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>> Home > Tags > tx

tx
tx
Cheap motor for a quick fit, but what prop gents?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 hours ago
OK, found one, 'discontinued product' 🤔 Seems Tower pro only make gas engines these days. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/towerpro-brushless-outrunner-240... Specs "TP 2408-21 The most widely used towerpro motor available today. the 2408-21T is often used in GWS (means Grand Wing System, USA apparently!) upgrades. Paired with just an 18A besc, this motor is an excellent and cheap way to upgrade small planes to brushless. An RD1047, RD9070 or 8040 size propeller are the best choice, with the RD9070 and 8040 giving the best thrust and amp draw balance. For 2-3 Li-Poly Cells (7.2-12.6V) 31 mm diameter x 62 mm length Maximum current: 13A Weight: 50.2 grams / 1.77 oz Comes with stick mount plastic frame Firewall mount capable Comes with two prop nuts and one washer 3mm shaft diameter 10mm x 10mm stick mount Kv: 1750 9 Stator Poles, 12 Magnets" So it's OK for a 3S LiPo, which will give about 19.400rpm OFF LOAD. Max current 13A ON LOAD. No way of finding the other little one without at least a hint🤔 Looks like an Outrunner plane motor as well. Suck it and see! Probably similar specs to the Tower motor. The two brushed ESCs should be good for your Taycols as none of them should take much more than 10A or so. Use 15A fuses, as I have already fitted to your converter boards.😉 Bon chance mon ami, Cheers, Doug 😎 Re GWS; https://www.google.com/search?q=GWS+models&client=firefox-b&... style='background-color:yellow;'>tx=1&fir=Yy9FOffyN9znOM%253A%252Cm55UYJTjtHfuaM%252C_&usg=AFrqEzdcX_L57leaM37UXLA9kg6sVLbSag&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiyo8mUnO_cAhUkB8AKHc_UDNEQ9QEwAnoECAYQBA#imgrc=Yy9FOffyN9znOM: Pic is a typical GWS small plane, called 'Slow Stick'. If I had one I would name it 'Spindle-shanks' 😁

Old Futaba servo wiring... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 hours ago
Quite simple Martin, there's a chip inside the Tester which generates the same signal as comes out of a receiver. The pot on the top varies the signal just like the sticks on the TX do. Mr Karslake just didn't know how to do it. A 'stick-in-the-mud! Guess that was one customer who wasn't😡 Working models deserve lights like the originals. Even boats like your Hornet probably had at least a white stern lamp to prevent them gettin' rammed up the whatsit😲 Was only pullin' your chain a bit about the LED tester and RF detector anyway😁 Ciao, Doug 😎

Cheap motor for a quick fit, but what prop gents?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 hours ago
Mornin' (😲) Martin., First off; the Hornet ain't mine, wish it was 🤔 I had a look on the Lesro Models site to get an idea of what the prop would have to shove! Was surprised to see it is my hull with a different lid! The current kit is 80 quid BTW. To the motor / ESC; Yeah, you could use an 11.1V LiPo on that motor. BUT your ESCs probably are not LiPo SAFE! Which means that they won't have an automatic shut off or slow down function for when the battery is getting near it's Suicide voltage; roughly anything below 3.0V. Some say 2.7 but I don't risk that. So you would have to be cautious on the first runs and frequently check the remaining volts to learn how long you can run before you risk damaging the LiPo. If you can squash it in how about a 12V 10 cell NiMh? That should give you a good turn of speed with the 35mil prop. Bit heavy though🤔 I use an 11.1V LiPo in my Sea Scout with a 1000kV brushless. i.e. ca 11.100 rpm full bore, and that lifts her snout quite well as you have seen. Hope you find the motor, you seem to make a habit of 'mislaying' motors! Have you found the Supermarine yet? Apropos Supermarine; I've just been asked to renovate one 😉 Looking forward to that so I can see it's coil construction first hand. Will help me refine the mod instructions for you.😉 ESCs; mail me any printing on them and photos and maybe I can identify them and their capabilities. The switch makes me think maybe they do have BEC! The leads don't go nowhere cos it's only there to switch on the ESC / BEC. In my experience only ESCs with BEC have such a switch. Easy way to find out; set up an RX with a servo, plug the ESC lead into the RX, stick a battery on the ESC WITHOUT motor, switch on the TX and the ESC (move the switch to the end where two wires are connected) and see if the servo responds to the TX or any LEDs flash on the RX. Or just measure the volts across the red and black wires on the RX plug! If the ESC has a heat sink I don't think you need worry too much about current capability. Use your natty new Wattmeter to measure the current drawn by the motor as you run it slowly up to full speed. 😉 Don't think you need worry about volts either; all but the teeny weeny ones (like the fingernail size 3.7V ESCs I just bought for my Plastic Magic ships with only a 1S LiPo supply) can normally handle at least 12V, it's current that usually kills 'em😡 Sorry; Your electro-boards are still here, haven't been too mobile lately🤔 So I ordered some prepaid DHL labels (arriving Thursday) and will then get them to collect your parcel from me. Will email when they're finally underway. Cheers, Doug 😎

