More or less Martin 😉 After two attempts (7 and 15 years) I gave up the institution of marriage for life. The first nearly drove me into financial ruin, the second was so jealous that after every business trip I was subjected to the Spanish Inquisition, you can only stand that so long, last heard of with her boyfriend in USA. I divorced both. Lessons learned. Since 1995 I have a great partnership with my German girlfriend Gisela, who was also married once, to a latent alcoholic. We both agree; we don't need a piece of official stamped paper (much less a church paper) to show we love each other. We've been partners now for 23 years 😉 Cheers, Doug 😎 PS; "were" is correct. I have to admit that there was a transition period while working in Brazil that was very interesting 😉 This post expresses purely the poster's opinion based on his experience and in no way denigrates or derides the differing opinions / experiences of others who had more luck.
I think that if you are considering changing to LiPo's then it is worth the complete transition and also move to brushless motors and appropriate speed controllers. However if you don't wish to go to the expense involved in such a move an appropriate battery size in Lipo would be 7.4v, the higher the capacity in mah will only increase the an mount of time it will last. I think the performance will prove to be exciting.
Before the funnel could be installed wanted to fit a working radar scanner, navigation lights and the batteries. Decided to use sub C NIMH batteries in plastic holders, they should have the target endurance and provide some ballast. Fitted two sets of 4 cells, one at the forward end of the superstructure and the other at the rear, both at keel level. These were inserted into wooden battery trays to hold them in place. A dry test run showed a full speed motor run time well exceeding the hour target, so will try on water. Also took the opportunity to fit the Rx and then adjust the rudder before finishing off the wiring. Both the navigation lights (LEDs) and the radar scanner work. The radar is driven by a servo with the potentiometer removed and a magnetic drive shaft run up through the superstructure from below the deck. The motor requires about 9 volts to run at what would seem to be something approximating to scale speed; fitted a voltage reducer to allow the lights and the radar to work on less than 6 volts. The mast lights are to be installed in a separate circuit after the masts are added. As I get more into the detail it is evident the GA drawing and the photographs of the vessel in service differ. Fortunately the component locations seem consistent, although the equipment is not. This most apparent in the hold ventilators. The GA shows the standard cowl vents, but the photographs show a mixture between an vertically squeezed oval vent (which am advised is more typically German) and ventilator columns with cylindrical caps. The column style vents with cylindrical caps were easily made from two different sizes of styrene tube with the cap tops made from styrene offcuts. The squeezed oval style vents were more difficult. Broke them down into the major parts of the cylindrical vertical tube and, from a larger tube cut a small ring and filed one end to straddle the tube once it had been squeezed oval. Glued it into place whilst restrained in a small hand vice. Once set, removed and sanded the the two to give a smooth transition, closing the rear aperture off with styrene offcuts. Then resorted to wood filler, filed down to give a smooth, oval vent.
As the superstructure rose in height it confirmed a suspicion that had been growing for some time. In spite of the copious checks during construction, the leading edge of the bow was twisted slightly by about 3/32” towards starboard at it's base. Not sure how this developed, can only guess there was a slight misalignment during the original modifications that eventually grew to become clearly visible. It was the kind of defect only discernible to a careful observer - or me! Initially hoped to avoid corrective action, but the superstructure build seemed to emphasis the twist. The model is now looking quite good; it would be a pity to compromise it with an elementary, but fundamental, issue such as this. After many measurements, including using spirit levels and squares, decided to cut the trusty bow coat hangar loose, reposition it carefully laterally and then epoxy into place. The longitudinal shape was fine. The pictures show the twist, the cut and then the amount of reposition required. Reconstruction followed the original bow addition procedure. There was a lot of sanding required on the starboard side of the bow to realign the bow and hull transition. Fortunately, this was limited to the addition area, so neither the mechanical nor water sealed qualities of the original Velarde hull have been compromised. After repainting and finishing, all looked well, as shown in the final picture. Concluded this repair was indeed worth the effort. The problem would have been exaggerated in my mind to spoil my enjoyment and then pride in the model. Glass fibre is remarkably forgiving and there should be no reluctance to embark on such modifications when necessary.
