Hi Welcome to the site If it's plasticard using fibreglass or paint stripper may cause it to melt. What is your intention for the hull? Can you post a pic? If the hull paint is sound you may be able to rub it down with fine wire wool and overpaint.
a job lot i have acquired contains a boat that has been constructed out of plasticard and painted red, whats the best way to recover the plasticard hull, d o I strip it or just rub the paint down cover it with fibre glass😡? (never come across the card build before) *** Thanks will try the paint job***
So today has been a good day of progress. spent the morning giving the superstructure a couple of coats of sanding sealer with plenty of sanding inbetween. Have then spent the rest of the day making a good start on the detailing which included most of the plasticard window frames, roof nav light housings, most of the hatches, marking and drilling the holes for the stanchions, adding a brass exhaust on the side, drilling and loose mounting the radar and a few other bits n bobs. Tomorrow afternoon should see the bulk of the detailing finished less any metal work i.e stanchions and all the roof metalwork which will be added after painting.
Just finished building the basic superstructure. Dont worry about the enlarged window openings, they will be reduced in size to scale once the plasticard frames are installed along with the wiper pieces above the fore windows. I still have alot of filling, sanding, sealing ect to go before painting and adding the abundance of scale detail I intend putting on. I havnt bothered fitting the rear stowage bin shown on the plan as pictures of real ones generally show it not fitted. I also have a plan of scribing the bottom line of the superstructure to match the outline of the hull which will then have a spruce strip alplied to give a near perfect match between hull and cabin.
I was wondering how long it would be before someone spotted "sammy dog"! He loves watching ha! Temp workshop is now back to conservatory mode now before "mrs H" gets home! My workbench in my workshop was designed for aircraft modelling, in the conservatory I can 360 degree around the boat for ease of working. Last thing tonight was to temp fitrudder (will be shortened, widened, and will have scale strakes fitted. The rear bollard was made from scrap box plasticard and plastic tube, cost -free!
Hi Wayne I was not underestimating the capabilities, just pointing out that the hobby machines are small and not intended for printing large flat areas. Wood/Plasticard and Fibreglass are far better suited and much quicker for such jobs. If you really wanted such a job it would be better done professionally on an epoxy type industrial machine, might be a bit expensive, but then again at £20 per reel your costs must be escalating. Looking forward to the finished craft Dave
My current build is the precedent Prekasa;but this applies to many other PT type boats. The Perkasa is awash with various sizes and shapes of lockers;If you look online there are many choices ( at a choice price!),and they are rarely exactly what you want anyway. I have been making these lockers out of any old scrap of wood,cut to size and shape,covered in 0.5 / 1mm plasticard,hinges and hasps etc.made from a huge pack of profiles direct from china.Sand and prime with etching primer ,and the result is quick,easy,and exactly the style you want for next to no money!
Hi Graham Thank you. It's amazing how the apparently cheap and cheerful stuff works. Since my original post I have been trying Wilko's Heavy Duty All Purpose adhesive. It's a spray on contact adhesive and costs £5 for a 500ml can. Tests show that it sticks like the proverbial and doesn't affect the plasticard. Steve
I had previously assembled and primed the anchor, having added a little additional detail to the white metal castings, as described in a previous blog update. I subsequently added some plasticard pieces to the arm of the anchor to thicken it slightly so that I could fit a small brass shackle as a finishing detail. The final paint finish is Tamiya gunmetal metallic to match some other deck fittings. The anchor is held in place on the foredeck by a small double sided adhesive foam pad beneath the anchor base and the mounting pad it sits on. The base and arm is also retained on two other mounting pads buy couple of ‘staples’ that were formed by heating and bending some thin Plasticard rod into shape and they are just a push fit into some holes drilled into the mounting pads. The fixings are quite secure but as with many other items of deck furniture it can be easily removed for maintenance or repair. Sorry this is not a particularly exciting or interesting post but the next will be the suction hoses and fittings which were quite a challenge and will hopefully be a great deal less boring 😜
I had previously made and tested the lighting pcb but I subsequently decided to modify it to take some 2 pin Molex connectors, they have the same hole spacing as the Veroboard PCB and are polarised and will make the final wiring a little easier and a lot neater too 👍 All the lighting wires were formed into colour coded twisted pairs and tacked in place within the wheelhouse with some epoxy and then overpainted black where they were conspicuous. The PCB is fixed to the bulkhead on PCB spacers and all the wiring retained by a cable tie on a self-adhesive base. The two Turnigy R/C controlled switches were mounted on a plasticard plate with double sided foam tape and then this plate secured to the bulkhead with a self tapping screw. The battery connections and common negative connection to the R/C receiver battery are on Molex connectors as well. The battery was fitted with XT60 connectors and secured to the keel with cable ties through some screwed eyelets. The port, starboard, forward blue and mast lights are on one switched circuit and the searchlight on a separate switched circuit. The searchlight also rotates on it's own servo channel. The result is a nice tidy installation which can easily be removed for servicing and modification if required 😎
I found this 1/4 scale Winston/Hank head in a local model shop for £3.50. Needless to say I glued the front & back together &reinforced inside the head with plasticard. When set I chopped his head off & Dremel'd off the headphones & head strap. I've just filled the resultant gaps & strengthened around the chin & neck area with Milliput. Best leave it until tomorrow to harden up, I may just need to Milliput inside the hair line as I'm guessing I'll have to grind his hair away to fit his head in a helmet.
There is a white metal ‘ring’ supplied in the kit for the Kent Clearview screen but it is too large and doesn’t look particularly ‘scale’. So after some research on the web and some help from other forum members I found enough information to make one from scratch. The outer ring was made from a narrow section of pvc pipe that I had to hand and this was cut to length in a mitre block and then sanded down to the right thickness on some abrasive paper and then sprayed matt black. I didn’t use the perspex screen supplied in the kit as the hole was too large but the small circular cut-out piece was the right diameter to fit into the ring that I made, the new screen was cut from a new piece of perspex sheet and a hole drilled through the centre to locate the rotating part of the screen. The parts were assembled onto the new screen using canopy glue applied very sparingly with a dressmaking pin. The motor drive assembly on the inside of the screen and the black triangular part that sits on the outside of the screen were made from some black plasticard and these parts were also fixed in place with canopy glue. I used a brass panel pin with the head filed down and painted black for the central bearing of the screen but when I applied a very small amount of canopy glue to fix it capillary action unexpectedly drew the glue between the two ‘panes’ of perspex 😡 Not what I wanted to happen but I decided to leave it to dry to it’s clear state and then assess the situation. Fortunately the glue is not too conspicuous to be much of a concern but it is nevertheless an unwanted blemish that I will have to accept 😭 The finished piece was then glued into the wheelhouse with a few dots of canopy glue and looks quite good as long as you don’t look too closely 😎