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>> Home > Tags > glue

glue
glue
Norfolk Wherry Fans by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 hours ago
If it's a Dutch barge, finish it as one. I reckon the large handkerchief idea would do, Or piece of shirting fabric. You can glue the edges to look like seams. Glue a piece of thin rigging cord in as a bolt rope. Martin

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 18 hours ago
Doug: I was thinking along the same vein for the wiring in the mast; a common “buss” for the LED grounds. Sure would make the installation a bit easier. I like your socket idea a lot. I was considering a wiring conduit running up the space between the rear windows in the Pilot House & up into the mast, which would be glued to its mounting bracket on the roof. But it would be great to build the mast as a plug-in unit that could be removed for transit. You da man!

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 hours ago
Agree Pete, But then telephone wires come as twisted pairs (to minimise induced interference) which gives them additional strength (and bulk🤔). Your wiring looks to me to be about 24 gauge. I also agree with space in the mast, had also pondered that while looking at my Southampton. Came to the conclusion that I would use the tiny wrapping wire (as U lot call it😉) down the mast and into a socket permanently glued under the cabin. Then use flexible stranded wire from then on down to the electronickery! Then there's no strain on the fragile wiring when you remove the cabin for maintenance etc. That light 'wrapping' wire is fine for the LED circuits as they only take a few tens of milliamps. I'm also looking at the possibility to use a common return (negative) lead to minimise the wires needed on the mast itself. I buy my wire Online as well, almost no shops left where you can go an look at stuff🤔 Was surprised and disappointed at the limited choice at Radio Shack, pretty miserable compared with the range I can get here from Conrad, and many others, even Krick Modellbau. I'm multiplexing my projects with yours, and others who have approached me by PM. Trouble is I can never resist a challenge! What I'm doing for your Richardson will also be the basis for some mods to my Southampton😉 Anyone know a good 'Cloning Shop'? 😁😁 Big 3D printer and an Isaac Asimov Positronic brain perhaps? Cheers All, Doug 😎

Rear Deck assembly –(upper tow deck) by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
I propose to make the rear deck and the deck which carries the tow hook all as a complete piece that lifts out in one. Although its going to be in one piece the full assembly still has to be made as separate components so first job is to cut the individual panels again using the card inserts to make sure the end assembly has clearance. The tow hook deck is the first piece to be dealt with and epoxied as a sub assembly. Having completed the wooden frame I then took a break and did some more planking, first a mahogany boarder and then glue a black card calk around its inside edge, next cut and sand each plank to fit in the space left, these could then be glued in place with a black card calk between each plank. After a period of drying I sanded the whole surface level. Next I put the nail holes in again using the jig I made to ensure uniform spacing and then gave a coat of sanding sealer. When the rest of the subassemblies are complete they will all be lacquered together before final assembly.

engine by hammer Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Thanks for your comments appreciated, Doug. Unfortunately I don’t have a milling cutter smaller than 3mm. The slot is only 1.5. I will have a look at your build. Gina my daughters name. I also don’t have a rotary table. I needed to cut the curved slots in the regulator- reverser. So with a fiddle I managed, with the vice which can turn. Stuck to a square of brass (super glue). Careful measuring so the centres all line up, including vice pivot. 3mm cutter in use Doug. The two parts of the regulator parted off 1in brass rod. Something learned doing this with a fixed steady, place card between tool and steady. Stop chips getting in the steady & jamming it. Silver soldered the pipes to block. Did have to drill one out after, even being mean with the solder. And carbon on the end of pipe.

Hellen Fishing Boat by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi All This year I bought an unstarted kit, but, sold it to a club member. A month later one of the club member wish to swap for a faster boat and as my Sea Commander required a repaint and fittings. I thought a swap for a very good working Hellen was a good deal. So are making a dingy and replacing the broken prop with a brass one I had my second Hellen for the year. Three weeks ago another Hellen pops up on Gumtree(aka EBAY), so it was to cheap not to buy it. While waiting for it to come, I made a new stand, a dingy with oars and a set of fenders. When it arrive the mast where laying on the deck broken, but , the posted pics show that. The motor is a 11 to 1 geared MFA Como 919 D which runs OK. A spare new plastic prop. Started on the repairs, like the keel and deck around the mast bases. The aft mast was broken in half, so I brass sleeved it. The aft sail was missing and the forward sail was all glued up, so I bin it. So this is the boat pics so far. Canabus

Cabin detail Pt 1 by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Hi there Colin I used 0.3 mm black card just cut in to strips using a rule and Stanley knife then using aliphatic glue, gluing each piece in followed by a plank and working across the piece, then removing the excess card with a blade followed by sanding with dry sandpaper, if there is any staining of the planks this is easily removed with a pencil rubber.

