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>> Home > Tags > radio control

radio control
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speed contoller
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Titanic by JeremyBB Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 19 days ago
I built this 1/125th scale Amati kit of the Titanic over two years from 2016. It has enhanced etched brass details from Minibrass. Conversion for radio control involved making the hull waterproof with multiple layers of fibreglass cloth bonded with epoxy resin as well as the installation of a drive train and RC gear. With only a tiny rudder, steering is dependent on a mixer unit controlling the differential speed of the propellors.

Spektrum, new, useless... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
Doug, I may well take you up on that, mate. I would really like to get it going. Could you PM me your postal address? The Jeti I first saw was the 14 channel and that was £845 for the TX and £70 something for the RX. but I was only interested in the Tx. I wanted to frame it and put it on my wall! Czechs are SO clever and the women are stunning. The new 18 channel is about £1400, but they aren't anywhere near the dearest, even if they are the best. Haverlock, you can sing the Taranis praises all you like but anything that needs a PC to fiddle with it to get anywhere is the last thing I would pay good money for. I am a great deal more impressed by aesthetics in engineering, than complication. If I wanted to know what the batteries were doing I'd bring the boat in for a look. It would add some interest to what is essentially a rather tedious pursuit (which is why I have a preference, still theoretical, for sail). Believe me, I would never "get" the Taranis or anything like it, in a month of Sundays. I'm just not interested in all that techy stuff. Norman, I'd appreciate any input if you fancy digging around in yours. I wouldn't know what to look at. I didn't when it was soft valves and 90Volt Ever-Ready batteries and I don't now. I might have had Radio Control Models and Electronics Magazine from No 1, but none of it made the slightest sense and my Dad, (who paid for the subscription) never had the time to read it. I couldn't tell you the difference twixt a Super-regen and a superhet, a tone or a reed set. My old chum still has a working ED reed 8 channel set, but when flying, he has to constantly retune something with a plastic screwdriver, WHILST FLYING!!! And how did anyone ever do full aerobatics with single channel bang-bang escapement rudder onlies? Cheers, Martin

Seaplane Tender 360 by Bryan-the-pirate Captain   Posted: 27 days ago
Having identified the boat the restoration starts... I was given the boat about 10 years ago but had done nothing with it. Finally I decided it was it's turn to be made operational. With the help of many on here the boat was identified as a kit built seaplane tender belonging to the RAF. Once it was established as a 41.5 ft version I looked at their history and decided that 360 had the best story having been loaned to the SOE during the war and had taken part in some agent landings and recoveries. The Boat was built in the late 50s/early 60s as a pond boat powered by 3 Every ready cardboard wrapped 4.5 batteries in series powering a Bassett lowke marine motor. Steered by a sprung set rudder. The decision to try and keep the finish as original as possible was easy but throws up some problems. I want radio control in the boat and have a nice large cabin to house it in but the rudder has no significant stem to attach a servo to so a new rudder is needed with an above waterline shaft. The Motor... Do I use that one or replace it with something modern. The cabin roof was warped ( see thread titled warped wood)

