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>> Home > Tags > rx

rx
rx
advise required by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 minutes ago
I'll require advise soon as it's so long since I touched any R/X s. servos ,escs etc I've forgotten how things connect up. I don't want any magic smoke if you get me🤔 such as I bought some small J.S.T. connectors but are there adaptors to couple up to standard sizes? Are Sanwa rx's a different polarity to say Graupner

Sea Scout 'Jessica' Sea Trial - at last! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
You're Sooo right Ed👍 Especially if yours is the only 'show' on the water, like today. You meet some nice people 👍 Since I retired I can avoid the weekends and holidays when the Biergarten lake is overrun and overcrowded😊 Re: finding the time! You should see the state of my maisonette!! Or maybe not 😲 No wonder no woman lives with me for long 😉 Photos attached of possible next projects - What should I do next??? Answers on a postcard please to ..... 😁 1 The Danish fish cutter? Full restoration, 2 The ELCO PTB? Renovation, repaint and refit as PT-109, 3 Or maybe the cruiser HMS Belfast? Needs new props and RX and ESCs fitted. 4 KMS Graf Spee, needs new shafts, props, RX and ESCs. Help! 😲 it's all go folks! Happy boating all, cheers Doug 😎

Radio in a yacht by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Right chaps, firstly many thanks for your suggestions. I won't be doing LiPos, because the charging is too complicated for me. I can't read the instructions of my fancy charger so it remains in its box. I forgot that I can get NiMhs in sealed packs, so that'll be something I get hold of, although the shop had more out of stock than in! Secretary, I liked the look of that servo you linked me to and will be getting one. Norman, I have today picked up my Spektrum DX5e from my daughter's place where it was in store. I found it whilst looking for something else as always! I already have the Orange Rx and can now try binding it, when I have some batteries for both items. I also have 27meg gear, three different lots and WILL be using it in my classic speedboat models. I waste as little as possible! I have now settled on a continuous loop for the sail control, which doesn't need spring tension, though haven't decided a good way to attach the sheets to the loop or how to tell when the loop has gone as far as it dare before getting a bit mixed up. But I have sorted out the plank system by making one section trap a second, both of which can be removed separately. I found a gear and shaft out of an old printer which I chucked in the lathe and turned a groove in for the loop line. Then I found a use finally for that 6mm ball race I've had in my drill drawer for years! It was an interference fit on the shaft. I had some PTFE plate for another task and in some spare I made a hole that the ball race pushes into a treat, below it an identical plate supports the other end of the shaft, PTFE being very low friction. All this levels the return "pulley" with the servo drum. I only have a limited length of run for the loop line, but it should be enough. It's all I got anyway. About 10" between pulley and drum centres. If I attach the sheet part way down the boom instead of the end I should have enough movement. So, progress. My son-in-law supplied some bike gear cable for the rudder actuation as the rudder stock is at an extreme, typically cutter, angle. A hunt through the supplies (Pringles tins) gave up enough aluminium tube to guide the cable. Alas, I installed with lots of epoxy the rudder tube and it turns out to be 4.5mm bore! Gawd knows where that came from. The tube built into the back of the rudder itself is 4 mm. So that'll be some lathe work ahead. All good fun between the gardening chores. Cheers, Martin

Servo choice for yacht by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Me again. I am finding the choice of servos mind-numbingly huge. I feel I should have a new steering servo for Vanity. I have a lot of other servos kicking around and I can only assume they work on a modern Orange Rx, but I'm thinking even a tight wad like me can justify a new servo. I would like it to be a bit lower than the Futaba I currently have out as it has to operate below the bottom of the winch drum and take two Bowden cables to the rudder as the rudder shaft is steeply raked, so only cable operation will do. Any suggestion welcome. I don't need speed or even especially accuracy, although reliability would be nice. 4.8volts too please. Cheers, Martin

Radio in a yacht by stormin Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 9 days ago
Hi you guys, Your car creations sound fantastic Martin. Like most of us oldies on here I've used all the radio makes over the years, I used to fly on 27 before it went to 35, so how long ago was that?. The way forward now,especially with boats, and medium sized aircraft is to use the like of spectrum dx6i which even the old model holds up to 10 models (the new one holds 250 models😳). I have two transmitters one for boats and one for planes, I only have two because of the boats really need a throttle return spring on the left stick. Then,as Haverlock mentioned, just buy orange rx receivers @ £9 each for individual boats or models, although I do us a more expensive orange receiver for the planes, but they only work out to £20 / £30. Happy days. Norman.

