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>> Home > Tags > modeller

marine modelling
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Midwest Cranberry Isle by Grandpa Commander   Posted: 10 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 36" Midwest Cranberry Isle Single Propellor (3 Blade) Direct Drive Powered by NiMH (7.2v) Batteries - Comments: Recently purchased this boat built by Don Sutton, Scale Captain, Metro Modellers Toronto, Canada 🇨🇦. Don built the boat about 15 years ago, but to make room for a larger new model he is selling older models. This style of Yacht has long been a favourite of mine which will be my winter scratch build project. Having this working model in my workshop will assist me with the project.

Bring & Buy Sale by ColinT Lieutenant   Posted: 21 days ago
24th September 2017 Mutual model Boat Society Grand Modellers Bring & Buy Sale Crimble croft Community Centre Aspinal Street, Heywood, Manchester OL10 4HL Come along and enjoy this famous event, Either to sell or purchase your supplies There are always lots of unusual bargains to be had Opening time for sales 09.30am Opening time for traders 08.300am Food available from 09.00am Closing time 1.00pm The whole site is wheel chair friendly Admission £1.50 includes a raffle ticket To Reserve a sellers Table, 6ft x 2ft =£10.00 Please contact Kevan Winward 07803 975089

bargain of the day by johnfastboat Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 27 days ago
High Marky, Couldn't help but notice people are callong you DOUG or am I confusing you with another reply? Firstly I have bought from Lidl on many occasions. There German and quality as you would expect goes with that. Just don't leave it too long buying when it's gone it's gone and very unlikely to be repeated. Mr RN in MUNICH. You do not have many Scots on board Munich boats RN or Not. Ask any SCOT who has an engineering background what a 'BOLT' is and he will reply it is a soldering iron. I learnt the hard way when with BT many years ago whilst in Scotland. All the very best to all you modellers. John Fastboat. Now in Rochdale, Lancashire.

bargain of the day by Midlife306 Captain   Posted: 1 month ago
I got a modellers jig saw from Lidl, fantastic piece of kit & cheap too👍 Cheers Wayne

3D printing by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Doug No I use silicon to make my moulds and Fast cast resin for the castings. The beauty of the 3D is the speed with which I can get an original to make my moulds. Also I can then rescale to the correct dimensions for a different model. Add to that the fact that I can add lots of fine detail that may be challenging if I was making each original. Technological advances are great but it does tend to make us lazy and lose the some of the skills we have developed. I do admire the true scale modellers who make all their own fittings and there are many on this site who produce stunning models from whatever materials they can find. It is good to see Build Blogs that cover a multitude of techniques and skills and it is always interesting to see how others have approached and tackled their project. Such knowledge is fast disappearing and it is sites like this where members share their projects that keep the hobby alive. Dave

3D printing by colinhubbard Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Sorry about repeats, phone screen wasn't showing as sent, also wasn't getting at you modern techno chaps, just wish all modellers a good life, my modelling is therapy for my arthritis. I used cad and g code in my job as an engineering works manager and once you get to use it it's just like drawing by without the hassle of pencil sharpening.

Design bits by tomarack Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi, some next words yet.. Let me quote some comments from Kimosuby here too.. Still, with out resort to complicated calculations etc most model bargees decide to add a keel. Note; not a fin as this implies a thin item, but a good area of keel. Its position is most usual, on a 1/24 scale barge, with it’s leading edge 3 inches behind the front edge of the mast. It’s purpose is to inhibit leeway, which on such a small flat bottomed hull, is quite large. Visual examination of the barge profile (all scales) shows that this is also the position that the leeboards occupy when lowered, so if it was a good position for the full size barge builders, then it’s probably good for us modellers too. ............ I asked Ivor Bittle too, and he gave me the same advice. he wrote in short ... The location of the CLR should be located approximately on the vertical axis at a location corresponding to the center of the wetted surface of the leeboard located downward approximately at an angle of 45 °- 60° .. if something looks good, then it's good ... Before all --as I can see .. you have to use rule of thumb .. 😊 The Universe in which we live is supremely untrustworthy (Douglas Adams) Greetrings 😉 Tom

propellers specilly made by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi cliff Now I understand. It's always interesting to see how other modellers connect their drive shafts and I hope this solution works for you. The model is looking good and the detail will certainly add to the character. As you are making most of the fittings I do hope you will keep posting your progress. Dave

How do I resolve my varnish problem? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi All, Lord Nelson varnish appears to be a Krick product from Germany! produced for them by a Belgian company - style='background-color:yellow;'>modellers/lord-nelson/ Must also be available in UK? For example There is also a spray can version- Happy varnishing 😉 Cheers Doug 😎

How do I resolve my varnish problem? by Inkoust Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hello, I recommend grinding the whole body with fine sanding paper, then take the "LORD NELSON" pore filler and then re-grind it again. Subsequently, the final lacquer of the best brand. I have been treated like a wooden boat DIVA and already for 6 years on the water without any problems. What happened to you is that you used a bad lacquer that does not resist water. Two-component epoxy lacquers are also good for large yachts. I'm sending a link to the Czech site where the varnishes are designed for ship modellers. Just use the Gogle translator and the same merchandise you can get at the shop. Or on EBay.😉

