I used it on my U26 sub and it was pain in the you-no-where. First I would use sanding sealer inside and out. Then EzeKote or ClearKote inside and out. Especially where you want to let the planking shine! 👍 From Deluxe Materials - available Down Under from - see pic. this toughens the hull and gives added protection against knocks and bangs. Many of us then paint the inside with Hammerite, colour and texture, hammer or smooth etc, personal choice. This looks neat and is easy to keep clean. Out side acrylic is the easiest and most pleasant to use; water based so the painting tools are easy to clean with warm water and no dangerous to health or inflammable solvents. Easy to airbrush too😉 When the colour coat is finished and good an' dry you can then apply an acrylic clear lacquer coat, matt, silk or gloss as you wish. Hope this helps, cheers Doug 😎
Built an Italeri PT 109 about four years ago. Power is by a brushed 480 running on 2200 mha 7.4 Lipo. Drive is a single prop and it performs nicely at a scale speed but it can not be run flat out for too long as it will overheat and due to the excessive speed it can get slightly out of shape.. I used Humbrol Grass Green acrylic aerosol for the paint job with dull red from the waterline downwards. I built the model to its earlier spec with a life raft mounted on the bow in place of the later cannon which I believe was used for barge busting. Boaty
I,m in Australia and about to start my first ever timber model "sanson Tugboat" Radio controlled, I'm also making a barge for it to tow, My first question is what paint type should I use, to seal out water. Acrylic, oil based or urethane. the Barge will be painted in colours such as waterline mark etc. the Sanson Tugboat will be clear to see planking. Thanks in advance Scotty
Hope this doesn't sound to much like an advert and me like a salesman ,my work use a company called Tilgear for tools and some materials such as vac forming plastics ,anyway to cut a long story short we needed to buy some balsa and purchased assorted bundles it seemed reasonable to me price wise . e.g. 30 sheet bundle 100mm x 450mm consisting of 10 x1.6mm thick 5 x 2.4 mm thick 5 x 3.2mm thick 5 x 4.8mm thick 5 x 6.0 mm thick £ 29.95 + vat, discount for multiple orders they have bendy ply and acrylic etc. etc. Worth a look. Cheers Marky
Hi Doug The Olympic and Titanic used 5mm and 3mm LEDs in the portholes - all illuminated. The cabins were glazed with overhead projector film, printed with the frame details then individually cut and stuck into each aperture. We had the cabin windows water jet cut so the were all the same size. I used Canopy Glue and the frames had all been acrylic spray painted. All were a close fit and stuck easily. I can appreciate your difficulty with the destroyer, I cheated with my HMS Grenville (1:96), and just cut small holes in the plating and added a dab of black paint to represent. Using the method I described with the frame on the face of the cabin leaves an aperture to glue the window into. A bead of glue will keep the window in place once dry. I find it dries quite clear and rubbery so with sufficient flat surfaces it works very well. Glue'nGlaze is tried and tested if you can get hold of some Dave
Hi Wayne I have used this bonding agent and yes it is expensive. This glue is in a technically superior league to mist products out there. I understand that it is an acrylic glue. I have even used it to bond a nod laminate metals very effectively. It is also very effective when bonding to plastics. Yes it is expensive but it is an excellent glue which out performs anything else I have used. Regards Kevin
[Score: 7/10] 19"/1100g Dolphin 16 (19) Capable of 10mph and a runtime of 20mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 30mm) Direct Drive to a Graupner Speed 600 8.4v (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (7.2v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Chinese 320amp (10Amps) ESC - Comments: This is the Meccano Magazine January 1967 issue plan, built in balsa. I didn't do a build blog as the construction is well covered on the net. Started with an A4 plan and used Excel to enlarge it onto 9 A4 sheets. I chose something simple as I haven't built a boat for thirty years. Really enjoyed the build and re-learning how to overcome the problems that always arise. She is oversized being 19" long and having a 7.5" beam. She sits nicely on the water and begins to plane. Will upgrade the the battery sometime. The decking is worktop edge strip pre-glued but in future will use the unglued strips. The cabin was adapted to extend over the whole boat as there was little space for modern electrics. I will add in and out air vents as the motor will need to breathe. Also, the true model should have an upper deck and windscreen and this will be easy to add sometime in the future. Really surprised and pleased with results from aliphatic wood glue. The finish, which I am not completely happy with, due mostly to my own impatience, was achieved with Ronseal multi purpose wood filler, lightweight fibreglass laminate with Eze-Kote. Paint is Acrylics and Marine varnish. The electrics are: Acoms AR 201 Reciever, Servo Acoms AS 12, Cheap Chinese ,supposedly, 320 amp ESC and 7.2v Nimh battery pack. The Graupner Speed 600 8.4v, bought it cheaply some months ago, was already in one of my boxes and you can see the adaptation required to fit it into the boat. All the Acoms controls I picked up at a boot sale including an Acoms Techniplus Alpha Transmitter on 27mhz. Inside I used Hammerite Smooth Gold as I couldn't buy silver. Modern Hammerite is thin and squeamish and took 3 coats to provide reasonable coverage. One final rant I do like the new silicon wires but they are a nightmare to solder to a motor. I think I will use soldered connectors in future. So there we are, first model in 30 years and now so many models to build and so little time. Lessons learned...... don't be impatient.
