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[Score: 10/10] 48" HMS Cadiz Capable of 3mph and a runtime of 120mins Twin Propellors (3 Blade 25mm) Direct Drive Powered by LiPoly (14.8v) 7Amp/h Batteries - Comments: Scratch built other than a fibreglass hull, built by my father over about 5 years using a mix of balsa, plasticard, ply and wire. He never sailed it but when I inherited it I was determined to complete it ready for it's first "sea trials". I've completed the RC installation and adjusted the ballast and it's now had two successful outings at the local boating lake.
This is one of the limited edition Sirmar kits that was produce in the early 1990’s.this model was made by a friend of mine who’s a dockyard fitter and turner it was made about twenty eight years ago. Based on a tug that I worked on in and around Portsmouth harbour. This model has a working voith unit opening engine room skylights. Working lights, removable deck hatch to get at the unit like the real boat, the superstructure and gun whales are made from plasticard. The fender was made by a friend to the same type as used on the tug. The wheelhouse is copied like for like. The towing hook is copied from photos and slips like the real one. In all my years I haven’t seen another one like this . Sirmar made twenty numbered hulls as kits .
Yep! an there's 'undreds of 'em Steve 😉 Took me most of an afternoon to do an inventory check 😁 PS: and all the superstructure and deck parts are on printed plasticard sheets! Hoooray for scroll saws 😁
Good luck Steve! I see your problem 🤔 Don't know how you want to do that with calipers😲 The radius is not constant so how do you progressively adjust the caliper / compass to match!? I would make a brass / alu template (min 2mm) to match the deck edge curve. Then you only have to mark the plank widths, at both ends, to be able to set the template for the next plank. The elegant 'T' piece on the bow I would first mark and scribe using a card or plasticard template taken from the plan. Bon chance mon ami! Cheers, Doug 😎
Hi all for the second blog report on the schnellboot I am going to go over the rudder a propeller shaft assembly in more detail. The first stage was to make the rudders which were made of brass ,and having taken note of what has been said about the increase in size needed for the kit by other members I have increased the size of the rudders by 50% so that they have more effect and hopefully the boat will be more agile .I fitted 3mm treaded rod on to the rudder and in a 4mm flanged tube to reinforce the brass rod. The second stage was to make and fit 5mm flanged tube in the location for the rudders in the boat, these were made to be above the water line and will be sealed in place to reduce the possibility of leaks. These were fitted to a rudder platform inside the boat which was fitted to the kit moulding for the rubbing strip that runs the length on the boat and secured by making resin blocks which were fitted with computer extension nuts. which were then superglue in place to secure the rudder platform. The rudders were then fitted in place and held in position with the tiller collars which were made from 8mm rod and fitted the tiller arms and locked in place with 3mm computer screws and ni-lock nuts, a connecting plate was then fitted to connect the three tillers together, I also fitted rubberised washers to seal the rudder tubes. The third stage was to make the propeller supports. The centre support was a direct copy of the kit part made of brass and fitted to the kit with a plate and screws (this plate and the rudder plate were made from galvanised steel) and will sealed with resin after the I test the boat for leaks. The port and starboard supports were made by taking the kit parts and cutting them in have along the joint line or mould seam this gave me a template ,which I used to make cross-section segments but I did alter the template by increasing the boss diameter to 10mm and extending the support legs so that the finished support could be fitted through the hull (the picture of these show the mk1 version where I forgot to allow for the 4mm prop shaft which has a 6mm tube) any way the boss of these segments were drilled out with a 7mm drill and a length of 7mm brass tube fitted through the boss to assemble the segments, all of which were coated in soldering flux at this stage of the assembly which were riveted at both ends to hold it all together during soldering, after soldering the supports were then filed to the size and shape to resemble the kit parts as close as possible and fitted to the hull using a superglue and talcum powder mix and then I cast resin around the extensions to secure the prop supports in place. The fourth stage is the propeller shaft housing for the centre propeller housing I place a brass rod in a plastic straw and place in position in hull and using resin I sealed the hull with the rod in place this gave me a pilot hole for the centre prop shaft after I removed the brass rod. For the port and starboard shafts I used the kit parts which had hole place when assembled, this when I reinforced the housings ,the centre housing I glue 2mm of plasticard on each side and for the port and starboard I made a brass tube shroud which covered the housings which left gaps between the kit part and the