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>> Home > Tags > bow thruster

bow thruster
thrust washer
bow thruster
Model slipway tsekoa 2 by ferryman Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
working bow thruster twin T4 motors Mtronics speed controllers Requires batteries and radio gear Space required at home. £300 (Plymouth area) Collection only preferred. SOLD

Dutch River by Kipper Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
[Score: 8/10] 36"/11800g Dutch River Capable of 10mph and a runtime of 120mins Twin Propellors (3 Blade 60mm) Direct Drive to a Mabuchi 555 (3 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 7Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Viper 15 / Mtroniks (10Amps) ESC - Comments: No bow thruster fitted, with tanksteer & twin rudders she spins on her own axis.

Damen Stan 4207 by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Decided to advance LI-PO plans and try a 4S 4000mAh pack. This weight of this pack reduced overall model weight by 8 oz, so it is now 9.6 lbs, close to the original target. Was also to slide the pack further sternwards until it touched the inner face of the RIB slipway, about 2.5” from the stern. The effect on the waterline was limited; the model now sits slightly higher with the waterline remaining level. Slowly increased the speed of the motors to assess the LI-PO performance. There was a significant improvement. There is no need to use “ full” power as it probably exceeds max scale speed. As the model accelerates the bow lifts exposing an area of the red bottom paint. The wake streams down the side of the vessel and curls off the spray rails. She looks very realistic. The attached picture is at part speed. The model is totally controllable, the influence of the centre fins is noticeable as the heeling is not pronounced unless extreme manoeuvring is tried. After 90 minutes of use decided all original objectives for the model are now accomplished. She looks and performs well. The next task is to tidy up the temporary wiring and fit the LI-PO properly. Will also have to re-route more accessories through the voltage reducer fitted for the bow thruster so the LED lights are not overpowered. Have also bought a small r/c controlled child’s jet ski toy with the intention is using the drive and control system in the RIB. It will require much mutilation of both the jet ski and the RIB to work them in together, but think it can be achieved. My next blog will tell.

Victoria by Skipper44 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 4 months ago
[Score: 5/10] 39" Victoria Capable of 2mph and a runtime of 100mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 40mm) Belt to a Graupner 600 Speed (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (7.2v) 4Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Mtroniks viper Marine (15Amps) ESC - Comments: She is a 100cm long barge like ship, weighs too much to carry around easily so she doesn't see as much use as one may hope. She has a draught of around two inches and a bow thruster. This is complemented by a working anchor windlass and lights.

DAMEN STAN 4207 by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
First open water test went well, but with two caveats: 1) Would like to increase performance somewhat, closer to her looks. The initial tests of the unfinished hull showed adequate performance. As the detail and superstructure have been added, it has deteriorated. The increased weight of over 2 lbs has increased draft and wetted area, thus drag. 2) The bow is slightly low. Decided the best way to improve performance would be to increase the NiMh battery output from 7.2 to 9.6 volts. Thus added two more cells to the forward “C” cell holder. Also increased the LED resistor capacity and added a voltage reducer to avoid burning out the lights and bow thruster at this new voltage. By examining the drawings and the model layout decided to tackle the second by moving the forward battery carrier from just in front of, to just behind, the centre of gravity. Fortunately the Damen drawings show the C of G location. This increased the stern draught by about 1/4”, with the bow similarly decreased. Also reduced the stern ballast to about 3 oz. A further open water test showed an nice improvement in speed with the model now sitting on the waterline. Running time exceeds an hour, she also looks trim and purposeful. Think this is about as fast as an 9.6 NiMh installation will operate. Adding more cells will increase weight, adding to the draught. Am toying with trying a LI-PO installation in the future. This will provide increased voltage with a weight reduction, but rather costly though. Have decided to enjoy the model as she currently is; there is plenty to look at with the working fire hydrant, the bow thruster, the work and navigation lights. Will concentrate on launching and making the RIB operate, have some ideas on how to do this and will report in due course.

