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>> Home > Tags > fast patrol boat

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Veron Vosper F.P.B. 52" by kevinsharpe Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi John. Interested to know what kind of offers you have had. Boaty, yes Veron did an RTTL Rescue Target Towing Launch, they featured in the black and white film ' The sea shall not have them'. This though is their fast patrol boat. I believe it's called a 'Trinity class patrol boat and some were supplied to the Trinidad and Tobago navy. You will sometimes see the model bares the name Coureland Bay'. I have seen photos on this website of her. They were built by Vosper Thornycroft in Portsmouth. If I was building her I would put two meaty brushless motors n her which should bring a sprite lay planing performance. I have fitted two Graupner 900s in mine, which give her an excellent turn of speed. These are brushed motors but are not available any more. The hull space is vast so easily accommodates batteries with space for sound system working radar etc. Regards Kevin

Veron Vosper F.P.B. 52" by boaty Admiral   Posted: 2 months ago
Is this an ASRL as Veron did a version approximately 28 inches in length and made out of balsa and ply. I do recall that they manufactured a bigger boat but do not know if it was an ASRL or Fast Patrol Boat. Though from what you describe it sounds like the latter. Boaty😊

Guestbook Post by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi All. Many may already recognise the 'nutter from Munich' 😁 but I just wanted to say- I first stumbled across this site and enrolled here in 2014 but was still in harness and trundling around the world working with various navies and shipyards on all sorts of naval ships from small Fast Patrol Boats through subs, Corvettes and Frigates up to LPDs, Heli and Escort Carriers. So I didn't have much time for model building (sounds better than 'Modelling' somehow 😁😲) or contributions to the site, but I did try to keep up to date with advances, as I always did in my profession - Naval COMMS systems - and dipped in and out of this site without getting involved. Since I retired last year I have become an active member and have also dipped into, and registered with some, other Model Boat forums in various countries. But in all of them I have never found such an international, friendly and knowledgable bunch as on this site. Or such a well organised site where it is 'relatively' easy to find the info you need, or to just ask and get informed answers pronto. Sure there is room for improvement in some areas but "Tempus fugit" and things move on - so is it also on this site. I understand that a facelift and changes are afoot😉 whatever the outcome I'm sure you won't find a better web site for informed (bin there done that!) info on model boat / ship building as well as research on the original vessels this side of the asteroid belt! Welcome aboard and Happy Building and Sailing, All the best, cheers, Doug 😎

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by Lyle Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
I suggest you go to one of my old reports on my 48 inch Crash boat by Lyle G. The issue is most likely t5hat asn it is a MODEL it needs some extra support in full size water . A model thus NEEDS the advantage of planing strakes at the vertical hull and lower hull joint as it is a "Hard Chine design " and you may need to widen with an extra strake WIDTH though it can be thinned in its vertical configuration as it is blend into the forward hull skin. The wider chine is the secret of the MGB's Torpedo Boats the Elco's and the Higgins and the BPBoat design . Though I live in the colony of Oz I have the British Power boat 41 foot 6 inch model at 48 inches , the Vosper Fast patrol boat , the Range Safety Launch , The BPB co Whaleback at 36 inches and the Black Maurader and even the Sea Queen and ALL I/Combustion powered and all over 15 to 20 years young and ALL as well as the Keilcraft 48 inch Cras Boat all all all have this trick and all get up on the plane as the "Brave class" with its Proteus engineer was still a planing Hard Chine hull and as such it is the hull chine strakes that are so essential to the design originated by was it Georga Selman ? and Hubert Scott Payne ?. Oldies are goodies and the masters of old need to be never forgotten for their skills. Regards Lyle and best construction wishes for modifications.

lastest progress by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
My pleasure TJ, get well soon👍 But as an ex Pat living in Germany for 30 odd years and having worked on several types of Fast Patrol Boats / Fast Attack Craft your spelling of Schnellboot is still making my hair stand on end! 🤔 BTW: DON'T cut the switch wires on the ESCs or you won't be able to turn them on! Cut the red wires in the 3 wire cables from the ESCs to the RX. Cheers, Doug 😎 BTW 2: boat looks good, nice work👍 I have a couple of 1/72 kits for E-Boat / S-Boot, hope mine turns out as well as yours! 😉

