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>> Home > Tags > modeller

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How do I resolve my varnish problem? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Hi All, Lord Nelson varnish appears to be a Krick product from Germany! http://www.krickshop.de/Products/Paints-Accessories/Paints-for-Shipmodels/Lord-Nelson-Varnish.htm?shop=krick_e&a=catalog&p=435 produced for them by a Belgian company - http://www.ghiant.com/brands/ style='background-color:yellow;'>modellers/lord-nelson/ Must also be available in UK? For example http://www.anticsonline.co.uk/1368_1_2970537.html There is also a spray can version- http://hobby.uk.com/matt-varnish-300ml-spray.html Happy varnishing 😉 Cheers Doug 😎

How do I resolve my varnish problem? by Inkoust Admiral   Posted: 7 days ago
Hello, I recommend grinding the whole body with fine sanding paper, then take the "LORD NELSON" pore filler and then re-grind it again. Subsequently, the final lacquer of the best brand. I have been treated like a wooden boat DIVA and already for 6 years on the water without any problems. What happened to you is that you used a bad lacquer that does not resist water. Two-component epoxy lacquers are also good for large yachts. I'm sending a link to the Czech site where the varnishes are designed for ship modellers. Just use the Gogle translator and the same merchandise you can get at the shop. Or on EBay. https://www.modelylodi.cz/Laky-a-plnice-c11_86_2.htm😉

3 Footer on a very rare outing by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
"pmdevlin, it's difficult to build heavy if you follow the instructions" Yes it is, its also difficult when you didnt actually build the boat, it was originally built (as prev stated) circa 1962 by my uncle, with IC engine, and a straight running rudder, as he couldnt afford full rc gear back then. Im thinking Martin you have watched the video, and saw that the boats did plane, be it 30 knots or 300 knots, they planed, scale speed or not. I also own a four footer which handles beautifully, and is capable of well over scale speed, but speed is only relative to the position of the throttle stick, we all build to our own required specifications, and our own take on the original, with some modellers license😊 I would rather have power in reserve, than not enough power. The problem with my smaller 3 footer is at the time my lack of experience, resulting in a heavy boat, Now I own some fast scale boats, I dont need the performance from the 3 footer, so it can be rebuilt using a lighter motor, lighter power packs, and get rid of some of the unecessary weight to make it sit better in the water, and look better at slower speeds work in progress, as it hardly gets used, its not high on my to do list😡 thanks for the weight Dave, I remember that your 3 footer performs very nice, and is light. Ill weigh mine this week, its buried deep in the man shed, thanks also rob, but its the smaller 3 foot weight I was after👍 Paul

3 Footer on a very rare outing by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Martin I was just sharing a bit more info for the benefit of our members. I never said they were quick but did seek to support your view that they were not like the faster recovery vessels. I agree some models are sailed at over scale speed but each to their own and if it attracts new modellers to the hobby all the better. We can always try to interest them in more sedate models once they tire of racing round the lake. Dave

