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>> Home > Tags > plywood

plywood
plywood
progress by tomarack Commander   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi, first picture.. keel plywood 8 mm, this way I have done shaft for detachable keel next.. keel for Capricorn 3kg ,Keels for Gusty Cat. Kim Holland uses only 0.6kg in a gentle wind for his model with a lead bulb of only 0.6kg. I had a 1.3kg fin during one of the boat trials, but with a sudden gust of wind, the model almost lay on his side (I was not able to release the mainsail sheets quickly) - then I shed water and dried the inside of the model ... fortunately without any problems...

M.V. TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
Recently visited the U.K and collected the hull from a relative. It is now back in Canada so a detailed examination can be carried out. First impressions are: 1) The Deans Velarde hull bulwarks have fortunately not been trimmed to the final dimensions, these are marked in pencil. The excess material will really help as the Teakwood forecastle extends further sternwards and this extra material avoids having to build the forward bulwarks up. 2) The hull has many details added to facilitate positioning; portholes, rubbing strakes etc. These will all have to be sanded off as they do not fit the Teakwood. 3) The Velarde has a pronounced “dodger” on top of the bulwarks around the bow. This will also have to be removed. 4) The bow leading edge is quite bluff, possibly to suite the GF manufacturing process. This will probably work in my favour as it can be extended forward and slimmed into the Teakwood style entry, which is sharper and more vertical. 5) The hull is slightly oversize (about .300”) , not enough to be concerned about, but it does make the revised LBP correct! 6) The hull is nicely made and a credit to Deans Marine. The initial plan was to modify the hull shape first to adapt it into the Teakwood. Decided, as it is quite flexible, it would be better to add a keel strip, bulkheads and deck supports first. It would then become rigid enough to work. This revision to my original thoughts proved the best approach. The hull needs several modifications, but until it is rigid it is premature to implement them. The modifications will only prove more difficult and then inaccurate. Made up a number of plywood bulkheads, based upon the MM Velarde plan, but reduced in height to suite the Teakwood. As these are trial fitted into place in the GF hull further adjustments can be made. Once satisfied with the bulkhead fit, they and the keel were epoxied into place. Horizontal stringers were also added to ensure the bulkheads were accurately positioned, vertical and not twisted until the epoxy set. Can probably remove them once the hull structure is compete, although they could also be left in place to support the deck. Will probably largely leave in place. Deck support stringers were also epoxied into place and the hull sides glued to them. The hull is now good and stiff and can be worked safely. As the stern portion will require further adjustment, the sides were left free from the stern bulkhead rearwards. This will allow the rework without cutting through recently fitted items.

FELIX by Inkoust Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Model German docks from Krick, ABS hull, superstructure plywood, model is illuminated with reflector, position lights and mast, drive DC motor MIG 500 Boat 12V, controller 45A Turnigy bidirectional, LiPol battery 7.4 V 4000mA. The model has good stability and driving characteristics. I recommend this kit to all mildly advanced modellers. Good and accurate version of the model kit.😉

FELIX by Inkoust Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
[Score: 9/10] 25"/1500g FELIX Capable of 5mph and a runtime of 60mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 35mm) Direct Drive to a MIG 600 Boat (3 Blade) Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 4Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Turnigy (45Amps) ESC - Comments: Model German docks from Krick, ABS hull, superstructure plywood, model is illuminated with reflector, position lights and mast, drive DC motor MIG 500 Boat 12V, controller 45A Turnigy bidirectional, LiPol battery 7.4 V 4000mA. The model has good stability and driving characteristics. I recommend this kit to all mildly advanced modellers. Good and accurate version of the model kit.