The only remaining area requiring significant rework was the bow. Decided now to concentrate on getting the shape and dimensions correct. Made a template from a steel wire coat hangar, shaped to follow the Teakwood bow profile. Cut a mating recess in the upper bow and bulwark, fitted the template into it using CA glue. Once fitted and relatively rigid, cut a piece of styrene to fit into the space between the hull and the template. Epoxied the styrene into place at both the template and to original Velarde hull bow profile. This gave a nice looking bow from the side elevation, one that is also strong. Unfortunately, when viewed from the underside, the usual nice smooth water entry is not apparent. Had two ideas to attempt to blend the bow into the hull sides properly. The first was to cover this transition area with thin styrene and then feather it into the bow and the hull. The second was to use the modelers secret weapon, wood filler and do the same. After either approach planned to cover the whole area in thin glass-fibre cloth and sand down until smooth. Mocked up the styrene installation and decided to abandon the idea. The styrene makes the bow transition bulky, it also became quite clumsy around the upper area. Thought would try the wood filler approach instead. Shaped the rough filler with sand paper, it worked out relatively easily as it required little rubbing down. The modification worked out well and the bow looks satisfactory from both the side and underside. Decided also to replace the pulley drive arrangement with a toothed belt system. Have never tried this before and, as a friend of mine had a selection of belts and pulleys, thought would be useful experience to try it. One question perhaps somebody can help me with – what colour was the deck on this vessel? All my pictures showing the deck are in black and white!
PS: I noticed that the waterline (transition yellow to red) follows the wave line! Small tip: to accurately set the true waterline and keep it straight set the hull up on the building board dead level and vertical according to the plan. Use spirit level to check port / starboard for horizontal! (I.e. athwartships in marine jargon!) Make a small right angled jig to hold a soft lead pencil (or simply use a small try square). Attach the pencil to the jig / try square at the waterline height from keel according to plan. Then just trundle round the hull marking the WL with the pencil point. Tip 2: use narrow (ca 10mm) Tamiya masking tape (from the plastic magic department) to mask off the line itself. The rest can be masked as usual with cheapo decorator's masking tape and newspaper. Spray away to your heart's content. The Tamiya tape gives a wonderful clean line with no paint creep. Please don't be offended, nobody's perfect and I'm still in awe of your woodwork! 👍 cheers Doug 😎
Thanks FB .I thought it might be a good Idea as modration seems t o work put OK on the Aeromodeller site.People can be banned. However we will have to accept your decision and good luck with the transition.
Hi Fireboat Will you be making an anousement as to what time you'll be taking the site offline? also how long will the site be offline? do you have an estimation of time? Ed PS. Good luck on the transition... 👍
Progress update. The new website is now 95% ready for launch, a few final tweaks will be needed, but otherwise it's ready to go. The mobile app however, is only 50% ready, visually it's working, but functionally not there yet. I'll be continuing to work on the final parts for the next few days, with the aim to launch everything on Sunday the 1st! It's been a busy Christmas break for me, this website update has consumed many hours, but hopefully it'll all be worth it 😊 The website will be down for a few hours on Sunday while I copy everything across. @Onetenor, live chat was once part of this website, but it was removed again for a few reasons. By nature they're temporary, if knowledge is shared within them, they're lost in time. They also can't be moderated and are unfortunately prone to misuse. Another update from an early announcement too; I have done lots of work on response posts, so I'm pleased to say, it'll be possible to include as many photos/files as you wish in responses too! Also, all posts will be modifiable, attachments included, and can be deleted as well. You'll see all changes when the website goes live on Sunday. I'm still hoping for a seamless transition. Let's see! Thanks everyone for your support. Stephen
From the Damen sheer, lines and section drawings developed building plans. Decided to use a traditional 'plank & frame' construction style for the hull, which should suite both the hard chine design and help minimize weight. Most readers are familiar with this type of construction, so in future will only describe features introduced to recognize specific hull design details or those added to achieve lightness with a low centre of gravity. The basic framework was straightforward; decided to build the hull frame and then fit the sheathing (between keel and chine) first. This would create a definite hull form where all the electrical equipment could be trial positioned and installed, but still allow reasonable access. The upper planking (from chine to deck) will be fitted once this is complete. The Daman section and sheer plans show only a limited number of sections, in the interest of lightness, decided to build the hull framework using only bulkheads corresponding to each section. If the hull proved flimsy these could easily be increased. Due to the shape of the keel laminated the rear portion using 1/8' ply and wood strips. As the hull has a definite sharper keel section towards the bow, eliminated the wood strips to achieve this. Used ¼' sq. bass wood strip for the deck level and chine strips and a rudimentary stiffness check of the frame showed a satisfactory result. The limited number of sections is probably assisted by the hull shape which is has a considerable length to beam ratio, with sections transitioning smoothly. Tried to use ¼' balsa strips for the deck strips but found they were too brittle, even when soaked in ammonia. Decided the potential weigh saving was not worth the trouble and reverted to basswood. All the hull section and keel assembly was fabricated on a building board with cutouts corresponding to the section positions to locate the bulkheads and ensure squareness.
