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Hi Pete, Basically yes. There are some other tricks with twin screws, not least engine assistance using a twin ESC with rudder mixer. Also the screw rotation makes a slight difference, and the rudders are usually slightly offset from the shafts, depending on the screw rotation. Are yours turning outwards or inwards? Referred to the top of the screw looking from aft while going forward. Cheers, Doug
I recently tried 2 ESC(s) into one battery connection then into 2 channels of the radio. Received wisdom said that one of the red leads to the radio should be disconnected. This I tried and one ESC ceased to function. So to prevent unwanted feeding on the positive lead from one ESC to another I fitted a diode to each of the ESCs. If you were to do the same I think your setup would work. However if your TX has mixing capability then why not use that ability to mix rudder with the 2 outboard motors so you have the added steering of the 2 outer motors? Any how fit the diodes please this should prevent the ESCs damaging each other its a simple job https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20x-1N4007-rectifier-diodes-DO41-... 20 diodes for £1 the silver band is positive so goes towards receiver plug.
Ok... Currently trying to build a Itaieri Schnellboot, ...but am questioning if what little I think I know to be correct/ workable... I have amassed the following : 3- Hobbyking ST3007 1100KV brushless motors each direct drive to 32mm plastic props.... (2 right hand drive and 1 left hand drive props... swapped over leads on on motor to get it to run as yet untested the left hand prop) 3- Turnigy nano tech 3s 3000mh 25-50C Lipo ( Have got a balance charger and board , flame proof charge bag , battery voltage check/ alarm units, and will check and charge them await the only local help I have in RC / lips battery a helicopter flyer who has no experience with RC boats ) I just read the post on WTail mixer and wonder if I need that or if my current unkowning idea to just connect all 3 ESC ‘s together to one channel on the radio , again was give Eflite Blade SR HP6DSM 2.4GHz to try out ,Will this unit work or do I need something else , currently will/ can use all 6 channels but would / could use more if I had them ... last time I had anything to do with RC was a a kid/ teen and back then you had ground radios and flight radios and the two should not be mixed .. Ok please advise , how far off am I or am I still within range of keeping it simple ? Thanks All Bill
Hi TJ, Answer to both questions is NO! 1 Connecting all the ESC switches together is like leaving all three of the red wires in the RX leads connected. If you mean a main power switch for the ESCs (not the little slide switch attached to the ESC) then consider that the switch would have to cope with a current of 3 times the max current rating of the ESC!!! For example; for 30A ESCs that would be 90A 😲 pretty big switch! 2 The object of the mixer is to control the ESCs of the two outer motors depending on the rudder setting, not to replace them somehow. If you mean two of the little slide switches being made redundant; again NO! They are there to switch on the ESC's internal circuitry, incl. BEC, without it they won't woik 🤔 Cheers, Doug 😎
Hi all , question, can 3 esc,s be connected on to one switch or do you need an another piece of electronics to switch all the esc,s with one switch or would two of the be made redundant when using the W-Tail mixer.
Your more than welcome TJ. Re paragraphs etc; was a well meant 'Word to the Wise', just to make your interesting contributions easier to read. 😉 Keep up the good work👍 Which configuration did you decide on in the end? On my single screw boats, like my Sea Scout, I tend to just use the BEC from the ESC and no separate RX battery. On my multi screw ships, the majority actually, from two to four screws (PTB to HMS Belfast cruiser) I always use a separate RX battery. On the basis that I reckon that the drive battery already has enough to do 😉 So I use 4.8 or 6V NiMh batteries of around 1500 to 2000mAh. Always put a switch between the batt and the RX. Also a switch and a fuse, approx 5A lower than the ESC max current rating, between the drive battery and the ESC(s). All the best, Doug 😎
Hi all and thank you for your comments, and thanks to Doug, have read and understood order is placed and looking forward to setting it up as advised, and I will try to remember to use paragraph's or smaller chapters.👍
Hi TJ, RE: RX battery. Any 4 or 5 cell (4.8 or 6V) NiMh of 1000mAh up will do. Use the biggest one you can without upsetting the boat's trim or reducing it's performance / planing etc. BUT: don't forget to disconnect the red wires between your ESCs and RX to disconnect the BECs in the mTroniks speed controllers!!! Also check that your RX and mixer module etc can handle 6V+! If not use the 4 cell pack. A fully charged NiMh will be significantly above 6V. Some modules; e.g. Action Electronics / Component Shop don't like that 😡 Alternatives are, esp if you need to save weight, 1 use ONE of the red BEC leads from ESC to RX, e.g. the centre one, and disconnect the other two, 2 Use a separate 5V UBEC module to syphon power off the drive battery for the RX, AND disconnect all three red BEC wires from the ESCs. Cheers, Doug 😎
Hi Doug I am using 3 mtroniks viper marine 15 ESC,s and 3 MFA RE-380-Pole DC Motors all have been tested singularly at low speed and connected to 4mm propeller shafts and 30mm propellers and all went well