As the stern needed the most reshaping, decided to tackle it first. Made up a wooden insert to reflect the correct deck stern contour and glued it in between the deck supports. This would give the stern be the correct shape and length. Once that was positioned pulled the hull up tight to the supports. As the stern is approached the sharper profile of the Teakwood requires the hull sides to be pulled firmly inwards and the transom be vertical. Decided this was not going to epoxy and stay in place satisfactorily once the strain was released, so cut a series of vertical slots in the rear hull to allow it relax and squeeze it together. One slot has to be quite deep, otherwise the lower hull will crack as it will not relax sufficiently. Used the Dremel cutting disc for this. The slots need to be quite generous as the the hull has to be pulled in some distance. Once this was all epoxied in place, wrapped “cling film” around the rear of the hull and poured liquid fibreglass resin around the slots and under the insert to bond everything together. Worked this onto all the vertical and horizontal surfaces as it set. The stern is now good and rigid. The attached pictures show the new stern profile and slots. The first pictures are “as is” to illustrate the process. Further work was also needed to true up the bulwarks and disguise the slots. This mutilation may seem a brutal way of getting the hull shape correct, but had tried all kinds of pulling and squeezing of the hull, none of which held in place after the clamps were released. Once the cosmetic aspects of the stern rework were complete, established the correct location for the rudder post and fitted it. The major stern work is now finished.
That's a great model kit. I have built several Dumas kits over the years and have never been disappointed. They allow you to use your imagination and skills; but my first RC project some28 years ago was a Billings Boats 1:20 USCG 44 foot Motor Lifeboat like yours with an ABS hull and wood superstructure. To be honest, I've been working on her for as long as I've been a father! Always adding details or overhauling, I reckon. A couple of years ago I took her apart and repainted the hull. Now I am periodically reassembling her with 52' Motor Lifeboathe original fittings. My present project is a Barracuda RC Boats 1:12 USCG 52' Motor Lifeboat, of which there are only three kits world-wide. The actual MLB "Triumph" (CG-52301, 2 were built in 1935) was lost with all hands during a rescue attempt off Cape Disappointment, WA in January 1961. My Father built strong aircraft, and I always preferred boats. I overbuild my boats in the same manner. My weakness is that I can't wait for the glue to dry. Looks good & keep up the great work! GO CUBS!
Only way to see if it works is to make a test rig and hold the exciter in place to see what it sounds like. Don't use the glue pads for now just hold in place with light pressure. Radar should be ok weight wise. All batteries should not be charged in a model, ever! They all contain chemicals and if a fault develops or they leak explosive gases the last place they should be is in an enclosed environment. There are high power NiMhs that may be suitable as they can be had in different formations. Component Shop will make up a pack to your specs. If you rush the only thing being spoiled will be the boat!
