Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info
Guest
Login Below
Join Us On Social Media!
   
Get The Model Boats App!
Apple App Store
Android app on Google Play


Help Support This Website
£
or enter custom amount

(Non Contributor)

Help support this free
website and donate.



£285 a year is needed to keep the website and apps online. Please consider donating £5 or more to help towards these fees.
All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

Many thanks for your kind support.

Model Boats Website Team


Donation History
December 2017: 1 person
November 2017: 13 people
October 2017: 9 people
September 2017: 15 people
August 2017: 10 people
July 2017: 16 people
June 2017: 8 people
May 2017: 8 people
April 2017: 20 people


Unique Visitors This Month

Website Members

Terms and Conditions
Privacy Policy
Advertising
Contact


Model Boats Website
Active Users (29)
Login or Register
To Remove This Ad

Login or Register
To Remove This Ad
>> Home > Tags > coupling

coupling
coupling
Prop Shaft Grease by boaty Commander   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi Bryan Best way to remove the propshaft is to undo the universal joint at the top then slide the shaft out through the stern tube . Sometimes this may be difficult if the rudder gets in the way. If you remove the prop there is a good chance you can extract the shaft without too much difficulty but be careful not to bend the shaft. Referring to the latter it is advisable to remove the rudder but on some occasions I have bent the rudder slightly though there is an element of risk in this as the rudder has to be realigned. When reassembling the shaft and universal coupling check that after fitting the prop there is adequate clearance between the prop hub and the stern tube and the same with the coupling so the assembly can rotate freely without rubbing against the tube . Regards Boaty😊

Sea Queen Prop shaft by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Hi AndyG Not sure what type of coupling was supplied but I use a common Universal coupling on my 48" Sea Queen and use a brushless 42 size 850Kv water cooled motor of 700 watts and it is happy driving a Prop Shop prop of 42mm at 45 amp on full throttle. Power is from an 11.1v Lipo of at least 2200 mA but Nimhs would work, just not as fast and less duration. My motor is mounted in the main cabin and I have no problem with the prop shaft. Originally designed for IC power so perhaps you have heard of problems when we used such powerful and not so well controlled devices. My model goes on the plane very easily and any more power would make it unstable. Pics attached to show my set up. You can just see the coupling in front of the motor.

Sea Queen Prop shaft by AndyG009 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 23 days ago
Hi all Have purchased a Sea Queen kit, and after getting info from this site plan to fit a brushless motor and Lipo's. Have been advised to change coupling from supplied, for one that will take the power - comments please. Also is there likely to be problems with more power going through the long M4 prop shaft ? I would rathersolve problems now before boat is built, so any help would be useful.

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Fair enough pmdevlin I accept what you are saying, however it started as a motor not being big enough for the size of the propeller and then went on further as the shaft was 4BA not 4mm and I could not locate a smaller prop, a plain brass tube and stainless shaft has been fitted,way back in the 60's when it was first started and as I knew nothing about boats in 2015 when I finished the basic structure, I did not know that it would have been the smart thing to fit a shaft with bearings. So this is the way I am going to go, I have ordered the 850 brush motor and the adapter to fit the motor shaft to my red coupling,this I have been assured will be more than big enough to drive the prop without getting hot or needing a water jacket, if this is the case when I fit it and sail it, then result, if not I will then have to go down the path that you suggest, I have nothing to lose trying the larger motor and everything to gain if it works. By the way the batteries are all new

Motor problem by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
here is the problem Richard, when you ask for advise on an open forum, you get a few individual takes!😁 IMO, its not so much the motor at this stage, its the ba thread thing. You can stick a Ferrari v12 in there, but you still need to consider how to attach the thing that is actually going to drive you along, a prop, be it 2, 3 or more blades Whilst buying the 850 motor, take the boat into the shop and get the bearings for your outer tube, and a new mm stainless shaft, and any couplings that are needed. If the outershaft is a size that will not accommodate any new bearings, then it will have to come out, regardless of the motor (don't forget a mount) that you buy. The suggested nylon 2 blade prop sizes that Havelock has posted in the motor spec are what I suggested a few days ago. Don't forget, that spec etc is generic, its not going to be "fit all" its down to you to test and establish what works best for your boat, we don't know its weight, and the condition of your batteries etc.

