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Thanks Mark, I'm blessed with a wife who used to work in the automotive paint trade as a colour matcher, mixer, so she always helps me with my painting problems. But by far the most important thing to remember is preparation is key to all work. Cheers Colin.
Doug Whilst I agree the sound systems you have found are excellent, am I right in thinking they are designed for the model truck market? I am sure they can be modified. There are circuits in Practical Electronics and I am just waiting for someone else to produce a working design smaller than a large mobile phone. The best steam sound unit I found for my tugs of the IMARA era came from Technobots, coupled to a 20Watt amp and 8" speaker. Sadly they no longer supply the sound unit, but there are other suppliers. If I recall one of our members was involved and I suggest you visit http://www.forge-electronics.co.uk/index.php. If you are using two ESCs you really need two units but one amp and speaker would be OK You did suggest similar using pre-amp mixer, which would allow mixing of other sounds. On my lake you can hear this system from the middle of the lake 50 yds+ so I have an on/off switch if it causes nuisance!?!
What I don't like about the 'Noisy Thing' is that apparently the engine sound stops for as long as you use any other sound; e.g. fog horn, ship's bell etc, so called 'General Sounds' in the Action description, if you use it in so called 'Throttle Mode', i.e. engine sound coupled to speed. In that case you may as well use a Switch module to connect the 'General Sounds' on separate modules to an amplifier with mixer inputs. The sound modules I found here (Germany) don't have this disadvantage. They have at least two output channels enabling a minimum of two simultaneous sounds. Specific sounds can also be coupled to switched outputs; e.g. to move cranes, gun turrets, or switch lights etc whenever that corresponding sound is actuated. Specific sequences of various sounds can be pre-programmed and initiated with one command using only one sound channel. Attached are extracts from the manual of a module from Neuhaus Electronics showing how to synchronise real engine sounds to the throttle. Needs a bit of PC work but no rocket science 😉 and the sounds are then linked to the throttle stick position. Send me a PM and I can send you details including source and operating manual. The Graupner module is very similar but I haven't experimented with it yet. Cheers Doug 😎
Hi Chris, glad to have helped, having already been down that road and learning the hard way! 😉 Actually Raboesch is a Dutch company. Not quite Double Dutch but in the case of 'Left - Right' props close to 🤔 Your boat: Rother class, OK so it's a slow (10knots) displacement hull. With bilge keels which make turning more difficult. I would probably use two brushed motors cos you don't need the Oomph of brushless. With brushed you can then use the Action Electronics Dual ESC and rudder mixer, P94Lite. From Component Shop. See pic. https://www.componentshop.co.uk/action-electronics/esc.html Good for 10A continuous to each motor - brushed ONLY! I'm about to fit one to my 5 foot Graf Spee. With the hull form of the Rother only sea trials will confirm which is best outward or inward. have fun with the build and trials, looking forward to updates / pics / vids 👍 BTW: will yours also be Self Righting??? 😉 Cheers Doug 😎
Built one of these a few years ago. Great for tug towing and rescue work. Had an Action mixer at one time and with two separate 6v batteries worked great. I could literally spin in the spot. Moved to twin motor control as I used to fly model planes and was used to using all four stick axis. Not sure a bow thruster will work well on this model as it is so manouverable. Makes into a nice realistic model and I wish I had kept mine. If I were to make another I would make a better seal of the rear deck, it leaks like mad in it's designed fit. I eventually made a raised coaming round the opening. Coming along nicely.
Hello Mark. I was just not aware of the choices and followed the 'usual routine'.......... When space is such a consideration, I expected to see more of this type of approach. Enjoying the journey anyway. Thanks for your help. Cheers. NPJ
NJP. you can use the mini blade fuses, no problem, the difference is price, standard fuses are about half the price if mini's. Apart from your mounted fuse holders, why not just use crimp spade connectors??? get the right size for the blades no need for a holder or mounting Mark
Thank you for your reply. Yes Tom, these are just as you described. What I saw and did not realise were available are the same structure but smaller and I thought that would help. However, there may be a good reason why they are not used here. So I thought this is the place to ask! All the best. NPJ
Somewhere RN Doug referred to fuse ratings and I bought more. having found they are hard to change Mark told me about the tool that is used. In the buying of these things and looking for more space on board, I noticed 'mini blade fuses' are available. Why are we not using these.......................? NPJ
thanks everybody for the info .I will get 2 -6 volt batteries and fit them in the hull so that Ican work out the necessary extra ballast. I never thought of using a mixerbut will probably do this as well but nearer to when the build is complete .I am on with the drawings now scaling them from pictures /photos on the internet. I will then produce the templates -make the bits in cardboard then when they look ok finally out of plastic sheet .I have had one or two comments doubting my ability but as the bionic man said 'we have the technology we will rebuild it'
Regarding the batteries, I suspect it was 2 x 6V ?Ahr gel cells. One for each motor. 2 x ESC and possibly the Robbe mixer. I agree with Jarvo it could have been 12v from 2 x 6v in series but it was common to use 6v during this period. Could be the space was for the ESC.
So following a long away week-end of Astronomy, now trying to get a bit further before going away for a couple of days. As I start to wire up the power circuit I realise how important it is to think things through first! Made up the link from the Battery to a ‘choc block’ distribution point which for space reasons is under the ‘control’ platform which will fill the bow area. (Pic 1) The fuse boards were obtained from Component – shop.co.uk Ltd in Bangor which is a good source of all sorts of electrical bits for us and is in Wales! (Pic2) The Dual Esc/Mixer, from the same place, a P94 9Lite), I have secured with Velcro (Pic 3) and I hope to keep the battery on top of this with a little air gap. It is at this point that I really came to appreciate the space limitations (Pic 4) and I do not have the motors wired in yet which will have fuse boards on the ‘platform’. (Pic 5). Next time hope to wire in Motors and Fuse Boards, Sound Generator and Receiver. Then see how it sits in the bath.....! NPJ