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It's a great shame that Maplins have gone, they were once a good source of electronic components but in later years turned into more of a 'toy shop' than an electronic hobbyists shop. The high power LED is nevertheless available from Hobbyking but the lense will prove more difficult to source now. Midas Components in Norfolk used to be an importer of the 'HJ-HPH2' lens and I also found this after a quick Google: https://www.tme.eu/gb/details/hj-hph2/lens/huey-jann-electro... The 'Peter Jones' mentioned could be the chap from the Dragons Den programme? I'm very flattered by Doug's epithet 'King of Crash Tenders' but it is undeserved and should be attributed to the likes of Paul Devlin (pmdevlin) and the late Peter Henshaw (HS93) both from whom I took great inspiration, (and stole lots of ideas from 😜). It is nevertheless very pleasing the the Crash Tenders still appeal to modellers who want to make them and detail them as much as Mike Turpin here.
I expect that many modellers of this iconic craft encountered difficulty in painting the name on the stern (photo attached). Does anyone know if they used a specific font? Now that transfer sheets can be ink jet printed, it remains a difficult task to isolate the lettering for that would be an eventual easy application. Any other ideas? I would be pleased to hear anything on this subject! Thanks, Lucky Bill
Gents, I wanted the soft floppy silicon covered wires, so Halfords wouldn't do. Doug, the odd thing is that when I worked in Germany as a clay modeller, I was often given hard modelling jobs (not clay) which usually meant making complex little mechanisms. So much so that I became known as Mechanical Martin or just "Mekanist". Yet back home fitting all the worky bits to a model boat or even a slot car/model railway loco is the bit I hate! Don't know why, except maybe in the boats/slotcars/locos there is a certain way of doing it which I find a drudge and in the clay studios there was always an element of invention required. Indeed I am the nominated inventor on a VW patent! But, I have run out of space for storage boxes and can only rarely get to a decent pond to run anything, so I am going over to static models only now. 1/24th scale models of mahogany hot rods (woodies), some in scenic set-pieces, maybe. But I'll finish the models I have on the go first. Martin
BTW; I copied your above massive text block into a document file and split it up into paragraphs so I could see where you're at! My conclusion: so far so good BUT! You made the one classic mistake of many model boat / ship builders 🤔 You continued the prop shaft tube right back to the propeller and hence you had to make oversize struts to support them. This is fundamental wrong and creates unnecessary work.😉 On real ships, including the Schnellboote, the so called 'stuffing tube' is JUST THAT, it 'stuffs' the shaft through the hull and includes stuffing glands to prevent the ingress of sea water. Outside the hull ONLY the rotating shaft itself continues on through the bearing in the support strut and to the prop. See attached pics of my HMS Belfast as an example. There was actually no reason for you to make oversize strut bearings, simply bushes to match your prop SHAFT not the tube would have been correct. Inside the real ship there is also NO TUBE, only bearings at suitable intervals. They look like gigantic versions of the big ends in your car. Imagine on really big ships, carriers, container ships, bulk tankers etc, with shaft diameters of 1metre or so how big the 'tube' would be, how much weight that would add and how difficult it would be to service and maintain! I've often noticed in posts here that folk confuse shaft and tube, often referring to the whole assembly as 'the shaft'. For convenience we modellers use prop tubes, who wants to fiddle about making a row of internal shaft bearings no one will ever see and will most likely never be really concentric? The downside is that continuing this 'convenience' outside the hull is wrong, adds weight and detracts from the scale appearance of the model. 😭 OK, it's 3am here now so - orf me 'obby 'orse and up (in my case down!) the wooden stairs to Bedfordshire, G'night all, cheers, Doug😎 Re shaft length: What fits fits, what don't don't! Such a question is like asking 'How long is a piece of string?'! If all three motors abreast won't fit you have to decide if the central motor should / will fit fore or aft of the outer motors. Then measure / adjust the shaft length accordingly. Before you start fitting the centre motor check what length shafts are commercially available and adjust your motor fit to suit. Otherwise make your own shafts and tubes to fit as required, as I've started doing cos I got fed up with 'standard sizes' wot don' wanna fit my ship. 🤔 G'night All, cheers, Doug 😎
