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>> Home > Tags > coupling

coupling
coupling
BRAVE BORDERER by jbkiwi Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 5 hours ago
If you are using 2 ESCs/BEC/UBECs with 2 plugged into 1 receiver you should remove the red wire from one of the plugs and tape it back to the lead, as both plugged in will possibly supply too much voltage for the receiver (you are getting double the voltage from 2 different sources) and this can cause the ESC to stutter . You should have no problems with Brushless out-runner motors as with the correct match with the ESC they should be as smooth as brushed. I have dual 2000kv 28/45 in-runners (with water jackets) and twin ESCs and 2 sound units using 1 receiver in my 64ft ASR model with no problems regarding proportional control (fwd or rev). I had a 28mm O/R in a Maiami ASR and it would crawl along (but the high noise was ear wrecking so have changed it back to brushed for now. I do have a similar slight high pitched squeal at certain speeds on one motor and this may be caused by the particular motor not 'syncing'properly with the ESC (Chinese cheap ESCs and HobbyKing /made in china motors) but short of changing that motor and ESC I am just putting up with it for now. The high pitched sync noise is fairly common and sometimes not fixable, (a number of my larger planes do it and its audible from 100m away (also amplified by a hull,-nice sound box). It can depend on the way a particular motor is wound (no 2 are identical) or even magnet placement/timing, as the may be hand wound by 2 very nice Chinese ladies at different ends of a bench ( just read some of the Hobby King motor reviews ) You could try changing the frequency on the ESC if it has that option as a higher motor Kv sometimes requires a higher frequency. Also make sure your ESC is set to the correct battery cell count. If it has an auto setting that should usually work best for general applications unless you are running fancy motors. Regarding interference, make sure you keep your aerial as far as poss from the motors and ESCs (even on 2.4 - I put mine right up in the bow) and there should be no problems. I have had 2 twin engined boats (my MTB & ASR) 1 brushed and 1 brushless running side by side 10" apart using the same radio for both (same type of Rec in each boat) with no problems at all. The bow down is probably prop shaft angle (the shallower the better) but if you are using counter rotating props you could try swapping props (inward rotation to outward) and motor rotation to see if it makes a difference. Also with 2800Kv motors you should be using small props (around 28-30mm diam 3 blade) as these motors are made to rev) as on a 2s battery they will be turning at around 20,000 dry and perhaps 18,000 wet (depending on prop) and if you load them too much they will cook with no cooling (assuming they are around 28mm dia ?) Only other thought - silicone couplings will squeal real loud if they slip.

Taycol Supemarine Resurrection by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Hi Martin, Apropos mini Milling machines; this is the one I use. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qffdG_d2fJ0 https://www.axminster.co.uk/proxxon-mf-70-milling-machine-37... Pics show using it to mill my new Sea Scout propshaft to secure the grub screws in the motor coupling. I just changed the tool holder from collets to a proper chuck. I also bought the little machine vice which clamps to the table, and the dividing head. There is also a CNC (putah driven version - ain't got that far yet, bit expensive😉) But this little job has served me well for several years now, very happy with it👍 I also use it as a precision drill press; e.g. to make the new phosphor bronze brushes for my Taycol target renovation. See last pic. Have also recently used it to make the little gearbox so I can fit the renovated Taycol Target into my ancient Billing Danish fish cutter 'Gina2'. See, I don't just do the 'Grey Fleet', sometimes I also mess with wood😁 Cheers, Doug 😎

Taycol Supemarine Resurrection by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi Doug, looks like you got it just right, no need to reduce any more as I have 6mm couplings and as the fan has yet to be sourced I will adjust to suit what you make the shaft. What's the lathe you are using, I may have some suitable items for it in my machine spares cabinet. Cheers Colin.

