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>> Home > Tags > coupling

coupling
coupling
Sea Commander Ocean yacht by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Hi Garth, looking good👍 Graupner flex couplings ARE still available, cost €24 - https://www.graupner.com/Flex.-shaft- style='background-color:yellow;'>coupling/3345.L/ Cheers Doug 😎

Motor installation by GARTH Commander   Posted: 9 days ago
I had some 12 volt motor out of Black & Decker drills so I will use one I find that if motor isn't installed early it becomes very difficult to mount motors in a completed hull .Line up to shaft & couplings . the other thing is I us a Graupner flex coupling . They work great only problem they are no long available any where .

TAMIYA. King George V. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
Hi Colin, what scale is it? If you Google 'Plastic Magic' you should get lots of example of this from 350 / 400 scale carriers and battleships down to 72 scale Vosper MTB, KM S100 / E-Boat etc. There are also several Plastic magic articles in Model Boats magazine. The general principles are always the same: lightweight miniaturised electronics incl. servos! Do a max payload test on the bare hull as the very first thing. Weigh the major superstructure assemblies and decks and subtract from max payload: that's what's left for electronics and battery! The kit props are generally useless, no pitch, so make your own out of tinplate or 0.5mm brass. can be a little oversize, no one will know😉 Prop shafts and tubes: 2mm OD / 1mm ID brass tube with 1mm silver steel or piano wire shafts. Couplings from shrink sleeve. will dig out some motor types and sources tomorrow, there are also some given in the Model Boats mag articles. That's where I found the Micron Radio tip😊 Can heartily recommend Micron radio for the smallest combination RX and ESC on one tiny board that I've ever seen! Talk to Andy Rutter, he offers excellent advice and will fit tiny connectors and pre-program the RX board to match what you want to do. He also has very very tiny servos which are ideal.👍 http://www.micronradiocontrol.co.uk/ Look under RC components - 'Deltang Ultra micro'. you ain't gonna get no teeny weenier! I went weak today 😲 and ordered a 350 scale Prince of Wales, to match my 350 scale Bismarck, Hood and Ark Royal. Battle of Denmark Straight here we come! Cost a tad more than 25 pence though 🤔 Good luck Doug 😎

Jaydee by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
Hi Ian Looking at the pics it would appear to sit correctly and certainly planes well. If your ballast is forrard it will mean it has to be lifted to plane, at the cost of increased power. If you are still using the Mtronics 600 motor the prop is about right. The specs say 6-12v so running at 7.2 v will probably account for the heating problem. A higher voltage will allow the motor to run at its optimum design speed and cooler. The stall current is 48 amps! I am assuming you have a good a free running prop shaft and tube and the motor and coupling are aligned? Can you post a pic of your prop? Dave

PT109 Refit by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
Hi Dave, glad you found the pics useful, that's what we are all here for n'est ce pas? 😉 may have a few more detail pics in the archive, will have a rummage later. The two 'black boxes' are 'ready ammunition' drums for the Browning 50 cal MGs. You can see them again in pic 14. They sit on an equipment box in front of the cabin, cos on this version there is an extra single 50 cal mounted on the port corner of the cabin. See pic 23!! The one after the starboard prop pic. The penultimate pic shows the MG in detail from the rear - Operator's PoV. The silencers (mufflers in American) have a simple butterfly flap valve to deflect the exhaust into the silencer box with an underwater outlet. BTW: the actuators are missing🤔 They were a simple rod mechanism actuated from the stern deck. Still looking for detail pics! Maybe we could figure out a way of coupling them to a motor sound module for 'Whisper Mode'?? Bit small to see when out on the pond though! Cleaning the glasses helped the eyesight a bit😉 straightening out the crossed eyes and retraining the brain took a little longer 🤔 happy building and exciting but safe sailing, cheers Doug 😎

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by neilmc Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
Standard Saturday Mrs Mac decided I had other things to do before being allowed out to play but I think I've got there, just need to check it's right before gluing up. OK so I lied that I wouldn't be asking more questions on this topic😁😁 The hole has been opened out enough to achieve 3/4" but the photo doesn't really show it. It took some time to achieve it as well more time than I thought, even used my dremel at one point😁. But pmdevlin's tip on using a disc was a great help. The position of the outer tube on the hull needs a slight adjustment but nothing major and still achievable as no glue. I did have a check fit of the motor and came across another issue as there was no way I could achieve alignment of the shaft and motor which was made easier by Doug's universal coupling idea😁. I went for removing the last remaining piece of the old motor mount (should have listened to Dave a year ago) which took about an hour as it was glued in good and proper.😤😤😤😤😤 There is some clearance on the hull from the prop so think I'll be going for a 30mm prop as suggested by Dave as to my surprise mine is 40mm diameter. Hopefully the arrangement is all good and I can use Dave's and Doug's tips on getting it secured. I still need to blank off the water pick up and fit the new rudder tube. Also I think the motor alignment will still be interesting as after removing the last bit of the old mount the motor was interfering with the bulkhead behind it so removed so it. Also will possibly need to take some out of the hull centre piece to achieve a perfect alignment. Hopefully tomorrow will go well as will also fitting the oiler as seen on Robbob's Build Blog.

