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>> Home > Tags > rx

rx
rx
Voltage step down by Novagsi0 Commander   Posted: 5 days ago
Just a thought- The component shop does do a voltage reducer rated at 6 Amps power draw, and will drop from DC (10.5-40v to 1-9v) I thought about using one of these to run a 6v volt Marx Hectoperm motor from a 12v source, to save buying a new battery. As long as your motor speed controller setup doesn't draw more than say 4~4.5 Amps. I'm my case the tug had 4 x 6Ahr 6v batteries wired in parallel giving 16Ahr and 2-1/2 hours running time @full speed. These batteries have since all died due to age. I wanted to use just 1 x 20Ahr 12v battery instead and keep the added ballast I need anyway. This 6 amp unit is on the limit in my application. P.S i'm tight with money and I acquired the battery free from an alarm battery swap.

Electronics Down Below (5) by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Great stuff Neil Good progress👍 You have come to some very similar conclusions as I have with my Southampton conversion! have just ordered NiMH drive and RX batteries as I realised that the P94 is not Lipo safe and has no BEC. So the BEC you mention for 'less critical items' would have to be an external SBEC or UBEC! Something else to find a corner for! Also I've long since junked my ancient NiMH drive packs anyway. I've also been considering changing the rudder servo, but not because I'm fiddling with the rudders, there's no point in wasting time with that as they will be motor assisted anyway. 😉 I simply have some smaller, but still powerful, ones to give more room for the battery. I was about to tell you to remove the heatsinks from the P94 when I read further down! I thought when I ordered them that 10 quid or so for a couple of chunks of alu ain't worth it when I've got sheets of it on the shelf😉 I also concluded that the only place for a decent drive battery is between the shafts; a) ya gotta be able to get it out for charging / exchange, b) I wanted to keep the extra weight nearer midships. Keep up the good work, cheers Doug 😎

Orange rx by Skydive130 Admiral   Posted: 10 days ago
I have used these for several years in aircraft on my DX8 and they rock fine.

Billing Boats - Junior Progress- J502 by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Yes you can. It's small so not much room to get access and the rigging needs to be removeable. I have one that I converted almost 20 years ago and it sailed OK. Should be easier to fit out now as the rc gear, ESC and batteries are available in much smaller formats. Should fit well in your small pond, I don't really have anywhere safe to sail mine, hence the disrepaiur. I am attaching some photos of its present condition. Needs some restoration but hopefully shows what is possible. I used a small maxxon motor and a large brass prop over scale but it worked. The acess is via the removable cabin and the battery fits in a tray towards the front. The rx and esc fitted above the rudder servo. Have fun and please share your build.

Orange rx by rmwall107 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 11 days ago
Hi i have tried one it also seems ok, good range no issues. Remember black down signal up

Twin motor control problem by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Hi John, earlier you wrote "Sometimes I have control of the speed on other occasions it has gone to full speed reverse and I have no control." Full reverse and non control is the classic case of aircraft Failsafe - Throttle full back!!!! You need to reset your TX to Throttle OFF for failsafe, and then look very closely at where your antenna is mounted. The RX should / may have two antenna wires these must be arranged at 90° to each other and one vertical, one horizontal. Cheers Doug 😎

Twin Motor Perkassa by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
I attach some pics of my 34" Perkassa. It uses two large water cooled brushed motors (650?). Two Mtronic 25amp ESCs with one red wire disconnected. You can see the ESCs on off switches over the former in the next to last pic. Presently has a Planet Tx/rx and I use 9.6v or 8.4v NiMhs of 3 to 5 amps. Not fused (naughty). The battery sits between the prop shafts towards the stern in a tray. I control the motors on the left and right sticks with the rudder on the right horiz stick. The left stick has a ratchet so I set the speed with that and use the right sticks to keep straight and steer. As an ex flyer this is an easy set up for me. Run time is about 10/15 mins but that's long enough for me and the other models on the lake!

