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This is what she looked like in August I have ordered a new suit of cotton sails but I am also making a pair myself which are nearly finished and then it's time for a sail.I think the original suit in the picture are really too delicate to use The braine gear has been set aside and she now has radio control with seperate winches for the job and main The deck has been removed and she is glass lined as some of the planks were a little fragile She is obviously now a bit heavier than she was but a bit more user friendly I will post some pictures of her on the water
I am presently scratch building a 1 1:44th. scale model of Normandie 7 feet long as built June 1935. She will be radio controlled and fully lit. I started her in August and I have another month or two of work to complete.
How refreshing to read this thread. I built this kit in 1959/60 and from memory powered by a 1.5 c.c. E.D. diesel. Radio control I used a Reptone single channel unit for the rudder only. We had always had some sort of family boat on the river and not being able to be on board the RTTL was very frustrating for me. Sadly I sold the model as my training/career took hold. To this day I wonder if she has survived the test of time. She had a unique (highly illegal) ID number 2945. If any model boat enthusiast stumbles over my motley attempt at this Veron kit I would be very interested to hear? Good luck Skydive130 and enjoy the building experience!
I have to agree with jarvo remember the original boat was intended to have an IC engine and the radio control of the 1960s. Transistors were in use and the radio gear while it was bulky was not that heavy. Personally I would recommend you remove all of your batteries and stick in a decent 3cell LIPO. Where are you trying to ballast your boat down to? The originals ran with little if any extra ballast purist would say they were over scale speed but you have a throttle stick.
[Score: 10/10] 42" LCT Twin Propellors (2 Blade S Type) Direct Drive to a 2 x 400 brushed (2 Blade S Type) Powered by NiCad (9.6v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Mtronics 25 ESC - Comments: Built from a free plan and build article by Glynn Guest in Model Boats mag December 2009, but modified to suit 1/16th Sherman tank which is also radio controlled. Mainly balsa and lite ply construction. Ramp operated on pulley and servo arm system. Work in progress. Still needs gun turrets and handrails etc.
[Score: 5/10] 34"/3400g Swordsman hull Twin Propellors (3 Blade 45mm) Direct Drive to a Johnson 600 x 2 (3 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 7Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Chinese (80Amps) ESC - Comments: This was my first serious attempt at model boating and the hull a Swordsman fibreglass 34.1/2" was purchases 50 years ago from Radio Control supplies Isleworth in 1967 along with a used RCS Sequential radio. Over the years it's been powered by an ED 2.46 Racer a Merco 35 and finally my treasured OS61 VRM With a tuned pipe from Prestwich model boats. Now it's time for a a total rebuild so i,be decided to try twin contra rotating screws and brushed 600 motors. I'm looking to fit a superstructure akin to a Sea King. So far the hull has been stripped of all its hardware and all holes made good with resin and glass fibre tape. Currently making jigs to set up the two new propshafts More to follow
Scratch built model of a staem tug based on the St Canute. Length is 24 inches, and is radio controlled. I have attempted to make the finish as working boat , rather than something from a show case. I have just about completed the build. I was in the Merchant navy and lefty the the sea as a 1st mate in 1973. I always fancied building a model and saw the St Canute and decided to build a scratch build rather that a kit. I will put a photograph up when finished.
Just started my first timber model boat, will be converting it to radio controlled. Still waiting for some electronics, to turn up, motor, ESC, battery, then it will get serious. still have to source propeller and shaft when I find out motor shaft size. I've added a few photos of my barge I scratch built while waiting. It's Scotty scale and my little helper, Grandson Aiden, can't wait to see it in the water.
NPJ Yes I did mention in an earlier post re the space and see you have fitted the exciters there. You may not be able to use the original electronics with your new radio if it was all on one board ie rx and controls. Can you post a plarge pic of the board?
Hi Radiosailor I was not familiar with the model so have just searched. The Tug forum http://modeltugforum.com/ has an article by a member who did some mods. If you register you can see the pics and ask for advice. Regarding fixed or steerable nozzles they both work better than a standard prop. For maximum effect the steerable works best and this will certainly be the case with a single prop. I have had both types on tugs but mine were twin screw and I could turn both on the spot with independent motor control. From the motors you have I suspect the Xdrive 555 may have the best torque which as Doug said is best for Tugs. There are several suppliers but without knowing any measurements it's difficult to point you to a specific site. It should make into a nice model and will certainly look the part on the water. If you look on Model Slipiway's web site http://www.modelslipway.com/ they have a kit Al Khubar and AZIZ which are twin Kort. There are links to build blogs for the AZIZ which may be useful. Model Boats and MMI also had featured articles on builds for Al Khubar.
Hallo Kathy, my sympathies and commiserations, I also lost my Dad a little while ago. This a basically a UK site but we have very active members all over the world, including the US and Canada, so if you post some photos (or even a simple list (text catalogue with name of ship, type if you know! and size) you may get some responses from your side of the pond. Some of our US / Canadian members have connections to maritime museums and may be able to help you. Or may even want to buy one of the models! Even if static models many of us like the challenge of converting them to functional models. RNLI stands for Royal National Lifeboat Institute, it is the UK organisation which provides and maintains the lifeboat rescue services around the British Isles. It is totally funded by voluntary contributions, no government funding. All best wishes, Doug. In case you wonder about the site name RNinMunich; I'm English but have been living in Munich for over 30 years and my first radio control model was a Royal Navy ship!
Hi Kathy Sorry to hear of your loss. Are the models static (display only) or radio controlled models? Most charities are usually willing to accept donated models, and the RNLI may be a good starting point. If they are RC then you can advertise on this and other sites or even e-bay. Museums do sometimes accept particular models but they often have a vast collection already and many are in storage and not on public display. As a start you could take pictures of the models and post in the Forum under for sale and see if there is any interest. Don't post your e-mail address or telephone number to avoid getting spam. I usually just put a location like Cheshire UK to help identify your location.
This is the beginning of a ‘diary’ of events. It involves a small Tug, the Hobby Engine Richardson and my attempts to improve its performance. This is my first attempt at such a project and would not have been possible without the assistance of certain members of this site. For those not familiar with this model here are the basic details......... Pic1&2 At 1/32 scale ( 1 metre = 31.25mm; 1 inch = 2 feet 8 inches), it has a Length of 54cm (21.25 inches) beam 17cm (6.75inches) height to radio aerial top 37cm (14.5inches) and weight at 1924grams (4.5 lbs) with standard battery and fittings. It comes with 2.4 digital radio, 7.2v 800mAh rechargeable battery and charger. Features include:- Twin 280 motors, functioning internal lights, external lights, smoke and horn. So some (such as Rallyst) have quite rightly said “Why change it”? My answer is that I can never ‘leave well alone’ , that I found the transmitter controls rather ‘rough’, the battery life too short, the horn sound very weak and the smoke almost non existent. Plus the fact that it has been reported elsewhere that the steering when going astern was very hit and miss. So I started to take it apart! Pic3 It is easy to remove the Wheelhouse by sliding the dark grey locker at the front of the wheelhouse/bridge and the stairway. Once the unit is released, the white electrics connector underneath can be difficult and needs very gentle prising with a small screw driver. The other two plugs come easily. This is where members ‘Jarvo’ and ‘RNinMunich’ came to my aid............. However, some of the screws are obvious but others have been well hidden. They are to be found under some of the fittings on the deck. Pic4,5,6,7. The next move will be to remove the deck, but that is for next week. What am I hoping to achieve.....well from zero knowledge I would like to have engine sound connected to the throttle control, good horn sound, better control of steering when going astern and a six channel receiver with new transmitter that feels good to use!