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>> Home > Tags > glue

glue
glue
Edward . M. Cotter by GARTH Lieutenant   Posted: 3 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 39" Edward . M. Cotter Capable of 3mph and a runtime of 60mins Single Propellor (4 Blade 70mm) Direct Drive to a Johnson (4 Blade) Powered by NiMH (7.2v) 4Amp/h Batteries - Comments: The real fire boat is stationed in Buffalo New York . This fire boat visits Port Colborne on Lake Erie every year for Canal Days & because the model boat club I'm in sets up a display at the museum in town I decided to build a scratch build of this boat I used the prints of the Sequin Midwest tug for the hull & Internet photos for details. I used the tops of Lepages glue bottle to simulate the Monitor on the decks I'm real proud of them.

Torpedo props by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi Steve It would be possible to make a silicon mould and cast with Fast Cast resin. Quite a lot of work for just two parts, and making the mould to allow the air to escape would not be easy. You could make the parts from some plastic rod fettled to shape with the blades from Litho plate cut to size and super-glued in place. Having originals to copy should enable fair replicas to be fashioned and as they are static and part hidden in a tube round the props I believe it is do-able. Good luck Dave

The life rings. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
The white metal life rings supplied in the fittings kit not only look flat and uninteresting but more than that they weigh in at 57 grams individually and along with the rest of the metal fittings above deck will raise the centre of gravity quite a lot and may affect the roll of the hull on turns. Well that’s my theory anyway and I’m using it to justify replacing them with something lighter and more pleasing to the eye. I found some plastic ones on eBay that were roughly the same diameter for a couple of pounds each that looked ideal. The rope detail needed to be added to them to replicate the originals and this was done with some nylon cord that I superglued into slots filed into the circumference. I then wound seven turns to form the quadrants, securing each turn with a spot of glue and ensuring that the ends all arrived on what will be the underside of the rings. They were then sprayed with a couple of coats of white acrylic and the red bands brush painted. The weight of the new life ring is 19 grams, exactly one third of the metal one and it looks, to my eye, a million times better 😁 To locate them on the engine room roof I cut some 3mm plasticard wedges and superglued them in place, the actual fixing will be two small screws from the underside of the roof. The white metal ones will make ideal ballast weights if I need to make any adjustments 😉

Wheel assembled by Trillium Lieutenant   Posted: 8 days ago
The paddles were cut from 0.050” styrene, the attachment points for the support arms drilled, and the support arms fitted and glued in with epoxy. The paddles and the side wheel assembly were painted black, with small pieces of masking tape over the pivot holes in the paddle support arms, where the pivot tubes were glued to them, and painted over later. When it came to assembling the parts, the sequence was as follows: - Fastened one end of the links to the inside face of the master rod (looks like a banjo); using #2-56 UNC bolts with the bolt heads on the outside face, a 4.5mm length of 1/8” brass tube as a bushing, and two #4 washers, and a #2-56 nyloc nut. - Inserted a #4-40 UNC bolt and washer in the centre of the master rod from the inside, secured it with a 5/32” brass tube bushing, lock washer and nut - Fastened the outer end of the links to the paddle arms, with the links on the outside of the paddle arms, with the bolt heads on the inside face, otherwise same as inner end of the links. The next step is to make the support for the pivot of the feathering mechanism.

Michael by Grandpa Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 16 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 18" Michael Capable of 3mph and a runtime of 30mins Single Propellor (3 Blade) Geared Powered by NiMH (7.2v) Batteries - Comments: I use two 2400 Wolf Pack battery sets one one each side of the hull to add ballast plus, B-B shot is glued in the hull for weight too. My grandson helped to build and paint it thus the vessel named Michael The boat was too fast with a direct drive so it was replaced with a 3:1 geared reduction. Runs much better more scale speed. The first motor made it look like a speed boat, which was dangerous if my grandson were to sail it.

Part 2. The searchlight optics. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
The reflector that I originally used for testing came from Maplins and was not a particularly good fit and it also produced a broad diffused light, but I found another lens from the same supplier that could be adapted to fit and would produce a much narrower 10° beam. The lens body was too long to fit into the searchlight body so I 'ground down' the lens on some abrasive to a size that would fit using progressively finer grades of wet & dry paper. The lens was then polished with some cutting/polishing compound to restore the optical clarity.🤓 The original and modified lenses are shown in the 'photos. The lens now fits perfectly into the searchlight body and produces a much narrower and focussed beam of light. I cut and shaped a piece of 1mm clear perspex to form a protective cover over the lens to hold it in the searchlight body and make it waterproof. The searchlight on the real boat has a 'tri-form’ protective cage with a centre boss (my description, there’s probably a proper name for it ), this part is not supplied in the white metal kit so I constructed one from some 22mm copper plumbing pipe, some brass pins and a hand turned and drilled brass rod for the centre boss. These parts were ‘soft soldered’ together as silver soldering would be quite difficult because of the different heat gradients. Before final assembly I will paint the parts gloss grey and secure the optical and protective lens with some canopy glue which will form a flexible seal and won’t ’fog’ the lens as superglue would, and then epoxy the 'tri-form' cage to the front. Hopefully the end result will be well worth the effort and do justice to my brother’s lathe skills!😎

Life Rings by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
Well along with having glued my superstructure together. I was able to glue in place, all the life rings I had from a previous build.

