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>> Home > Tags > shg model

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happy hunter by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Hi Doug I agree the commercial stuff is not nice. I was suggesting the hobby plastic weld solvents freely available and used by fine scale modellers for joining plastic kits etc. It is sold under a variety of names, the SHG catalogue lists: PLAS1 Plasweld – Liquid Polystyrene solvent adhesive Plasweld special solvent weld will bond Styrene, ABS, Butyrate, Acrylic and other types of plastic materials. Easy to apply using a brush. Bonds in seconds. The Ultimate Plastic Building Tool , 50ml bottle 2.00 POLY3L Precision Poly cement 28ml with needle applicator 3.25 POLY4 Polystyrene Cement 12ml tube 2.00 POLY4L Mek Poly Liquid Polystyrene Cement 30ml Bottle 2.75 PLAS7 Plastic filler. Special filler for plastic modelling 2.50. There are many other suppliers in the UK and overseas. Like most glues it is recommended that you work in a well ventilated area and avoid breathing the vapours as far as possible. I do hope you weren't exposed to the substance for too long!

Blackpool Model Show by ilewis Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 5 months ago
& Here is the list of traders who will be at Blackpool: Component-Shop Christopher Wyn Brown Deans Marine DK Figures Linkspan Models Macs Mouldings Magnafix Mastman Michael McGuinn (Guns) Mobile Marine Models Modelboatbits Models by Design Mountfleet Models Peak Tools Pendle Steam Boilers Prop Guy Protean Design Scale Flags & Ensigns Scoonie Hobbies SHG Model Supplies RC Heli Guru Scale Hobbies Speedline Models Tony Green Steam Models Verkerk Modelbouw

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Neil, the suggestions about prop support are all valid, just different takes on things. I would (if you intend to repaint the hull) sand off to key, or prime the old paint prior to installing the shaft, as it will be easier to repaint and prep. Question, sorry if I missed this, is that a new shaft with new bearings? If not get new from shg marine (they are at the Blackpool, show, and the midlands engineering show if you can get to either, I'm not sure where you are?) they are dirt cheap, called aceteal or something similar, they water lubricate, and cost about £2 each. Roll the inner shaft on a piece of glass or a mirror, this will tell you if its bent, any sign of this, get a new one, or you might have alignment and vibration issues. (glass is totally flat! there's a free tip to test you prop shafts ha ha !!👍) same can be bought from shg, and get stainless. Back to the support, the thing Dave mentions is a piece of wood that fits between the hull, and the shaft. The shaft is then epoxied to this, giving support, but it wont be true to original. You have the original support, so remodel this to fit your new angle. If you use any bolts etc to secure, use stainless so they don't rust. Once painted, it will be hidden, and its underneath anyway so cant be seen. It will need to be tight to the outershaft, once positioned, you could solder, as they are both brass, and either feed into the hull bend over and epoxy, or screw as per original. Here is my big fireboat, its twin, but the concept is the same, the support came into the hull, and on this example, I put a brass pin through, and epoxied it all

Deans Seaplane tender by Flack Admiral   Posted: 6 months ago
SHG are a small husband and wife model company based in Staffordshire who manufacture and supply model boat bits: http://www. style='background-color:yellow;'>shgmodels.com

Motor Cooling by EAGLE Lieutenant   Posted: 7 months ago
Hi SHG Models sell a water pump that can be run for long time, l have one on my TID, and l've run for over 3/4 of an hour. Hope this helps. Regards Dave

solent lifeboat stanchions by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 year ago
Hi Cliff I believe it would have been 3:32 or possibly 7:64. The important point is to make sure you do not weaken the brass tube but also be sufficient to allow the chain to pass through. I suggest you buy some chain then use the smallest drill that allows the chain to pass through. I suggest you look at www.eileensemporium.com/ as they supply brass tube at reasonable prices and different thicknesses. I bought my chain from SHG http://www. style='background-color:yellow;'>shgmodels.com/. Download the catalogue and look at page 25. Good luck with the build Dave

solent lifeboat stanchions by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 year ago
Hi Cliff I used 1/8" diameter brass tube from B&Q. Made a jig and drilled each post with two holes to accept some brass chain I bought bt the metre from SHG supplies at one of the E. Port shows. Mine has sixteen either side and are 90mm from top to deck. I made a small shaped brass piece to cover the open top of the tube. I have seen others using flat strip of a similar size. If you use the lifeboat tag on your post you will find lots of posts, keep selecting "see more" and you will find pics of solent models. I am attaching pics of my model and hope this helps. If you are after a true scale version I suggest you look on the Mayhem site or the Lifeboats 24 site. If you or any other viewer find my answer helpful please feel free to tick the "like this post" box. Dave

