[Score: 9/10] 60"/7600g Schooner - Comments: Scratch built with mahogany planks on the club's mould. Glass cloth and fibreglass inside and protected with G4 polyurethane resin all over. Uses a sail winch (Hitec) and travelling dolly for the two main sails and a separate arm servo for the foresails. Standard servo for the rudder. Power is from a 6.6v 1000mA LiFe battery. Taranis Tx using two sticks with the sail servos connected via an internal mixer to one stick. Ballast is fixed to the keel with two studs which extend into the hull where a steel bar is attached between both and acts as a carrying handle.
She Floats !!! And on her marks !!! Albeit a slight list to the Port side which is due to her open working starboard side and is a characteristic of the real deal. To say I am chuffed is an understatement after first starting the build 36 years ago !!!
Hi bellman, (from Doug BELL😉) This is another 'How long is a piece of string question'! Only way to find out is to build it, and do a payload test. Put weight in it until it floats to the waterline and upright and stable. I use chunks of lead and lead balls (fishing weights). Weigh the lead. Easiest way is to weigh the empty hull first, then again with 'payload'. Difference is your payload weight for the hull, including all equipment, decks, superstructure etc. Before you glue any other parts to the hull weigh them and subtract from the payload test weight as you go. When compete you should then know how much weight you have left available for equipment. Weigh the equipment; motors, shafts, electronics, batteries etc. Anything 'left over' is the ballast you need. Try to fit it inside as low as possible, the lead balls are good for final trimming. When all is correct simply pour a little resin over them to hold them in place. Only time I fitted ballast outside, a long steel bar keel, was on my U26 sub. But then U Boats had such an emergency 'drop keel' so it looked 'Right'! Happy building, Doug 😎
the motor has been installed along with a drum winch for the sails i have fitted a 2.4 kg 1 mtr yacht bulb for ballast (i will post more pictures later) most of the deck fittings are in place i have started on the masts the biggest job will be of the sails
Trouble is I can't get in to ageing and distressing things. The real boat never had this sparkle when it was launched. I used to run my own car valeting business so I am a stickler for everything being A1 so its alien to me to make things look dirty or used I suppose !!! I'll have to live with it !!! 😊
I’m pleased to report that the fireboat finally got it’s bottom wet at the St. Albans model exhibition last weekend. Sadly it was only in the very small temporary pond that the club set up for the ‘have a go’ boats during the ‘free sailing’ session at the end of the second day, nevertheless it was a good ‘tank test’ for the motor and systems. The boat gets up onto a plane immediately and crossed the water into the hands of a ‘catcher’ on the opposite corner in seconds and when held static under full throttle it’s quite a job to counter the thrust. She sits nicely on the waterline but needs a small amount of ballast to correct a very small list to port, and I also need to extend the rudder servo limits to reduce the turning circle a bit. It’s a shame that there was no one to hand to take some action pictures and video so I only have a few static shots that I took. The St. Albans model show was itself a phenomenal success with public attendances breaking all records over last year and was well supported by numerous other clubs and societies. The glorious weather on both days also helped too! If you attended the show I hope you had as much fun as I did 😁 It was also great to chat with other modellers who inspected my boat in the clubs display room at the show, many of whom have also made this model or have one under construction, it's was a pleasure meeting you all. Robbob.
Hi Ian Looking at the pics it would appear to sit correctly and certainly planes well. If your ballast is forrard it will mean it has to be lifted to plane, at the cost of increased power. If you are still using the Mtronics 600 motor the prop is about right. The specs say 6-12v so running at 7.2 v will probably account for the heating problem. A higher voltage will allow the motor to run at its optimum design speed and cooler. The stall current is 48 amps! I am assuming you have a good a free running prop shaft and tube and the motor and coupling are aligned? Can you post a pic of your prop? Dave
Beautiful! You must have had her on a trailer to the harbour. How was she constructed? I would have liked to build mine to the same scale, but just don't have the space or facility to transport to our little lake. Only way would be to build in two halves. There is a bloke in Hamilton who built a US carrier to 1/96, brought it to our annual regatta. Not very detailed. Weighed a ton - put ballast in after launching. Was very susceptible to wind. Carried it in the back of a ute in a case with red flag on the overhang. Had a set of wheels to get it to launch. Most of my RC models are to 1/96 except Nelson to 1/192. I had intended to build her to 1/96 in two halves, but at some stage she would have had to be joined during construction, and my workshop has a washing machine and drier in it so just not on. What drawings did you use?