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You're as BAD as me Boaty 😉 but I had a Rover 2000 with fully reclining seats back then - no problem 😁 Re 3 wires on a brushless. Simply put, this is analogous to a 3 phase AC motor (such as used in bathroom extractor fans etc). If you apply a single phase AC voltage to an AC motor it just twitches backwards and forwards in the same place as the voltage crosses from the positive to the negative half cycle. Thus 3 phases are applied giving 3 'shoves' in sequence to keep things moving. A starter capacitor is also needed to give the motor a 'belt' to shove it off. Similarly with a brushless: the ESC senses where the motor armature is in relation to the magnet poles and applies a DC pulse to the next armature coil in sequence. When you shove the throttle up the pulse width lengthens applying a longer shove and thus more energy and speed. Pulling the throttle back with a reversible ESC just turns the pulse train upside down so that negative DC pulses are applied to the motor, reversing the magnetic field created in the armature and thus the rotation. Simple really. It's the sensing and timing done inside the ESC that's the tricky bit, which is why we had to wait about a hundred years from the invention of the AC motor (Nikolai Tesla) until we could use them in models - thanks to micro-electronics. Here endeth today's seminar 😁😁 Happy brushlessing Folks, cheers, Doug 😎 Hmmm, perhaps that's why electric toothbrushes use brushed motors! 😁😜
before you start ripping out your prop shaft an 850 should be able to use your existing prop. Specifications of 800 and 850 Overall length 110mm (4.3/8’’) - Width (inc. fixing plate) 50mm (2’’) - Weight 585g (20.6OZ) - Voltage 12v DC (reversible by reversing polarity) - RPM for 800 (no load) 5100 & for 850 (no load) 9778 - Current consumption for 800 (no load) 1 amp- maximum efficiency 5.3amps-suggested maximum continuous 7 amps-current consumption stalled 28amps and for the 850 Current consumption 1.9amp (no load) - maximum efficiency 10.8 amps - suggested maximum continuous 13 amps - current consumption stalled 40 amps - Suggested prop size for both motors: 45,50,55 & 62mm in 2 blade nylon or equivalent 3 blade brass
no, they can turn outwards or inwards, as per my previous post, its trial and error whatever suits that application, its an easy job to swop them over, and just try it, by just swopping them over left to right, and reversing the motors. The blades just have to turn the correct way to drive the boat forwards
Hi Boatshed. The motor is a Turnigy SK3 4250 controlled by a 90A boat ESC by Hobbyking, batteries are 2 x 9.6v 500mAh in series. This is a recommended combination by Vintage Model Works. Incidentally the motor in my original 34" crash tender was a Taycol Supermarine. I would thoroughly recommend a brushless motor and a boat ESC to give you the reversing function. Fortunately there is a wealth of useful information about brushless motors on this site and I'm sure that someone more knowledgeable than me can advise you on the most suitable motor/ESC/battery combination for your boat. Mine has yet to have it's maiden voyage so I can't report on the performance but I'm quite confident that it will be a lot quicker than the one I built all those years ago ! Rob.
HI Georgio Only just seen this post. I'm guessing this relates to your lifeboat and the motors are some Johnson type 600 ex drill motors. I have looked up the specs but can only see details for 9v where 2 amps is quoted. There are quite a few posts on the web regarding this type of motor and it would appear they come in many varieties with different specs so it is possible your motors are not suitable for 12v. The fact that they are blowing the fuses in an unloaded state would suggest this is the case. Others have said on the web that their motors and wiring become very hot very quickly indicating too high a voltage. It is possible that the ESC is damaged, reversing the red and black wires can damage the Output transistor. You can check by disconnecting and insulating the motor leads and switching on. If it still blows a fuse the problem is with the ESC. Stephen has already mentioned the size of prop, it should not be of greater diameter than the motor casing. It is possible that one or both motors are damaged due to overheating and as has been suggested a quick check with a meter between a battery and each motor in turn will indicate if there is a problem. A picture of your model and internal set up, plus the props would help us give more help. Dave
hI quirky Welcome to the site. Your Planet set will work fine with your model. If you need a separate rx these can be had for about £20 from many suppliers. The new rx will need binding to you existing Tx but It Is a simple procedure and covered In the manual. Wiring Is straight forward. Assuming you are using the Tx with the rudder on the right horizontal stick and the throttle on the left vertical stick, the rudder servo plug needs to go In the No1 channel In the receiver. The ESC plug need to go In the 2nd or third rx channel. The black wire on the lead needs to go to the -ve connection, often marked on the rx. Futaba type connectors have a small tag which will only fit the correct way. You will need to check the correct channel for your chosen stick as they may be different from those I have Indicated. If your ESC has a built In ESC then It will provide power to the RX. If not you will need a separate 4.8v battery to plug In the rx battery slot, don't use this for the ESC plug as there Is no signal connection. The connection to the battery should be by the red ( ve) and black (-ve) wires from the ESC. There may be a connector (Tamiya) to fit the battery but you can replace this to suit. Do check you have the correct orientation as reversing the polarity will damage (destroy) the ESC. As this Is a brushless motor I am assuming you have a brushless ESC which will have three wires for connection to the three on the motor. Doesn't matter which way you connect but If the motor runs the wrong way for your chosen stick movement ( most choose to push up for forward) then you change over any two leads and the motor will reverse. Do not connect the battery whilst you are making the connections and check everything before you do connect. Make sure your prop Is clear of any obstruction (fingers etc) as brushless motors are very fast and powerful. Hopefully all will be OK but please ask If anything Is unclear or you need further help Happy sailing Dave 😀