Radio in a yacht by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Haverlock, my Orange receiver can run on anything from 3V to 9. something apparently. Just seen a good Aussie review of it and he loved it. Reckons there are thousands out there all working great, albeit on shorter ranges. It's DSM2 like my Spektrum TX, but I don't have a clue what that's all about, as long as the TX and Rx are the same, I presume. Norman, you sound like me. I have had loads of different models. Never finished an aircraft because of the cost of insurance and club membership, but I have had them whilst deciding and I built an R/C car before there were such things as kits for them, but couldn't afford a working engine. Mine ticked over smoothly or screamed its nuts off, but nought in between. But the car had suspension from a leaf spring aft to adjustable torsion bars for the front. The spine of the chassis was two strips of stair runner making a backbone from which all else hung. It went very well if I could find anywhere big enough for the screaming engine! But I came back to boats as being cheap and yachts as they don't need lots of lecktrickery, which I hate, although I have got some models of historic speedboats in which I want to fit equally historic motors of which I have a small collection. Truth is, like my slot cars, I prefer to restore than create these days, although I have made the masters for dozens of car body kits over the years and am currently finishing a 1/6th scale Vincent Black Shadow pattern all in brass. Great to know that a holder full of four AA rechargeables will do for the boat. Thanks for that info. Now to see if I can find that nice new box full of Tx! Oh dear, I've moved since I bought it. Cheers, Martin

Radio in a yacht by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Thanks, Norman and Haverlock. When I say pen cells, I mean rechargeable, I couldn't remember the daft modern description of their size (AA, is it?). Having said that I can't even remember the old description now. U16, was it? Anyway those little things that go in clocks and my DAB radio. I bought a load cheap from Lidl's and blow me if they ain't still going strong. If the rechargeables are 1.2 Volts, is there a holder for 5 cells to get 6 Volts? And whilst the Orange Rx can take it and the GWS winch works on 6 volts, what about A.N.Other servo for steering? Can that take 6 volts? Cheers, Martin

Radio in a yacht by stormin Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 9 days ago
Sorry Martin just read your post, I'm no expert however just to start the ball rolling with my little imput:- All orange receivers can run on anything between 3.7 to 9.6volts, The wire configuration is always:- top is signal, middle is positive and negative is bottom, if you look on one side of your receiver you will see a very small "s" embossed into plastic case denoting signal. Binding is dead easy, may I suggest take a look on YouTube under "binding orang rx" and all will be revealed (a picture paints a thousand words). Sorry I can't be of more help Martin however I'm sure we will receive more input soon👍 Norman.

Radio in a yacht by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Oh I forgot to mention that the servo plugs have little tongues on them for, presumably, polarity safety, but the Orange Rx doesn't allow for these, so which way up should the plug go if I clip off the tongues? Cheers,. Martin

Radio in a yacht by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Hi all, Whilst I can make almost anything, I have absolutely no idea how to install modern R/C gear in a model, much less a yacht. I have an Orange Rx which has 6 channels for some reason, but I only need 2. BTW, when did functions become channels? I grew up with proportional being 2 channels per function. Anyway, that's a 2.4 doodah. I have a GWS sail winch a drum jobbie. I also have a few different servos for the rudder, but I don't know what voltage they are. I will stuff 4 pen cells in a holder and therefore get 4.8 volts, is that right? This will all fit a treat on a removable piece of ply which I can secure with a slider at one end and a wingnut at tother. Said ply with all gear will slide through the main companionway with that item removed. So, how do I know which servos will work for steering? Will they work with a 2.4 Gg set? Or must I buy new? Will the Rx be OK sited near the battery pack and servos? And how the hell does one "bind" the Tx to the Rx? I've had the Tx for 3 years and it ain't yet out of its box. It's a Spektrum Dx5e. I'm using NiMhs in the battery pack as I don't understand LiPos and will only be using the yacht occasionally. And I can charge NiMhs with a wall charger. I have fancy metallic blue thing that does everything, but the Chenglish instructions defeated me, so it hasn't been out of its box either. (Get the impression I ain't big on working models, folks?) Any info/instructions/encouragement gratefully recieved. And anything helpful about rigging the damned thing under the deck is welcome too! No idea where to start there. I have very limited space through companionways and deck lights which are all removable, but smallish, if evenly spaced. Cheers, Martin

