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Hi Ed you have an even older version than I do, the 27Meg job, I have the 40Meg version and the 'rope' is about 1/8" thick and round! Seems OK. Re tyres: that's why I tongue in cheek suggested a Dremel powered machine to do the job 😉 Cheers Doug 😎
Hi Neil, It's the 'thin' that cuts!😡 You're supposed to use the 'rope' supplied with the boat dampen and twist the end to get it through the holes in the tyres. Then loop de loop 😉 BTW: the tyres seem to me to have an amazing amount of tread left. Most tugs I've seen they are almost bald! Think I'll have to design a Dremel powered Tread Wear Machine 😉
Thanks for all the replies on saw blades I broke down and use the E-Bay site . I wasn't looking that hard for these until today the cost was $31.52 most was shipping from the U.S. Got two packs I guess I'll have enough for 20 years
Found the details. Got it off E-Bay under "12 Hobby Scroll Saw Blades 3 inch for Dremel Moto-Shop Craftsman" sold by Zimbyo. Still selling at abt $14. Postage $9 to UK. My machine has the same flexi drive attachment. Nice small light machine that cuts small jobs well. Hope this helps, I was down to one blade!
As the stern needed the most reshaping, decided to tackle it first. Made up a wooden insert to reflect the correct deck stern contour and glued it in between the deck supports. This would give the stern be the correct shape and length. Once that was positioned pulled the hull up tight to the supports. As the stern is approached the sharper profile of the Teakwood requires the hull sides to be pulled firmly inwards and the transom be vertical. Decided this was not going to epoxy and stay in place satisfactorily once the strain was released, so cut a series of vertical slots in the rear hull to allow it relax and squeeze it together. One slot has to be quite deep, otherwise the lower hull will crack as it will not relax sufficiently. Used the Dremel cutting disc for this. The slots need to be quite generous as the the hull has to be pulled in some distance. Once this was all epoxied in place, wrapped “cling film” around the rear of the hull and poured liquid fibreglass resin around the slots and under the insert to bond everything together. Worked this onto all the vertical and horizontal surfaces as it set. The stern is now good and rigid. The attached pictures show the new stern profile and slots. The first pictures are “as is” to illustrate the process. Further work was also needed to true up the bulwarks and disguise the slots. This mutilation may seem a brutal way of getting the hull shape correct, but had tried all kinds of pulling and squeezing of the hull, none of which held in place after the clamps were released. Once the cosmetic aspects of the stern rework were complete, established the correct location for the rudder post and fitted it. The major stern work is now finished.
Try polishing the varnish once it is good and hard. Use a good polishing compound as used on cars and plenty of water don't use an angle grinder they're too fast and will burn the varnish.You might be able to sort out something using a Dremel type tool, but again not too fast, to get into the smaller spaces on deck etc. It is possible to do it by hand but takes longer.Done properly you get a finish like glass. A lot of car painters rub down wet first with very fine paper then do the polishing. Go to a car painters and watch them and ask them to show you what they use.Really educational. You could learn lots. Cheers John .
What to do next? Decided that the hull needed reference points from which dimensions could be established and checked. The most logical place is the peak of the bow as from this most longitudinal and vertical measurements can be established. The dodger on top of the bow interferes with such measurements, decided that as it was to be removed eventually to remove it now. Cut the dodger off with a hacksaw and then filed/sanded the forecastle bulwarks to their correct height. As the stern required several modifications decided it would be easier to implement them if that bulwark was the correct height too. Rather than laike around making relatively small areas the correct height, decided that it would be easier to get all the bulkwalks correct at the same time. Used a Dremel tool with a cutting disc. rather than a hacksaw. This is much easier, but recommend wear a mask to avoid ingesting the copious amounts of dust created. Once the major amount was removed, used a Sureform scraper and a sanding block to bring them to the correct height. As the bulwark heights were getting close to the correct size, checked measurements from the drawing and used a spirit level to make sure that not only are the heights correct they are symmetrical across the hull. This is quite time consuming, but it is important they are correct as otherwise the hull will look twisted. Once the Teakwood hull shape started to develop from the Velarde, it rather looked like a butterfly emerging from a chrysalis! Modifying a hull presents a range of problems that do not follow a logical sequence, unlike making a model from scratch. In parallel with this model am slowly doing one of the S.S. Great Britain. Whilst that is more challenging, the work flows logically from one step to the next.
