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Model Boats Website Team
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[Score: 10/10] 16"/600g Sidewinder Capable of 10mph and a runtime of 40mins Single Propellor (2 Blade S Type 35mm) Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries - Comments: Another of my Foam hulled, own designs using an own design Azipod thruster with B/L motor submerged and running in water. Steering by sail winch servo via geared pulleys, can rotate unit 360 degrees. Hope to put build write up in MB mag. Wierd model that turns in its own length and is powerful enough to clear the weeds on the pond (and break ice!)
Hi Seafarer, a few basic questions! Mast for what boat/ship? Dimensions / pic or sketch of the mast? Space for drive motors/gears/pulleys etc? Hint: for the radar on my 1:72 destroyer I used an old servo; disconnected the feedback, and removed the mechanical end stops so it rotated continuously and drove it with a single 1.5V dry cell (alkaline), lasts for years😉 But in my case the scanner aerial sat on the director tower on the bridge, not on a mast, so simple direct drive coupled to the servo (hidden in the ridge) output shaft with shrink sleeve. Does a sweep in a little under one second. What type of radar are you trying to simulate? Cheers Doug 😎
The only remaining area requiring significant rework was the bow. Decided now to concentrate on getting the shape and dimensions correct. Made a template from a steel wire coat hangar, shaped to follow the Teakwood bow profile. Cut a mating recess in the upper bow and bulwark, fitted the template into it using CA glue. Once fitted and relatively rigid, cut a piece of styrene to fit into the space between the hull and the template. Epoxied the styrene into place at both the template and to original Velarde hull bow profile. This gave a nice looking bow from the side elevation, one that is also strong. Unfortunately, when viewed from the underside, the usual nice smooth water entry is not apparent. Had two ideas to attempt to blend the bow into the hull sides properly. The first was to cover this transition area with thin styrene and then feather it into the bow and the hull. The second was to use the modelers secret weapon, wood filler and do the same. After either approach planned to cover the whole area in thin glass-fibre cloth and sand down until smooth. Mocked up the styrene installation and decided to abandon the idea. The styrene makes the bow transition bulky, it also became quite clumsy around the upper area. Thought would try the wood filler approach instead. Shaped the rough filler with sand paper, it worked out relatively easily as it required little rubbing down. The modification worked out well and the bow looks satisfactory from both the side and underside. Decided also to replace the pulley drive arrangement with a toothed belt system. Have never tried this before and, as a friend of mine had a selection of belts and pulleys, thought would be useful experience to try it. One question perhaps somebody can help me with – what colour was the deck on this vessel? All my pictures showing the deck are in black and white!
Hi Julian, I think that's the easiest in the long run given the space available.👍 Also simplest (and quietest) way to get the drive round 90° corners 😉 If you don't have / can't find a suitable size rubber band get a length of round silicon rubber gasket material ca 1 to 2mm diameter. This you can cut to length (allowing for some tension) and join the ends with cyano adhesive. I used this method for the sealing gasket on my Type IIA sub. No leaks 😊 Have fun,😎 Doug BTW: old stripped out video recorders / players are a good source of cogs, pulleys and drive belts 😉
Hi Julian, don't know exactly how much room you have under the radar mount but I still think you will need a couple of pulleys! Motor mounted out of sight underneath the mast - shaft running up the mast to pulley #1 - pulley #2 mounted at end of the boom underneath the the radar mount. Choose ratio of diameter pulley 1 to 2 according to the space available and final rotation rate (RPM) you want. Strong rubber band to connect the two pulleys. Didn't need this method for my destroyer radar cos it sat right on top of the Director Tower, but used the pulley principle for gun turret rotation to connect two turrets together! 👍 One servo with extended rotation arc and two pulleys. Cheers Doug 😎
Dennis: Thank you for your feedback about the radars. I believe you have your pulleys hidden under the pilots cabin. I have very little room for that type of set up, so I think the best way is to purchase the small motor that Doug recommended without any mayor wiggling. Show me some pictures, or I believe I have seen your set up in this forum. Thank you Julian😎
Hi chugalone100 It would appear you have already worked out that some sort of pulley may be an option. Angled small gears may also work but there may not be the space available and you would probably need to make your own. I did buy from http://www.gizmoszone.com/ some very small (6mm) planetary geared motors that run on 3volts and are certainly suitable for your purpose via a pulley system. Using 1.5 volts gave a very realistic speed. Using one of these motors should allow you to use two small pulleys on the mast, where I suspect space will be limited. I would make sure you will always have access to the pulleys and belts as they will almost certainly need servicing over time. Hope this helps and please post details of the setup. Dave
Hey guys!!! I'm looking on the web to find a way to build a working radar for my 1/32 Statia Relaint tug. I don't like the idea of feeding the radar movement from the bottom with a rod but rather with pulleys or a micro motor with low rpm that would fit under the radar base. (Third photo to the right). By the way, the radar base will be aproximatly 3/4"-12/16" I know you guys have,the answer to any of our rookie questions. Thank you for your anticipated cooperation.
I appreciate all the good ideas and suggestions. I'm going to work through the list in an order which I think will be easiest and/or most effective. Starting off with increasing the rudder size by mechanically attaching something grossly oversize. If that works, I'll reduce the size step by step to find out what's the minimum size that makes sense. The rudders at present are oversize compared to the plan of the original. One of my early fixes attempted was to attach a 1" deep brass plate about 20" long under the bottom centreline of the hull as an external keel. I considered that would make a big improvement, but it made no difference. Steering control has a servo rotating a toothed pulley. The toothed drive belt goes around it and the two rudder pulleys. The toothed belt ensures the rudders move and stay synchronized. Roy
It's certainly not a silly thought, but it would be major rework. So if that were to be the only cure, I'd have to live with the present behaviour. The screws and the rudders have been moved forward of their correct scale position to place the rudder posts inside the walls of the passenger compartment. I considered it the least offensive compromise to give access to the rudder posts. Moving the rudder posts outboard to the screw centrelines would mean major rework to the walls and deck of the superstructure, as well as the hull. Even with the rudder posts in their adjusted position, they are close to the walls and there was not enough room to swing a rudder arm. Rudder control is arranged using toothed belts and pulleys on the rudder posts.
[Score: 7/10] 36"/6800g Veleta Capable of 4mph and a runtime of 120mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 40mm) Belt to a 700 (3 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 5Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Electronize (15Amps) ESC - Comments: This is Vic Smeed's Veleta published some time in the early sixties and enlarged about 1.5 times. I'm not sure the enlargement was a good idea but she's still a pretty boat. Construction was balsa sheet and Lite Ply covered with nylon and Poly C water based resin. I would always use epoxy again in the future-as this material is not very tough. The drive is via turned brass pulleys and O ring giving a very quiet and positive drive.
Thanks pmdevlin,nice bit of engineering especially the motor cooler the belt drive would take a fair bit of power from the motor but you wouldn't have to disturb the propshaft alignment when changing motors or pulleys, good photos thanks again. Steve.
Thanks Gents, I will put this project on hold for a while and think about the system whilst doing catchup on my other boats , when I think about it a V drive is not required with an electric motor ,but a parallel drive is a good idea as it puts the motor lower down and reduces the length of the drive and also gear ratios can be varied provided the pulleys can be readily changed Have a good new year. Steve.