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46" RAF Crash/Fire Tender Kit Brand New & Boxed + Almost everything needed to complete the build. Cost £565 - A True Bargain at £300 for the lot – Don’t miss this great opportunity Sale Includes: All items are brand new, unopened Vosper 46" RAF Crash Tender Kit x 1 Boat ESC Programming Card x 1 90A Boat ESC 4A SBEC x 1 11.1V 5000mAh 35C continuous discharge lipo battery x 2 Tornado Thumper V2 4260/06 500KV - Brushless Outrunner RC Motor x 1 Canopy Glue Formula 560 x 1 Prop Shaft - 13" Maxidrive ( 8mm Tube/5mm Inner ) x 1 Propshaft Grease x1 Universal Joint x 1 Propshaft Oiler Clamp Kit x 1 XL Brass Rudder x 1 Waterproof Toggle Switch x 1 ZAP Z Poxy x 1 Dual Power iMAX B6 AC Lipo NiMh RC Battery Balance Charger/Discharger x 1 Woven Glass Twill 100g 1m Wide x 3 EL2 Epoxy Laminating Epoxy 770g + AT30 Epoxy Hardener Slow 230g x 1 30 Amp Inline Mini Blade Fuse Holder & Fuse (Splashproof) x 1 Flexible Silicone Wire Cable 14AWG Red & Black x 1 5 Pairs XT-60 Male Female Lipo Battery Connectors Plugs x 1 Collected from Burton on Trent or Could meet part way Bargain at £300 for the lot. Cost £565 so a saving of £265.
While waiting for paint and lacquer to dry I thought I'd try making a flagstaff to go at the stern to take an RAF ensign that I'd like to fit. I used a short length of 5mm brass tube set into a circular flange that I shaped from some brass sheet. The hole in the flange was filed out to take the 5mm tube at an angle and was soft soldered into place, a 2mm nut was then press fitted into the base of the tube and secured with a drop of superglue. The pole we made from some 2mm brass rod tapped with a 2mm thread on one end. A short length of 4mm rod was bored out with a 2mm hole and was soft soldered close to the end to fit snugly into the 5mm base tube to act as a spacer, and another short piece of brass hand turned to make a knob at the upper end. During initial construction I had set a wood block below the deck at this point to provide a support for a flagstaff (always thinking ahead 😉) and this was drilled out at an angle for the 5mm base which was epoxied in place ensuring that base was seated correctly and the flagstaff was vertically aligned. The length of the flagstaff is about 11cm above the deck and is removable for transportation. It turned out really well and I will keep the brass finish but give it a coat of clear lacquer to prevent it tarnishing. I will order the two flags (flagstaff and mast) from Mike Alsop flags & ensigns as soon as I have worked out the correct sizes for 1:12 scale.
HI Ed, have had a thought, try putting a powerful torch inside the hull, in a dark room you might be able to see were the light is escaping, i would not try the fillet of glue, this may just pass the problem down the seam, Dave M's idea of plasticard angle will not only fix the crack but reinforce the whole area, lot of hassel i know but with the weight of the hull it will only get worse with movement
Hi Ed I would probably use the back edge of a small chisel to gently scrape the paint from the plastic. To aid adhesion any shinny surfaces need to be gently scoured to allow the glue to penetrate the plastic. as you have some scrap you can see if MEK dissolves the plastic, if it doesn't it wont work. If it's PVC then you will need a PVC type glue as methyl ethly ketone is for plasticard type. PVC is usually used for guttering etc, I would be surprised if it was used for your model but it would explain the poor joints. As you can't get inside you will need to add a cover all round the boat over the join. You can get angled plasticard which would certainly help strengthen the join especially as it is carrying the 21lbs weight. The added benefit would be a neat edge all round. You can shape plasticard by heating in warm water and bending to shape. If you tape in place it will retain the shape when it has cooled. You might also be OK using your Z -poxy providing you roughen the angle and hull where they join. Dave
If you have any plastic that needs glueing and waterproof and only has a small contact point the stufff to use is something called plexsis acrylic comes in a 2part compound and mixed in the nosel as it is squeeze out. It's the best thing out there. I build super yachts for 20 years now for the rich and famous and we use a lot of it on boats that are in the 20 to 30 million prise range . There are some different types rock hard. To ones with a bit of flexibility all dry with in 10 to 15 mins thanks for reading and I do hope this will help people with problems ..... master b Wright
Hi Mark, The rudder tubes are well above the water line! But I'll check them out. And the prop shafts were greest properly But i will recheck! I think I'm going to have to look at all the seams! Thanks for the advice, 👍 Hi Dave, The glue i used was Zap-a-Gap, also so Z-Poxy for the wood structure! I'm going to go over the hull and see if I can trace the leak! I suspect a seam that's on the bottom of the hull. That's where I felt the leak when I picked up the hull. But who know exactly where the water is coming from. I'll keep you posted, Thanks for your input really appreciate it 👍 Ed PS. I'm looking into the UHU Plus Acrylit!
