Thanks hammer have used the heat shrink like that on a previous boat and i tend to use the grimb tubes for the nylon line. i did think of making the pulleys but just couldn't get my self motivated to do it. i have my next project ready for starting and thinking will have to make everything for this one.
I think you're right Ron 🤔 only just barely visible - a good argument for NOT painting it black! 😉 Fully understand with the pulleys - there are so many of them, would have done the same 👍 Keep up the good work, cheers Doug 😎
Way to go man!!! At the risk of becoming monotonous 🤓 Brilliant woodwork and fittings 👍 Did you make the pulleys yourself? Looks like stainless, if so Hat Off Sir 👍👍 PLEASE DON'T PAINT THAT LOVELY CLINKER BOAT!!😲 It would look Soooo good varnished to your usual standard, and I'm pretty sure from the photos of the original that only the canvas cover was blue. Surely the boat itself was varnished. More power to your rigging, Cheers Doug 😎
Even tastier with the Frankfurters, and Colemans Mustard I trust😜😋 Steve: I found a cheap way to mechanise the two aft turrets of my H class destroyer Hotspur, using one servo with a pulley, a couple of smaller pulleys on the turrets, about 2:1 ratio to give at least 180° rotation at the turrets, and a spring loaded nylon cord around the pulleys. I'll see if I can dismantle her over the weekend to make some pics. I plan to try something similar with my 1:350 Hood, also Trumpeter and also excellent detailing. Another way is to use one micro servo per turret, connected with Y cables if you want a synchronised Broadside; A+B and X+Y turret. Then use the servo travel adjustment at the TX to maximise the rotation. You can then move all four on one channel or two channels for 'Independent Firing" fore and aft. I will use the two pots at the top of the Turnigy i6 TX for this. On Hotspur I used the left stick left/right. I plan to do this in my Graf Spee, Belfast, Hood and Bismarck. Maybe also the ack ack turrets on Ark Royal!? Will knock up some test jigs sometime 🤓 Cheers Doug 😎
[Score: 10/10] 16"/600g Sidewinder Capable of 10mph and a runtime of 40mins Single Propellor (2 Blade S Type 35mm) Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries - Comments: Another of my Foam hulled, own designs using an own design Azipod thruster with B/L motor submerged and running in water. Steering by sail winch servo via geared pulleys, can rotate unit 360 degrees. Hope to put build write up in MB mag. Wierd model that turns in its own length and is powerful enough to clear the weeds on the pond (and break ice!)
Hi Seafarer, a few basic questions! Mast for what boat/ship? Dimensions / pic or sketch of the mast? Space for drive motors/gears/pulleys etc? Hint: for the radar on my 1:72 destroyer I used an old servo; disconnected the feedback, and removed the mechanical end stops so it rotated continuously and drove it with a single 1.5V dry cell (alkaline), lasts for years😉 But in my case the scanner aerial sat on the director tower on the bridge, not on a mast, so simple direct drive coupled to the servo (hidden in the ridge) output shaft with shrink sleeve. Does a sweep in a little under one second. What type of radar are you trying to simulate? Cheers Doug 😎
The only remaining area requiring significant rework was the bow. Decided now to concentrate on getting the shape and dimensions correct. Made a template from a steel wire coat hangar, shaped to follow the Teakwood bow profile. Cut a mating recess in the upper bow and bulwark, fitted the template into it using CA glue. Once fitted and relatively rigid, cut a piece of styrene to fit into the space between the hull and the template. Epoxied the styrene into place at both the template and to original Velarde hull bow profile. This gave a nice looking bow from the side elevation, one that is also strong. Unfortunately, when viewed from the underside, the usual nice smooth water entry is not apparent. Had two ideas to attempt to blend the bow into the hull sides properly. The first was to cover this transition area with thin styrene and then feather it into the bow and the hull. The second was to use the modelers secret weapon, wood filler and do the same. After either approach planned to cover the whole area in thin glass-fibre cloth and sand down until smooth. Mocked up the styrene installation and decided to abandon the idea. The styrene makes the bow transition bulky, it also became quite clumsy around the upper area. Thought would try the wood filler approach instead. Shaped the rough filler with sand paper, it worked out relatively easily as it required little rubbing down. The modification worked out well and the bow looks satisfactory from both the side and underside. Decided also to replace the pulley drive arrangement with a toothed belt system. Have never tried this before and, as a friend of mine had a selection of belts and pulleys, thought would be useful experience to try it. One question perhaps somebody can help me with – what colour was the deck on this vessel? All my pictures showing the deck are in black and white!
Hi Julian, I think that's the easiest in the long run given the space available.👍 Also simplest (and quietest) way to get the drive round 90° corners 😉 If you don't have / can't find a suitable size rubber band get a length of round silicon rubber gasket material ca 1 to 2mm diameter. This you can cut to length (allowing for some tension) and join the ends with cyano adhesive. I used this method for the sealing gasket on my Type IIA sub. No leaks 😊 Have fun,😎 Doug BTW: old stripped out video recorders / players are a good source of cogs, pulleys and drive belts 😉
Hi Julian, don't know exactly how much room you have under the radar mount but I still think you will need a couple of pulleys! Motor mounted out of sight underneath the mast - shaft running up the mast to pulley #1 - pulley #2 mounted at end of the boom underneath the the radar mount. Choose ratio of diameter pulley 1 to 2 according to the space available and final rotation rate (RPM) you want. Strong rubber band to connect the two pulleys. Didn't need this method for my destroyer radar cos it sat right on top of the Director Tower, but used the pulley principle for gun turret rotation to connect two turrets together! 👍 One servo with extended rotation arc and two pulleys. Cheers Doug 😎
Dennis: Thank you for your feedback about the radars. I believe you have your pulleys hidden under the pilots cabin. I have very little room for that type of set up, so I think the best way is to purchase the small motor that Doug recommended without any mayor wiggling. Show me some pictures, or I believe I have seen your set up in this forum. Thank you Julian😎
Hi chugalone100 It would appear you have already worked out that some sort of pulley may be an option. Angled small gears may also work but there may not be the space available and you would probably need to make your own. I did buy from http://www.gizmoszone.com/ some very small (6mm) planetary geared motors that run on 3volts and are certainly suitable for your purpose via a pulley system. Using 1.5 volts gave a very realistic speed. Using one of these motors should allow you to use two small pulleys on the mast, where I suspect space will be limited. I would make sure you will always have access to the pulleys and belts as they will almost certainly need servicing over time. Hope this helps and please post details of the setup. Dave
Hey guys!!! I'm looking on the web to find a way to build a working radar for my 1/32 Statia Relaint tug. I don't like the idea of feeding the radar movement from the bottom with a rod but rather with pulleys or a micro motor with low rpm that would fit under the radar base. (Third photo to the right). By the way, the radar base will be aproximatly 3/4"-12/16" I know you guys have,the answer to any of our rookie questions. Thank you for your anticipated cooperation.
I appreciate all the good ideas and suggestions. I'm going to work through the list in an order which I think will be easiest and/or most effective. Starting off with increasing the rudder size by mechanically attaching something grossly oversize. If that works, I'll reduce the size step by step to find out what's the minimum size that makes sense. The rudders at present are oversize compared to the plan of the original. One of my early fixes attempted was to attach a 1" deep brass plate about 20" long under the bottom centreline of the hull as an external keel. I considered that would make a big improvement, but it made no difference. Steering control has a servo rotating a toothed pulley. The toothed drive belt goes around it and the two rudder pulleys. The toothed belt ensures the rudders move and stay synchronized. Roy