Cabin roofs by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Theoretically this should be a very straight forward process and a change from rubbing down the hull so let’s look at the instructions – what instructions! First of all fit some thin card to the sides of the cabin walls to allow for a clearance fit (cornflakes packet) then some minor trimming of the spars to give an exact ,(not tight) fit across the side supports, I decided to pin each of the parts together as well as epoxy in the joints. I always find the best approach is to use a jig to drill pilot holes for the pins ensuring that the pins do not split the wood and the construction is accurate. The frame is then glued up and placed back in the boat and left to dry next job is to fit the corner strengthening pieces, the easiest way I found was to put a card support for the corners to rest on whilst they set still in the cabin structure. Looking forward I had decided to retain the cabin lids with Neodymium magnets so I machined a slot in the corner pieces underside to house the magnets, to be fitted at a later date. Next job is to fit the roof skins which again will be pinned using the 0.7mm brass pins. The roof skins are now epoxied in place so I need to mark out the position of the secondary panels. Looking at the pieces and the instructions the spacer frames seem to be the same size but I was sure I’d read somewhere that these overhung by 2-3mm, reading Robs blog conformed this to be the case. So some trimming required before fitting and marking out the appropriate position then being glued into position. The mid cabin was assembled in exactly the same way

Wianno Senior progressing by Ron Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Not your traditional clamping method, but it works when the hull is very thin and clamps just do not meet the required pressure point. When the glue is dry under the deck, I will sand lightly, then apply the fibreglass.

Vosper Rescue -target towing launch by Lauriem Lieutenant   Posted: 12 days ago
I'm starting to build a Veron kit of the Vosper Rescue-target towing launch, which I bought on Ebay. This boat seems quite rare - well to me anyway - although Belair sell one currently which is similar but slightly larger (34in long - mine is 28in). The kit is obviously old and if anyone knows when these were sold then please let me know. The structure is balsa - not my favourite wood - and ply for the exterior. Balsa does not hold temporary or permanent pins well, and holding things in position while the glue dries is made more difficult. The balsa has been pre-cut to shape and several of the curved pieces are weak in places where the grain is inevitably across the length of the piece. I broke several parts and needed ply backing to repair. Glue used is 5 min epoxy. The keel is made up of several pieces and to get the right shape I photocopied part of the plan and laid the parts on that to set while gluing.

Windows, stoopid question. by Jimbo Petty Officer   Posted: 14 days ago
Well back to the windeys,thanks for the info on windey fitting,been wondering meself how best to glaze em.now I iknow. Never tried it but my mate says he makes his frames from>> model railway lines the flexy type>> glued round the glazing and poped in the hole,anyone else done it this way ? Jim

Fitting Propshafts by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Two part Epoxy Andy 👍 But I prefer to glue the tube rather than the shaft! 😲😁

Fitting Propshafts by AndyG009 Lieutenant   Posted: 14 days ago
What do people use to glue propshafts in place ?

Her Majesty's Savior by RedRider Lieutenant   Posted: 15 days ago
Hello Folks, Have gotten away from this project until recently. Am in the process of assembling the top deck. Have a question? ..... Has anyone used a glue gun in their assemblies, whether it be for only a few parts or more? Anyway, here's where I'm at recently....

Windows, stoopid question. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
Evenin' Martin, Beat ya 2 it! just made the ally jaw covers 😉 I do have smooth jaw vices (or vici !?) but they are only small machine vices. I use 'em mostly with the milling machine. Ta for the frame info (tilt type), must say I'm relieved, simplifies the sawing and fettling👍 I did the filing and fettling of my windows in the vice as well, with wood blocks between them and vice😉 except the last few irritating thou which I did freehand on the end of the bench. Ta for saw link as well. Looks like a more versatile fret saw, which I have but fixed length and I suppose the metal blades I have for it are probably too coarse for 1mm ally. Will probably order the set with 144 various blades. Funny, most of 'em seem to be made here in Germany but so far I can only find 'em on English sites!? Know what you mean about V block, will probably make one. My 'mechanical problem' now is cutting a 3x0.6 thread on the 3mm propshaft I made. First attempt bent the shaft 😡 Stupid die just doesn't want to bite, an' it's 'nigel nagel neu'. Hilfe! Nice frames and gutters 👍 Sorry about the car, hope it's not toooo expensive😲 Marky; Rasp? or raspberry ? Fruit is less painful 😁 Commodore; but is your 'raincoat' tinted and scratch-proof ?😁 Cheers All, Doug 😎 Nearly forgot; Martin can you please elucidate (yes it is legal😉) on the 'dummy screws with a sharpened tube'. Not quite with you yet on that! Glad you like the glue👍