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>> Home > Tags > plywood

plywood
plywood
spares please by BigChris Seaman   Posted: 1 day ago
I recently acquired a Mantua Bruma part kit off e-bay. The three sheets containing the laser cut hull frames are missing. Can you buy these sheets from anywhere or does anyone by any chance have these sheets lying around. I have a full set of plans. The alternative would be to cut out new frames using the plan as a template. What technique/tools would it be most adviseable to use to cut the plywood

1st Gunwhale stringers by Ron Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
This boat looks like it will be very heavy using those plywood bulkheads.

Dumas 1203 Coast Guard Lifeboat (RNLI Waveney conversion) by Bobatsea Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 8 days ago
Agreed. The plywood is poorly stamped and requires much sanding. The Canadian 44 had an enclosed cabin, so for me I've scratched build the cabin and didn't use any of the supplied wood for it.

Riva boat launch by Alan999 Lieutenant   Posted: 11 days ago
Riva was finally launched in the Torrevieja boat clubs water last Sunday after eleven months work. Fifteen coats of yacht varnish and final Polish of Turtle wax she went like a dream.Plans came from America and the plywood from local woodyard.Graupner 37 motor pushed 31 inches smoothly. Dumas supplied the chrome fittings

Clyde puffer by Alan999 Lieutenant   Posted: 24 days ago
Hi Marky Plans came yesterday. I think it's what I want and will copy and put on plywood. Many thanks Alan

Marblehead Sailboat upgraded by Ron Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
My friend bought this sailboat build in 1996 along with 15 other boats at Port Credit, Ontario. My friend Ewald Bengel and his brother Fred, bought the sailboat with R/C equipped, but older Futaba AM but usable. The boat needed structural reinforcements, several new bulkheads, R/R rudder block and repair the rudder. They are not racing the boat intending to keep it at their summer home on the lake. They had me add a Birch plywood deck and hatchway. Progress is being made.

Riva Chris Craft by Alan999 Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Finally the Riva completed. Numerous varnishing and rubbing down Dumas sent from America chrome fittings which gives really good finishing touch Built from plans and scrap plywood and veneer. So much more pleasure making than from kit. Will launch at Torrevieja boat club second Sunday of the month .

TRIUMPH (CG-52301) USCG Type F MLB by circle43nautical Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Laser cut kit from Barracuda RC Boats, N Carolina, USA. Baltic birch plywood false keel, ribs/frames, hull sheathing, deck and cabins. No formal plans; I was able to source a handful of B&W archival photos from the USCG website. Fortunately I was able to procure a motherload of archival photos and a few hard to read layout drawings from Mr. Timothy Dring, LCDR, USN (Ret.). He is co-author of "American Coastal Rescue Craft", which is the "bible" if you will, of such. I do sometimes thank the internet. I am certain that without his assistance, my efforts on this wouldn't have been as enjoyable. The kit was also void of fittings, which I was aware of prior to purchase, so I invested in a 3D printer. That I've used to a limited degree, due to searching for parts in the correct file format is mind-numbing! I have globally sourced fittings; USA, UK, ASIA. As a matter of fact, the searchlights I got from this Model Boat Shop were 3D printed, and I was able to fit 5mm LEDs into them. I'd like to get a couple more and put some superbright 12v LED drone lamps in them for use on my 35" towboat. Many deck fittings are handmade when possible, the cleats and fairleads are from Cornwall Boats, UK. (Very reasonable & diverse source, if you didn't already know.) I try to keep wood natural when detail allows it, as I never have enjoyed painting over natural grain. Her decks are covered with 1/16" scribed basswood sheathing from earthandtree.com, which is normally used for wainscoting dollhouse walls. All my boats that have wood decks are covered with scribed sheathing; I feel it makes 'em look "sexy". Believe it or not, the idea for wainscoting came from finding 3/16" at Hobby Lobby's dollhouse department. A couple of feet x 3.5" was about $16, so I found a less expensive source that also had more selections (earthandtree.com) The rail stanchions are 3/16" square dowels with 2 corners rounded over on the Dremel router table. Leaving their base square, I fit a square peg into a round hole with no glue to facilitate removal, and also for ease of replacing broken ones, which is inevitable. The rail is 1/16" brass rod that also is readily removable. The stern rail is stationary on the lower half, and the chain & wire stanchions are removable for towing ops. The deck coamings and knuckle are African mahogany strips, other mahogany accents came from leftovers of a prior build. I also try on all my boats, to incorporate vintage leftover scribed sheathing salvaged from my late Father's builds, so I know he's got a part in my builds. Note-the raised deck section between the aft ladder trunk and towing bit is actually a laminated deckhouse he made for the Frigate Essex. Unfortunately, he was unable to build that kit due to Alzheimer's disease in his latter years. (I blame that mostly on the hazardous fumes from the airplane "dope" & glue he used when building RC planes in the 60s & 70s.) I use polyurethane instead of resin due to COPD, 37 yrs of smoking, I quit 2.5 yrs ago. The driveline consists of: 775 Johnson DC main (3500 RPM@12V), Harbor Models 4mm x 14" shaft w/brass stuffing box, Raboesch 75mm 5-blade brass wheel (not OEM), 5mm U-joint couplers, Dimart 320A fan-cooled ESC. Handmade wooden teardrop rudder on a 3/8" sternpost, 1/4" tiller arm steered by a Halcion sail winch servo and cable system. Flysky 6 channel. The nav lights and other illumination are Lighthouse 9v LEDs, also a GoolRC Receiver controlled flashing blue Law Enforcement light. Obviously, I put the cart before the horse and completed the topsides and below deck before finishing the outer hull, but the Wx and season change dictated such. Can't wait for Spring!

