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>> Home > Tags > rx

rx
rx
upgrading Turnigy i6 to 10 channels by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
I suspect you may have to rebind the tx and Rx after the upgrade. If the monitor screen on the tx is not showing any movement when an assigned switch etc is operated then there is a fault with the tx. My set does show movement for an assigned switch so it could be the upgrade didn't complete successfully. It's possible that a reinstall will correct but you need help from someone with a Turnigy set as I believe they have modified the FlSky code for their own sets. Good luck and please keep us posted with your progress

upgrading Turnigy i6 to 10 channels by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Hi Chris. It looks like you have already posted an enquiry on the github site for 'benb0jangles' attention, let's hope you get a response to that. Meanwhile here's a YouTube video that shows a successful upgrade working with the ten channel receiver that I have bought so it does appear to work ok. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=I8ilTsO74lg Have you tried re-binding the tx to the new rx again after the update? Rob.

rising damp by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
Glad to hear the rx is working. All lake water contains salts and when an electrical circuit board gets wet the salts deposit on the tracks. Whilst drying often restores the Rx to a working state it may not be 100% due to residue as kmbc says above. I open the case and use Iso Propyl Alcohol and a stiff paint brush to clean any boards that have been exposed. This ensures the board is clean and reduces the chance of further failure. Another problem that might develop is the black wire syndrome so dismantling allows you to check the connection. I use WD 40 on the plug to drive out any water.

Marblehead Sailboat upgraded by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
Hope your mind wasn't finished off Ron 😉 km's solution is not very scale though is it?? In essence Dave_M is correct that the toggle switches I depicted are not completely sealed. But the ball pivot of the toggle is nowhere near so open and vunerable as the long slot in a slide switch🤔 Sure there are fully sealed versions but be prepared to dig deeper in your pocket for them (watch out for the moths 😉😉) Attached pics show toggle switches hidden under a hatch on the main deck of my destroyer. Hmm, must redo the legends!! A drop of WD40 or machine oil now and again keeps the moisture out and they have done sterling work for 20 odd years now. Further advantages are that the contacts and wiper are self cleaning and can handle more current than a slide switch. 😉 Switches and monitoring /test sockets are mounted on an alu bracket fixed just under the main deck. Cheers Doug 😎 PS: on my subs I use a standard slide switch for the RX, cos its mounted in a (hopefully😲) sealed pressure hull anyway 😊 Whatever, have fun. Cheers Doug 😎

Marblehead Sailboat upgraded by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
Final comment on the switch!! I mentioned above that I prefer to use miniature toggle switches, here is a typical example, good for 3A some versions 5A, plenty enough for the RX and a few servos, and only 12.5 x 7 x 9.5mm, mounting hole 6.6mm. Cost approx 1Euro over here. Available in any good component shop. For the main power I use larger versions often with built in LED indicator, as can be seen in the attached pic of my new Sea Scout installation. Cheers Doug 😎

Decks removed by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
Hi deep..., Don't know about 'used' looks more like THROWN IN' 😡 from across the room! Good luck, just don't hit the chisel too hard!! Try with a not too blunt chisel to get the bevelled edge under the rim of the c**p. Re: time to work... The fish cutter is well down the to-do list 😉 Although I have managed to clean up and modify my old Taycol Target field motor (removed from the Sea Scout) to run both forward and backward off a normal brushed ESC which will now go in the cutter 😊 My Sea Scout renovation is top of the list. She's now fitted with a new RX, shaft/prop and brushless and ready for sea trials, when the local lake melts 🤔 Then just cosmetics, mostly in the cockpit and after deck area. After that fit decent brass props and electronics to my HMS Belfast. After that .... we'll see 😉 PT109 needs a respray and electronics ... Graf Spee needs a new prop shaft stbd side ... Catalina needs electronics fitting ... Southampton tug needs putting back together ... 🤔 As a single pensioner finding time is easier that it was a year ago. The GF has her own abode ca 2 miles away 😉😉 Happy chiselling, Doug 😎 PS suspect the biggest mess from the cutter will be removing what looks like layers of ancient oil based paint 😡 Will wait for the summer to do that outside.

M Sonic microprocessor ESC. by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
I have just seen an Msonic advertised on Ebay. Its a tempo11 version and designed for model cars. It is an early Mtronik and possibly has a max voltage of 7.2 to 8.4 volts and probably 10 amps (my guess). As its maybe for a car the reverse may just be a brake. If you plug it into a 7.2 battery or less, connect a motor and plug the ESC into a rx you should be able to test. Check that the rx plug is wired neg (black) pos (red) signal (white) incase it was being used with a differently wired rx ie the red then black then white. If so you will need to swop over the red and black wires. The small button is used to set up the ESC once you get it going.

RC Catalina flying boat by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
its this https://hobbyking.com/en_us/orange style='background-color:yellow;'>rx-rx3s-3-axis-flight-stabilizer-w-dsm2-compatible-6ch-2-4ghz-receiver.html?___store=en_us it replaces the reciver, as this is one. you turn your rates off on the tx, I set all the values on the receiver in the middle, and hey presto, it allows you to fly in "slightly" stronger winds. When you hold the plane in your hand, and turn it, as though in wind, the control surfaces move to compensate, quite clever really, like a gyro in an rc heli controlling and holding the tail👍

fireboat or similar by DimReaper Seaman   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Paul I may be able to help you out on this one i have a very large Aerokits crash tender that i purchased last year with the intention of restoring, unfortunately other projects took priority and it seems i won't be getting round to this one for quite some time. I have a sum of money invested in her so really sorry i can't do for free but a nominal fee of £50 will see some investment returned, i will also supply a TX/RX and original motor if your interested? Far to big to post so will need to be collected, if memory serves me correctly she is approx 40"+ in length and approx 8"width, i am away over the weekend but will be able to confirm and send pictures sun/mon if you are interested? Regards Steve