Taycol Supemarine Resurrection by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
So Colin, Last instalment for today. just finished fettling up the armature and drive shafts. Pic 1: having flattened off the ends I used a centre drill to prepare the shafts for machining using the 'live centre' on the mini lathe. Pic 2: machining the output end. Pic 3: polishing up the brush gear end, this is where you can attach your fan Colin. As shown on the micrometer I stopped at 6mm, less 2/100mm clearance, and will make the bearing bushes to suit. If you want the shafts turned down a bit more for the drive coupling and/or the fan attachment let me know Colin. I'll keep the actual motor bearing sections of the shaft as it is at 6mm to fit the bushes I'll make tomorrow. All the best, Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Ain't never no not 'eard of Iolite neiver!😲 But then I'm only an igorant lectrickery engineer 😁 Learnin' fast with all this mechanical magicery! All good fun folks, and MOST of it actually woiks!😊

BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
Decided to separate the two power systems; one to the port ESC and motor and the other the starboard. Hope this will reduce interference between the motor systems. Have also reverted to a remote battery powered Rx rather than the BECC system, again to reduce possible interference. The modifications did not resolve the problems. The squeal and stutter are still present, but much reduced. Sounds rather like a slipping coupling, but as these have been checked many times they can be eliminated. Apart from the squeal and the stutter, everything works well. The squeal /stutter occurs at start up, when it happens the control is returned to neutral, If the motor is immediately reselected, usually the problem goes away and the motor runs up cleanly. It only occurs when both motors are selected at the same time. Either runs up cleanly when selected individually. Interestingly enough, did some research on various Model Boats site and found some references to RF interference, no specific solutions though. Also examined some Aero modeling sites as they use powerful brushless motors with ESCs. There is some history of the problem there. Evidently when the mosfets (?) of the ESCs convert DC to AC, RF interference is generated. It can often be addressed by using ferrite rings on the ESC control leads. My latest ESCs actually have ferrite rings, so the problem must have been anticipated. This might account for the latest reduction in squeal and stutter levels. Am at a loss to think of any other modifications, so decided to conduct a water test. Maybe it is a characteristic of brushless motors, but their control response seems “ragged”, not smooth as with a brushed. Anyway, the squeal and stutter seemed reduced yet again, perhaps the water load damped them down. Was able to start exploring both the performance envelope and the viability of the brushed centre shaft motor. First impressions are that on a 2S battery the performance is fine, but it sparkles on 3S. On 3S the stutter and squeal are more pronounced though. Intend to do further trials but, unless something unexpected occurs, now plan to use 2S power. The centre brushed motor idea works well, this layout seems a good compromise. Will design a simple switching circuit to ensure the brushless motors can selected separately. This will avoid the inadvertent operation of both brushed and brushless unintentionally as they are on the same control stick. The brushed can then be used for low speed operation. Returning to the problem of squeal and stutter – has anybody else experienced this and how was it resolved?

PT 109 upgrade? by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Should be three V12 petrol engines for PT109, surely? I always find pseudo sound to be most unconvincing. I like a bit of genuine racket in a model! My Crash Tender has a Taycol Supermarine with a Taycol square peg coupling, now that's NOISE! Cheers, Martin

BRAVE BORDERER by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Rowen, Interesting snag! Can you send me a wiring diagram please. Sounds like you might be getting some cross coupling of control pulse ripple through the battery wiring. Reminds me of similar problems on naval COMMS systems where we had to fit filters to all the power supplies to prevent cross coupling of sensitive info from 'Secure' to 'Plain' systems via the power leads! BTW: All brushless squeal and scream until the the pitch gets beyond human hearing frequency range 😉 Alternative: If you use two 3S LiPos, each of half the capacity of the original, you should get the same endurance with only a small weight penalty. This ain't curing the real problem though 😉 Cheers, Doug 😎

20th Scale ELCO 80ft PT boat part 7 by CB90 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi RNinMunich, Should not be too bad as will cut ply slit/profile from tubes to the transom then reinforce inside under rudder compartment. rest of the tubes length are already supported. I really wanted to make sure the motors and shafts were in excellent alinement, and being able to see through the hull is a good advantage. (note. do not have facilities to make alignment tools). In previous models I have left it towards the end of the build to fix motors couplings and have found alinement to be a bit difficult, especially on smaller boats.