Building base boards. by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
My benches aren't actually workmates but just as good, one has 90degree tilting surfaces. I've got some 18mm plywood that will do to make the main boards, and I've also found a box of 100--m5 anchor inserts for wood. So will have to start sorting through my stockpile for other goodies to use. You sure got my thinking processes started, will let you all know how I get on. Cheers Colin.

Sea Queen Water Line by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Andy The original model was produced in the early 1960s when IC engines were the norm and scale and RC for sailing models were in their early development stages. Supplies were limited and we made do with whatever was available. The plans were typically sheet on frame, probably plywood from an old tea chest and cascamite resin glue ( it was water proof and slow setting). The designer would suggest suitable wood to use but many chose to use what they could acquire and as a result the finished models often finished up heavy or very heavy. Coupled with the large IC engine and flywheel and large heavy RC escarpments and big drycell batteries, it is not surprising that the hulls sat well in the water. To the modellers of the period the waterline really didn't matter as we were after speed, control and endurance. This may explain why the early plans did not show a waterline, as in my experience the draught varied greatly between models. Today we have scale plans and supplies that allow us to build true replicas and all the important detail is a must for a true scale model. Personally as an ex flyer I try and build lite, bricks tend to fall or sink, and my Sea Queen rides high in the water with a slight bow up. A 42xx brushless and LiPo add little weight and I have two 8oz lumps of lead in the stern section to achieve this. If it looks right, sails well and you are happy, then enjoy your model.

Sea Queen Spray Rails by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Yes some more recent models, predominantly made for racing do have moulded rails along the bottom. Two reasons, one to add strength, especially if of thin material and secondly to provide lateral stability at the high speeds encountered. When the Aerokits were designed in around 1960s plastic was not commonly available to hobbyists and models were designed using wood/plywood and the originals did not even have spray rails fitted. The running gear was also heavy and bulky resulting in much heavier models than are possible today so the hulls did not plane so easily and the rails were not needed for most models. Technology can now turn out hulls in bulk using extruded and formed plastic and the rails add to the strength to help keep the shape. You can see this on most plastic packaging used for consumer items

100ft. to the inch Waterline Liners by billyoung Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
I am also attempting to replicate the excellent miniature Bassett Lowke waterline models to help fill in existing collections and maybe start new ones for others. I have been working so far with Honduras Mahogany and aircraft plywood supplemented with brass fitments. I am doing Olympic and Titanic so far but I am not satisfied yet.

