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>> Home > Tags > bow wave

bow wave
waveney lifeboat
waverley
bow wave
The Vosper 46” RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage Model Works by Lyle Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Dear Modellers and builders of the Vintage Model Works kit series. You will find my earlier pictures and various writings on the original earlier postings by me in OZ of my still some 30/plus years Crash Boat in which I wore out several I/C motors and my girl still runs in Salt Water at the local LAKE ILLAWARRA in New South Wales and you are somewhat fortunate with ready made fittings. I did not ever know of the "page" ( wish I had a copy ) on your wall of the rear well of fire hose details and fittings , wow what a bonus, as a colonial had several years till Peter Dimberline and I had contact and he helped me to authenticate my vessel. The ESSENTIAL secret of the Crash Boat is the spray rails. So many look toy in the videos and TOOOOOOO fast . The spray rails are doubled at width protruding from the hull and lesser at the point of "rise of the wood " towards the upper bow point. The depth is not too critical at a bit of about an eighth of an inch thickness or a bit thinner for the whole length as you do not want to see a "thick log ", rather again it is the width rather than depth. I know I have written on this before on this webb site in the past. The turns thus on the go become when starting on and STAY more on the go are more flatter rather like a full sized hull which has a planing/ flatter hull turn to the flatness of the water than a typical poorly behaving model boat hull which invariably heels TOOOO much and somewhat digging in , (in turns). The HARD CHINE hull design was meant to not only rise to a comfortable plane attitude but ALSO to turn without that annoying behaviour of "digging in" when it should still perform and exhibit that hard chine design attitude when in a turn . "Digging in" equals water resistance AGAINST the hull and loss of performance and loss of plane attitude and against wave resistance when the hull designers team is trying to maintain hard chine performance in the forward turning direction. I harp on this point that this hull design is one to respect . The older I get the more I expect of all my model machines that I am lucky to see on computers, as we certainly have more need to respect the masters, the likes of Peter Du Cane and T E Lawrence and Hubert Scott Payne of Vospers and Thornycroft and The British Power Boat Company and ELCO and Higgins, all of whom I have researched so much over my life and I have been to the memorial of Lawrence in the desert in Wadi Rum. I try to do it right. Regards to all builders Lyle. My mates and I have to run in 2 to 3 inch chop at times, such is the Lake Channel ! My wife has reminded me that some of my fleet do seem to have BLACK hulls and I only would build one model boat, when I bought the Aerobats Crash Boat home, the pictures are of some of my scratch built fleet.

My Timmy 2 by Ron Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
[Score: 8/10] 24" My Timmy 2 Capable of 5mph and a runtime of 30mins Single Propellor (3 Blade) Geared to a Graupner 400 (3 Blade) Powered by NiCad (7.2v) Batteries - Comments: Dumas kit - Jolly Jay - Built by Don Sutton, Metro Modellers of Toronto, Ontario, Canada 🇨🇦. Very sea worthy vessel, the tall bow takes waves on the lake very nicely. This boat is a steady sailing model which is why Don recommended it to me for teaching the grandsons to enjoy using it. Though boys still want grandpa to build a “fast” boat...maybe next year!

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 4 months ago
Scout13 I only have one battery connected at a time, with two batteries in situ I can use the other one when the first one is flagging,to give a longer running time, I could put them in Parallel but prefer to know I have a charged battery to use with an approx running time before it fails altogether. I have made a cover over the shaft coupling to prevent any cables coming into contact with it should they move, there is plenty of air space around this cover as well but the photo does not show it.Dave M the pond is weed free and the prop is the recommended one in the plans for the boat, as far as I am aware it is no larger dia. than the motor, but I will check that.As far as the weights I had to put lead in the front and mid section to get the boat down into the water as it was sitting on the hull and was not stable, I had some lead in the back as well as I used a spirit level when I was sorting it out in the bath, however when I first tried it in the pond the back end was too low in the water when it was going, so I took the heavier weight from the section just rear of the motor compartment and swapped it for the lighter weight just forward of the motor compartment, although this was better when tried again the stern was too low when it was moving so I removed the weights from the stern and as far as I could see it was just right, stationary the boat looked levelish but when moving on full throttle, the bow came up and had a nice bow wave with the stern down below the water level but with a (for want of the technical term) a hollow wave, when on a slower throttle it was fine and sailed nicely at all speed levels. What worries me is that the motor shown fitted in the boat was supposed to be the better motor than the photo of the one outside of the boat, would this benefit from a water cooled motor as to be honest I would not want to alter the top speed of the boat as it is just about right . just to let you all know I have a background knowledge of electrics so do know the difference between parallel and series voltages😊