Caldercraft Professional Glue by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
Hi Ed, didn't realise you were so far out, like you said £2 for the right stuff is ok Mark

Caldercraft Professional Glue by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Hi Mark, It only cost me £2.02 to post from Cornwall Model Boats. That's not much considering, if I were to go to my local hobby shop it would cost me about £6.00 just to go. and I would have to travel one hour in one direction. So I actually don't mind waiting or paying a little bit of post for my supplies. and it just takes about a week and a half turn around time. I have looked in my local Walmart but didn't find the right stuff. I had been waiting over two months to find the right glue and I did just that. The wait time paid off, Patients is a virtue!👍

Caldercraft Professional Glue by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Hi Ed, Happy new year, have a look in your local builders merchant or walmart type place, thick cyno is common to a lot of sellers, would save you postage to, same as pva, buy the stuff from a woodworking store Regards Mark

Caldercraft Professional Glue by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
I never glued the superstructure of the San Pedro together. I was waiting to see if I could find a thick glue. This I found in the Cornwall Model Boats website, It took about a week and a half to get to me. Now all I have to do is glue the San Pedro superstructure together. First lets experiment and see how the glue works. Well I took a piece of 1/8" ply one drop of glue did it. It was glued instantly instead of the ply just absorbing the glue. the glue was thick enough were it glued the pieces together, Success... I also tried it on plastic, with great success also...

Anchor Chain by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
Steve, I have in the past painted my chains, using acrylic paint. I watered down the paint, very thin verscosity. I then dipped the cain just for a few minutes then pulled it out and left it to dry It did work but I also left 2 meters length of brass chain in sea water and it did oxidize nicely. I guess it all depends on your choise. I've used both techniques, with success mind you. As for my tug I've almost completed it, I'm waiting on some glue. I ordered from CMB, I should be recieving it in the post by friday. Then I'll be able to glue together my superstructure. And finish that boat. I'm also working on my Box Barge. which is completed but not sealed or resined yet. As for the Pilot Boat it's in the works, Just have to clear it with the wife of course! I really admire yours as you did a great job on it. I show it to the wife a bunch of time, giving her hints that the next project I want....👍 PS. I tried seeing the video but, didn't see which one it was. I have seen the night time video you made awhile back.

To resin cover or not my ulises steam tug by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 26 days ago
I would recommend you follow Mark's very sound advice. I built a Billings Mercantic (plank on frame with Cascamite) many years ago. Over time the planks split either side of the glue line. I had also followed the instructions but now cover all my wooden hulls as suggested. So much easier to do when building than several years later with all the paint removal and replacement of rotted wood. Good luck with the boat Dave

Kingfisher progress by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
Hi Last time I looked the plan clearly showed the rudder well clear of the stern. The prop shaft was much further forward than shown in your latest post. The problem is the rudder post will be too near the transom stern to allow you to fit a linkage to your servo. You need to mark on the hull from the plan where the rudder should be fitted and fit it then adjust the prop shaft to the correct position. Not sure how much room you have between the prop and hull but one solution would be to remove the propshaft and bearing then cut the prop tube and skeg so that there was enough space for the rudder and refit the bearing and propshaft. The alternative is to unglue the prop shaft assembly and move forward to give the space. I believe you used the plans to set the slot in the hull so it should all fit. Sorry probably not what you wanted to hear but your present layout doesn't allow for rudder control. If you wan't to discuss please send me a pm and I will offer any further help you require Dave

The fire monitors by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
The fire monitors are supplied in three pieces that need to be assembled, there is the pedestal, the main body & handles and the discharge nozzle (my descriptions, they may have a proper technical term!) 🤔 Before assembly all the parts were filed smooth, and cleaned with my ‘suede shoe brush’ to remove flash and blemishes and to give a key for subsequent paint. I felt that just glueing the main body and discharge nozzle together would not be sufficiently strong so I bored out the centre of each and inserted a 4mm threaded stud to pull them together, some threadlock on the stud and then some filler at the join produced a good result. The hole at the end of the discharge nozzle also looks more authentic. The pedestal was also bored out at both ends, the lower end for a 3mm stud and for a 2mm threaded stud at the upper end. The arms need to be carefully bent to the correct angle, you only really get one attempt at this as the white metal will not stand repeated bending and will probably fracture quite easily. I also added a small 'lever arm' feature to the bottom of the pedestal that appears in some photographs of the real item, this was finished with a hand turned brass knob. The finished parts were sprayed with one coat of grey etch primer, a coat of white primer and finally two coats of Halfords ‘Toolbox Red’ acrylic gloss. I assembled the two pieces when the paint had hardened and put a dab of red paint on the top fixing nut. The handle ends will also be detailed with some black paint or perhaps some black heat shrink.