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Hi Mate and welcome to the forum, (mad as hatters!!!) I have built the 46" and before you get to far in you need to decide if your having single or twin motors, and rudders, that way you dont fall foul of bulkheads, and shaft mountings, mine has Graupner 700bb motors on 3s lipos, but i am up-grading them to brushless soon, have the new ESC,s and the motors are on order. Great model to build and sail, attracts a lot of attention. Mark
Props by ChrisG Chief Petty Officer Posted: 13 days ago
Hello Doug Thanks for all of the useful information and yes it is a 'Black Art' and I have been party to some heated debates regarding props on large passenger carrying boats. I was highly amused by the link to 'Raboesh' which if it wasn't a Chinese company should have been. The model I am building is a Rother class lifeboat which will have twin props and a single rudder and I have read that due to the limited swing of the rudder the turning circle of the boat is much improved by having independently powered motors. Not at that stage yet still early days of the build. Thanks again and best regards Chris G
Built one of these a few years ago. Great for tug towing and rescue work. Had an Action mixer at one time and with two separate 6v batteries worked great. I could literally spin in the spot. Moved to twin motor control as I used to fly model planes and was used to using all four stick axis. Not sure a bow thruster will work well on this model as it is so manouverable. Makes into a nice realistic model and I wish I had kept mine. If I were to make another I would make a better seal of the rear deck, it leaks like mad in it's designed fit. I eventually made a raised coaming round the opening. Coming along nicely.
[Score: 8/10] 35"/2700g ILLINI LOYAL Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 60mins Twin Propellors (5 Blade 50mm) Direct Drive to a 775 JOHNSON TYPE (5 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through DIMART 320A FAN-COOLED (15Amps) ESC - Comments: ANOTHER ON THE WAYS: SALVAGED DUMAS ABS HYDRODYNE HULL, 35 X 10 X 2" ORIGINALLY IN THE AMERICAN BEAUTY KIT. MY INTENT IS TO SCRATCH BUILD FROM THIS HULL, A SINGLE-DECK TWIN SCREW LINEHAUL TOWBOAT WITH A FUNCTIONING TELESCOPING PILOTHOUSE. THEY ARE COMMON ON THE UPPER ILLINOIS RIVER WHERE THERE ARE FIXED OVERPASSES OR LOW OBSTRUCTIONS SPANNING THE WATERWAY. THE DES PLAINES AND CALUMET RIVERS IN THE CHICAGO AREA ALSO HARBOR THESE PUSHBOATS. THE PLAN IS TO KEEP HER LIGHT WITH A LOW CG, BUT POWERFUL ENOUGH TO PUSH SOME SCALE WEIGHT; I RECKON 775 MOTORS WITH 50MM 5-BLADE WHEELS WILL SUFFICE. THIS BOAT WILL BE STEERED WITH STANDARD RUDDERS, NO FLANKING RUDDERS, BECAUSE I WANT TO KEEP IT SIMPLE. (K.I.S.S.) I AM STILL BRAINSTORMING THE SYSTEM FOR RAISING/LOWERING THE PILOTHOUSE; POSSIBLY A SERVO WINCH & CABLE OR LINEAR SERVO. A PNEUMATIC RIG IS ALSO A POSSIBILITY I RECKON. SHE WILL BE WEARING THE ORANGE TRIM AND MIDNIGHT BLUE PAINT SCHEME OF MY SHOP-ILLINIWEK MARINE SCALE SHIPYARD. I USE LIGHTHOUSE LED's & MINI SWITCHES FROM THE SEATTLE AREA EXCLUSIVELY, 9V, 3MM. HARBOR MODELS 1.5V WORKING RADAR & MAYBE A 6V WORKING DECK CAPSTAN WILL BE ADDED. SHE IS MY 5TH ADDITION TO THE ILLINIWEK MARINE FLEET, AND WILL OF COURSE PUSH AHEAD THE MATCHING BARGES. GO FIGHTING ILLINI!
Does any one have experience of models with twin motors in the Fairey Huntsman and Swordsman? (Or any boat) Would like what size the model was - what motor(s) were used and prop sizes, and was there any 'mixing' of motor control with rudder control.
Hi JJ. Just a word of warning, your Mtronics esc will not work with brushless motors, also 20amps is close to its limit with twin motors and fairly large props, performance wise, brushless is the way to go, but will need 2 esc's, wont run with one, if your dropping hints to the elves, spec your motors at about 700 watts and 600-700kva great torque with good revs at 7.2v even better at 12v Mark
Hi Neil, You read too much!! 😉 Before you give yourself the work of altering the rudders see how she performs with the twin ESC & rudder mixer. For slow manoeuvring, especially in reverse, I'm pretty sure the rudders will be almost irrelevant, apart of course for controlling the mixer and hence motors. If you use the P94 in Mode 3 you can spin the boat on it's axis😉 The guys with small rudders in front of the props most likely don't have twin ESCs and a mixer. Two maxims: Why complicated when simple works! If it ain't broke don't fix it! I intend to 'suck it and see' first. Whatever you do have fun with it, but don't 'over engineer', cheers Doug 😎
Hi John Glad to hear you have a working boat. The new wiring and ESCs have clearly removed any previous faults in the connection between the battery and the ESCs. It was a beautiful calm day at Boundary Park, Cheshire and I sailed my Perkassa so must have been a good day for fast patrol crafts.
Hi Doug, I am running late tonight due to my list of jobs! The problem is solved! I still do not understand what the problem was but the replacement of the escs has done the trick and she now performs as she should! Sailing today was a real pleasure thanks everyone for your help.
Hi John, earlier you wrote "Sometimes I have control of the speed on other occasions it has gone to full speed reverse and I have no control." Full reverse and non control is the classic case of aircraft Failsafe - Throttle full back!!!! You need to reset your TX to Throttle OFF for failsafe, and then look very closely at where your antenna is mounted. The RX should / may have two antenna wires these must be arranged at 90° to each other and one vertical, one horizontal. Cheers Doug 😎
Hi John, PT109? That foredeck and the torpedo mounts look more like a Perkassa to me! No Elco I've ever seen. I'm currently (or shortly I hope) converting an Elco 80 to JFK's PT109. Anywhere nearer solving your motor conundrum? Cheers Doug 😎
I attach some pics of my 34" Perkassa. It uses two large water cooled brushed motors (650?). Two Mtronic 25amp ESCs with one red wire disconnected. You can see the ESCs on off switches over the former in the next to last pic. Presently has a Planet Tx/rx and I use 9.6v or 8.4v NiMhs of 3 to 5 amps. Not fused (naughty). The battery sits between the prop shafts towards the stern in a tray. I control the motors on the left and right sticks with the rudder on the right horiz stick. The left stick has a ratchet so I set the speed with that and use the right sticks to keep straight and steer. As an ex flyer this is an easy set up for me. Run time is about 10/15 mins but that's long enough for me and the other models on the lake!
Hi Dave and Paul, as the two current esc’s are new under warranty and came fitted with Tamiya connectors. I am reluctant to cut the wires for now hence the connectors. The switches are one from each ESC one of which has the red wire cut. The range test was fine so the tx and rx are fine. The rx goes at the front under the deck far away from everything and above the waterline when it sinks in full reverse. The wires were out so you could see how everything is connected. If this does not work I can try two batteries next.