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>> Home > Tags > glazing

glazing
glazing
Aeronaut Pilot Boat by cormorant Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Peter It seems so long ago and I can't remember exactly how I did it. However, I used canopy glue (which dries clear) to stick the glazing to the window opening as centrally as I could. Any gaps were successfully covered by the metal trim, which I fitted before the canopy glue dried so I could reposition the glazing if required. Sorry I can't be any more specific but the end result was 'gapless'. Steve

Aeronaut Pilot Boat by MouldBuilder Admiral   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Steve. In have been reading this thread with great interest as I am currently making this Pilot Boat kit. I am about 70% there but have hit a snag that I have no answer for and hoped you could help. I am trying to fit the glazing but have found it to be fairly loose in the holes. Can you advise as to how you glued yours in place without sticking the protective tape in place and how it stays there due to the gaps around. When did you fit the metal trims. Thanks.😊 Peter.

36" Thames River Police Launch by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
After the successful build of the ‘Vintage Model Works’ RAF Crash Rescue Tender I was asked by Mike Cummings of VMW if I would undertake to build a prototype of their new model with the aim of checking the construction method and the assembly instructions for accuracy before the kit is put into production. The model is a ‘Thames River Police Launch’ and is based on the original design by Phil Smith for the Veron company, this was a very popular model kit in the late 50’s and 60’s and sold for the princely sum of 43 shillings and tuppence, approximately £2.15 in today’s money but an equivalent cost of £48.50 in 1960. This design has been updated to accommodate electric propulsion and radio control by Colin Smith, the son of the original designer and it has been re-scaled to be 36” in length where the original was 24” which gives much more scope for detailing and provides more ‘hiding room’ for the drive, control systems and all the associated wiring. The kit produced by VMW uses the same construction techniques as the original and the materials are a combination of balsa and plywood both of which a laser and CNC cut for precision. The ply and balsa materials supplied are of very high quality as one would expect from VMW and all the stripwood for the chines, rubbing strakes and deck detailing is included, even the dowel required for the mast is in the box, very comprehensive! The kit also includes white metal fittings such as the fairleads and stanchions, and the searchlight and horns. The glazing for the windows comes in the kit too. The instruction sheet supplied is in need of revision as it is largely taken directly from the original as written by Phil Smith and some of the terminology needs updating, for instance the ply bottom and side skins are referred to as ‘strakes’ but I understand that a re-write of the instructions is in hand along with an updated plan showing the best positioning for the motor, prop-shaft, battery, ESC, receiver, rudder and servo. During construction I have added a few additional pieces of ply or balsa as reinforcement or supports and substituted some balsa parts for ply where I thought a stronger material would be better. I also added some hatches to give access to the wiring at the bow and the rudder & servo at the stern but largely I have not gone ‘off plan’ to any extent. The pictures show the model in it’s present state (Nov 2018) and is ready for painting and finishing.

Cabin roof hatches by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Boatshed, I have used cascamite on some of the older boat restorations, but they are mainly for display boats, but it's rather expensive for most modelling jobs, so now tend to stick to using epoxy and the best one in my humble opinion is from the poundland shop, it dries quite quickly and crystal clear, I've even replaced port holes glazing with it. (it features Tommy Walsh on the package.) Comes in a syringe, so really easy to use. Cheers Colin.

PS Waverley by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
real gentleman who started selling timbers for modelmakers, but had to stop that as he got a sensitivity to the dust of woods, but he also had a range of amazingly good stuff for amazingly low prices, including various stanchions. I bought all the remaining portholes from him because I hate glazing portholes! I have tiny working compasses, rigging scissors, tiny woodscrews, rigging cord, bottle screws, all sorts from him and all cost me very little. Alas, health issues have caused him to cease trading and he has been flogging of his stock on ebay. A great loss. Martin

Styrene Allergy? by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Styrene fumes? You'll only get fumes if you heat it. My chum works a vac-former to make model car glazing and he thoroughly washes every sheet of PVC before forming it. Stops micro-bubbles forming. I use blue nitriles when epoxying. I always found latex melted on contact with most of the things I used, like enamel paint, Marineflex, etc. Nitriles stay put. Martin

Eppleton Hall by Ishmael Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 4 months ago
[Score: 10/10] 39" Eppleton Hall Capable of 3mph and a runtime of 60mins Geared to a 540 MFA 919D Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 2Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through VIPER Marine 25 ESC - Comments: I am in the process of building a 32nd scale model of the paddle tug "Eppleton Hall" from scratch, for the most part. The hull is complete now and ready for fiberglass. Stay tuned for progress updates... The hull has been fiberglassed with 2 oz. glass cloth, ZAP Z-POXY resin and Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty to fill in dings and low spots. It has been sanded many times with different grits of sandpaper, so now I have one final thin coat of Z-POXY resin to finish it. I also built a boat stand out of cedar for it.

nearing completion! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
So, I have managed to crack on quite a bit this week. Ive done a heap at work on nights this week, followed by near enough a whole weekend of no interuptions as the "long haired Segeant Major" has been at her parents for the weekend!😁 it took a couple of days to build the coxswains console out of balsa and alot of fettling with plastitube and sheet, very please with the outcome. its not 100% scale acurate as is the rest of the model, but close enough to give a good representation of the wheelhouse contents. Just the Coxswain and seat to build and paint for a completed wheelhouse. The rest of the weekend has seen the cockpit just about finished, painted and laquered. So, to complete the model the following items need to be built, painted and fitted. Radar mount and radar, instrument dials, cockpit glazing, antenna mast and rigging, towing bitt, rear cockpit railing and winch, hull grab ropes, anchor, and finally about 2 kilos of lead ballast to get her sitting right on the water. I reckon another week to 10 days for a completed model!

