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>> Home > Tags > coupling

coupling
coupling
Warped wood by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Central heating. Death to nice wood. I have had central heating for the first time in my life these last 2 years and my china cabinet, which my Grandad made in the late 1920s has a crack you can pass a match through in the bow top. Grandad would be furious! But I've cut a diagonal in pear and forced it in under the smaller roof and that's sorted that one and the larger roof is already repaired in three corners with the fourth tomorrow. Already getting the slight droop out of the bigger one and glued with epoxy. I was delighted to find the square connector of the Taycol coupling still there along with the original Mersey Marine bow fender. Also the speed controller of my Proxxon drill, which went home very soon after I got the drill, so I ripped it out and wired straight through, so it's been flat out ever since! I wouldn't be without it though! I shall be pressing my epoxy into use to coat the ply both sides, using an old credit card to press it into the grain. Then this 54 year old baby will be good for another 54. Cheers, Martin

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Evenin' Martin, Just back from 'nosh' with Gisela, my camera girl in the vid! She's mean like that too, keeps me hoppin' about like the proverbial cat on the proverbial hot stuff 😡 Can't wait to see the rotating teddy👍 Put a couple of mini Cam lenses in his eyeballs and you'll get a terrific 360° First Person View from the driving seat😁 Re Sea Scout, I took your advice and did the hull in Royal Blue (no navy knickers!😆) or what passes for that here. Anyway I'm pleased how she turned out. OK, I admit I accidentally turned her into a Sport Fishing Boat😁 She's 24" what scale do you think that makes her? I'm looking for crew figures and stuff to fit out the cockpit but I'm not sure what size to look for. I thought maybe 1/20 i.e. a 40 footer? Waddya think? Re Kako; while recently trying (fruitlessly🤔) to make space in the workshop (got two renovations on the go in parallel - saves getting the same tools, rattle cans an' stuff out twice!😁) I ran across the original Kakos and Mabuchis I used in my scratch 53" H class destroyer Hotspur in 1966. She ran off a 4.5V EverReady flat (form not volts😁) battery until Granny took pity and bought me some 6V Lantern batteries! I ran 'em up on a power supply and they turned but now sound like mini football rattles! Think they need new big end shells 😁 Jeez, how many guys under pension age have ever been down to the bitza bazaar looking for 50 thou oversize bearing shells and compression and oil control rings?? Pics show her Sea trials in Radnor Park pond, Folkestone, Kent, summer 1966. Sorry about the quality, only had a Box Brownie 127 in those days and could only afford Gratispool free B/W films🤔 Pentax? Canon? Sony? Not to mention Digital? HD? Wassat? 50 years on I got all three😉 I like Lupins too, preferably the blue and purple ones. BTW, for your steering guy's arms you don't need a separate RC function or channel! You just need a coupling from the rudder control to turn a pulley and cord which turns a suitably scaled pulley attached to the wheel axis. The arms are fixed to the wheel and go with it! Dead simple (to write anyway😁) and no lecktrickery! 😊 OR you could just put one of his hands on the wheel and the other on the throttle. Then use a 'Y' cable to split the ESC cable into two. Connect the second output to a servo which moves the throttle lever via a push-me-pull-you-rod, pulleys and cord or gears or whatever. Sure you can figure out the mechanics better than I. Whatever, have fun and don't electrocute yourself, keep your socks dry😉 Cheers, Doug 😎

Controls problem by malcolmstroud Petty Officer   Posted: 20 days ago
Thank you for your replies! Low battery is not impossible; but it powers the motors fine direct, receiver lights come on, ESC lights come on, and the phone connects to the receiver fine via WiFi, so I assume it's OK. Peter - I will pop along to Bury, probably today, as it's a lovely Sunday morning. Thank you. RNinMunich - I don't have a compatible TX but will look into that at some point. I did consider the 1:350 version, but read that the dies were very old now, and that the Academy 1:400 was more recent and far more accurate. I'll show some pictures of the hull layout later. It was quite a struggle, and I've gone to quite a bit of effort to keep it balanced, with a heavy water pump towards the front to make it go 'down by the bow' (but not sink). Yes, quite ambitious. The hardest part was that the two outer props are incredibly close to the hull, so that only very small motors will fit. I didn't want to go for any sort of flexible coupling as I thought that would lose too much power, and larger motors probably wouldn't fit anyway. I don't really mind if it's slow and hard to manoevre, as that would be realistic. If it doesn't work I may rip the motors out and just pit one big one in the middle and steer by rudder.

NAXOS - Fishing Boat by hecrowell Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 30 days ago
After a time away due to illness and other family issues, I am back to the build of the NAXOS. By accident, I think that I have obtained a suitable power plant for her - it is the motor out of a cordless drill which I can no longer get a battery pack for. Aparently, it runs on 6V to 60V. Wondering if it will require water coolong or not. If so, how does one arrange a "water scoop" for the cooling tube and where is the discharge sent to? Maybe a port in the transom..... As you can see, it has a pinion gear on the shaft and I don't know if I should leave it on and incorporate a prop speed reduction gear or remove it (with heat) and go "direct drive" coupling to the prop shaft. I have a plan for the ESC with BEC and as I love building electronic devices likely will go with "home brew". I am a boat building novice so constructive input appreciated. Have located a source for wood construction material, so hopefully will have something to show next time.