12 volt motors to esc,s by none Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
I have now just arrived two FR15 Series Microprocessor Speed Controllers. with BEC ? So I had in the past had a mixer and distribution board . But now decided just to omit the bow thruster and only wire in TWO motors.. @ 12 volts each.. So with 2 x 12 volt motors 1 x 12 volt lead sealed battery. 2 x esc,s 1 x reciver And a single rudder servo. and two y joiners for the servo. and the paperwork that came with the esc,s Being totally thick is there a drawing somewhere I can download So as to wire this in ? Also each esc has wires for a bec ? No idea where they go

Tamar lifeboat by Helineil Petty Officer   Posted: 6 months ago
I have recently started to build a model slipway tamar class lifeboat and when marking out the holes for the bow thruster I noticed that the lower spray rails were not symetrical and that the front 220mm of the port side needed building up gradually from 0 to 5mm and back to 0 in order to correct the problem. I only noticed this because I printed two bow thruster position patterns instead of using the one supplied in the booklet and when used together showed up the problem. Not to difficult to resolve, but hope this might be useful to other tammar builders. If anyone has any other hints or tips for making this boat I would be most grateful👍

Big Blue by Peter47 Commander   Posted: 6 months ago
Nice work so far, my Brother had a similar idea, re hatch sizes, but he scratched built boat hull in 4 watertight sections, held together with rods, pushed pushed down from deck and using computer leads for Bow thrusters/lighting/radar etc. With all sections in place it could a large tanker, remove one section it could convert to a coaster, using Bow and Stern it became a large tug, all superstructure could be placed in any position on deck,even bridge section could be altered, by sliding it back and forth, back for cargo /oiler, forward tug. All this he could do in minutes, so looked it looked like he'd brought a shed load of boats to the lake. :-)

Ayton Cross by none Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
[Score: 5/10] 43" Ayton Cross Twin Propellors (4 Blade 65mm) Direct Drive to a Engel EPX 1236 (4 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) Batteries Controlled Through Component Shop ESC - Comments: A lot more information to add when it has ballast and pond tested. The motor mounts were home made and laminated into the hull they are removable so as to use the complete set up on another vessel. Bow thruster and korts and shaft fitted Not removable The electrical setup is as per the plan above.

Trawler "OUR LASS" by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
Hi ginnyginny Graupner may no longer be available. Look at http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/bow_thrusters.h... they have a selection of Raboesch. I also found the no e-bay. You could give Jackie a ring at Model Slipway to see what they recommend. If you Google model bow thrusters you may find more local suppliers. If there is noise it's probably because the internals have rusted. Hope you find what you want Dave

Trawler "OUR LASS" by GYJOE Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 7 months ago
Want to fit Bow Thruster,which make to go for,told Graupner are noisey. Any advice welcome

Damen Stan 4207 by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
Although we have had several signs of spring, the local outdoor pool is still closed. Our club was requested to attend a local boat show, using our portable pool, so took the opportunity to test the vessel as she is now almost complete. In an earlier post described that if the later additions could be contained within 2 lbs the model should be close to the correct waterline. This was determined by using weights balanced at the stern. So far, have added about 1 ½ lbs, but mainly around the mid section. From the attached pictures it can be seen that the bow is slightly low and the stern high. This suggests that by moving weight within the hull the correct balance can be obtained. If 16 oz is placed at the stern both bow and stern become correct. Am loath to just add ballast, prefer to rebalance and retain the current weight. Fortunately within the hull there is space towards the stern that can accommodate a heavy component. Had been reluctant to commit to either a stick or stack style NIMH battery, so decided to make one up using two plastic C type battery holders and individual C cells. See picture. The electrical system is 7. 2 volts, the cells were divided into 4 and a two cell trays. The heavier of these was disconnected and moved 8” sternwards. It is too early to finalize the weight distribution as have to build the R.I.B. and it's launch/retrieval system. Think that moving this 12 oz sternwards though the vessel should be close to the correct waterline.Hope to be able to check that shortly. From the stern picture a list to starboard is evident. This is easy to correct by moving the batteries slightly in the opposite direction. Although the pool is quite small, was able to test all the other functions. Scale speed was realistic and during a sharp turn little heeling is apparent. Everything else, bow thruster, fire hydrant, lights, radar scanner, fin and rudders work satisfactorily.

