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>> Home > Tags > twin motor

twin motor
540 motor
brushed motor
brushless motor
johnson motor
motor
motor cooler
motor mount
reversing motors
torpedo 850 motor
torpedo motor
twin motor
twin rudder
twin motor
BRAVE BORDERER by jbkiwi Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 2 hours ago
If you are using 2 ESCs/BEC/UBECs with 2 plugged into 1 receiver you should remove the red wire from one of the plugs and tape it back to the lead, as both plugged in will possibly supply too much voltage for the receiver (you are getting double the voltage from 2 different sources) and this can cause the ESC to stutter . You should have no problems with Brushless out-runner motors as with the correct match with the ESC they should be as smooth as brushed. I have dual 2000kv 28/45 in-runners (with water jackets) and twin ESCs and 2 sound units using 1 receiver in my 64ft ASR model with no problems regarding proportional control (fwd or rev). I had a 28mm O/R in a Maiami ASR and it would crawl along (but the high noise was ear wrecking so have changed it back to brushed for now. I do have a similar slight high pitched squeal at certain speeds on one motor and this may be caused by the particular motor not 'syncing'properly with the ESC (Chinese cheap ESCs and HobbyKing /made in china motors) but short of changing that motor and ESC I am just putting up with it for now. The high pitched sync noise is fairly common and sometimes not fixable, (a number of my larger planes do it and its audible from 100m away (also amplified by a hull,-nice sound box). It can depend on the way a particular motor is wound (no 2 are identical) or even magnet placement/timing, as the may be hand wound by 2 very nice Chinese ladies at different ends of a bench ( just read some of the Hobby King motor reviews ) You could try changing the frequency on the ESC if it has that option as a higher motor Kv sometimes requires a higher frequency. Also make sure your ESC is set to the correct battery cell count. If it has an auto setting that should usually work best for general applications unless you are running fancy motors. Regarding interference, make sure you keep your aerial as far as poss from the motors and ESCs (even on 2.4 - I put mine right up in the bow) and there should be no problems. I have had 2 twin engined boats (my MTB & ASR) 1 brushed and 1 brushless running side by side 10" apart using the same radio for both (same type of Rec in each boat) with no problems at all. The bow down is probably prop shaft angle (the shallower the better) but if you are using counter rotating props you could try swapping props (inward rotation to outward) and motor rotation to see if it makes a difference. Also with 2800Kv motors you should be using small props (around 28-30mm diam 3 blade) as these motors are made to rev) as on a 2s battery they will be turning at around 20,000 dry and perhaps 18,000 wet (depending on prop) and if you load them too much they will cook with no cooling (assuming they are around 28mm dia ?) Only other thought - silicone couplings will squeal real loud if they slip.

bulkheads by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi Haig, seems to be a common mistake to get Schottel Drives (Z-Drives) and Voith - Schneider confused with one another! First two pics show a twin Voith propeller on a tug hull (as on the plan above) and the operating principle. 3rd pic is cross section of the Z-Drive as produced by the Schottel company. It is a 360° rotating 'pod'. Newer versions have electric motors built into the pod and don't need the mechanical Z transmission from inside the hull. With such pods under bow and stern even bow and stern side thrusters are redundant 😊 4th pic is the Graupner version, Mk II. https://www.graupner.com/Schottel-Drive-II-new-version-/2335... Cheers, Doug 😎

1/16th scale Tamar by marlina2 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 17 days ago
I'm considering Model Slipay Tamar Class as my next project. I have never used styrene before (other than Airfix in my youth). Every article I have read on this model have used a twin Speed 600 ECO set up. I am toying with the idea of brushless but have no idea where to start in terms of equivalent motors etc. any idea anyone?😁

BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Blog 4 update – Adjustable transom flap using metallic tape did not work. Think the vibration caused flexing and fatigue, so it finally split. Fortunately had established the correct angle, so reproduced the flap arrangement with a fixed thin alloy plate. Much more robust. Have installed the new brushless motors and ESCs. The current layout is brushless motors on the outer propellers and brushed on the centre, all powered by a single 3S Li-Po battery and Rx. Am hoping to commence water trails this week, but have found an issue which was also present with the original brushless motors. When either brushless motor is powered up it operates nicely, however, as soon as the second motor is started either motor “stutters” and a pronounced “squeal” can be heard. The brushed motor is unaffected. Have now tried several ESCs but to no avail, the issue remains. It can be cured though by powering each brushless motor with it's own battery. When this is done everything powers up cleanly and quietly. The obvious solution is to use two Li-Po batteries and abandon the single battery approach. Am reluctant to do this as the model weight will increase yet again. Has anybody experienced this when using twin brushless motors and, if so, how was it resolved?

Which battery? by Brianaro Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
I have a 1:16 Taymar lifeboat with twin Graupner 600 motors. Which batteries, Lead Acid or NiMH. Can anyone help please, what is the benefit of one over the other?

RE ads90's Vosper Firefloat by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Your answer even quicker 😲 OK, if you don't want to practice twin motor control using two sticks, like tank driver, then I suggest the Action Electronics mixer board (as discussed during your aborted tug conversion🤔). You'll probably need the 20A version with those motors. Cheers, Doug 😎

RE ads90's Vosper Firefloat by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Neil, Looks like a somewhat simplified Range Safety Launch to me, the 43ft version from 1955 - , but the number is dead wrong. http://www.rafboats.co.uk/rsl43.html Scale between around 11 - 12 to 1. LoA - 11.7 Beam - 11.1! Twin props should ALWAYS turn in opposite directions to counteract the so called prop walk which otherwise shifts the stern sideways in the direction the props are turning - seen from behind when the boat is moving forward. the jury is still out on whether they should turn outwards or inwards; with respect to the top of the prop when going forwards and seen from behind. Separate motor control (so called 'Tank Steering') is great for slow speed manoeuvrability and very sharp turns at speed (to be used with caution!), but is not easy and needs a lot of practice! A twin ESC / Rudder Mixer is easier😉 For scale; 3 blade props. Suggest you start a new thread for this. Ciao, Doug 😎

RE ads90's Vosper Firefloat by NPJ Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Is this the right p[lace for.......................... So this is what I have……………. A good size to get my hands in! I assume it is a ‘Tender’ of some sort. What is best to do with the ‘outline’ so it meets some sort of classification? At 44inches long and 14 inches wide would that be 1/12 scale? Should the twin props both turn the same way (left)? Is it worth running motors separately for greater control? Two blade prop or three? Is there someone there with all the answers? Well that will do for a start…………….. NPJ

46"Vosper Crash Tender Lesro by Ianh Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 3 months ago
Have a query here busy with Vosper 46" I intend to put a twin drive in using aP94 electronic controller ex action electronics Some of the design says to use 2 Graupner 900 speed motor these are no longer available any suggestions as I need the gel cells for ballast I think MFA Come 850's might be overkill Thanks

Brushless motor selection by robhenry Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 3 months ago
I am hope to change twin prop drive on an old Aerokits 46" Crash Tender to brushless motors. Current drives are Graupner 820 Race motors with "Propshop" 35mm diam. 3 blade cleaver props. Would like to retain props as they are efficient but can someone with experience recommend some good inrunner brushless motors for me. Thanks in advance

It's a sad day!. by stormin Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 4 months ago
Martin you do have a way with words, I like it!, yes, and steam locomotives run on at least ten times the pressure of a steam driven boat. Happy memory's of the old New Brighton lake, my nan and mum would take me over from Liverpool on the ferry, which in those days went to New Brighton, with my pride and joy under my arm, my "victory models fire boat" remember the one? all plastic with twin brass screws driven by a mighty midget motor. The old lake was demolished approx' 10 to 15 years ago and the new one constructed 30 yards further up. I was there as demolition was going on and the old lake was a large heap of concrete and rubble fenced off to the public. Do you know to this day I so so regret not squeezing through the fence and taking a hand size piece of the concrete side wall, the concrete wall I would have lent over 1000 times as a young boy of seven to launch my boats.

