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>> Home > Tags > ballast

ballast
ballast tank
ballast
Krick Police Launch by TheBlacksmith Petty Officer   Posted: 8 minutes ago
Hi nice to see your build, I built a Krick police boat about 18 to 20 month ago and it is my favourite boat to sailI have a 550 motor in it and although it was very fast I experimented with props and I am down to a rough scale speed. The only other mods are I fitted spray rails on the chine and I used a longer propshaft and reversed the position of the motor and batteries, it sits in the water at just the right level with no ballast and planes beautifully. I bought a couple of 5mm. 9v. led's and used one along with a siren kit from the now defunct Maplins. Happy sailing😁

MV TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Water trials have been delayed by trying to resolve the challenges with my HMS Brave Borderer project drivetrain. As those efforts have been halted, waiting for new components, decided to complete the Teakwood water trails. First battery trails used 8 x 1.2 Ni-Mh cells is series, giving 9.6 volts. This was unsuccessful as the battery life was only minutes. Lesson from this is not to buy cheap Ni-Mh cells from an Oriental source. Tried 2 x 7.4 Ni-Mh packs is series giving 14.8 volts. Vessel was far too fast and throttle control poorly modulated. Was thinking of fitting a voltage reducer with this battery layout so could adjust the top speed. Have done this before and it works well. When searching in my box of bits found a voltage step up increaser. Never used this before so rewired the Ni-Mh packs to parallel and adjusted the output voltage to 10 volts to see how it worked. Result is a nicely performing model with an usable top speed potential for emergency, Duration of the first run comfortable exceeded 1 ½ hours, which am satisfied with. The cells are positioned around mid hull to supplement the fitted ballast. From the pictures the model has all the grace and style of the original vessel and sails well. In conclusion, a successful project that justifies the many hours spent in building and refining the model

Happy Hunter by liamduck Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 5 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 44"/7300g Happy Hunter Twin Propellors (4 Blade 50mm) Direct Drive to a MFA Torpedo 800 (4 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 7Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Action P94 ESC - Comments: Found this kit on a well-known auction site and bought it for £100. It is the original Robbe kit and fittings included. There was no command module and so I have devised a way of having working anchors, tow, crane and warning beacon, bow thruster, nav lights and searchlight. It was a bit of a struggle to balance her properly and she needs quite a lot of ballast. A real handful, you might say but she looks really well on the pond.

Wherry hull in GRP by kmbcsecretary Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Hi Dave thanks for your response, I do like the fin idea for the ballast plus there's no ugly bulp sticking out the bottom spoiling the lines. That's a good weight of fibreglass your using so it must be the light not doing you any favours in the picture making the hull look distorted. I have been researching the wherry for sometime now for a future build at 1.12 scale with clinker hull . Cheers Ron

Wherry hull in GRP by mastman Petty Officer   Posted: 11 days ago
Hi Ron Your right about the madhouse cant see how people can run things down on here without seeing the actual goods any way thats another matter. The Picture are not brill the Hull is rounded with no collapses hard to get a picture of the hull. The weight is 300gm/2 the hull is layed up in 2 layers the reason for the fin down the middle is so that no external ballast is needed.

46"Vosper Crash Tender Lesro by Ianh Seaman   Posted: 11 days ago
Have a query here busy with Vosper 46" I intend to put a twin drive in using aP94 electronic controller ex action electronics Some of the design says to use 2 Graupner 900 speed motor these are no longer available any suggestions as I need the gel cells for ballast I think MFA Come 850's might be overkill Thanks

Afloat at last !!! by Ballast Captain   Posted: 17 days ago
But not without incident ! On getting her out of car I snagged the aerial 'Y' on top of 'A' Frame and that said goodbye to that and my dressed ship flags 😭 but apart from that all was good.

HMS Victorious. by Scratchbuilder Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 27 days ago
HMS Victorious,circa 1941. Still very much in the early stages of construction. Most of the internal workings are in place ,but still a few ideas to work on. Thus far she has a working forward aircraft lift. A smoke generator (water not oil). All four rear guns rotate. A working bilge pump. Working next on how to activate the crane. All three engines are powered from a 6 volt battery. All other items mentioned above powered from another 6 volt battery,bot of which provide the main ballast. As I say still a long way to go yet as can be seen.Many of the fittings have to be more authentically painted.

