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>> Home > Tags > battery mount

battery mount
engine mount
motor mount
rudder mount
battery life
battery pack
battery power
battery voltage
battery mount
H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 hours ago
Once the rudder, propeller and shafts were installed, the position of the motors could be established. A light aluminium bracket to hold all three was fabricated and bonded to the hull. Due to the high speed capability of the brushless motors, particular attention was paid to alignment. Also kept to the shortest prop. shafts that could be fitted to avoid whipping. Although the motor type might change, whatever is best will require a sound electrical installation as the current requirements for each brushless motor could reach 50 Amps. Wired each motor and ESC separately with its own dedicated fuse to give the maximum system protection. There is an extra fuse section allocated for auxiliary circuits, such as a cooling water pump and lights. Will try the original planned layout of 3 x 2835 motors with 30mm propellers and a 2S Li-Po battery first. Am hoping the reduced voltage will also make these motors more tractable. For the test program the three ESCs will be each controlled from an individual Rx channel. Once the final layout is determined, a more sophisticated and flexible control system can be installed. To minimize ballast, particularly around the stern, the battery will be housed as far into the bow as possible. After the test runs the final battery type, size and location can be established. To assess performance, hope to try both 2 and 3S Li-Po batteries. Planning to reduce heat build up by fitting cooling water jackets to the motors, these are easiest to instal at this stage so the wiring or mounts are not disturbed in the future. Have not decided the layout for the water circuit yet, but this easily can be added later. All that is needed now is the ice to melt off our local lakes so tests can commence.

Power Cabling by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Hi Neil, How many fuses do you need??? Remember, wherever you put them you need easy access to be able to change a dud fuse without taking the million screws out and removing the whole deck.🤔 I'm considering using the space next to the repositioned battery, just behind the port propshaft hull exit. Another consideration is on your mounting plate forward, but NOT at the edges as you show in your photo cos you'll never get at them when the deck is on 😉 I'm thinking of a 'bridge' across the middle (above where you have the receiver in your photo) so that the fuses protrude above the main deck. Then you can get at 'em easy 😉 I will also save space by using a UBEC to tap off the drive batt for the RX supply instead of a separate RX battery. Pics tomorrow - I hope! Cheers Doug 😎

happy Hunter by spitfiresooty Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 5 months ago
work on renovating my Happy hunter is progressing but I need to decide on the battery and make location for it in the hull so that I can get the right amount of ballast in before proceeding any further .The question is what battery to use .The Hull has 2 motors fitted with gearboxes ,I think the motors are 540,s but there are no markings on them.I am thinking a 12volt SLA battery but would welcome some advice

46" Firefloat What Motor/Battery by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Hi What type of props are you using(size and number of blades). I see your basic problem is under powered motors and a very heavy battery. I made the big switch over three years ago from brush to brushless motors and to Lipo batteries. With the help on the forum and club members it was a learning curve, but, I would not go back. A 5800mah Lipo battery is in the weight of 450 to 570 grams and would give you a good 1/2 hour run time. A good balance charger and safety bag are the main requirements, also maximum charging for the 5800mah battery is 5.8 Amps(same as the old Nicads). Also a low voltage battery alarm. Your 600 motors can draw up to12Amps !!! Replacement same size motors for your mounts would be 35mm brushless motors, but, you will require two ESCs with a Y connector to run on the same throttle channel. Replacement brushless motors are far more powerful e.g. a Hobbyking 3639-1100kv with a 60Amp ESC on a 4S 5800mah Lipo Battery is 800watts and with two in your boat is 1600 watts!!! Your old motor would in the 100 watt each mark !! I have the same size crash tender, but, with a single brushless motor. I have all the order numbers for the motors etc. and a setup the ESCs if your require. Canabus

Battery Power and Servo Mounting 6 by NPJ Captain   Posted: 5 months ago
Only a short one, as I have realised that dealing with Battery Mounting means I need to deal with changing the Rudder Servo first! (Pic 1) So to remove the servo was easy as was replacing with the better unit. It is by the way much easier to remove the Servo Bracket and then the Servo than leaving it in. Same naturally applies when fitting (Pic 2/3) I had to remember to have the lead coming out on the correct side though! (Pic 4) I had been thinking about whether I should be using proper metal linkages to the rudder mechanism and issues about ‘slop’, but now it looks like there will not be a choice, but let us leave that until later as this is going to be a short session. (Pic 5) In fitting the battery I was conscious that it has to pass in and out of that rear hatch, stay on the centre line and avoid fouling the Rudder Servo...................... So I cut a base plate of Balsa to stick in the bottom of the Hull so making it reasonably flat for the Battery and a Balsa Plank to stop the Battery accidentally moving towards the gear boxes. Before gluing them in place I attached Velcro/ hook and eye patches to hold the Battery in place. (Pic 6 ) There appears to be at least two thicknesses of this stuff, very rigid and strong and the other softer, more flexible and slightly less ‘grab power’ (Pic 7 ). I opted for the lighter stuff as it could be a struggle getting in and out of the Hatch! (Pic 8) I may need to put a loop of something around the battery to assist in removal, but that is for later. I just glued the Balsa in with ‘Gorilla’ glue and laid the battery in to add weight whilst drying (Pic 9/10/11) Next time I hope to concentrate on getting the forward platform loaded and the power linked up. NPJ

