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Hi Doug and Eric If you want synchronized sound they will be synthesised. I bought an original Action sound unit for my Trent lifeboat as the sound was sampled on the Whitby Lifeboat which is the model I built. The sampled sounds are all available on a disk and you can easily reprogram to any sound you require. The latest offering can reproduce two motors which is good for twin props where the engines are often changing direction when manouvering. You do need a large solidly mounted speaker to deliver the deep engine notes. My Noisy thing works with any rx and both brushed and brushless ESCs. I suspect that they are designed to link into the Action ESCs which may explain the situation. We did have a discussion re the Action twin ESC some time ago and I did note that the two positive and negative connections had to be wired correctly or risk damaging the output stage. Whatever you choose the sound will greatly enhance the models prescence.
Been on hold for awhile while working on Al Khubar. Time to finish it you may have seen it at Haydock (OWLS). Running gear and electrics all working and has been sailed no leaks, Deck railings and all the white metal bits need doing along with a coat of paint to the deck. Superstructure and Fly Bridge need fittings and painting. Lots to keep me going for a while. More to come as I progress.
Hi Neil I used initially DAEX25 sold as a pair as they didn't have DAEX25FHE-4 in stock. I am now using the latter as it suits my amp and I have room inside the Trent hull above the waterline. For your small model you probably need a smaller exciter, if indeed you can fit one at all. I believe Doug has already explained about getting the correct impedance. I initially tried ordering from the States but their shipping costs were about £30 hence the Dutch company.
Doug Mark is right.👍 I have fitted transducers in my 1:16 Trent on the hull sides above the waterline and they worked as well as the 8" mylar speaker I had previously using with the ACTION sound unit. This weighed a ton and the reduced weight made the model sail much better. This tug has little access inside and very little hull above the waterline. I'd stick to the bigger model in your fleet like the PT109 and do a build blog. I hope you are going to start a Sothhampton build blog so we can follow your progress.
Hi Chris Good to hear you managed to get all the bits in. I did wonder where a speaker may be placed and without a good size its won't really sound right. I have used transducers and have two on my Small 1:16 Trent. They work best on the hull above the waterline as PM Devlin did with his model. The Technobots sound units and amps are great but last time I looked I couldn't find them on the site. Re the tank steering I suspect one motor is running faster than the other, you need to get them both at the same speed for the same stick movement on each stick. Any chance of some pics and video. A new post thread would be useful Dave
What ESC were you using? My experience with 600 motors is that they are power hungry, smell a lot and get very, very hot. I had two in a Slipway Trent (they advise the ECO version, no longer available) and used to be able to smell them from the shore! Could be the ESC internals circuitry shut down and may start working again when cool. Any weed in your pond will definitely overload them, which was my problem. Too big a prop will also cause overheating. I had 40mm 3 blade brass props in the Trent. It's possible that the motor is to blame if it has cooked the coils and caused an internal short. Try running direct from the battery with an ammeter in circuit. I am assuming you have checked your propshaft for free rotation and no binding, locknuts can and do come adrift and can tighten up on the shaft, which may explain the slowing down you experienced. Please keep us posted with your progress Cheers Dave
[Score: 10/10] 35" TRENT Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 40mins Twin Propellors (4 Blade 40mm) Direct Drive to a 700BB Turbo (4 Blade) Powered by NiMH (12v) 5Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through robbe navy (30Amps) ESC - Comments: displacement (18lb)
Hi Julian My 1:32 Trent lifeboat has a similar radar housing to your model. I made my radar casing around a very small servo with the feedback removed plus the the internal pins to allow for continuous rotation. You can remove the bottom part of the servo casing to make it even smaller. Mine sticks thro the top of the radar case and I plug the radar scanner onto the serrated drive. It worked fine but I subsequently removed the electrics and drive the motor via a voltage reducer ( I make my own based on a 317 chip) but they are cheap to buy. The real problem is the noise of the cheap gearing in the minature servos. OK on the water but very noisy if you are exhibiting inside. See pics Dave
Hi Julian As Doug has already commented this is a very small coreless geared motor that reduces the revs down to slow speeds. They are incredibly small powerful and quiet. I have a stripped down minature servo in my Trent lifeboat which gives the required speed but it is exceptionally noisy, especially when used in a display environment. This motor is the best I have found on the market and is certainly suitable for your purpose. I do hope you manage to find the solution for your radar and that you share how on the forum. Cheers Dave
Hi Paul As I already have the Action sound unit (Whitby lifeboat engine sound, my model) and a 20w amp I sourced some resonators from Holland www.soundimports.eu/. They were out of stock for the initial order so I bought two lower power exciters to see what they were like. Attached to the back deck of my Trent and plenty of volume but the vibration was very visible. I have now received some 24Watt (Dayton Audio DAEX25FHE-4 Framed High Efficiency 25mm Exciter 24W 4 Ohm) similar to yours and they are attached to the hull sides above the waterline and sound great on the bench. Will be trying on our lake as soon as the weather improves but should be as good as the big 8" speaker I was using and several pounds lighter so the model will sit correctly on the waterline. Thanks for sharing this sound medium Mine are attached by 3M VHB (Very High Bond) adhesive so I am hoping if I need to move or replace I can buy some glue to re-attach Dave