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>> Home > Tags > rx

rx
rx
BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 35 minutes ago
Blog 4 update – Adjustable transom flap using metallic tape did not work. Think the vibration caused flexing and fatigue, so it finally split. Fortunately had established the correct angle, so reproduced the flap arrangement with a fixed thin alloy plate. Much more robust. Have installed the new brushless motors and ESCs. The current layout is brushless motors on the outer propellers and brushed on the centre, all powered by a single 3S Li-Po battery and Rx. Am hoping to commence water trails this week, but have found an issue which was also present with the original brushless motors. When either brushless motor is powered up it operates nicely, however, as soon as the second motor is started either motor “stutters” and a pronounced “squeal” can be heard. The brushed motor is unaffected. Have now tried several ESCs but to no avail, the issue remains. It can be cured though by powering each brushless motor with it's own battery. When this is done everything powers up cleanly and quietly. The obvious solution is to use two Li-Po batteries and abandon the single battery approach. Am reluctant to do this as the model weight will increase yet again. Has anybody experienced this when using twin brushless motors and, if so, how was it resolved?

Graupner Jumbo 540 motors by CB90 Admiral   Posted: 13 hours ago
Sorry but when you said 6v I assumed it was a SLA so your NiMh, must be a 5 cell as they come in multiples of 1.2v. So I agree the simplest solution is a Rx battery pack and disconnect the BEC supply. (May need to remove +ve wire from ESC(s) plug?)

Graupner Jumbo 540 motors by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 hours ago
Hi Will, Sounds good to me👍 I like the Action Electroncs stuff as well, have their dual ESC with rudder mixer which I want to try in my long thin destroyer to reduce the turning radius. Was misled about the SLA by a previous post🤔 Makes sense re the BEC which I believe is 5V 1.2A. I prefer a separate RX batt anyway😉 BUT: if you run a 6V NiMh down to 5.6V you are close to the Deep Discharge zone which will seriously damage the battery and drastically shorten it's life 😲 Threshold voltage is 1.0V per cell, so take erratic control as a warning that the battery is flat and come home soon! Look forward to your Sea Trials report. Cheers, Doug

Old Futaba servo wiring... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
Mornin John Re detector circuit: It's not very complicated, only 3 or 4 actual components. The clues are good RF diode and a very sensitive meter! I just bought a couple of 300microamp full scale meters. Will do a little blog when I've tidied it up and boxed it. Re Heli: can you post or mail me pics of the TX, RX and ESC please. Brushed or Brushless motors? Given manufacturer / model numbers I might be able to figure out what the pissibolities are. No promises though 😉 Sounds to me like the TX stick is set up for forwards / backwards like a normal car or boat set up. I.e. for 0 to full speed in either direction is only half the stick travel. For aircraft 0 is full down, giving you the full stick travel for the speed range. The ESC probably needs to be 're-educated' and the TX throttle stick re-programmed, IF at all possible with the TX you got with the Heli. Re " P.S. Signals come from where Doug?" - Don't understand the question John ?? Cheers, Doug 😎

