Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info
Guest
Login Below
Join Us On Social Media!
   

Get The Model Boats App!
Apple App Store
Android app on Google Play


(Non Contributor)

Help support this free
website and donate.


Donate Now
£
or enter custom amount

£285 a year is needed to keep the website and apps online. Please consider donating £5 or more to help towards these fees.
All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

Many thanks for your kind support.

Model Boats Website Team


Donation History
February 2017: 6 people
January 2017: 37 people
December 2016: 2 people
November 2016: 2 people
October 2016: 8 people
September 2016: 4 people
August 2016: 5 people
July 2016: 4 people
June 2016: 1 person
May 2016: 1 person
April 2016: 9 people
March 2016: 5 people
February 2016: 5 people


Unique Visitors This Month

Website Members

Terms and Conditions
Privacy Policy
Advertising
Contact


Model Boats Website
Active Users (9)
Login or Register
To Remove This Ad

Login or Register
To Remove This Ad
>> Home > Tags > tx

tx
tx
Handed props by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Simple answer is yes, you need to wire the motors so the props both rotate in the correct direction. I usually use a wetted finger behind (stern) the prop to feel the wash of air when rotating in the forward direction. if you can feel it from the front (bow) side it needs the wires swapping on that motor. I suggest you also check that the tx channel is set in the normal as against reverse setting before you start as some ESCs run slower in the reverse direction. Hope this helps and if you find my post helpful please tick the like box as it helps others find the post Dave

Pro Boat Blackjack 29 Fast Electric RTR - Boaty by andycoburn Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 23 days ago
I race IC Multi boats in UK and European competitions. Nearly all the Endurance class (FSR-V) drivers use stick transmitters as the boats require precise sharp turning for the M shape course. However, in both Offshore and Hydro (FSR-H/O) the wheel tx is much more in evidence. Possibly due to the slower response required driving an oval course and the poorer turning of the surface drive boats. In M class (Fast electric), most of the top drivers use wheel tx nowadays. Again a simple triangle course.

GLORIOUS cygnus gm 33 by skiboo Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
some more done all electrics complete lights etc motor paired uprx tx leds all 12volt pre wired

Mersey Ferry "Mersey" by 4clubs Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
1/48 scale (38 inches long) Mersey Ferry "MERSEY" from early 1900's. Fully working model ready to sail c/w 2.4GHZ radio/Tx. Well detailed scratch built from original photos. Buyer collects from Maghull Liverpool Merseyside UK. £500 ono

Mersey ferry Royal Daffodil (ex Overchurch) by 4clubs Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
😭😭😭😭1/48 scale (38 inches long) working model Royal Daffodil (ex Overchurch) complete ready to sail with 2.4ghz radio and TX. Fully illuminated; fitted bilge pump. Very detailed model from builders plans. Buyer collects from Maghull Liverpool Merseyside UK😭😭😭😭😭 £500 SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD😊😊😊😊😊

Mersey ferry Rose for sale by 4clubs Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
1/48 scale (38inches long) Mersey ferry Rose from 1900's.2.4GHz Radio complete with radio TX batteries etc fully working model well detailed. Buyer collects from Maghull Liverpool Merseyside UK £500 ono.

Mersey Ferry RC workingModel by 4clubs Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
1/48 scale (38inches long)model Mersey Ferry Snowdrop (before the Razzel Dazzle colours). Fitted out with 2.4GHz radio, full illumination, bilge pump etc. Ready to sail complete with radio and TX. Well detailed scratch built from builders plans. Buyer collects from Maghull Liverpool Merseyside UK. £500

Soldering suppressors to motor by georgeo5664 Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
mike yes suppressors are required it helps to cut down the interference from the tx 1 capacitor goes from + to casing 1 capacitor goes from - to casing and last one goes from the + to the - pins on the motor hope this helps

Radio kit & batteries by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
My decision to include functional lighting and a rotating searchlight in addition to the usual throttle and rudder functions meant that I had to revise my initial choice of radio kit from a two channel system to at least a four channel system. My final choice was actually a Turnigy TGY-i6 six channel system from Hobbyking. The reviews I read during my research were very complimentary and it certainly fitted within my budget, I actually view it as extraordinary value for money at £44 for the TX/RX combination, my last R/C system was a MacGregor single channel 'clunk-click' system for £20 back in 1970-something when that sum was my weeks wage! 😯 The programming options are predominantly for aircraft and helicopter modellers but that's not a problem as there's all the basic programmable options in the menus that I need. I think I ordered the wrong 'type' of transmitter as I want the throttle on the left with a centre spring return and the rudder on the right stick, a quick strip down and butchers at the internals has shown that I can transpose the stick/pot/gimbal assemblies very easily to suit my preference and swap their functions in the menu options. The standard of construction is remarkably good for such a low cost piece of technology, speaking as someone who has seen and worked on the insides of innumerable bits of broadcast TV kit. The transmitter has four assignable switches, I'll use two for the lighting circuits, and one of the two pots will be ideal for my rotating searchlight. The rudder servo is a Futaba S3003 standard servo with plastic gears, I think anything more would be overkill. I also bought a couple of Turnigy R/C switches to control the lighting circuits and NiMh battery packs for the receiver and lighting supplies as I didn't want to feed these from the main batteries. I cobbled it all together on the bench for a quick test and it all works just as expected including running up the motor through the ESC, I have a programming card for that and I will need to set up the ESC before it goes in the water. The main battery packs are two 9.6v 5000mAh NiMh packs by Vapextech which are wired in series, they sit on a bearers on either side of the propshaft aft of the motor, the receiver battery pack sits between them and all will be strapped down with cable ties.

