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Cabin aft is now completed! I had to use a bit of Bondo (P38). To tidy up the seam that was left. From joining the two pieces of Balsa wood! The Balsa wood made it very easy to shape the cabin aft! The Port lights are optional in this kit. They give two more Port light, If you want to port them on. I used the measurements given then. I drew a circle with my compass. About 1/2" or so. I didn't have a 1/2" drill. So I improvised. I use a 1/32" drill. went around the circle. Then cut the balsa wood with my exacto! Then routed the hole with my Dremel! Next is the moulding that goes around the bottom of the cabin!
Evenin' Fred, just got back from shopping & car-wash, -3C° and still snowing 😡 so no sailing for a while😭 Thinks; must chuck my hovercraft together 😉 Re: marking out - use a medium tip red felt marker and it'll show up on anything (except perhaps red satin pyjamas!!😲😁) If you've got a mini-drill (Dremel or similar) just whiz the paint off where you need to glue with a mini sanding disc. No great shakes, we've all had to do it, especially with renovations. Cheers Doug 😎
Hi Graham I usually use the dremel to remove as much of the epoxy around the shaft, then get a big lump hammer and hit the end of the shaft to break the seal. Depending on how well you fitted the shaft it normally comes loose after a couple of taps and can then be tapped out from inside.
you could use a dremel and grind some away. I have used the brute force and Tapped the shaft inwards if a few taps aren't enough then a couple of harder whacks should do the trick to loosen it. then pull it out from under the boat. It has always worked for me.
Someone didn't like cleaning up and sanding did they?? 😡 More power to your Dremel deepdiver (hope the Bulldog doesn't do that!!😉) I suspect I will find something similar when I open up the ancient Billing Fish Cutter that I inherited from my Aunt. No idea how she got hold of it! Will thus watch with great interest how you cope with this lot, cheers Doug 😎
Hello everyone. I’m a relative novice with 3 projects on the go at the moment. Project 1 is a Riva Aquarama, which stalled at the stringer stage. Project 2 is a smaller Riva Aquarama which stalled at the planking stage. Project 3 and the subject of this build blog is an Aerokits Sea Commander, photos to follow. Kit delivered Tues 9 January and spent about 6 hours on it so far. Using typical PVA glue and trying to avoid any brass pins choosing instead clamps of various shapes and sizes and liberal application of masking tape. It’s a good kit and the pieces have gone together well so far. Stringers were a challenge as always, but 30 minutes of soaking got them to bend to the right shape. Next stage is chamfering the false rebates along the keel, chamfering the stringers and the bottom hull sides for a neat fit. That will Be Monday night and Wednesday evening’s work. I have a Dremel which should make that job easier. I would be keen to hear of any motor/shaft mods anyone recommends. Also, any ideas on final finish colours or schemes, may consider mahogany and lime deck? Thanks
Laser cut kit from Barracuda RC Boats, N Carolina, USA. Baltic birch plywood false keel, ribs/frames, hull sheathing, deck and cabins. No formal plans; I was able to source a handful of B&W archival photos from the USCG website. Fortunately I was able to procure a motherload of archival photos and a few hard to read layout drawings from Mr. Timothy Dring, LCDR, USN (Ret.). He is co-author of "American Coastal Rescue Craft", which is the "bible" if you will, of such. I do sometimes thank the internet. I am certain that without his assistance, my efforts on this wouldn't have been as enjoyable. The kit was also void of fittings, which I was aware of prior to purchase, so I invested in a 3D printer. That I've used to a limited degree, due to searching for parts in the correct file format is mind-numbing! I have globally sourced fittings; USA, UK, ASIA. As a matter of fact, the searchlights I got from this Model Boat Shop were 3D printed, and I was able to fit 5mm LEDs into them. I'd like to get a couple more and put some superbright 12v LED drone lamps in them for use on my 35" towboat. Many deck fittings are handmade when possible, the cleats and fairleads are from Cornwall Boats, UK. (Very reasonable & diverse source, if you didn't already know.) I try to keep wood natural when detail allows it, as I never have enjoyed painting over natural grain. Her decks are covered with 1/16" scribed basswood sheathing from earthandtree.com, which is normally used for wainscoting dollhouse walls. All my boats that have wood decks are covered with scribed sheathing; I feel it makes 'em look "sexy". Believe it or not, the idea for wainscoting came from finding 3/16" at Hobby Lobby's dollhouse department. A couple of feet x 3.5" was about $16, so I found a less expensive source that also had more selections (earthandtree.com) The rail stanchions are 3/16" square dowels with 2 corners rounded over on the Dremel router table. Leaving their base square, I fit a square peg into a round hole with no glue to facilitate removal, and also for ease of replacing broken ones, which is inevitable. The rail is 1/16" brass rod that also is readily removable. The stern rail is stationary on the lower half, and the chain & wire stanchions are removable for towing ops. The deck coamings and knuckle are African mahogany strips, other mahogany accents came from leftovers of a prior build. I also try on all my boats, to incorporate vintage leftover scribed sheathing salvaged from my late Father's builds, so I know he's got a part in my builds. Note-the raised deck section between the aft ladder trunk and towing bit is actually a laminated deckhouse he made for the Frigate Essex. Unfortunately, he was unable to build that kit due to Alzheimer's disease in his latter years. (I blame that mostly on the hazardous fumes from the airplane "dope" & glue he used when building RC planes in the 60s & 70s.) I use polyurethane instead of resin due to COPD, 37 yrs of smoking, I quit 2.5 yrs ago. The driveline consists of: 775 Johnson DC main (3500 RPM@12V), Harbor Models 4mm x 14" shaft w/brass stuffing box, Raboesch 75mm 5-blade brass wheel (not OEM), 5mm U-joint couplers, Dimart 320A fan-cooled ESC. Handmade wooden teardrop rudder on a 3/8" sternpost, 1/4" tiller arm steered by a Halcion sail winch servo and cable system. Flysky 6 channel. The nav lights and other illumination are Lighthouse 9v LEDs, also a GoolRC Receiver controlled flashing blue Law Enforcement light. Obviously, I put the cart before the horse and completed the topsides and below deck before finishing the outer hull, but the Wx and season change dictated such. Can't wait for Spring!
