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Model Boats Website Team
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Hi All Would suggest you dry assemble with the cabin sides as my forward bulkhead was out by 2 Degrees. When I cut the pieces out I used a new Dremel Moto Saw as my old srollsaw from Dremel was condemned due to inavailability of blades. Like I say not enough clamps Have ordered the decking from Jotika this is extra and allows you to plank the deck and cockpit more realistically.
Not sure your correct when you say ply doesn't bend in two directions. when building my crash tender the roof panels are a compound curve, I steamed them and let them set in a jig. I agree this will be somewhat more difficult when dealing with a full length skin but with some thought and appropriate jigs and clamps I think it can be done. Ill give it a go on my next build.
Hi Martin, Apropos mini Milling machines; this is the one I use. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qffdG_d2fJ0https://www.axminster.co.uk/proxxon-mf-70-milling-machine-37... Pics show using it to mill my new Sea Scout propshaft to secure the grub screws in the motor coupling. I just changed the tool holder from collets to a proper chuck. I also bought the little machine vice which clamps to the table, and the dividing head. There is also a CNC (putah driven version - ain't got that far yet, bit expensive😉) But this little job has served me well for several years now, very happy with it👍 I also use it as a precision drill press; e.g. to make the new phosphor bronze brushes for my Taycol target renovation. See last pic. Have also recently used it to make the little gearbox so I can fit the renovated Taycol Target into my ancient Billing Danish fish cutter 'Gina2'. See, I don't just do the 'Grey Fleet', sometimes I also mess with wood😁 Cheers, Doug 😎
Agreed Mike, that was exactly my thought as studied the pics of frame arrangements👍 Pete, I hope you managed to get all frames fitted at right angles to the keel! To skin it I would fix the frame structure firmly to a build-board upside-down as Mike says. Make sure the keel is straight and then FIX THE BOTTOM SKINS FIRST making sure that they are flush to the keel and that the keel is straight and the frames not twisted. Leave overnight to set thoroughly. If you are having trouble fitting the skin round the bow and sticking the whole length then as a first stage glue the 'flat' bit aft. Leave to set overnight and then you can play with the 'bent' bits the next day without shifting what you have already done.😉 When the bottom skins are fixed file and sand to fit so you can fit the side skins smoothly and down over the bottom skin edges. Use the same technique for the side skins, stick the back end first if you ain't got enough hands handy to fiddle aft and bow on simultaneously😉 Use clamps if you can, e.g. the simple plastic X types or bulldog clips, whatever. Instead of Sellotape try aluminium Duct Tape. Cheers, Doug 😎
Doug, sorry, I should have answered you last time on that. A good impression of a dummy screw can be made in aluminium with a piece of tube sharpened on the end so it looks like a miniature leather punch. Obviously better if you can do it with something you've done in the lathe, in steel, but you don't have one. SO....PM me your postal and I will send you something I will knock up for you tomorrow in steel. That will last you into your dotage, when you will be found dribbling into the geraniums with this little tool in your mitts making impressions on the window cills of Frau Schmutterputz's Home for Englische Modelbauen. You will be able to "sharpen" it buy running it round on a stone lightly, rolling it as you draw it backwards. Can't add to Squire Turpin's words at all. I have a slide tailstock on my wee Taig lathe which makes screw forming easy as the thread takes the tap/die as it wants it, square and true. The piercing saw has clamps for much finer blades rather than the relatively big fret saw blades which generally have a pin at the ends. Sometimes you'll break a blade at one end. Then the adjustability makes sense as you just re work the length and re-use the broken blade. Tight wads like me appreciate such things. Car booked in tomorrow for repairs. About £300, so not as bad as I thought it might be. It's passed for the last two years. Busy boy today as I sprayed the Crash Tender grey on its upper works and by the looks of it it just needs a few areas of fine filler and a rub down on the toe rails and one more coat then it'll be ready for the gloss sides and the hull proper. Then I even used my brand new saw to mitre the corners of the topping to Chris's new garden pond casing. It's a stand up one to save our backs. So now, I am gonna sit and watch shite telly, even shiter than normal as it is all infested by ball kickers playing grown ups and failing miserably . G'night. Martin