Hi Ed, You mentioned water ingress, I carry to boating pond a number of bits and tools, one of which is a > 100 ml Syringe ... There is one on Amazon with a tube to reach into difficult to access areas. The advice about glue for plastic to pastic seems helpful, I had similar problem of trying to obtain water proof join of plastic and wood. Best of luck, Paul.
Hi Ed What a bummer. I agree with Mark on how to find the leak(s). I have looked back over your blog and on page three you mentioned the plasticard hull had split and you showed a pic and the subsequent repair. I suspect this or a similar joint where the plasticard is bent may be your problem. You have mentioned resin covering but this may not have been possible. What glue did you use? Plastic can be difficult to glue. Stablitz Express was the best when I used to build the Robbe and Graupner model planes. Not cheap but works. UHU Plus Acrylit ( a direct substitute) is available in the UK, Leeds Model Centre http://www.modelshopleeds.co.u k/ have stock, use the site search to find it. Hope you find and cure. Dave
Hi Robbob I bought one built without running gear two weeks ago, but with a new set of Decals and new life buoys which I will make the locating bits as the old one's where only glued on. Half the bulb lights do not work so I have removed the wheelhouse roof. The grab hooks(which I have made), the drive line brushes required replacing so I replaced the shaft as well. Installed a Hobbyking 3648-1450kv with a 2 blade 40mm prop. I do not think my boat will be as nice as yours, but, I have seen a few bits on yours I can make, like an opening wheelhouse hatch
OK, I've received my three crewmen from C.M.B. after about a week of time. They are finally here and glued in place! I think I'll order five or six more just to put around the boat! Three crewmen just doesn't do it.
quite a few years ago I was asked if I could make a model boat hull for a friends son. As then a laminator it was an easy job after making the plug to the approx specs asked for. I made the plug and mould then cast a test moulding asked if i could keep the test mould and was told by all means have one. The mould was handed over when completed and payment ect was made. The test moulding i just stuck in the loft Not knowing I would ever start modeling boats so much later in life. So Now I am into the model boats hobby. Here is the hull with twin outlets for the propshaft. And progress so far with the superstructure. Approx 51 inches long 17 inches wide and a depth of 11 inches. As I was paid to do the job nothing in the end belonged to me except the hull I was told I could have. In writing I may add.. Made a flat sheet of laminate and enclosed the whole hull on the top. Cut out an area for the superstructure and as you can see I have started a rough looking superstructure. I have no plans or drawings for this so it will go where ever it ends up I guess.. Apart from the hull I plan on using ALL recycled materials from our local tip. Paint .Plastic and everything else... The big idea apart from saving material from the tip is to make the model at the lowest possible cost. Motors and some other electrical parts will be removed and put into this model from the Ayton cross So all the parts will be transferable from model to model. Well thats the plan anyway. Guess I will have to wait and see how that goes later. Prop shafts props and rudders will be new so NOT replaceable. The timber so far a lump of 4x2 from the tip Free all cut down and sanded. The superstructure I have used a large fliptop plastic white bin from the tip again £1.00 Superglue bought from the local £1. shop. Filler and sanding paper I already have. So I have started it. I will update as I go along..