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>> Home > Tags > battery mount

battery mount
engine mount
motor mount
rudder mount
battery
battery life
battery pack
battery power
battery voltage
batteries
battery mount
Battery Power and Servo Mounting 6 by NPJ Captain   Posted: 1 day ago
Only a short one, as I have realised that dealing with Battery Mounting means I need to deal with changing the Rudder Servo first! (Pic 1) So to remove the servo was easy as was replacing with the better unit. It is by the way much easier to remove the Servo Bracket and then the Servo than leaving it in. Same naturally applies when fitting (Pic 2/3) I had to remember to have the lead coming out on the correct side though! (Pic 4) I had been thinking about whether I should be using proper metal linkages to the rudder mechanism and issues about ‘slop’, but now it looks like there will not be a choice, but let us leave that until later as this is going to be a short session. (Pic 5) In fitting the battery I was conscious that it has to pass in and out of that rear hatch, stay on the centre line and avoid fouling the Rudder Servo...................... So I cut a base plate of Balsa to stick in the bottom of the Hull so making it reasonably flat for the Battery and a Balsa Plank to stop the Battery accidentally moving towards the gear boxes. Before gluing them in place I attached Velcro/ hook and eye patches to hold the Battery in place. (Pic 6 ) There appears to be at least two thicknesses of this stuff, very rigid and strong and the other softer, more flexible and slightly less ‘grab power’ (Pic 7 ). I opted for the lighter stuff as it could be a struggle getting in and out of the Hatch! (Pic 8) I may need to put a loop of something around the battery to assist in removal, but that is for later. I just glued the Balsa in with ‘Gorilla’ glue and laid the battery in to add weight whilst drying (Pic 9/10/11) Next time I hope to concentrate on getting the forward platform loaded and the power linked up. NPJ

Electronics Down Below (5) by NPJ Captain   Posted: 2 days ago
This time I will try to remember to put in the ‘source’ information on the bits and pieces I use........... In the most recent piece I should have included exciters/transducers are Dayton Audio DAEX 25VT -4, 4 Ohms – 20 Watt pair, obtained from Sound Imports Netherlands and very quickly as well. The sound unit is a Mtroniks Digisound 5M diesel sound, available all over the place. Now to look at where I am at. Exciters are in place as high up the Hull as possible, but remembering the Deck level. Used the adhesive pads as supplied after wiping that part of the Hull with Meths and Silicone adhesive to keep in place as well as using the wiring tidies from Modelsport Ltd., for the cabling. (Pic 1+2) Before I start the motor and controller wiring I changed the platform ‘up front’ (pic3) with a piece of thin ply which I have given a couple of coats of varnish to waterproof. Then I thought to myself “why am I waterproofing this when, if it gets that wet, it will have gone to the bottom and be useless anyway”! (Pics 4) However, the platform gives a little more choice in terms of layout of other components and my plan for them is not really settled yet. I am concerned about the stern and possible swamping, but it currently seems the best place for the upgraded battery. (Pic5 ) Whilst talking batteries, I have gone for a separate battery supply for the receiver and hope to use the Bec supply for running other less critical items. Also the fitting of the battery in the stern bay drew my attention to the rudder servo for a couple of reasons. First is I am still considering increasing the size of the rudders and I am assuming that will increase the strain on the servo. The servo supplied is a standard issue and not water resistant so I have gone for an upgrade as shown(Pic6) That gives torque increase of 17Kg/cm over the Hobby Engine S1040C and has metal gears, metal control arm and waterproof for 20grams extra weight. Second is the closeness to the new battery position. So I was going to alter the servo arm setup anyway and the new metal arm suits this well. Maybe my ‘tutors’ will consider all this to be a little ‘over the top’ but I do so enjoy messing......................... New Servo DS 3218 by AYANI from Amazon. (Pics 6/7 ) Following that distraction, back to the front end and the Motor/Mixer placing and wiring. Now a little time ago I drew a plan to see what could go where and it came out that most of the ‘bits’ would go in the front bay with motors to be wired once power was brought forward, followed by the Esc/Mixer. (Pic 8) At that time I bought a P94 dual esc/mixer from Action Electronics and got the 20 amp version to be on the safe side................. My ‘guardians’ did point out this was ‘over-kill’ but I had already got it. Now, when placing the unit on the mounting board I found that the heatsinks made it too high to fit in the Hull! So being a spoilt brat only child I ordered the 10 amp version and as usual it came very quickly from up here in Bangor. ( Will keep the other one for the next project............Happy Hunter??) Unboxed it and it looked just the same, heatsinks and all. (Pic 9/10 ) So at that moment there was a bit of a set-back so I rang Component Shop at Bangor, they said “take the heat sinks off and you have a P94 lite”! Such a simple answer and such a nice chap. (Pic 11 ) Now a quick 'measure up' before I have a glass of wine (Pic 12) and does it all fit...? Well it appears to at the moment! (Pic 13) Next time really going to screw down the components under the forward hatch and wire it up. NPJ

