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Many of my models are models of models - the Sea Princess, for instance, is a half-sized Sea Queen. In some cases EeZeBilt boats are actually made larger than their originals - so a double-sized Curlew or Triton is a 2:1 scale model of a model rather than a 1:2. Very recursive...
1 - I concur with figtree7nts. You don't want a long length of unsupported floppy tube transmitting power. You will see that my illustrations show the unsupported tube to be very short. 2 - You also want thick tube to transmit power. if you have thin 2-3mm tube that will easily kink. I make my own connectors at the ends of each shaft to bring the internal tube diameter up to about 6-8mm. 3 - If you want to try a quick fix for what you have, I would suggest putting a small piece of wood or plastic inside the unsupported section of your tube, which will stop it collapsing when it is twisted. This may work if the torque is not high. And it's a quick, cheap thing to try. 4 - if you want to try making your own, you could get something like this - check the correct shaft size - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brass-Hexagon-Flexible-Coupling-C... or this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Coupling-Inserts-for-RC-Models-Va... and then buy a length of something like this - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1M-Food-Grade-Clear-Translucent-S... checking the diameters that you need, of course... Here is a similar Eezebilt to your craft. It's the OSA Missile boat. You can see that the unsupported length of silicone is short, and this boat at 32 inches takes quite a lot of power...
I am not sure that you mean 'latex'. The most usual soft tubes are silicone rubber. Not neoprene, as it is usually too stiff. There are all sorts of universal joints available. Here are some metal ones from Ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5x-RC-Model-Boat-Robot-Universal-... These are surely too strong for small boats, however. The Eezebilt range are typically 30-50cm long and I use silicone rubber joints on brushless motors there quite satisfactorily. You just need to be sure that the tube wall thickness is sufficient - typically 3-4mm. Here is a picture of the Eezebilt PT Boat (50 cm long) motor connector, with a picture of it running. You will see that it can go at a reasonable speed. See http://www. style='background-color:yellow;'>eezebilt.tk/PTBoat.html
Compartmentalisation is easy too - here is a 40" box with a separate section for the radio and a lift-out drawer for the masts, etc... Just pop-rivet a few off-cuts in. This is an EezeBilt OSA Missile boat.
Hi! Marky, I have just recovering from a stroke Andi have a gaff rigged cutter half done but as it was my first time building a sail boat I was stuck when it came to the sail set up then the stroke I can't get back to it so I would wonder if you could possibly negotiate another set for the eezebilt RAF tender cut in plywood. I would be most willingly pay for it no problem, Please don't fret if its not possible I will understand Laters then Mick
Am building the EEZEBILT RAF tender the hints and tips suggest a 280 or 300 brushed motor but on other posts in the forums brushless motors are mentioned ,both my previous boats have been static so this is a steep learning curve for me ,Q1 brushed or brushless ?.Q2 what size ? Q3 would it be easier to buy a RC set up complete rather than individual bits and bobs ?.Q4 will defiantly follow in the near future . Any help much appreciated 👍 Cheers Marky