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>> Home > Tags > tx

tx
tx
Sanding done by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
Hi Steve, many real IMM rod antennas I worked with were not tapered. So any metal / plastic rod of suitable diameter painted white would do. The relatively short (1m) whips are not always tapered either. If you go piano wire & heatshrink you could put a nice sweep-back into it by lightly bending it back while shrinking. When cool it will hold the shape. Here's a link to the supplier we most often used for the professional 'stick' (we called 'em rod) VHF IMM antenna, with a drawing. http://www.aas.de/special-antennas/vhf- style='background-color:yellow;'>tx-rx-antennas/104-staisf.html Memory playing tricks on me🤔it's actually about 141cm top to bottom. Cheers, Doug 😎 Here's a simple 35" stainless steel whip, also not tapered https://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-Marine-Band-Antenna-35in-VHF-C...

All hooked up, nowt happens... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
That sounds good Martin.👍 So all you need to do now is be a bit quick on the trigger at the weekend. Shove it forward as soon as you hear the first beep, then switch the ESC OFF. Then power everything down (RX then TX) and when you switch on again all should be hunky-dory. The Lone Ranger rides again 😉 Cheers, Doug

All hooked up, nowt happens... by rapidair65 Seaman   Posted: 19 days ago
Arun now sorted. Programming card did not work so I translated the pidgin english instructions for the ESC and it worked using the Tx. I now have forward and reverse, correct prop rotation and no battery protection. Also the water cooling system for the ESC works with the water exiting from the exhausts on the stern. On the down side the nav lights have stopped working! Pictures of installation and finished boat later.

Proboat Sonicwake by boaty Admiral   Posted: 19 days ago
Three weeks ago I got a Proboat Sonicwake deep V fast electric. This appears to be a replacement for their previous model Vorocity. Very interesting self righting method with a water tank on the port side, slots in the deck and a large exit point at the stern. Idea is that if it capsizes, water will enter through the slots and as it draws the boat under, the air trapped in the hull will self right it. If the boat is stationary in the water, it will list to port due to water entering through the stern outlet and when power is applied it will empty out. Bit scary to watch at first as I thought the boat was on its way to Davy Jones. I use waterproof marine clear tape to seal around the hatch ever time I use it. The quality of the hull raises a few concerns. This relates to its ABS construction as the vast majority of similar boats at that price are made of fibreglass which is much more rigid and would be more suitable for the high speeds. Makers claim it does 50 MPH plus on 6S lipos. The electrics however are excellent with the exception of the external quality of the Horizon Hobby STX2 TX which looks a bit "toyish". For myself, this is not relevant as I replace all my wheel TXs with the "stick type" and I found that the Futaba T2HR fulfils all requirements and worked well when I sailed the boat. I have not yet changed the stock prop for an Octura one, the latter works great on my Blackjack 29 with a noticeable increase in performance. The motor is a Dynamite Marine W.C brushless 1900 KV with a 120 amp W.C ESC . 😁😋 Boaty.

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
Hi Rowen, You don't need capacitors at all, and certainly not in series with the wiring. Whereas I can heartily endorse all that jbkiwi says about the possibilities of modern TXs, I've only scratched the surface of what my Spectrum and Turnigy sets can do, I can see no justification for the extra capacitors on ESC leads. The length of the wires inside a typical model can not have a significant effect on the total resistance. Given a typical resistance of 1m of copper wire with ca 1mm² cross sectional area of 0.02Ω (less for larger gauges) it ain't gonna make a happorth of difference whether you have 4" (10cm) or 40". Maybe a little more warmth but the capacitor can't change that. I also can't see where the spikes he mentions should come from. Also bear in mind that the ESC does not apply pure DC to the motor but a pulse train with a pulse repetition rate of around 8 to 10kHz. That's why the motors whistle and scream. Adding capacitors to this could distort the pulses or reduce their peak value. If the ESC is so bad that it produces big spikes when the pulses are switched on or off (which I doubt theses days) then junk it and buy a decent one. On no account fit a capacitor in series with the wiring, unless it is a special Coaxial Capacitor, which are very big and relatively expensive. See pic. I've only seen them on large electric motors on board ships where the much higher currents and longer cable runs involved than in models may play a role. A very small value capacitor, in the picofarad range might help to short out any potential high frequency RF interference but I've never experienced the need to fit them. In this respect it could be more important that the length of the cable is not close to the wavelengths typically used by RC sets (12.5cm at 2.4GHz) so that it does not act like an antenna. Cheers, Doug 😎 jbkiwi have looked at the link you posted but I'm not convinced considering the small lengths we use in our boats. Yes there will be some overshoot spikes in the pulse train but so severe as to damage anything is in my opinion highly unlikely, given a decent quality ESC in the first place. Something else on that link just occurred to me. There is a pic of what looks like electrolytic (polarised) capacitors between the wires. This is fine for aircraft ESCs which only run forwards, and thus produce positive going pulses. In our boats with reverse the pulse will switch over to negative going. Which after a while could have an explosive effect on the electrolytics. It blows the cans off and produces an interesting snowstorm effect. Good party trick😁 but maybe not so super inside a model boat😡 IF you do fit them to a reversible ESC be sure to use tantalum capacitors which aren't so fussy.