USCGC KATMAI BAY (WTGB-101 by circle43nautical Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
[Score: 8/10] 35"/3400g USCGC KATMAI BAY (WTGB-101 Capable of 14mph and a runtime of 60mins Single Propellor (5 Blade 45mm) Direct Drive to a 775 Johnson type (5 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Dimart 320A Fan cooled (10Amps) ESC - Comments: 1:48 scale Replica of USCGC KATMAI BAY (WTGB-101), fiberglass hull & 3/4" plywood cabin/superstructure, molded by Al Mergens @ Coast Guard Models in Elk Grove Village, IL. Most likely the last Bay Class hulls that Al will produce, as he is retiring from this craft soon. I wish I could afford to relieve him of the molds; he has one for just about every USCG cutter and coastal craft that was built. As a safer alternative due to COPD, I would use polyester fabric & resin instead of fiberglass. She is a great matching scale companion to my USCGC VIGOROUS (WMEC-627) model from the same source. THANKS AL! SEMPER PARATUS! GOD BLESS AMERICA! YES, MR. ARNOLD PALMER WAS A US COAST GUARDSMAN (YM3) 1950-53

wardrobe by philpjuk Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
yes still clockwork,The best improvements have been made by lightening the motor, drilling holes in everything and replacing a side plate with one made of alloy.It is just a nut on the sponson, they are adjustable for incidence.It will now plane on the sponsons "unsticking" the hull.The original was built when I was 13/14,the motor came from the family gramophone when my dad converted it to autochanger/amplifier,the wood came from the woodshed but I was short of plywood and realised the back of my wardrobe was plywood and was hidden behind clothes so when my parents were out I cut the bits I needed from it!,my mates christened it "the wardrobe".Performance is down to propeller choice and is a compromise between speed and runtime.I took it to a boating pond in a nearby town when my wife needed to visit it and a council "jobsworth" told me I was not allowed to sail it,"only yachts and electric boats on here sir"no amount of reasoning would make him change his mind and he escorted me out of the park!.

TRIUMPH (CG-52301) by circle43nautical Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
[Score: 8/10] 52"/5700g TRIUMPH (CG-52301) Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 60mins Direct Drive to a 775 JOHNSON-TYPE FAN-COOLED 6-12V (5 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through DIMART 320A FAN-COOLED ESC - Comments: ON THE WAYS: BARRACUDA RC BOATS 1:12 USCG 52' TYPE F WOODEN MOTOR LIFEBOAT; NAMED "TRIUMPH" (CG-52301), IN HONOR OF THE RESCUE CRAFT LOST IN JAN 1961 DURING RESCUE ATTEMPT WITH LOSS OF ALL HANDS. THIS KIT IS ONE OF THREE IN EXISTENCE, THE OTHER TWO BEING BUILT BY A GENTLEMAN IN THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST (ONE FOR PERSONAL, THE OTHER FOR A MUSEUM. SHE IS MAINLY LASER CUT BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD; THE FALSE KEEL 19MM THICK, RIBS 5.5MM, DECK AND HULL & CABINS 3MM. THE HULL WILL BE COVERED AND REINFORCED WITH POLYESTER FABRIC AND MINWAX POLYURETHANE. THE DECK WILL BE COVERED BY 1/8" BASSWOOD SCRIBED SHEATHING AND THE FANTAIL SEMICIRCLE ABOVE THE STERN POST WILL BE 1/16". FINISH WITH A LIGHT MAHOGANY DECK COAMING. HANDMADE WOODEN RUDDER ON A 3/8" POST STEERED BY A SAIL WINCH SERVO & CABLE SYSTEM, RABOESCH 75MM 5-BLADE BRASS WHEEL TURNED BY A 4MM S/S SHAFT. MOST DECK FITTINGS AND HOUSINGS ARE HANDMADE WHENEVER POSSIBLE AND WOOD REMAINS NATURAL WHEN DETAIL ALLOWS IT, AS I DON'T ENJOY PAINTING OVER NATURAL GRAIN. I LOVE TO REPURPOSE THE LEFTOVER LUMBER FROM KIT TEMPLATES, LORD KNOWS I HAVE PLENTY OF IT. OH WELL, THE TEMP OUTSIDE IS GONNA DELAY ANY PAINTING, ANYWAY.THIS ONE'S TOO BIG FOR THE TUB, SO COME NEXT NAVIGATION SEASON, I'LL BE INVESTING IN A 12X4 FT. INFLATABLE POOL. LET'S GO RC BOATING! YES, MR. ARNOLD PALMER WAS A US COAST GUARDSMAN (YM3) 1950-53