Cheap motor for a quick fit, but what prop gents?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hia ll, I want to fit a drill motor to the Chris-Craft (basically a modified Aerokits Sea Hornet). I want a quick fit, to use with my existing ESCs. I can get a motor for a fiver. I have a shaft, can make couplings, but what size prop would you suggest for such a motor and boat? I want to stay within around 20 Amps for the ESC's sake. I ask only that the boat lifts a bit. Most woodies were not actually that quick, they just looked it. Thanks for any advice. I can make almost anything, but have little or no experience of working models. Cheers, Martin

Warped wood by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Central heating. Death to nice wood. I have had central heating for the first time in my life these last 2 years and my china cabinet, which my Grandad made in the late 1920s has a crack you can pass a match through in the bow top. Grandad would be furious! But I've cut a diagonal in pear and forced it in under the smaller roof and that's sorted that one and the larger roof is already repaired in three corners with the fourth tomorrow. Already getting the slight droop out of the bigger one and glued with epoxy. I was delighted to find the square connector of the Taycol coupling still there along with the original Mersey Marine bow fender. Also the speed controller of my Proxxon drill, which went home very soon after I got the drill, so I ripped it out and wired straight through, so it's been flat out ever since! I wouldn't be without it though! I shall be pressing my epoxy into use to coat the ply both sides, using an old credit card to press it into the grain. Then this 54 year old baby will be good for another 54. Cheers, Martin

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Evenin' Martin, Just back from 'nosh' with Gisela, my camera girl in the vid! She's mean like that too, keeps me hoppin' about like the proverbial cat on the proverbial hot stuff 😡 Can't wait to see the rotating teddy👍 Put a couple of mini Cam lenses in his eyeballs and you'll get a terrific 360° First Person View from the driving seat😁 Re Sea Scout, I took your advice and did the hull in Royal Blue (no navy knickers!😆) or what passes for that here. Anyway I'm pleased how she turned out. OK, I admit I accidentally turned her into a Sport Fishing Boat😁 She's 24" what scale do you think that makes her? I'm looking for crew figures and stuff to fit out the cockpit but I'm not sure what size to look for. I thought maybe 1/20 i.e. a 40 footer? Waddya think? Re Kako; while recently trying (fruitlessly🤔) to make space in the workshop (got two renovations on the go in parallel - saves getting the same tools, rattle cans an' stuff out twice!😁) I ran across the original Kakos and Mabuchis I used in my scratch 53" H class destroyer Hotspur in 1966. She ran off a 4.5V EverReady flat (form not volts😁) battery until Granny took pity and bought me some 6V Lantern batteries! I ran 'em up on a power supply and they turned but now sound like mini football rattles! Think they need new big end shells 😁 Jeez, how many guys under pension age have ever been down to the bitza bazaar looking for 50 thou oversize bearing shells and compression and oil control rings?? Pics show her Sea trials in Radnor Park pond, Folkestone, Kent, summer 1966. Sorry about the quality, only had a Box Brownie 127 in those days and could only afford Gratispool free B/W films🤔 Pentax? Canon? Sony? Not to mention Digital? HD? Wassat? 50 years on I got all three😉 I like Lupins too, preferably the blue and purple ones. BTW, for your steering guy's arms you don't need a separate RC function or channel! You just need a coupling from the rudder control to turn a pulley and cord which turns a suitably scaled pulley attached to the wheel axis. The arms are fixed to the wheel and go with it! Dead simple (to write anyway😁) and no lecktrickery! 😊 OR you could just put one of his hands on the wheel and the other on the throttle. Then use a 'Y' cable to split the ESC cable into two. Connect the second output to a servo which moves the throttle lever via a push-me-pull-you-rod, pulleys and cord or gears or whatever. Sure you can figure out the mechanics better than I. Whatever, have fun and don't electrocute yourself, keep your socks dry😉 Cheers, Doug 😎