Old Futaba servo wiring... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 hours ago
Doug, I'll stick with your build blog. I still don't understand how you used the servo tester to replace TX and Rx, but don't worry, I'm happy to use the RC gear. As I did tonight in fact. Hooked the FlySky up to a Futaba servo I'd put on the rudder for the Sea Hornet and it all worked a treat. First RC installation I've ever done! Made loads of statics, but no RCs before. And you will NEVER find lights on one of my models. Mike Karslake, life long professional modelmaker, to a customer..."Sir I make models, not bloody table lamps". Cheers, Martin

Old Futaba servo wiring... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Hi Martin, would have thought the name was self explanatory! 😉 In the attached pic you can see my Robbe Servo Tester at the top. I used it to simulate the proportional signal from a receiver while testing your Taycol converter boards, not to power the motor.😲 Motor power came from the mains PSU in pic two, the battery eliminator circuit (BEC) in the ESC provided power to the tester. The tester provides the signal to drive servos, or in this case an ESC, and saves the faff of setting up TX and RX and fiddling with batteries when I want to test a circuit or function before building it into a boat. Cheers, Doug 😎 Oh, and by the way; when you get into lighting for your boats don't forget to buy an LED Tester as well 😁😁 You could also think about a simple RF Detector / Meter to check if your TX is actually transmitting 😁 Like I did with your TX using a home brew device - OR you could wait til I get around to publishing a Build Blog for the refined version I am making using a couple of RF diodes and a sensitive 300microamp meter 😊

SA Valour Class Frigate by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
MEKO 200SAN, Blohm + Voss, nice ships, know the MEKOs well. Was often at B+V, worked on the next version, MEKO 200AN for the Algerian navy, I designed the integrated COMMS system for them😉 You've built a great very representative model there, well done👍 Cheers, Doug 😎 BTW: might have an idea how you can do the 'sequential' with a few microswitches😉 More later when I've thought out the details. How are you operating the doors and the heli mover at the TX? Switches or proportional stick / pot?

ESC info... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
So, the programming is done with the TX.? Ah, right. I didn't understand a word of the instructions, though. I don't want want backuds or brakes. It's an outboard racer. Don't do backuds. And my other boats, even if they had a brushless wouldn't do backuds either. All speedboats. I don't have a club to go to, so no fiddly steering competitions. Guy I met last Monday about setting up a local group has already disappeared. How like model boaters. Martin

ESC info... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Hi Martin, Scroll further down in the description and the How and Why of the programming is explained. Basically; reverseable ESCs are generally factory set for the truckers,car racing and buggy boys! That means that before you can go from forwards to reverse, or vice versa, the ESC commands the motor to stop, this is to protect the landlubbers gearboxes😉 It's irritating for boat drivers to have to shove the stick twice each time you want to reverse the motor, makes precise control more difficult. So for boats you need to switch off this function. Programming also means teaching the ESC the Max forward, Stop and Max reverse throttle stick positions. Looks like a decent deal to me👍 A programming card isn't essential, you CAN use the TX and listen carefully to the 'Beeps', but the card is much easier. More 'lecktrickery' 😁😁 Cheers, Doug 😎

Lifeboat and Davit Completed! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Hidden switches (pic also shows stack guy wires), home made RC function switches (various lights, smoker, Whoop whoop all on one TX control stick or pot) on HMS Hotspur 1/72 1936 H class destroyer. From 30 years ago, and it shows 😲 Next on the MidLifeRefit list! Where there's a will ...... 😉 Ciao, Doug 😎

Martin's Taycol Conversion Boards by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Sooooooooooooo... Got it all squished into your TX box, (useful tool the rubber hammer😁),will work up some mod instructions for the various motor types on Sunday and hopefully get it off on Monday.😲 (Er .. "I'm sorry I'll read that again"!! 😁) Cheers, Doug 😎

Martin's Taycol Conversion Boards by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Hi, Funny you should mention cutting the foam, I just finished hacking it about 😉 Then came to see the new posts! All fits in now. I just want to double check that the TX and RX still bind then pack it all up. If I haven't thrown your paper out yet I'll turn it inside out 😁 In some things I'm a tight arse too, or Needs Must when ...... Thanks would appreciate the bridges 👍 if you don't need 'em. Keep two in case you decide to copy the boards for your other Taycols, or any field coil motor for that matter. Will mail you re the 'Brass Bashing', thanks. Still 27° here and humid 😡 Ciao, Doug 😎

Martin's Taycol Conversion Boards by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Evenin' Martin, yep, sorry about that 🤔 I wanted to be able to test the boards properly before I sent them. Seemed a shame to mess up the boards taking them out again. Oh well - if you copy the boards ..... 😉 The bridges are 40V 20A so will be fine for your motors. I also have some cardboard boxes but I was going to pack everything into your TX box as you did. Will now check if it all fits. Ciao for now 😎

