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>> Home > Tags > mabuchi

mabuchi
mabuchi
Fast Patrol Launch by wunwinglo Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 18 days ago
This Fast Patrol Launch was originally built by me and my father in'62/3 It was my entry into marine modelling. Initially free-running with a tiny old school blue-cased Mabuchi, it was never 'fast' -as a result it was recomisioned several times over the years but remained dull. In 2013, it was refitted yet again but this time she got a nice potent brushless and a full array of lights. Now she goes very well here at the Oxford lake.

How do I find out the voltoge of my motor without it burning out by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Chris I know of no easy way for you to determine the voltage. However motors do have a coil resistance value measured across the terminals. Also if you can see the coil windings a thick wire usually indicates a motor designed for high speed and current. A thinner wire may produce a motor with lower speed and less current and more tork. If you check the Graupner and look at the windings this may help you identify the other two. In my experience it's usually too low a voltage that's the problem resulting in slow revs and little if any tork. At the other end of the scale too high a voltage will result in very high revs and lots of sparks from the brushes. In this case if you continue to apply the volts you will damage the motor. Many electric drills were powered by motors rated at 9v and did indeed have an impeller cooling fan. That said Mabuchi and Johnson produced a vast range of motors all looking similar on the outside but wired very differently inside depending on the ultimate use. I suggest you try with progressively higher voltages and assess which is best for the two unknowns. Finally most motors are designed to work over a range of voltages so I usually measure both the upper and lower values so I can select the right motor for a particular model.

Re Sea Rover by Wingcoax by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Mine were all Ever-ready (which they weren't🤔) and I made a simple balsa battery box for them, also with brass strips for contacts. Hotspur's motors were also the rattly 6-12V Mabuchis. Seemed to me then that they made ALL e-motors! 😎

SEA ROVER by Wingcoax Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
[Score: 5/10] 30" SEA ROVER Capable of 3mph and a runtime of 20mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 30mm) Direct Drive to a Mabuchi (3 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (6v) 2Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through N/A (5Amps) ESC - Comments: Model was Sea Rover, built about 50 years ago with my father on the living room floor. Power was a Mabuchi 6/12 volt running on two PJ996 lantern batteries or two 4.5v bell batteries wired in series. Well before R/C. Finally gave ot aay to neighbours son and switched to aircraft for 40 years. Now living in Portugal and glow fuel hard to get so changing back to water craft.

What motor have I got? by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Chris They are all based on 550 motors made by Mabuchi or Johnson. They were GP motors available in different configurations for specific purposes. You can look on data tables to find the exact specs if the motors still have visible markings. The Graupner is designed to run on 8.4volts but the motors can be wound to run on different voltages. I suspect the one with the fan is taken from an electric drill. They used to be popular with the fly boys pre brushless so they are available in large quantities at cheap prices. I suggest you run them with an ammeter connected to a 8.4 (approx) battery and see what current they draw. High current would be good for a fast runaround for 10 mins or so, low current will have more tork and be suitable for a scale cabin cruiser/tug etc. If you have two that draw roughly the same current at the same volts they might be suitable in a twin prop, provided they both rotate at the same speed. Dave

Pinkie Pie by Krampus Captain   Posted: 5 months ago
Model kit made on or about 1969 by defunct German firm Robbe based upon Chris Craft Roamer motor yachts of the era. Hull appears to be inspired on 1950s Chris Craft Constellation series. Model tried to emulate a 46 feet version. I got this one half-built and adapted as a gift for my child inspired in the "My Little Pony" characters. Approx. 1/20 scale. Authentic Chris Craft Roamer 46 measured 46 x 15 feet. It runs with a 4-bladed 40mm metal propeller, 320A 7.2V-16V ESC 30A constant, a NiMH 9.6v battery, and a Mabuchi 540 Motor.

Sea Hornet by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
That's exactly how my HMS Hotspur destroyer started! 👍 Free running with two rattly Mabuchis and a flat 4.5V dry cell battery! Granny and Grandad took pity and bought me a 6V 'Lantern' battery! Progress 😊 The Sea Scout my Dad built (which I'm now renovating) was very modern .. Taycol Target and 6V wet accumulator! And yes, that kit cost 35 bob, substantial chunk of a week's wages! Oh happy days .. Or ... !? Both had to wait another 20 years until I could afford RC, an Irvine / Sanwa Conquest FM6, sitting on my desk now (wonder where the antenna went?), it still works! 35Mhz!! Well what did I know?? 🤔 Anyway, my excuse is I originally bought it for the little Wren biplane I had built for my daughter, a German kit called Zaunkönig in German - literally 'Fence King'. Still have the plane, thinking of converting it from glow-plug to brushless. Micro servos and LiPos already purchased 😉 DHL just promised me that tomorrow the rest of the bits for the Sea Scout refit will arrive, including Royal Blue paint. 😊 So much to do - so little time 🤔 Happy building and happier sailing. Cheers Doug 😎