Controls problem by malcolmstroud Petty Officer   Posted: 4 months ago
Thank you for your replies! Low battery is not impossible; but it powers the motors fine direct, receiver lights come on, ESC lights come on, and the phone connects to the receiver fine via WiFi, so I assume it's OK. Peter - I will pop along to Bury, probably today, as it's a lovely Sunday morning. Thank you. RNinMunich - I don't have a compatible TX but will look into that at some point. I did consider the 1:350 version, but read that the dies were very old now, and that the Academy 1:400 was more recent and far more accurate. I'll show some pictures of the hull layout later. It was quite a struggle, and I've gone to quite a bit of effort to keep it balanced, with a heavy water pump towards the front to make it go 'down by the bow' (but not sink). Yes, quite ambitious. The hardest part was that the two outer props are incredibly close to the hull, so that only very small motors will fit. I didn't want to go for any sort of flexible coupling as I thought that would lose too much power, and larger motors probably wouldn't fit anyway. I don't really mind if it's slow and hard to manoevre, as that would be realistic. If it doesn't work I may rip the motors out and just pit one big one in the middle and steer by rudder.

NAXOS - Fishing Boat by hecrowell Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 4 months ago
After a time away due to illness and other family issues, I am back to the build of the NAXOS. By accident, I think that I have obtained a suitable power plant for her - it is the motor out of a cordless drill which I can no longer get a battery pack for. Aparently, it runs on 6V to 60V. Wondering if it will require water coolong or not. If so, how does one arrange a "water scoop" for the cooling tube and where is the discharge sent to? Maybe a port in the transom..... As you can see, it has a pinion gear on the shaft and I don't know if I should leave it on and incorporate a prop speed reduction gear or remove it (with heat) and go "direct drive" coupling to the prop shaft. I have a plan for the ESC with BEC and as I love building electronic devices likely will go with "home brew". I am a boat building novice so constructive input appreciated. Have located a source for wood construction material, so hopefully will have something to show next time.

It's a sad day!. by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Yep, built mine with my Dad, a 34" Crash Tender. We used the then new PVA glue and to be honest, 54 years later it still holds well and is waterproof. I really must finish it some day! I confess I never had an IC engine in a boat, but I've always had an ED Racer with water jacket and big brass flywheel. Still have it on my shelf with others, but I could never get the buggers to start! So Dad made sure the Crash Tender had a good electric motor when he spoiled me with it all for my 11th Christmas. I had REP single channel R/C and a Taycol Supermarine motor and Taycol coupling. That's what's in it and will stay in it. Alas the R/C gear was stolen. I could replicate the case, but there just ain't the time for all these things, so an old Mini Hex 1970s Propo set will go in it as a classic curio. I used it for years with the REP on the oyster ponds at Paglesham. Left, centre, right, centre, wiggle right, wiggle right and so on. The Taycol ate batteries! Martin

getting a bit slow?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Mornin' Martin, just to refresh your memory- "Couplings by Westquay Admiral Posted: 1 year ago Isn't it funny how I used my Crash Tender 53 years ago with 27 meg R/C and never ever had any interference problems. Now the fashion victims all want those ugly little cans from Mabuchi or brushless, suddenly the lovely old Taycols are unusable. Rubbish. If modern R/C is that fussy we haven't moved on at all. Maybe because I have an unbroken link to the Taycol and the Crash Tender I see no reason to just give in and use modern stuff I detest. I have never been a fashion victim and I am not starting now. I think this and any other model boats forum and I have reached the limits to our mutual usefulness. I'm off to do things my way. Where I've had help, thanks. Otherwise?............ Martin"