The beauty of being on nights is I can do some of the smaller but important things at my desk whilst waiting for war to start! Yep, I’m in the army and a coiled spring ha ha! Anyway, have managed to turn the extra large standard rudder into something that looks like the original on the real life “Solent” using some brass strip, a dremel and a good hot soldering iron. Just needs a final clean up, primer and gloss grey to finish it off. I’ve some brass bushes left over from my model car days which are perfect to act as a spacer from rudder blade to hull tunnel. Now to make the second one!
Standard Saturday Mrs Mac decided I had other things to do before being allowed out to play but I think I've got there, just need to check it's right before gluing up. OK so I lied that I wouldn't be asking more questions on this topic😁😁 The hole has been opened out enough to achieve 3/4" but the photo doesn't really show it. It took some time to achieve it as well more time than I thought, even used my dremel at one point😁. But pmdevlin's tip on using a disc was a great help. The position of the outer tube on the hull needs a slight adjustment but nothing major and still achievable as no glue. I did have a check fit of the motor and came across another issue as there was no way I could achieve alignment of the shaft and motor which was made easier by Doug's universal coupling idea😁. I went for removing the last remaining piece of the old motor mount (should have listened to Dave a year ago) which took about an hour as it was glued in good and proper.😤😤😤😤😤 There is some clearance on the hull from the prop so think I'll be going for a 30mm prop as suggested by Dave as to my surprise mine is 40mm diameter. Hopefully the arrangement is all good and I can use Dave's and Doug's tips on getting it secured. I still need to blank off the water pick up and fit the new rudder tube. Also I think the motor alignment will still be interesting as after removing the last bit of the old mount the motor was interfering with the bulkhead behind it so removed so it. Also will possibly need to take some out of the hull centre piece to achieve a perfect alignment. Hopefully tomorrow will go well as will also fitting the oiler as seen on Robbob's Build Blog.
I think those doublers will need explosives to get them off... I've hit a bit of a roadblock with the big K7, I need to get Donald built up so I can position the steering wheel & dash correctly, the animatronic resin upper torso & arms I bought came with no instructions or info on what servos to use. I got some micro servos & they didn't fit, Dremel out & all fits now but I'm now struggling with connecting the servo arm to the rotating neck. I'll suss it out eventually but I need a rest. I've been doing bits on my 1/12 scale K7 in the background, if all goes well it should be ready for paint in a couple of weeks. As normal I've been waiting for parts to arrive from China, the brushless motor & esc arrived today for the blue rigger, I can make a start on that soon.. I've just finished printing the parts for the cabin for a Springer tug hull I got from Sonar & I've just started printing the first parts of a WW2 landing craft, its 1/16 scale nearly a metre long, I guess I'll be making a tank for it when it's completed. Then there's the Robbe Diabolo, on the instructions it says to use self tapping screws to hold the plastic dual rudders in place. No good to me as I've upgraded to dual aluminium rudders, these buggers need bolts! Trouble is the waterproof electronics box is used as a doubler for the central transom, when it's glued into place there isn't any room to access where the rudder bolts come through the doublers, ohhh the joy of problem solving.... So I'm keeping busy but my butter is spread a bit too thin. Cheers Wayne
Hi Wayne You must be a rich man if you are mixing that much. Unlike other resins Stabilit attaches its-self into the surfaces being joined so any round the edges is un-necessary and should be wiped away with a wet rag. Once fully set it can be machines or Dremeled away. Doug is so right about a correctly made joint and I do hope you never ever need to remove the doublers. Dave
Just spent a couple of hours today cleaning up the waterjet & marking up the rear section of the Crackerbox hull where it will eventually fit, it's too big for this hull but it's going in regardless. I'm flying to Spain in the morning so I'll be suffering Dremel withdrawal symptoms until I get back😳 Cheers Wayne
Been busy printing some 1/4 scale hands & im on with the animatronics for Donald. The torso I bought but the instructions it came with were dire, the micro servos I bought didn't fit so I'm having to get busy with the Dremel, hopefully I'll have him moving this week.. Cheers Wayne