Hi all this is my first blog, last year I post my intention to do a project about an RAF D boat that my Father served on and as a precursor to that build That I was going to do this S/E boat as the hull design is shared by both, and as plastic kit modeller the kit great the first stage was to put together the decks and superstructure as normal, with the exception of all the bits that would be easily broken as most kit aircraft modellers aerials and guns tend to brake ,so long ago I got into the habit of making these out brass rod or bar using a mini drill and a set of needle files, holding the drill in my left hand and the files in my right, when started this I saw the number of stanches I needed so I came across this little beauty a mini bead lathe it is a great bit of kit and not expensive less than £50 and plenty of types and accessories available so all the stanches aerials hand rails, gun rails, horn, and some of the components for the rudder and tiller were made on this lathe. so good time being had in my first radio control boat. the next post will show all the parts for the rudder/tiller setup ( I have reposted blog because I think I did not do it properly first time round)
[Score: 9/10] 39"/3400g Sir Kay (T241) Capable of 3mph and a runtime of 30mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 50mm) Geared to a MFA Geared 2.5:1 (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (7.2v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Mtroniks (5Amps) ESC - Comments: This is my Sir Kay (T241) - Round Table Class Minesweeper. It is from the Caldercraft range and I was fortunate to recently acquire it - I would have much preferred to have built it but couldn't miss the opportunity of it being given to me by an old retiring modeller. It just needed new RC throughout, a good clean, a tidy up and some fresh paint here and there plus a bit of rigging renewal. Not tried it in the water yet but will do tomorrow at our Club meet. Tried it today and it sailed really well, stable and sits perfectly on the water and one 3000mA 7.2 NiMH battery lasted all afternoon - so pleased with it.
There aren't any living near me, though they have been to look at it but decided that the access isn't good enough, and no nearby facilities. I sometimes see a group of modellers with flying boats like catalinas and Sunderlands. Otherwise I have it all to myself. Cheers Colin.
Best thing I ever did was deal with SLEC as an aeromodeller. I have a fuselage building Jig that I am using to build a new Sea Queen. The idea is to ensure no twist on a 46" hull. Just making the blocks to allow for the Skeg will post pictures soon😊😊
Simply superb, you're right about the bits and classic speed boats, but in the model world I think there the best, our best seems likely to be the Fairey range of boats but although quite quick still rather blockish. I have deep respect for modellers who are able to produce such exquisite examples. My humble efforts give me great enjoyment as most of my work involves renovation of old forgotten models when my arthritis let's me. Cheers Colin.
[Score: 5/10] 22"/2700g Sinbad Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 90mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 40mm) Direct Drive to a 380 motor (3 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (6v) Batteries Controlled Through mincon (5Amps) ESC - Comments: out of the box, purchased from an other modeller but made some chanses like new funnel and colour
Evenin' Mike, guess you're right 🤔 Bit of a departure for me I admit, and after I'd cleaned all the crud off and realised how shoddy and weak the hull was I wondered if I'd bitten off more than I can chew😲 However progress has been made😊 I hate to be beaten! See next update 'Motorisation - Come What May!' You'll recognise the topic from the discussion on dies and threading silver steel prop shafts😉 I'm multiplexing this project with a PTB renovation and refit! Like most boat modellers 'a glutton for punishment'. Cheers, Doug 😎
Enjoyable day.Light rain but lovely weather.Members from Kawartha Marine Modellers,Confederation Marine Modellers and Metro Marine Modellers attended.Wide variety of boats.Had BBQ afterwards.There is a couple of pictures of Springer tugs for people to have an idea what to do to theirs.
Doug,I have been following your posts.I have learned quite a lot from them.Too bad you are not here in Canada.I'm always trying to get more people to access the model boat website to gain more info on problems they may have.Also to see what other modellers are achieving.Keep up the good work,it is very much appreciated.