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi All looking for some advice, A bit of background first, in the early sixties my late father and myself started to build a Sea Commander, when Mother and father separated, he took the model with him, it ended up in the loft of his new residence and stayed there untouched until he asked me to take it just before he passed away in 2000, it then sat in my workshop until I decided to finish it in 2015 after a hip operation, the first time I floated it was last weekend at Coate water in Swindon, I then spent a few hours in the bathroom when the wife was out to get it sorted with lead weights and a smaller battery than the big 12 volt alarm battery I had fitted, so with the 7.2 volt battery fitted I went back to Coate water and tried it out, I removed the weight from the stern and swapped the mid and Bow weights around and it sat just right and motored lovely with a nice Bow wave and a hollow wave at the stern with good rudder response. However after about 10 minutes the motor stopped, I still had rudder control and as it happened the boat was aiming for the jetty so had no problem recovering the boat, the motor however was smoking hot and burnt out. what is the best type of motor to use on one of these boats, photos of the boat and motor fitted and a photo of a spare working motor, thanks in advance. Sorry for writing a book😊

Imara by Novagsi0 Captain   Posted: 6 months ago
About 10 years old, currently with a DC motor setup Hectoperm but complete base plate can be swapped for a 2 cylinder cheddar models Proteus boiler and steam plant. With ABC boiler control. Lovely detailed model, cruses well on 4 Lead acid batteries in parallel lots of power from the MARXX motor and 60 ~ 70mm I forget, 4 blade brass prop. Actually needs more weight in the back already 4 lumps of lead in the back and some plates of stainless steel. When it gets moving the bow wave is huge. 😁

ESC POWER by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
Hi Doug my Olympic and Bills Titanic have three ESCs. The centre motor enables warp speed and produces a correct bow wave albeit at a very unscale speed. On such large models it helps to turn in a reasonable radius. My HMS Grenville also has two escs to help with manouvers. Then again I used to fly planes so still enjoy using all four sticks on my tx. Dave

Proboat Volere by Softie Apprentice   Posted: 8 months ago
I to have the Volere and cured the bow wave by adding spray rails. I used 2mm square white plastic trim purchased from my local hobby shop. Stuck them on with iso from the bow along the line of the white paint for about 150mm long. The boat now planes fantastically and has increased speed. On reflection I would run the spray rails full length of the hull to improve the authentic.

Futaba antenna by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 months ago
Hi Hugh, strip both ends. Twist the wires around each other and solder. Cover the joint with heat shrink sleeving. I cut the antenna of all my receiver and fit a small 2mm plug and socket so I can take the RX out without destroying half the ship. This was essential with my U Boat as the antenna is led out of the pressure hull through a waterproofed (epoxy sealed) hole in the bow. Topside the remaining wire was fitted with another plug an socket, so I could remove the whole sea-deck for servicing, and stretched over the conning tower and down to the after deck just like the real ones. Plus or minus a cm or so won't make much difference. Wavelength at 27MHz is about 11 metres and at 40MHz about 7.5m. So our antennas are working at about 1/16th of the wavelength. This is normally compensated (a bit!) inside the RX with a coil which increases the effective length that the RX input sees. My first boss always told me "RF is a black art!" 😉 Maybe if you try to beat the physics, but it took me around the world! Cheers Doug 😎

Proboat Volere by Commodore-H Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 11 months ago
Thanks guys for your thoughts. I looked at the YouTube video and yes, that is the way I think it should run, with the bow lifted out of the water instead of plowing like a tugboat! I looked at other videos and yep, there's the giant bow wave again. So I am wondering now if the one in the video is version 2. It's still too cold where I live, Pennsylvania, USA to run any boats. I do have a new prop on hand so I can try that first when the weather cooperates. Looking at the Proboat website, I saw two interesting new models. One is a PBR,(was showcased in film Apocalypse Now) that's not released yet. It is powered by twin water-jets. That is one that has been on my build list for a while. So now maybe I will just buy it. The website says it has operating lights and provision to make the forward turret rotate. Sounds good to me. The second is a race boat also powered by a water-jet. I am primarily a scale boat builder but I always wanted to give water-jet propulsion a try. Cheers