Cheap motor for a quick fit, but what prop gents?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Mornin' (😲) Martin., First off; the Hornet ain't mine, wish it was 🤔 I had a look on the Lesro Models site to get an idea of what the prop would have to shove! Was surprised to see it is my hull with a different lid! The current kit is 80 quid BTW. To the motor / ESC; Yeah, you could use an 11.1V LiPo on that motor. BUT your ESCs probably are not LiPo SAFE! Which means that they won't have an automatic shut off or slow down function for when the battery is getting near it's Suicide voltage; roughly anything below 3.0V. Some say 2.7 but I don't risk that. So you would have to be cautious on the first runs and frequently check the remaining volts to learn how long you can run before you risk damaging the LiPo. If you can squash it in how about a 12V 10 cell NiMh? That should give you a good turn of speed with the 35mil prop. Bit heavy though🤔 I use an 11.1V LiPo in my Sea Scout with a 1000kV brushless. i.e. ca 11.100 rpm full bore, and that lifts her snout quite well as you have seen. Hope you find the motor, you seem to make a habit of 'mislaying' motors! Have you found the Supermarine yet? Apropos Supermarine; I've just been asked to renovate one 😉 Looking forward to that so I can see it's coil construction first hand. Will help me refine the mod instructions for you.😉 ESCs; mail me any printing on them and photos and maybe I can identify them and their capabilities. The switch makes me think maybe they do have BEC! The leads don't go nowhere cos it's only there to switch on the ESC / BEC. In my experience only ESCs with BEC have such a switch. Easy way to find out; set up an RX with a servo, plug the ESC lead into the RX, stick a battery on the ESC WITHOUT motor, switch on the TX and the ESC (move the switch to the end where two wires are connected) and see if the servo responds to the TX or any LEDs flash on the RX. Or just measure the volts across the red and black wires on the RX plug! If the ESC has a heat sink I don't think you need worry too much about current capability. Use your natty new Wattmeter to measure the current drawn by the motor as you run it slowly up to full speed. 😉 Don't think you need worry about volts either; all but the teeny weeny ones (like the fingernail size 3.7V ESCs I just bought for my Plastic Magic ships with only a 1S LiPo supply) can normally handle at least 12V, it's current that usually kills 'em😡 Sorry; Your electro-boards are still here, haven't been too mobile lately🤔 So I ordered some prepaid DHL labels (arriving Thursday) and will then get them to collect your parcel from me. Will email when they're finally underway. Cheers, Doug 😎

Old Futaba servo wiring... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Doug, I'll stick with your build blog. I still don't understand how you used the servo tester to replace TX and Rx, but don't worry, I'm happy to use the RC gear. As I did tonight in fact. Hooked the FlySky up to a Futaba servo I'd put on the rudder for the Sea Hornet and it all worked a treat. First RC installation I've ever done! Made loads of statics, but no RCs before. And you will NEVER find lights on one of my models. Mike Karslake, life long professional modelmaker, to a customer..."Sir I make models, not bloody table lamps". Cheers, Martin

Cheap motor for a quick fit, but what prop gents?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi Doug, yes, very similar sizes. (Nice finish on your Sea Hornet, btw. Mine cost me 99p off ebay!). My drill motor is from a 14.4Volt one, if I can find it! OR, I'll buy a 20,000 rev one from ebay. Roughly the same I should think. I'm going brushed because I have ESCs to use up, apart from the one or two for the Taycols, thanks to your kind provision of electro-boards. I was thinking 30-35mm prop. so that's good to have confirmed. This is actually the first full installation I've ever done in a model boat. My Sea Urchin is free running, the Crash Tender was installed by my Dad with REP single channel stuff and I once put a rudder servo in my brother's borrowed 575 yacht. Everything else (and that's a lot) has been static. Just got the steering servo mounted and made a sweet wee box for the Rx to help prevent it getting wet. Motor next. Cheers, Martin

Old Futaba servo wiring... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi Martin, would have thought the name was self explanatory! 😉 In the attached pic you can see my Robbe Servo Tester at the top. I used it to simulate the proportional signal from a receiver while testing your Taycol converter boards, not to power the motor.😲 Motor power came from the mains PSU in pic two, the battery eliminator circuit (BEC) in the ESC provided power to the tester. The tester provides the signal to drive servos, or in this case an ESC, and saves the faff of setting up TX and RX and fiddling with batteries when I want to test a circuit or function before building it into a boat. Cheers, Doug 😎 Oh, and by the way; when you get into lighting for your boats don't forget to buy an LED Tester as well 😁😁 You could also think about a simple RF Detector / Meter to check if your TX is actually transmitting 😁 Like I did with your TX using a home brew device - OR you could wait til I get around to publishing a Build Blog for the refined version I am making using a couple of RF diodes and a sensitive 300microamp meter 😊

Old Futaba servo wiring... by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Just for the record Sanwa Rx s are reversed too-----------Logically BTW Who makes the best type of crimping pliers for JST type connector terminals? All thoughts considered. Oh yes get a servo tester. Dirt cheap from about £2:50 on the likes of Bang Good, E Bay,Amazon. Really worth Having.👍

Old Futaba servo wiring... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Me too Colin👍 Hi Martin, My old Sanwa, and a few others from that era . 35 years ago, have the red and black wires swapped, i.e. black in the middle! DO NOT plug these into a modern set or you will burn out the servo and possibly the RX internal wiring as well😡 Yours with red in the middle are OK, just chop off the tab to fit it to modern mini/micro RXs. Cheers, Doug 😎

