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Model Boats Website Team
December 2017: 2 people November 2017: 13 people October 2017: 9 people September 2017: 15 people August 2017: 10 people July 2017: 16 people June 2017: 8 people May 2017: 8 people April 2017: 19 people
Today has seen the rudders, rudder servo, receiver and first bow bulwark fitted. First job this morning was rudders and servo. I have used a long servo arm to get as much throw as possible on the rudders and spares from my Aircraft RC box for pushrods, clevices etc. Rudders turning in correct direction with good deflections both ways. I havnt used any expo as would be the case with my aircraft figuring that smallish rudders on a big boat will need big input responces to get her to turn. will adjust at the tranny if required. Have made a good start on the bow Bulwarks. My method was a sandwich of 1.5mm ply with a 1.5mm balsa infil between. This allowed curving to the shape of the hull with ease. I have added varios bits of trim to give it some life including spruce strip reinforcments on the inside, a piece of litho plate over the hole and plasticard trim on the top surface to finish it. At this point I managed to scalpel my finger whilst triming leaving blood on the balwark!! The Bulwarks are of a sufficient thickness to allow the stanchions to be mounted ontop of the balwarks as per the real thing. Plan to finish all Bulwarks tomorrow and hopefully start adding deck details like bollards etc. Last job of the day was glossing the stanchions which are now ready to install.
Hi Welcome to the site If it's plasticard using fibreglass or paint stripper may cause it to melt. What is your intention for the hull? Can you post a pic? If the hull paint is sound you may be able to rub it down with fine wire wool and overpaint.
a job lot i have acquired contains a boat that has been constructed out of plasticard and painted red, whats the best way to recover the plasticard hull, d o I strip it or just rub the paint down cover it with fibre glass😡? (never come across the card build before) *** Thanks will try the paint job***
So today has been a good day of progress. spent the morning giving the superstructure a couple of coats of sanding sealer with plenty of sanding inbetween. Have then spent the rest of the day making a good start on the detailing which included most of the plasticard window frames, roof nav light housings, most of the hatches, marking and drilling the holes for the stanchions, adding a brass exhaust on the side, drilling and loose mounting the radar and a few other bits n bobs. Tomorrow afternoon should see the bulk of the detailing finished less any metal work i.e stanchions and all the roof metalwork which will be added after painting.
Just finished building the basic superstructure. Dont worry about the enlarged window openings, they will be reduced in size to scale once the plasticard frames are installed along with the wiper pieces above the fore windows. I still have alot of filling, sanding, sealing ect to go before painting and adding the abundance of scale detail I intend putting on. I havnt bothered fitting the rear stowage bin shown on the plan as pictures of real ones generally show it not fitted. I also have a plan of scribing the bottom line of the superstructure to match the outline of the hull which will then have a spruce strip alplied to give a near perfect match between hull and cabin.
I was wondering how long it would be before someone spotted "sammy dog"! He loves watching ha! Temp workshop is now back to conservatory mode now before "mrs H" gets home! My workbench in my workshop was designed for aircraft modelling, in the conservatory I can 360 degree around the boat for ease of working. Last thing tonight was to temp fitrudder (will be shortened, widened, and will have scale strakes fitted. The rear bollard was made from scrap box plasticard and plastic tube, cost -free!
Hi Wayne I was not underestimating the capabilities, just pointing out that the hobby machines are small and not intended for printing large flat areas. Wood/Plasticard and Fibreglass are far better suited and much quicker for such jobs. If you really wanted such a job it would be better done professionally on an epoxy type industrial machine, might be a bit expensive, but then again at £20 per reel your costs must be escalating. Looking forward to the finished craft Dave
My current build is the precedent Prekasa;but this applies to many other PT type boats. The Perkasa is awash with various sizes and shapes of lockers;If you look online there are many choices ( at a choice price!),and they are rarely exactly what you want anyway. I have been making these lockers out of any old scrap of wood,cut to size and shape,covered in 0.5 / 1mm plasticard,hinges and hasps etc.made from a huge pack of profiles direct from china.Sand and prime with etching primer ,and the result is quick,easy,and exactly the style you want for next to no money!
Hi Graham Thank you. It's amazing how the apparently cheap and cheerful stuff works. Since my original post I have been trying Wilko's Heavy Duty All Purpose adhesive. It's a spray on contact adhesive and costs £5 for a 500ml can. Tests show that it sticks like the proverbial and doesn't affect the plasticard. Steve
I had previously assembled and primed the anchor, having added a little additional detail to the white metal castings, as described in a previous blog update. I subsequently added some plasticard pieces to the arm of the anchor to thicken it slightly so that I could fit a small brass shackle as a finishing detail. The final paint finish is Tamiya gunmetal metallic to match some other deck fittings. The anchor is held in place on the foredeck by a small double sided adhesive foam pad beneath the anchor base and the mounting pad it sits on. The base and arm is also retained on two other mounting pads buy couple of ‘staples’ that were formed by heating and bending some thin Plasticard rod into shape and they are just a push fit into some holes drilled into the mounting pads. The fixings are quite secure but as with many other items of deck furniture it can be easily removed for maintenance or repair. Sorry this is not a particularly exciting or interesting post but the next will be the suction hoses and fittings which were quite a challenge and will hopefully be a great deal less boring 😜
I had previously made and tested the lighting pcb but I subsequently decided to modify it to take some 2 pin Molex connectors, they have the same hole spacing as the Veroboard PCB and are polarised and will make the final wiring a little easier and a lot neater too 👍 All the lighting wires were formed into colour coded twisted pairs and tacked in place within the wheelhouse with some epoxy and then overpainted black where they were conspicuous. The PCB is fixed to the bulkhead on PCB spacers and all the wiring retained by a cable tie on a self-adhesive base. The two Turnigy R/C controlled switches were mounted on a plasticard plate with double sided foam tape and then this plate secured to the bulkhead with a self tapping screw. The battery connections and common negative connection to the R/C receiver battery are on Molex connectors as well. The battery was fitted with XT60 connectors and secured to the keel with cable ties through some screwed eyelets. The port, starboard, forward blue and mast lights are on one switched circuit and the searchlight on a separate switched circuit. The searchlight also rotates on it's own servo channel. The result is a nice tidy installation which can easily be removed for servicing and modification if required 😎
I found this 1/4 scale Winston/Hank head in a local model shop for £3.50. Needless to say I glued the front & back together &reinforced inside the head with plasticard. When set I chopped his head off & Dremel'd off the headphones & head strap. I've just filled the resultant gaps & strengthened around the chin & neck area with Milliput. Best leave it until tomorrow to harden up, I may just need to Milliput inside the hair line as I'm guessing I'll have to grind his hair away to fit his head in a helmet.