|
|
|
Maree III is a 10 Rater Sharpie design by A Wilcock dating back to 1958. MM plan MM/504. I first built her in 1996 but as with all these things family life got in the way or changed and I stopped taking her out. At some point I must have sold her but I can’t remember how or when. A few weeks back I decided to build something again and found the original plans under the bench so where better to start than there. I also found the MM Plans catalogue which is how I found the first date (Plan ordered 06/08/1996 pencilled in the margin). The original design does not have a bulb keel but I have decided mine will but not with the narrow carbon fin as used on the latest boat designs. She is also not for competition so I plan to include a cabin top for a more ‘scale’ appearance. Must give my thanks early on for the help I have had from David Creed who researched some old plans to find me a suitable design for the bulb keel but with a quite broad fin. As a result I have now made a plug for the bulb and a box in which to make the silicone mould. I have also cut out all the rib moulds so I can start laying up the hull. It is a monocoque design so these are just to build the hull shape. There will then only be a couple of ribs around the keel mount and mast step to add strength in those areas. Been buying materials but it is not easy as the plans have very little info on the sails and rigging.
|
|
|
|
Here's the sails. New rigging cord arrived today too. Martin
|
|
|
|
|
|
[Score: 9/10] 39"/3400g Sir Kay (T241) Capable of 3mph and a runtime of 30mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 50mm) Geared to a MFA Geared 2.5:1 (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (7.2v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Mtroniks (5Amps) ESC - Comments: This is my Sir Kay (T241) - Round Table Class Minesweeper. It is from the Caldercraft range and I was fortunate to recently acquire it - I would have much preferred to have built it but couldn't miss the opportunity of it being given to me by an old retiring modeller. It just needed new RC throughout, a good clean, a tidy up and some fresh paint here and there plus a bit of rigging renewal. Not tried it in the water yet but will do tomorrow at our Club meet. Tried it today and it sailed really well, stable and sits perfectly on the water and one 3000mA 7.2 NiMH battery lasted all afternoon - so pleased with it.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Some pictures of the original sails and rigging, to my surprise the carbon fibre mast was in two sections, there is no mention of this in any manual or information regarding this boat. It could be a replacement (Perhaps a fishing rod!).
|
|
|
|
|
|
"Maybe but ballast ,is ballast,is ballast. However it's achieved." Sure John, but at least a heavy battery is useful load and not 'just' ballast.😉 Have no idea what shaft power the Fuji produces (only know their excellent 35mm film😉) but the Taycol Supermarine is rated at 22.5mHP (22.5/1000HP) at 3.5A, 4000rpm. Efficiency 52% 🤔 so you have to stick twice as much electrical power in to achieve that! Sooo, given that 1HP = 745.7 Watts - And electrically P=IxV (Current x Volts) 22.5/1000HP = (745.7*22.5)/1000 = 16.778W so ~33.55W in. Thus if I = 3.5A they must have done that test / measurement at about 9.6V. The Supermarine also runs great at 12V but maybe not with max efficiency!? With a spec weight of 2&1/2 lb i don't even want to get into Power to Weight Ratio, although I measured Colin's motor at 947gm = 2.0877776229lb 😉 But then, some of the motor had corroded away As I'm currently renovating a Supermarine for Colin H. This makes me start thinking about rigging up a test jig so I can see what it actually produces!!! Always up for a challenge 😁 Got nowt else to do 😁😁 Would be useful for other motors as well if I can get it figured out😉 Happy fiddlin' folks, cheers, Doug 😎
|
|
|
|
|
|
Hi Ed, Make it a 12 foot Log Periodic then you can cover a wider frequency range and sharpen the beam and antenna gain at the same time😉😁 Moral; don't trade antenna jokes with a COMMS engineer 😁😁 Sorry Ed, couldn't resist that, but can appreciate your annoyance with the WiFi. I got so fed up with WLAN drop outs I simply bought a router with more ports and hardwired all my LAN gear. I've also separated my Internet and HD TV feeds on separate systems so that I can't lose everything if one system goes down - power cuts excepted😲 Haven't got around to rigging up an auto back-up diesel genny yet😉 Since then no snags - fingers tightly crossed! BTW: if the distributor in your block is a communal system have a moan to the house / facility management or whatever you call it over there. Also check around if your neighbours are having similar problems. Cheers, Doug 😎
|
|
|
|
|
|
