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>> Home > Tags > rx

Futaba Attack 2ER by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
May be cheapish in the UK but Hughie is in Australia. It's possibly a Xtal problem but may not be so. Hopefully a local source will be able to test the Tx/rx with crystals at no cost.

Futaba Attack 2ER by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Hi Hughie It's possible then that the problem was pre the aerial cutting. Sorry if I was teaching you to suck eggs but it is easier to suggest ways forward if all the basics have been covered. If the set was working some time in the past then I would check the crystals. If you can move any of the pins chances are it is broken. Over time crystals can deteriorate for no apparent reason as the internal crystal is encased in a glass vacuum and uses very fine wires for connectors. I appreciate you wish to keep the existing set but if you do have to buy crystals it may be worth considering a 2.4 combo set (Tx/Rx no servos) as the cost may not be much different and will work with your servos. Cheers Dave

12 volt motors to esc,s by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Hi Doug Know it well and used to build my own from a published circuit using now discontinued chip. Misleading for a dual set up possibly. If there is no switch provided the two switch wires can confuse some, like my friend. His wouldn't work with the BEC disconnected. It was a dual set up connected to an Action mixer. Has to use a separate rx battery to set up the rx before the ESC. It's 2.4 and takes longer than the ESC so doesn't provide the correct mid point for the ESC to find. By switching rx on first all is OK. Both ESCs have the red lead disconnected so are dead as are the motors until the switch is thrown. There is built in suppression in the BEC circuit which is not enabled in one ESC with your set up. On switch on the motor runs for half a second and I assume takes a big chunk of current. Using the switch gives better control and allows for each motor to switch on one at a time. If one set of wires are shorted and both ESCs wired thro a Y lead both motors will arm at the same time and might produce some unpredictable results. I agree its good to see Sonar is up and running and happy. Dave

12 volt motors to esc,s by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Doug I do believe the FR15 uses the BEC to provide a 4.2v supply to the PIC chip. If you don't switch on the ESC it won't work. Just seen Sonars post so seems all is OK Dave

12 volt motors to esc,s by sonar Admiral   Posted: 9 days ago
O.K Seems I still have something missing the rx is a 6 channel but now only the servo and the throttle goes into it am I missing something else ?

12 volt motors to esc,s by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Hi Steve, As your ESCs have an ON/OFF switch for the BEC (orange and red twisted wires) leave one of them SWITCHED OFF! Unless you want to use a separate RX batt. In that case switch 'em BOTH OFF! To drive both ESCs from one RX port: plug the ESCs into the sockets of the Y cable and the plug end into your usual throttle output channel of the RX. Don't forget to reverse the power leads on one motor, or the FUSES! Doug 😎

Wiring in a rx, an ESC and a battery (pack) by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Hi Nick, (Sorry - more questions!!) Do you get the same noise in both forward and reverse? Try a drop of light machine oil on the motor bearings. Which motor is it? Then move back along the shaft input and output. Is there any slack in the coupling joint? If so a spot of grease helps quieten it at least, if nowt else Vaseline will do. Cheers Doug 😎

Wiring in a rx, an ESC and a battery (pack) by NickW Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 11 days ago
Hi Doug It's a tinny type noise, no vibrations or anything I can see/feel.... I'm using the Tamco Tx and Rx along with an Mtroniks Viper 20 ESC....once it's all switched on the green rx light is on and the red/green light is on on the ESC....the Tx is also switched on and all is quiet...once the throttle moves the sound starts...possibly the motor, could be a normal sound one should expect....the coupling appears ok

Wiring in a rx, an ESC and a battery (pack) by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
PS or should we call you 'Dr Faust' ?? 😎

Wiring in a rx, an ESC and a battery (pack) by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Hearty Congrats 👍 What sort of noise? Can you feel any vibrations from the motor and/or coupling - prop shaft? Carefully test motor / shaft with your finger tips!! Dry bearing somewhere perhaps? cheers Doug 😎

Wiring in a rx, an ESC and a battery (pack) by NickW Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 11 days ago
But my Saturday will now consist of me sailing my new baby and not writing reams of words, trawling through mathematical material on the tinterweb, annoying the kind gentlemen on here, annoying anyone else I can think of and telling my sister how rubbish I am at electronics....which I do on a daily basis....she has now made a note for my headstone 'Here lies Nick, was really thick, lost his head, coz he wired the RED' Really cannot wait for Saturday!!!!

Wiring in a rx, an ESC and a battery (pack) by NickW Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 11 days ago
Haverlock Thanks for the guidance....I seem to have got there without creating smoke and I still have all my fingers so successfully missed the prop!!!! Everything appears to be working other than a noise coming from the ESC or somewhere else that I can't fathom. Switch on and all lights are working (ESC & rx) move throttle control and screw turns in right direction but the noise is a tad worrying/annoying....think it might be a trip to the Army/Navy stores for some ear-muffs :-)

Wiring in a rx, an ESC and a battery (pack) by Haverlock Admiral   Posted: 12 days ago
first take a deep breath and calm down its not rocket science. Question does your ESC have a battery eliminator ? if so take away the dry batteries to use in something else. Now your nicads connect to the POWER side of the esc. make sure you have the correct polarity. The servo plug from the ESC plugs into your receiver whichever is your throttle channel. If you have a modern set then you can put it on the wrong way round with no worries since positive is the centre post. The output of the ESC connect to your motor. If its a brushed motor no need to worry about polarity for now. With your ESC there should be some setup instructions if there are none ...... Usually its connect and switch on receiver then switch transmitter on with throttle full listen for beeps then go to low throttle. Switch receiver off. When you switch on in future make sure transmitter is switched on FIRST ok having gotten this far it only remains to check the direction of rotation of the motor. Take off the prop ( saves fingers) and put a piece of masking tale around end of prop shaft. Switch on transmitter switch on receiver and try the throttle. If the motor spins in correct direction fine if not Brushed motor swap the motor leads over Brushless motor swap any 2 of the 3 motor leads over. Job done have a cuppa then decide to sort out the rudder.

Wiring in a rx, an ESC and a battery (pack) by NickW Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 12 days ago
Ok boys and boys....Last week Dave M (Dave) and RNinMunich (Doug) very kindly puppy walked me through how NOT to wire up your boat, esp to prevent smoke appearing and burning out ESC's and Rx's. So now I have a 'new' boat, the Bristol pride & joy, my baby.....and I have a new Rx and a new ESC to fit. Only this time I don't want to make smoke (I can get a machine off eBay for that) I research on the net how to wire up? Is it special knowledge only Fleet Admirals and wizard's get to know? I so need to go sailing on Thursday I need help (i'v got an email ready for the devil and the promise of my soul if all else fails).....attached are photo's of the wiring etc and the battery pack's are I believe NiCad

Taycol Test 2 with reverse :-)) by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Glad you got it working. The secret is to change the polarity to just one set of coils otherwise you reverse both magnetic fields. The bridge rectifier achieves this. Current draw is as you say well within spec. Pic 5 says it all really. Those spikes are nearly full voltage and will defo be a problem for any ESC that doesn't have fast protection diodes. They are acting as spark transmitters and explain why early TV sets were so vulnerable to interference. Modern Rx are much more sensitive and ESC's will react to this high pulse, so it is not surprising they suffer from interference if no suppression is in place Hope you do an update when you have completed the wiring Dave