My current build is the precedent Prekasa;but this applies to many other PT type boats. The Perkasa is awash with various sizes and shapes of lockers;If you look online there are many choices ( at a choice price!),and they are rarely exactly what you want anyway. I have been making these lockers out of any old scrap of wood,cut to size and shape,covered in 0.5 / 1mm plasticard,hinges and hasps etc.made from a huge pack of profiles direct from china.Sand and prime with etching primer ,and the result is quick,easy,and exactly the style you want for next to no money!
Hi Graham Thank you. It's amazing how the apparently cheap and cheerful stuff works. Since my original post I have been trying Wilko's Heavy Duty All Purpose adhesive. It's a spray on contact adhesive and costs £5 for a 500ml can. Tests show that it sticks like the proverbial and doesn't affect the plasticard. Steve
I had previously assembled and primed the anchor, having added a little additional detail to the white metal castings, as described in a previous blog update. I subsequently added some plasticard pieces to the arm of the anchor to thicken it slightly so that I could fit a small brass shackle as a finishing detail. The final paint finish is Tamiya gunmetal metallic to match some other deck fittings. The anchor is held in place on the foredeck by a small double sided adhesive foam pad beneath the anchor base and the mounting pad it sits on. The base and arm is also retained on two other mounting pads buy couple of ‘staples’ that were formed by heating and bending some thin Plasticard rod into shape and they are just a push fit into some holes drilled into the mounting pads. The fixings are quite secure but as with many other items of deck furniture it can be easily removed for maintenance or repair. Sorry this is not a particularly exciting or interesting post but the next will be the suction hoses and fittings which were quite a challenge and will hopefully be a great deal less boring 😜
I had previously made and tested the lighting pcb but I subsequently decided to modify it to take some 2 pin Molex connectors, they have the same hole spacing as the Veroboard PCB and are polarised and will make the final wiring a little easier and a lot neater too 👍 All the lighting wires were formed into colour coded twisted pairs and tacked in place within the wheelhouse with some epoxy and then overpainted black where they were conspicuous. The PCB is fixed to the bulkhead on PCB spacers and all the wiring retained by a cable tie on a self-adhesive base. The two Turnigy R/C controlled switches were mounted on a plasticard plate with double sided foam tape and then this plate secured to the bulkhead with a self tapping screw. The battery connections and common negative connection to the R/C receiver battery are on Molex connectors as well. The battery was fitted with XT60 connectors and secured to the keel with cable ties through some screwed eyelets. The port, starboard, forward blue and mast lights are on one switched circuit and the searchlight on a separate switched circuit. The searchlight also rotates on it's own servo channel. The result is a nice tidy installation which can easily be removed for servicing and modification if required 😎
I found this 1/4 scale Winston/Hank head in a local model shop for £3.50. Needless to say I glued the front & back together &reinforced inside the head with plasticard. When set I chopped his head off & Dremel'd off the headphones & head strap. I've just filled the resultant gaps & strengthened around the chin & neck area with Milliput. Best leave it until tomorrow to harden up, I may just need to Milliput inside the hair line as I'm guessing I'll have to grind his hair away to fit his head in a helmet.
There is a white metal ‘ring’ supplied in the kit for the Kent Clearview screen but it is too large and doesn’t look particularly ‘scale’. So after some research on the web and some help from other forum members I found enough information to make one from scratch. The outer ring was made from a narrow section of pvc pipe that I had to hand and this was cut to length in a mitre block and then sanded down to the right thickness on some abrasive paper and then sprayed matt black. I didn’t use the perspex screen supplied in the kit as the hole was too large but the small circular cut-out piece was the right diameter to fit into the ring that I made, the new screen was cut from a new piece of perspex sheet and a hole drilled through the centre to locate the rotating part of the screen. The parts were assembled onto the new screen using canopy glue applied very sparingly with a dressmaking pin. The motor drive assembly on the inside of the screen and the black triangular part that sits on the outside of the screen were made from some black plasticard and these parts were also fixed in place with canopy glue. I used a brass panel pin with the head filed down and painted black for the central bearing of the screen but when I applied a very small amount of canopy glue to fix it capillary action unexpectedly drew the glue between the two ‘panes’ of perspex 😡 Not what I wanted to happen but I decided to leave it to dry to it’s clear state and then assess the situation. Fortunately the glue is not too conspicuous to be much of a concern but it is nevertheless an unwanted blemish that I will have to accept 😭 The finished piece was then glued into the wheelhouse with a few dots of canopy glue and looks quite good as long as you don’t look too closely 😎
Dave Looks to be well made. I would ask Maritime as they may have experience of using the unit. It rather looks like the gears are carried on brass/Bronze shafts with similar bearings mounted in the ali side plates. Whatever you use you will need to keep any grit etc out of the mechanism. A simple removable plasticard cover would help. A spot of light machine oil (not 3-in-one) on each bearing before each sail would be my guess. Sewing machine and model train shops sell light oils. But do ask the supplier. Cheers Dave
Doug, that looks lovely. I can't guarantee the performance would be anything but sedate with the Target, but that kind of boat in the real world would rarely be seen exceeding about 10 knots if that. It's essentially a river boat. I would be inclined to keep with the scheme it has as it's nicely period with the off white. Maybe line the deck with a Rotring a la period too and veneer the coach house sides. I certainly wouldn't strip it as there'll be joints and filler and boring old plywood underneath. No, paint is the Aerokits look for sure Delamination needs only epoxy, either the repair and build stuff or the liquid a la West, SP, etc.. slide a knife in the delamination and convince some epoxy in, then lightly clamp it twixt layers of greaseproof paper (when the GF's out) or plastic bag or similar. I use Plastikard, but I was given a box of lasered off cuts by Ivan at the Vintage Boat Company. He's now sold out to SLEC who are even nearer where I live! Anyway I have plasticard in three thicknesses to waste. If you stroke the surface with a scriber, it will make a weird hollow noise if delaminated. If it is, make a cut, persuade the edges up and insinuate some epoxy into the crack you've made. Ain't nuttn. you can't repair. You should have seen the window frames in my house when I sold it. A festival of epoxy, firewood and P38 car filler. Surveyor passed it with barely a look. Reallygood paint saved the day. Stupid waster! 400 quid Mr. Client, chching! As for the extra gizmos, I'd ditch them to save weight and complexity. You might find a 3 blade prop works better, but I'm no expert there. Finally instead of "this belongs to", I'd simply name her Jessica, in a nice script. I hope that helps. Cheers, Martin
