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>> Home > Tags > twin motor

twin motor
540 motor
brushed motor
brushless motor
johnson motor
motor
motor cooler
motor mount
reversing motors
torpedo 850 motor
torpedo motor
twin motor
twin rudder
twin motor
Brushless motors (again) by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 21 days ago
Again, as not wanting to nick someone else's thread. Huntsman 31 currently has a geared (belt) brushed motor which was probably quite a good spec. many years ago. I don't remember how quick it was but having watched brushless boats running this morning in Southsea I have decided now is the time for change before I start painting. I've been reading various threads and gleaned some info but it is still a minefield. Whilst this boat (original) is twin screw I am not yet ready to go that far so will stay single screw. A thread suggested 3639 -1100KV which is fine as a spec. but there are a zillion different makes and models for that spec. Cornwall models seem to offer 6 or 8 so I am looking for more specific advise for make and model of each piece of the power system...motor, ESC, battery, charger. I'm not going to say 'money no object' just that I don't 'need' to buy bottom spec. I suspect there will be as many different suggestions as 'Cornwall' have motor makes but something good will come out of it. Many thanks Steve

Friday's Child Fairey Huntsman 31 by CB90 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 28 days ago
They are a great looking craft, I am restoring one myself, please be aware that red paint may contain lead, so wear a mask while sanding. My restoration is of a old Fibre glass hull I intend to install twin rudders and motor shafts and go brushless, I am building the superstructure from scratch with some help from old plans. I want to have a swordsman type cabin.

Veron Vosper F.P.B. 52" by kevinsharpe Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi This model is a particular favorite of mine. I am restoring one having converted to twin electric motors. Quite a rare kit but impressive when made and is 52" hull. Hull is really strong and initially made for 10/15cc engine. Cabin structure quite testing to assemble. I have totally re worked mine. Quite a rare kit and probably collectable. Would probably sell well on e bay. Fleetscale do a hull deck and running gear but the cabin would be a challenge due to its unique shape and flying bridge. An excellent find. Regards Kevin

Twin Motor Perkassa by Lordgord Seaman   Posted: 2 months ago
Nice work there Dave, is there a wiring schematic for this model.

BRAVE BORDERER - BRUSHLESS SUMMARY by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Although have modeling experience, all my earlier vessels used brushed motors. This was my first brushless. The model is now running well, but thought, for the benefit of others considering this transition to summarize my experiences. Must stress the performance of a brushless motor is incredible when compared to a similar sized brushed; for a vessel such as this they are almost obligatory. They are worth the trouble! Had been advised that the best powertrain installation for a 37” Brave Borderer is either a single or twin screws, not three. This was good advice! Much heartache could have been avoided with a single screw installation. Unfortunately, that is not the correct layout for a scale builder. Tried three major powertrain iterations, with several variations within each group. All motors are 28mm O/D : 1) The original installation used 3 x 4600kV inrunner motors with 30 A ESCs. Had bought these items used. The motors were too fast and had little torque. The ESCs also did not have adequate capacity. The result was erratic performance, a high fuse failure rate and the eventual failure of an ESC and motor Picture #1. 2) First upgrade was to 2 x 2400kV inrunner motors, using 50A capacity ESCs. The centre shaft was fitted with a brushed motor. This combination did work, although suffered greatly from motor “squeal” and “stutter”. Eventually a motor burnt out and failed. Picture #2 3) Upgrade two: retained the 50 A ESCs, with 2 x 2600 kV outrunner motors, again with the brushed inner shaft motor. Reprogrammed the ESCs to soft start parameters. Much better, performance and reliability can now be considered acceptable. The squeal and stutter are largely corrected It has justified the challenges of getting here. Picture #3 Have tried both 2 and 3S Li-Po batteries, suggest use the minimum voltage needed to achieve the desired performance. Higher voltages translate into faster response and performance, but with less control modulation. The model can be easily overpowered. In summary, from my experience. For a marine application; chose low (under 2000kV) kV rating motors with an outrunner layout wherever possible (produce more torque than inrunners). Use ESCs with a ratings comfortably in excess of the motor ratings, fit fuses to supplement any ESC protections. Ensure the ESCs are programmed to “soft start” characteristics. Also, the obvious check of making sure shaft alignment is correct is even more important with the higher speed capability of brushless motors. In spite of the trails, cost and tribulations of getting here. Have enjoyed the challenge and the end result does justify the means. Also, do not finally fit the deck until you are satisfied with the performance. Making the changes described with limited access would have been very difficult and frustrating.