Ayton cross or as close as.. by none Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
I bought a used hull of the Ayton Cross and look all over the internet for some plans but found none. I did find a lot of images though. I bought most if not all of the fittings and since have decided that the way to go is to make what you can from what I can get hold of. So all other model boats are and will be scratch made. I have two on the burner at the moment. Anyway some of the Ayton Cross looks right some of it does not. But I can always do it again as I hopefully get a little better. This one again is awaiting Ballast and it will be ready to go. I fitted two Engel 12 volt motors and made the mounts in grp then Laminated them into position.. Everything has been hand painted and slightly aged . The bow thruster was made using some household plumbing pipe a small propshaft Again home made and it works very well. Something to play with as I build hopefully better.

DAMEN STAN 4207 by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 months ago
Decided to leave the batteries connected up in series and use an adjustable voltage regulator to vary the voltage and determine the ideal. Total hull weight was checked and is under 7 lbs. The pond was again nice and calm, so first investigated the effect of adding weight to see how much could be added to finish the remainder of the model. With the boat floating 'as built' the bow is slightly down vs the stern. I have several 2 lb weights, so balanced one on the RIB slip. The bow rose above the waterline and the stern sank to slightly below it. Tried a further 2 lb weight and the water almost reached deck level! The ideal seems about 2 lbs, but mounted further forwards towards the centre of the model. Left the first weight in place and started voltage runs. At the base voltage of 7.2 (the NiMH rating) performance was good. The model has a nice turn of speed and is totally predictable. Increased the voltage in 1.2 volt increments to replicate NiMh voltage steps. As the voltage increased the vessel obviously goes faster, but the turning response becomes rapid and very sensitive. Finally increased the voltage to the a maximum of 14.4 volts and decided the ideal would be 7.2 volts. This also allows all the vessel systems to work at this voltage without a voltage reducer for the bow thruster. With the cells wired in parallel, this should give over 3 hours running time. Continued to experiment with the model for about 1 ¾ hours before a drop in performance was noticed, indicating discharging cells. During this period was able to make further assessments of the performance of the linked rudder / fin system. This system flattens turns, reducing heeling and gives a tight turning circle. If anything it is tighter than the full size vessel, so a real crew would need to hang on very tightly during max rate turns! To my relief the only trace water was from one of the propeller shafts, the hull is sound and without leaks. Unfortunately the weather has now turned colder and cannot do any further sailing until next Spring. At least can continue building confident in the knowledge this is the basis of a great model, one which will justify the many hours needed to finish it properly.

DAMEN STAN 4207 by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 months ago
Gave the sterngate some thought and decided a strategically located bell crank and linkage would transmit sufficient servo travel to open and close it. This would also allow limited access to the servo and linkage to assist in any eventual repairs or servicing. A mock up of the installation confirmed this. Transferred the dimensions and layout into the hull and installed the sterngate frame. This moves correctly as the servo is stroked. Could have now moved to sheath the outside of the hull and fit the deck. Decided it would be better to install all the electrical components first and then do a trial run of every function in case any issues arose. This proved wise, many minor adjustments had to be made to bulkheads and structure to allow control rod and wiring. Once everything was installed, connected the components as appropriate and powered the various systems up. The rudder, fin and motors all worked as planned. The fire hydrant pump and the bow thruster were also fitted. The direction (polarity) of these components is important so the wiring was colour coded to ensure correct final fitting. Once all was installed and operating correctly, weighed the partially completed hull recognizing that with the major components fitted the weight would not be too far off the finished weight. It weighed in at about 6 lbs, so estimate when the hull is fully sheathed and painted it will be around 7 lbs. This does not include the superstructure and lighting. This was an opportune time to photograph the interior installation and some pictures are attached. The wiring was deliberately left loose so it could all be removed and reinstalled when the hull sheathing was complete.