46Firefloat Mk2 paint by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi Astromorg, Hmm! Your assessment throws up some interesting questions! 1 If the 'teardrop' is a DF antenna what frequency band was it intended to detect? It's way too small to contain the multiple antenna elements necessary to detect, and determine the angle of incidence, of any frequency in common use at that time. I've also never seen a microwave waveguide that shape. If DF I would expect a rotating loop antenna in that era. 2 It's my conviction that the tear drop on the Vickers Wellington is a streamlined VHF antenna. Or just possibly a radar detector much later in the 'grand ruckus'. 3 Why would a Fireboat need a DF set anyway? 4 Some photos clearly show a forward facing lens (white disc) in the teardrop. 5 Such boats when tied up to a mooring buoy instead of the dock would require a 360° visible light. Hence mast-top is the favourite mounting place. 6 Visible angle is primarily a question of the lamp and lens construction and not necessarily the mounting position. 7 A stern light providing the 'fill in all round' is a contradiction of the purpose of running lights which are so constructed and mounted as to help the observer to determine which way the vessel is moving. Forward and aft lights visible 180°? red and green 90°. Which combination you can see helps indicate which way the vessel is moving; towards or away from you. Conversely the single anchor light should be visible from any angle. It can be yellow to distinguish it from a running light. Current regulations also recommend the use of deck lights while at anchor. 8 I agree re position halfway up the mast for the forward running light, BUT, as the masts on these vessels were often folded down the permanently fixed forward running light on the cabin roof would make sense. But then, that's only my opinion! And what do I know?😲 I only worked in communication engineering for 45 years, the last 32 of 'em in Integrated Naval Communication Systems, on all types of vessels from Fast Patrol Boats through FACs, OPVs, corvettes, frigates, conventional subs and up to Escort Aircraft Carrier. Cheers, Doug 😎

what have I got? by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Bryan, that appears to be a Fast Patrol Boat. I don't know that it was a kit one, although Aerokits did one, but it looks to be a very nicely done model. You certainly can't get those batteries any more, Ever ready being long dead as a company, but please keep them. They are more museum pieces than the boat! And that motor is something interesting. If you want to replace it with some modern rubbish, I'd be interested in buying it from you for my "Maverick's collection of Unfeasable Motors". I would be tempted to leave the finish as it is as that is so typical of the period (late 50s), but rarely seen any more. It's a very nice boat and deserves to be kept in period. These boats for real, were not that fast, despite being called High Speed Launches, so you don't need some screaming brushless in it. A 400 brushed would be sufficient. Some suitable decals on the hull sides would finish it off nicely. You could paint those side windows dark gloss grey to represent glass from a distance. Cheers, Martin

