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Model Boats Website Team
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Wooden structure model fishing boats. Was done on his knee at home in the kitchen from the remnants of plywood, balsa etc. Motor 1 pc 600 with water cooling, 1pc battery NiCd 3000 mA. Excellent handling characteristics. Even though it was not good at handling the water looks great.
I have been looking for some thin flat timber for another project for some time and ended up on Ebay. Then another thought have a look down the local tip seems I spend A lot of time there but I don.t I Just look about when throwing out something that I can Not give away on freecycle. Anyway looking through the paints again Yep bought 4 small tins Assorted colours. £1 and tripped over a window blind that was left leaning against the wall. Picked it up and realized it was a wooden blind. And Guess what it was wood constructed with thin strips and NOT plywood.A little under 3 mm thick and 25mm wide. I guess ripped down into very small strips it would be Ideal for those that make wooden boats or even strip wood hulls. So yet another £1 spent. and stored away for later use. I guess buying something like this from elsewhere could cost a small fortune. I am thinking that your local freecycle website may also be a place to look..For free wooden blinds.
Motor yacht : Barracuda Length: 905 mm Width: 145 mm Material: poplar plywood 3mm, balsa standard 1 mm, 1 mm linden wood, laminate fabric 120gr and 43gr. Engine: Mig 480 7.2V bidirectional DC 7.4V regulator Propeller 35 mm Graupner spruce strips 2x6mm https://youtu.be/c3CPk-lIo0A https://youtu.be/w9q2ndTFccc
There are acetate sheets available for modellers. Many of my earlier Aerokit models used this but over the years the UV light causes the acetate to turn yellow. I have some more recent supplies that could be acrylic. I have never seen any with tinting. From my own experience some plastic takes to spilt ink etc very well so you may be able to tint your own with a very weak Dylon type tint. Commercially photographic studios use acrylic plastic sheets which are UV safe. If you can source a supply that is thin enough for the scale of the model you are building this works well. I have used on my Sea Queen to good effect as it is the same thickness as the plywood frame.
I'm nearing the stage when I need to consider the painting process and as I intend to do all the painting in the workshop where I can control temperature and humidity I really don't want overspray and dust going everywhere so I am going to construct a ventilated and lit spray booth big enough to take the model. But first I made a simple spraying turntable to avoid handling the smaller items while painting. I bought a 'lazy susan' bearing from eBay and mounted it on a plywood base and then used an old circular chipboard side table top as the platform. Quick and inexpensive to make but it should make spraying smaller parts a bit easier. In the last picture is the fan unit that will go in the roof of the booth. Next...... making the spray booth.
[Score: 9/10] 27"/4000g Nortlight Clyde Puffer Single Propellor (3 Blade 35mm) Geared to a MFA (3 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (6v) 4Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Viper Marine 15 (15Amps) ESC - Comments: The Clyde Puffer is a Caldercraft kit of 1:32 scale. It is a representative model of a typical small coaster from the Western Isles of Scotland, known to many ship lovers as a 'Clyde Puffer'. It has a GRP hull which has full external detail, riveting, strakes etc. and a plywood superstructure and decking plus over 200 white metal fittings. As usual for Caldercraft you need to have your thinking cap on as the A0 plan and the 'instruction book' do not match up but of course they do expect you to have a little bit of experience in model building. It has taken me about 6 months to build, but working on and off over this time. It has a large hull which is easy to house the motor, ESC, RC and batteries, etc. (I installed 2 lead acid 6 volt batteries, one on each side amidships) which gives stability and ballast. Being a large deep hull it needs a lot of ballast, even in its short length. I have only tested her in the big white test tank at home so do not know how it will perform on our lake. I have sailed her many times on our lake and she certainly sails well. I installed an electronic switch for the navigation lights and gives a good effect during the darker afternoons/evening.
Kit built but I scrapped the plywood for mahogany as I wanted something in the "Riva" Style. Powered by a 1000kv brushless on 11.1v, its quick across the water and very stable. I sail with the Potteries MBC in Stoke.
Hi Ed. Had a bit of a disastrous day. Getting the boats ready for my weekly sail I broke the main mast on my yawl - my pride and joy! Showing my friend the progress on the pilot boat I noticed that I had not fitted one side properly. This was due to the shaping around the bow, so you are right to be concerned. I spent the morning unpicking the glue before it cured and making the best of a bad job by re sticking. Things couldn't get much worse when I ran out of glue before I finished. I hope I can redeem the situation! How I long for the old days of wooden construction when the bow was shaped out of a block of balsa and the plywood sides were steamed into shape before fixing them with Cascamite and brass pins. I will let you know my progress but I wouldn't blame you if you decided not to go ahead. Steve
[Score: 5/10] 30" Offshore Patrol Boat Single Propellor (2 Blade S Type 35mm) Direct Drive Powered by NiMH (7.2v) Batteries - Comments: Acquired for the cost of a cup of coffee from an auto jumble I cannot identify exactly what it is but is very close in design to a US Packard off shore patrol boat. New cabin constructed using some bits salvaged from the original as most of the plywood on the superstructure had delaminated.
[Score: 8/10] 46" PRECEDENT HUNTSMAN 31 Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 20mins Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type 50mm) Direct Drive to a AQUASTAR 3974 2200kv (2 Blade X Type) Powered by LiPoly (14.8v) 5Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through AQUASTAR 120 (110Amps) ESC - Comments: Christmas present in 2009 taken a long time to put together.Good fibreglass moulding but poor quality light plywood. Have upgraded final look using photos from net based on actual boat 100% Proof. Should launch this summer 2016.
HI Ed, your problems continue!!!! you need a contour plate, its got thin spines that slide to get a shape, once you have decided where to support the hull, to protect the prop and rudder, approx 1/3 2/3 bow to stern, take the plate and press the splines gently against the hull, this will give you the contour to draw onto stiff card, cut out and make a mirror copy, this will give you the template to mark onto your chosen wood, cut out with a bandsaw or a jigsaw. I use 10mm plywood, with mahogany veneer, several coats of varnish, sanded between coats, with support rails between uprights, screwed and glued together. Protect the hull with foam lagging. When cutting allow for the foams thickness. Mark