Electronics Down Below (5) by NPJ Captain   Posted: 5 months ago
This time I will try to remember to put in the ‘source’ information on the bits and pieces I use........... In the most recent piece I should have included exciters/transducers are Dayton Audio DAEX 25VT -4, 4 Ohms – 20 Watt pair, obtained from Sound Imports Netherlands and very quickly as well. The sound unit is a Mtroniks Digisound 5M diesel sound, available all over the place. Now to look at where I am at. Exciters are in place as high up the Hull as possible, but remembering the Deck level. Used the adhesive pads as supplied after wiping that part of the Hull with Meths and Silicone adhesive to keep in place as well as using the wiring tidies from Modelsport Ltd., for the cabling. (Pic 1+2) Before I start the motor and controller wiring I changed the platform ‘up front’ (pic3) with a piece of thin ply which I have given a couple of coats of varnish to waterproof. Then I thought to myself “why am I waterproofing this when, if it gets that wet, it will have gone to the bottom and be useless anyway”! (Pics 4) However, the platform gives a little more choice in terms of layout of other components and my plan for them is not really settled yet. I am concerned about the stern and possible swamping, but it currently seems the best place for the upgraded battery. (Pic5 ) Whilst talking batteries, I have gone for a separate battery supply for the receiver and hope to use the Bec supply for running other less critical items. Also the fitting of the battery in the stern bay drew my attention to the rudder servo for a couple of reasons. First is I am still considering increasing the size of the rudders and I am assuming that will increase the strain on the servo. The servo supplied is a standard issue and not water resistant so I have gone for an upgrade as shown(Pic6) That gives torque increase of 17Kg/cm over the Hobby Engine S1040C and has metal gears, metal control arm and waterproof for 20grams extra weight. Second is the closeness to the new battery position. So I was going to alter the servo arm setup anyway and the new metal arm suits this well. Maybe my ‘tutors’ will consider all this to be a little ‘over the top’ but I do so enjoy messing......................... New Servo DS 3218 by AYANI from Amazon. (Pics 6/7 ) Following that distraction, back to the front end and the Motor/Mixer placing and wiring. Now a little time ago I drew a plan to see what could go where and it came out that most of the ‘bits’ would go in the front bay with motors to be wired once power was brought forward, followed by the Esc/Mixer. (Pic 8) At that time I bought a P94 dual esc/mixer from Action Electronics and got the 20 amp version to be on the safe side................. My ‘guardians’ did point out this was ‘over-kill’ but I had already got it. Now, when placing the unit on the mounting board I found that the heatsinks made it too high to fit in the Hull! So being a spoilt brat only child I ordered the 10 amp version and as usual it came very quickly from up here in Bangor. ( Will keep the other one for the next project............Happy Hunter??) Unboxed it and it looked just the same, heatsinks and all. (Pic 9/10 ) So at that moment there was a bit of a set-back so I rang Component Shop at Bangor, they said “take the heat sinks off and you have a P94 lite”! Such a simple answer and such a nice chap. (Pic 11 ) Now a quick 'measure up' before I have a glass of wine (Pic 12) and does it all fit...? Well it appears to at the moment! (Pic 13) Next time really going to screw down the components under the forward hatch and wire it up. NPJ

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 5 months ago
Reilly, I stand corrected I see what you are saying, the speed of the boat is just about right, if I fit a smaller prop then I will need a much faster motor to keep it at that speed then I presume the battery will not last as long, in fact that is something I would like to work out, although I am ok with wiring and working out loads at mains voltage etc. my ohms law is useless with DC voltage and mAh Haverlock I had a look at that motor but I see the recommended motor mount would block of the front air holes again (same mout as I have) Canabus thanks for that sounds expensive besides which I have spent out nearly, my pension does not really extend to this hobby, but enjoyment is important. I wonder if the last three words of the previous paragraph is a quote from some famous person I could add to the bottom of my posts😁

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 6 months ago
Hi reilly4 I do not think it is as large as 60mm as it is a three bladed prop, if it was a two bladed one I would agree with you as the blades would be directly opposite each other hence 60mm, but being 3 bladed they are not 90 degrees to the centre point, without taking it off and drawing a circle around it to measure I would hazard a guess it is a 30mm prop. If memory serves me correctly the late Swindon Model Shop which was run by Yan who knew his stuff recommended the 540 motor along with the prop for the size of the boat. I will check the Sea Commander plans as I think it has the size of the required prop listed. Haverlock the motor is rated 4.5 to 15 volts and the battery is 7.2 volt, I would have to run the boat in water to see what the motor is drawing under load, I may get a tad wet trying to keep up with it to read an amp meter, or sink the boat by sitting on it😉 I think the overheat problem was to do with the motor mounting braket covering the front air slots on the motor. However I have a water scoop which I did not fit at the time of building so may retro fit and buy a new motor set up for water cooling, the next question would be where abouts do I fit it?