Plug in battery by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi I see you are located over the pond so will not be infringing the UK frequency control re 35Mhz. I am assuming by old you are referring to the older three pin female sockets with the battery and servos using a three pin male connector? You can use modern kit with the Rx but will need a conversion lead to match the sockets on the tx to the modern plugs. Trying to remember my flying days equipment I believe the battery socket was marked as such. The connections polarity wise were the same with black negative, red positive and white signal wire. The black wire was always nearest the case bottom edge with the red wire between the black and white wire. The battery connector did not have a connection to the signal wire so if a servo does not work in a channel it could be that is the battery connector socket. I hope this helps but please ask if you need further help Dave

DAMEN STAN 4207 by RHBaker Captain   Posted: 4 months ago
The twin rudders were made out of styrene strip and brass rod, which slide into brass sleeves in the hull. The rudder horn movement is severely restricted by the rear hull RIB well. The rudder posts are adjacent to the inner wall of the well precluding fitting a rudder horn that allows free rotation. To overcome this fitted the rudder horns facing out board from the rudder posts. The adjacent bulkhead had been recessed to allow the horn to swing freely into it. The rudder linkage rods were fed forward to a set of cranks and then linked together. The cranks were then joined to a servo with a short link. The intermediate cranks were introduced to allow free rudder horn movement. The RIB well can now be completed as the rudder mechanism works. I use the same Tx with various linked Rxs fitted to several models. To avoid confusion over control sense it is important to ensure all Tx movements remain the same. Thoughts currently are to control both the stabilizers and rudder servos with the same Tx lever. This means the linkage must allow one of the servos to be reversed, which in this case should be the rudder to retain consistency with other models. Unsure of the degree of stabilizer fin movement relative to the rudder so procured paired, and also mixing servo wiring harnesses to experiment. Each linkage has adjustment capability, so the results of sailing trails can be incorporated. As had now resolved the rudder movement issue decided the sterngate, which is behind the RIB well, could also be made operable. Perhaps one day will also make the RIB operate!

Motor Amps by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi Steve You use an ammeter. You can do this at the lakeside by holding the model in the water and running the motor at full power. This will give an indication of the max current drawn. It will be higher than on the water as the motor will be fully loaded with no forward motion, which will reduce the amps drawn. There are many Wattmeter/Ammeters available for about £20 and allow for up to 100 amps . For smaller models you may be able to use the amp range on a multimeter up to about 10 amps. The meter is wired in series with the motor and Battery. There are bits of kit that will measure the current on the water and transmit the info back to the TX. I use such a system with my TARANIS TX. There is a cost involved and if you are just starting the wattmeter is a cheaper and easier to use option Dave

Muddys Tarpon by muddy Lieutenant   Posted: 4 months ago
Tarpon from Model Boats Plans Service, plan No: MM494. I saw a model of this boat freshly constructed in the early 1960's, with Valve radio gear, Tx and Rx.. Mesmerized is probably the correct word, because of the hull lines, hull dimensions and the radio control, "Bang Bang" rudder control and a Diesel engine for it's power. Perhaps the fact that it covered our small pond in a very small time, was also a contributory factor, But it did and has lovely lines. The Tarpon was started as an "in between build", whilst waiting for either glue or paint to dry, but it did take over, and is now waiting for paint.. Regards Muddy

Nickel Silver Rod by cormorant Commander   Posted: 6 months ago
I did some sea trials with hull only and she looks really good on the plane. I have also put a wing tail mix on my Tx so she will turn in her own length. I will post a video once she's on the water. Steve

Boaty- Pro Boat Blackjack 29. RTR fast electric by Peter501 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 6 months ago
Yes I also run a Pro boat shockwave (very fast ) and also my fast MTB my preference is the Car type transmitter for these and find it more responsive ( again my personal opinion ) I also use a stick transmitter on my other three boats although not as fast the control is excellent plus an extra couple of channels for lights,smoke,sound Etc that is not available on my wheel TX.