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>> Home > Tags > modeller

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Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build by reilly4 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 hours ago
I am afraid that I disagree with the comments about Doug. They do not reflect Doug's comments or intentions. We are here to offer assistance to those that request it and others that may learn from the comments etc. Doug offers some of the best most practical advice from his experience. A Fairmile D had 4 engines and props. If you want to recreate it as a true scale model then that is the the aim. You are entitled to have one prop, one engine and one SLA battery in your boat. It may plane for approx 10 minutes before it slows and drops off the plane. I had such an arrangement a few decades ago in an old MTB, but have learned from it and moved on. I would not advise this arrangement with all the newer motors, battery types and ESCs available. My Fairmile D has 2 x Speed 700 motors and NiMH batteries. It runs on plane for an hour or more. My newer Vosper MTB and La Combattante III boats have 2 x brushless motors each and the same NiMH battery packs - my choice. Other people use LiPo batteries. We respect all modellers and their quest to build 'their' own models. Nothing wrong with having the best advice available, so modellers can make up their own minds.

CNC boat kits...? by DodgyGeezer Lieutenant   Posted: 12 days ago
I'll probably go for a laser cutter in the end. A big CO2 one - but these are powerful tools, and i'd like to have a reliable cutting bed before experimenting with something that might cut the shed in half! The obvious answer is to use some driver software that does handle tool radius compensation - I understand that the Tiny board firmware is now open source with a new name - G2Core. I think it needs a bit more poke than an Arduino Uno, though. I intend to simply slot sheets of balsa into it and crank out kit parts - which means a single pass cut. One issue is how to hold the sheet of balsa down without interfering with the cut. I was wondering about a vacuum base. If you want to observe a laser cutter safely, I hear that the Yank modellers are sealing them in enclosures, and viewing progress through a webcam, which is one answer....

Bournville Open Day by Aquaflite Lieutenant   Posted: 14 days ago
Bournville MBC Open Day. Bournville Radio Sailing and Model Boat Club invite all RC Skipper both wind and Power to join in their annual Open day. On the day racing for both sail and Power.along with informal sailing and general chit chat with like minded modellers. Free to enter Light Refreshments Free Parking Disabled Access Contact Rob Fowler 07714517445

Paint for Thames River Police Boat. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Hi Haverlock. I think I'll use a bit of 'modeller's license' and maybe a bit of 'the force' to choose a suitable deep blue. I need to finish this boat quite soon. Thanks for your diligence. Rob.

Book on Sailing Barges by Nerys Lieutenant   Posted: 19 days ago
There are many excellent books on Thames Sailing Barges, but for the modeller, I think 'Handbook of Sailing Barges' by F.S.Cooper and John Chancellor is one of the best. Fred Cooper was a well known Barge Skipper, John Chancellor, a former Merchant Navy Officer, lived with his family on the sailing barge Viper for many years. An accomplished artist, he illustrated this book with excellent line drawings of every aspect of the rig, deck fittings and construction details. There are usually copies for sale on Amazon and Abe Books. Nerys

Modellers Exhibition Midhurst by ads90 Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
The 37th Annual Modellers Exhibition will be held at The Grange Centre, Bepton Road, Midhurst, Sussex GU29 9HD on Sunday 10th February 2019. This is a great exhibition in the South where many Model Boat Clubs attend displaying a great array of their boats. For the train enthusiasts there is a large hall with fantastic displays and trade outlets.

Assembling the keel & adding bulkhead formers. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Mike. The majority of Phil Smith's Veron designs were around this principle, just as the Aerokits/KeilKraft designs were based on the 'egg crate' method. Both methods are very successful and popular over the years as many modellers will attest, and the hull can be completed really quite quickly. 'Plank on frame' is probably as common if not more and a great deal more time consuming but far better able to reproduce complex hull shapes. Never tried the latter..perhaps one day.

My other hobby by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Shucks Peter, having got that far ........!? 😭 I've never owned my own plane - the owner of the aged Cessna was an ex RN Captain and fellow modeller who I met at the lake here at the Ostpark while I was sailing my WW2 RN destroyer. I learned at Blackwater field not far from Sandhurst where I lived. My instructor was ex RAF fighter pilot. When he heard I was about to move to Germany he gave me a free hour after the normal lesson and 'showed me what the trainer (a Grumman P something) could really do - 'See that hole in the clouds up there?' Yes ---- Whoosh, and we were through it and hanging on the prop! Hang on to yer breakfast chaps!! Exhilarating 😊

Ship rudders by Toby Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
I have been making a rudder for a large scale model of S S Hunan and having progressed, after a few set backs, wondered how other modellers built their rudders especially those with multiple hinges. Toby

Are these any good by ChrisG Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Hello John I got very similar from Maplins now sadly missed and they work well and look much like the tools featured on your website. Not sure they would cope with an 8 hour day 7 days a week but wonderful for the modeller. Not a bad price either. Regards Chris G

Search light by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
It's a great shame that Maplins have gone, they were once a good source of electronic components but in later years turned into more of a 'toy shop' than an electronic hobbyists shop. The high power LED is nevertheless available from Hobbyking but the lense will prove more difficult to source now. Midas Components in Norfolk used to be an importer of the 'HJ-HPH2' lens and I also found this after a quick Google: https://www.tme.eu/gb/details/hj-hph2/lens/huey-jann-electro... The 'Peter Jones' mentioned could be the chap from the Dragons Den programme? I'm very flattered by Doug's epithet 'King of Crash Tenders' but it is undeserved and should be attributed to the likes of Paul Devlin (pmdevlin) and the late Peter Henshaw (HS93) both from whom I took great inspiration, (and stole lots of ideas from 😜). It is nevertheless very pleasing the the Crash Tenders still appeal to modellers who want to make them and detail them as much as Mike Turpin here.