Macedonian by Jerry Todd Captain   Posted: 28 days ago
[Score: 5/10] 86" Macedonian Powered by Lead Acid (6v) 7Amp/h Batteries - Comments: Macedonian was a Lively class 38 gun frigate of the Royal Navy built in 1810. She fought and was captured by the American frigate United States in October of 1812, and taken into the US Navy where she served until 1829. This model is 1:36 (1"= 3'), built of white pine over 3/8" CDX plywood forms, covered with one layer of 4oz glass cloth outside and coated with poly resin inside. It will depict the ship as she was in 1812, before being re-rigged to American standards. Estimated specs: Beam: 13-1/2" Length of the hull: 59" Length over the rig: 85-3/4" Width over the rig: 36" ~ Main yard w/o stuns'l booms. Length on deck: 55" Draft: 6.7" w/o ballast keel, 10.2" w/ballast keel. Height bottom of keel to main truck, without ballast keel: 60.8", with ballast keel: 64.3"

Hot tub trial by Donnieboy Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 30 days ago
Emily P III looks good on the water.Ballast looks right.Nice to have a hot tub close by.I have to blow up a childs pool to ballast my boats.

Hull now painted by Ballast Captain   Posted: 1 month ago
Looking good !!!

H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Looks like everything is set for the first open water test. Sun is shining, ice has gone and water smooth. Intention is to start the open water test program with a repeat of the pool test, except this time with everything wired correctly; the load cell positioned so the “pull” is more horizontal and ballast available to hold the propellers underwater if necessary. Hope these improvements help reading stability. To modify the “pull” arrangements, wrapped a light cord around the propeller shaft struts and fed the loose end above the transom shelf and out over the stern. The load cell was hooked into this and then tied to a fixed grating on the pond side. Started by measuring the electrical requirements for each of the three motors and the propeller bollard pull, using the 2 S battery. Found the bollard pull was up slightly at almost 3 lbs per propeller. Probably because they were now held at a greater depth in the water. Also blew several 20A fuses, so fitted 30, which seem to work. A series of runs showed adequate performance with plenty of spray, although the bow did not lift much onto the plane. The forefoot did raise almost above the water surface. Then tried a 3S battery. Although this was much heavier, the performance improved dramatically. The bollard pull was up to almost 18 lbs per shaft. The bow still did not lift much to a plane, although the forefoot was almost clear of the water at full speed. The battery was located just back from the bow, so it is suspected that it held the bow down. The impact of the transom flap down angle could also hold the bow down, but have decided to leave as is for the time being and avoid the temptation of making too many adjustment at once. Whilst it is still too early to draw definite conclusions, it seems as if a 3S battery will be required. The model sustained some slight damage due to the test arrangements, so will repair that and also fit the 2 bladed Hi Speed propellers. Will then repeat the program and report. Should be able to draw some definite conclusions then on the best power train. Neither of the batteries used, neither the 2 S nor the 3S are ones I would choose for this model. As a result the capacities and weights are not ideal. That must also be remembered in future deliberations.

Emma C. Berry Conversion by carpemoment Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
Lines and shrouds - check. Winch, rudder servo, ballast -- check, check, and check. Ready for her maiden voyage as soon as a last minute repair on the hatches dries.

Vanity, Victorian Cutter by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
The boat in my son's fish pond, being weighted for ballast. And the half bulbs having been cast at the other son's place. Useful lads, both. Martin

Vanity, Victorian Cutter by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Thanks, I used to make top end model furniture for the Home Miniaturists. It's my way of finding a connection with my cabinet maker Granddad, who was a big model boat fan too, in fact he was a founder member of the Victoria Model Steamboat Club. She is 48x9x11 plus bowsprit. Height of rig is about 4 feet also. And yes the fitting on the keel is a piece of ally box section cut in half so it becomes U section, drilled through at equal spacing for the fin keel. Then the U section is screwed with brass screws and Marineflex sealer/adhesive to the keel, which is all solid hardwood. I did my sums and gave up, so once she was waterproof I put her in my son's fish pond and kept piling stuff in until she floated on her marks. Rigging won't be that heavy, but I made an allowance for it. Once it was floating right it turned out to need 14 1/2lbs. of ballast. BUT, that's inside. On the end of a 15" inch(ish) fin it will be less. I have 2 half bulbs cast by my other son in his back garden from my patterns. They will be bolted to the fin and faired in. Cheers, Martin