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by neilmc Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
I did wonder last night as couldn't find one with the right dimensions. But did go shopping on modelboatbits- an oiler an universal coupling and an A frame hopefully they'll be here for weekend not that I'll need them all as lots to do as you know 😁😁😁😁

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Neil, while you're on that site get one of these shaft alignment couplings http://www.modelboatbits.com/UNIVERSAL-ALIGNMENT-TOOL Check the diameters of your prop shaft and motor shaft before you order. They are a great tool for lining up the motor with the shaft. (I make my own on the lathe😉) Cheers

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Neil Just about to go out so short reply Your shaft is 1 1/4" above the hull bottom, so almost 1/2" too high from the hull. If your rudder is 1 3/8" from the stern this will be ok and I would leave it alone for now. Block up the skeg hole. Yes 3 1/8" is the distance from the stern to my shaft. You need to measure the distances from each sides of your hull to find the true centre and mark this on the hull. I am not convinced your shaft is truly square. It needs to be equidistant from each side. If you open up the slot in the hull you will be able to position the shaft correctly in line and at a shallower angle. As long as there is room to fit the prop the shaft can be positioned nearer the rudder. If there is still room inside the hull to fit the coupling and motor then the longer shaft may be OK. Sorry have to go. Back later today so please ask if you need more guidance. Don't worry too much about making the slot too big, you can repair with filling once the shaft is correctly placed. Cheers Dave

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Oh no! I hope you haven't glued and filled it yet😡 If so you're gonna have to cut/break it out again move it forward and adjust the motor mount accordingly. Frankly the length of Dave-M's shaft (😲) is irrelevant. That depends on where he wanted to mount the motor and the length of the coupling he used. What you should have done is- 1 Check the length on the plan before you ordered, 2 Check alignment and position of the prop end relative to rudder etc BEFORE fixing it permanently. Back to the drawing / hacking board 🤔 Cheers Doug 😎

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Neil, yes, very similar. Could be regarded to as a first step before applying Eze-Kote to give it a harder, knock and almost everything else resistant surface. Hammerite then sticks to it like the proverbial to the blanket and you have a super clean 'engine compartment' dead easy to keep clean. 😊 80 quid for a brushless !!! Do you want it gold plated or what? My Propdrive 2830 cost less than 20 knicker from Hobbyking and was delivered almost before I ordered it! Just make sure it comes from the UK or EU (still!?🤔) warehouse and not USA or Global. otherwise you might get stuck for import tax 😡 For the motor mount / shaft alignment: no one said it was easy, but Nothing's Impossible', maybe that's why I drive Toyota!!😁 back end is determined by the diameter of the prop you want to fit, which in the case of brushless motor should be roughly the same diameter as the brushless (outrunner). In my case 28mm motor and 30mm prop. This defines how far you can lift the aft end of the shaft, leave at least 1cm between the prop tip and the hull! This reduces unwanted interaction between the vortex from the prop and the lamina flow along the hull, result; more forward thrust and better rudder effect. (Didn't spend 30 odd years talking to shipyards for nowt😉) If you have plan (or at least a sketch - take some measurements if you don't have one of these and make a sketch) of the keel and existing motor mount; project back from the newly determined exit point of the shaft. Check how far forward you need to go to be able to comfortably fit the motor mount with good alignment and purchase a shaft of appropriate length. Cut a wood block to fit around the keel as the basic mount and 'fiddle' with it until your motor and mounting (e.g. the Robbe / Romarin 400 mount) aligns with the shaft line. Alignment is checked by running the motor at a fixed low speed with an ammeter showing the current it draws. Shim the motor mount up / down, and shift slowly from side to side until the current reading is a minimum. Then glue and screw everything in place quick before anything moves! Takes almost longer to describe than to do😉 The coupling type shown in my photo is called a 'Steg' coupling here in Germany (don't know the English🤔) and available from Krick Modellbau, for various motor shaft / prop shaft diameters, here the link to their English page- http://www.krickshop.de/?shop=krick_e Part number for the 3.17mm (1/8") to 4.0mm version I used is 63902. part number for the motor mount I used for my 28mm brushless is 42117. Advantages (to me at least!) they are not as long as the traditional UJ and Cardan types, they are resilient but don't flop about like the UJ types so are much easier to fit and align. Cos they are shorter you can use 'em for mountings in confined spaces. And they don't make no noise!! 😉 One final tip (may not be so useful on hard plywood built boats!). When I had this problem with my destroyer I sharpened the end of an 8mm alu tube (same as the shaft tube dia) and used it to bore back from the hull exit to the last bulkhead before the motor mounts. the bulkheads though were 1/4" balsa! Nice and soft man 😉 Hope this helps more than confuses, but it all worked for me! Cheers and happy fiddling, Doug 😎