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
Doug, Am using the HobbyKing 50A Boat ESC 4A UBEC along with their programming card. The diode explanation makes sense so will fit one. jbkiwi My battery -ESC and ESC -motor wires are short, probably around 4" each. The addition of capacitors as suggested is intriguing as have never heard of it before. Think it is easier to keep things together in a boat, whereas with an aircraft pitch trim becomes a factor. Am using 2S batteries with a 50A ESC, with the motor max current of 30 A. Have you any idea what size of capacitor I should use? The Tx/Rx combinations are almost infinite as the ESCs are programmable too. Just wish the ice would go so can experiment! Thanks both for your help, with this hobby you never stop learning.

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by jbkiwi Commander   Posted: 20 days ago
Don't know what happened to my last post but I'll try again. This link, https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1148637-wire-... may be a useful read and explain what I am on about (rough idea in pic). I don't think too many people are aware of some of the problems which can be caused by altering Batt to ESC wiring. I don't think its too much of a problem at lower voltages but see what you think. Not sure if you have a throttle curve facility on your new TX but if it has, using that you can create a gentle start, ramping up steadily, no matter how fast you push the stick up. You can ram the stick up but it will only follow the curve you set. eg pic showing random curve (you can make this any shape you want to control any function) there are usually a number of curves you can set and save for throttle, rudder - anything you want to control automatically. Not sure about your TX but my 9xr even has a feature whereby you can slow the servo action down (I use that on my Piper Super Cub flaps which come down slowly in 2 stages (2 pos switch) and go up faster. Your new TX probably has a lot of these features and once you find how to use them it will open up a whole new world of fun. Another example of what you can do with these computer radios is, on one of my models I am using 'flapperons' to slow it for landing and as the ailerons come down the elevator is mixed to move up to compensate to stop the plane nosing down. It's pretty much endless what you can do. I'm still exploring after 8 yrs of computer radio use. I remember a guy somewhere talking about the flashing lights on his plane and saying it wasn't the lights on a flasher unit it was the TX telling them to flash.

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
Thanks jbkiwi and RN in Munich for your suggestions: Have never used Ali Express, those components look interesting. Will follow up. I have used a battery alarm of the type suggested and it does work well. Have a couple for use once back on water. The rule about adding a capacitor into the ESC circuit is new to me. Have ferrite rings fitted so will now explore adding capacitors too. Are these is series or parallel with the wiring? The relays are not used with diodes or any electronic gubbins. Wanted to make the circuit as simple as possible for a Mechanical Engineer, so used one separate relay per ESC. The relay operation is controlled by a RC switch off another Rx channel. It seems to work. Am aware of the back feed possibilities and hope to have avoided them with the separate circuits. Appreciate any thoughts though, can add diodes if necessary. Am using a new FLYSKY 10 Ch. Tx/Rx on this model which opens up a host of programming opportunities. Am experimenting with various features such an the interval between Fwd/Rv also limiting ESC response. As am now using the brushless motors essentially in unison, also toying with controlling the 2 x ESCs on a “Y” lead on a single control. Much to think about, pity our winter has arrived early and the pond has been converted to a skating rink.

fuse holder by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
Yep!👍 https://www.componentshop.co.uk/p95-indicator-fuse-boards-si... Spec attached as pdf. Strictly speaking the LED simply indicates the polarity of the voltage applied to it. Which way the motor turns depends on how you wired it. But it does help with setting up the wiring and response to TX throttle stick.😉 Easy enough to make though, as I did for my Sea Scout. See pic of 'Engine Room'. Or the Taycol field motor converter boards I've made for Martin and Colin. Two fuses are fitted; one for the field coil, one for the armature. Last two pics. Resettable fuses (contact breakers) are also available to fit these holders. Cheers, Doug 😎