brass which was filled by casting resin in the gap this increased the diameter to 10 mm so that there were little chance of breaking throw with the drill and finished these off by fill-in the outside with body filler and sanded to shape and finish . I then drilled through the pilot hole in the housings using very long extended drills and a wheel brace ( if I had use a power drill the heat would have melted the plastic of the kit and may have caused problems) I drill the shaft housings out 6mm them filed them out with 6mm file so that I could insert a length of 6mm brass tube. After all this was done I fitted a flanged bush made from 7mm tube and 2mm brass plate turned to 11mm to the ends or the propeller shaft housings. And now it is time I must ask for some help could anyone advise me on the length of propeller shafts, I know I can use a 300mm shaft for the centre shaft, but port and starboard will have to be longer. and I also need advice on selecting the motors, I want to use 4mm prop shaft with 35mm propellers. Any opinions welcome.
[Score: 10/10] 35"/3000g Vosper RTTL 2754 Capable of 10mph and a runtime of 25mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 30mm) Direct Drive to a 600 brushed (3 Blade) Powered by NiCad (7.2v) 4Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Chinese 320 amp ESC - Comments: Scratch built from plan (Vic Smeed) in the mid 60s by my brother in law I have been aware of this model from the mid 90s sitting on a top shelf in disrepair in his workshop in Wales. Being a reasonable frequent visitor l had looked at the hull of this model and at the end of march on a weekend visit I offered to take the hull and separate deck home with me. I obtained a set of plans off eBay an set about renovating the hull fitting the portholes and keeping as many original bits as possible.Some new deck vents and motor vents were 3d printed by my nephew. The Davits made from plasticard and plastic tubing sadly succumbed to damage during transit so again the 3d printer was put to use deck scuttles an cabin vents were also made Whilst making the super structures and mast I decided to make two of each with the veiw to making a sister vessel but this will be finished in white more on that to follow. 2754 was duly completed ready to return on our summer trip to see family again. We ran the boat on the Teifi estuary to complete a most enjoyable refurbishment and now my great nephew will have the joy of powered model boats having been brought up with yachts both large and small
Mornin' Pete (it is in Germany anyway!) I agree, there are lots of details and 'standard equipment' missing from the basic model. You can see the winch and Life Raft canister in one of the photos of the original I posted above. Re Mast wiring; don't fiddle about putting a divider in the mast. It'll just get in the way. Attached is a pic of my modified mast. I used a 0.5mm brass wire on the right-hand side for the earth return. Wire is better than rod cos it's flexible (can be pushed into the corner). I glued it in with gel Gluper Sue WHEN all connections were soldered and tested. The LEDs are standard domed lens types. I ground the tops flat and painted the tops with several coats of matt black until it was opaque. After testing I closed off the mast with some plasticard and fitted ladder rungs made of copper wire. I also added the missing antenna cables to the bottom of the VHF IMM antennas, 0.5mm brass wire. (Some time I'll also fit the missing GPS antenna and anemometer.) Then painted the mast matt black. I then turned my attention to the searchlight and red/green NAV lights. First I stripped the wheelhouse roof and painted it white as in the original. On my model it was grey🤔 Then I drilled out the searchlight to accept a 5mm Bright White LED. You won't have to do this cos you have a later version with lights, mine had none 😭 Then had to paint the searchlight with several coats of matt black. Otherwise it just glowed all round! Pics show construction stages and finished lighting effect. All wires inside the wheelhouse roof I super glued to the ceiling and ran them down inside the funnels (stacks to you guys across the pond!😉) ready for connection to a switch board in the hull. While I was at it I rubbed the false Southampton name off the cabin using a 1000 grit Tamiya sponge and am preparing inkjet printed decals with the correct Wyeforce name and logo. Have fun getting all lit up Pete,😁 Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Attached some pics showing the original 'Southampton' 😉 and making obvious what's missing on the model 🤔
after another week of work and in-laws visiting, ive managed to get a couple of days of detailing work done on the wheelhouse structure. The local model shop parted with several bits of plasticard, plastic rods and strips of various sizes after I parted with a few quid! after alot of photo studying, I have made a fair start on adding all the detail inside the wheel house. Its not a 100% acurate, but at this scale and once painted it should show a fair representation of the Waveney class wheelhouse. There is still quite a bit of detailing to go, before I remove the major components for detail painting. Ive started to build the seat for the Coxswain. There is also alot of roof detailing to go, but all in good time!
