Hi there NP. Where do you want to start, I have converted several Richardson / Southampton, tugs. The first thing is do you want independant motor control, not found that i made a deal of difference, I now fit 1 ESC for both motors. Sound, when sailing you can't hear it, you can't hear most sound systems more than a few yards out, can be fixed but heavy so be careful, Smoke, in reality, smoke shows that the engines or injectors need servicing, on the model, try a computer cooling fan, the small ones to blow the smoke up the funnels. Better radio system, YES, which one your choice, but by a 6 or more channel system. Battery, a 7.2v buggy type NmHi pack will fit under the stern hatch, (just) or in place of the smaller battery under the front hatch, weight is not a problem, just get the balance right. I have altered the control cabin on 2 of my models, moved forward to the edge of the lower cabin, removing the steps down to the deck, also repositioning the funnels into different locations, ! model further back and the other the funnels were cut down and fitted to the top of the air intake casings, with a firefighting gantry across the top of them. In short, TX / RX upgrade, ESC, single or twin, 3300mah Battery last for hours, anything else, up to you. Hope this gives you some ideas. PS when cutting the wiring keep the motor wires as long as possible, i cheated and fitted the battery leads with a Mini Tamiya / Standard Tamiya converter Regards Mark
Hi Les, then I assume that you need something like this harness with JR/Hitec male & female plug/socket. This one also has a third plug for connecting the battery to a charger when the switch is in the off position. DON'T use this feature if you are using a LiPo battery!! There are several other versions without this third plug available here http://www.componentshop.co.uk/futaba-charging-switch-harnes... I guess the RX battery is a fairly small NiMH and also has the JR type plug. BTW: something to check before switching on- Does your speed controller have a BEC circuit? If so it supplies the RX as well so you don't need an RX battery at all. Or doesn't your yacht have any auxiliary motor and ESC? Happy sailing, Cheers Doug 😎 Looking forward to the video of the insulting tape 😁😉 or is that what I keep seeing on the news with Mr T??
Hi Les, what you have on that switch are JST connectors. Sometimes known as BEC connectors. The RX end will fit your receiver . You can plug it in any free servo socket. Just make sure red is on the middle pin and black towards the outside of the RX case. Then you only need to match the plug on the other side of the switch to your battery, which unfortunately you omitted to show us 🤔 Looks like the receiver has the standard JR type plugs. Cheers Doug 😎
Spin off from " Re Sea Rover by Wingcoax" ! This ain't a boat, so do I have to convert it to a float-plane to qualify for help here!!?? i know some of you guys are experienced fliers. 👍 After an exchange about batteries and glow plugs etc I dug my old Zaunkönig (Wren in English) out of the cellar and she was in a pretty sorry state Pic 1 🤔 Have now cleaned it up a bit (judicious use of Cillit Bang and a fine mesh scouring pad!) and she looks much more cheerful. Pics 2 and 3. Original Wen Mac/Cox 0.49 long since removed (still kicking around somewhere) and I would like to electrify it. Any advice on motor, prop etc would be extremely welcome. Purists will note that I have extended the top plane, from original 410mm to 615mm! This is an attempt to improve the glide characteristic and above all dampen the incredible roll rate! A gentle bank could suddenly turn into a twinkle roll so fast you couldn't count 🤔 Mod never tested due to move to Germany, new career, new lady, and the demise of many IC flying fields. I have loads of mini and micro servos, pico RXs (yes Dave, some 35MHz!) so they aren't a problem. But what motor, prop, ESC, battery? Have thought of Micron radio for a combi RX/ESC or a mini ESC with one of my pico RXs, but have no idea for motor and prop! Original prop is 15cm diameter. Pitch ?? Total weight of all the bits you can see here is 156gm. Would be nice to get a bit of history into the air. All contributions gratefully received 😉 Cheers Doug 😎 PS: she doesn't need to be a 'rocket' just tootling around would suit my flying skills!😉 PPS: plan in background is HMS ARK ROYAL (WW2) scale ~1:192.
I have a Grab Hopper Dredger for sale, buyer will need their own TX and RX. Structually sound and watertight, complete with 6-Volt battery, Motor, Speed Controller etc. Crane needs re-stringing and fitting with a shovel to complete. Collect from Kenilworth, Warwickshire. £150.00 O.N.O
About 10 years old, currently with a DC motor setup Hectoperm but complete base plate can be swapped for a 2 cylinder cheddar models Proteus boiler and steam plant. With ABC boiler control. Lovely detailed model, cruses well on 4 Lead acid batteries in parallel lots of power from the MARXX motor and 60 ~ 70mm I forget, 4 blade brass prop. Actually needs more weight in the back already 4 lumps of lead in the back and some plates of stainless steel. When it gets moving the bow wave is huge. 😁
Hi Wingcoax. Sorry...not me. I am a keen DIY'er, as all model makers probably are, but I have no involvement in any DIY forums. My tag line is what's called a 'syntactic ambiguity' and it's always amused me so this other person probably has a similar sense of humour, or he is Groucho Marx (unlikely) 😋 Robbob.