H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
Evenin' Rowen, So far so good, nice job👍 Let me go through your comments one by one😉 1) "Moved the battery towards the stern and, at speed, the forefoot lifts slightly clear of the water. The plane is now almost flat. The battery is not well positioned when near the bow." Battery in the bow is almost always bad news🤔 too much weight forward of the CoG or natural balance point when planing. 2) "The 2S battery used was a 4000mAh 30C; suspect this battery does not have the capacity to operate the model. Every motor will run up smoothly until a second one is operated. The first motor then “stutters” and a fuse might blow, this could be indicative of a power surge. Any comments from the electronic experts among the group would be appreciated." First the battery: you may be right. Especially with 3 x4500 kV motors Since you are using 3 ESCs how about feeding each one from a slightly smaller (lower weight) battery? Precondition of course is that all three are equally charged to the same voltage and capacity AND have the same (or very very similar) internal resistance! Complicates the issue of course and motors with a lower kV rating and one power source may well be the better solution😉 Second the 'stutter': How and when did you switch in the second motor? If the first was still at 'Full Ahead', i.e. 'Pedal to the metal!, I might expect the battery voltage to dip and then recover with the sudden additional load and a sharp rise in total current drawn. But no particular excuse for a sudden current rise in the first motor ! Where was the fuse that blew? I suspect in the primary supply lead from the single battery🤓 since with brushless motors you can't fit individual fuse in their supply leads like you can with a brushed motor. BUT you can to the ESCs feeding them!!! You can't get a power surge from a battery, not like a surge on the mains network due to lightning etc! But you can get a voltage dip and recovery if you suddenly present it with an additional load😲 3) "The 3S battery was 10,500mAh and 40C; with this battery all three motors can be run at full speed together and fuses do not blow. It was also very heavy at 1700g, holding the model down." All run up together to full speed or 'switched in' as described above? There's a big difference between a gradual increasing of load on a power source and a sudden step increase! 4) "The motors are 4500 kV. On refection, think a slower motor around, perhaps 2000 kV would have been a better choice." I did think at the outset that 3 x 4500kV was perhaps a little ambitious😲 2000 - 2500 sounds much better, and more controllable👍 Then you could also get good performance results with a single battery of capacity lower and weight 👍 The function of the third (centre) motor for 'action speed' would also be more pronounced👍 5) "Would concur with comments by others that a simple single or two bladed propeller layout for this model is probably best - that is unless you want to capture the true scale layout. The centre propeller seems to have little effect on overall performance, (see above re 4500kV motors- Doug😉) although it will power the model quite nicely when operating by itself. Have had several suggestions about how best to use the centre propeller. Will think about them and decide later how to do this when I start to finish the model." As a 'Scale Purist' (as far as my skills and tools allow!) personally I would frown on the use of 2 blade props, much less only a single prop. Do that in a fictitious power boat if you will, but for 'Brave Borderer' ? 😡 Do her justice please😉 Many three screw (😲) boats (including the full size originals of this era) only used the third motor for additional manoeuvring speed in action situations. My personal experience of FACs (Fast Attack Craft) and FPBs (Fast Patrol Boats) over the last three decades shows me that the three screw configuration has been largely dropped, especially since the introduction of much more powerful engines such as improved diesels and gas turbines. Many use a combination of diesel, for cruising, and gas turbine for 'action speed', so called CODAG, COmbined Diesel And Gas turbine. 6) "The 2 blade Hi – speed propellers both increased performance and current draw. The model is more than fast enough with the original scale layout." As I believe the 2 blade props were of larger diameter (and perhaps also of larger pitch) than the 3 bladers the higher current draw is a logical conclusion! Stick with the scale config! 👍👍👍 7) "Will purchase a lighter, 3 S battery as that seems the best choice for performance and weight." 👍 but don't overdo it to the other extreme by reducing weight and therefore capacity too much😲 You want a decent sailing time don't you? 8) "Testing using the bare hull with a minimum of detail worked well. For a models with a complex power train, this is a good approach as access to the internals can be gained easily. Nothing worse that finishing a boat carefully just to find the performance disappointing. Then having to to rip it apart to make major modifications or adjustments!" Heartily agree 👍👍👍 Bon chance mon ami😊

advise required by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
Hi TJ, we've been here before! See your previous query and our answers in - https://model-boats.com/forum/general-resources/40352?t=1527... I have some experience with the TGY-i6 set recommended there and a very good 100% English manual (no bl..dy Chenglish!) so can help with the setup if you need it. See attached. This is the German branded version I bought here in Munich where I live. Apart from the German brand name 'Reely' it is identical to the TGY and FlySky versions. If you need any help setting it up PM me. I think the Planet stuff and similar may disappoint you cos the display does not tell you so much about what's going on as the TGY sets do. I have set mine up for a variety of boats / ships including my Sea Scout cabin cruiser, an H class 1936 RN destroyer and a 1936 German U-Boat type IIA. No problems 😉 Whatever you do have fun with it and welcome to the 'Nutters Community' 😉 Cheers, Doug 😎 BTW: As an Ex Pat who has lived here (Munich) for over 30 years and has worked on several versions of Fast Patrol Boats all over the world, including Lürssen Werft types, please note that the boat was called a 'Schnellboot' = Fast boat! No more😉

H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 months ago
Thinking of a future project and decided upon another launch type vessel. My earlier Daman 4207 project gave an interesting model with good performance. The Brave class of FPBs (Fast Patrol Boats) caught my attention. Can remember the incredible performance they offered when entering service. Only two of the class were used by the RN, although variants were used by other navies. Have decided to use proprietary Glass fibre hulls in future as they probably cost little more than building from scratch using wood and resin. They give a robust and watertight hull, but one which still requires thought to complete properly. There are several companies that offer a “Perkasa” hull, a Brave class derivative with an almost identical hull. From previous experience have decided to limit my models to 40” long, larger vessels become difficult to transport and handle. After much research considered the hull offered by MTB Hulls in Gibraltar met my requirements best. The inquiry to MTBHulls was well handled; the quotation acceptable, so placed an order. Was pleasantly surprised at the shipping costs. From the UK these often approach the cost of the hull, but from Gibraltar they are much more reasonable. Delivery only took 7 days.

Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat by Biggles Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 9 months ago
I have an Aerokits Fast Patrol Boat, what scale 20mm deck gun did you buy is it 1/24? Also I was thinking of powering mine with a Graupner 700BB Turbo motor and Nicad battery packs or Lipo batteries. My hull doesn't have spray rails, should I fit some? Sorry for all the questions but I'm returning to powered model boats after a long absence! Thank you for any help received.

Command Boat 90 by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 months ago
I tried one of these but couldn't get it to reverse the boat. Possibly not got the correct set up for the jet nozzle. It pushed a 30 inch fiber glass fast patrol boat very well, might try to sort outlet to give better control. You've raised my interest again thanks, Colin.

Command Boat 90 by CB90 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 months ago
Scratch built at 12th scale from pictures and profiles of the internet. The boat was originally built in Sweden a class of fast military assault craft originally developed for the Swedish Navy by Dockstavarvet Speed: 40 knots (74 km/h) Draught: 0.8 m (2 ft 7 in) Length: 15.9 m (52 ft) Overall; 14.9 (48') Complement: 3 (two officers and one engineer); Up to 21 amphibious troops with full equipment Armament: 3 × Browning M2HB machine guns; 1 × Mk 19 grenade launcher; 4 naval mines or 6 depth charges . The Model I was attracted to this boat due to its great performance and maneuverability, this was mainly due to the use of twin water jets as the main propulsion, this is a trade off with efficiency. So my start point was to collect as much information as possible about the boat this involved collecting pictures and profiles of the craft from various sources. http://www.dockstavarvet.se/products/combat-and-patrol-boats... Eventually I found some plans of sort :- http://laurell.today/boats/combat/plans.html My Dad was a boat builder in the days of wooden yachts, and had showed me how to make plans and frames from a line drawing. I went about this first by creating a prototype about 24 in long out of light ply. I then created full size plans of the model to be made. Pictures of small prototype finally painted plain green. The Main model Used my computer to print out the frames onto paper, cut them out and used them as templates for the ply ribs. The construction was simple chine style, with 1.5 mm ply. I tried to build jet drives but failed to produce a effective unit. So reverted to propshafts which worked out well with better control and the boat can spin on it own axis by putting one engine in reverse the other in forward and adjusting the twin rudders. That it for now, hope it was of some interest

Perkasa Class by CB90 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 months ago
[Score: 8/10] 36"/3600g Perkasa Class Capable of 10mph and a runtime of 25mins Triple Propellors (3 Blade 35mm) Direct Drive to a 2x 600 + 1x 700 type (3 Blade) Powered by NiCad (7.2v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through China (25Amps) ESC - Comments: A Malaysian Fast Patrol Boat Perkasa produced by Vosper in1966,she has 3 gas turbines engines and a speed of 54 knots, and diesels for cruising. The model was built in the 1980s but has only recently been fully powered up for planning speed, handle choppy water very well, port and starboard motors are 2x Graupner 600 7.2v and centre motor is a 700 type motor, 3 shafts run 3x 35mm propellers and it has two rudders, the guns are remote controlled (Please note the stern/rear gun is not accurate and is just a copy of the forward gun Bofors 40mm and not the 20mm Oerlikon. Search lights, radar, running lights all work the 3xESCs are a cheap China ones that do the job but need to go to neutral before going in reverse, just use self centring joy sticks on the transmitter.

Fast Patrol Boat by BOATSHED Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 months ago
It's nice and fast but doesn't seem to want to turn very well. What is the rudder like is it too big and also how much leading edge has the rudder got. I used to have this sort of trouble and went for a slightly smaller rudder and cut away the leading edge and it solved my problems.