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>> Home > Tags > power unit

power unit
jet unit
smoke unit
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coningsby tower
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portland model power boat association
power block
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power unit
de Mist Naval Tug by Glyn Seaman   Posted: 24 days ago
Hi Joburg-sailor! De Mist was built by Dorbyl, Durban, in 1978. Powered by two 8-cylinder Mirrlees Blackstone diesel engines with twin Voith-Schneider propulsion units. No idea if plans are available of this specific tug, but I do have some of similar vessels that were built by the same company for SAR&H in 1980 that are still in service (but probably nearing their service lives by now). Regards, Glyn

RNZAF W1 by jbkiwi Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
[Score: 5/10] 36"/2900g RNZAF W1 Capable of 10mph and a runtime of 40mins Twin Propellors (3 Blade 25mm) Direct Drive to a TGY 28/45 2000KV INRUNNER (3 Blade) Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 2Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through CHINA (5Amps) ESC - Comments: 36" Scratch built model of RNZAF W1, a British Power Boat 64ft HSL. Has twin brushless motors, twin ESCs, twin sound units, water cooling pump, full lighting and r/c switches for lights and pump. Took approx 5 yrs to buid on and off. hull is strip planked and f/glassed, deck is ply, wheel house is balsa.

BRAVE BORDERER by jbkiwi Commander   Posted: 4 months ago
Just put up another vid showing the speed at around 2/3 throttle which looks reasonably scale for 38 knots (bit hard to scale water movement as we all know!) and it doesn't squeal too much at this speed. Just been back through my old info on the ESCs and found I may be able to change a few things (forgot due to approaching dotage and so many projects on electric (18 planes as well converted from ic to electric) I was thinking with your high kv motors that if you can get away with smaller props or some the scale diam bit finer pitch props, that would allow the motors to rev how they should, but give you finer control. As I mentioned before, on 8v per motor they will spin at around 16-18000 rpm and won't like a big load (you've no doubt heard those delta wings scream) . My props are 28mm x 3 blade on a 2000kv motor and are spinning at around 12000 rpm (probably around 8000 rpm in the vid at 2/3 throttle) The general rule with brushless is the higher the kv the smaller the prop/pitch and vice versa planes or boats (would also apply to brushed) If you have an in line amp meter/batt checker you can check the amps drawn in the water at full power (have someone hold the boat) and see if you are under max A for the motor. You can then prop to suit if necessary. This is the only way to check for correct load and is an absolute must for aeroplanes. After a run, motors should be around cool to almost too hot to touch (60-70deg C) There are backplate water cooling units available for using out-runners in boats if necessary eg pic.

Hobby Engine Factory Tug Motors by Pete Lieutenant   Posted: 4 months ago
Hello: I have a Hobby Engine “premium” 2.4GHz “Richardson” tug. This boat is identical mechanically to the “Southampton” tug. I’ve read many posts on the forum having to do with replacing the factory-installed motor/gearbox unit with two separate motors mounted side by side. Personally I’m happy with the factory drive setup; it’s quite powerful & it runs smoothly. The reduction gearing is a bit noisy, but my boat is new & will likely quiet down with use. I have two requests for those who have removed the factory drive unit & replaced it with separate motors: 1. If you’ve still got your factory drive unit & have taken it apart out of curiosity, if possible will you please post photos of the internal parts? I’m interested in seeing what’s inside the housing & how the gearing is set up. 2. Along the same vein, I’d like to acquire a spare factory drive to have on hand, just in case. If you have a complete, working drive unit that you’d consider offering for sale, please send a PM to me & let me know what you would want for a price. Thanks very much. Pete

ASR 64ft R/C VID 2 by jbkiwi Commander   Posted: 4 months ago
Boat is Scratch built 36" British Power Boat 64ft High Speed ASR Launch which belonged to the RNZAF. The launch was one of the 22 built and was shipped to NZ in 1940. It was the only one of its type in the Southern Hemisphere. Model has twin motors, ESCs, sound units etc. Has remotely switched water pump for water cooled brushless 2000kv in runner motors and remotely switched lighting. Uses 2x 2200mah 2s LiPos for drive and 1 1800mah LiPo for the pump (also a separate battery for the LED lights. Boat is built with strip planked balsa on ply frame and fiber glassed. Deck is ply, wheelhouse is varnished balsa. The colour is as it was for most of its time in the RNZAF . Took about 5 years on and off to build and finished it last year. (please ignore the time date - can't get rid of it .

