Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info
Login Below
Join Us On Social Media!
Get The Model Boats App!
Apple App Store
Android app on Google Play

Help Support This Website
or enter custom amount

(Non Contributor)

Help support this free
website and donate.

£285 a year is needed to keep the website and apps online. Please consider donating £5 or more to help towards these fees.
All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

Many thanks for your kind support.

Model Boats Website Team

Donation History
November 2018: 7 people
October 2018: 9 people
September 2018: 13 people
August 2018: 5 people
July 2018: 8 people
June 2018: 8 people
May 2018: 7 people
April 2018: 24 people
March 2018: 13 people
February 2018: 6 people

Unique Visitors This Month

Website Members

Terms and Conditions
Privacy Policy

Model Boats Website
Active Users (18)
Login or Register
To Remove This Ad

Login or Register
To Remove This Ad
>> Home > Tags > ballast

ballast tank
A577 by colindavies Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 days ago
[Score: 5/10] 20"/700g A577 - Comments: This model belongs to a friend of mine who had this in his attic where it got damaged and its condition deteriorated, he asked me if I would refurbish it. This is a static model and I have submitted this to help to show the variety of craft that the RAF Marine Branch operated in the 68 years of its existence. The Armoured Target Boat was the brainchild of the Air Ministry's "I've had a good idea" Department. The requirement was for a target boat that could be bombed from the air with practice bombs. The 40ft Armoured Target Boats were developed from the slightly smaller 37.5ft ATBs which had been designed by Scott-Paine and others at British Power Boat in 1932. A couple of years later, in 1934, whilst bringing the first of the 64ft HSLs into service, it was realised by the Air Ministry that the condition of the aircraft had been advancing and that it was necessary to provide additional protection to improve the first type of Armoured Target Boats (the 37.5ft type). T.E. Shaw suggested to Scott-Paine that he should increase the length of the 37.5ft type to 40ft and fit twin rudders. In addition the Air Ministry prepared a new armour plating arrangement which gave separate protection for the crew and engines and coxswain. There was a further alteration to the forward bulkhead which resulted in it being changed to vertical instead of raked fore and aft to overcome the new conditions for bombing. A long series of trials were carried out with the ballast with the 40ft type launch and eventually it was approved. The 40ft thus became the standard type Armoured Target Boat (ATB). The first batch of 15 craft of the 40ft type were ordered in 1935 with further batches being ordered in 1936, 1937 and 1938. A further addition was the introduction of a 3rd engine, this helped to maintain a good speed on the ranges, and helped to counterbalance the the boat as it had been found that in a tight turn the 37.5ft ATB had a tendency to roll over.

A return to the hobby! by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
I also tend to use Sla batteries a model this size should easily be able to take a 12v 7ah battery, some of my models I have to use 2 batteries, 1for ballast or in parallel to give longer running time. The 660 motor should be fine, what size prop are you going to use. Cheers Colin.

HMS Launceston Castle by Joburg-sailor Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 5 days ago
[Score: 5/10] 42" HMS Launceston Castle Single Propellor (3 Blade) Direct Drive Powered by NiMH (7.2v) Batteries Controlled Through Mtronics Viper Marine 15 ESC - Comments: Successor to Flower Class Corvettes. This Castle Class built from scratch. As my first scratch built boat I decided to build with "surf board" keel that carries all the ballast. Model handles perfectly with no "Nodding" and rolling like a toy in rough water. Keel acts as display stand when ashore. Took 2 years to build. Pic's taken at various stages of construction on and off the water.

Brixham trawler IBEX by sam Seaman   Posted: 6 days ago
Edward Thanks - just one question, if your model is twice scale does this mean my tube should be about one inch behind the mast? I aim to complete the boat before testing the weight of ballast needed then like you, allocating most to the keel and some to 'trimming' Sam

Brixham trawler IBEX by sam Seaman   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi everyone, just hoping someone still reads this blog. I am just about to start building Cariad and have decided to take advice from this blog, and fit a detachable keel. This is my second build and first fiberglass hull so being careful thinking it through. it makes sense to design in the detachable keel before fitting the deck but clearly I can only measure the ballast - weight and position - once the boat is nearly complete. So id welcome some idea of the position of the false keel so that I can fit a tube now, and build the keel itself later. Anyone able to advise?🤔

36" Thames River Police Launch by Robbob by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Hi Peter. It shouldn't need ballasting very much if at all. As I won't be able to adjust the position of any heavy components I'll use small pieces of lead to adjust fore/aft and port/starboard trim. Robbob.

