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Graupner Elke HF 408 by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 hours ago
BTW Allen, Dave's comments re 'old motors' go in the right direction but the basic thought and measurement technique are not quite right. There should never be ANY ohm meter reading between armature coils (i.e. motor supply connections) and case! Do by all means try this, but anything less than infinity, '---' on most digital meters, means a scrap motor😡 This test really requires an insulation test using what is commonly called a Mega meter. This has a crank generator which puts high voltage (ca 1000V+😲) across the unit under test. It measures the insulation resistance in millions of Ohms, hence the name Mega! For us modellers not a particularly useful or practical test! The most common form of deterioration in old motors is cracking and flaking of the insulating varnish of the armature windings. This does not normally cause shorts or spurious measurable resistance to the case but causes internal shorts in the windings thus reducing their resistance and therefore increasing the current they draw for a given voltage applied, as Dave indicated. There are two ways you can check this, if you have a decent Ohm meter, one less, one more accurate. The less accurate is done externally by measuring across the normal motor connections and thus include the resistance of the brushes and connections. Connect the meter where you normally connect the output from the ESC. Slowly rotate the motor so you can feel the slight 'click' as the motor moves from one winding to the next (or one magnetic pole to the next if you like😉) You should see a few Ohms resistance at each pole. Value depending on the quality of the carbon brushes. Better quality brushes (more copper content) = lower resistance. Note and compare each 'pole' reading. If one 'pole' reading is significantly lower than the others then that winding has an internal short😡 The motor may overheat in that winding, depending on how many wires are affected, and fail eventually. The more accurate method is to dismantle the motor and measure the winding resistances directly at the commutator, i.e. without the brushes in circuit. But this is only useful for nuts like me 😁 as in my 50 year old Taycol Target renovation. I was lucky no shorts and all windings same resistance + or - a gnat's whatsit!😊 Sooooo, to cut a long story sideways😉I think it's very unlikely your motor has any internal problems. I recently found one of the ancient Mabuchis I originally fitted in my HMS Hotspur destroyer 51 years ago, it still clattered along, bearings shot but electrically still OK 😊 Just take what you've got now down to the lake and give her a Go. If she looks right then she most probably is! As my German colleagues would say "Always a hand's width of water under your keel". Cheers Doug 😎 PS: "But trust me on the sunscreen" 😁

Make shift Washer! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Highly innovative Ed👍 There is a saying here in Germany amongst the ship modeller fraternity, loosely translated - "Ship modellers never throw anything away that won't start to stink in a week or so"!😉 "And I will get some stainless steal washers! " Don't get yourself arrested Ed 😲😁

Solent RC Model Boat Club at South West Model Show by Donnieboy Lieutenant   Posted: 4 days ago
Great detail on all the models.Now I know what can be done.All it takes is a lot of patience.Enjoy seeing what other modellers have achieved.Really enjoyed the video.

Formers in-planking starts! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
I mostly use Aliphatic PVA in my aircraft builds. Was watching a video on youtube of an aeromodellers channel I subscribe too and he swears by 502! bought 500ml for just over £3 at tool station!

Dumas 1203 Coast Guard Lifeboat (RNLI Waveney conversion) by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi I have the Billings version as does a fellow club modeller. Initially I used two 300 motors with a 12v 1.3amp battery placed in the rear cabin space. Good for about 4 mins then died. I now use two brushless 28xx size 30 amp ESC and an 11.1v Lipo 2.1 amp. My friend has a similar set up. Gives about 30 mins and exceptional speed. The lipo sits where the SLA was. I can understand your concerns about the lack of warning on your Mtronic but you can source battery alarms that will emit a loud noise when the cell voltage gets below the set voltage. Providing you are paying attention you will hear and bring the boat home. The running time will be similar on each occasion so you could also use a stop watch (on your phone). I have tried NiMhs but they lack the power and are nearly as heavy as the SLA.

Hector Read by Gascoigne Commander   Posted: 7 days ago
Thanks for that Marky. Good to think she is still afloat. An engineer who once worked aboard related a hair raising experience he had years ago involving restarting a failed engine during a hazardous attempt to get a line aboard a drifting coaster in heavy seas off Gt Yarmouth. It gives an added interest and life to our models when hearing from seamen who actually worked aboard the real vessel. I am sure there must be many modellers with similar tales.