Taycol Supemarine Resurrection by boaty Admiral   Posted: 4 months ago
Interesting restoration project . Great fan of Taycols myself though its some 24 years since I had one. The motors themselves are bristling with character as you can see the armature rotating and you do get the smell of something electrical along with it. Taycols go further than being just power units as they are good ballast due to their weight. Unfortunately through progress they have been replaced by little tin cans and brushless devices. Hopefully someday a person or a company will put them back in production due to the number of retro boat kits now being sold. Boaty

Launch ELAINE, by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Thought U were goin' to hit the hay a while ago John!? 😉 Greetings from one model fan and insomniac to another👍 BTW agree with your comments about the water jacket. Sweat the screws out and the rest should be relatively easy. "In this the most perfect of all possible worlds"! Cheers All, Doug 😎 BTW: TELL me about those relays! For a year or so back in the early 70s I used to service and calibrate the radiation monitors at various nuclear research / power generation sites around England. The detectors tripped a relay via appropriate drivers, which then triggered the unit Nixie tube, etc, etc. My job was mainly cleaning and setting the relays and doing a calibration against 'normal' background count, cosmic radiation etc. To reassure folks; during the whole year - year and a half I never ever saw a count above background! But then - that was 46 years ago 😲

tugboat keel by CB90 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
DIESEL TUG TIRRICK Plans by Sarik Hobbies, Schneider powered tug1:50th scale. Model is 740mm loa & 230mm beam and intended for power by model VS units. Unusual hull form but no model construction data. Featured in: MM NOVEMBER 1994 https://www.sarikhobbies.com/product/diesel-tug-tirrick/

PT 109 upgrade? by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
No, no, you misunderstand, Doug. Not doubting the engines in an Elco, but doubting the likelihood of finding a youtube of one with it's original power of 3 V-12s to record for a sound unit! Martin

Sterling American Scout by Mikep Commander   Posted: 6 months ago
American Scout C2 cargo ship power MACK 3-1 drive 12 volt 2 x 6 volt 3000 mah batteries. Harbor smoke unit model weighs 15 lbs.

BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
Whilst waiting for the new motors and ESCs, reviewed videos of the vessel under power and noted that as the speed increases, the bow lifts towards a plane. However, as she gathers speed the transom flaps become effective, forcing the bow down in a cloud of spray. At this point the plane has been lost and the model becomes almost uncontrollable. Decided to temporarily ballast the hull to simulate the new motors and ESCs, then try to establish the optimum flap angle using just the centre propeller and shaft. This is the original 2838 brushless motor installation with a 30 mm propeller. With this simulated drivetrain it would also be an opportunity to determine the best battery locations for both 2 and 3S Li-Po batteries. Made up an angle template with a spirit level to get the correct deck inclination with the vessel floating at rest. From this located each type of battery statically - somewhere close to the mid-point of the hull. Which also seemed as good a place to start as any! Somewhere in the research for this model found a reference to the transom flap angle. This was at a 2 degree -ve (pointing downwards) angle. Installed the 2S battery and tried the model. The bow dug in at speed. Adjusted the flap to a straight and level position and tried again. The bow still wanted to dig in, but to a reduced extent. Readjusted the angle to 2 + ve and repeated. The bow now lifted so the forefoot just cleared the water and then remained in that position. Replaced the 2S battery with the 3S. The extra power obviously increased speed and the bow lifted slightly further. The spray was deflected by the chine rails and a level plane established. The conclusion is that the transom flap angle is critical to the correct planing of this model and that it should not be negative. Until the new motors and ESCs are fitted will leave the transom flap and battery locations as is. Once these components are installed, intend to repeat the test. Am confident that with some fine tuning the model can be now made to plane properly at a scale speed. Interesting to note that the model will just about plane with only one propeller operating – wonder what it will be like with all three?

AL Khubar 2 by dragon Admiral   Posted: 10 months ago
Hi As seen in my build blog list of items fitted. 2 MFA Geared 6-1 Motors. 2 Aqua power 128 FNR Speed controllers. Brass props. Bow thruster. Brass Korts. Sound unit. Horn. Lights. all in working order. Sailed very well yesterday at Owls pond. In good working order sold as seen with no returns too detailed to pack collection only please. £300 ovno. Any Question please ask. Plans and instructions also.

Flyer 15, racing hydroplane by boaty Admiral   Posted: 11 months ago
Really lovely model. What power unit are you considering ? I can picture this boat with small brushless performing at scale speed and attracting a lot of attention.😁 BOATY

12v esc for trolling motor build by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 year ago
Interesting project. Difficult to give advice on the info available. Looks like a steerable powered nozzle at the rear but what motor is it and what are the specs? An Esc does all the hard work and converts the rx pulses into usable power. I have arduinos and they can be programmed to control the power and rotation of a motor but would need additional high power Mosfets as well as other circuitry to buffer the unit from the output. If you are really into arduinos then a walk in the park but I believe an ESC would possibly be more robust and waterproof. It would be good if you were to post a build blog of your progress as the subject is certainly different to any models we have seen to-date. Good luck with the build

Voltage step down by Novagsi0 Admiral   Posted: 1 year ago
Just a thought- The component shop does do a voltage reducer rated at 6 Amps power draw, and will drop from DC (10.5-40v to 1-9v) I thought about using one of these to run a 6v volt Marx Hectoperm motor from a 12v source, to save buying a new battery. As long as your motor speed controller setup doesn't draw more than say 4~4.5 Amps. I'm my case the tug had 4 x 6Ahr 6v batteries wired in parallel giving 16Ahr and 2-1/2 hours running time @full speed. These batteries have since all died due to age. I wanted to use just 1 x 20Ahr 12v battery instead and keep the added ballast I need anyway. This 6 amp unit is on the limit in my application. P.S i'm tight with money and I acquired the battery free from an alarm battery swap.