How do I resolve my varnish problem? by Westquay Captain   Posted: 20 days ago
Can't really add much to what Doug has said as he's covered the ground pretty well. I don't ever use paint stripper these days. I once used it to remove factory paint from a Matchbox toy when I was making a series of "Code 3" modified steam lorries. Very oddly the paint strippered ones refused to dry when sprayed with cellulose paint (yes, it was available then no probs.) If I sprayed over the factory paint it dried in minutes as cellulose will do. I hadn't had the problem before, but I certainly got it this time and I haven't wanted to use it since. On wood anyway, I wouldn't use anything liquid as it could always soak in and do who knows what damage. I would scrape the finish on your wood , but make sure you have read up on how to sharpen a cabinet scraper. The shiny ones are pigs to sharpen because they are stainless and you cannot get an edge on stainless. The best knives are NT stainless. As an ex clay modeller for the car industry, I can assure you that all slicks, which we called the thin flat scrapers, were spring steel. They had a nice gun blue finish, but would go rusty if you didn't look after them between contracts. Because you really need two hands to properly control a scraper you'll need to find a good way to hold the boat, but a sweet little job like that Sea Hornet will sit twixt your knees. Because you have all those fractures in a vertical way along the grain, keep your scraper in a diagonal way or it will pick up wood grain and damage the model. It may work if you work down the grain, perpendicular to the deck, so you are crossing the fissures in the varnish. I would suggest that if you want a varnish finish you will need to go over the wood with epoxy and possibly a light weight (1oz.) glass cloth. This will stop any tendency to split again. Surprisingly it does allow the grain to show still and after you have flattened the epoxy, you can then apply 2 or 3 coats, rubbed down in between as Doug says with a very fine paper, of a spar varnish. I have a no name tin which I am using on general stuff, from garden items to the spars of my "Vanity" model. When I did a model of a Rive Aquarama Special, I used an International Spar Varnish which has a slightly golden tinge. Now, the hard part. No boat I can ever think of had wood in a vertical lay on the hull. Ecen double or Riva's triple layer was diagonal, finishing with incredibly well selected horizontal layers. The Sea Hornet would be improved no end, I am sure with a layer of horizontal nature. What passes for mahogany these days is horrible stuff (and I would say that on your boat could even be teak, which should never be varnished), so I always used Steamed pear veneer, which has no figure and a very close grain. Sanding sealer, then stain with you idea of mahogany(from an orangey colour to a rich reddy brown), then spar varnish. DO NOT stain the wood/veneer, always stain the first coats of finish. Riva do that too! I want to know what makes you say the mahogany is the only stuff on the hull. The Sea Hornet has 1/16th" ply skins like all Aerokits, so why not yours? Personally, I think it would look best if you painted the hull and spent your efforts on doing a nice laid deck in Pear veneer and caulking. A gloss black hull and a laid, varnished deck look very tasty, like a Greavette gent's Racer. Pic attached. Cheers, Martin https://model-boats.com/media/np/s/200/1494407879

What happened to the WEM paints?? by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
Hi Doug A quick google gave https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/. "Sovereign Hobbies is an online model shop specialising in exceptional model accessories for Naval, Aircraft & Armour modellers. We stock various ranges including White Ensign Models, Pontos Model, Ultracast, HobbyDecal & we are the sole UK distributor of Infini Model. " Might have what you want Dave

Bluebird K7 by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
I agree John, can heartily recommend the small Bosch eccentric sanders with a collection of shaped pads (and dust extraction!!!!!👍) for the larger stuff, hulls etc, and the mini modeller sanders from Dremel and co for the fiddly stuff. 😎