Hi Ed you have an even older version than I do, the 27Meg job, I have the 40Meg version and the 'rope' is about 1/8" thick and round! Seems OK. Re tyres: that's why I tongue in cheek suggested a Dremel powered machine to do the job 😉 Cheers Doug 😎
Hi Neil, It's the 'thin' that cuts!😡 You're supposed to use the 'rope' supplied with the boat dampen and twist the end to get it through the holes in the tyres. Then loop de loop 😉 BTW: the tyres seem to me to have an amazing amount of tread left. Most tugs I've seen they are almost bald! Think I'll have to design a Dremel powered Tread Wear Machine 😉
Thanks for all the replies on saw blades I broke down and use the E-Bay site . I wasn't looking that hard for these until today the cost was $31.52 most was shipping from the U.S. Got two packs I guess I'll have enough for 20 years
Found the details. Got it off E-Bay under "12 Hobby Scroll Saw Blades 3 inch for Dremel Moto-Shop Craftsman" sold by Zimbyo. Still selling at abt $14. Postage $9 to UK. My machine has the same flexi drive attachment. Nice small light machine that cuts small jobs well. Hope this helps, I was down to one blade!
As the stern needed the most reshaping, decided to tackle it first. Made up a wooden insert to reflect the correct deck stern contour and glued it in between the deck supports. This would give the stern be the correct shape and length. Once that was positioned pulled the hull up tight to the supports. As the stern is approached the sharper profile of the Teakwood requires the hull sides to be pulled firmly inwards and the transom be vertical. Decided this was not going to epoxy and stay in place satisfactorily once the strain was released, so cut a series of vertical slots in the rear hull to allow it relax and squeeze it together. One slot has to be quite deep, otherwise the lower hull will crack as it will not relax sufficiently. Used the Dremel cutting disc for this. The slots need to be quite generous as the the hull has to be pulled in some distance. Once this was all epoxied in place, wrapped “cling film” around the rear of the hull and poured liquid fibreglass resin around the slots and under the insert to bond everything together. Worked this onto all the vertical and horizontal surfaces as it set. The stern is now good and rigid. The attached pictures show the new stern profile and slots. The first pictures are “as is” to illustrate the process. Further work was also needed to true up the bulwarks and disguise the slots. This mutilation may seem a brutal way of getting the hull shape correct, but had tried all kinds of pulling and squeezing of the hull, none of which held in place after the clamps were released. Once the cosmetic aspects of the stern rework were complete, established the correct location for the rudder post and fitted it. The major stern work is now finished.
Try polishing the varnish once it is good and hard. Use a good polishing compound as used on cars and plenty of water don't use an angle grinder they're too fast and will burn the varnish.You might be able to sort out something using a Dremel type tool, but again not too fast, to get into the smaller spaces on deck etc. It is possible to do it by hand but takes longer.Done properly you get a finish like glass. A lot of car painters rub down wet first with very fine paper then do the polishing. Go to a car painters and watch them and ask them to show you what they use.Really educational. You could learn lots. Cheers John .
What to do next? Decided that the hull needed reference points from which dimensions could be established and checked. The most logical place is the peak of the bow as from this most longitudinal and vertical measurements can be established. The dodger on top of the bow interferes with such measurements, decided that as it was to be removed eventually to remove it now. Cut the dodger off with a hacksaw and then filed/sanded the forecastle bulwarks to their correct height. As the stern required several modifications decided it would be easier to implement them if that bulwark was the correct height too. Rather than laike around making relatively small areas the correct height, decided that it would be easier to get all the bulkwalks correct at the same time. Used a Dremel tool with a cutting disc. rather than a hacksaw. This is much easier, but recommend wear a mask to avoid ingesting the copious amounts of dust created. Once the major amount was removed, used a Sureform scraper and a sanding block to bring them to the correct height. As the bulwark heights were getting close to the correct size, checked measurements from the drawing and used a spirit level to make sure that not only are the heights correct they are symmetrical across the hull. This is quite time consuming, but it is important they are correct as otherwise the hull will look twisted. Once the Teakwood hull shape started to develop from the Velarde, it rather looked like a butterfly emerging from a chrysalis! Modifying a hull presents a range of problems that do not follow a logical sequence, unlike making a model from scratch. In parallel with this model am slowly doing one of the S.S. Great Britain. Whilst that is more challenging, the work flows logically from one step to the next.