Windows by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Hi All Still working on the windscreen. Ran the boat, well the hull, after moving the battery forward on the battery mount rails. Only used a 3S battery, but it sat on the water level at full speed. Turning was very good. The CG is 350mm from the stern if that help any of you setting up a Huntsman. Canabus

lipo storage charge by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
As I explained I was talking about charging at the end of my first post. For a novice I do believe video explanations are far easier to follow which is why I made my initial suggestion. I did not look at your first suggestion as it required me to download a pdf file from a source I do not know. The other two sites both suggest it is safe to discharge down to 2.5v per cell - may have been when written but modern cells should be kept above 3v and I try to keep mine nearer 3.5 v. I also see they recommend charging at 2C from storage! If you buy a 3 cell LiPo mine are delivered with an 11.1v storage charge which equates to 3.7v per cell. I did once watch a very long and detailed video made by a developer and manufacturer of LiPo batteries and learn't that at 3.7v the cell was in its most stable state (chemically wise) consistent with long life and storage. If the battery has any charge I do believe the amount of damage will be the same, but perhaps more spectacular if fully charged. Most modern chargers from reputable suppliers will provide a safe charging and storage charge. Providing your charger is setting the right voltages no harm should occur. As they say a video says a thousand words and the one I suggested covered the Imax B6 very comprehensibly.

1/35 Vosper MTB by Tica Lieutenant   Posted: 6 months ago
I would go for a single Brushless solution 1200-1500KV with a 2S LiPo battery, this will help on the amount of weight you have to add to the model.

Electrics are in and working! by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Hi Skydive, can i make a suggestion, lay the battery on its side, get the weight as low as possible, she is a round bilge hull and will be prone to rolling. It might only require a slight trim to the speaker mounting to get it to fit. Regards Mark

PROBOAT RECALL 17 by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Seeing the battery I would expect you could fit a larger capacity without lowering the waterline too much. If you can find the weight of the proposed battery try adding that amount of lead to the model to test. I'd use the existing battery plus a bit of lead etc. I suspect the higher capacity will make for some interesting sailing so you may need your bike clips! There could also be a heat problem so do check the motor esc after a short warp speed run. Please post progress

Layout and Limitations by NPJ Captain   Posted: 6 months ago
Layout and Limitations Although I am really quite desperate to get on and put a few bits in, it did strike me that before I mess the current systems up on the Tug, maybe I should find out how they work. So although I am leaving the Bridge/Wheelhouse until after the Hull layout is resolved, I need to check out what connections are made to what before I detach it from the Hull. So having a look in you see a busy circuit board and a plastic bottle! Pic 12 -16 What is needed is to determine which leads activate which features before I start chopping leads to separate Hull from Bridge. To this end I attached the standard battery and fired up the Tranny. I reconnected the leads that I had unplugged and switched the boat switch to on. Pic 17/18 Action of motors, lights in three sets and ‘smoker’ cables were identified, but I have not found the ‘horn’ yet. So that established what leads went to what and also raised the question for the future ‘what can be used later’. I noted that some cabling groups and routes from Hull to Bridge where given the ‘silicon treatment’ which I intend to reinstate before replacing the Deck. Having established how the setup works and what can possibly be retained, I removed the ‘standard’ battery, unplugged it all again and loaded potential ‘extras’ into the Hull to see how it would sit in the water. Now I can separate the Hull from the Bridge completely which enables me to have a good look at potential layout and consider weight and its distribution. I did in the early days mark the waterline as it was with standard equipment and also the CoG point fore/aft, for later comparisons. Forgot about Lateral but I assume centre line....................... Maybe pointless, but I made a drawing of the Hull and also laid out some of the components that may be used in the Hull itself. Pics 14/15. Currently the weight of these ‘extras’ amounts to 562 grams 19.8 ozs, from which must be deducted the ‘standard’ battery weight 104 grams 3.6 ozs, when considering real differences, so 458 grams, 16.2 ozs and still below waterline So I now have all these bits, the boat in three pieces and I am considering putting up a banner in the garage which would read... All the gear and no idea! Next move will be trial runs on the new motor control set up and checking out the sound system using the Transducers. NPJ

Lights all wired up by GrahamP74 Captain   Posted: 6 months ago
Hi, No I haven't but it's very simple.. The stern Lights are all on the gantry frame. I made a channel in the wood to disguise the wires. They go through a hole in the deck and connect to a 9v battery. The forward lights are all connected to another 9v battery which sits in a mounting on the u derided of the wheelhouse roof. It's very basic but they work and I am more than happy with the effect! The casings for all the lights are scratch built. Sorry it's not very elaborate!