RAF rescue launch shape by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
Hi All, surprisingly (to me anyway) there is a cross-link here to the Elco PT boats! Apparently Scott-Paine took his 70ft PT9 HSL/PTB design to America looking for cooperation with Packard for engines and extra production facilities. This was the birth of the Elco PT Boat series! We all think of them as American, but the design was British 👍😉 From Scott-Paine's biography- "PT boats (First Pic shows Elco 70-foot (21 m) PT boat PT-10 in 1941) In 1939 agreement was reached with the American Electric Launch Company (Elco) to purchase a British Power Boat 70-footer (later named PT9), as a template for American production under licence. PT9 (second pic 1940) was taken by the US President Roosevelt to Elco’s works at New London, Connecticut. On 3 October Scott-Paine met President Roosevelt and senior Elco representatives at the White House to authorize the creation of a new naval arm, the PT Boat Squadrons. (PT boat was short for Patrol Torpedo boat). Production started at a new Elco factory at Bayonne, New Jersey in January 1940. The Canadian Power Boat Company was set up by Scott-Paine in 1940. This produced 39 boats, mainly MTBs. After the passing of Lend-Lease in 1941 comparative trials, nicknamed the Plywood Derbys, were held between rival American boatbuilders, Elco winning both. Elco went on to produce 754 70-, 77-, and 80-foot (24 m) PT boats, including Jack Kennedy’s PT109 as well as the boat that rescued General Douglas MacArthur from Corregidor. Later years In December 1944, Scott-Paine received a cheque for $200,000 with an accompanying letter of appreciation for his contributions made to the development of the PT boat from Secretary of the Navy James Forrestal. The money was from Elco and was brokered by legal teams, releasing Elco from any and all further liabilities concerning the license rights." Well! Did you ever !!😉 Cheers Doug 😎

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by neilmc Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
Dave I won't take any photos yet as it's literally just the hull. You may remeber last year you provide loads of help on my plywood delamination issue and the build blog is still there which shows me reducing her to nothing and making new superstructure side from scratch. The rest of her is in boxes 😂😂😂😂

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by neilmc Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
Thanks for everything tonight learning more each time I'm on here and at the moment its keeping me out of trouble😁😁😁 Paul - I was looking through my bits of paperwork today and found a letter from Peter when I joined this site 6 years ago - yes that's how I've been going on this project. The letter was to do with the actual fireboat and what colour grey was used so at one point I was quite far on. Then it all went wrong with delamination of the plywood and major misalignment issues. Peter was a great a guy and really helpful

Sea Queen by Rex3644 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
[Score: 8/10] 46" Sea Queen Single Propellor (2 Blade S Type 55mm) Geared to a Marx Decaperm (2 Blade S Type) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 7Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Chinese 40amp ESC - Comments: Having completed the Sea Ranger I felt it time for more of a challenge. Not wanting to buy a kit of this craft I set about my journey to create the Sea Queen for as little money as possible. Plans were sourced from eBay for £15 a 17" propshaft from model boat bits lead acid battery from Howes models and speed controller off eBay. Total spend so far about £60 and it's ready to run when the blue green algae clears from the lake. All other bits were sourced from my spares / bits box. Apart from 1 x 48 x12" sheet of 4mm plywood all the 6mm & 1.5mm was supplied courtesy of my nephew at Swallow Boats in Cardigan, he builds the real thing, and I in effect produced my own kit over 3 days whilst on. Family visit.

eezebuild RAF tender by Gravedigger47 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi! Marky, I have just recovering from a stroke Andi have a gaff rigged cutter half done but as it was my first time building a sail boat I was stuck when it came to the sail set up then the stroke I can't get back to it so I would wonder if you could possibly negotiate another set for the eezebilt RAF tender cut in plywood. I would be most willingly pay for it no problem, Please don't fret if its not possible I will understand Laters then Mick

