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>> Home > Tags > ballast

ballast
ballast tank
ballast
Cracked Battery! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Hi Doug, No, I mean $40.00 for all three Batteries! But, I'm still looking! I found one for $23.33. It's 6 volts at 8.5Ah and it weighs 3.1 Lbs. Which is just the right Ballast for Tug Brooklyn! Also ample power 1.5 hour run.....👍

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Hi A few pics of my modify setup, no pics before hand. Moving weight fore or adding ballast works better than wedges. Only tested the boat by myself and I gave it a real workout. Motor 3639-1100kv, 60A ESC, 5800mah Lipo and 37mm 3blade prop. A 40mm 2blade works better and uses a bit less power. Rudder blade size 30mm across the top, 22mm across the bottom, 45 deep and the shaft 10mm from the leading edge. Sharpen the leading edge and the trialing edge flat. This catches are air in the water and send it to the surface. Canabus

ice thing by Joe727 Captain   Posted: 15 days ago
Jacko, Should work but you might need to put some lead ballast on it so it doesn't just blow away. Let us know how it goes. Joe

New Batteries! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Captain's Log: Well, I order new batteries for the Tug Brooklyn. I placed the order about a week ago. I received them last night! Before I continue let me say this. I was using the Batteries from Tug Serenity AKA Jersey City! Those Batteries are 6 Volts at 2.5 Amps! For a total of two! I saw what I thought were the same battery. Only at 6 Volts at 8 Amps. For a total of 12 Volts at 8 Amps! Well the batteries are huge! I had to take all of the Forward ballast out of Tug Brooklyn! Even then she's a bit bow heavy. But, I really want the extra Power! Because Tug Brooklyn is a 12 Volt Tugboat! Take a look at the Batteries side by side. It's a good thing there's enough room in her forecastle! I'm putting the Batteries end to end and they fit! Oh, the Batteries weigh 6.5 LBS!😱

Electronics,wiring by Joe727 Captain   Posted: 18 days ago
My batteries arrived, could not find locally so ordered through Walmart online. Two - 6volt 4.5AH, wired in parallel to give me 6v @ 9AH. Used inline fuse, prior to switch, then on to the esc, a Dynamite Tazar 15 T marine type. On/off switch will operate from outside so hatch will not have to be removed. Had some real nightmares trying to program this esc! Setup lights would not come on, went through all procedures, slept on it tried ecpvery website, tried again today, nothing. I was about to look into a new purchase, THEN LIKE MAGIC.... I mistakenly switched it to my zBrooklyn Tug mod on th TX which uses the same esc, and it startled me with the motor running and rudder moving. Everything worked great. So I just copied all of the settings into this build on the TX. HAPPY NOW Photo shows the mass of wires that allows me to shift the batteries for final ballasting, they will be tucked away neatly as build is finalized. Regards, Joe

Crack in Seam Update! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
Star date 29.12.18 Supplemental 00.52 😁 I hope it works too Ed. 👍 Don't forget to seal any exposed wood before dunking it again. And I would recommend putting all the ballast and batteries back in (at least loosely) to recreate actual sailing conditions; i.e. water pressure on the potential leak area. I wondered why you went to such lengths anyway. Had similar problems with the restorations of my Sea Scout and fish cutter. I simply soaked the affected areas in resin, inside and out, while holding in clamps. Sand, fill (Bondo?😁), sand, paint and Bob's yer uncle and Fanny's yer Aunt 😁😁 Nevertheless; hope it works for you Ed, cheers, Doug 😎

Crack in Seam Update! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
Captain's Log: Supplemental Well, today was a good day to fix. The leak in Brooklyn's aft end! I scraped off the paint around the skeg area and boss! I then took a piece of 10mm x 110mm plastic. And glued it to the seam. Making sure to cover the area. That was cracked and leaking! I am then going to let the glue set over night. If all goes well, the leak should stop..... I will reassemble her aft end. And do a Domestic Test Tank Test! If the Test Succeeds. I will then repaint the aft end of the tug! And put all of her Ballast back and her batteries! Hope my repair works!!!