Martin's Taycol Conversion Boards by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
OK, In chronological order😉 No! The Wattmeter has to be spliced into the cable between source (i.e. battery) and the load, ESC and motor. As shown in example 1 in the instruction extract above. BTW 1: if your Wattmeter comes with instructions in Chinese Unwinese (Misstoodifold in the under number 29s😁) then use the above. Despite it's name it's primary use to us is to tell us the current the motor draws so we can select appropriate fuses. It will also tell you the mAh you've taken out of the battery, or put in when on charge. As far as I'm concerned the actual Watt measurement is relatively useless, except perhaps for 'Bragging Rights' 😁 Speccing the ESC should be done by checking the motor current specs and adding a good margin for safety. If no specs available use the Wattmeter to tell you the current drawn at full voltage from a DC source. If possible under load in the bath. Hang on tight😲 That only works for BRUSHED motors of course! Then use an ESC capable of twice the measured current. BTW 2; if you want to use your 27 / 40Mhz TXs you will definitely need the suppression capacitors on the motors, despite the partial damping effect of the rectifier, to reduce interference to your own radio. Fuses; I'll put 15s in to be on the safe side. If the Wattmeter / Ammeter measurements indicate less than 10A max then change fuses to10A and use a 20A ESC so it has some reserve. Or is operating within it's true capacity😉 Cheers, Doug 😎

Martin's Taycol Conversion Boards by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
I know Martin, sometimes I blind myself 😁😁 Anyway I thought 'in for a penny ...', if I'm gonna make the boards then ... 'Wenn schon denn schon' as they say over here 😊 OK. I'll screw the boards into the boxes and put lids and screws in a bag. I'll leave you to make the cut outs in the boxes for the wires 😁 For the benefit of others here's a pic of the test setup and some video evidence dat de ding woiks 😉 RATS 😡 video file too big, 30MB limit 🤔 Will try another method later. Taycol Target was running on 6V with current limit set to 2.5A - just in case! All three boards work perfectly using the Robbe Servo tester instead of messing about with TX, RX and batteries 😉 Will now start packing everything, with instructions for the mods to the Taycols. By the way; do any of your Taycols have reversing coils and that silly lever switch? Cheers, Doug 😎

Emerald - "Round the Word" ocean racing yacht. by East-RN Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 15 days ago
Main Sheet Modification: Yachts of this nature, would be fitted with a Traveller, which would be used to help shape the Main Sail. Also, the route of the main sheet, has a lot of twists and turns to get out of the cabin and up to the Boom. Plus, it has to pass through the tube and bend at its edge. The starting point of the control would be from the cockpit, especially if it is a Single Handed yacht. The ideal place for the traveller, would be on the roof of the cabin. To keep physical disruption to a minimum, I decided to use the original boom running gear pulleys. The termination of the MainSheet would now be at the traveller on the cabin. 1. The cleat was removed from the cockpit, and the eye bolt was replaced by an S hook, screwed to the cockpit deck( see picture 1). 2. A hole was drilled in the cockpit, adjacent to the cabin hatch, and in a direct line with the main Sheet control system. This will allow the main Sheet to pass directly from the cleat. Through the pulley assembly (withought going round the pulley), and straight aft to the cockpit. 3. A brass tube was glued into the hole, flush with the cockpit surface and extending inside, towards the mainsheet control system (see pictures 1 and 2). 4. The Traveller was formed from a length of brass rod, (approx 300mm long), formed to the same curve as the cabin roof. Slide the pulley onto the rod so that it runs freely. Make a 90 degree bend at each end, the length of the traveller apart. These 2 legs will pass down into the cabin roof, leaving about 10 mm for the pulley to run from end to end. Plus about 10mm at each end of the rod, which will be bent up against the inside of the roof and glued. (see picture 3 & 4). 5. Mark the cabin roof where the traveller is to be mounted. I chose to mount the traveller directly under the boom pulley. I have made a revised sketch which is taken from the original plans for guidance. See picture 5. Note: make sure the pulley is mounted on the rod between the two bends. 6. Drill the holes in the cabin, pass the ends of the rod through the holes. I put a 10mm piece of wood under the traveller rod, next to the hole. This allows you to hold it securely, while you bend the rod out, on the inside of the cabin. Apply plent of glue or resin to secure it. Do the same at the other end of the rod, and leave to set. With the cockpit removed, and the mainsheet control system in place, take the free end of the main sheet and pass it through the new hole in the cockpit. The cockpit can be secured by the 4 locking pulleys. Now pass the mainsheet through the S hook and up to the boom. Adjust the S hook to suitable angle. When the yacht is rigged, the mainsheet is passed up to the end of the boom pulley, along the boom, over the pulley and down to the traveller pulley. With the tx/ex active, pull the mainsheet right in, and the trim set right out (this allows for final tightening).Secure the mainsheet to the eye of the pulley, ( I use a figure of 8 knot ). Now adjust the trim on the joystick to pull the main Sail tight. Finally, run the servo right out, and back in a few times, to make sure it works properly. Move the boat round so the wind cones from a different angle, and watch the traveller as the sail is pulled in and out. Now you are ready to sail. May your wake be long and straight. Ray 😎