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Model Boats Website Team
October 2018: 5 people September 2018: 13 people August 2018: 5 people July 2018: 8 people June 2018: 8 people May 2018: 7 people April 2018: 24 people March 2018: 13 people February 2018: 8 people January 2018: 9 people
is this the boat you wish to build...…..I have this partly finished model that I doubt I will ever get done....grp hull and cabin with some resin fittings, also have a set of plans for ut, and plenty of photos of the Ramsey Dyce, Aberdeens boat taken recently £400.00p ono if you'd like a head start,
[Score: 5/10] 28"/3600g Wellard Capable of 1mph Single Propellor (4 Blade 35mm) Direct Drive Powered by Lead Acid (6v) Batteries - Comments: I decided to build a canal/river maintenance barge and had a Thames lighter grp hull as a starter. This was too long so I took a chunk out of the middle and joined the two halves. The decks, hold, cabin and the rest was very much scratchbuilt. There is a lot about this model that would make either the purist or the local H&S man cringe but it was fun and looks great on a shelf in the workroom or even better on the odd trip to the lake. The Hiab crane although in wrong place I think really finishes off the model well the crane and the loo paper haha. Hope someone out there likes it. Regards
Last I saw t, he showed it working. Alas he has been stricken with Alzheimers in the last few months. I was asked not to go round as his wife had had a fall and it was all rather awkward round there. So suddenly a good old friend (he's 84) has been taken from me. What will happen to all his stuff, I dread to think. There are over 50 flyable aircraft in sheds, caravans and his large loft, even some boats. He gave me a GRP hull of the Bloodhound and a freelance, very early GRP cruiser hull. I shall attempt to finish them in his memory, because it's like he's died. That E.D. RC set should be in a museum, but there ain't no model museums. Martin
[Score: 5/10] 53" Luna 50 - Comments: 1/12th scale model of a Luna 50 for the boss of the company who invented Cosworth's casting methods. Started with a GRP hull and finished everything else. Delivered to a friend's garden in Devon, from whence the owner collected model in a freight frame in his helicopter!
Hi Dave, as Arron is the name on the facebook chat heading I assumed, reasonably, that he is the one to talk to. It's perfectly possible to see faults in a product without actually having it in one's hand. I can see that the light reflections down the side show the sides to be not fairly curved. Years in the car design/prototyping game have ensured that (I, too, am a tool/patternmaker of many years experience, from 1/500th city models to full size Bugatti design models). I have a good eye and both are telling me that hull in the picture I was sent isn't top drawer. The top edge of the hull is very woolly, not smoothly trimmed, but the main objection is that it's not clinker and that is a major problem for a wherry, considering only Albion was carvel. With a clinker model we could have a selection of different craft. With carvel, every model would be Albion, a little tedious at the pondside, I'm sure you would agree. Perhaps you could produce a pattern by gluing planks on to the basic GRP structure? Then re-mould. To counter the balance of such a big sail in a blow you will also need a fin keel, but that's down to the builder really, though your experiments with waterline would be useful for buyers of the hull as to weights required, etc. I don't wish to pee on your bonfire, but with a history of so many very good (and obviously so) GRP hulls on the market, we have come to expect a bang-on quality from the word go. Of course, any company new or old, who are prepared to listen to criticism and act on it are more than welcomed. Perhaps some different photos of the hull would satisfy us as to its shape and moulding quality? If it were a lot better than that one photo shows, I would be prepared to buy one still and then glue suitable planks to it to get my clinker model if that proves possible. I can't really say fairer than that. Cheers, Martin
Arron, the first thing to do is make the pattern a clinker construction. Your website showed that you were using CAD to develop plank shapes. I have no idea if that's possible, but if you can do CAD and it is possible why is the model carvel? Secondly the sides show a great deal of wobbliness to the shape. What car designers would describe as "flabbiness". There is no strength to the form. It goes in and out. Maybe the layup is not thick enough in that area. The side view isn't bad, if a little indistinct. Maybe in the trimming, but then a well laid up hull will trim much better. There should be a sheer line moulded in to which the deck level can be trimmed. I'm sure anyone wanting a model of Albion will be delighted to find a GRP hull at last, but for a wider audience you would have been better off taking a little longer and making a clinker version. Wherries were so varied in length/tonnage that a clinker model could cover as many as 3 popular scales at the extremes. BTW, I didn't say 3D was all you did, only that as a young guy it was very likely 3d printed since you will have learned the necessary CAD. I wish my son could do the same as he has 3 printers already, but can only use free files. If I could do CAD, I would be dangerous Cheers, Martin
Hi Doug, 36" even at 1/350 scale. Ye Gods, they really were big devils, eh? I always thought Hood was a very attractive ship. My loft was going to be my slot track home, then I went to stand up...DoH! not even crouch room, never mind head room, so storage it is. My Sea Urchin, Veron Veronica yacht, vintage Marblehead and Dorada are all up there. There is so much insulation up there that you can't see where the joists are when poking about. But I'm lucky to have a 6x6 foot brick shed with a Fort Knox type door, so models can also go up in the rafters of that too. Vanity on the side bench, currently. That's also where the bandsaw lives, the table saw and where silver soldering happens. Just out of interest, I've noticed there's a lot of photo-etch detail for 1/350 scale. Do you use that? I'd be interested to see your Hood when it's done. Cheers, Martin
Evenin' Martin, Seem to remember we had this discussion about a year ago, when I mentioned that my warships are all around 4 to 5 feet! 😉 A new challenge is to motorise 1/350 versions of Hood, Ark Royal and Prince of Wales. They come out at about 28" to 36". Big enuff I reckon. I envy you your loft 😉 All the best, Doug 😎 PS: thanks for the tip about old credits cards for filler 👍 I just used an otherwise now useless Air Berlin Top Bonus 😭 to apply filler to the Danish Fish Cutter I am renovating and converting from static to RC. Works great 😊 I plan to use the Taycol Target I modified last year to go both forward and astern under RC.
I find most miniaturisation fascinating, but boats don't go on scale water and the bobbing about makes my lip curl. Also you're da man for lecktrickery which doesn't appeal to me one bit. I like the larger scales for detail. 30-40 inch hulls is OK for me. I can stack those in the shed or the loft. M
Doug, I'm only looking at the RAF boats. As you know I don't do military (offensive military), so I wouldn't be looking at the HMS type of thing and even if I was, I'm not a fan of tiddler versions of capital ships. Too corkish on the water for my liking. So 1/24th is a minimum scale for working models for me. Of course 35th or even 72nd is fine for the big stuff, if that's what he does, but I was only looking for hard chinery. Cheers, Martin
What's static about 1/72 or 1/35??? Or even 1/128 or smaller? H class destroyer & Type IIA U-Boat 1/72, PTB 1/35, Belfast & Graf Spee 1/128. 1/350 HMS Hood and Prince of Wales on the stocks. Motor, ESC, servo and RX fit packages already prepared. Cheers, Doug😎 'Nichts ist unmöglich' 😁