MTB379 by wunwinglo Lieutenant   Posted: 4 months ago
[Score: 5/10] 39" MTB379 Capable of 14mph Twin Propellors (3 Blade 45mm) Direct Drive Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) Batteries - Comments: This model was originally built by my father in the 50's for i.c. power. It was laid up in 1962 and remained inactive until two years ago. At that point, I egan recommissioning it, fitting twin brushless motors in place of the deafening single glow motor and straight-cut gears. I also added a great deal detail that my dad had never added. It performs very well nicely in this guise with the added drama of a throttle-linked digital sound system.

MAS 562 update by CB90 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Skinned the frames added deck and splash rail also started on cabin and superstructure, added rudder and installed twin brushed Graupner 600 motors via Graupner style direct couplings. Motor mounting system through a bulkhead gives extra support to motors which mount on to end of the shafts. currently adding a rudder servo mount, as rudder is a close copy of the real boat's and still functional.

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Just to clarify. Shipping was only 7 days to Canada, manufacture slightly longer. Examined the hull closely and was pleased. It is dimensionally accurate and robust, but light. It had also been reinforced in strategic areas and trimmed to the correct deck line. My many questions to Christian Sheppard – Capurro of MTBHulls were quickly and knowledgeably answered. A company I would recommend others. Reviewing the build blogs and U Tube videos of the both the Brave and Perkasa models, shows most use either single or twin screws. The original vessel had a triple screw contra - rotating layout. Experience from others suggests the third screw just adds weight and complexity, but little to the performance. Nevertheless, it was how the Braves were built, so that was how it would be. Christian gave several suggestions for other modelers who have built this vessel. Contacted them and was readily provided with information and advice. The finished weight of this model is important and a target of around 6 lbs recommended for a 1:32 scale version. This is to achieve the potential performance. Plans for drivetrain are 3 x 2835 4500kVa brushless motors, direct driving 3 x scale 3 blade 30mm screws. Decided use a single Li-Po battery for the best performance with minimum weight. It was suggested three batteries, each powering a single motor would be the best layout. After some research, concluded this would introduce a weight penalty and was discounted. There are various ideas for the best drivetrain. Unfortunately none for triple screws. Decided the best approach would be to fit the bare hull out as planned, then try it. Leaving all the finishing features for later. A contact in Australia had already done this using a single screw layout and kindly sent pictures of his hull layout and then under test. Very informative. The positions of the rudders, propellers and shafts are established by the scale dimensions and were permanently installed. Everything else was to be temporarily fitted, so it could be moved or replaced if necessary.

Interceptor by CB90 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
[Score: 8/10] 24"/2000g Interceptor Capable of 15mph and a runtime of 10mins Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type 35mm) Direct Drive to a 2958 watercooled (2 Blade X Type) Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 6Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Unknown 200A (100Amps) ESC - Comments: Zoom 1 (Interceptor) Mono boat. Built from a Glassfibre hull, brought on Ebay for £35 the hull is a slim mono racing type with a self-righting side cabin it runs a 1400W 14V 2958 4200KV Brushless Motor and 29-S Water Cooling Jacket with additional air cooling fan. I did not want to use a flexi drive as high maintenance and prone to failure so the shaft runs via two universal joint one at each end. the propeller is a 38mm copper alloy The ESC is a 200A and water cooled the twin rudders supply separate water one for the motor and one for the ESC. The rudder are positioned to reduce prop-walk and are hinged to prevent damage if hit a object in the water and ride adjustment. Turn fins and trim tabs for ride adjustment were provided by a spares kit for another boat. also foamed and added an inner sealed hatch, a rubber bump strip and safety loop. The Boat is fast and over-powered used at half throttle, may use a 7.4v lipo instead, the self righting works well. 20th April 2018 while running on 11.1v the boat stopped, no response on retrieval It was found that the manufacturers battery connector had melted and the connection lost see later pictures. the battery was made by FLOUREON and was a 35C with 5500mah capacity the 80A fuse had not blown.