"Surfury" Stern Name by luckybill Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 3 months ago
I expect that many modellers of this iconic craft encountered difficulty in painting the name on the stern (photo attached). Does anyone know if they used a specific font? Now that transfer sheets can be ink jet printed, it remains a difficult task to isolate the lettering for that would be an eventual easy application. Any other ideas? I would be pleased to hear anything on this subject! Thanks, Lucky Bill

just need cable (wire)... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Gents, I wanted the soft floppy silicon covered wires, so Halfords wouldn't do. Doug, the odd thing is that when I worked in Germany as a clay modeller, I was often given hard modelling jobs (not clay) which usually meant making complex little mechanisms. So much so that I became known as Mechanical Martin or just "Mekanist". Yet back home fitting all the worky bits to a model boat or even a slot car/model railway loco is the bit I hate! Don't know why, except maybe in the boats/slotcars/locos there is a certain way of doing it which I find a drudge and in the clay studios there was always an element of invention required. Indeed I am the nominated inventor on a VW patent! But, I have run out of space for storage boxes and can only rarely get to a decent pond to run anything, so I am going over to static models only now. 1/24th scale models of mahogany hot rods (woodies), some in scenic set-pieces, maybe. But I'll finish the models I have on the go first. Martin

Rudders and Propellers by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
BTW; I copied your above massive text block into a document file and split it up into paragraphs so I could see where you're at! My conclusion: so far so good BUT! You made the one classic mistake of many model boat / ship builders 🤔 You continued the prop shaft tube right back to the propeller and hence you had to make oversize struts to support them. This is fundamental wrong and creates unnecessary work.😉 On real ships, including the Schnellboote, the so called 'stuffing tube' is JUST THAT, it 'stuffs' the shaft through the hull and includes stuffing glands to prevent the ingress of sea water. Outside the hull ONLY the rotating shaft itself continues on through the bearing in the support strut and to the prop. See attached pics of my HMS Belfast as an example. There was actually no reason for you to make oversize strut bearings, simply bushes to match your prop SHAFT not the tube would have been correct. Inside the real ship there is also NO TUBE, only bearings at suitable intervals. They look like gigantic versions of the big ends in your car. Imagine on really big ships, carriers, container ships, bulk tankers etc, with shaft diameters of 1metre or so how big the 'tube' would be, how much weight that would add and how difficult it would be to service and maintain! I've often noticed in posts here that folk confuse shaft and tube, often referring to the whole assembly as 'the shaft'. For convenience we modellers use prop tubes, who wants to fiddle about making a row of internal shaft bearings no one will ever see and will most likely never be really concentric? The downside is that continuing this 'convenience' outside the hull is wrong, adds weight and detracts from the scale appearance of the model. 😭 OK, it's 3am here now so - orf me 'obby 'orse and up (in my case down!) the wooden stairs to Bedfordshire, G'night all, cheers, Doug😎 Re shaft length: What fits fits, what don't don't! Such a question is like asking 'How long is a piece of string?'! If all three motors abreast won't fit you have to decide if the central motor should / will fit fore or aft of the outer motors. Then measure / adjust the shaft length accordingly. Before you start fitting the centre motor check what length shafts are commercially available and adjust your motor fit to suit. Otherwise make your own shafts and tubes to fit as required, as I've started doing cos I got fed up with 'standard sizes' wot don' wanna fit my ship. 🤔 G'night All, cheers, Doug 😎

1-35 Scale Schenllboot By TeeJay by teejay Commander   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi all this is my first blog, last year I post my intention to do a project about an RAF D boat that my Father served on and as a precursor to that build That I was going to do this S/E boat as the hull design is shared by both, and as plastic kit modeller the kit great the first stage was to put together the decks and superstructure as normal, with the exception of all the bits that would be easily broken as most kit aircraft modellers aerials and guns tend to brake ,so long ago I got into the habit of making these out brass rod or bar using a mini drill and a set of needle files, holding the drill in my left hand and the files in my right, when started this I saw the number of stanches I needed so I came across this little beauty a mini bead lathe it is a great bit of kit and not expensive less than £50 and plenty of types and accessories available so all the stanches aerials hand rails, gun rails, horn, and some of the components for the rudder and tiller were made on this lathe. so good time being had in my first radio control boat. the next post will show all the parts for the rudder/tiller setup ( I have reposted blog because I think I did not do it properly first time round)