RSS P71 Sovereignty by cormorant Admiral   Posted: 14 days ago
I like the microswitch idea. If I have enough channels I usually use a Rx operated switch https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-receiver-controlled-swit...

Motor problem by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
the good news is, (I should have mentioned this earlier), the contributors here are generally experienced, and have done it themselves, so rest assured everything you get is proven, you just need to pick out what is best for you. Some other forums are not as lucky, as you get a lot of "do this, try this", you go out spending the dosh, and the "advisor" when challenged has not actually done it himself, its just a load of crap.😡 really annoys me that this happens, and sometimes people on model shops can be just as bad. A mate of mine took his sons "toy" boat to a local model shop last year. His son had outgrown it, my mate wanted to paint it, make it his own, and ditch the "toys r us" running gear. I didn't know he had done this, when I saw what had been done, the money charged, we marched back to the shop, I gave the "expert" the crap back, and got a refund. 2nd hand 27mg 2 channel rx with the aerial chopped to 6 inches, a 4x1.5 aa battery holder for main propulsion, and a really tired 2 channel acoms 27mg tx £75😡 I found out when he asked me why the lights don't work from the tx like my boats, he had asked for this, 2 channel set, hmm.... later that month, with a 7.2v nims and a dx6 with now 6 channels, less than £50, experts eh! I know there are good, but this shop or at least the guy working there wasn't one of them

Twin motor control problem by John Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Hi Dave and Paul, as the two current esc’s are new under warranty and came fitted with Tamiya connectors. I am reluctant to cut the wires for now hence the connectors. The switches are one from each ESC one of which has the red wire cut. The range test was fine so the tx and rx are fine. The rx goes at the front under the deck far away from everything and above the waterline when it sinks in full reverse. The wires were out so you could see how everything is connected. If this does not work I can try two batteries next.

Twin motor control problem by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Hi John Thanks for the pics. I see you are using Tamiya connectors. My experience is that they are unreliable and not suitable for currents above about 5amps. You appear to have the battery wired to both ESCs though one socket. As your problem occurs when both ESCs are connected I suspect the connectors are the culprits as they work then fail fairly quickly. Easily checked by using two separate batteries. If this is the problem I would hard wire the two ESCs to a chocolate screw block with just one socket for the battery. You might also want to consider a fuse in the positive wire to the battery. There are two switches, what are they switching and what type of switch? I can see the Y lead has one red wire taped up so assume power is from one of the ESCs? Where do you put the rx when the top is on? Hope you manage to move forward tomorrow. Dave

Twin motor control problem by Berty Seaman   Posted: 17 days ago
Hi John.. Been following this for some time....have you considered that the motors are not going into reverse ! ..but that the prop. wash is pushing against the underside of the hull ....thus giving a reverse thrust similar to that used on a jet engine ....this would only show at increased revs A rx going into fail safe would not cause this problem neither would not removing a red lead on an esc....I have flown planes with 2....4....and 6 esc,s and never cut a red wire off the esc. Can't wait to learn the reason in due course Berty

Twin motor control problem by John Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
I will take some pictures when I go on Wednesday. The connections are all good. The problem is present either when the boat is first put into the water or shortly within seconds after. The battery is a 3cell Lipo always fully charged before use. I have used a bec and without a bec. Esc's are Mtroniks tio marine 30. I have tried several tx and rx it is currently a Planet!

Twin motor control problem by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
Hi John, can you please define 'sometimes' more precisely ? For example; At the beginning of a run yes? -> After some minutes running no? Or right from the start sometimes yes, sometimes not? Under what circumstances do you have no control? What is the current setup? TX and RX make & model? Motors? ESCs, still Vipers, TIO version? BEC or not? Power source? Charge status? Re Dave's comment: can only highly recommend the exclusive use of gold connectors only (regardless of type) between ESC and motor. And on the battery as well.

Twin motor control problem by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
This is sounding more and more like interference and low voltage. Can you post a few pics of your setup, showing all the wiring, motors, ESCs, Rx and battery. Are you using Tamiya connectors by any chance? Also are all your connections good - no green verdigris on any?