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Evenin' Martin, Oh dear oh dear oh dear! 😲 There is some good advice above, but maybe not optimally expressed for use by a Luddite! Sorry guys but this might be a relatively long post to separate the wheat from the chaff, explode a few myths and resolve this little conundrum of Martin's! One thing at a time! NUMBER1. THE RADIO- Dear Martin: Whatever possessed a self confessed Luddite and Scrooge like you to spring a large chunk of your hard earned pension on one of the most expensive and complex RC sets on the market in the first place???? I bought a Spektrum DX6 on impulse a few years ago while strolling around Conrad here in Munich. I've regretted it ever since. In retrospect it was way too expensive >600€, and complex. It is intended for the Fly Boys, as unfortunately most sets are these days. I have still not successfully programmed it to do what I want to do, instead of what it is pre-programmed to do for helis and fixed wing aircraft. Not even with it's own Spektrum RX, let alone a 'foreign' RX like Orange. So I have not yet risked it in a model. Definitely NOT my Catalina. Since then I have bought a Turnigy I6. Which does the same as the Spektrum, works fine with my Orange RX with giro for the Catalina😉, cost only 69€ (is now available for around 33 quid😡) and within a few hours I had it programmed and tested to do all I want in my destroyer and Sea Scout.👍 In short: the Spektrum is way way way Overkill for your yacht or Fire Float or similar, where you will only ever want rudder and sail servo / winch or rudder and speed control. So flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple (and cheap😉) 2 or 4 channel set. I can't imagine you ever wanting to start building special effects into your models so 2 (max 4) channels is all you will probably ever need. Stick your Spektrum on eBay, maybe you'll get at least a 100 quid for it. If you still want to go 2.4Gig get yourself a Turnigy i6 set with RX, 6 ch but cheap enough and I can help you directly with binding and programming from experience - I have a good English manual with no Chenglish gobbledygook. If not and you still have a working 27 or 40MHz FM set (40 would be better) use that. Where you sail, all alone, who's going to bother you or be bothered? BTW: Yes the Spektrum TX IS DSM2 and DSX compatible BUT you have to tell it what you want to use!!! Frankly I think trying that with a non-Spektrum RX is risky - especially first time out and for a novice Luddite😉 NUMBER 2. THE NiMh BATTERY- Voltage is not a reliable indication of battery charge / remaining capacity. After use a battery will recover slightly when at rest and the open terminal (off load) voltage will rise, often to the nominal voltage or slightly above. This is NO indicator of remaining charge as when a load is applied the voltage will drop again rapidly, the higher the current drawn the faster the voltage drops. If it goes below 1.0V per cell the battery will be permanently damaged and never regain it's original capacity. Haverlock is dead right about batteries losing charge when not used or regularly recharged. An NiMh batt loses charge at the rate of about 1% per day so after 3 months or so you can send it to the great recycling depot in the sky and buy a new one. Periodic cycling, discharge / charge prevents / minimises this - see care hints I posted above. And yes, NiMh do have that irritating Memory effect🤔 albeit not so pronounced as with NiCads. Lipos apparently not, but I ain't seen any evidence yet - the jury is still out! Sooo - ignore the 6.37V and run the batt through a discharge and full charge cycle. If your new NiMh batt has not yet been cycled and charged I would bet that it's present capacity is about 45%. See example below (and in attached pic) of one of my new 4.8V (nom) NiMh RX batts. NUMBER 3. THE CAPACITY CHECKER - "Glorified voltmeter" ? Where did the 6.37V reading come from if not from your 'new toy'? If it is showing volts it should also be showing capacity in %age. If you received the wrong thing it's not the "bloody electrics" but the bloody nit who packed and sent it that's at fault. Before you send it back check the below😉 Send me a photo of the Checker you have and with your battery plugged in so I can see what's happening on the display. Otherwise we are all poking about in the dark (Are we back to Jules and his friend Sandy😉😲) The link I sent you was for a checker exactly the same as mine except for the labelling! As you can see in my photo, properly connected it shows the terminal voltage and the remaining capacity (charge level) of the battery pack. Forget the Nixx (=2 Ni possibilities) display, that just means 'It ain't a LiXX' (3 Li- pissibolities). Attached photo shows a brand new 4 cell NiMh RX pack 4.8V (Nominal) connected to one of my Checkers. As you can see the voltage shown is 5.19V, according to the popular 'folklore' that would seem to indicate FULL charge. Unfortunately not🤔 Capacity indication is 45% which is normal for brand new batteries in storage and transit. Explanation thereof - see above! RE: " If it can do LiPos, why not the relatively simpler NiMhs?" a) the LiPo pack has a different chemistry and construction which requires different input circuitry on the checker, b) LiPos need balancing and are fitted with Balancer Plugs which connect to the multipin connectors on the checker. Each pin connects to one cell of the LiPo so that they can be monitored individually. LiPo chargers use this to balance the cells to within 0.01V (100mV) or less by adjusting the charge / discharge currents to each cell. The checkers use this to show you the individual cell voltages and charge states. A big difference, i.e.lower V and capacity, indicates cells with faults, e.g. higher internal resistance, or a discharged pack which needs charging and balancing. NiMh packs don't usually have this facility to measure individual cells. They are thus connected to a separate input on the checker which can then only show total pack terminal voltage and capacity. BTW: if you can get it passed 'THE Management' store your battery packs in the fridge😲 The 'coolth' slows down the rate of self discharge, which is a function of the battery internal resistance, which reduces slightly with reduced temperature😉 Enough for now, back to stripping my PTB for it's Midlife Refit! Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Martin: Just saw your post about another RX. Why the hell not buy a Spektrum designed Rx guaranteed to work with their TX? Or better still; flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple Turnigy set as above, also recommended by Ron, albeit the 9 ch version. All this frigging about with 'claimed compatible' bits and pieces just wastes money and time, fogs the issue and don't prove nutt'n!

Newbie radio control question by deepdiver Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
I have the 9xR Pro from Turnigy. at the price I payed for it was so good, it is very light in the hand and all the controls just full to hand also I found it very easy to bind with all my receivers. Fred

Newbie radio control question by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Every sub dives - at least once! 😁

Newbie radio control question by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
one is tempted to point out submarines do go down and some times even come back up!

Council madness... by commodore Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
I've just been reminded of an incident on our local pond a few years ago. One of our club converted a duck decoy into a radio controlled model complete with four little ducklings towed behind on transparent fishing line. It looked so realistic that a woman within her two daughters started chucking breadcrums at them. Then a park warden came along and told them to stop as white bread was not good for the birds and it also polluted the water!

Controls problem by malcolmstroud Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
I went along to Bury Metro Marine Modelling Society and got some good advice from a chap called Peter (may not be the same one...) Thank you. The upshot is I'll be swapping the dodgy App-driven Tx/Rx for a proper one. And why did I buy an unbuilt trawler model? Well the 2ch radio control will come in handy as a test setup anyway!