Couplings by Westquay Captain   Posted: 6 months ago
Isn't it funny how I used my Crash Tender 53 years ago with 27 meg R/C and never ever had any interference problems. Now the fashion victims all want those ugly little cans from Mabuchi or brushless, suddenly the lovely old Taycols are unusable. Rubbish. If modern R/C is that fussy we haven't moved on at all. Maybe because I have an unbroken link to the Taycol and the Crash Tender I see no reason to just give in and use modern stuff I detest. I have never been a fashion victim and I am not starting now. I think this and any other model boats forum and I have reached the limits to our mutual usefulness. I'm off to do things my way. Where I've had help, thanks. Otherwise?............ Martin

Using old motors by Westquay Captain   Posted: 7 months ago
Hi Doug, I have a Supermarine Special, a Double Special, 2 Targets, a Meteor and a Standard. Also a Basset-Lowke, an SEL, a Frog Revmaster, a Frog "red bomb, and a Multum, not to mention Marxes, Mabuchis and Kakos, loads of them! In fact I'll use one of the old but unused blue Mabuchis for my sail winch idea...threaded rod, microswitches for one way and tother, all mounted on a stick of ally. I also have over 50 open framed slot car motors from the golden age of model car racing. So, plenty to choose from! The Supermarine (when I find it again) is out of and will go back into my 53 year old Crash Tender, which I really must finish. I had it new when I was 11. The Double Special is an an Aerokits MTB. Martin

glass cloth or tissue? by Westquay Captain   Posted: 7 months ago
Took me a while to work out what a GirlFriend minehunter was! I used to have zinc sacrificial anodes on my steel narrowboat. We noticed whe we had our wooden historic boat out that many steel boats were losing their zinc in as little as two years. Yet my old boat had them fitted new when I had it out for a blacking as it had NEVER had any and hadn't suffered at all! Free running, cheap Mabuchis, Cycle battery, Oh those were the days indeed, aber veiieicht so!! My wee Sea Urchin still has it's 58 year old Kako and original shaft and tin prop. I just can't find any flat bell batteries any more! Martin

glass cloth or tissue? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
Yep, it can generate a lot of heat if you overdo it ;-/ Copper foil below the waterline will look great 👍 Your boat had more luck than a GF mine-hunter I once worked on. That put a copper plate on the keel to act as a counter balance for the comms antennas, which we fitted. Before it came to sea trials we noticed the comms performance on the HF antennas had deteriorated. The yard sent divers down and found that the copper plate looked like Chantilly Lace after only a few months 🤔 Maybe I'll start a Blog about my destroyer - "HMS Hotspur - A Never Ending Story" - it started 50 years ago and the ship has undergone many Life Extension Programmes since. Here a couple of pics (Box Brownie 127!) of the maiden voyage , ca 1965-66, in Radnor Park, Folkestone, Kent. Free-running on 2 cheap Mabuchis and a 4.5V cycle lamp battery! Those were the days, oder vielleicht nicht 😉

44 by Inkoust Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 months ago
[Score: 8/10] 14"/500g 44 Capable of 10mph and a runtime of 65mins Triple Propellors (3 Blade 15mm) Direct Drive to a Mabushi (3 Blade) Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 2Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Turnigy (5Amps) ESC - Comments: The construction of two engines of ABS, 180, Mabuchi. Controlled by the rudder back and forth,

Sailing a straight line by Trillium Commander   Posted: 1 year ago
Hi Mark, I'll give that a try. I have a question for the experts. Are the bronze bearings in the Mabuchi motors plain bronze, or a sintered bronze with a lubricant such as graphite or PTFE embedded in them? The reason I ask is that information I found on the Mabuchi website suggests suitable applications for these motors are automotive, inkjet and laser printers, and massagers. These are devices which are unlikely to have any kind of follow-up intermittent lubrication.

Sailing a straight line by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 year ago
Hi Roy I do believe your problem could be solved with prop shafts extending from both ends. I am not familiar with the motors but expect they are mabuchi or similar rebadged. The Electronize site has a section on motors http://electronize.net/motors.htm . This gives the expected current for different size props at various voltages. The stall current at 12v is given as 2.6amps for the 365-14. Can you measure the current with your props? If one motor is drawing higher current this may indicate an internal fault. I am not a fan of 360 size motors as they can be very greedy current wise and have a tendency to overheat resulting in deteriorating performance in a very short time. I had two in a Coast Guard cutter but now have two brushless which are much more powerful and reliable as well as running for much longer. Not that I am suggesting such for your model ferry. My personal preference for a scale model is a"555" type motor. It is a high tork low current motor that works very well in low speed models and allows scale size props to be fitted. I use three in my 1:96 scale RMS Olympic and have several smaller scale models that also use a single motor. Regarding your Tamiya connectors they can after some use become unreliable especially if high currents are involved. You can static test any connection by using a multimeter on the lowest Ohm range. There should be no resistance recorded if the joint/connection is good. I doubt if this is a problem as you are feeding all from a single battery (or pair). Dave

electrics selection by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 years ago
HI Gary, Built a similar model last year to 1:20 scale, used: 2 x MABUCHI RS 555PH-3255 12V 5500 rpm DC Motors. 2 x Viper 15 "plug & play" ESCs 2 x 40 m/m handed propellers- direct drive. Driven by 2 x 6V SLA (sealed lead acid) cells, connected in series. Performance seems quite realistic, although am thinking of going to a LIPO style battery pack to reduce weight. Speed is fine, but the model tends to sit a little low. Rowen