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 13 days ago
Reilly, I stand corrected I see what you are saying, the speed of the boat is just about right, if I fit a smaller prop then I will need a much faster motor to keep it at that speed then I presume the battery will not last as long, in fact that is something I would like to work out, although I am ok with wiring and working out loads at mains voltage etc. my ohms law is useless with DC voltage and mAh Haverlock I had a look at that motor but I see the recommended motor mount would block of the front air holes again (same mout as I have) Canabus thanks for that sounds expensive besides which I have spent out nearly, my pension does not really extend to this hobby, but enjoyment is important. I wonder if the last three words of the previous paragraph is a quote from some famous person I could add to the bottom of my posts😁

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 13 days ago
Hi reilly4 I do not think it is as large as 60mm as it is a three bladed prop, if it was a two bladed one I would agree with you as the blades would be directly opposite each other hence 60mm, but being 3 bladed they are not 90 degrees to the centre point, without taking it off and drawing a circle around it to measure I would hazard a guess it is a 30mm prop. If memory serves me correctly the late Swindon Model Shop which was run by Yan who knew his stuff recommended the 540 motor along with the prop for the size of the boat. I will check the Sea Commander plans as I think it has the size of the required prop listed. Haverlock the motor is rated 4.5 to 15 volts and the battery is 7.2 volt, I would have to run the boat in water to see what the motor is drawing under load, I may get a tad wet trying to keep up with it to read an amp meter, or sink the boat by sitting on it😉 I think the overheat problem was to do with the motor mounting braket covering the front air slots on the motor. However I have a water scoop which I did not fit at the time of building so may retro fit and buy a new motor set up for water cooling, the next question would be where abouts do I fit it?

Windows by canabus Admiral   Posted: 19 days ago
Hi All Still working on the windscreen. Ran the boat, well the hull, after moving the battery forward on the battery mount rails. Only used a 3S battery, but it sat on the water level at full speed. Turning was very good. The CG is 350mm from the stern if that help any of you setting up a Huntsman. Canabus

lipo storage charge by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
As I explained I was talking about charging at the end of my first post. For a novice I do believe video explanations are far easier to follow which is why I made my initial suggestion. I did not look at your first suggestion as it required me to download a pdf file from a source I do not know. The other two sites both suggest it is safe to discharge down to 2.5v per cell - may have been when written but modern cells should be kept above 3v and I try to keep mine nearer 3.5 v. I also see they recommend charging at 2C from storage! If you buy a 3 cell LiPo mine are delivered with an 11.1v storage charge which equates to 3.7v per cell. I did once watch a very long and detailed video made by a developer and manufacturer of LiPo batteries and learn't that at 3.7v the cell was in its most stable state (chemically wise) consistent with long life and storage. If the battery has any charge I do believe the amount of damage will be the same, but perhaps more spectacular if fully charged. Most modern chargers from reputable suppliers will provide a safe charging and storage charge. Providing your charger is setting the right voltages no harm should occur. As they say a video says a thousand words and the one I suggested covered the Imax B6 very comprehensibly.

1/35 Vosper MTB by Tica Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 25 days ago
I would go for a single Brushless solution 1200-1500KV with a 2S LiPo battery, this will help on the amount of weight you have to add to the model.

Electrics are in and working! by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
Hi Skydive, can i make a suggestion, lay the battery on its side, get the weight as low as possible, she is a round bilge hull and will be prone to rolling. It might only require a slight trim to the speaker mounting to get it to fit. Regards Mark

PROBOAT RECALL 17 by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 26 days ago
Seeing the battery I would expect you could fit a larger capacity without lowering the waterline too much. If you can find the weight of the proposed battery try adding that amount of lead to the model to test. I'd use the existing battery plus a bit of lead etc. I suspect the higher capacity will make for some interesting sailing so you may need your bike clips! There could also be a heat problem so do check the motor esc after a short warp speed run. Please post progress