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Neil, yes, very similar. Could be regarded to as a first step before applying Eze-Kote to give it a harder, knock and almost everything else resistant surface. Hammerite then sticks to it like the proverbial to the blanket and you have a super clean 'engine compartment' dead easy to keep clean. 😊 80 quid for a brushless !!! Do you want it gold plated or what? My Propdrive 2830 cost less than 20 knicker from Hobbyking and was delivered almost before I ordered it! Just make sure it comes from the UK or EU (still!?🤔) warehouse and not USA or Global. otherwise you might get stuck for import tax 😡 For the motor mount / shaft alignment: no one said it was easy, but Nothing's Impossible', maybe that's why I drive Toyota!!😁 back end is determined by the diameter of the prop you want to fit, which in the case of brushless motor should be roughly the same diameter as the brushless (outrunner). In my case 28mm motor and 30mm prop. This defines how far you can lift the aft end of the shaft, leave at least 1cm between the prop tip and the hull! This reduces unwanted interaction between the vortex from the prop and the lamina flow along the hull, result; more forward thrust and better rudder effect. (Didn't spend 30 odd years talking to shipyards for nowt😉) If you have plan (or at least a sketch - take some measurements if you don't have one of these and make a sketch) of the keel and existing motor mount; project back from the newly determined exit point of the shaft. Check how far forward you need to go to be able to comfortably fit the motor mount with good alignment and purchase a shaft of appropriate length. Cut a wood block to fit around the keel as the basic mount and 'fiddle' with it until your motor and mounting (e.g. the Robbe / Romarin 400 mount) aligns with the shaft line. Alignment is checked by running the motor at a fixed low speed with an ammeter showing the current it draws. Shim the motor mount up / down, and shift slowly from side to side until the current reading is a minimum. Then glue and screw everything in place quick before anything moves! Takes almost longer to describe than to do😉 The coupling type shown in my photo is called a 'Steg' coupling here in Germany (don't know the English🤔) and available from Krick Modellbau, for various motor shaft / prop shaft diameters, here the link to their English page- http://www.krickshop.de/?shop=krick_e Part number for the 3.17mm (1/8") to 4.0mm version I used is 63902. part number for the motor mount I used for my 28mm brushless is 42117. Advantages (to me at least!) they are not as long as the traditional UJ and Cardan types, they are resilient but don't flop about like the UJ types so are much easier to fit and align. Cos they are shorter you can use 'em for mountings in confined spaces. And they don't make no noise!! 😉 One final tip (may not be so useful on hard plywood built boats!). When I had this problem with my destroyer I sharpened the end of an 8mm alu tube (same as the shaft tube dia) and used it to bore back from the hull exit to the last bulkhead before the motor mounts. the bulkheads though were 1/4" balsa! Nice and soft man 😉 Hope this helps more than confuses, but it all worked for me! Cheers and happy fiddling, Doug 😎

Riva by Alan999 Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Scratch built from odd plywood

Riva boat by Alan999 Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Taking time building this Chris Craft Riva boat from scrap plywood but fun and a lot cheaper than buying a complete kit. Have just finished the hull and giving so far four coats of varnish. It's about 31inches long so thats some boat. Howes have supplied all the fittings and I am pleased they post here to me in Spain. Next step is to find some small dials to put on the dashboard to add some Glitz!!.

Cabin Repair by canabus Captain   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi All Started on fixing the bits I broke in removing the old paint. The forward window had a gap in the middle to the deck, so I added timber behind the bottom of the window and filled in the gap. Masking tape to the deck and combing, a lump of filler, sit the cabin down and wait for the filler to dry. Remove cabin, masking tape, trim and sand down. As the aft of the cabin sits over the deck a fair bit, I added a plywood piece back to the combing so to strengthen the aft cabin area and replaced the bottom section under one of the windows. Remodelling this boat and building the SG&K 1920 Gentleman's Runabout is keeping me busy!!! This retirement is great, but, I still liked my old job. Canabus

44 life boat by GARTH Commander   Posted: 3 months ago
[Score: 5/10] 34"/900g 44 life boat Capable of 3mph and a runtime of 60mins Twin Propellors (3 Blade 30mm) Geared Powered by NiMH (7.2v) 4Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through pro boat (5Amps) ESC - Comments: I built the 44 several years ago & wasn't happy with her as it listed to much on port & starboard turns because the cabin was to heavy so I rebuilt the cabin with lighter plywood started running her at the pond & seems a lot better now.Still needs a little more work with fittings

Sophia by Alan999 Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
The Sophia is a Chris Craft Riva that I am building from scratch using scrap plywood.