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi all I have located an 850 motor and mount at Howes Models in Kiddlington not too far from where I live in Malmesbury, for £22.50 however the prop shaft is 4BA, the coupling is not a problem as I can get the insert for the larger motor to fit the existing red coupling, but I can only seem to find 4mm 40 or 45mm propellers which are a fraction bigger than the 4BA which I know will screw on but they would have a bit of a wobble on the threads and could give me an out of balance vibration, apart from drilling out the old propshaft assy and fitting a new 4mm one what else can I do? or does anyone have a old 4BA prop they can let me have?

Matching motor to Propellor by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
HI Scotty, First of all, Shaft, the length is the critical bit, the roller bearing shafts are superb, so shaft Diameter, probably 4mm would suit your needs. Coupling, the center is a U/J, with inserts of the correct size, 5mm plain for the motor, 4mm threaded for the shaft. Prop. 60mm, Raboesch from Deans, 4mm thread. Contact Deans, they will sort all the right bits you need into a package. Mark

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Scout13 I only have one battery connected at a time, with two batteries in situ I can use the other one when the first one is flagging,to give a longer running time, I could put them in Parallel but prefer to know I have a charged battery to use with an approx running time before it fails altogether. I have made a cover over the shaft coupling to prevent any cables coming into contact with it should they move, there is plenty of air space around this cover as well but the photo does not show it.Dave M the pond is weed free and the prop is the recommended one in the plans for the boat, as far as I am aware it is no larger dia. than the motor, but I will check that.As far as the weights I had to put lead in the front and mid section to get the boat down into the water as it was sitting on the hull and was not stable, I had some lead in the back as well as I used a spirit level when I was sorting it out in the bath, however when I first tried it in the pond the back end was too low in the water when it was going, so I took the heavier weight from the section just rear of the motor compartment and swapped it for the lighter weight just forward of the motor compartment, although this was better when tried again the stern was too low when it was moving so I removed the weights from the stern and as far as I could see it was just right, stationary the boat looked levelish but when moving on full throttle, the bow came up and had a nice bow wave with the stern down below the water level but with a (for want of the technical term) a hollow wave, when on a slower throttle it was fine and sailed nicely at all speed levels. What worries me is that the motor shown fitted in the boat was supposed to be the better motor than the photo of the one outside of the boat, would this benefit from a water cooled motor as to be honest I would not want to alter the top speed of the boat as it is just about right . just to let you all know I have a background knowledge of electrics so do know the difference between parallel and series voltages😊

Aero kits Sea Queen by Rex3644 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
[Score: 8/10] 46" Aero kits Sea Queen Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type 45mm) Direct Drive to a 3650 watercooled (2 Blade X Type) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 7Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Hobby wing 100 amp w/c (100Amps) ESC - Comments: I felt the need to build something large from scratch having built Sea Nymph Sea Rover aero kits Swordsman kit. Many GRP based I/C powered before converting many of them to Brushless power. In Feb 2017 I bought plans from ebay in readiness for a family trip to Wales. My brother in law has a well kitted workshop in which he produced Sailing dingy kits before retiring. The aim was to produce this boat for the least possible cost. Thankfully there are lots of ply off cuts in Wales plus an 8x5 sheet of 1.5mm so I set about making my own kit during the time I was there. The motor was to be a Marx Decaperm selected from my bits box which I chose to set up using the geared drive. On the first launch performance was lacking to say the least so the motor mount was adjusted to direct drive but alas performance was not much better then everything stopped. The wires on the commutator had become unsolder end a common problem apparently I've now fitted a 3650 brushless stolen from an early attempt of a Huntsman 31 built for my Grand daughter which had replaced the Graupner 600, she is now 19 and interested in other things beginning with B. Having fitted the brushless a lot of vibration was experienced his was traced to a misaligned coupling,next outing will be with a huco type of fitting just to check it out roll on Thursday.

