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>> Home > Tags > battery pack

battery pack
battery
battery life
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battery voltage
batteries
battery pack
NimH advice by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
Hi Alex They will be connected in series with the positive connected to the negative. I suggest you carefully cut off the heat shrink covering, taking care not to cut into the cells. You can then check each cells voltage. The nominal is 1.2v rising to 1.4v when charged. Any around 1v or less will never hold a charge so mark them with a marker pen. Hopefully it will be one of the end cells that has failed. On your type of pack the bottom of the battery (negative) will be in a metal case attached to the top (positive) of the next cell. I use a flat blade screwdriver to separate the cells (they are spot welded) and sometimes you can get the case off the bottom of the dud cell, leaving it attached to the positive of the next cell. I suggest you then charge the remaining good cells to see if they all take a full charge. If they are OK you can get a new cell or just make a lower voltage pack. I use a piece of stranded wire to repair the joint. You will need a 40+watt iron and some solder paste, and may need to scratch the battery case and pin for the solder to take. If you were careful with removing the heat shrink you can use it to cover the pack with a bit of electrical tape to make good. Please ask if you need any guidance with the process. I have been doing this for many years and may not have explained in enough detail if it's new to you. Do remember if the battery is charged it can short in its unwrapped state so do make sure you bench is uncluttered and kept clear of any metal objects. Good luck

Twin Esc/Mixer by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
The basic answer is yes, but, ..... lay esc/mixer on its side, then lay the battery pack along side, just so you don't block the cooling holes in the esc. Mark

46" Firefloat What Motor/Battery by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 26 days ago
Hi J. Your motors are nominal voltage 7.2v. Try a single 7.2v 3300 NimH pack, quality from Component Shop. It will be short running time, powering 2 motors but will give you an idea of performance, then you could buy a second, 1 for each motor, if this did not work out or you want more performance then go for brushless motors, still with the 2 battery packs. I would try the single pack first, suck it and see, develop it from there without breaking the bank!!!! Cant see any ESC, have you got 1 or 2? if 1 use a 'Y' lead to connect the second battery. Mark

46" Firefloat What Motor/Battery by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 26 days ago
HI JJ. Your question about a safety bag, Damaged / overcharged lipo's can catch fire, think of the Boeing scandal that grounded the fleet last year. Charging in a safety bag is advised the bag is fire retardant material, which will contain any problem. Your remarks about the boat not coming onto the plane is down to the weight of the battery, my fireboat started with 7.2v NimH packs 1 for each motor, Graupner 700bb's, good cruise but not quick, but short run time, 10mins. I have re-wired to allow 3s lipo's, but not had chance to test it yet, but should go like stink. With a fast hull, weight is important, 4 x lipo packs, 1kg, half the weight and possibly 6 times the power delivery. In your first post you mention 600 motors on 6volts, they are probably rated at 8.4volts, same as my 700's hence the lack of performance, also the battery, at 12ah it should last about 30mins, was it fully charged??? and is it showing at least 6volts, ie not got a duff cell??? Canabus, in his post described an ideal set up with brushless motors, 1600 watts is just over 2 hp, 750 per horsepower so you can see the difference in performance with different motors and battery set up's

Voltage step down by misterbee Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 28 days ago
I know this will sound very basic to experienced members, but my question is; If I want to use an "MTroniks" Viper Marine ESC, which is rated at 12 volts, and a similarly rated brushed motor, how can I easily get 12 volts out of two 7.2 NiMh battery packs? As you can surmise, my electronics expertise is zero. Brian Hill.

80' Elco PT Boat by Zdenek Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 30 days ago
[Score: 7/10] 30"/1600g 80' Elco PT Boat Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type 40mm) Direct Drive to a Turnigy Typhoon 500 Heli (2 Blade X Type) Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 5Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Turnigy Marine 60 Amp (60Amps) ESC - Comments: A scratch-built stand-off model based on Model Boats free plan (design by GG). Material mainly balsa wood (hull) and plastic (styrene) on superstructure. Propulsion unit differs from the original design. This is a second set up, not really tested yet. Original set up was Speed 700 Turbo, 12 V NiMh battery pack 4100 mAh, it was 500 g overweight. The only "special feature" are working position lights. It was a pleasure to built and it is pleasure to sail her.

Most dependable battery by CaptLarry Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
I guess it all depends on the care and feeding of your battery pack with regards to its longevity and performance. Thank you for your replies.

Motor problem by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Richard, as an extra to Dave M. the battery packs are different sizes, 5000mah and 3300mah, if both batteries are connected together they will cause problems with power balance, as said the cooling slots are covered. You said the motor was cooking, have you tried it since? maybe it was the ESC that cut out through the overloading with the prop to big. PS what size prop is fitted? The 540 in the 4th pic may not be big enough, a 600 size or even an 850 would give a lot more torque and probably more speed, you can back off the throttle but a small motor will always struggle, and will probably be run at near full power a lot of the time. Hope this helps Mark

Twin Esc/Mixer by saga32 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
Mention was made earlier of the two sets of red and black wires being for separate batteries. The manual says "Do not under any circumstances connect a separate battery pack to each pair of red and black wires - it may seem logical but you will very probably do fatal damage to the P94" I would agree with the previous post from NPJ "slow down and read the manual" There's a lot in there. Hope your tug installation goes well

MFA TORPEDO 500 / BATTERY INFO by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Ft08-RC-150a-Hight-Precision-Watt-M... one example of the breed it is fitted ( when testing) between the battery pack and the ESC and gives a real time V A and watts