ASR 64ft R/C VID 2 by jbkiwi Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Boat is Scratch built 36" British Power Boat 64ft High Speed ASR Launch which belonged to the RNZAF. The launch was one of the 22 built and was shipped to NZ in 1940. It was the only one of its type in the Southern Hemisphere. Model has twin motors, ESCs, sound units etc. Has remotely switched water pump for water cooled brushless 2000kv in runner motors and remotely switched lighting. Uses 2x 2200mah 2s LiPos for drive and 1 1800mah LiPo for the pump (also a separate battery for the LED lights. Boat is built with strip planked balsa on ply frame and fiber glassed. Deck is ply, wheelhouse is varnished balsa. The colour is as it was for most of its time in the RNZAF . Took about 5 years on and off to build and finished it last year. (please ignore the time date - can't get rid of it .

BRAVE BORDERER by jbkiwi Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
If you are using 2 ESCs/BEC/UBECs with 2 plugged into 1 receiver you should remove the red wire from one of the plugs and tape it back to the lead, as both plugged in will possibly supply too much voltage for the receiver (you are getting double the voltage from 2 different sources) and this can cause the ESC to stutter . You should have no problems with Brushless out-runner motors as with the correct match with the ESC they should be as smooth as brushed. I have dual 2000kv 28/45 in-runners (with water jackets) and twin ESCs and 2 sound units using 1 receiver in my 64ft ASR model with no problems regarding proportional control (fwd or rev). I had a 28mm O/R in a Maiami ASR and it would crawl along (but the high noise was ear wrecking so have changed it back to brushed for now. I do have a similar slight high pitched squeal at certain speeds on one motor and this may be caused by the particular motor not 'syncing'properly with the ESC (Chinese cheap ESCs and HobbyKing /made in china motors) but short of changing that motor and ESC I am just putting up with it for now. The high pitched sync noise is fairly common and sometimes not fixable, (a number of my larger planes do it and its audible from 100m away (also amplified by a hull,-nice sound box). It can depend on the way a particular motor is wound (no 2 are identical) or even magnet placement/timing, as the may be hand wound by 2 very nice Chinese ladies at different ends of a bench ( just read some of the Hobby King motor reviews ) You could try changing the frequency on the ESC if it has that option as a higher motor Kv sometimes requires a higher frequency. Also make sure your ESC is set to the correct battery cell count. If it has an auto setting that should usually work best for general applications unless you are running fancy motors. Regarding interference, make sure you keep your aerial as far as poss from the motors and ESCs (even on 2.4 - I put mine right up in the bow) and there should be no problems. I have had 2 twin engined boats (my MTB & ASR) 1 brushed and 1 brushless running side by side 10" apart using the same radio for both (same type of Rec in each boat) with no problems at all. The bow down is probably prop shaft angle (the shallower the better) but if you are using counter rotating props you could try swapping props (inward rotation to outward) and motor rotation to see if it makes a difference. Also with 2800Kv motors you should be using small props (around 28-30mm diam 3 blade) as these motors are made to rev) as on a 2s battery they will be turning at around 20,000 dry and perhaps 18,000 wet (depending on prop) and if you load them too much they will cook with no cooling (assuming they are around 28mm dia ?) Only other thought - silicone couplings will squeal real loud if they slip.