Midhurst Model Engineering Exhibition February 2018 by Bryan-the-pirate Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
It was a good event, The guys from Shoreham are amazing modellers and it was good meeting them.

happy hunter by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Hi Doug I agree the commercial stuff is not nice. I was suggesting the hobby plastic weld solvents freely available and used by fine scale modellers for joining plastic kits etc. It is sold under a variety of names, the SHG catalogue lists: PLAS1 Plasweld – Liquid Polystyrene solvent adhesive Plasweld special solvent weld will bond Styrene, ABS, Butyrate, Acrylic and other types of plastic materials. Easy to apply using a brush. Bonds in seconds. The Ultimate Plastic Building Tool , 50ml bottle 2.00 POLY3L Precision Poly cement 28ml with needle applicator 3.25 POLY4 Polystyrene Cement 12ml tube 2.00 POLY4L Mek Poly Liquid Polystyrene Cement 30ml Bottle 2.75 PLAS7 Plastic filler. Special filler for plastic modelling 2.50. There are many other suppliers in the UK and overseas. Like most glues it is recommended that you work in a well ventilated area and avoid breathing the vapours as far as possible. I do hope you weren't exposed to the substance for too long!

Midhurst Model Engineering Exhibition February 2018 by ads90 Commander   Posted: 9 days ago
It was a really good show yesterday at Midhurst with Basingstoke, Phoenix, Swiss Cottage, Portsmouth Model Display Team, Portsmouth Power Boat, Selsey and Springbok model boat clubs to name a few. A good many visitors and good camaraderie between clubs, so good all round exhibition which also included great model train layouts and the fantastic Meccano modellers. Here's to next year guys.

HMCS AGASSIZ (Corvette) by Dom of Essential RC Captain   Posted: 10 days ago
This truly stunning piece was created by Barry Sharman of Southampton International Plastic Modellers’ Society (IPMS UK). A replica of the HMCS Agassiz with a mind boggling level of detail not only on the outside but also on the inside visible through cut out sections of the hull. Barry invited me to see the other side of the model and was amazed to see several crew members restoring that side. Spectacular and no wonder it was protected by a glass case that Barry kindly removed so I could film it without chance of picking up any reflections.

Thurl pin rack by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Fits with the etymology of Thurl or Thirl! 👍 Highly appropriate for a bunch of 'very old English' boat modellers 😁 (Myself included😉) happy thurling!

Bournville Submarine Day by Aquaflite Lieutenant   Posted: 17 days ago
The whole day dedicated to everything that Submerges. All are welcome to bring along their Submarines to chat and sail with like minded modellers. 10am until 1800hrs. Tea, coffee and refreshments available. Disabled access

upgrading Turnigy i6 to 10 channels by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Hi Chris One of my fellow modellers was at the lake today with a Turnigy type clone. Not touch screen so had the push buttons to set up. He was having problems setting the end point and servo reverse. Seemed to change correctly and pressing OK then cancel returned to the main screen. The setting however had not changed. Tried a couple of times with same result. Third time I pressed and held onto the cancel button and the screen went blank then reappeared as the main screen. Bingo the changes had taken. It would appear you need to press and hold the cancel button for a second or two to allow the internal chip to be programmed. Doug has read the instructions which do not mention holding the button. Your software update has worked as the display shows all ten channels. I do believe the final stage where you allocate the controls may need you to hold the cancel button to retain the settings. Worth a try. Please let us know if it works

Boat Identity by Keystone Petty Officer   Posted: 26 days ago
Is there anyone on here who can give me any detail of my boat. She is about 44inches long, 15inch beam and the mast is 55inches. I acquired it from a non-modeller in Norwich after his father died. I believe it to built by a commercial firm as it is quite heavy fibre glass and very little access to the control gear. Sails like a dream but any information would be helpful.

Guestbook Post by SelwynWilliams Admiral   Posted: 27 days ago
I do a lot of wreck research and one of the reasons I joined was to find a sea plane tender that had picked up the pilot from a 1941 plane I had found underwater. I needed a photo of a similar boat but couldn't find the tender on the web. I mentioned it on here and back came a photo of the self same sea plane tender from RNMunich? That meant so much to me but I have been intrigued by the details and research modellers do on here. I felt so grateful that I donated to such a great site.