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Neil, here's my 'twopenn'orth' on this subject w.r.t. the brushless upgrade in my 24" Sea Scout. I'm happy with the relationship between prop and rudder so am concentrating on the motor mount and coupling now. Pics show the motor removed and the new one, old and new mounts and new coupling. Alignment will be done with the help of an ammeter as usual. Minimum current draw = best alignment 😊 Insides have been cleaned up and sealed with Eze-Kote 1 part polyester resin. Lovely stuff, just wash out the brushes with hot water and you can use 'em again! When all is correct the 'engine compartment' will be painted with white gloss Hammerite. 2nd last pic shows old plastic prop (50mm) and new brass one (30mm) matched to the brushless. Have fun, Greetings Doug 😎

Richards 48" Swordsman by rmwall107 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi olly49 having just looked up your motor, I bet it goes like stink!!👍 You have approx 2X the Kv i am starting with😭. I am new to electrickery so i am not too sure about the significance of the 6s?? i belive it is to do with discharge rate? Could you enlighten me as to the corrolation between 6s and motor RPM and most importantly speed. I understand the difference between parallel and series for battery coupling but I do not get the S rating. Thanks in advance for your help, Richard

what motor by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
OK. So it's 4" smaller than the Sea Scout I am currently renovating and upgrading from a 50ies Taycol motor to brushless! So keep the 'stuf' lightweight. When I asked the same question for the Sea Scout a few months ago I got the following advice from Canabus, who seems to have considerable experience in this field 👍 "All from Hobbyking. Motor propdrive V2 2830- 1000kv 370watts 3.175mm shaft(9190000328-0)3S or 4S lipo battery. ESC 30A car(HK-30A)( XT60 connectors required), program card (HKPROG-CARD)can be used on the larger ones in the series. Lipo battery Turnigy 1000mah 3S 30C (T1000.3s.20) 89grams 75 x 33 x 19mm or a Turnigy 1500mah 3S 25C (T1500.3S.25) 113 grams 80 x 34 x 25 mm both have XT60 connectors. Prop about a 2 blade 30mm 1.4 pitch" I actually opted for a 3 blade prop and a 3S 3000mAh I already had, but bought the ESC and motor recommended and am now fitting them cos it made sense, was not expensive and came pretty quick - make sure it comes from the UK or EU warehouse to avoid possible import tax from Hong Kong or USA !!! This would be more than adequate to give your boat some Oomph! It needs more than my cabin Cruiser! For the RC buy a complete set already matched and 'bound' so you have the minimum of fiddling about as a rookie😉 I can thoroughly recommend the Turnigy HT6, AKA TGY-I6 , ~US$45 also from Hobby King. In a couple of hours one evening I could programme two models into it and get it to do what I wanted instead of what the factory thought we would want for plane or chopper! Instructions are quite clear, logical and lead you through step by step. It comes with a 68 page manual! But much you can skip if you don't intend to go flying with your boat! Attached is a pic from my manual with German branding (REELY)! But it's the same beast as the TGY-I6, second pic!! The whole package should cost around a 100quid and you're RTR! The RC set has 6 channels so you have lots of scope later for special functions; fire monitors, lights, horn, motor noise etc etc 👍 By the way; the motor comes with 3.5mm bullet connectors, and of course I only had 4mm 'other halves' but you can also get connectors, loose or fitted to cables and adapters at Hobby King. (You can solder them on with your 4lb hatchet!!!) Hope this helps, Cheers Doug 😎 PS don't forget a suitable coupling to match the 3.17mm motor shaft to your prop shaft (whatever that is, 4mm?)

Billings Sea King in need of TLC by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Good👍 Then you can put in a coupling to match the starboard one as well😉 I wonder if those 'springy things' work like a slipping clutch🤔 I'm scared of unwinding them in reverse as well😲 Don't trust 'em! Cheers Doug 😎