Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info
Guest
Login Below
Join Us On Social Media!
   
Get The Model Boats App!
Apple App Store
Android app on Google Play


Help Support This Website
£
or enter custom amount

(Non Contributor)

Help support this free
website and donate.



£285 a year is needed to keep the website and apps online. Please consider donating £5 or more to help towards these fees.
All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

Many thanks for your kind support.

Model Boats Website Team


Donation History
August 2017: 7 people
July 2017: 16 people
June 2017: 8 people
May 2017: 8 people
April 2017: 23 people
March 2017: 9 people
February 2017: 12 people
January 2017: 17 people


Unique Visitors This Month

Website Members

Terms and Conditions
Privacy Policy
Advertising
Contact


Model Boats Website
Active Users (8)
Login or Register
To Remove This Ad

Login or Register
To Remove This Ad
>> Home > Tags > mixer

mixer
action mixer
mixer
Tank Steering by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi Dave, you won't find a Conrad anything anywhere else but on the Conrad (or Amazon/Ebay) sites! But if you look for the Turnigy HT-6 you will find it on HobbyKing, it's the same damn thing for nearly half the Conrad price. See pics. Pure badge 'engineering'! Also just bought some Absima LiPos 2s 4000mAh from Conrad, €40 each. Today I found out that Absima is in Nürnberg (Nuremberg) just up the road from here, same batt €25 😡😭 Conrad will shortly be getting an appropriate mail from me! NO more Reely stuff for me!! I found the HT-6 very easy to set up, amazing what they pack into a $45 set these days. My Spektrum cost 12 times that a few years ago and doesn't do an awful lot more and is more complex to set up 🤔 Won't mess with mixer boards or two stick motor control just yet. Can use the mixer functions in the TX 😊 Have tested the HT-6 with various ESCs; e.g. Graupner Navy VR30 and Mtroniks Viper Micro10, no problems. When the new 2s LiPos are charged the next test will be with a Turnigy brushless ESCs and the BL I want to put in the Sea Scout. Progress is slow but sure. Why do I get on faster with electronics than with shipbuilding!!?? 😉 You're right; Mode 1 or 2 (3 and 4 are also available!) don't matter much. With this set you can assign any control element stick, switch, or pot to any channel (i.e. RX output) you want, and very simply - not like the Spektrum🤔. Like it.👍 I also like having the two pots available for proportional control; gun turrets, cranes, monitors .... 👍 And still switches left over for lights, sound .... Very versatile 👍👍 Only irritation is it won't go into operational mode until all switches are forward and the throttle (left stick) is pulled right back - motor off for an aircraft - safety feature. Minor irritation for a boater but pull the stick back and all is OK and you can then operate normally. Used the spring removal method on my old Graupner 40Meg MC-10. That box was a pain to set up as well🤔 I could programme the radio ATE for the old Home Office Type Approval lab faster, but then - I wrote the software 😉 Cheers Doug 😎

Tank Steering by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi Doug Enjoying your new toy. Not sure that Mode 2 or 1 for that matter has much relevance if you are using two sticks to control your ESCs. The gimbal posted by Canabus looks like the Taranis stick with an additional rotary control at the tip. Most gimbals use a spring to effect self centering and removing said spring disables this feature. One of the reasons I use the Taranis is to allow me to mix at the tx avoiding lots of complicated wiring and expensive mixer boards on the vessel. I did find the Conrad Reely HT-6 but not on the Hobbyking site. Can you post a pic please? Dave

Tank Steering by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi Wayne, Yep! Uses two sticks instead of just one! For independent control of two motors; port / starboard. Or more e.g. four screw carrier model; Two each side! Expensive on ESCs and the wiring can get complicated but very manoeuvrable. Just like a tank driver has independent control of his tracks. I think I will experiment more with mixer boards to support the rudder on my twin, triple and four screw monsters 😉 Cheers Doug 😎 PS where have you incarcerated poor Donald?? 🤔 😭

The electrics, drive & radio by robhenry Seaman   Posted: 1 month ago
I am very impressed with your superb work on this kit. Some years ago I provided a lot of data on my two boats to Mike together with Original Vosper data. I am pleased that his kits are doing well. [ I have an Aerokits 46" boat and a much newer 46" GRP hulled boat. Both have twin drive trains and mixers. ] I am surprised that you have not fitted false keels and twin props/drive trains to your boat as the Vosper boats had. ? Apart from good planing performance both of my boats can turn in their own length as the original 93 / 94 boats could do. I hope your boat looks as good on the water as your pics so far suggest.

Best Tx systems for boats by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi All, don't think that that is quite what Nick meant! Most TX/RX sets nowadays are full of tricks and mixers for the fly boys; first setup question: 'Fixed wing or rotary?' for example! So - Nick: essentially it doesn't matter what you use (except the 35MHz rule of course!) but modifying all the aircraft mixer routines to suit boats is not for the faint hearted or novice. Therefore for your purposes I would recommend a relatively simple 2 to 4 channel set intended for trucks and cars. That gives you the basic control functions, including motor reverse, plus possibility to control a few specials, lighting or sound (horns) for instance. 2.4GHz is the future, but not without it's own pitfalls, as you've already discovered 🤔 I still use my old MC-10 40MHz set; - a) Cos it still works 👍😉 b) It's quick to set up for trials of a new boat or function, 👍 c) the more people move to 2.4GHz the less chance I have of getting any interference! 👍😊 (I have several TX/RX crystal sets anyway 😊 Bought up anything I could find locally the last few years) d) One of my models is a submarine! e) It can also store the setup configuration for 20 models. 👍 f) has no binding rigmarole. 👍👍 Cheers and very happy modelling / sailing, Doug 😎