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Rowen, snag with the ESCs is that bY connecting all 3 red leads to the the RX you are shorting the outputs of all the Battery Eliminator circuits together. If they are not protected by fast diodes you may do serious damage to the ESCs 😡 The RX only needs one supply anyway. If you are going to use a separate RX battery then DEFINITELY disconnect all 3 ESC red leads! Cheers Doug 😎

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Neat installation 👍👍 Don't forget to disconnect two of the red supply leads from the RX if the ESCs have BEC !!! 😲 Cheers Doug 😎

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Once the rudder, propeller and shafts were installed, the position of the motors could be established. A light aluminium bracket to hold all three was fabricated and bonded to the hull. Due to the high speed capability of the brushless motors, particular attention was paid to alignment. Also kept to the shortest prop. shafts that could be fitted to avoid whipping. Although the motor type might change, whatever is best will require a sound electrical installation as the current requirements for each brushless motor could reach 50 Amps. Wired each motor and ESC separately with its own dedicated fuse to give the maximum system protection. There is an extra fuse section allocated for auxiliary circuits, such as a cooling water pump and lights. Will try the original planned layout of 3 x 2835 motors with 30mm propellers and a 2S Li-Po battery first. Am hoping the reduced voltage will also make these motors more tractable. For the test program the three ESCs will be each controlled from an individual Rx channel. Once the final layout is determined, a more sophisticated and flexible control system can be installed. To minimize ballast, particularly around the stern, the battery will be housed as far into the bow as possible. After the test runs the final battery type, size and location can be established. To assess performance, hope to try both 2 and 3S Li-Po batteries. Planning to reduce heat build up by fitting cooling water jackets to the motors, these are easiest to instal at this stage so the wiring or mounts are not disturbed in the future. Have not decided the layout for the water circuit yet, but this easily can be added later. All that is needed now is the ice to melt off our local lakes so tests can commence.

After Deck / Hatch - If at first you don't succeed ... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
give up and go home! Oh! I am home 😁 Since I need access to the rudder the after deck has to be made as a removable hatch. Would you believe at the last refit (25 years ago) I actually managed to shoehorn the RX and RX NiMH battery in there as well!? Pic 1 shows what it looked like when I started this refit, after 20 odd years in the cellar 😲 Anyway, I wanted the deck to be mahogany to match the cabin roof and as a hatch it was obvious that it would need a subframe. Pic 2 to 5, had to open a new bag of chomp chomp clamps 😉 Trial fit Pic 6. SFSG! Under side was sealed with two coats of EzeKote and fixings added; neodymium magnets at the forward edge, domed captive nyloc nuts glued into the under frame at the aft edge. Pics 7 & 8. These will then accept 4mm studs screwed into Riva style fuel filler caps to hold it down and (hopefully) keep it watertight. Mahog was then finished in the same laborious and patience testing process described above (or is it below😲) for the cabin roof and decks. Pic 9 shows it screwed down with normal 4mm 'Camembert' head screws - Why? see below 😆 Finish was OK.. BUT After leaving screwed down overnight a hairline crack had developed 😡 Pic 10. Also, I didn't like the 3mm fillets between the hatch deck and the main deck, and was wondering what to do about the lip on the bulkhead at the rear of the cockpit. There was a chunk cut out in the middle. This was where in the old days we had a tiller bar to set the rudder for Free Running on a great circle (Radnor Park Lake in Folkestone - side note for Graham P74, probably before he was born😉) Sooo .... machined the lip away, removed the 3mm fillets, made a cardboard template for the new deck-piece and tomorrow is another day. Wonder what I can muck up then !!?? 😊 G'night all, ciao Doug 😎 Oh yes the Filler caps - drilled them on the lathe for 4mm thread clearance, dug out the tap set, selected 4mm 0.7mm pitch ..... Oh S..t, only a tapered tap which starts cutting at 5mm. Hole in the cap is only 5mm deep.😡 Immediately ordered 4mm parallel machine tap, should be here on Wednesday. No sweat, should have deck hatch Mk. 2 finished by then 😎

Esc’s, rudder servo etc by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
A few more little odds n ends done today. Rudder servo box and servo installed, all pushrods fitted and centred. ESC's have been installed along side the motors, hooked up to Rx and rotating the right way. I soldered up a Y-Lead with XT60 connectors to connect both ESC's to one LiPo, red wire removed on 1 ESC as would be done with twin aircraft setup. Just the battery tray to make and install and configure a Mtroniks W-Tail unit so that motors and rudders are sinc when turn inputs made. Last job of the day was to fit the numbering on the rear cabin that came via eBay in da post today.