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>> Home > Tags > plasticard

Chine stringers by mturpin013 Lieutenant   Posted: 8 days ago
Its all material I had lying around in my workshop, I never throw anything away so you can imagine the amount of "stuff" I have in my basement. The Yellow angle brackets are made of old neighbourhood watch signs they are made of 1/4" plasticard

happy hunter by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Spitfire With plasticard it helps to heat in warm water when forming curves. Make a wooden (Balsa) template heat the plasticard, bend to shape and hold in place until cool. I recommend you use MEK plastic adhesive with plasticard, the merest touch will allow capillary action to carry the liquid between the joints, I use a fine (old) paint brush. The glue is quick drying and actually welds the joint. Like superglue a little is best, too much and you risk melting the whole job.

£4" RAF Crash Tender Window Frames by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 29 days ago
If you have a decent vinyl cutter you can use use it with the correct knife to cut up to 1.5mm plasticard. For window frames this works well and I have seen a complete wheelhouse cut using this method. You may need to use a scalpel to free some of the cuts but it does produce very accurate results and is repeatable.

£4" RAF Crash Tender Window Frames by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 29 days ago
I was lucky with my 4 foot boat, I had a milling machine, but with thew 3 footer, I used plasticard and cut out by hand with a sharp knife. The problem with the earlier aerokits boats, the windows are never quite the same boat to boat, so you end up with a thick profile frame to cover over any discrepancies, if you know what I mean. The fitting set at slec looks a bit expensive at £35....🤔

£4" RAF Crash Tender Window Frames by pmdent Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 30 days ago
Paul, thanks for the reply - I was hoping to avoid the "fiddly" but guess I am going to have to give it a go. Thanks for clarity on No. 93 only having eyebrows over cabin windows - so many pics "models" on the website seem to show frames on all windows ! Now to the nitty gritty - I don't have milling capability so do you think I can get a reasonable result with fret saw/file and plasticard? What thickness should I use? Thanks - Peter

£4" RAF Crash Tender Window Frames by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 30 days ago
Hi Peter, its only the wheelhouse that has frames, sides, screen, and the two rear windows. The cabins didnt have any, other than brows over the top of the front two, the style differs depending on it being 93 or 94. I made my own from plasticard, very fiddly but worth it

Al KHUBAR 2 by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Yes but the centre part of back deck on the Al Khubar is removable so you can get to the rudders and motor couplings. The instructions suggest a close fitting sheet of plasticard will suffice. Didn't for me as the deck get very wet even in calm waters. Hope you have better luck than me.

Bulwarks - and 1st blood! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Today has seen the rudders, rudder servo, receiver and first bow bulwark fitted. First job this morning was rudders and servo. I have used a long servo arm to get as much throw as possible on the rudders and spares from my Aircraft RC box for pushrods, clevices etc. Rudders turning in correct direction with good deflections both ways. I havnt used any expo as would be the case with my aircraft figuring that smallish rudders on a big boat will need big input responces to get her to turn. will adjust at the tranny if required. Have made a good start on the bow Bulwarks. My method was a sandwich of 1.5mm ply with a 1.5mm balsa infil between. This allowed curving to the shape of the hull with ease. I have added varios bits of trim to give it some life including spruce strip reinforcments on the inside, a piece of litho plate over the hole and plasticard trim on the top surface to finish it. At this point I managed to scalpel my finger whilst triming leaving blood on the balwark!! The Bulwarks are of a sufficient thickness to allow the stanchions to be mounted ontop of the balwarks as per the real thing. Plan to finish all Bulwarks tomorrow and hopefully start adding deck details like bollards etc. Last job of the day was glossing the stanchions which are now ready to install.

Windscreen wipers by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Had an hour today when the “mrs” went shopping. Front windscreen wipers made from strip wood, brass rod and plasticard.

Plasticard boats by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi Welcome to the site If it's plasticard using fibreglass or paint stripper may cause it to melt. What is your intention for the hull? Can you post a pic? If the hull paint is sound you may be able to rub it down with fine wire wool and overpaint.

Plasticard boats by dave-of-the-yard Seaman   Posted: 4 months ago
a job lot i have acquired contains a boat that has been constructed out of plasticard and painted red, whats the best way to recover the plasticard hull, d o I strip it or just rub the paint down cover it with fibre glass😡? (never come across the card build before) *** Thanks will try the paint job***

Adding superstructure detail by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
So today has been a good day of progress. spent the morning giving the superstructure a couple of coats of sanding sealer with plenty of sanding inbetween. Have then spent the rest of the day making a good start on the detailing which included most of the plasticard window frames, roof nav light housings, most of the hatches, marking and drilling the holes for the stanchions, adding a brass exhaust on the side, drilling and loose mounting the radar and a few other bits n bobs. Tomorrow afternoon should see the bulk of the detailing finished less any metal work i.e stanchions and all the roof metalwork which will be added after painting.

Superstructure built by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Just finished building the basic superstructure. Dont worry about the enlarged window openings, they will be reduced in size to scale once the plasticard frames are installed along with the wiper pieces above the fore windows. I still have alot of filling, sanding, sealing ect to go before painting and adding the abundance of scale detail I intend putting on. I havnt bothered fitting the rear stowage bin shown on the plan as pictures of real ones generally show it not fitted. I also have a plan of scribing the bottom line of the superstructure to match the outline of the hull which will then have a spruce strip alplied to give a near perfect match between hull and cabin.

Progress! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
I was wondering how long it would be before someone spotted "sammy dog"! He loves watching ha! Temp workshop is now back to conservatory mode now before "mrs H" gets home! My workbench in my workshop was designed for aircraft modelling, in the conservatory I can 360 degree around the boat for ease of working. Last thing tonight was to temp fitrudder (will be shortened, widened, and will have scale strakes fitted. The rear bollard was made from scrap box plasticard and plastic tube, cost -free!

Graf Spee 1:20 !! All aboard ;-) by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Hi Wayne I was not underestimating the capabilities, just pointing out that the hobby machines are small and not intended for printing large flat areas. Wood/Plasticard and Fibreglass are far better suited and much quicker for such jobs. If you really wanted such a job it would be better done professionally on an epoxy type industrial machine, might be a bit expensive, but then again at £20 per reel your costs must be escalating. Looking forward to the finished craft Dave