@ Vic, hi if the wood starts to swell it was too wet and the water soaked in 🤔 I use a flat dense sponge damped only, wiped against the grain. But in John's case this now seems to be academic. Looks like he's heading towards paint! (Back to the acrylic/ enamel discussion ?? 😲) @ John; whatever,I hope it is still 'fun' to do and you don't despair and jack it in. Cheers 😎
If you put a question out there, you'll get an answer. At least you will from me if I know about it and I know about paint. Why on earth do you say acrylic can be put over anything UNLIKE cellulose or enamel. Cellulose maybe, but enamel? You can put enamel over anything. I can even get cellulose over almost anything with my spray gun, but I know how to mist it on. I suggested enamel because it is so completely harmless. Cellulose, apart from mixed Halfords and Zero Paints is no longer available. Acrylic as you know can react even with itself. It doesn't have good pigments and doesn't cover well. Enamel does. I was well aware that the original post was from a new member, so I figured he deserved a straight answer. Not everyone wants a matt or even a satin finish on a model boat if it isn't a Warship or a service vessel. Would you put satin varnish on a Greavette or a Chris Craft, matt paint on a model of a luxury yacht of any age? Of course not. This nonsense about scale effect is just that....nonsense. A shine's a shine whether smaller or larger, otherwise where do you stop? Martin
Martin The original post was from a new member asking for help on finishing and painting. There are pros and cons with whatever you choose and for a new modeller it can be very confusing. I have used all kinds of paints either brushed or sprayed but now prefer to use Acrylic as (in my opinion) it needs less preparation, dries quickly and is less prone to runs. Unlike cellulose or enamel it can be painted over most prepared surfaces and has a nice flat finish suitable for a scale model boat. Your Sea Urchin looks splendid but when it was built that was the only paint available so the restoration is spot on. Dave
ATF Zuni fleet tug. The model in the 1/48 scale is 120 cm long and has light, smoke and sounds functions. Made from American Navy blue prints. The hull is in fiberglass and the superstructure is in acrylic laser cut.
That's why I counselled caution with anything over acrylic...including, as it happens, acrylic. HRG enamels take a very short time to dry. In fact so much so that they sell a decelerator to slow drying time to maintain a wet edge. Very important when you're painting a narrow boat by hand, although a lot of people then use Owatrol mixed in with the enamel. I sprayed HRG enamel, thinned with white spirit and I sprayed all the parts of a kit car with it. It dried the same afternoon and was handleable the next day with ease. Needless to say it glossed beautifully, being enamel. Spray cans can be OK, but are very expensive for what they re and NEVER use over acrylic as they will wrinkle. What goes in those cans ain't pure water based acrylic, trust me. For one thing, it stinks a fair bit. I've painted enough slot car bodies to know that and what Halfords mix for you is pure, stinks-of-peardrops cellulose, whatever they might tell you. None of them know a fraction of we old painty farts know! If you can afford them, I would recommend Zero paints. They're formulated to be airbrush ready, need no thinning and are to quote the man that makes them, "cellulose only different". I did a 3 foot model narrow boat for somebody and they went on beautifully out of my Paasche Model H single mix airbrush (all you need). In fact I have also used them from my spotting gun (cheap as chips and easy to clean, IF you have a compressor). Zeros mask well too. Problem is he won't post and wants a fortune for courier. I won't play that game when I just had 2 deliveries of epoxy resin through the post. I have recently used Tamiya spray cans that were given to me (yes I really AM that tight) and they are excellent, but then, they really are cellulose. I wish I could buy cellulose, but it allegedly isn't made these days...Hmmmm. Something ending in "...ocks" comes to mind. I'd honestly stick to enamels bought from a car paint suppliers. Their wet'n'dry is cheaper too. Always talk to the organ grinder himself, never his monkey, hence auto refinishers' suppliers. Martin
I would never use enamel over an acrylic based paint as it will over time crinkle. You can use acrylic over enamel but I do agree that Plastikote is best avoided as I have had similar unfortunate incidents with crinkling. If you are painting a fibreglass or plastic surface then the acrylic (not cellulose based) rattle cans will give a quick and satisfactory finish and can be protected with a clear mat or silk lacquer. If you have a wooden hull then enamel may be a better choice as it will absorb the oil and aid the drying process. In my experience enamel can take some time to dry especially if you are banished to an outbuilding due to the smell. Whatever you choose careful preparation and taking your time will give the best result. Happy building and painting Dave