Proboat Volere by Commodore-H Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 11 months ago
I have proboat volere. It performs pretty well but, it makes a big bow wave and really doesn't get up and plane like I think it should. Has anyone performed any modifications? Bringing the voltage up by one cell o 9.6volts helps a little as does adding a little weight to the stern. Speed control is huge, and I know, can easily be replaced by a tiny mtroniks unit. Any other experience or ideas out there? 😁😁😁😁😜😜😜

Toby Tug (previously a Seaport Workboat) by EricMB Commander   Posted: 2 years ago
Hi there, yes I replaced the motor with a 345 ekectronize but it was too powerful for the boat (too big a bow wave!) and gave too much interference on the speaker with the engine sounds, so I reverted to the original setup. It pulled the tanker (and stricken tug!) ok..

Gry Maritha by topperles Lieutenant   Posted: 3 years ago
This boat looks the biz when Its going full tilt , The bow wave looks awesome !!! Twin motors Independently controlled ,turning circles pretty good for her size . Saying that , I do need to transport her by a sack cart ....lol

PERKASA by Captkiddo Apprentice   Posted: 3 years ago
Beautiful boat, realistic bow wave, great detail

RAF Crash Tender Motor size by twinkle Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 4 years ago
Guesstimate on speed faster than I can run . The 10 sub C's weigh about 20 ozs my lipos only 12ozs hence 8ozs difference , my batteries are In the front compartment where the tank was originally. not much weight with the motors and speed controller midships , and nothing heavy at the rear , without the ballast It would have made a good submarine on full power as the bow wave flooded the model . tried 20 ozs In the rear and It planed better but sat too low without power . A couple of the local boat club were at the lagoon when I got there and they had a go after I put the 4 off 1/2" drives plug sockets I found In the cars toolbox In the back , Since then I have been given a divers belt weight and 1/2 of that weighs the same as the sockets I had used . next stage Is to secure It In the rear In a purpose made housing . might try 2x 2s 1800 lipos next time just to see how the boat performs with the extra GO!.. 😈

Victory Industries Vosper Fire Boat RC conversion part 7 by smiggy Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 4 years ago
The maiden voyage. Well, mixed fortunes. The Cunning Plan Mk1c - steering system, small fire boats for the use of worked a treat 👍 Unfortunately the overall weight proved more of a problem than I expected. There was power a plenty and she went like the clappers but getting there was a bit nerve wracking. The angle of the props forced the bow down and I had to be careful until the hull generated enough lift to get the bow up and a give nice bow wave. Not planing like her larger sisters but she did look something like the picture on the box. You can see the problem In the water shot, the green stuff on the foredeck Is some pond weed we're plagued with at the moment. (Photos 10 and 10A) The battery position Is tricky as this will be single heaviest part of the kit. As you see In Photo 9 I tried Velcro-ing It to the roof of the aft cabin but this put the CoG of the boat too far back and left the transom gunwale just above the water meaning that the well deck would fill with the slightest wave or when reversing. The maiden trip was with a 'hump' 6v pack just ahead of the motors but this meant that although the boat was level the bows were a bit too low. The current set-up Is 4 AA batteries, 2 either side of the motors and 2 In the roof as before. It looks OK In the bath........ I hope this will Inspire some of you to take the plunge. I'm no engineer and have completed this with a standard household drill, a Dremel type drill for cutting the cockpit hole and the usual small pliers, wire cutters, small files and tweezers any modeller will have to hand and a small desk mounted vice. The only slightly specialist tools were a pack of fine drill bits and a couple of pin drills obtained on Ebay. A small pillar drill would have made drilling the rudder shafts a lot easier but I passed the Initiative test (and only broke one drill bit). I only have a very basic understanding of electricity and have only just figured out soldering. This Isn't Intended to be a definitive solution and If you can see alternatives to the above, especially the power plant let us know. Using lighter motors will help and using just one will too, but driving contra-rotating props from one motor Is beyond me - at the moment. Oh, and I really wouldn't advise taking the whole deck off. You'll never get It back on properly unless you're very good or very lucky. I am contemplating rebuilding the test boat but with a completely new deck structure probably made of balsa wood to save weight - and because I bought a load cheap a while ago...........