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>> Home > Tags > rx

Skimmer from Mobile Marine by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Hi Chris Mine just has a large flat ply plate over the bottom of the hull with the rx rudder servo and battery fixed in place. I use velcro for the rx and made mounting blocks for the servo. An aircraft snake connects to the rudder. The battery is in a small wooden compartment. My ESC is just below the motor mount hanging loose. You do need to strengthen the motor mount - I used lots of wood inside to make it all less pliable - the plastic is not strong enough on its own. You need to build a plinth to attach the motor high enough to attach your prop. This need to be well braced to take the thrust from the prop. Mine moves slightly and if I were to make another I would make it stronger. Mine required two small sheets of lead up front to keep it on the water at speed. Please post details of your build Dave

Aeronaut Pilot by Skipper44 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 10 days ago
Just put out a little running video, back home now so tile to crack on! Enjoy :) T

Sea Queen refurbishment by colinhubbard Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Thanks for your feedback, I'm not trying to do a major rebuild just get the old Queen looking as good as possible, I think if it holds together after degreasing I'll paint the interior with epoxy resin to stabilize it. Then paint with hamerite smooth white to make it easier to keep clean. As for a motor I have a decoperm 6volt with gear box, or a Johnson 600 to choose from at present fitted with a 3 bladed 30mm brass prop. Also have the original 2 channel 27Mhz RX and tx. But not sure what to fit by way of speed control, I have an old variable sweep rheostat that works well. Wish I could upload pics it might help. Have a choice of 6volt SLA or 7.2volt nicads. I would like to keep to keep it as near to how dad could have used it in the late 50s early 60s. This project is more for family than me actually using it, just family history to pass on to my grandson. Thanks Colin

Servos & motor having a wobbly by EricMB Lieutenant   Posted: 14 days ago
Hi Doug and Dave, very sorry for the radio silence, day job getting in the way! Really appreciate the input, interesting to hear about your experience with the progress of technology, I guess in using digital RX and TX setups there are different issues that arise! So, to your kind advice - I unplugged the servo Dave, and no difference, which made me think it was the motor. I disconnected the ESC (and hence the power), added a battery input to the RX and all was ok! That made me realise that the power section was the problem, confirmed by a suggestion a fellow model Boater made about checking the battery - instead of chucking out 7.2v, it was giving about 5.3v! Recharged and hey presto - problem solved! Flat battery giving out interference!! Here's the system now behaving as it it should; Thanks again for all the help and advice - very much appreciated. Regards, Eric

Servos & motor having a wobbly by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Hi Dave, I guess you're right! I obviously have more catching up to do than I thought 🤔 Re your question - if you mean my sub it has no interference problem; RX is in the bow, motors and suppression boards in the stern as in my pics. Two big 4AH 'lumps of lead' in between! I simply wondered if Eric's problem was due to interference from a cheap motor in the outboard. I have taken a couple of these apart (from inflatable boats) and the motors are pretty basic with little or no suppression. But if he's using a hi freq. ESC then chokes are probably not the solution. I that case I might go back to a simpler ESC myself! Cheers Doug 😎

Servos & motor having a wobbly by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
Hi Dave, interesting thought with the pulses! 🤔 My sub is working fine with a 40MHz RX Pico receiver and Graupner Micro Speed 10 ESC. Could test it with my Viper Marine 10 I suppose!? Otherwise Eric may have to go back to a 'simpler' ESC if he can't suppress the outboard at source. Current capacity depends of course on the wire gauge used for the choke. The ones shown in my sub were designed to handle at least 15A as far as I can remember! Eric's outboard can't be that thirsty. Cheers Doug 😎

Gadgets and Gizmos by Midlife306 Captain   Posted: 16 days ago
Hi Nick, As basic as this sounds I got a switch that you plug into a channel on the rx to control lights or just about anything remotely. I've also got a sound module with 2 speakers from eBay that you load the sound onto a microSD card which I find amusing, this also plugs into a rx channel. Animatronics is new to me, I'm learning slowly, my 1/4 scale Donald Campbell should scare a few people. I'm also dabbling with 3D printed linear actuators at the moment, I'm up to 130mm of travel from a normal servo. Ohhh the entertainment 🤗 Cheers Wayne

Gadgets and Gizmos by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
Hi Nick, all sorts of goodies! But let's walk before we try to run 😉 One thing I would recommend is a Wattmeter for testing your motor / battery combinations so you know what current the motor will draw. Re RX Battery: PLEASE do not forget to disconnect the red lead in the ESC plug for the RX otherwise you get a clash between the RX battery and the BEC circuit of the speed controller! Cheers Doug 😎

Gadgets and Gizmos by NickW Lieutenant   Posted: 16 days ago
Until recently I wasn't aware of using a Rx battery pack, I now have one, what other gadgets and gizmos is it worth obtaining to help with the hobby?