Aerials etc. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Norm, A horizontal 'long wire' antenna is strung between the 3 aft masts only. Feeder cables at the Island end. In the attached photo you can just see this. The little black 'blobs' are the ceramic insulators between the tensioning cables and the actual antenna wire. The forward masts were rigged as vertical whip antennas. Often the long wire was for transmitting and the forward whips for receiving to minimise co-location interference between them. The fact that one is horizontal and the other vertical gives an additional 20dB decoupling between them, making HF reception (e.g. orders broadcasts from shore stations) much more sensitive. The forward port mast also seems to have an 'H' shaped direction finding antenna on top! Formed by four dipole antennas in two H shapes joined in the middle. The so called Huff-Duff antenna, for HFDF. Cheers Doug 😎 Correction😲: Forward starboard mast has the DF antenna!!

Sea Commander Ocean yacht by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Garth, looking good👍 Graupner flex couplings ARE still available, cost €24 - https://www.graupner.com/Flex.-shaft- style='background-color:yellow;'>coupling/3345.L/ Cheers Doug 😎

Motor installation by GARTH Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
I had some 12 volt motor out of Black & Decker drills so I will use one I find that if motor isn't installed early it becomes very difficult to mount motors in a completed hull .Line up to shaft & couplings . the other thing is I us a Graupner flex coupling . They work great only problem they are no long available any where .

TAMIYA. King George V. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Colin, what scale is it? If you Google 'Plastic Magic' you should get lots of example of this from 350 / 400 scale carriers and battleships down to 72 scale Vosper MTB, KM S100 / E-Boat etc. There are also several Plastic magic articles in Model Boats magazine. The general principles are always the same: lightweight miniaturised electronics incl. servos! Do a max payload test on the bare hull as the very first thing. Weigh the major superstructure assemblies and decks and subtract from max payload: that's what's left for electronics and battery! The kit props are generally useless, no pitch, so make your own out of tinplate or 0.5mm brass. can be a little oversize, no one will know😉 Prop shafts and tubes: 2mm OD / 1mm ID brass tube with 1mm silver steel or piano wire shafts. Couplings from shrink sleeve. will dig out some motor types and sources tomorrow, there are also some given in the Model Boats mag articles. That's where I found the Micron Radio tip😊 Can heartily recommend Micron radio for the smallest combination RX and ESC on one tiny board that I've ever seen! Talk to Andy Rutter, he offers excellent advice and will fit tiny connectors and pre-program the RX board to match what you want to do. He also has very very tiny servos which are ideal.👍 http://www.micronradiocontrol.co.uk/ Look under RC components - 'Deltang Ultra micro'. you ain't gonna get no teeny weenier! I went weak today 😲 and ordered a 350 scale Prince of Wales, to match my 350 scale Bismarck, Hood and Ark Royal. Battle of Denmark Straight here we come! Cost a tad more than 25 pence though 🤔 Good luck Doug 😎

Jaydee by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Ian Looking at the pics it would appear to sit correctly and certainly planes well. If your ballast is forrard it will mean it has to be lifted to plane, at the cost of increased power. If you are still using the Mtronics 600 motor the prop is about right. The specs say 6-12v so running at 7.2 v will probably account for the heating problem. A higher voltage will allow the motor to run at its optimum design speed and cooler. The stall current is 48 amps! I am assuming you have a good a free running prop shaft and tube and the motor and coupling are aligned? Can you post a pic of your prop? Dave

PT109 Refit by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Dave, glad you found the pics useful, that's what we are all here for n'est ce pas? 😉 may have a few more detail pics in the archive, will have a rummage later. The two 'black boxes' are 'ready ammunition' drums for the Browning 50 cal MGs. You can see them again in pic 14. They sit on an equipment box in front of the cabin, cos on this version there is an extra single 50 cal mounted on the port corner of the cabin. See pic 23!! The one after the starboard prop pic. The penultimate pic shows the MG in detail from the rear - Operator's PoV. The silencers (mufflers in American) have a simple butterfly flap valve to deflect the exhaust into the silencer box with an underwater outlet. BTW: the actuators are missing🤔 They were a simple rod mechanism actuated from the stern deck. Still looking for detail pics! Maybe we could figure out a way of coupling them to a motor sound module for 'Whisper Mode'?? Bit small to see when out on the pond though! Cleaning the glasses helped the eyesight a bit😉 straightening out the crossed eyes and retraining the brain took a little longer 🤔 happy building and exciting but safe sailing, cheers Doug 😎