I need to make the foam tanks as two separately removable items to allow the deck to be removed for access to the rudder servo etc. The most intricate part of the foam tanks is undoubtedly the gratings that go over the top of them, fortunately there is a ready-made grating available that makes their construction unnecessary 👍👍. I bought this from modellingtimbers.co.uk, the grating ’WG7’ that they supply is dimensionally perfect for the job and can be easily assembled into the shape required. The casing for the foam tanks was made from a combination of materials, the base is 4mm ply, the back is 2mm ply, the front and sides are 2mm plasticard and the top is 1.5mm plasticard. The grating panel was assembled to the correct length and width for the scale and bordered with some 3mm x 4mm mahogany strip, the grating does not run the full length of the foam tanks and there is a plain section to the rear which will be a plasticard infill. The wood and plastic panels were all cut by knife and only needed the edges trued up with a small plane. All the joints were fixed with superglue with a reinforcing piece on the inside of the joint for strength. At all stages the assembly was checked for square and size and dry fitted in the deck well to check for fit. The grating panel was sanded to a smooth finish and a light mahogany stain applied to just the outer mahogany frame as I quite liked the contrast between the light and the dark woods, they were then sprayed with several coats of satin lacquer and set aside to dry. Before glueing the tank tops in place some short bracing pieces were fitted for rigidity. The tanks were given a rub down with fine abrasive paper as a key and sprayed with two light coats of grey primer and then a final paint finish of BS631 RAF Light Grey, the same as the rest of the superstructure. The two infill panels were painted the same and then epoxied into the grating panels. Before fixing the gratings to the top of the tanks some mahogany trim was applied to the tank sides. I need to devise a method of holding the tanks in place on the deck, probably with some of those small but tenacious little magnets that can be let into the bases of the tanks and concealed on the underside of the deck panel. I’ll need to make the suction hoses soon and that will involve a bit a brass turning by ’you know who’ so I’d better get busy with some engineering drawing for the man with the lathe 😉
The davit needs some modification to attach it to the boat and some extra bits to improve it’s looks so the first thing to do was file off the casting marks and fill some of the hollows in the white metal surface. The false winch block part of the casting was removed from the upper end and a slot cut into the casting to take the hook of a brass tackle block which was secured with a brass hinge pin. A couple of plasticard cheeks were then added to the sides of the winch mechanism and a crank handle added too. The most difficult part was devising a means to attach the davit to the cabin wall that would allow it to swivel out over the deck from it’s ‘parked’ position. This also had to be easily removable so that the centre deck can be removed for access to the motor compartment. First the davit attachment points were modified by filing a deeper recess into the casting and the tabs drilled with a 2mm bit for the hinge bolts. I used the earth pin from a mains plug filed down to fit into the casting recess to act as a hinge block, the ends were drilled and tapped with a 2mm thread for the hinge pin bolts. The hinge block was then drilled and tapped to take a 3mm fixing stud and also a plain 2mm locating pin and then mounted on a plasticard mount and spacer to give the davit clearance to swing out and clear the cut-out in the engine room roof. The ‘foot’ of the davit was also modified from square to semi-circular to clear the cabin wall as it rotates. The whole assembly was etch primed and brush painted in ‘gun metal’ grey. Finally a lifting hook and rope was attached to the winch mechanism. The cabin wall was drilled with a locating pin hole and another for the 3mm fixing stud, the attachment is by a wing nut to allow quick and easy removal and re-fitting when required. The finished davit now looks a million times better and is also partially functional 😁. The build is nearing completion now and I hope that you are enjoying reading my blog as much as I am writing it, please let me know if it's getting boring though, all comments welcome...good or bad 😜.
As supplied, the tow hook consists of two rather ugly lumps of metal that need to be coupled together, and a further piece, the ‘chafing plate’ which is not supplied, made to complete the fitting. I started be adding some detail to the main component in the form of some steel rod to represent the lever mechanism and operating handle. The body of the tow hook then has to be attached to the retaining plate with an articulated coupling which I made from some brass tube, copper wire and a 2mm nut & bolt. The retaining plate was also drilled to take some 2mm cap head screws for fixing through the tow hook deck. The finished piece, which now looks a bit more like the drawings and photographs, was brush painted in ‘gun metal’ grey and a piece if heat shrink added to the handle as a grip. The chafing plate was formed from some 4mm square plasticard rod which was immersed in boiling water to soften it sufficiently for it to be bent to the required radius. The bending process unfortunately distorts the profile so this was restored and improved by rubbing it flat on some coarse abrasive paper. A piece of plasticard sheet was marked and cut to a corresponding radius to form the base of the chafing plate and some further plasticard wedges added to form the end stops. This piece was also pained gun metal grey. The chafing plate is fixed to the deck with 2 cap head screws and I also set a brass pin into the centre position which locates into a hole in the underside of the tow hook to hold it in place. Next on the list of fittings is the davit 😁