First Dip !! by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Hi All The boat had it's first ballast test today. Started with 14 and1/2 pounds and had to add another pound and 1/2. No leaks!!! Canabus

Landing Ship Tanks (WW2) by Nerys Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 17 days ago
I have a hankering to build an LST and although I could probably build a reasonable representation from photos, I would like to get hold of some plans. There seem to be plans available for the smaller landing craft like LCTs and LCMs but nothing for LSTs, the only ocean going landing craft of WW2. Over a thousand were built, all in the USA, despite being a British conception, only 113 were actually built for the Royal Navy. They were 328 ft long with 50 ft beam and were fitted with ballast tanks, similar to submarine types to enable them to run well up onto a beach to unload their cargo of tanks and other vehicles. They only needed 3ft6ins water under the bow to beach. Doors opened and a ramp came down. Really they were the forerunners of the RoRo ferry. My interest in building one is because my late father, a Lieutenant Commander, RNR, captained LST 368. all through the North Africa, Sicily and Italian campaigns. Would be pleased to hear if anyone can help me locate plans. Cheers, Nerys.

Vic Smeed's 'Waterbaby' by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
You don't need an expert. Just go for it carefully yourself. Lead is easy to drill.Re internal ballast I would remove at least part of the deck to looksee.👍

kipper by keithtindley Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 19 days ago
aero-naut mowe 2 kit. my first rc model boat with a few extras.The kit was ok to build but the prop coupling was a length of silcone tube ? it spun off at the first test run.This was the start of me fitting universal couplings to my boats.The company were being mean using a cheap piece of tube.It runs very quiet and smooth but needed a lot of front end ballast .i made this to try and drag my grandson away from his ipad,phone and the game of fortnite .I tried to get him to help build and run it but to no avail.I now am enjoying a second childhood building boat kits !

Vic Smeed's 'Waterbaby' by Xtal Seaman   Posted: 19 days ago
Thanks for the advice. I have changed to a smaller battery and moved it fwrd (it is R/C). I have also tried to see if there is any internal ballast but that's not easy without removing the deck. I think its time to drill the lead keel as suggested. I have found a local expert who says he will do the job! Will report on progress. Many thanks. John

Vic Smeed's 'Waterbaby' by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
As Westie said don't use a Forstner it will take out too much at once. Use the 8 mm evenly both sides. Go gently.👍👍 Also see if any ballast has been added inside. This was often done to reduce heeling . It defeated it's own object as reducing the freeboard still put the lee rail under when heeling. Also what batteries are you using? A change to lighter ones may help. Lipos maybe but they may reduce duration.Nimhs may be a compromise. Or the ABC types All this assuming you are using R/c.

Your ideas on how to stabilize a flat-bottomed freighter. by DennisRobotham Lieutenant   Posted: 22 days ago
Hi Ron, had the same problem with my 8'-6'' HMS Fearless when I first launched it. Took out all the ballast, weighed it then replaced it with a solid steel keel on edge bolted to the underside of my boat.... cured and never any more problem since. Fast boats go past it and it sits still with the wake going along side, just like the real one. It gave the boat a stabilising keel and put all the ballast 60 mm lower than being inside the boat. Good luck with yours, interested as to how it turns out.

"Exuberent" DH142 by Ballast Admiral   Posted: 22 days ago
South Devon Crabber :- Cygnus GM 32' 1/12 Scale. Donor hull 32" fitted out/scratch built. Replica of actual vessel that floundered off Weymouth in 1983. Model build started in 1981 and completed in 2018 !!!

Tug "Joanna E" by Ballast Admiral   Posted: 22 days ago
Partial rebuild project. It is a 1/24 scale Thames Tug which has a superstructure that is wrong and out of scale. I intend to rebuild the superstructure and make it more like a Thames Tug but not replicating any particular Tug as there are too many discrepancies in the build up of the hull which I do not want to alter as I am on a tight budget. I am building her and naming her in tribute to my long suffering partner to my hobbies, Jo. Photo of her as is. More photos to follow as progress is made.