Controls problem by malcolmstroud Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi there This is my first boat model build and my first post, so apologies... I have a passing familiarity with model aircraft radio control, and a fair amount of scale experience, but a couple of years ago took it into my head to convert a 1:400 scale Titanic model to r/c. I worked out the circuit with a lot of study, using an Mtronics W tail mixer, 3 Viper ESCs, three coreless motors and a Kyosho 2.4GHz receiver. The build went reasonably well, and when I connected it all up and tested it the motors ran and could be controlled with the Android phone app more or less as desired. However, I knew the power supply being connected to the receiver wasn't ideal so I disconnected it all, intending to connect the power through one of the ESCs. After leaving it for a couple of months I can't get it to work again in any configuration, or even get the ESCs to enter set-up mode again. Is there anyone in the North of England who can give me some hands-on advice? Have a look at the set-up? I have spent many fruitless hours trying to get it working again. I feel sure it's something simple I am overlooking. I am in West Yorkshire, near Halifax/Rochdale. At this rate I am thinking about just making it controlled with an on/off switch. I will put a photo in the photo gallery or here if I can. Thank you.

advise required by teejay Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi all and thanks to Ron and Doug I have not forgotten about the TGY-i6 set and have looked at the suggestions from Ron. I looked at a lot of stuff it can be a bit of mine field, I have fond this at Cornwall models Servo, Batteries, Charger & 15A ESC This pack provides the radio control unit and all items necessary to complete an RC boat kit. Certain models may need a motor Contents: 2-Channel transmitter Reflex Pro 3.1 2.4GHZ 5-Channel receiver, CS-3 steering servo (3kg/cm force) Transmitter batteries, 7.2v/2100mAh drive battery 15Amp Marine Electronic Speed Controller Plug charger Multi-lingual instructions Part No: CMBRCP15 I think this may be the way for me to go as it seem to have all the things I need to learn about in the one package, I know I may have to up grade some parts but for the first timer I think it would do your opinions would be much appreciated

Newbie radio control question by JBRCfloats Seaman   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi, Just thought I would comment regarding the difference between Mode 1 vs Mode 2. I fly aircraft, but the configuration should be the same using the radio for boats. Mode 1 - Elevator/Rudder stick on the left. Throttle/Aileron stick on the right. Mode 2 - Throttle/Rudder stick on the left. Aileron/Elevator stick on the right. I'm getting into boats now and my radio that I will using is set up in the mode 2 configuration. The choice depends on what you have used in the past or the type of radios your boating buddies use. In aircraft flying we always use the same modes just in case someone has to step in and take over the flying. In boating I don't think this a criteria due to the fact the boat would go down like aircraft do sometimes. Hope this helps.

Newbie radio control question by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
'E' just meant 'Enemy' TJ 😉 NATO codes for USSR stuff, like FOXBAT, FIREFOX etc etc, came much later when the Cold War started. And I heartily agree with the TGY-i6 recommendation, been using one for some time, very reliable and no problems - once you find a decent English language manual without all the Chenglish gobbledygook. I have one in PDF format if you want. See also above re Mode 1 and Mode 2, forget it, you can easily use the set the way YOU want and not what the manufacturers pre-programmed for the 'Fly Boys' 👍 Cheers Doug 😎

advise required by teejay Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi all and thanks to Ron and Doug I have not forgotten about the TGY-i6 set and have looked at the suggestions from Ron. I looked at a lot of stuff it can be a bit of mine field, I have fond this at Cornwall models Servo, Batteries, Charger & 15A ESC This pack provides the radio control unit and all items necessary to complete an RC boat kit. Certain models may need a motor Contents: 2-Channel transmitter Reflex Pro 3.1 2.4GHZ 5-Channel receiver, CS-3 steering servo (3kg/cm force) Transmitter batteries, 7.2v/2100mAh drive battery 15Amp Marine Electronic Speed Controller Plug charger Multi-lingual instructions Part No: CMBRCP15 I think this may be the way for me to go as it seem to have all the things I need to learn about in the one package, I know I may have to up grade some parts but for the first timer I think it would do your opinions would be much appreciated

Vanity, Victorian Cutter by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Thanks, Doug, KMB. I don't actually know what Dacron line is! I have some nice braided stuff, which doesn't stretch. It reminds me of the stuff my Dad used to get from RS Components to renew the tuning cord on old radios, you know the ones that went "weeoowah oop", when you twiddled the knob on Medium wave mainly. I got 10 metres of it for pennies. I haven't come up with any method for attaching the sheets to the loop yet. Some kind of fancy knot, I'm assuming. Just need mainsail and one jib. The jib is loose footed on Vanity, as are umpteen staysails, but I am not going to shoot the goose that laid the golden egg where my wife making sails is concerned and get greedy. A topsail would look nice though. I am a real beginner with this sail control stuff. My only experience of a model yacht was an old plastic 575 of my brother's, which was only rigged for rudder control. The sails went where they felt best! But I had hours of fun with it on the river outside my house. I have a finished Veron Veronica in the loft, which I'll get going when I've done Vanity. That'll probably just get rudder control. I also have a huge and lovely pre-War Marblehead which a dear friend gave me. That will have to be done with all sails and rudder control, though quite where I'll sail it I don't know. Cheers, Martin