Hi Doug I am impressed. There are also LiFe batteries around and are somewhat safer for Tx/Rx use, but require the same care as all Lixx batteries. I am confused by the CONRAD battery rated at 4amp and 30C. I would say this suggests a 120A max burst current. I can't see 60C marked on the battery. It may well be capable of being charged at 2C ie 8amps but like you I would never consider charging at this rate. The higher power and performance batteries are capable of taking higher charges and will withstand the heavy discharges demanded by those who race fast models. However such batteries are for the serious racers and do not come cheap. I do have one concern and that is your mention of overnight charging. I agree this may be OK for NiCad, NiMh and SLA's but LiXX batteries should never be left on charge unattended and certainly not overnight. My chargers have settings for Lixx batteries that adjust the charge current for the voltage and capacity and automatically give a varied charge current until the battery capacity is achieved, balancing the cells at the same time. Dave
Hi Dave, Yes you're right, some sets (not all of them cheap Chinese) use a 2 channel system, e.g. Spektrum DS2 protocol. But most use at least 16 or 34 channels these days, some more, very few the whole 80. Depending on the radar type, band, pulse repetition rate, beam width etc etc you may well be right! Was one of my biggest problems siting antennas on ships. V/UHF filters and RXs got toasted looking down the throat of a 25kW radar, and HF whip/ rod antennas showed up as a 'mysterious' target blip! We had to fit synchronised 'blockers' in some cases to isolate the UHF RX input from the pulse. Not so easy (or cheap!) for an RC set 🤔 Re spuds; suppose it depends how many you eat and how high the link frequency 😉 A four day period of steady rain and thunderstorms has just started here 😡 and all continentals moan about English weather!!! My new giant sunshade is doing more service as an umbrella for the more fragile plants; roses and hibiscus. Cheers Doug 😎
Hi, Dave is partly right, but that's only part of the story! If they are telephone masts (lattice or aluminium pole mast) I assume they are for cell phones and this would be the cell's fixed central station. The antennas often look like tall speaker boxes. There are usually several arranged around the mast to cover different areas of the cell, depending on whether the mast is in the middle or at an edge of the cell. It shouldn't bother you unless it's incredibly badly engineered or installed. The power will be relatively low as the cells are getting ever smaller, that's presumably why they need a new mast. Our RC sets operate on 2.40 to 2.4835 GHz. The nearest cell phone downlinks (mast to mobile phone) are in the 2.1 and 2.6 GHz bands so shouldn't bother you. If they also operate the old 800MHz band the worst that could happen is that 3rd harmonics of a badly engineered TX system could drop into the RC bands between 2.40 to 2.463 GHz. But these harmonics should be so weak that your RX will never notice them, never mind the wrong digital 'signature'. Also the RC frequency changes several times a second so at worst there might be a signal drop out (glitch) for a fraction of a second. The inertia of the servos would cover this so you wouldn't even notice. Someone using a leaky microwave oven on shore would probably cause more havoc 😡 There will probably also be dishes for trunked connections from the cell site back to the network node. These operate at much higher frequencies and have highly directional beam antennas so they won't bother you at all. Unless you climb up to cook your baked potato! 😉 If you want check with the council / installer what bands will be used. Cheers Doug 😎 (Comms Eng. Retd.)
Hi Ken I do believe they use a higher frequency but if they are very close you may experience some interesting episodes. As they are all digital the signal should be rejected from the bound rx as the code will be incorrect. Hopefully the high power will all be to the top of masts so your models won't be affected. Please keep us posted. You could contact the installer and ask the question, or perhaps the council can ask? Dave
Hi I am sorry to say that I do not have what you are looking for, but I do have a new Sanwa RD 8000 with RX, I was into Sub's and like your self my TX just gave up on me so I went out and got the Sanwa took it out of it's box tried it out and it worked fine then found the TX would not fit into my Sub with out moving all the internals so I called it a day with Sub's, if you are interested I am looking for £100 for the RX -TX x 2, Fred
Hi Allen I use these batteries and apart from the cheap Chinese imports they can give a high current. The drawback is that they are protected internally against overheating and as a result they can (and do) sometimes just stop working until they cool down. In a heavy current setting such as a tug for tug football or a fast electric this is what happens. If you are using in a more sedate model with low current draw they are fine. Also excellent for rx batteries with a switch mode psu. They are Lithium technology so do need to be balanced charged with the correct charger, but are more resilient than LiPos but still need to be respected. Common usage is in a rechargeable electric drill etc. You can buy battery holders for the cells which will avoid having to solder and makes charging easier I remember Torchy, just Dave
Sea King now restored. Veneered the deck adding some fancy balsa work on the bow deck. Modern veneers are thin and difficult to manage. Shouldn't have varnished the white areas as so called clear varnish is not clear when painted on white. Overall, I'm pleased with her and learned a lot of lessons. Loved Glue'n Glaze for the windows. What a Godsend. Retained the original como motors added a fan cooled Chinese 320 esc and linked her to a new old stock Acoms Techniplus Alpha 27mhz transmitter and Acoms AR-201 Rx with futaba servo. Hull painted Hammerite smooth Gold, with white Plastikote. Managed to retain the original Billings sticker and name decals.If the bath is anything to go by she should plane quite easily. Might add some ropes and fenders but enjoying her clean looks at the moment.
Hi Nick, was a simple answer to a simple question! The model / RX does not need to be connected and should not be switched on. You are saving in the TX not the RX. Could lead to some unpleasant results if you are fiddling with the throttle settings! 😡 Possible exception, setting rudder limits and trim BUT disconnect the motors just in case!! Cheers Doug 😎 PS I don't think that most sets will transmit when in Programming mode anyway. Haven't tried it! 😉