U48 Tinplate Clockwork Diving Submarine by mactin Commander   Posted: 25 days ago
Ahoy Mateys, U48,this ones taken me ages due to a brief hiatus brought on by a touch of black death I caught. Anyway another bin salvaged effort made entirely from scrap tin and alarm clocks. No ballast tank in this one,the smaller boats don't need them and dynamic dive on planes alone,or just surface run. Cheers Neil www.mclarenclockworksubmarines.com

Kingfisher by Norstar upgrades by boaty Admiral   Posted: 28 days ago
Ron Great to hear about this. I had a Kingfisher in 1972, powered by a DC Sabre 1.49 marine diesel. The engine was mounted just aft of the windscreen and it needed a a lot of ballast . With such a small engine and the additional weight the performance was mediocre. Is this kit in production again? If it is I might build one . Maybe this time I will fit a brushless running on lipos . This will give the model the performance it deserves. Boaty😁

Hum, Now What! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 29 days ago
Hi Joe, Thanks for the Idea! I'm going to take the boat apart! I have to take her ballast out! Take her batteries out! I think she's leaking from where the prop shaft. comes out of the Boss! So, I'm going to make a flange. Which will be the same size as the Boss. And will cover the Boss! Hopefully this will fix the leak problem! Regards, Ed

Hum, Now What! by Joe727 Captain   Posted: 29 days ago
Ed, Tilt the boat up and just pour two part epoxy into this area. I always do this, first I glue tack the stuffing tube to insure alignment. Then pour in the epoxy usually along with lead bird shot or bb's for ballast. Joe

Brooklyn Steam Tug by Joe727 Captain   Posted: 1 month ago
[Score: 8/10] 36"/11900g Brooklyn Steam Tug Capable of 3mph and a runtime of 120mins Single Propellor (4 Blade 100mm) Geared to a 550 dc (4 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (6v) 15Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Tamar T15 (5Amps) ESC - Comments: I built this from a Dumas Tug Kit, nice kit with lots of detail. Two SLA batteries provide ballast along with lead weight. Actual battery rating is 2 x24 = 24ah..... Gearing is from an older type model aircraft type. ESC is a marine type, forward, backward drive, big 4" Dumas prop. This tug is back in dry dock for addition of led navigational lighting. The initial build was undertaken while I was battling stage 4 cancer, it keep my mind occupied during chemo and surgery recovery, stayed positive! Model building is very meditative to me, try it if you have't, Have fun. Photos to come once out of dry dock.

Upper & Lower Chines by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Doug. Not sure how I've helped you out with your caprail but thanks for the compliment 👍. Mike. The boat gets a lot heavier once the ply skins and planking goes on, I hope it doesn't need ballasting as there's not too many places to hide it away 🤔.

Upper & Lower Chines by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Thats coming on nicely and as you say it looks quite a rigid construction. How much of a bonus is a lightweight construction V an all ply construction as I assume you may have to put some ballast in the finished model. not thtat I have any experience on the subject

Thunder Tiger Avanti by boaty Admiral   Posted: 1 month ago
Has anyone done any significant modifications to a Thunder Tiger Avanti fast electric? I have one and all I have done is to replace the nylon prop with a metal one thus there is very little increase in performance and the reason for doing this was due to the nylon prop throwing a blade after striking an underwater object. Prestwich Model Boats have a suitable replacement motor complete with a better ESC than the existing Ace one and their system can handle up to 4S Lipos instead of the stock set up of 3s . I have located a source of a 4S Lipo which length and width is same as my 3S one but the height is a little more and it will fit into the battery box. To trim it out properly I would have to add some ballast to the starboard side. Due to the electrics including the battery all being in a small watertight box at the stern there is not a great amount of scope for a lot of mods. Boaty😁