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Hi Toby. Further your PM, thought I would try to demonstrate the PVA hyperdermic method as it has been about 5 years since I used it on the Flower Class Corvette. Unfortunately I only had a 18g needle to hand so "overdelivery" was a problem together with the ambient temp today that is pushing 32 degrees outside! I remembered by doing this exercise that when putting some pressure (very little) on the plunger that the PVA tends to want to drip, so the main thing is to support the needle at a constant height above the work (I used my other hand) and to move on quite rapidly as the pressure inside the syringe keeps reloading the tip of the needle. Lift the needle vertically as you move along, this keeps the rivet round. As always "practice makes perfect" so don't commit to the model without being happy with the result being achieved. Good luck!
Re syringe method. I just tried several sizes of hyperdermic needle to get the rivet size more or less right. Then ground off the sharp point on the needle and used the PVA undiluted with the needle positioned vertically above where I wanted the rivet to be. This prevented any elongation of the rivet and I only had to worry about the size being extruded. Good point about the temp...that could definitely have been a factor here!
My method of pva rivets was to dip a nail tip into the pva and dab that on to the hull plates. It was fairly cool in the house. Not sure whether warmer or cooler temperature would control the spread of the pva better. I am yet wondering whether or not to flatten the rivets I have just put on as they may be too domed. I am looking at photos online of hull/ rudder detail and may follow a similar appearance to that photo attached in leiu of there being no detail photo of the ship I am building. Photo attached. Wow factor especially when one finally notices the worker in the photo. How did use get the syringe method to work for you. Did you thin the pva or.....
Hi Toby I too went the route of riveting by PVA. The first problem was to thin all the hull plates on the Revell kit (my first boat) before attempting the rivets using a hyperdermic syringe and needle. Problem was "how many" and "what size"...I just forged ahead with what "looked right" at the time and probably would pay more attention should I do it today. Agree that "spreading" was a problem too. Cheers
Thanks R in Munich! The shapes of brackets under the rivets are cut out from a sheet of fibre glass. Depending on contour held in place with a dab of CA or the finishing resin, then topped with finishing resin. I have now to decide if I use the rivet method for the reset of the ship. The hull effect was via dabbing pva glue but some spread slightly and thus look over scale on some. 1mm ~50mm so a rivet head spreading to 2-3mm ~ 100-150 and I think a 6" rivet head might be unrealistic? What was ther likely rivet head size on such ships. Toby
I tried using a protector piece, but it helped it slide all over the place. Ihave the first of those items. Old mould. Can't whack it. Better than mature Cheddar Micro Klear is that stuff that looks exactly like PVA glue (and probably IS) that model airyplane kitbashers use to glaze tiny airliner windows and such. It goes allegedly clear when dry, but is so bumpy a blind man can see it. Martin
Yep, built mine with my Dad, a 34" Crash Tender. We used the then new PVA glue and to be honest, 54 years later it still holds well and is waterproof. I really must finish it some day! I confess I never had an IC engine in a boat, but I've always had an ED Racer with water jacket and big brass flywheel. Still have it on my shelf with others, but I could never get the buggers to start! So Dad made sure the Crash Tender had a good electric motor when he spoiled me with it all for my 11th Christmas. I had REP single channel R/C and a Taycol Supermarine motor and Taycol coupling. That's what's in it and will stay in it. Alas the R/C gear was stolen. I could replicate the case, but there just ain't the time for all these things, so an old Mini Hex 1970s Propo set will go in it as a classic curio. I used it for years with the REP on the oyster ponds at Paglesham. Left, centre, right, centre, wiggle right, wiggle right and so on. The Taycol ate batteries! Martin
The Mossie I understand but the all metal Spitty ? Gorilla Glue and a good exterior PVA I've got. It's really strong and weather proof .I use it for garden furniture making and repairs. Lost the label sorry so don't know the name.👍🤔 Any similar glue will be as good as long as it's an outdoor type. Used diluted it penetrates well and thicker has a good grab if spread thinly. I also use UHU hart,plain balsa cement,contact adhesive,a plastic glue and Plastic Magic which will glue any plastic I've tried it on, plus Cyano and lots of other odds and sods. They all have their uses if used correctly. Gorilla is good for gluing mixed materials. Their wood (PVA?👍) glue is excellent too.
Lovely job Sky, Super blobs 👍 Must remember that! Now then; how many blobs would there be on a 330 ft destroyer? Or an 886 ft carrier? 🤔 Help😲 Jokes aside, great work, Cheers Doug 😎 Hmmm! Wonder if my ink jet printer can handle PVA ink 😁
Last couple of days has seen some detailing added to the rear cabin using the Waveney Lifeboats book for reference. all bits n bobs have been scratch built and are the general bits that seem to have been added to most of the 22 Waveneys that were in service with the RNLI. The cabin was was then primed before adding rivet detail using a cocktail stick and PVa glue blobs. The whole thing has had 3 coats of VW Halfords orange spray. Shall leave that to harden overnight before I detail paint the roof grab rail, add the black anti-dazzle panel and the name panels made from official RNLI vinyl lettering. The whole thing will get a couple of coats of laquer and then will be considered finished!
Hi Glyn, I wouldn't use silicone, as nothing else will stick where it has been, even paint will react with areas of contact. I know this from making a similar mistake myself. I have used small dabs of pva, and double sided tape, both have worked well for me. Hope this is helpful, cheers Colin.
Looking good Ed,👍 I've often wondered at the height of the stacks I've seen in old photos of steam tugs, so I don't think yours is over-tall. It's a pretty big model isn't it? I guess they wanted to keep the smoke clear of the work deck. Re 'getting wet': you could try sealing the tube with diluted white waterproof PVA wood glue? Or even with EzeKote from Deluxe Materials? Cheers Doug 😎
Finished nights this morning, had a couple of hours kip then thrashed some more planking! Stern end finished, main hull finished, just the bow uppers to put in. Once completed, will get some pva squeegee’d into the inside joints between planks and formers then will give the inside a couple of coats of resin. Once that’s done, rough sand the hull and fill the remaining gaps and blemishes with wood filler before final sanding and touch filling prior to glass clothing. Before I glass cloth, shall install prop shafts, motor mounts, motors, install decks then onwards with clothing.