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Hi, Put the original radio board, smoker and light wiring back in. Take out your new RX and ESCs and use them for something else. Then fit a P94 dual ESC and Rudder Mixer from Action Electronics, sold by Component shop. You will get the same effect when used in Mode 3 👍😁 You will only need the 10A version for the Richardson. https://www.componentshop.co.uk/p94l-dual-esc-and-mixer-2-x-... Only difference with the 20A version is chunks of ally on the power transistors as heat sinks! Easy enough to 'self fit' 😉 Have fun, cheers, Doug😎

Seat Trials and mods. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
It’s been a while since the boat had it’s maiden voyage on the lake at St. Albans and I’m pleased to report that it looks really good in the water and goes like stink if you open up the throttle. Sadly I still don’t have any decent video of the boat yet as I can’t film and drive the thing at the same time, but I do have some static wide shots from my GoPro. When I do the video I’ll ask a cameraman mate to do the honours, maybe I’ll put the GoPro on the bow and then the stern to get some low action shots…the storyboard is already building in my head!! These early runs were great as they showed up some minor problems that needed attending to. I found that it needed ballasting slightly as it was not sitting on the waterline evenly from side to side so I flattened out some old lead water pipe and cut it into small sections so that I could add ballast incrementally. I did this in the ‘domestic test tank’ and once I was happy the lead pieces were fixed in place inside the hull with some super strong double sided tape. The ESC needed a little programming adjustment because I had forgotten to set the low battery level point to ‘off’ as I am using NiMh batteries and not LiPo’s , that was the cause of the short initial run time on the first outing…..DOH !! The batteries are now held in place by Velcro straps on some bearers that I added, otherwise a battery change involved cutting cable ties and replacing them at the lakeside…not very practical. The volt/amp/watt meter is also now on a proper bracket so that the display is more readable. I have also changed the charging connection from the nasty Tamiya connector to a nice little panel mount XT 60 connector that HobbyKing sell, it comes with a handy blanking plug that I have drilled for a retaining cord. I have also finally got around to upgrading the firmware on my Turnigy i6 radio to the 10 channel version so that I can assign the lighting to the switches properly and have the rotation of the searchlight on one of the two rotary knobs. I can use the old 6 channel RX in the new boat….blog coming soon.

upgrading Turnigy i6 to 10 channels by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
I finally got around to upgrading my Turnigy i6 system from 6 channels to 10 channels today.😁 Happily the firmware update went like a dream and I was able to install a new 10 channel rx in my RAF Crash Tender and then reprogramme the new auxiliary channels to the functions I need. And of course a long press on the exit button saves all the settings properly.....as we all know now 👍 😁 This has freed-up the previous six channel receiver which I now need for the new boat project which is now well under way. Robbob.

Martin's Taycol Conversion Boards by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Hi, Funny you should mention cutting the foam, I just finished hacking it about 😉 Then came to see the new posts! All fits in now. I just want to double check that the TX and RX still bind then pack it all up. If I haven't thrown your paper out yet I'll turn it inside out 😁 In some things I'm a tight arse too, or Needs Must when ...... Thanks would appreciate the bridges 👍 if you don't need 'em. Keep two in case you decide to copy the boards for your other Taycols, or any field coil motor for that matter. Will mail you re the 'Brass Bashing', thanks. Still 27° here and humid 😡 Ciao, Doug 😎

Martin's Taycol Conversion Boards by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
I know Martin, sometimes I blind myself 😁😁 Anyway I thought 'in for a penny ...', if I'm gonna make the boards then ... 'Wenn schon denn schon' as they say over here 😊 OK. I'll screw the boards into the boxes and put lids and screws in a bag. I'll leave you to make the cut outs in the boxes for the wires 😁 For the benefit of others here's a pic of the test setup and some video evidence dat de ding woiks 😉 RATS 😡 video file too big, 30MB limit 🤔 Will try another method later. Taycol Target was running on 6V with current limit set to 2.5A - just in case! All three boards work perfectly using the Robbe Servo tester instead of messing about with TX, RX and batteries 😉 Will now start packing everything, with instructions for the mods to the Taycols. By the way; do any of your Taycols have reversing coils and that silly lever switch? Cheers, Doug 😎