bulkheads by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Haig, seems to be a common mistake to get Schottel Drives (Z-Drives) and Voith - Schneider confused with one another! First two pics show a twin Voith propeller on a tug hull (as on the plan above) and the operating principle. 3rd pic is cross section of the Z-Drive as produced by the Schottel company. It is a 360° rotating 'pod'. Newer versions have electric motors built into the pod and don't need the mechanical Z transmission from inside the hull. With such pods under bow and stern even bow and stern side thrusters are redundant 😊 4th pic is the Graupner version, Mk II. https://www.graupner.com/Schottel-Drive-II-new-version-/2335... Cheers, Doug 😎

1/16th scale Tamar by marlina2 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
I'm considering Model Slipay Tamar Class as my next project. I have never used styrene before (other than Airfix in my youth). Every article I have read on this model have used a twin Speed 600 ECO set up. I am toying with the idea of brushless but have no idea where to start in terms of equivalent motors etc. any idea anyone?😁

BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Blog 4 update – Adjustable transom flap using metallic tape did not work. Think the vibration caused flexing and fatigue, so it finally split. Fortunately had established the correct angle, so reproduced the flap arrangement with a fixed thin alloy plate. Much more robust. Have installed the new brushless motors and ESCs. The current layout is brushless motors on the outer propellers and brushed on the centre, all powered by a single 3S Li-Po battery and Rx. Am hoping to commence water trails this week, but have found an issue which was also present with the original brushless motors. When either brushless motor is powered up it operates nicely, however, as soon as the second motor is started either motor “stutters” and a pronounced “squeal” can be heard. The brushed motor is unaffected. Have now tried several ESCs but to no avail, the issue remains. It can be cured though by powering each brushless motor with it's own battery. When this is done everything powers up cleanly and quietly. The obvious solution is to use two Li-Po batteries and abandon the single battery approach. Am reluctant to do this as the model weight will increase yet again. Has anybody experienced this when using twin brushless motors and, if so, how was it resolved?

Which battery? by Brianaro Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 4 months ago
I have a 1:16 Taymar lifeboat with twin Graupner 600 motors. Which batteries, Lead Acid or NiMH. Can anyone help please, what is the benefit of one over the other?

RE ads90's Vosper Firefloat by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Your answer even quicker 😲 OK, if you don't want to practice twin motor control using two sticks, like tank driver, then I suggest the Action Electronics mixer board (as discussed during your aborted tug conversion🤔). You'll probably need the 20A version with those motors. Cheers, Doug 😎

RE ads90's Vosper Firefloat by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi Neil, Looks like a somewhat simplified Range Safety Launch to me, the 43ft version from 1955 - , but the number is dead wrong. http://www.rafboats.co.uk/rsl43.html Scale between around 11 - 12 to 1. LoA - 11.7 Beam - 11.1! Twin props should ALWAYS turn in opposite directions to counteract the so called prop walk which otherwise shifts the stern sideways in the direction the props are turning - seen from behind when the boat is moving forward. the jury is still out on whether they should turn outwards or inwards; with respect to the top of the prop when going forwards and seen from behind. Separate motor control (so called 'Tank Steering') is great for slow speed manoeuvrability and very sharp turns at speed (to be used with caution!), but is not easy and needs a lot of practice! A twin ESC / Rudder Mixer is easier😉 For scale; 3 blade props. Suggest you start a new thread for this. Ciao, Doug 😎

RE ads90's Vosper Firefloat by NPJ Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Is this the right p[lace for.......................... So this is what I have……………. A good size to get my hands in! I assume it is a ‘Tender’ of some sort. What is best to do with the ‘outline’ so it meets some sort of classification? At 44inches long and 14 inches wide would that be 1/12 scale? Should the twin props both turn the same way (left)? Is it worth running motors separately for greater control? Two blade prop or three? Is there someone there with all the answers? Well that will do for a start…………….. NPJ

46"Vosper Crash Tender Lesro by Ianh Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 5 months ago
Have a query here busy with Vosper 46" I intend to put a twin drive in using aP94 electronic controller ex action electronics Some of the design says to use 2 Graupner 900 speed motor these are no longer available any suggestions as I need the gel cells for ballast I think MFA Come 850's might be overkill Thanks