It's a sad day!. by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Yep, built mine with my Dad, a 34" Crash Tender. We used the then new PVA glue and to be honest, 54 years later it still holds well and is waterproof. I really must finish it some day! I confess I never had an IC engine in a boat, but I've always had an ED Racer with water jacket and big brass flywheel. Still have it on my shelf with others, but I could never get the buggers to start! So Dad made sure the Crash Tender had a good electric motor when he spoiled me with it all for my 11th Christmas. I had REP single channel R/C and a Taycol Supermarine motor and Taycol coupling. That's what's in it and will stay in it. Alas the R/C gear was stolen. I could replicate the case, but there just ain't the time for all these things, so an old Mini Hex 1970s Propo set will go in it as a classic curio. I used it for years with the REP on the oyster ponds at Paglesham. Left, centre, right, centre, wiggle right, wiggle right and so on. The Taycol ate batteries! Martin

getting a bit slow?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Mornin' Martin, just to refresh your memory- "Couplings by Westquay Admiral Posted: 1 year ago Isn't it funny how I used my Crash Tender 53 years ago with 27 meg R/C and never ever had any interference problems. Now the fashion victims all want those ugly little cans from Mabuchi or brushless, suddenly the lovely old Taycols are unusable. Rubbish. If modern R/C is that fussy we haven't moved on at all. Maybe because I have an unbroken link to the Taycol and the Crash Tender I see no reason to just give in and use modern stuff I detest. I have never been a fashion victim and I am not starting now. I think this and any other model boats forum and I have reached the limits to our mutual usefulness. I'm off to do things my way. Where I've had help, thanks. Otherwise?............ Martin"

Sea Queen prop shaft by AndyG009 Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Based on what has been said, what I have done is order a length of 5 mm SS longer than required. Only problem that I have is that there appears to be (based on a 300 mm length) is that the SS and the Raboesch bearings are supposed to be 5 mm diameter, but either the bearing is less than 5 mm or the steel is greater than 5 mm. So the SS will likely need reducing slightly (very slightly) in diameter, and once cut to length a M5 tread on the prop end. This will mean that there would not be two couplings. Will let people know how it goes once SS arrives and it gets 'modified'.......

Sea Queen prop shaft by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Heartily agree Rex 👍 Two such couplings in series is a guarantee for misalignment and high vibration potential 🤔 which wouldn't do the 'posh' bearings much good! 😡 I would move the motor. Bon chance, Doug 😎

Sea Queen prop shaft by Rex3644 Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
What is the KV of your motor and how many volts do you intend to use? The theory is that this is how it should be done and in practice I Have done this setup with Huco type couplings which turned over very smoothly but they could not handle the high revs ie14.000 The Radio Active couplings are first class but again I have experienced some balance issues and vibration with them. I worry slightly that the length of 2 couplings together is somewhat long but I may be totally wrong. All you can do is to try it I shall follow with interest

MAS 562 update by CB90 Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
Skinned the frames added deck and splash rail also started on cabin and superstructure, added rudder and installed twin brushed Graupner 600 motors via Graupner style direct couplings. Motor mounting system through a bulkhead gives extra support to motors which mount on to end of the shafts. currently adding a rudder servo mount, as rudder is a close copy of the real boat's and still functional.

Sea Queen prop shaft by AndyG009 Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Am about to fit a Raboesch 5mm prop shaft in a Sea Queen, and beacause of length am looking at fitting two Radio Active HD couplings. One will be 5 to 5 mm and the second 5 to 6 mm (the motor). Any one done this ? Any problems ?

Help Needed new Builder Billings St Canute by kmbcsecretary Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
not used the plank benders before richard i have made my own plank steamer to soften the planks for bending using a wallpaper stripper with a length of copper pipe fixed to the end to place the planks in works a treat 😎 may i remind you richard i noticed there is no strengthener on the joint below where the motor couplings is, i know it goes below the planking line but you could still place a strengthener above the planking line in side the hull

7th April by CB90 Commander   Posted: 3 months ago
Connect rudder to the mounted servo, servo box completed and glued into position, servo was mounted this way to leave the max height for rudder tube, as stern of the boat is narrow and when on the plane will be deep in the water. also the servo could be glued to the hull and the internal frame. Part of coupling attached, waiting for the motor! Also note some strengthening around the frame base, with right angled scrap. Reused cutaway plastic to make an inner sealed hatch this will be stuck down with ice hockey tape.

Help Needed new Builder Billings St Canute by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Evenin' All, attached the Billings instructions. See Fig. 2, page 18 and Fig. 13, page 29. Seems there are already cut outs in the keel for motor fitting! Seems to me that the motor could be bolted to a simple cross piece which is then bolted or glued to bulkhead #4. Max possible diameter of motor (without having to butcher the keel) can be measured from the profile given in Fig. 13. Your photo shows the motor too far aft, too close to the shaft. The mount should not sit on the bulkhead but forward of it in the recess in the keel. Billings designer obviously foresaw a longer coupling and a smaller motor. Maybe a 400 can size!? I agree, the Billings instructions are more than a bit meagre. 🤔 I've also noticed that the German translation is better and makes more sense than the English version 🤔 If you need any help with that let me know!😉 Cheers Doug 😎

Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi MouldBuilder I use solid joints for motor to shaft coupling, but, Banggood have metal universal joints which come in different hole sizes. Canbus