Finishing by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
Hi Martin, Bin round the Talisker ? 😉 @stwdv; ignore what comes next, go to the last paragraph 😎 The scale effect (as I understand it) has nothing or little to do with shine! It refers to lightening / fading the colour to fool the brain into thinking an object is further away than it is, and therefore think it is larger. Look at any landscape photo or 'in real', hills or forests further away look lighter or more grey than the green ones in the foreground. There are pros and cons to both as Dave says. Cellulose is history, except from some nitrated cellulose solvents. In the car restoring days of my youth I remember getting crinkling if I used cellulose thinners from a different manufacturer than the paint 😡 @stwdv: if you do it veeeery carefully in very very thin misted layers (barely wet) you CAN put put a different paint on others BUT you need flat of and prime the old paint first. Pay a bit more for your primer (universal types) and ensure that the coating is absolutely complete and totally dry and hardened. Some combinations work better than others. But essentially it is better not to mix and match. It's essenentially the thinners that does the damage, less is more sometimes! Try to avoid cheap aerosols, paying a bit more avoids a lot of heartache and extra work, or throwing things in the bin 😡 They tend to have a fairly wide spread on the nozzles which wastes a lot of paint through over-spray. They also tend to be a bit thick and difficult to control the flow which can cause 'orange peeling or even runs and 'splodges' if the spray stutters. To counteract this one has to spray thinner; i.e. back off more from the object - which causes more over-spray. 🤔 The little spray cans made for modellers are much better than this in all respects than the cheap jumbo cans from the hardware store. Get a decent air brush for the big bits, then you can control the paint viscosity, flow and size and shape of the spray cone. takes a bit of practice but is worth it if you intend to build more models. But I suspect you wanted tips on the preparation! So let's cut to the chase😉 Sanding and filling are the buzz words. Checking the surface very lightly with your fingertips is much more sensitive and accurate than relying on your eyes. 🤓 When you think you got it right put on a THIN coat of primer (matched type to the finishing paint!) and you will soon see the spots you missed! So back to the filling and sanding. Use a very fine filler at this stage. Prime again and flat it off with 240 to 400 wet'ndry. Take off the residue with a damp sponge and dry!!! Go round this loop a few times and when eyes and finger tips agree you are ready for the finishing colour coats. Thin, let dry. Check for blemishes. Fix if necessary, flat off -> next coat. ALWAYS take note of paint can drying / hardening notes. Don't rush or you'll end up doing it again 😉 Hope this helps, bon chance mon ami 😎Doug PS my larger model (mostly warships!) I use resin based paints in half litre cans from the DIY shops and an airbrush. They are hard wearing, come in all colours (RAL codes) and finishes and are easy to mix and thin with turps or white spirit. They take the enamel for detailing with no problems. Snags: take longer to dry, but they are hard wearing and cheaper than millions of 14ml cans 👍

HMNZS Canterbury, HMNZS Waikato, HMNZS Taranaki by Inkoust Admiral   Posted: 22 days ago
A great job is to see the well-done work of the right modeller.

Finishing by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
Martin The original post was from a new member asking for help on finishing and painting. There are pros and cons with whatever you choose and for a new modeller it can be very confusing. I have used all kinds of paints either brushed or sprayed but now prefer to use Acrylic as (in my opinion) it needs less preparation, dries quickly and is less prone to runs. Unlike cellulose or enamel it can be painted over most prepared surfaces and has a nice flat finish suitable for a scale model boat. Your Sea Urchin looks splendid but when it was built that was the only paint available so the restoration is spot on. Dave

info on old yachts by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
A sad (or poignant) tale! Can fully understand why you are so determined to preserve her at least as a detail true working model! Respect, as our German colleagues would say 👍 Left in that state she would have destroyed herself by now 😭 such a shame, NaJa, the throw away society seems to be very slowly learning some lessons, there's hope yet! German ship modellers have a reputation for collecting and saving ANYTHING that won't start to stink within two weeks! I build as much as I can but when I want some 'quick fun' on the lake I might resort to opening the wallet. An ex Pat I met here around 30 years ago (ex RN Captain!) had an expression for that 'spending too much time bait digging (sic - building) and not enough fishing (sic - sailing)!' I half agreed with him, part of the fun for me is solving the problems and squeezing everything in. I look forward to the videos of 'Vanity' afloat. BTW I also lived a while in your neck of the woods, a long long time ago. Dad was stationed at RAF Marham, on the Victor Tankers, and I went to Kings Lynn Grammar and Tech College and then down to the smoke to Twickenham college. While in Norfolk I whizzed around the fens on a Vespa GS 160, 13HP went pretty well. Night driving in the fens is fun 😉 with all those right angled bends. Miss one and ................. SPLOSH! We used to play 'Chicken' - driving without lights!!!!! Trips to the coast with 'the ladies' on the pillion, Boston for concerts; Bananarama?, Hot Chocolate👍, The Animals, The Yardbirds (with Eric Clapton!) 👍 .... Happy days 😉 Cheers 😎

