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>> Home > Tags > glue

glue
glue
Decks by AlanP Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 hours ago
Templates were made out of cardboard, good job that I like Weetabix, a bit of messing about but eventually I got a good fit, these were transferred onto the 3mm ply for the deck. Before fitting the deck the ply was given a couple of coats of Z-Poxy finishing resin rubbing down in-between coats, this filled in the grain ready for painting and also made it waterproof. After the glue had dried the deck and bulwark were given a coat of primere, then two coats of the finishing colour. After a week of the paint left to harden the coamings (if that's the right spelling) were glued in place.

Rubrails in place! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 hours ago
The rubrails are know in place! 1/8" square plastic rods are glued. on to the rubrail padding. On the fiberglass hull this was molded on the hull! The hull becomes very rigged. After you put the rubrail padding. Then put the rubrail on. Make the hull quite sound!👍

Caprail and Rubrail in place! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 hours ago
I have glued the Caprail on. Have to use the Bondo (p38)again! There's quite a few seams. from where the caprail joins together! Rudder is in place as well. I have temperarily placed the bollard on deck. To see how they look! In place is the dowel. that will be used as the stem post at the bow.

Just getting started by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Here's a starter kit more specifically aimed at 'ship builders' 😉 https://www.modelerscentral.com/tools-paints- style='background-color:yellow;'>glue/tool-kits/beginners-tool-kit-basic/ Happy shopping👍

Simulated Ribs in Place! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
32 pieces of 1/8" squared by about 1/2" high spruce. Glued in place every 2" apart! Next comes the caprail...

Skinning the hull (sides) by mturpin013 Lieutenant   Posted: 3 days ago
The boat has to be placed upside down so first thing to do is to modify the base board so the hull is firm to be able to do any final trimming. Before the skins are fitted the bow areas have to be sealed being careful not to seal the parts which are to be glued The instructions say that the lower skins are fitted first and as they are 6mm oversize this allows for trimming to achieve a good fit. After some time I got a fit I was happy with from the stern to the start of the bow curve so at this point I pinned the skin at the B2,3,4,5 leaving enough material to trim to the bow curve prior to bending . The bending was done simply by soaking in hot water for 5 - 7 mins and then forming around a suitable paint tin and left overnight to dry. Before fitting I decided to trim the skin at the front bow area where it has a butt joint with the side skins, easier than trying to cut it out after it had been glued. Point to note was that while the bending was being carried out, I also bent he side skins as well. Having pre drilled all the holes for the pins and ensured the fit is as good as I can get I can now epoxy the first skin on.

Bulwarks and deck supports by AlanP Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
The next stage was to smooth out the Bukwarks so that a deck support could be fitted around the hull, the washports and rope hawsers were cut out, if I was to do this again I would cut these out after filling the bulwarks. P38 was used to smooth out the Bulwarks, this really was a labour of love, lots of filling and sanding. For the deck support around the hull I used 3mm lime (Ikea blinds) two layers to give 6mm support glued with Araldite. The rest of the deck supports were then glued in place, I think it was at this stage that I added the two battery placements after having the hull in the bath to work out were they had to go.

The Bulwark! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
The Bulwark is reinforced using 1/8" ABS plastic. It adds thickness and makes the boat more rigid! Also you have to put 1/8" squared wood pieces! This adds more thickness to the Bulwark. Gives it more to grab on to when you go to glue the caprail on!

Deck Beams and Anchor Port's by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Evenin' Fred, just got back from shopping & car-wash, -3C° and still snowing 😡 so no sailing for a while😭 Thinks; must chuck my hovercraft together 😉 Re: marking out - use a medium tip red felt marker and it'll show up on anything (except perhaps red satin pyjamas!!😲😁) If you've got a mini-drill (Dremel or similar) just whiz the paint off where you need to glue with a mini sanding disc. No great shakes, we've all had to do it, especially with renovations. Cheers Doug 😎

Rudder Post in place! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
First I had to draw lines from. One corner to the next. This was done to get the center of the block! But as I don't have a drill press. The hole I drilled is a fraction off! The tube that goes through the block. Comes out of the hull in the right location! 😁 I then glued it in place. And ran some polyester resin to hold the block in position.

Test fit the Rudder! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi Ed, I thought the brass looked a bit flimsy in your first pic of it🤔 I would be tempted to replace it with something thicker and slot it into the keel, fixed with epoxy glue. As I did on my U25 after discovering, by research in the Deutsches Museum here in Munich, that Krick had got it all wrong! Even the rudder shape was wrong, I corrected it to original drawings found in the museum. Rudder is brass with the stock slit as Colin suggested and soldered using my 50W iron as previously described. 😊 Cheers Doug PS Shaft struts were added as well, soldered to the tubes the same way. PPS original red😡plastic props are due for replacement by Rabeosch brass!

Completed Rudder by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
So, the rudder is completed! It's made up of thin ABS plastic with a brass core. The rudder has to be cut out of a sheet of ABS plastic You are suppose to laminate the rudder. I found this task a bit difficult. Because both halfs are the same size! What the folks at Dumas recommend. Is to overlay one half over the other! Then glue the seam, with out gluing your fingers! It's mentioned that the pilot house has a thin film. You must remove prier to assembly Well, I found out the hard way so does the Rudder! Dave M, I will be ordering a new rudder and rudder post. once I have a better torch. I will do a better job at soldering the rudder together!😉

Formers in-planking starts! by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Always good to hear of different makes of adhesive that others use. In a warm room most of these types of wood glue set very quickly to a hold state, developing full strength over 12 hours. A far cry from the days of Cascamite! which I recall seemed to take 24hrs, a lifetime when you are 5 years old.

Formers in-planking starts! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
So, this morning saw the remaining formers glued and weighted whilst setting. Have finished the day with laying down the first 2 planks up against the keel. Once I’ve got the 2 planks glued in against the other side of the keel will then add 1 or 2 planks each side at the same time and allow to set before moving on, all the time weighted down with my trusty vice in the hope of a straight hull at the end! All straights so far!

Lady T by AlanP Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
This is a build of the LadyT from Mobile Marine Models, I am quite a way into the build now and have not taken photo's of every part of the build and I may get things a bit out of sequence, but I will do my best. The hull and a set of templates was given to me, I have found out that the templates in most cases are for guidence only. The hull is not one of the best mouldings I have had but with a bit of effort was knocked into shape. In order that the rudder could be removed from the boat for repair I glued a piece of 3mm brass strip to the hull with Araldit and P38 filler, another piece of brass with a hole to take the rudder was laid on top and two 3.3mm holes drilled through both pieces, the brass on the hull was tapped 4mm and the piece with the hole for the rudder was drilled 4mm clear and countersunck. By undoing the tiller arm and removing the two 4mm countersunk screws the rudder can be removed for repair. The rudder was made with thin ply and P38 using the drawing to make a template of the shape.