Dropping down aft from the boat deck are the tow hooks, why there are two hooks, I have no idea, but that's what is shown on the drawing. Taking the dimensions from the drawing the main part was made up of plasticard and bits of brass tube, the two hooks were made from brass sheet and soldered together, the hoop that these run on goes through the superstructure and is fastened with nuts on the inside. To the side of the tow hooks is an exhaust with silencer, this was made out of aluminium on the lathe with bits of brass tube, also on this platform are two coal hatches, again made out of plasticard and wood with painted staples as handles.
The aft mast was made out of a teak curtain rod turned down on my metal lathe (what a mess it made, wood dust all over the place 😱) it was made in two pieces with a hole drilled up each piece to take the lighting wires. The bit to take the boom, never sure if it is a swan neck or a goose neck was made out of bits of tubing and plasticard. All the other bits and pieces came out of the scrap box. The boom was just made from a piece of dowel and stained.
The funnel was made out of 40mm plastic waste pipe, let into a piece of 3mm plasticard, thin strips of plasticard super glued around to simulate the sections. The hatch at the back made with plasticard, hinges and handles again made out of plasticard. There are four stop cocks at the front, the bodies of these were made out of aluminium on the lathe, with 1mm rod and some hand wheels out of the scrap box. There are four stays to hold the funnel and one at the top that goes to the aft mast, small hand rail knobs were used for this job. The funnel was painted (no it isn't pink, its the flash from the camera that makes it look pink) small brass tube to the steam whistle and the whistle made out of a bigger dia tube, a ladder added out of the scrap box and the completed funnel ready for fitting
I don't have any photo's of the building of this, so I will try to explain. I cut all the pieces for the wheelhouse out of 1mm plasticard, the pieces were then fitted together with masking tape to make sure that they all fitted neatly together. The windows were then cut out of Perspex and their positions marked and put aside. The floor of the wheelhouse was planked along with the rear wall, the five side pieces were then wooded (for want of a better word) light oak for the frames with teak for the infills, the windows were checked to make sure they still fitted. The whole lot was fitted together with masking tape and glue run down the seams with a small brush. After drying the outside of the wheelhouse was wooded 😁 over lapping the windows by a couple of thou, the windows were glued in place with canopy glue. Aft of the wheelhouse are the battery boxes, these were made out of plasticard with doors made out of wood, kiss buttons used for the door knobs. Two sliding doors were made out of wood, small plastic channel for the runners. The bridge was made using the same principal as the boat deck.
Have managed to get some plasticard from a local model shop and have put a strengthening bar at the front of the hull where the floor was cut out that will also act as a locating tab for the control room.
[Score: 5/10] 36"/1500g S10 Twin Propellors (3 Blade) Direct Drive to a Graupner jumbo 540 (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (6v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Mtronik (10Amps) ESC - Comments: Built from a Vic Smeed plan in 1986, fibreglass hull, wood and plasticard and plasticard superstructure and various plastic, wood and metal fittings.