RC Catalina flying boat by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Following on from previous posts in the fireboat and sunderland thread.... Ok Doug, like I said nice model for the bucks, I much prefer the grey scheme to my blue/yellow, but mine was a deal so went with it, its my second. The cat has a tendancy to tip stall at lower speeds, and will not recover, there are things you can do, these are the main ones, read that link on rc groups👍 If water flying, the floats are too low, they need raising as much as you can, prob an inch, and angling upwards, or they snag on the water. If your tx allows it, dial in rudder and aileron mix, it stops the tail dropping in turns, looks better, and helps prevent the tip stall get cog correct with battery placement, pretty easy to do do range check when rx is installed, the position you will have it (not much room in the fuse) can be blinded by the battery. I have a cheap orange stabilizer one in mine, it really really helps! both ailerons need a few mills upward attitude, this helps with the tip stalling, and landing, its something to do with creating washout, too technical for me😋 the lights you see on mine are hobbyking light set, apparently the v2 you have has better lights with a plug, detrium dont usually have these there is a design fault, the rear stabiliser has a small twist, some fix this, I didnt bother I could go on, but the link is a good read as it helps with hints how to fly now you need somewhere to fly it, its fine off grass sand and water, oh, check for waterleaks prior to flying, the step under the fuse is a weak spot, change the cheap metal pushrods for nylon or plastic when you can, they rust real easy, there are easy mods to stop the rods flexing, particularly on the elevator, I fitted a second rod so I have one either side of the elevator, and dial in rates, you dont need much throw with this big lazy bird👍

Fireboat and Sunderland together again by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
yes its me! Dynam Catalina with 2200mah 3 cell lipo, gets about 8 to 10 mins flight time, here with the tide out and me trying my best to land on a puddle! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jxefbO2ucow&t=1s available in a lot of rc model (plane) shops, and more so online, motors esc etc all preinstalled, you just need to add rx and batt and fly (after some essential easy mods!) https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1455058-Dynam...

MV TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Before the funnel could be installed wanted to fit a working radar scanner, navigation lights and the batteries. Decided to use sub C NIMH batteries in plastic holders, they should have the target endurance and provide some ballast. Fitted two sets of 4 cells, one at the forward end of the superstructure and the other at the rear, both at keel level. These were inserted into wooden battery trays to hold them in place. A dry test run showed a full speed motor run time well exceeding the hour target, so will try on water. Also took the opportunity to fit the Rx and then adjust the rudder before finishing off the wiring. Both the navigation lights (LEDs) and the radar scanner work. The radar is driven by a servo with the potentiometer removed and a magnetic drive shaft run up through the superstructure from below the deck. The motor requires about 9 volts to run at what would seem to be something approximating to scale speed; fitted a voltage reducer to allow the lights and the radar to work on less than 6 volts. The mast lights are to be installed in a separate circuit after the masts are added. As I get more into the detail it is evident the GA drawing and the photographs of the vessel in service differ. Fortunately the component locations seem consistent, although the equipment is not. This most apparent in the hold ventilators. The GA shows the standard cowl vents, but the photographs show a mixture between an vertically squeezed oval vent (which am advised is more typically German) and ventilator columns with cylindrical caps. The column style vents with cylindrical caps were easily made from two different sizes of styrene tube with the cap tops made from styrene offcuts. The squeezed oval style vents were more difficult. Broke them down into the major parts of the cylindrical vertical tube and, from a larger tube cut a small ring and filed one end to straddle the tube once it had been squeezed oval. Glued it into place whilst restrained in a small hand vice. Once set, removed and sanded the the two to give a smooth transition, closing the rear aperture off with styrene offcuts. Then resorted to wood filler, filed down to give a smooth, oval vent.

Seuthe Smoke Generator by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Ballast The unit needs to be mounted vertically inside or under the smoke stack, with access to allow you to top up the smoke fluid into the unit. Current draw is about 2-3 amps so you will either need a relay/microswitch driven by a servo or electronic switch capable of switching 3 amps to switch it on or off. You will need a spare channel on your Rx to operate, preferably one controlled by a switch on the tx. You can use the main battery but it will reduce your running time because of the high current. You will need a 6v unit if you wish to use your existing battery.

Brushless motors by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Spitfire, Sorry NO! This is because the ESC needs feedback from the motor providing info on the position of the rotor and thus provide the correct phasing; either via a shaft position sensing system or by the back emf of the coils in the more common 'sensor-less' types for models. It can’t do this simultaneously for two motors I'm afraid. You'd confuse the poor thing and give it the 'collywobbles' 😉 You can drive two BL ESCs from one channel using a 'Y' lead or use two channels for independent motor control like in 'Tank Steering'. Cheers Doug 😎 PS If you do drive two BL ESCs from one channel you MUST disconnect the Red supply lead (BEC) from one of the ESC leads to prevent damage. If you use a separate RX supply battery you MUST disconnect both Red leads from the ESCs to disconnect their BECs.

Steam sound unit (variable speed) by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Eric, I've looked at the Action engine sound modules again and they are not restricted to any make of ESC. They take their control signal directly from the RX ESC channel and have a socket on board to connect the ESC, whoever's it is 👍😉 The sound is however synthesised to enable this. Dave's Action Noisy Thing is obviously the better choice than the Micro modules bur of course more elaborate and thus more expensive. Seems to be very similar to what I found here in Germany. Cheers Doug 😎