Spraying the hull black. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 year ago
Now that the red oxide has dried and hardened it’s time to mask it off in preparation of spraying the upper hull black. First I had to very carefully flat back the ridge in the red oxide paint left by the edge of the masking tape that might prevent the new masking tape laying flat. I chose two types of Tamiya tape, the first is the very thin and flexible type to get the sharp edge and this was then overlaid with the wider flexible variety. Once this initial masking edge was established all round the hull and at deck level I could mask up the rest fully. As an experiment and to prevent any possible bleed through of solvents through regular newspaper onto my lovely red oxide anti-fouling I chose to mask with some ’Bacofoil’ which actually works very well for this purpose as it is quite strong and easily folded and formed to the hull shape. I didn’t use too much of this from the roll, and my wife never noticed it’s absence from the kitchen whilst I was nicking it …result ! The hull was thoroughly wiped over with a tack cloth and panel wipe to remove any traces of contaminants that could spoil the paint finish and then it went into the booth. The pre-warmed paint went on very easily but at one point I noticed a bit of blooming on the surface in a few places but much to my relief this soon disappeared. Even after only one coat the finish looked very smooth and glossy. I left this first coat for a day or two to fully harden before wet flatting it down with an 800 grade abrasive. The second and third coats were applied in the same way, each left to harden for a day or more before flatting with a yet finer grades wet & dry paper. With the final coat on the finish greatly exceeded my expectations 😎 The masking tape and foil was very carefully removed to reveal a very sharp line where black meets red although this will be covered with the white ‘Trimline’ tape I bought from SHG Model Supplies at the Bristol model show in the summer. After a further couple of days drying and hardening I gave the black paint a bit of a polish with some Halfords cutting/polishing compound. I’m extremely pleased with this finish and at the same time frightened to death that I’ll ruin it in some way with a clumsy knock or in the lettering and lacquering stages 😓 …

Graupner RTR PT-109 Props by DennisRobotham Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 years ago
HI Dave, catching up a bit, just read your query, if all else fails try ringing Jerome at SHG Models a very good chap at solving problems and makes all his own parts. good luck

Westbourne Model Centre by Derek Commander   Posted: 2 years ago
Afraid so yes. Used to be good. Had a few issues last year. Ordered somethings via the on line site, waited, found that for some reason it had not been printed off to be processed. By then some items were out of stock. Then had to contact them for a refund of parts not received. Others at our club have made comments that they seemed to have gone a bit off. When I spoke over the phone they were perfectly helpful apologetic. I also find SHG Models and Jokita hard to communicate with also.

Need a model by Derek Commander   Posted: 2 years ago
Saying a Model that's easy to build. If you mean simple vacuum moulded kits that can be built in days/weeks,that aren't too detailed. There's HFM Marine, Krick and SHG for very basic. More detailed are Deans Marine, Caldercraft, Model Slipway. Try and find a local club for idea's.

electric v drive by Derek Commander   Posted: 2 years ago
MFA only do toothed belt for the 800 series now. SHG models do the components, ie, toothed pullies and belts. Don't email them, they don't usually reply. Ring them.

robbe dusseldorf fire boat Wanted by Derek Commander   Posted: 2 years ago
MFA used to do nice Olympus 2:1 toothed belt drives, but no longer. I have a set in a Rother class, nice engine Sound. SHG models sell the belts and pulleys, had thought of those. Also there was one on direct drive for sale on here, I asked what the motors were and got no reply. If I get it wrong I can reduce the speeds on my Spectrum transmitter to compensate.

MFA Olympus geared drive by kinmel Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 2 years ago
SHG model supplies do a range of drive belts that might suit your purpose. Have a look in their catalogue ................ http://www. style='background-color:yellow;'>shgmodels.com/acatalog/

CLUB 500 BOATS SHAFTS SEIZING by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 years ago
HI Vic Do they also provide the lubricant with the "greasing" tube. Plastics all get hot with friction and any lubricant will have to withstand the temperature to be of any use. I have watched Paul and his friends sail their very fast Club 500 models and am not surprised that there are problems with certain bearings. If he is using SHG bearings I would personally fit to my model. I do believe you will have to clean any residue on your shaft though as this will be from the problem bearings. It's possible that the shaft has been damaged by the heat generated and may also need replacing. The water in the tube will travel up the shaft to lubricate the top bearing, but I am fairly certain the bearing in your boat are not ideal for the speeds you are running. Dave