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>> Home > Tags > glue

Richards 48" Swordsman by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 hours ago
Hi Richard, if you have a long rat tail file ca 8mm diameter Or even a long 8mm wood bit or reamer) you can still achieve some adjustment! Worked on my HMS Hotspur; moving the shafts up from about 30° to around 10°. Made a tremendous difference to performance cos it stopped the bow 'digging in'. I made wedges to hold the shaft in the new position and filled in with epoxy glue. Then the usual filling and sanding 😡 Happy wiggling, Doug 😎

Glazing help by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 hours ago
Hi Dave, you got my interest alright! 😉 Have decided to buy a 250ml 'sampler' for starters. Thanks for the short shelf life tip 👍👍 I have a dead bumble bee 🤔 I found in the bedroom. Alas no flowers for him! DHL just told me my Glue 'N Glaze an' stuff should arrive tomorrow😊 Time to go now - bowling training evening! League starts again in 4 weeks. Cheers Doug 😎

Glazing help by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
Hi Doug I used a trader (Steve Tranter- Model Boat Bits) to get the waterjet cutting done. The machine needs programming and I provided a spread sheet with the dimensions and they produced the file and did the cutting. As we were building two large models this was the only way we could get the project finished on time. I have been experimenting with crystal clear resin to produce portholes for a Confiance Class tug I am building. I made portholes out of brass on the lathe then filled the centre with the clear casting resin. I had bubbles in the initial attempt but by using a syringe and flicking the tube the bubbles all go to the top of the syringe and the result is to my liking. I do paint the portholes first. When dry I just glue in the fibreglass hull with epoxy. Mine are near the waterline and whilst cyano would work I don't trust it when wet as experienced with the Olympic. You could drill and fill your portholes with this, just need to place a blanking plate behind each porthole til the clear casting resin sets. I suspect this would be quicker than using acetate. Incidentally I used to cut my acetate portholes with a heated brass tube. I used a piece of stainless rod inside the tube to push the portholes out. Cheers Dave

Glazing help by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
Mornin' Dave, many thanks for the Titanic info. Some good tips 👍 Haven't decided yet whether to make brass T section frames or flat wooden ones! Daft thing with my destroyer is that the portholes were fitted in the original balsa hull. Later I covered it in glass fibre for extra knock resistance so would have to do it all over again😡 The portholes were ~5mm diameter brass into which I had to glue tiny plastic discs. How to go bonkers in stages 🤔 However, I now have a Fleetscale H class hull which has moulded in plating and portholes so I only need to drill them out and fit glazing from within 😊 The old ones I will save for the new superstructure. Lighting will be general for some compartments not individual. The old original ship I think I will leave 'as is' as a momento of my standard of 50 years ago😉 Cheers Doug 😎 PS Water jet cutting is beyond my means but I have been toying with the idea of buying a stencil cutter. The better ones cope with up to 1mm or so. Should be enough for glazing sheet!

Glazing help by glyn44 Petty Officer   Posted: 1 day ago
Hi, Rolfman just google acetate sheet, and take your pick. Loads of of it out there. I use it for aircraft cockpit screens, 99% of which are curved. I have ordered some glue and glaze so will try it soon as. One thing I noticed from your posts is you mention painting the frames. I had no intention of doing that, I was going to leave them untouched, silver( I guess it's stainless) is this a no no.

Glazing help by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Hi Doug The Olympic and Titanic used 5mm and 3mm LEDs in the portholes - all illuminated. The cabins were glazed with overhead projector film, printed with the frame details then individually cut and stuck into each aperture. We had the cabin windows water jet cut so the were all the same size. I used Canopy Glue and the frames had all been acrylic spray painted. All were a close fit and stuck easily. I can appreciate your difficulty with the destroyer, I cheated with my HMS Grenville (1:96), and just cut small holes in the plating and added a dab of black paint to represent. Using the method I described with the frame on the face of the cabin leaves an aperture to glue the window into. A bead of glue will keep the window in place once dry. I find it dries quite clear and rubbery so with sufficient flat surfaces it works very well. Glue'nGlaze is tried and tested if you can get hold of some Dave

Glazing help by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi Gyn, Canopy Glue may not cut the mustard with metal frames. It's only specified for wood, plastics and painted or varnished surfaces. Glue 'n Glaze is also specified for metal. "Glue 'n' Glaze Model AD55 50ml For making crystal clear windows and bonding canopies and most plastics Bonds wood, plastic, metal, painted surfaces. For glazing windows up to 6mm. Use with micro-tips." Don't stick your fingers to the ship😡 Cheers Doug 😎 PS For my little tasks have just ordered Glue 'n Glaze from Krick, the German distributor for Deluxe Materials! So let's see how we go😉 To be continued - Tune in next week, same time, same channel, when 'Once again it's time to play .........'🤔

Glazing help by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi Dave, I don't propose to glue to paint! That's a lesson we learn as children with plastic kits 😉 I clean both sides first. Fitting portholes from inside the destroyer hull would have been impossible. There's also many more of 'em than on your average Fireboat or similar🤔 Patience is, or becomes, a virtue! Doug 😎 PS I know you had quite a few in your Titanic, but bigger than the 1/4" portholes in my destroyer. Did you do them individually or in strips?

Glazing help by glyn44 Petty Officer   Posted: 3 days ago
I've got canopy glue, but sure if it stick metal( the frames ) to the plastic hull and the windows. I'll try it. Thanks for tips so far.

Glazing help by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Plenty of room if you make some tools to hold in place. If you glue to paint it makes a weak joint and will pop out when you try to fit the perspex. I do believe Glyn has already tried that without success. Glue 'n Glaze makes the process much easier. Dave

Glazing help by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi Dave, I can do it that way on the Sea Scout but not so easy from inside with Glyn's ship and lots of small windows in a cramped superstructure. 🤔 In his case I would paint the ship then paint the frames separately, glue in the 'glass', then glue the whole assembly into the ship. Like I did with the portholes on HMS Hotspur. Unfortunately Glue 'n Glaze & Co didn't exist then so some ended up 'steamed up' 🤔 Doug 😎

Glazing help by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Glue (epoxy, Cyano or MEK) the frames to the outside before you paint. This will leave a lip all round the inside of the window aperture. Paint, then apply the windows from the inside using canopy glue. Cheers Dave

Glazing help by AllenA Captain   Posted: 3 days ago
Glue 'n Glaze Glyn. No one will see the mistakes. No matter how much it seeps out from the frame it becomes transparent.

Glazing help by Midlife306 Admiral   Posted: 3 days ago
Hmm, that will be canopy glue, I've got some somewhere I'll dig it out & post a pic Cheers Wayne

Glazing help by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi Glyn, I am about to be faced with exactly the same problem with my Sea Scout renovation! After some cogitating (not painful if you do it slowly in an armchair with a decent single malt😉) I propose to make T section frames to fit the openings. Then glue the window into the frame and glue into the boat from the outside. There is a sort of super glue (Glue & Glaze?) that apparently does not show up white on the plastic window! Let us know how you get on.👍 Cheers Doug 😎