Making and Fitting tinted windows by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
This was actually done back in April, somehow it ended up in another thread and I forgot to put it here!🤓 After spraying the cabin white I used the windows 'oles to mark templates for the windows. Which I then transferred to 3mm tinted perspex / acrylglass and cut out on the table scroll saw. Despite careful marking and cutting still had to fiddle about with filing to get 'em to fit right 😡 Pics 1 to 3 show fitted windows still with protective film. Pics 4 to 6 film removed but still to be polished. 7th pic; Les pièces, 8th pic; ze glue 😉 I chose 3mm 'glass' a) to match the 3mm ply of the cabin walls - makes it easier to get a flush fit, b) could get it in green tint 😊 Think there was also grey and red !!!! Red for a 'Fun' Boat perhaps 😲 Glue used; Deluxe Materials Canopy Glue; "Thick, flexible glue. High grip. Dries clear. Fills gaps." Here endeth the advert😉 Last pic shows final result after polishing. Maybe sometime, when I haven't got more interesting things to solve and build, I'll make some alu or mahogany frames! 😉 Happy glazing folks😁 Cheers, Doug 😎

Spektrum, new, useless... by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Westie if you want more "OH"s I think my namesake Mantua Models have some. Re unglazed ones if you get a look at them before you buy there should be a little ridge inside that the "GLASS" sits on. If you cut your glazing material carefully--- A sharp tube is best to cut it with. A drop of canopy glue secures it well. Re insurance etc. I was hit behind the eye on the temple by a model weighing less than half a pound. A low speed bipe at that. It hit at an angle from behind & I was almost knocked out by it. A strong breeze took it off course. Anything bigger could have killed me I think. Quite a few planes went adrift that day with the wind strength what it was. 15 -18 MPH I think it was. No harm was done luckily Therefore I would have insurance from one source or other. Bring back MAP👍

Spektrum, new, useless... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Yep, he done good, did the Naval man in Munchen. I'm in his debt and if I use the TX to fly I promise I'll insure myself, but I ain't joinin' a club unless the local one is as cheap as someone recently suggested. And the only decal on my wings will be the SMAE, if I have to hand paint it! Now...back to boats. Tis my birthday and my dear bride bought me a set of the old Yeoman white metal fittings for my Crash Tender, so now the kids have departed I will have a wee clean up of them. Then, a Chicken Achar from the new Indian restaurant. A bonus is that she also bought me a pack of 20 beautifully made turned brass portholes, glazed, that I've just realised will fit the Crash Tender wheelhouse. Result...I HATE glazing portholes. I did 9 on a scratchbuilt canal boat and it drove me nuts. 4 down, 16 to put back in storage, the last of Modelling Timbers' stock of them and the manufacturer no longer does em. Martin

Windows, stoopid question. by Jimbo Petty Officer   Posted: 7 months ago
Well back to the windeys,thanks for the info on windey fitting,been wondering meself how best to glaze em.now I iknow. Never tried it but my mate says he makes his frames from>> model railway lines the flexy type>> glued round the glazing and poped in the hole,anyone else done it this way ? Jim

Windows, stoopid question. by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
Very neat job, Doug. On the front windows of the Crash Tender the material is 1/16th Perspex and I've done pretty much what you have, mark, saw and file to fit, but of course the missing window frames have to be made up, so I did them in 1mm styrene, of which I have a huge stock, thanks to the generosity of Ivan at IP Engineering when he was starting the Vintage Model Boat Company and I was designing kits for him. What I've then done is glue the glazing to the frame material and will have to hand paint the frames with the same paint as the superstructure. Not ideal, but I can't see any other way. At least the unit just pops into the hole. On the 3mm ply cabin windows I will have to do what you have when I can find some 3mm Perspex. I have some somewhere. There are no visible frames on those, contrary to what the fittings companies might say, only gutters over the tops which I can do with brass wire. Thanks for the confirmation of DON'T DO IT! Cheers, Martin

Windows, stoopid question. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
Evenink Martin, On ABSOLUTE NO ACCOUNT fit windows before prepping and painting 😡 I did all the painting and lacquering first (see 'Sea Scout' Build Blog). Then used the windows 'oles to mark templates for the windows. Which I then transferred to 3mm tinted perspex / acrylglass and cut out on the table scroll saw. Also answers your second question, only mine were green tinted not grey. Despite careful marking and cutting still had to fiddle about with filing to get 'em to fit right 😡 Pics 1 to 3 show fitted windows still with protective film. Pics 4 to 6 film removed but still to be polished. 7th pic; Les pièces, 8th pic; ze glue 😉 I chose 3mm 'glass' a) to match the 3mm ply of the cabin walls - makes it easier to get a flush fit, b) could get it in green tint 😊 Think there was also grey and red !!!! Red for a 'Fun' Boat perhaps 😲 Glue used; Deluxe Materials Canopy Glue; "Thick, flexible glue. High grip. Dries clear. Fills gaps." Here endeth the advert😉 Last pic shows final result after polishing. Maybe sometime, when I haven't got more interesting things to solve and build, I'll make some alu or mahogany frames! 😉 Happy glazing 😁 Cheers, Doug 😎

Cabin windows again by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 months ago
Interesting solution ! What you are actually describing is otherwise known as 'secondary double glazing'...😜 Keep up the great work. Robbob.