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Hi John, you might now be scratching your head, and wishing you have not asked the original question! This seems to be a common issue, as the boating community is light years behind the other disciplines, rc cars, planes helis and so on, its probably due to the facts general boating doesnt really need the later generation technology, the average boater age is probably higher than the other disciplines so budgeting might be an issue, and there is less younger blood in the clubs to explain the lipo/brushless etc. We see posts with a load of numbers, specs, warnings etc, its enough to put people off. Im a big fan of brushless/lipo/ 2.4 etc, been doing it for years, its cheaper and more efficient (once you have the basics) but for the average guy, who just wants to spend an easy afternoon at the local lake gently cruising around, brushed motors, nimhs batteries, even lead acid, will do the job👍 Your 4 foot ply boat, once painted, with fittings, will be heavy, I know, I own one. Those 600 motors are not big enough, they are better suited to the smaller 3 foot boat, then, pushing them with a 6v lead acid, just cant do it. The battery will be screaming HELP!! I started 15 years back exactly the same, 600 motor, 6v battery, massive 50mm prop, I knew no better and took advise from people who didnt know what they were talking about😡, remember those gold hi tech speed controllers!! I had one, it melted, literally melted on the first use😭 Get 700 size motors, they will need to be water cooled, as mentioned by jarvo, the nominal voltage or below isnt good enough, power them at the max voltage. Brushed means you can use one apropriate esc, look out for electronize (are they still in existance?) or mtroniks, preferably use nimhs batteries over lead acid with a high mah. If after all this you want to venture into lipos and brushless motors, go to a club, spot a boat that is similar in size to yours, if you like the performance talk to the owner and gain experience and knowledge that way, it will save money, lost time and a lot of disappointment, I have been there so feel your pain. I say I would never go back to brushed motors and none lipo batteries, but I always want silly speed, not runtime, after 15 minutes Ive had enough and am bored. Rambling over! My 4 foot boat is twin brushless and uses 4 lipo 5000mah cells per motor, it will do 25mph for 15 mins, then I go home😁 Message is, you can get a "reasonable" performance from brushed motors, with the correct batteries, right props, but weight is the enemy. Looks lie you are at Biddulph, get onto Dave M a moderator on here, and arrange to go over to see the crewe and district boys on one of their sailing days, take your boat with you, they will help👍
Hi Dave, I’ve gone for the single electronize esc simply because the reviewer who did a refurb in septembers model boats mag and he seem to find it fine? I’ve modified the rudders in the hope that she will turn ok. If after testing I find it does have difficulty turning, I shall look at swapping the current esc for a pair. Thank you for your comments, kind regards sy
Hi Doug...it's this one: and no that little issue is still ongoing...have changed my Tx/Rx/ESC to Turnigy....the Mtroniks ESC's I was using were 'compromised' regarding the set-up...I now have a programmable card to set up my ESC's - The Dauntless has been converted to a Police launch, it's a twin screw using two Electronize ESC's.....just needs a Tx/Rx and batteries, possibly looking at lead acid x2
Hi Doug I well remember these chokes and that capacitor. I do believe modern thinking is to wrap the low current wires to the ESC round a circular choke, there are never any chokes in the supplied ESCs motor leads. I do recall advice on one of the forums regarding not putting any inductance in the motor leads, not sure if it was Electronize or Mtronic who gave the advice. They both adopted high frequency pulses for control a few years ago and there was lots of discussion as people upgraded their old ESC to a new one. Chokes were quite common in the past but the technology was vastly different to that used by modern ESCs. Are you sure the interference is from the motor? I had a very similar symptom with a faulty servo, very similar to that Eric is using. I have asked him to unplug the servo and see if the problem goes away. So far I have not had a reply so can only guess what might be the problem. Cheers Dave
The esc stuff is all working now. So i have just hooked up a LM2577 Voltage Booster input 3.5 - 30V, output up to 30V adjustable The idea is to have 24 volts battery input and the output stays at 12 volts. Having just said that it has come from action electronics and does not work .....Again. So I will have to stick with 12 volts .... so far as electronize esc,s go there heavy duty and also used so I have been told on the robots used in robot wars..
I use these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122489724489?ul_noapp=true in my S-Boot and PT boat both driving 3x motors ie MFA 850's and Graupner 600's those Blue or pink ones I had trouble with as with Not electronize but the other ones.They are car ones and you could probably get similar ones in the UK . They may be chinese amps but they handle 40amps plus no bother
Hi Sonar, if you are running 2 motors, make sure you have good capacity in hand, these are powerful motors and need a good ESC to handle them, i used one with a chinese "50amp" esc and it produced magic smoke within a few minutes, changed to an Electronize and its run for 2 years now Mark
Hi Sonar I have been building electronics for many years as a hobby so am speaking from experience. The circuits you mention are for Forward only so may not suit if you require reverse. As it happens I am repairing an Electronize VR ESC and there are two large Schottky diodes protecting the MOSFET. The motors seem to be designed for industrial use and are very similar to car heater fan motors which I have used in my model tugs and damaged the MOSFETs in the ESC. Not all motors have multiple poles, which appear to be the main culprits. If you have a problem at least you can go back to the supplier and ask for your money back. I am sure Engel is perfectly legitimate and provides a good and efficient service and I agree that PayPay is a secure payment method. However the site connection is insecure and any personal or financial details you provide on line to the website be it for card or PayPal will be visible to anyone to intercept. The https in their address is incorrect and could well lead you to believe the connection was secure. I think Doug has identified the motor manufacturer and the motors may be end of line stock being sold by Engel. It certainly looks an impressive motor. Dave
Hi Specs say 180Watt so 15amp max at 12v. I suspect the actual stall current is somewhat higher - a wattmeter connected between the battery and motor whilst briefly stalling the motor with a wooden clothes peg should give an indication. I do mean momentary unless you want to cook the motor or wires! The Electronize will work up to 24 volts which would halve the current and may be a better solution. I was going to look on the site and see if they suggest an ESC but my McAfee warned me off- don't know why. This is a commercial motor and from its pic I suspect high current. It's also possible that it is multipole and may be generating lots of back emf which may need some fast Schottky diodes adding to the ESCs to protect the MOSFETS. I would check with the tech guys at the ESC suppliers to see if they recommend their product for this motor. Dave