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by jbkiwi Commander   Posted: 20 days ago
Rowen, here are a couple of things that may be of use to you (and others). The battery alarm will save you worrying about running out of steam as they can be set to beep at varying voltages to warn you of low battery, just put one on each batt balance lead and when one goes off (when an individual cell drops below the set voltage) it means start heading back. These can be picked up on Ebay for a few dollars. I use them on my planes as well and are audable from around 100m (these twin horns are the best) Secondly, re your ESC switches, these electronic switches (AliExpress) are great for this sort of thing (as long as you have enough aux switches on TX ) You can link them with a Y cable to work together or use them independantly for anything, (lights, pumps etc, - they can be operated by TX rotary switches as well) The ESC and 2000kv motor (HK) are the ones I am using in my ASR model and will work smoothly down to a crawl, the purple 1980 kv seems to have superseded these but I think they will be as good. The props are from Ali Express and are resin and available in L and R hand, are only a few bucks and perform perfectly while looking quite scale(ish). I painted them with an acrylic bronze which seems to have stayed on pretty well. Model weighs 2.8kg and will run at more than 10mph flat out with this set-up (using the 26mm L+R) props) which is silly speed and that's with 2x 2s 2200mah lipos (which will last till you get sick of it and still have 60% left) I was just looking at your Daman set-up and noticed the wiring method from the batts to the ESCs. You might want to make your batt to ESC connections direct to your ESCs (as per original ESC lead length)as your capacitors may get a thrashing (spikes) due to the extra length/ resistance you have there. There is a general rule that you don't lengthen the batt to ESC wiring without adding a 220mf capacitor of same voltage as the ESC for every 4"of extra wire length (ESC to motor - not so much). Might want to check this out in case you fry your ESCs You probably have thought of this but thought I'd mention it, 'just in case' Might help with your modulation as well. Have chucked in a vid of the HSL manouvering (first trials so wasn't perfect) and also the MTB (brushed) which I have just converted to a twin system (was twin but single Electronize unit) plus a sound unit. You may know that you can use as many RECs (bound to the same TX) for various purposes on the same boat (have run 2 boats together from the same TX) Might get you round the mixed brushless/ brushed problem with a bit of thought. Have you thought of changing your old HK silver 6DF TX to twin throttles, it's a piece of cake(as is the TGY 6x), just remove the aileron/rudder centering spring and make a friction plate as per throttle stick, and use the elevator channel as your other throttle. Set your ESCs and you can then use a twin system giving you perfect control. Saves a lot of hassle.

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
Good point with the kV rating Rowen 👍 I could try an experiment! Don't know quite why (JFF I suppose😁) I also have a 3500kV motor to play with, WELL it was there and not expensive, WHAT could I do? Guilty as charged yer honor🤔. I could stick that in and see what happens. Maybe I'll have to fit stub wings and floats and turn it into a flying boat😁 Had figured the relays where NO. Hope you remembered the back emf diodes, s'pect you did😉 Guess they are triggered by servo and micro switch, or did you get fancy with transistor drivers? Whatever, great idea👍 All the best, Doug 😎 PS Just a thought! If it's 'kV' problem you could try screwing your drive battery down a cell perhaps? Then maybe it wouldn't be so hyperactive. Another thought (must be the tablets!) many ESCs and TXs let you programme the width / sensitivity of the neutral point. Check your manuals, worth a try.

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
Finally the new brass propellers arrived, delayed about a month in one of Canada's regular postal disruptions. After minor modifications to the boss profile (the brass are more streamlined and thus longer than nylon) to give clearance with the rudder leading edges, they were easily installed. Could now refit the electrical equipment previously removed to get access to the shaft couplings. Inevitably took the opportunity to make “improvements”, so then could not get anything to work! After much frustration determined the problem was not from my improvements, but from the cheap and nasty slide switches provided with ESCs. These must have got damp during the test runs and corroded internally. Suggest when using these switches they be consigned to the garbage and replaced with proper toggle ones. Had decided to use the centre brushed motor/propeller for manoeuvring and low speed operation and then the outer brushless for high speed. Brushless ESCs do not modulate smoothly and motor operation is erratic. This was particularly evident when going from forward to reverse and vice versa. Using a lever control Tx, it was also easy to inadvertently operate the brushless control along with the brushed making the model response unpredictable. After some thinking, decided to insert a small relay into each of the white signal wires for the brushless motor ESCs. These relays would be controlled by a RC switch operated by another channel on the Rx. Hoping this way the brushless motors could be switched on and off whenever desired. The two relays would retain the ESCs as separate circuits and avoid any interference between them. The idea worked, can now operate the brushed motor confidently knowing the brushless will not be inadvertently triggered. This means low speed manoeuvers can be gently undertaken using the modulation and control ability of the brushless motors and, by selecting the auxiliary control, can add the high speed capability of the brushless. Am also hoping that when the Li-Pos trigger the low voltage cut-outs in the ESCs, this will retain a “get-home” facility on the brushed motor as that ESC operates independently. Much to look forward to when next on the water.

All hooked up, nowt happens... by rapidair65 Seaman   Posted: 21 days ago
The Arun lives! All wiring completed this morning, Tx turned on, stick full forward, boat turned on, esc bleeped, stick to neutral, more bleeps, advanced throttle, both props turn in correct direction for ahead propulsion, motors stop when returned to neutral. No reverse yet so it looks like the esc will need programming. Down at Derby Model Boat Club tomorrow to consult our programming guru. Result!👍

All hooked up, nowt happens... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
BTW Martin, going back to your original post- "Plugged tested (6.2 volts) Nimhs into Rx and it starts flashing ..." Did you check that the RX is Bound to the TX? E.g. by trying it with just a simple servo before messing with the ESC? Doug

All hooked up, nowt happens... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Hi Martin, You don't have to know what it MEANS you just have to do exactly what it says. It's written in surprisingly good and clear English compared with most! Even with the old 'dumb' RC the rule was always TX on first and off last. Just to stop the servos and motors going bonkers and maybe chopping your fingers off.😡 Take it slowly and go step by step and you'll be OK. Cheers, Doug BTW; thanks for waking me up with the foghorn 👍 nearly missed the 4th frame of the Sullivan vs Trump duel. No not THAT Trump 😁