Working radar by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Hi Julian Only 8pm when I posted so not that late. May be small enough but is there a splined drive output underneath that top casing? You may need to add a short extension to the output. Could just be a bad pic as other sellers (Rapid) show similar with a spline above the top casing. I attach a pic of a similar type to the one I used. This is one that burned out in my yacht. Metal gears so kept the case for spares. The motor melted! 23mm long 10mm wide 25mm deep from base to bottom of spline. 18mm if you remove the bottom casing. Regarding suitability: are you intending to run the motor direct from a battery? The motor is very small and you will need to keep the voltage and current low (2v) to avoid overheating. The pulse internal driver will take care of this but without the electronics the motor needs protection. Using the pulse system from the Rx will require three wires and a spare channel on the tx/rx. Hope you can find a suitable servo Cheers dave

The electrics, drive & radio by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
The switch panel and wiring loom was made, tested and dry fitted a while ago and so it only needs securing to the bulkhead with four fixing screws, the two NiMh batteries were strapped down to the bearers with cable ties as close to the chines as possible and the XT60 connectors mated. I have read that placing the heavy batteries as far away from the keel as possible improves the handling, all other heavy items are centered along the keel for symmetry and should help the boat to sit evenly in the water. I’m not sure if I will need to do any ballasting, hopefully the maiden voyages should give me an indication. The prop shaft was greased and fitted, and with the prop, thrust washers and lock nuts in place, the clearance was adjusted and locked with some Loctite so the motor could then be installed. The initial motor alignment was made with a solid coupler which was then replaced with the universal joint, I took the precaution to grind a flat on the motor shaft so that the locking grub screw has better grip on the shaft. The grease tube was then fitted to the shaft clamp and secured to the side of the switch panel. The ESC was fixed to the back of the bulkhead with another couple of cable ties and the input cables, again XT60 types, and the three pole XT60 motor connectors mated. I have also fitted a Turnigy in-line volt, amp and watt meter in the circuit before the ESC so that I can log readings in case of spurious fuse blowing issues or unexpected battery life problems. The water cooling tubes were then run from the water pickup, through the ESC and then back to the transom ‘exhaust’ outlet, all water connections are fitted with spring clips to ensure water tight connections. I have used quite a large bore silicone tubing to ensure maximum water flow and made sure that all bends are kink and compression free. The R/C receiver is fixed to the rear cabin wall with some Velcro pads for easy removal, the two aerials were fitted in some plastic tubing at 90 degrees to each other as recommended for 2.4 gig systems and as high above the waterline as possible. The receiver is connected to a separate 4.8 volt NiMh battery via a changeover switch that also has a charging connection and LED power indicator, and I have also fitted a battery voltage indicator, just because they are cheap and convenient although the R/C system that I have has telemetry that reports RX voltage as standard. The battery charger I have chosen can handle the 16 cell series configuration of the drive batteries and so they can be charged in-situ when the main power switch is toggled over to the charge position. The RX and lighting batteries are charged separately. All of the servo and lighting switch cables are routed through the hull to the receiver through pre drilled holes in the bulkheads at high level for neatness and to retain the integrity of each compartment just in case 😲!!. The servo and cables and the water cooling tubes are strapped to a supporting bar between the bulkheads for neatness and security. With the TX switched on first, the RX is then powered up and the main power switch toggled to the ‘operate’ position, the ESC then gives a reassuring series of bleeps that confirm that all is well. The ESC was set up using a Turnigy programming card specifically for that model of controller and if required I can tweak the settings once the boat has had a few sailings. The last things to do now are to fit some strong magnets to hold the hatches and roofs down securely and then finally raise the RAF ensigns 😁

Servos & motor having a wobbly by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
No need to change the servo. Just disconnect and see if the problem goes. If not disconnect the motor from the esc and see if it's the motor causing the problem, as you suspected. If you have a rx battery you could just disconnect the ESC. Regarding those minature servos in my experience they are all the same and driving a big lump of motor will be a heavy load. Looking again it seems there may be two rudder servos and either could have failed. Dave

Servos & motor having a wobbly by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Hi EricMB There is certainly interference as the Rx light is flashing almost constantly. The rudder servo looks like a small type that I have had problems with (twice) on my RG65 yacht used as the rudder servo. Initially try disconnecting this and see if the symptoms disappear. If not reconnect and disconnect the leads from the ESC to the motor and see if the problem disappears. It could also be a faulty battery connection so check the leads and try moving (twist and pull) them whilst switched on. Let me know how this goes as there are other things you can do to solve the issue Dave

Servos & motor having a wobbly by EricMB Lieutenant   Posted: 18 days ago
Hi all, I'm working on a small boat with an outboard motor, that seems to have developed a judder when powering up. I'm running a 7.2 volt battery pack, Mtroniks Micro/Loco (marine) 10amp reversible ESC, flysky FS-R6B 6CH 2.4Ghz RX and Flysky FS-T6 TX. I've video'd it having a wobbly, any helpful suggestions gratefully received! I did wonder if the motor has got wet and is shorting out as it's in the outboard under water, but not sure. Thanks.. here's the link (too big to attach!)

Best Tx systems for boats by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
Hi All, don't think that that is quite what Nick meant! Most TX/RX sets nowadays are full of tricks and mixers for the fly boys; first setup question: 'Fixed wing or rotary?' for example! So - Nick: essentially it doesn't matter what you use (except the 35MHz rule of course!) but modifying all the aircraft mixer routines to suit boats is not for the faint hearted or novice. Therefore for your purposes I would recommend a relatively simple 2 to 4 channel set intended for trucks and cars. That gives you the basic control functions, including motor reverse, plus possibility to control a few specials, lighting or sound (horns) for instance. 2.4GHz is the future, but not without it's own pitfalls, as you've already discovered 🤔 I still use my old MC-10 40MHz set; - a) Cos it still works 👍😉 b) It's quick to set up for trials of a new boat or function, 👍 c) the more people move to 2.4GHz the less chance I have of getting any interference! 👍😊 (I have several TX/RX crystal sets anyway 😊 Bought up anything I could find locally the last few years) d) One of my models is a submarine! e) It can also store the setup configuration for 20 models. 👍 f) has no binding rigmarole. 👍👍 Cheers and very happy modelling / sailing, Doug 😎