sorry for the delay In replying Dave (work commitments) and thanks for the advice I particularly like the three prop Idea. I have a problem In as much as I love doing things for the sake of It and this opens up an opportunity. Thanks again mate
HI Mick Just seen your post. You can reverse a brushless by changing any two of the three wires between the ESC and the motor. However I would not wish to try this until the motor was stationary. As you will be switching whilst the motor Is stationary there will be no currentso with a small motor 10 amp switches should suffice. How you Identify that the motor Is stationary may not be simple. As you are aware there are reversible brushless ESCs but most are designed for model cars and they apply the brakes before you can select reverse so Its a two push process on the tranny stick. It doesn't always work and mine sometimes seem to have a mind of their own. The more expensive types designed for model boats do seem to be more controllable. As you are building a Vosper, many had two props and you could add a third with two for forward and one In the centre for reverse. You would need three motors and ESCs (Giant Shark have a sale on at present) but they could all be plugged Into one channel so a single stick would control fwd & reverse with centre off. Good luck with whatever you decide. Please ask If you need more help or advice Dave
HI I was given the one I currently have and was going to buy a brushless motor, I am quite new to the hobby and I do have a couple of 540 brushed motors with ESCs. I was thinking of using micro switches to reverse the polarity but these would need a high rating. I take your point about price of a new one I could get a motor and ESC. for £35-£50. I am building a hull based on the Ron Rees amazing hull design but I have made It with the lower chine curving up at the front and and flared In a convex curve If that makes sense. This makes It a bit Vosper MTB/ASRL looking so I would like a slightly lively performance without being too fast. I may submit a build blog on the hull which Is 24"x 7"
HI everyone I have a query yhat someone may be able to answer.I would like to know Is It possible to use an ESC. with forward only to reverse a motor by putting a switch/switches between the ESC. and the motor. The motor Is quite small It Is the one recommended by the vintage model boat co. on their website. Cheers Mick (The blacksmith)
The maiden voyage. Well, mixed fortunes. The Cunning Plan Mk1c - steering system, small fire boats for the use of worked a treat 👍 Unfortunately the overall weight proved more of a problem than I expected. There was power a plenty and she went like the clappers but getting there was a bit nerve wracking. The angle of the props forced the bow down and I had to be careful until the hull generated enough lift to get the bow up and a give nice bow wave. Not planing like her larger sisters but she did look something like the picture on the box. You can see the problem In the water shot, the green stuff on the foredeck Is some pond weed we're plagued with at the moment. (Photos 10 and 10A) The battery position Is tricky as this will be single heaviest part of the kit. As you see In Photo 9 I tried Velcro-ing It to the roof of the aft cabin but this put the CoG of the boat too far back and left the transom gunwale just above the water meaning that the well deck would fill with the slightest wave or when reversing. The maiden trip was with a 'hump' 6v pack just ahead of the motors but this meant that although the boat was level the bows were a bit too low. The current set-up Is 4 AA batteries, 2 either side of the motors and 2 In the roof as before. It looks OK In the bath........ I hope this will Inspire some of you to take the plunge. I'm no engineer and have completed this with a standard household drill, a Dremel type drill for cutting the cockpit hole and the usual small pliers, wire cutters, small files and tweezers any modeller will have to hand and a small desk mounted vice. The only slightly specialist tools were a pack of fine drill bits and a couple of pin drills obtained on Ebay. A small pillar drill would have made drilling the rudder shafts a lot easier but I passed the Initiative test (and only broke one drill bit). I only have a very basic understanding of electricity and have only just figured out soldering. This Isn't Intended to be a definitive solution and If you can see alternatives to the above, especially the power plant let us know. Using lighter motors will help and using just one will too, but driving contra-rotating props from one motor Is beyond me - at the moment. Oh, and I really wouldn't advise taking the whole deck off. You'll never get It back on properly unless you're very good or very lucky. I am contemplating rebuilding the test boat but with a completely new deck structure probably made of balsa wood to save weight - and because I bought a load cheap a while ago...........
I once fitted a speed controller to a vintage Taycol motor. Because of the field windings, you will have to find a way of switching the field and armature windings Independently. I used a mechanical resistance mat for the armature and a home made rotary reversing switch for the field. These old motors are bullet proof but filthy dirty electrically. I would not trust them with 27 or 40megs. You might get away with 2.4Gig
HI Ray Outrunner brushless are usually best In model boats. You will need a brushless speed controller and one that Is reversible. Many sellers will say their controller Is reversible (it Is If you change over two of the three wires) but you need one that has built In reversing. If you buy a marine controller (water cooled) this should be OK. I am Intrigued why you want to fit one Into a Tug as their main use Is In fast speed models. I suppose you could use some form of reduction unit but brushless motors normally run at a few thousand revs per volt and are not noted for slow speed. Please do let us know how you get on and advise details of your set up. Good luck. Dave