So, I have managed to crack on quite a bit this week. Ive done a heap at work on nights this week, followed by near enough a whole weekend of no interuptions as the "long haired Segeant Major" has been at her parents for the weekend!😁 it took a couple of days to build the coxswains console out of balsa and alot of fettling with plastitube and sheet, very please with the outcome. its not 100% scale acurate as is the rest of the model, but close enough to give a good representation of the wheelhouse contents. Just the Coxswain and seat to build and paint for a completed wheelhouse. The rest of the weekend has seen the cockpit just about finished, painted and laquered. So, to complete the model the following items need to be built, painted and fitted. Radar mount and radar, instrument dials, cockpit glazing, antenna mast and rigging, towing bitt, rear cockpit railing and winch, hull grab ropes, anchor, and finally about 2 kilos of lead ballast to get her sitting right on the water. I reckon another week to 10 days for a completed model!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Purchased new in kit form, from Robbe. 1998. Specifications:- Overall length: 1380mm. Overall beam: 360 mm. Draught: 300 mm. Mast height: 1800 mm. Overall height: 2200 mm. Standard sail area: 80 square dm. Sail area with Genoa: 94 square dm. Total displacement: 12 kg. Ballast: 8 kg. Scale: 1:10 Control Robbe Futaba F14 Marine transmitter / receiver. Channel 1 - Rudder servo. Channel 2 - Spare. Channel 3 - Genoa sail servo. Genoa switch module - fitted between the stick potentiometer and the transmitter channel 3 Socket. (Reverses the Genoa sail servo for Port or Starboard tack.) Channel 4 - Main sail servo. Channel 5 - Auxiliary 3 position switch - up position. Channel 6 - Auxiliary 3 position switch - down position. Receiver channel 5 - Mono Memory relay module. To drive the Blister motor out, to raise the Genoa Sail Clew. Receiver channel 6 - Mono Memory relay module. To drive the Blister motor in, to tighten the Genoa Sail Clew. Recently recovered from the back of the shed, where it has been in hibernation. Now I am retired and have some free time, it is under a review and refurbishment. New paint on the deck and upper hull (above the waterline). Solid state relay modules added, to replace the micro switches, operated from a cam on a servo (replacing analogue channel 2 with on/off channels 5 and 6). Pictures show the sea trials after the 10 year hibination. The Genoa Module had failed in the carbon potentiometers. No replacement available, so found a local electronics repairers, who changed the potentiometers for £10.00. The carrying cradle was designed to hold the sails, and secure the yacht while rigging at the waters edge. Also acts as a dry dock, while working inside the hull. When the repaired module is fitted, and the Genoa sail is operational, I will post detailed video of the Genoa sail winch and Blister motor and their operation while sailing. Genoa Sail Pictures added.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Afternoon Ed, I have a similar type of novelty / souvenir shop model on the shelf above my desk. It's the Mayflower. Bought it in Portugal years ago. Pain in the neck to get the dust off the sails and rigging😡 Happy crew hunting. Lucky to have two such stores within striking distance. Cheers, Doug 😎
|
|
|
|
|
|
First sail with temp sails and rigging
|
|
|
|
|
|
If it's a Dutch barge, finish it as one. I reckon the large handkerchief idea would do, Or piece of shirting fabric. You can glue the edges to look like seams. Glue a piece of thin rigging cord in as a bolt rope. Martin
|
|
|
|
|
|
Hi All Masts all set in and started on the rigging!!! Ask my good wife to make some sails for the boat. Canabus
|
|
|
|
|
|
will be building 2 rigs for sailing normal and gaff as a test i will be using ripstop nylon and temp rigging
|
|
|
|
|
|
Almost at he end of what has been a long, sometimes frustrating, but very satisfying build. As the masts and spars are very thin, using my usual fishing line as rigging was going to cause problems with getting anything like the correct tension. What I ended up with was 0.45mm nickel silver rod. The fineness of the rod gave it a natural 'sag' for radio aerials and it is rigid enough for stays and supports. Hope someone finds this useful. Steve
|
|
|
|
|
|
Evenin' Martin, Oh dear oh dear oh dear! 😲 There is some good advice above, but maybe not optimally expressed for use by a Luddite! Sorry guys but this might be a relatively long post to separate the wheat from the chaff, explode a few myths and resolve this little conundrum of Martin's! One thing at a time! NUMBER1. THE RADIO- Dear Martin: Whatever possessed a self confessed Luddite and Scrooge like you to spring a large chunk of your hard earned pension on one of the most expensive and complex RC sets on the market in the first place???? I bought a Spektrum DX6 on impulse a few years ago while strolling around Conrad here in Munich. I've regretted it ever since. In retrospect it was way too expensive >600€, and complex. It is intended for the Fly Boys, as unfortunately most sets are these days. I have still not successfully programmed it to do what I want to do, instead of what it is pre-programmed to do for helis and fixed wing aircraft. Not even with it's own Spektrum RX, let alone a 'foreign' RX like Orange. So I have not yet risked it in a model. Definitely NOT my Catalina. Since then I have bought a Turnigy I6. Which does the same as the Spektrum, works fine with my Orange RX with giro for the Catalina😉, cost only 69€ (is now available for around 33 quid😡) and within a few hours I had it programmed and tested to do all I want in my destroyer and Sea Scout.