12 volt motors to esc,s by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Doug Know it well and used to build my own from a published circuit using now discontinued chip. Misleading for a dual set up possibly. If there is no switch provided the two switch wires can confuse some, like my friend. His wouldn't work with the BEC disconnected. It was a dual set up connected to an Action mixer. Has to use a separate rx battery to set up the rx before the ESC. It's 2.4 and takes longer than the ESC so doesn't provide the correct mid point for the ESC to find. By switching rx on first all is OK. Both ESCs have the red lead disconnected so are dead as are the motors until the switch is thrown. There is built in suppression in the BEC circuit which is not enabled in one ESC with your set up. On switch on the motor runs for half a second and I assume takes a big chunk of current. Using the switch gives better control and allows for each motor to switch on one at a time. If one set of wires are shorted and both ESCs wired thro a Y lead both motors will arm at the same time and might produce some unpredictable results. I agree its good to see Sonar is up and running and happy. Dave

12 volt motors to esc,s by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Doug I do believe the FR15 uses the BEC to provide a 4.2v supply to the PIC chip. If you don't switch on the ESC it won't work. Just seen Sonars post so seems all is OK Dave

12 volt motors to esc,s by none Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
I have now just arrived two FR15 Series Microprocessor Speed Controllers. with BEC ? So I had in the past had a mixer and distribution board . But now decided just to omit the bow thruster and only wire in TWO motors.. @ 12 volts each.. So with 2 x 12 volt motors 1 x 12 volt lead sealed battery. 2 x esc,s 1 x reciver And a single rudder servo. and two y joiners for the servo. and the paperwork that came with the esc,s Being totally thick is there a drawing somewhere I can download So as to wire this in ? Also each esc has wires for a bec ? No idea where they go

RSS Sovereignty P 72 by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Steve, Then Go For It👍 Although I can fully understand the nervousness! I bought a DX6 set last year and plan to use the mixer function on my destroyer. Any tips on setting this up would be most welcome. Cheers from Munich 😎

RSS Sovereignty P 72 by cormorant Admiral   Posted: 3 months ago
Ok, thanks. Yes, the original did have two shafts and I have succesfully used my Dx6i radio mixer on other models. I guess I'm just nervous about messing up a beautifully built hull by drilling holes in it. Steve

Tamco Tx/Rx by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Nick The MFA/Como drills site lists the motor plus a stall current of 11.2amps at 7.2volts max. I guess you are confirming neither Tx/Rx combination is working. You have mentioned a new handset, is that a new Tx/Rx? Hopefully when it arrives you will have a working radio link. I have used single ESC's with two motors wired in parallel and it will work. Problem is one motor can run faster than the other due to variations within the manufacturing specs. If you can afford two ESC's you will avoid this. You can run from one channel using a Y connector lead as Doug has said. With two ESCs you can run each from a separate battery. If both have BEC outputs you need to disconnect the red lead on at least one ESC and both if you are using a separate Rx battery as Doug has already explained. There are mixer units available which link the motors to the rudder setting to help with steering but you do need two ESC's. If you are an ex flier like myself you can also use two sticks on the TX and control each motor independently. I do hope you manage to get your model working and on the water soon Dave

HMS Erebus by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Mornin' Gdaynorm Question is then what did change!? Have you made any mods to the boat or had any kind of accident with it before this phenomenon appeared ? One forward / one reverse will only work if you either use one stick for each motor (2 RX ports) or use a mixer coupled to the rudder. Some captains also use micro switches on the rudder servo to reverse one engine at full rudder. For high currents change-over relays are needed. Wiring gets complicated! 🤔 Happy experimenting. Cheers Doug 😎

Speed controls by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Seems like we have two case here! Surely if Frank gets forward motion with stick back and vice versa he just needs to reverse the servo at the TX? I had the same problem with my old Graupner MC-10 40Meg set. If he's using a 2.4 Gig set it might be related to which mode he is using, normally 'out of the Box' set up is for fliers with mixer settings we don't need in boats. With Grandpa; don't know as he hasn't described the reactions to stick forward or stick back. My money is still on TX set-up. 😎

Small plastic joinery glue by Hybrid Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 5 months ago
Yes it's in a a small double sided by side tube with a long mixer nozzle u should have a gun to push it out but we just use 2 round dowels u should be able to get it on eBay to

Feathering set up by marlina2 Petty Officer   Posted: 6 months ago
I am so pleased to see this blog as I am also in the midst of building my own "forcefull". Your build is much further advanced than mine so hopefully I may be able to pick your brain in future about the many problems that I am bound to encounter. Your drive system looks much like mine apart from I am using 2 x 540's low noise motors with built in 16:1 gearbox and the final drive being belt drive reduction giving me a maximum no load rpm of 230 on the paddle rims. I am using an action Electronics dual mixer & ESC's in tank steer mode for speed control. I don't know how it will handle exactly in this mode but I do have the option of a conventional mixer mode with a rudder servo. At the moment my paddles are not feathering, this is just for getting in the water quicker and will be replaced in time when I can access to a lathe to make the ecentrics