The Perkasa has a fairly complicated front end - nothing like as simple as the Fireboat - and transitions from the planar shapes of the main plywood skins to a sharply curved, complicated shape which will eventually be carved from balsa blocks. The transition starts with narrow strips of ply which the Instructions say to butt joint and glue together. I have added 1mm ply strips behind each of these butt joints to add reinforcing but also to make sure they join together without 'steps' In height. Thoughout this construction I've also added 1/4" square reinforcing wherever I can.
HI Kevgermany How long ago was It that you were promised one of our kits, KitShack has gone through a transitional period recently so your messages may of been missed. All our kits are cut on a CNC machine and are cut to order currently and would be happy to provide you with one. We have a website up and running now, you can check this out at www.kitshackmodels.com KitShack Models
Howdy! I too, am new to the site altho I have been building for some time. Like you I have built a lot of model aircraft, and have transitioned Into boating. I guess I was tired of picking up pieces, and the expense. I have several scale kits to build (Colin Archer 414 Is one), but I think with the never ending wind here In Texas a RC land sailer would be fun. Maybe something solar %uD83D%uDE0E! One resource for RC sets, parts, fittings, building materials, kits, tools,etc., Is Tower Hobbies.com. I know that they do ship world wide. Dumas Boats has a variety of fittings for most any scale. For LED lighting I found a web site MiniInTheBox, and still exploring what It has to offer. I have traveled quite a bit, but I have not made It to Germany, or GB. Still on my "bucket list". How Is your boat project progressing?
HI Lyle, Thanks for your message. I'm going to Install a new prop shaft anyway. How far away from the rudder to you reckon the prop should sit? HI mate, back again from the colony, somebody spoke of spray rails should be built on your model already , well I do not presume upon prior builders always doing It right. There should be say 3/16 by 3/16 Inch wooden strips at the chine where the side skins and lower hull sheets meet. These are what I referred to as helping In lift . The hull skin should flare at the bottom of the spray rail so that the base of the hull Is a bit more In surface area ans try to keep the spray rail the 3/16 Inch width towards the bow as this Imparts the larger lifting area at the transition point where the water recedes as the hull lifts higher as speed Increases and the little extra surface area helps SO much In lift. Most modellers scrape this area of the spray rail down thin to flare with the hull. It Is a choice between looks and performance. You can carefully re glue and reshape wooden spray rails as I have done It on my large seaplane tender ( scale I built at about 49 Inches or so) to Improve lift AFTER It was finished and running. I just sanded the spray rail back and reshaped and flared extra strips and pegged them with wooden dowels for strength after glueing and redid them and on my Fast Patrol Boat, the old Veron 56 Inch). So It all helps even to modify the model that bit extra, after finishing, after running In, after you learn something new! Rudder distance from the prop? Er, well a hard one to answer precisely say, the latter part of the prop Is a 1/4 Inch away from the leading edge of the rudder. ALSO If you reduce the 'front section' of the rudder, so that all the 'meat' Is abaft the pivot post, Is not a good Idea as rudders need a bit of meat ( rudder area) ahead of the post to actually ' help' the rudder to turn as It acts as a forward lever to assist the latter area to turn on the pivot. Even vertical tail fins of aircraft (not all) had/have some forward fin area ahead of the pivot point. A lot of heavy bombers of WW2 design and a lot of light planes designed and built since. Remember water and air can exhibit similar behaviors despite differing densities. Hope this helps a bit more, See ya Lyle.
It would be very difficult to redraw a single part such as a bulkhead from a set of plans and expect It to be a dimensionally exact replacement. Most plans are old and have suffered from paper stretch, print and scan distorsion. The best thing really Is to re-do the whole plans, that way you will be able to verify the smooth transition / curves from one bulkhead to the next. That way you won't suffer any unexpected bumps / dips. Here Is a copy of my work In progress. I'm still working on the forward cabin. This, not the bulkheads Is the tricky bit as the front window frames are curved top and bottom. Once I'm happy with the overall shape I will disect It and construct the details. At the moment my model Is drawn In mm for the 34" version. I will save It before I add the section thickness'es so that It can be scaled up or down. A big concern Is that I still don't have a quote for the fittings. I have contacted a name suggested to me but still await to hear the price. Rob