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The down side of prop rotation is that the Europeans use one method of defining it and the Americans use another - and they are contradictory. From the Prop-Shop site "Please note that propeller rotation is based on the British and American standard (viewing the boat from the stern) which is the opposite to that in Germany." See https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,3541...
I'm just starting to try to "tune" my boat by playing about with propellers but I've hit a real newbie question: When suppliers talk about a prop being right- or left- handed (presumably that it is designed to spin clockwise/anticlockwise) are they talking about the view of the prop from the front or rear of the boat? Viewed from the rear, I need a prop that spins anti-clockwise - so is that LH? (or is it RH?) Thanks for not laughing (too much)! Ian
[Score: 5/10] 36"/5000g Fairey Swordsman Single Propellor (3 Blade 45mm) Direct Drive Powered by Lead Acid (6v) 8Amp/h Batteries - Comments: Bought this some years ago with a holed hull and no cabin. Made only those repairs needed to make it useable, fitted new 2.4Ghz radio gear and batteries, and have been using it ever since. I keep threatening to restore it properly but it's fun as it is and a rebuild is probably more realistic anyway.
I think the Digimax had interchangeable crystals - but didn't it also have 4-wire servos? If so, you will need a full Digimax set.... In general, it is not a good idea to use Vintage equipment unless you know what you are doing. The kit will be old, could need maintenance or repair (which may not be easy to source) and will have less range, reliability and interference rejection capability than modern sets. It will be 27Mhz. You may have to repair the electronics yourself. If you source a transmitter which SHOULD work with it, but doesn't, you will need expert attention to determine what is wrong - again, this will be hard to find. I assume that you do not know if that receiver works at the moment.... Running vintage radios is rather like running vintage cars. They look great when they are operating properly, but need a lot of work to maintain, and do not perform as well as modern kit. One source of help might be the Single Channel and Vintage RC group here - http://www.singlechannel.co.uk . They have specialists in old equipment...
[Score: 7/10] 42"/8000g PS Iona Capable of 4mph and a runtime of 60mins Chain to a Heng Long Powered by NiMH (7.2v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Viper 15 ESC - Comments: It has paddles not propellors! Scratch-built from plan. 2 paddle motors provide independent operation, hence can turn 360 degrees on the spot. Built from wood, brass, 3D printed parts.
A bit of a miscellany here - the funnel fittings or mounts at the top are 3D printed and the 'rope' is some sort of elastic string used in jewellery making. This... 1) keeps it straight which is difficult with regular string or wire, 2) doesn't get damaged when you catch it with a stray arm, tool, etc. Brass steam fittings turned on my lathe. The forward hatch was built in case extra ballast was needed, but has had a beneficial side effect. No ballast was needed and the hatch is filled with foam, so I can wedge in a mini tripod and mount a camera up front. Only briefly tested but looks promising The windlass is a kit from mobile marine models. Easy to construct and looks the part. Tow hook 3D printed.
Looking at the proper rudder location, I added some 1/4 triangular hardwood blocking to both sides of the centerboard. Needed blocking to drill through. Was able to pickup the work board and all fit under my drill press to keep the hole plumb. Rudder post will be a 1/4 brass rod with brass tube as a bushing. See photo, brass tube in hull. Next, I built a rudder substructure assembly which will be covered later with a wood or styrene full size rudder to fit the era. Took some very thin brass and formed it around the post, some brass plate and soldered as seen in photos. Brass heats up and solders well using my soldering station.
Hi al2612, and rather a pity that folks on here don't have proper names. Anyway, besides that try googling mountfleet models and mobile marine who have a reasonable range of tugs. It has to be an Empire tug, WW2 ish, have a crack at googling Empire Paul Tug. Regards, Gary.
Today I did a full test of current smoker build, it went very well, nice consistent smoke, very visible. I used just straight a mineral Oil, type sold in Pharmacies. I chose not to use the baby oil again because it had too much of an odor. See video attached. I ran it for one hour, it stays consistent and there was no build up of heat, tin stayed cool. Check of the heating element and wick showed no damage, no build up of any kind, very clean. When I get a chance, I will put a multimeter on it and test the draw so I can fuse it properly. Thanks for you interest. Joe
The tin can that I used is from a small tomato paste sauce from the market. Use whatever tin that you would like or can find. Look at my sketch to see how it needs to function and adjust your design to what enclosure is available to you. Lots of ways to do it, just make sure you have these points covered: 1. Method of attaching a fan to push air into the unit. 2. Place for output stack / tube. 3. Method of mounting a wick with heating element attached that can sit above the fluid level. See sketch in previous post. First photo, I cut three holes, each sized to fit the brass tubes and fan opening. This tin is thin and easy to poke holes in. I start by marking the opening locations with a marker, them I use a small sharp awl or pin to stare a hole. With hand tools ( power drill will easy shred the can, be careful) I enlarge the holes with small hand drills or reamer, found files, etc, I rotate the tools slowly in the opening and gradually enlarge it to size needed. Then I cut brass tubing to length with a small hand held hobby razor saw. Our in place, apply flux and solder. Once heated properly the solder flows easily.for the larger fan opening, I then used a dremel tool with sanding drum to make a nice round opening. The fan has corner openings for screw mount. Secure with some tiny sheet metal screws. Next I will build an enclosure around the fabpn edge to fit the round can. Might just use silicone caulk. Note, I did not open the can with a can opener, left the ends in place and poured the content out thru the holes made, Yes, it's a bit messy and wasted the sauce, but it's a cheap way to get an tin enclosure. More to come. Please give me feedback, am I being clear enough? Thanks, Cheers, Joe
In the previous post in the video, note that a black rubber stopper is inserted into a brass tube soldered to the tin container. Starting with the element again, select proper length of heater wire by applying voltage to lengths as show previous. Crimped wire to one end. Next photo shows a rubber stopper, I use my drill press to drill to straight holes to allow the voltage supply wire to pass through it. Then I put together a wick with a brass rod (1/16") to provide support and to secure it to the stopper. Brass rod with wick is pushed thru the stopper, drill a pilot hole for the brass rod centered in the stopper. See photos, the supply wires will come thru the stopper at each side of the wick. Put one wire through the stopper, then I wrapped the heating element around the wick. This is tricky and took several attempts to get it done cleanly. The supply wire for the end is then fed back through the stopper. This is a weak part of the design as it must run back to the stopper without touching the heater element. It does work, but I will try to improve on this. This entire assembly fits into the tin can and is the correct length to just submerge the bottom portion of the wick and not the wires. I forgot to do a sketch showing a section through this, but will try tomorrow. Joe
Doug, That's a very impressive list of ships! I was just thinking yesterday about how to build a smoker without a fan, your chimney effect caught my attention. My experimental builds so far push the smoke out quickly, I would prefer it puffing out. Deleting the fan and adding the proper length of stack could work, I will try. Your electronics are impressive, nice skills you have. I'm still working with vacuum tubes, valves. Regards, Joe