Hi bellman, (from Doug BELL😉) This is another 'How long is a piece of string question'! Only way to find out is to build it, and do a payload test. Put weight in it until it floats to the waterline and upright and stable. I use chunks of lead and lead balls (fishing weights). Weigh the lead. Easiest way is to weigh the empty hull first, then again with 'payload'. Difference is your payload weight for the hull, including all equipment, decks, superstructure etc. Before you glue any other parts to the hull weigh them and subtract from the payload test weight as you go. When compete you should then know how much weight you have left available for equipment. Weigh the equipment; motors, shafts, electronics, batteries etc. Anything 'left over' is the ballast you need. Try to fit it inside as low as possible, the lead balls are good for final trimming. When all is correct simply pour a little resin over them to hold them in place. Only time I fitted ballast outside, a long steel bar keel, was on my U26 sub. But then U Boats had such an emergency 'drop keel' so it looked 'Right'! Happy building, Doug 😎
Recently visited the U.K and collected the hull from a relative. It is now back in Canada so a detailed examination can be carried out. First impressions are: 1) The Deans Velarde hull bulwarks have fortunately not been trimmed to the final dimensions, these are marked in pencil. The excess material will really help as the Teakwood forecastle extends further sternwards and this extra material avoids having to build the forward bulwarks up. 2) The hull has many details added to facilitate positioning; portholes, rubbing strakes etc. These will all have to be sanded off as they do not fit the Teakwood. 3) The Velarde has a pronounced “dodger” on top of the bulwarks around the bow. This will also have to be removed. 4) The bow leading edge is quite bluff, possibly to suite the GF manufacturing process. This will probably work in my favour as it can be extended forward and slimmed into the Teakwood style entry, which is sharper and more vertical. 5) The hull is slightly oversize (about .300”) , not enough to be concerned about, but it does make the revised LBP correct! 6) The hull is nicely made and a credit to Deans Marine. The initial plan was to modify the hull shape first to adapt it into the Teakwood. Decided, as it is quite flexible, it would be better to add a keel strip, bulkheads and deck supports first. It would then become rigid enough to work. This revision to my original thoughts proved the best approach. The hull needs several modifications, but until it is rigid it is premature to implement them. The modifications will only prove more difficult and then inaccurate. Made up a number of plywood bulkheads, based upon the MM Velarde plan, but reduced in height to suite the Teakwood. As these are trial fitted into place in the GF hull further adjustments can be made. Once satisfied with the bulkhead fit, they and the keel were epoxied into place. Horizontal stringers were also added to ensure the bulkheads were accurately positioned, vertical and not twisted until the epoxy set. Can probably remove them once the hull structure is compete, although they could also be left in place to support the deck. Will probably largely leave in place. Deck support stringers were also epoxied into place and the hull sides glued to them. The hull is now good and stiff and can be worked safely. As the stern portion will require further adjustment, the sides were left free from the stern bulkhead rearwards. This will allow the rework without cutting through recently fitted items.
Hi Selwyn, Like Delboy says, absolutely anything is feasible, my print volume in mm LWH is 220 x 220 x 240, I printed a 1/16 scale LCM3 landing craft, its in about 30 pieces that were all glued together, it took approx 6 weeks to print with the printer running 12+ hours per day... Take a look at this video of a printed ship, this guy doesn't mess around! https://youtu.be/QaIjdgTiP0o Enjoy Cheers Wayne
Everything is feasible. You have to realise the constraints of the system though. My printer has a maximum build volume of around 200x200x200 mm which is generous in the home printer category. Many are much smaller. So, to get a model of any size, you might have to cut it into blocks which are glued together after printing.
I have an old Southampton , off E.Bay a couple of years ago. I fitted the Components shop mixer, 2x 3400mAH NiMh packs(one for each motor)2 Mtroniks 15A Marine vipers, Technobots diesel sound system and also a Technobots 16 channel sound system. There is not a lot of spare space! I had a problem with the mixer eventually. It worked very well, as I did not think the turning circle in the original form was very good. I took it out eventually and went over to tank steering, which is OK but seems to be more effective in turning one way rather than the other, it's fine in a straight line. I found out after I had removed the mixer that the supposed problem was of my own making. So many wires inside that I was not in fact charging one of the battery packs so it ended up flat. Nothing wrong with the mixer at all! I mounted the engine sound speaker in the lower half of the cabin,where there was just enough room, where the window openings are not glazed(at least on my boat they aren't). Sound was OK but it was a bit lacking in volume, but I may need a higher power speaker, not sure as audio is a non area to me. The 16 channel unit is good in that a micro SD card is supplied with pre- recorded sounds, and instructions are given on how to record your own. The difficulty with this particular sound system is finding somewhere to put the second speaker as the 2 systems cannot be fed into the same speaker. It was a bit faint to say the least,possibly due to the tiny speaker I used. I tried to fit a transducer glued to the underside of the deck but there was no improvement so that is a work in progress. The inside of the hull resembled a very untidy birds nest! CHris