I had to open my mouth yesterday didn't I 😭 this morning I took of the clamps to file of the excess glue and dropped the frame onto the floor knocking one of the ribs of 💩so I have had to re-glue the rib back on again so will be starting the blanking tomorrow now.i have included a couple of pics of the boat frame before I dropped it. 😱😱
6mm lime wood planks from Krick and 4mm tap from Conrad arrived on Wednesday so Full Speed Ahead. This time formers were made from the 6mm lime so no bending or slitting required, new piece of mahogany cut so that this time no inserts left an right were needed. 😊 Formers attached using Rocket cyano and a bag of clamps and left overnight. The 'Riva' tank filler caps were tapped 4mm and appropriate holes bored in the deck piece. Neodymium magnets attached to forward edge. Deck fitted and trimmed in situ for flush fit all round. Transom got scratched during this process so will need a respray🤔 Underside sealed with two coats of EzeKote and sealing / varnishing / lacquering process started on the topside. Last two pics show current status; So Far So Good.😉 Next step; fit windows made of 3mm green tinted acrylic 'glass', which also arrived Wednesday. Will now have to start thinking about what to do in the cockpit 😲 All I have so far is a 25mm ship's wheel. Furniture building is not exactly my Forte! First time for everything I suppose! Suggestions gratefully received!! Ciao for now, Doug 😎 Almost forgot! While waiting for varnish to dry I tackled an old problem with the rudder. Namely; asymmetric rudder throw caused by the rather bulky connecting rod binding on the rudder arm! Suddenly remembered I still had some E-Z Connectors from old aircraft days. Been hanging around for 35 years or so waiting for something to do! So replaced the old plastic linkage with 1mm spring steel rod and two E-Z connectors. Works a treat 😊
The deck has been fitted today after dry test fit before glueing. The timber framing and underside of the ply decking was coated in a water based varnish before applying the titebond 2 wood glue. Used a number of clamps and bungee cords to hold the deck down.
To you all - thankyou. I have found all your comments very useful. You can’t have too many clamps! I also am finding my Mini Wirkstation useful plus the smaller and larger cutting green mat as a base. I’ve also learnt ‘patience’ building my Wills Everard. Thanks again.
give up and go home! Oh! I am home 😁 Since I need access to the rudder the after deck has to be made as a removable hatch. Would you believe at the last refit (25 years ago) I actually managed to shoehorn the RX and RX NiMH battery in there as well!? Pic 1 shows what it looked like when I started this refit, after 20 odd years in the cellar 😲 Anyway, I wanted the deck to be mahogany to match the cabin roof and as a hatch it was obvious that it would need a subframe. Pic 2 to 5, had to open a new bag of chomp chomp clamps 😉 Trial fit Pic 6. SFSG! Under side was sealed with two coats of EzeKote and fixings added; neodymium magnets at the forward edge, domed captive nyloc nuts glued into the under frame at the aft edge. Pics 7 & 8. These will then accept 4mm studs screwed into Riva style fuel filler caps to hold it down and (hopefully) keep it watertight. Mahog was then finished in the same laborious and patience testing process described above (or is it below😲) for the cabin roof and decks. Pic 9 shows it screwed down with normal 4mm 'Camembert' head screws - Why? see below 😆 Finish was OK.. BUT After leaving screwed down overnight a hairline crack had developed 😡 Pic 10. Also, I didn't like the 3mm fillets between the hatch deck and the main deck, and was wondering what to do about the lip on the bulkhead at the rear of the cockpit. There was a chunk cut out in the middle. This was where in the old days we had a tiller bar to set the rudder for Free Running on a great circle (Radnor Park Lake in Folkestone - side note for Graham P74, probably before he was born😉) Sooo .... machined the lip away, removed the 3mm fillets, made a cardboard template for the new deck-piece and tomorrow is another day. Wonder what I can muck up then !!?? 😊 G'night all, ciao Doug 😎 Oh yes the Filler caps - drilled them on the lathe for 4mm thread clearance, dug out the tap set, selected 4mm 0.7mm pitch ..... Oh S..t, only a tapered tap which starts cutting at 5mm. Hole in the cap is only 5mm deep.😡 Immediately ordered 4mm parallel machine tap, should be here on Wednesday. No sweat, should have deck hatch Mk. 2 finished by then 😎
I came across those clamps by luck a few weeks ago. Had gone to Homebase (one of those large DIY/gardening/kitchens etc. superstores) with my wife for something she wanted and stumbled across them, and thinking they look useful bought a couple. When I went back again a few days ago I virtually cleared the stock! Could do with getting a few more though because as you can see and know you can soon use them all up! I'm really lucky with the IMBS as it's only about 20 minutes away! Been there two years in a row since getting interested in the hobby. Chris