Layout and Limitations by NPJ Captain   Posted: 1 month ago
Layout and Limitations Although I am really quite desperate to get on and put a few bits in, it did strike me that before I mess the current systems up on the Tug, maybe I should find out how they work. So although I am leaving the Bridge/Wheelhouse until after the Hull layout is resolved, I need to check out what connections are made to what before I detach it from the Hull. So having a look in you see a busy circuit board and a plastic bottle! Pic 12 -16 What is needed is to determine which leads activate which features before I start chopping leads to separate Hull from Bridge. To this end I attached the standard battery and fired up the Tranny. I reconnected the leads that I had unplugged and switched the boat switch to on. Pic 17/18 Action of motors, lights in three sets and ‘smoker’ cables were identified, but I have not found the ‘horn’ yet. So that established what leads went to what and also raised the question for the future ‘what can be used later’. I noted that some cabling groups and routes from Hull to Bridge where given the ‘silicon treatment’ which I intend to reinstate before replacing the Deck. Having established how the setup works and what can possibly be retained, I removed the ‘standard’ battery, unplugged it all again and loaded potential ‘extras’ into the Hull to see how it would sit in the water. Now I can separate the Hull from the Bridge completely which enables me to have a good look at potential layout and consider weight and its distribution. I did in the early days mark the waterline as it was with standard equipment and also the CoG point fore/aft, for later comparisons. Forgot about Lateral but I assume centre line....................... Maybe pointless, but I made a drawing of the Hull and also laid out some of the components that may be used in the Hull itself. Pics 14/15. Currently the weight of these ‘extras’ amounts to 562 grams 19.8 ozs, from which must be deducted the ‘standard’ battery weight 104 grams 3.6 ozs, when considering real differences, so 458 grams, 16.2 ozs and still below waterline So I now have all these bits, the boat in three pieces and I am considering putting up a banner in the garage which would read... All the gear and no idea! Next move will be trial runs on the new motor control set up and checking out the sound system using the Transducers. NPJ

Lights all wired up by GrahamP74 Captain   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi, No I haven't but it's very simple.. The stern Lights are all on the gantry frame. I made a channel in the wood to disguise the wires. They go through a hole in the deck and connect to a 9v battery. The forward lights are all connected to another 9v battery which sits in a mounting on the u derided of the wheelhouse roof. It's very basic but they work and I am more than happy with the effect! The casings for all the lights are scratch built. Sorry it's not very elaborate!

Aero Kit - Sea Queen by appstore Seaman   Posted: 1 month ago
I purchased and built this kit, did not have any problems but found the supplied brushed motor was inadequate for the performance I required. So installed an overlander T4250 brushless motor with a 45mm prop. changed the battery for an overlander Lipo 4500 mA battery, fusion Hawk 60amp ESC. totally different boat as to the performance. Slight modification to the motor mount was required.

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
OK! I admit (temporary😉) defeat 🤔 Yep, it's the weight and size of the frames of conventional speakers that are the problem. That's what attracted me to 'Paul's' mini transducers in the first place. Southampton goes back on the back-burner, will settle for RX, ESC and battery upgrade for now. But possibilities noted in my Log Book. Must do a Payload Test sometime. Re Build Blogs; I think I'd better finish the Sea Scout first before this all gets out of hand! 😲 next step; fabricate new propshaft and mount the brushless. In between perhaps something on the PT 109. Have all the ingredients assembled now except stern gun; Decision: 20mm Oerlikon or 40mm? Pics on the net show both at various times. Cheers Doug 😎

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade by octman Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
I have an old Southampton , off E.Bay a couple of years ago. I fitted the Components shop mixer, 2x 3400mAH NiMh packs(one for each motor)2 Mtroniks 15A Marine vipers, Technobots diesel sound system and also a Technobots 16 channel sound system. There is not a lot of spare space! I had a problem with the mixer eventually. It worked very well, as I did not think the turning circle in the original form was very good. I took it out eventually and went over to tank steering, which is OK but seems to be more effective in turning one way rather than the other, it's fine in a straight line. I found out after I had removed the mixer that the supposed problem was of my own making. So many wires inside that I was not in fact charging one of the battery packs so it ended up flat. Nothing wrong with the mixer at all! I mounted the engine sound speaker in the lower half of the cabin,where there was just enough room, where the window openings are not glazed(at least on my boat they aren't). Sound was OK but it was a bit lacking in volume, but I may need a higher power speaker, not sure as audio is a non area to me. The 16 channel unit is good in that a micro SD card is supplied with pre- recorded sounds, and instructions are given on how to record your own. The difficulty with this particular sound system is finding somewhere to put the second speaker as the 2 systems cannot be fed into the same speaker. It was a bit faint to say the least,possibly due to the tiny speaker I used. I tried to fit a transducer glued to the underside of the deck but there was no improvement so that is a work in progress. The inside of the hull resembled a very untidy birds nest! CHris

Deans Seaplane tender by epmbcmember Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 3 months ago
Many thanks Dave M. I have got a 2826 brushless motor, a 30a esc and a 7.4 lipo battery, all from Component Shop. I am told nobody makes a motor mount for outrunner brushless motors, or is there a source for them out there somewhere.