Hi Dave, agree with the talc idea, sometimes I file a piece of busted terracotta flower pot to powder and mix that with the resin. But usually to repair Gisela's busted garden ornaments not for boat models, but no reason why not😉 But then that's why I suggested the thicker two part glue not the liquid resin for this 'fix'. Re hardeners: as far as I know all are peroxide based but the concentration is different for the various 'speed' glues. Frankly I would have thought that the faster mix on the inside would have accelerated the outer mix, at least at the interface between the two! BTW: It was never suggested to use the epoxy as filler! The resin was just to soak and harden the balsa wedges and hold everything in place. I'm sure I wrote to the effect; when fully cured THEN use filler on the outside of the hull for the cosmetics. Something lost in interpretation?? Anyway step by step Neil is reaching his goal! 👍 @ Neil; you'll need to get a shift on with the 5 min mix! 5 mins is the hard setting time, working time before it goes too stiff to move is only about 2mins!!!🤔 Cheers Doug 😎
Neville, toilet rolls, problem, especially if you have a cat!!!. 3 screws at the stern, 1 central 2 at the corners under bollards, leaver up with thin screwdriver. 1 each side of the rear deck hatch. 1 each side opposite the cabin rear hold down bollards screw fitted in inboard side of each one. 1 each side rear of the forward hatch. 1 each side forward hatch, again hidden by bollard screw from side. 3 in the bow area. PS all screws in the deck are under small plastic plugs, be gentle with them as you want to put them back to seal the deck again. You should have 14 screws now, the deck is sealed with a gasket, 'O' ring, and what seems like Vaseline, and splits at the rubbing strip just behind the tyre fenders, might need a bit of a pull, going round the hull as you go. Once the deck is off, it is all in front of you. Looking down into the hull, there is a black battery plate, held down with 4 screws, the receiver and the on/off switch. I have kept the plate, but cutaway the dividing 'walls' was needed, for the new receiver etc to fit. It is not big enough for the buggy type battery, so i glued a thin platform on top for the battery to sit on. Battery is held with self adhesive velcro pads to keep it in place. 'Central hull' is the motors and gearbox, follow the long Red and Black wires back to the receiver and cut them as close to the receiver as you can, ready to wire into the ESC, i used a 'chocolate' block, 10ah. Stearn is the servo and steering linkage, nothing needed here just a smear of grease to lubricate. A couple of drops of oil on the ends of the propshaft won't go amiss. 'Battery position', i have mine on the radio plate, but with care and a little trimming you can fit it across the hull, above the propshafts, or with care between the propshafts, fore and aft. Make sure there is a side plate fitted to stop the battery fouling the rudder servo. Hope this is clear, don't force the deck be gentle Mark
Curious that inside worked and outside didn't! Is it contaminated with something or was it a different batch? Whatever, if some is removable with a knife and / or chisel do that. Then work in the stiffer epoxy glue and try to work it in to the first epoxy which is still soft. You might be better of with the slow version with an extra dollop of hardener, this version (the green one in the pic) will give you more time to work the stuff in. Good luck, don't get stuck up 😉
Hi Neil, not enough hardener? Try this: use a thick two part epoxy glue, such as UHU Fast - the 5 minute version so get a shift on! Instead of mixing 1 to 1 mix 1 part glue to 1.5 parts hardener (length of the 'worms'!) Work it well into the holes to mix it with the original epoxy as much as possible. If you're not happy with 5 mins working time use the slow version which gives you about 90 mins fiddlin' time. NOTE: With extra hardener the working times will be shortened so try and get done in about 60 mins. You'll soon notice when you can't fiddle any more - the spatula will start to stick to the workpiece😲 Good luck, Doug 👍
Hi all, on way back from hospital appointment I called into charity shop and spent 25p. On boxed unbuilt model of King George V. When I got home and checked it out, its all there and about 75 % painted. All paints also in the box with glue as well. It looks big enough to convert to a sailable model, has anyone done this model and do you have any tips or information that would help, I'm a plastic kit total beginer. Thanks Colin.