Hi Peter, wow 24 ltr tank 😲 mine's only about 10max I think. Yep regulator and oil / water strippers are indispensable for best results 👍 Sounds like you have a nice setup there. Mine is the Revell Master Class with all the trimmings so sort of semi-pro 😉 I also have two 'guns' (one single action and one double action) for large and small quantities and a variety of needles and jets from fine line (without the guts to test it yet😁) to large areas like hulls. If you go to a DIY place that the pros also go to (Building Supplies?) you should find acrylics in half and 1ltr cans. For my 'grey ladies' (up to 1.5m long) I use the 1/2 ltr cans of RAL standard colours, e.g. RAL 1001 is medium navy grey, RAL 7035 is a lighter grey more like the RN hull colour. 1/2 litre thinned to the consistency of milk (low fat😉) does a lot of hulls and you don't want it to harden in the can do you! 😡 A good shop should be able to mix any colour you want. Take the paint chart with you and the mixer should be able to look up the mix code on a computer. If he hasn't got one - go somewhere else!! You should also find the primer filler there (usually only grey I'm afraid), if not go to a pro car supplies shop - you'll find the Protection Lacquer there as well. Cheers Doug 😎
First job today was to reduce the rudders by 1cmx1cm which I think not only looks better but should reduce the affects that have been mentioned in comments below. Ive fitted the cockpit which I assembled yesterday. Its not the best fit into the deck, however, I shall blend it all in with some balsa strip, sand, filler, sanding sealer hopefully for a seamless finish. I have pictured the 2 x Hobbyking waterproof boat 30 amp esc. These are supposed to be water cooled, however I am not going to fit the tubing and start drilling water pickup and exit holes in the hull x 4 until I think that water cooling is going to be necessary. Once I have watt meter readings for 2S and 3S lipo, it will give me an idea what the ESC are going to be like. Of course if you guys think I need to go water cooling, please let me know! I have an Mtroniks W-tail mixer that will allow the motors to be synched to the rudders allowing the inboard motor to slow or stop when turning. Never used one before, so may need to some programming once hooked up, we shall see. Last job today was to shoot a could of coats of red oxide primer on the lower hull to see what the resin finish was like. on the whole not a bad finish at all, just a could of tiny areas that need a little sanding for a faily blemish free finish.
Evenin' Gerry. OK understood. So I assume you have no electrical equipment, experience or components available. Correct? For an 'electrics novice' I am inclined to recommend you start with standard brushed motors and NiMH batteries. Cheaper and easier to manage for a novice. In which case 3 x 380/385 motors with 3 x 25mm 3 blade screws would be a good start. Can send some info on a suitable dual+1 ESC and rudder mixer tomorrow, getting late here in Munich now 😲 Don't worry there's lots of clever (been there dun that) guys here who'll help you through 😉 More later when I've cogitated a little 😊 One final thought: don't finish planking/skinning the hull until the motor mounts and prop shaft hull breakthroughs are sorted out and trial fitted for alignment. Doing that on a completed sealed hull is a pain in the you know where🤔 cheers Doug 😎
Hi Gerry, welcome aboard 👍 Don't mind some of our crustier Fleet Admirals😉, they mean well and have a wealth of knowledge 😉 First some basics (and forgive me if I'm preaching to the converted but the query was a bit bald to say the least!)! - 1 What experience do you have with RC boats? 2 Brushed or brushless motors? Are you aware of the pros and cons? 3 Battery: are you thinking NiMH or LiPO? Are you equipped for LiPOs, i.e. appropriate charger? 3 I assume you mean the ELCO 80 foot Patrol Torpedo Boat (PTB)? Which at 1:32 would give a model of around 30 inches. Please confirm or let us know what original type the model should represent. 4 Are you scratch building from a plan, or from a kit? If a kit which one? Maker? Sorry for all the questions, but it's like computers; nothing in = nothing out!🤔 Some general rules (I know, rules are made to be bent til' they break!😉) If you go brushed motors there is a neat dual ESC + rudder mixer on the market where you can also connect a third separate ESC for the centre motor, to give that extra OOOMPH at Full Ahead 😊 If you go brushless the basic rule is props no larger than the diameter of the motor. And use an out runner, good torque and SHOVE! Inrunners are mostly for the fly boys 😉 Guideline: last year I bought a 28" LoA model of an ELCO 80 footer PTB from another member. It's fitted with 2 x 28xx brushless motors and 30mm 3 blade screws and 2 x HobbyKing XC-10A ESCs. The builder who sold it to me said it is 'almost uncontrollable'! Whatever you do have fun with it, but if in doubt ASK, before you dump money in the boating lake! 🤔 Good luck and best regards, Doug 😎
Thanks Mark, I'm blessed with a wife who used to work in the automotive paint trade as a colour matcher, mixer, so she always helps me with my painting problems. But by far the most important thing to remember is preparation is key to all work. Cheers Colin.