Where do yachties go? by Westquay Captain   Posted: 23 days ago
Cor blimey, luv a duck and all that, Dave. That's one hell of a selection for one club! Which club is that? I can even see a plumb stemmer there. My location (I thought I'd done that) is the Fens...Cambs/Norfolk borders and no, there is no model boat club close to me that I would consider travelling to. I found a group (couldn't call it a club) who sail, but they are all Isle o Manners. Silly ugly blobs, so were their boats! I have nothing remotely in common with people who think nothing of bragging that they spent 750 quid on some drawing film sails in a triangular hardboard box which they slide into their Honda Jazzes at precisely 12-31pm every other Sunday and drive along a mile or more of rutted farm track away from their little farm reservoir, to bump down miles more single lane somewhere out the back of Wisbech in fear of their other halves who have clearly said, "Be here at 12-53 or your dinner's in the dog!"! Otherwise it's all tug fans and pocket battleshippers who love a good bobbing cork. Fussy ain't I? I could accept all that if they weren't so far away and so expensive. What you have to understand is that there is water everywhere round here which you could just turn up at and sail on, but nobody does, except me. I ain't paying to join a club with a lake the size of Windermere, 30 miles away, which would require a rescue boat to be safe, when you can sail on a static river (canalised) for free, up the road! No, I was more wondering where one can go on the 'net for info. I've had to resort to the superior 'Net skills of a Canadian friend to save what he (as a static boat modeller) judges to be useful shots from youtube videos and then send 'em over! BTW, Dave I will PM you my email address. Please do add me to your youtube channel or whatever the correct terminology is. I have tried through the "Nextdoor" system to find model boaters near her, but have had no take up whatever. John, Bury is just a wee bit too far away!. But thanks for the thought. Cheers, Martin

Scale Sail Association by Westquay Captain   Posted: 27 days ago
I have one servo winch, but no idea how to hook it all up. Mind you I haven't had the Tx out of its box yet! I've no idea how to make 2.4giggery work. So expensive sail winches are a no-no. I can make using brass threaded rod, aluminium channel, nylon gears and some little motors I bought years ago as part of a batch. I estimate 5-6 quid a winch. that one winch will do main and foresails. When I worked in Germany in the car design trade, I was suppose to be a clay modeller, but if there was ever a mechanism required they came to me. Called me "Mekanist" (spelling?) or Kunstler, artist. In the end I was just Mechanical Mardin. I am nominated inventor on a VW patent and built things like rotating screens in the dashboard of the Passat, the first headrest screen installations, Palm computer transit systems, dash top oddments bins with powered lids, a new heater grille system for the redesigned Passat dash, etc. So, I guess a simple sail winch shouldn't worry me. But it will go in my model of the Victorian Cutter "Vanity", on which I used to live. I have 2 planks left to add to the hull and then the big fitout. Cheers, Martin

VS-8 by 32nd Parallel by spunky52 Seaman   Posted: 27 days ago
Oh and by the way; I should mention to everyone, if they haven't gone to look at the listing, that this is the basic kit, new in the box, but the picture shown was from a long ago issue of a scale ship modellers' review article... just thought to add that... spunky52

Crash Tender planking by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 29 days ago
Hi Martin. I'm pleased that my blog is interesting and helpful, but I don't want to mislead you on some of the details I have included on my model. I don't have any real hard evidence that there was any type of fancy decking on either of the fireboats, indeed I do believe that it's more than likely that the deck areas that I have finished with planking were probably just painted the same as the main deck and upperworks. These were working boats that would get harsh use and treatment so any type of adornment would be a waste of time and money. I do have a drawing of the tow hook deck that certainly shows an underlying planked construction of the rear decks but no finishing details. The only 'photo of the rear well that I have doesn't seem to show any visible planking so I suspect it was all just painted. My decision to plank these decks is pure 'modelling licence' as used by many other modellers of these boats and I think it adds interesting detail to what would otherwise be a very utilitarian vessel. Without access to the full original Vosper construction drawings and possibly other photographic evidence the decking question is open to speculation. Rob (Robbob)