3 Footer on a very rare outing by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
"pmdevlin, it's difficult to build heavy if you follow the instructions" Yes it is, its also difficult when you didnt actually build the boat, it was originally built (as prev stated) circa 1962 by my uncle, with IC engine, and a straight running rudder, as he couldnt afford full rc gear back then. Im thinking Martin you have watched the video, and saw that the boats did plane, be it 30 knots or 300 knots, they planed, scale speed or not. I also own a four footer which handles beautifully, and is capable of well over scale speed, but speed is only relative to the position of the throttle stick, we all build to our own required specifications, and our own take on the original, with some modellers license😊 I would rather have power in reserve, than not enough power. The problem with my smaller 3 footer is at the time my lack of experience, resulting in a heavy boat, Now I own some fast scale boats, I dont need the performance from the 3 footer, so it can be rebuilt using a lighter motor, lighter power packs, and get rid of some of the unecessary weight to make it sit better in the water, and look better at slower speeds work in progress, as it hardly gets used, its not high on my to do list😡 thanks for the weight Dave, I remember that your 3 footer performs very nice, and is light. Ill weigh mine this week, its buried deep in the man shed, thanks also rob, but its the smaller 3 foot weight I was after👍 Paul

3 Footer on a very rare outing by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Martin I was just sharing a bit more info for the benefit of our members. I never said they were quick but did seek to support your view that they were not like the faster recovery vessels. I agree some models are sailed at over scale speed but each to their own and if it attracts new modellers to the hobby all the better. We can always try to interest them in more sedate models once they tire of racing round the lake. Dave

How do I resolve my varnish problem? by Westquay Captain   Posted: 3 months ago
Can't really add much to what Doug has said as he's covered the ground pretty well. I don't ever use paint stripper these days. I once used it to remove factory paint from a Matchbox toy when I was making a series of "Code 3" modified steam lorries. Very oddly the paint strippered ones refused to dry when sprayed with cellulose paint (yes, it was available then no probs.) If I sprayed over the factory paint it dried in minutes as cellulose will do. I hadn't had the problem before, but I certainly got it this time and I haven't wanted to use it since. On wood anyway, I wouldn't use anything liquid as it could always soak in and do who knows what damage. I would scrape the finish on your wood , but make sure you have read up on how to sharpen a cabinet scraper. The shiny ones are pigs to sharpen because they are stainless and you cannot get an edge on stainless. The best knives are NT stainless. As an ex clay modeller for the car industry, I can assure you that all slicks, which we called the thin flat scrapers, were spring steel. They had a nice gun blue finish, but would go rusty if you didn't look after them between contracts. Because you really need two hands to properly control a scraper you'll need to find a good way to hold the boat, but a sweet little job like that Sea Hornet will sit twixt your knees. Because you have all those fractures in a vertical way along the grain, keep your scraper in a diagonal way or it will pick up wood grain and damage the model. It may work if you work down the grain, perpendicular to the deck, so you are crossing the fissures in the varnish. I would suggest that if you want a varnish finish you will need to go over the wood with epoxy and possibly a light weight (1oz.) glass cloth. This will stop any tendency to split again. Surprisingly it does allow the grain to show still and after you have flattened the epoxy, you can then apply 2 or 3 coats, rubbed down in between as Doug says with a very fine paper, of a spar varnish. I have a no name tin which I am using on general stuff, from garden items to the spars of my "Vanity" model. When I did a model of a Rive Aquarama Special, I used an International Spar Varnish which has a slightly golden tinge. Now, the hard part. No boat I can ever think of had wood in a vertical lay on the hull. Ecen double or Riva's triple layer was diagonal, finishing with incredibly well selected horizontal layers. The Sea Hornet would be improved no end, I am sure with a layer of horizontal nature. What passes for mahogany these days is horrible stuff (and I would say that on your boat could even be teak, which should never be varnished), so I always used Steamed pear veneer, which has no figure and a very close grain. Sanding sealer, then stain with you idea of mahogany(from an orangey colour to a rich reddy brown), then spar varnish. DO NOT stain the wood/veneer, always stain the first coats of finish. Riva do that too! I want to know what makes you say the mahogany is the only stuff on the hull. The Sea Hornet has 1/16th" ply skins like all Aerokits, so why not yours? Personally, I think it would look best if you painted the hull and spent your efforts on doing a nice laid deck in Pear veneer and caulking. A gloss black hull and a laid, varnished deck look very tasty, like a Greavette gent's Racer. Pic attached. Cheers, Martin

What happened to the WEM paints?? by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Doug A quick google gave "Sovereign Hobbies is an online model shop specialising in exceptional model accessories for Naval, Aircraft & Armour modellers. We stock various ranges including White Ensign Models, Pontos Model, Ultracast, HobbyDecal & we are the sole UK distributor of Infini Model. " Might have what you want Dave

Bluebird K7 by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
I agree John, can heartily recommend the small Bosch eccentric sanders with a collection of shaped pads (and dust extraction!!!!!👍) for the larger stuff, hulls etc, and the mini modeller sanders from Dremel and co for the fiddly stuff. 😎