👍 In short: the Spektrum is way way way Overkill for your yacht or Fire Float or similar, where you will only ever want rudder and sail servo / winch or rudder and speed control. So flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple (and cheap😉) 2 or 4 channel set. I can't imagine you ever wanting to start building special effects into your models so 2 (max 4) channels is all you will probably ever need. Stick your Spektrum on eBay, maybe you'll get at least a 100 quid for it. If you still want to go 2.4Gig get yourself a Turnigy i6 set with RX, 6 ch but cheap enough and I can help you directly with binding and programming from experience - I have a good English manual with no Chenglish gobbledygook. If not and you still have a working 27 or 40MHz FM set (40 would be better) use that. Where you sail, all alone, who's going to bother you or be bothered? BTW: Yes the Spektrum TX IS DSM2 and DSX compatible BUT you have to tell it what you want to use!!! Frankly I think trying that with a non-Spektrum RX is risky - especially first time out and for a novice Luddite😉 NUMBER 2. THE NiMh BATTERY- Voltage is not a reliable indication of battery charge / remaining capacity. After use a battery will recover slightly when at rest and the open terminal (off load) voltage will rise, often to the nominal voltage or slightly above. This is NO indicator of remaining charge as when a load is applied the voltage will drop again rapidly, the higher the current drawn the faster the voltage drops. If it goes below 1.0V per cell the battery will be permanently damaged and never regain it's original capacity. Haverlock is dead right about batteries losing charge when not used or regularly recharged. An NiMh batt loses charge at the rate of about 1% per day so after 3 months or so you can send it to the great recycling depot in the sky and buy a new one. Periodic cycling, discharge / charge prevents / minimises this - see care hints I posted above. And yes, NiMh do have that irritating Memory effect🤔 albeit not so pronounced as with NiCads. Lipos apparently not, but I ain't seen any evidence yet - the jury is still out! Sooo - ignore the 6.37V and run the batt through a discharge and full charge cycle. If your new NiMh batt has not yet been cycled and charged I would bet that it's present capacity is about 45%. See example below (and in attached pic) of one of my new 4.8V (nom) NiMh RX batts. NUMBER 3. THE CAPACITY CHECKER - "Glorified voltmeter" ? Where did the 6.37V reading come from if not from your 'new toy'? If it is showing volts it should also be showing capacity in %age. If you received the wrong thing it's not the "bloody electrics" but the bloody nit who packed and sent it that's at fault. Before you send it back check the below😉 Send me a photo of the Checker you have and with your battery plugged in so I can see what's happening on the display. Otherwise we are all poking about in the dark (Are we back to Jules and his friend Sandy😉😲) The link I sent you was for a checker exactly the same as mine except for the labelling! As you can see in my photo, properly connected it shows the terminal voltage and the remaining capacity (charge level) of the battery pack. Forget the Nixx (=2 Ni possibilities) display, that just means 'It ain't a LiXX' (3 Li- pissibolities). Attached photo shows a brand new 4 cell NiMh RX pack 4.8V (Nominal) connected to one of my Checkers. As you can see the voltage shown is 5.19V, according to the popular 'folklore' that would seem to indicate FULL charge. Unfortunately not🤔 Capacity indication is 45% which is normal for brand new batteries in storage and transit. Explanation thereof - see above! RE: " If it can do LiPos, why not the relatively simpler NiMhs?" a) the LiPo pack has a different chemistry and construction which requires different input circuitry on the checker, b) LiPos need balancing and are fitted with Balancer Plugs which connect to the multipin connectors on the checker. Each pin connects to one cell of the LiPo so that they can be monitored individually. LiPo chargers use this to balance the cells to within 0.01V (100mV) or less by adjusting the charge / discharge currents to each cell. The checkers use this to show you the individual cell voltages and charge states. A big difference, i.e.lower V and capacity, indicates cells with faults, e.g. higher internal resistance, or a discharged pack which needs charging and balancing. NiMh packs don't usually have this facility to measure individual cells. They are thus connected to a separate input on the checker which can then only show total pack terminal voltage and capacity. BTW: if you can get it passed 'THE Management' store your battery packs in the fridge😲 The 'coolth' slows down the rate of self discharge, which is a function of the battery internal resistance, which reduces slightly with reduced temperature😉 Enough for now, back to stripping my PTB for it's Midlife Refit! Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Martin: Just saw your post about another RX. Why the hell not buy a Spektrum designed Rx guaranteed to work with their TX? Or better still; flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple Turnigy set as above, also recommended by Ron, albeit the 9 ch version. All this frigging about with 'claimed compatible' bits and pieces just wastes money and time, fogs the issue and don't prove nutt'n!
|
|
|
|
Chief Petty Officer Posted: 5 days ago
Fleet Admiral! Posted: 6 days ago
Commander Posted: 9 days ago
Sub-Lieutenant Posted: 3 months ago
Lieutenant Posted: 3 months ago