Doug Whilst I agree the sound systems you have found are excellent, am I right in thinking they are designed for the model truck market? I am sure they can be modified. There are circuits in Practical Electronics and I am just waiting for someone else to produce a working design smaller than a large mobile phone. The best steam sound unit I found for my tugs of the IMARA era came from Technobots, coupled to a 20Watt amp and 8" speaker. Sadly they no longer supply the sound unit, but there are other suppliers. If I recall one of our members was involved and I suggest you visit http://www.forge-electronics.co.uk/index.php. If you are using two ESCs you really need two units but one amp and speaker would be OK You did suggest similar using pre-amp mixer, which would allow mixing of other sounds. On my lake you can hear this system from the middle of the lake 50 yds+ so I have an on/off switch if it causes nuisance!?!
What I don't like about the 'Noisy Thing' is that apparently the engine sound stops for as long as you use any other sound; e.g. fog horn, ship's bell etc, so called 'General Sounds' in the Action description, if you use it in so called 'Throttle Mode', i.e. engine sound coupled to speed. In that case you may as well use a Switch module to connect the 'General Sounds' on separate modules to an amplifier with mixer inputs. The sound modules I found here (Germany) don't have this disadvantage. They have at least two output channels enabling a minimum of two simultaneous sounds. Specific sounds can also be coupled to switched outputs; e.g. to move cranes, gun turrets, or switch lights etc whenever that corresponding sound is actuated. Specific sequences of various sounds can be pre-programmed and initiated with one command using only one sound channel. Attached are extracts from the manual of a module from Neuhaus Electronics showing how to synchronise real engine sounds to the throttle. Needs a bit of PC work but no rocket science 😉 and the sounds are then linked to the throttle stick position. Send me a PM and I can send you details including source and operating manual. The Graupner module is very similar but I haven't experimented with it yet. Cheers Doug 😎
Hi Chris, glad to have helped, having already been down that road and learning the hard way! 😉 Actually Raboesch is a Dutch company. Not quite Double Dutch but in the case of 'Left - Right' props close to 🤔 Your boat: Rother class, OK so it's a slow (10knots) displacement hull. With bilge keels which make turning more difficult. I would probably use two brushed motors cos you don't need the Oomph of brushless. With brushed you can then use the Action Electronics Dual ESC and rudder mixer, P94Lite. From Component Shop. See pic. https://www.componentshop.co.uk/action-electronics/esc.html Good for 10A continuous to each motor - brushed ONLY! I'm about to fit one to my 5 foot Graf Spee. With the hull form of the Rother only sea trials will confirm which is best outward or inward. have fun with the build and trials, looking forward to updates / pics / vids 👍 BTW: will yours also be Self Righting??? 😉 Cheers Doug 😎
Built one of these a few years ago. Great for tug towing and rescue work. Had an Action mixer at one time and with two separate 6v batteries worked great. I could literally spin in the spot. Moved to twin motor control as I used to fly model planes and was used to using all four stick axis. Not sure a bow thruster will work well on this model as it is so manouverable. Makes into a nice realistic model and I wish I had kept mine. If I were to make another I would make a better seal of the rear deck, it leaks like mad in it's designed fit. I eventually made a raised coaming round the opening. Coming along nicely.
Hello Mark. I was just not aware of the choices and followed the 'usual routine'.......... When space is such a consideration, I expected to see more of this type of approach. Enjoying the journey anyway. Thanks for your help. Cheers. NPJ
NJP. you can use the mini blade fuses, no problem, the difference is price, standard fuses are about half the price if mini's. Apart from your mounted fuse holders, why not just use crimp spade connectors??? get the right size for the blades no need for a holder or mounting Mark