MFA TORPEDO 500 / BATTERY INFO by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi al, jarvo's answer is more or less correct but not the whole story! Here is a reprint from my attempt to clarify various misunderstandings and misuse of terms related to batteries - usage and maintenance - posted to a thread "battery charging" you can find under 'General Sailing'. "Hi Both (and all other non-technical guys here!) (Dave_M please jump to the next post or topic!😉) To avoid further confusion amongst the non-technical members can we perhaps straighten out the technical terms involved in battery charging and use (strictly speaking the dimensions or quantities involved). mAh (milli-amphour) is a measure of the capacity of a battery: how many 1/1000 of an ampere (A) it can theoretically deliver in one hour, if in perfect fully charged condition and under perfect environmental conditions. (What you ain't never gonna get!) When the outside temperature drops so does the usable capacity 🤔 Charge and discharge rates are measured in ampere (A). under 1A the milliamp (1A/1000, unit mA) is usually used for convenience. Quality battery packs are marked on the case with maximum charge and discharge rates in A. Sometimes marked as xC/yC. xC is the MAX charge rate and means x times the nominal capacity/1000. yC is the MAX discharge rate (i.e. what your motors take) and often means y times the nominal capacity/1000. Sometimes the max discharge rate is given as a multiple of the max charge rate. See example in my photo. These are MAXIMUM warnings and NOT to be taken as the norm! See example in pic. Capacity 4000mAh = 4Ah, MAX charging current is 8A =2C, (4000/1000)x2. Half an hour charging gives then 8/2=4Ah. I would never ever charge at anywhere near this rate! Charging at 500mA (0.5A) for 8 hours (0.5Ax8h=4Ah) is perfectly adequate and much more gentle on the cells i.e. longer life 😉 MAX discharge current is given as 240A = 30 times max charge current or 60 times capacity in Ah.(4). If I used it at this rate it would probably be irreparably damaged (toasted) in just under a minute (0.9999r) 😡 If any Lixx pack gets HOT while charging or in use take it to recycling pronto, before it sets fire to your boat or workshop/house😡 ALWAYS MAKE CERTAIN THAT YOUR CHARGER IS SET FOR THE TYPE OF PACK YOU ARE USING, NicAD, NiMh, LiPo OR LiION etc (don't forget the balancer connection!). Sorry for teaching some 'grandmas' to suck eggs but having seen so many questions about battery charging and much misuse of the parameter units for batteries in the responses (as above) I felt it was time to clarify things for the non-technical among us, for their own safety and the health of their wallets!" Cheers Doug 😎

Layout and Limitations (con) by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Looks like a great layout for the components, how is the for and aft balance??? should be ok with the battery pack between the shafts. Did you say you were going for a rotating radar??? Mark

First test run by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Mate, allowing for the battery pack being slightly down, the boat is bows down, not allowing it to come up onto the plane, try moving the batteries back towards the stern Regards Mark

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade by octman Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
I have an old Southampton , off E.Bay a couple of years ago. I fitted the Components shop mixer, 2x 3400mAH NiMh packs(one for each motor)2 Mtroniks 15A Marine vipers, Technobots diesel sound system and also a Technobots 16 channel sound system. There is not a lot of spare space! I had a problem with the mixer eventually. It worked very well, as I did not think the turning circle in the original form was very good. I took it out eventually and went over to tank steering, which is OK but seems to be more effective in turning one way rather than the other, it's fine in a straight line. I found out after I had removed the mixer that the supposed problem was of my own making. So many wires inside that I was not in fact charging one of the battery packs so it ended up flat. Nothing wrong with the mixer at all! I mounted the engine sound speaker in the lower half of the cabin,where there was just enough room, where the window openings are not glazed(at least on my boat they aren't). Sound was OK but it was a bit lacking in volume, but I may need a higher power speaker, not sure as audio is a non area to me. The 16 channel unit is good in that a micro SD card is supplied with pre- recorded sounds, and instructions are given on how to record your own. The difficulty with this particular sound system is finding somewhere to put the second speaker as the 2 systems cannot be fed into the same speaker. It was a bit faint to say the least,possibly due to the tiny speaker I used. I tried to fit a transducer glued to the underside of the deck but there was no improvement so that is a work in progress. The inside of the hull resembled a very untidy birds nest! CHris

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Mark, you are sooooo right! 👍 That's why after much irritation, toing and froing and soldering with various connectors I settled on the 3 variants I list above for the types of models I build. For the plastic magic weight was the main consideration not current! On some mini models I will probably use direct soldered connection to save the weight of plugs and sockets. Yes, it CAN make a difference in a 15" model😉 From 45 years of electronic engineering I learned- 1 Keep the parts count down to reduce the potential MTBF (Mean Time Between Failures), REF: MIL-STD Handbook 217! 😉 2 Eliminate non-essential components to keep production costs down! I find that these principles apply equally well to model building! I NEVER charge any battery regardless of type in the model! Would be a bit impractical with some of the longer hulls anyway, would block the electrics bench 🤔 Seems the LiPo pack could fit between the prop shafts in the Southampton. Access through the work deck hatch. Pico RX is no problem, biggest item is then the P94 dual ESC/mixer at 74mm. If I remove the original plastic trays this should also go in! Report soon. Oh yeh! Usual problem, what do I do first?? Ta muchy for your interest and advice, much appreciated👍 Cheers and Goodnight from Munch, now 01:45 here, way past my beddie-byes time! Doug 😎