Hi Doug. Yes that's correct, the trainer socket on the back of the TX is used for the firmware update. I found the info for the TX mod on another site and happened to need a few bits and bobs from Hobbyking so I added them to my order, so for £18 I can unlock the 10 channels that the system will support 👍😁 As I said I've not done the mod yet but when I start the new build I'll probably do the update and then use the old 6 channel RX in the new boat and store a new model preset in the TX just for 6 channels. Robbob.
Hi Dave, Yep it's the HT6, see my photos above.Good choice for a raffle prize👍 During my test I found two servos which were very jumpy and twitchy, and one 'what did nowt' 🤔 most worked perfectly 😊 Will do some more tests tomorrow with other TX/RX sets to find out if it's the system or the servo itself. Wayne: Sorry, no range check yet, it's been around 14° and peeing down for days. Likely to last until Tuesday - then we get sun and 34° !! Must be the b....y North Koreans 😉 More soon, cheers Doug 😎 PS Re older servos; How right you are, several years ago I was given a selection of old servos, including linears. Long defunct US make I think. Most had the red lead on the outside. I modified some but many refused to work with either my Futaba, Sanwa or Graupner. So I gutted them and used the motors and gears for other things; e.g. radar drive for HMS Hotspur! PPS the linears had a peculiar 6 pin round plug like mini DIN plug!
Hi Dave, you won't find a Conrad anything anywhere else but on the Conrad (or Amazon/Ebay) sites! But if you look for the Turnigy HT-6 you will find it on HobbyKing, it's the same damn thing for nearly half the Conrad price. See pics. Pure badge 'engineering'! Also just bought some Absima LiPos 2s 4000mAh from Conrad, €40 each. Today I found out that Absima is in Nürnberg (Nuremberg) just up the road from here, same batt €25 😡😭 Conrad will shortly be getting an appropriate mail from me! NO more Reely stuff for me!! I found the HT-6 very easy to set up, amazing what they pack into a $45 set these days. My Spektrum cost 12 times that a few years ago and doesn't do an awful lot more and is more complex to set up 🤔 Won't mess with mixer boards or two stick motor control just yet. Can use the mixer functions in the TX 😊 Have tested the HT-6 with various ESCs; e.g. Graupner Navy VR30 and Mtroniks Viper Micro10, no problems. When the new 2s LiPos are charged the next test will be with a Turnigy brushless ESCs and the BL I want to put in the Sea Scout. Progress is slow but sure. Why do I get on faster with electronics than with shipbuilding!!?? 😉 You're right; Mode 1 or 2 (3 and 4 are also available!) don't matter much. With this set you can assign any control element stick, switch, or pot to any channel (i.e. RX output) you want, and very simply - not like the Spektrum🤔. Like it.👍 I also like having the two pots available for proportional control; gun turrets, cranes, monitors .... 👍 And still switches left over for lights, sound .... Very versatile 👍👍 Only irritation is it won't go into operational mode until all switches are forward and the throttle (left stick) is pulled right back - motor off for an aircraft - safety feature. Minor irritation for a boater but pull the stick back and all is OK and you can then operate normally. Used the spring removal method on my old Graupner 40Meg MC-10. That box was a pain to set up as well🤔 I could programme the radio ATE for the old Home Office Type Approval lab faster, but then - I wrote the software 😉 Cheers Doug 😎
Hi Doug Enjoying your new toy. Not sure that Mode 2 or 1 for that matter has much relevance if you are using two sticks to control your ESCs. The gimbal posted by Canabus looks like the Taranis stick with an additional rotary control at the tip. Most gimbals use a spring to effect self centering and removing said spring disables this feature. One of the reasons I use the Taranis is to allow me to mix at the tx avoiding lots of complicated wiring and expensive mixer boards on the vessel. I did find the Conrad Reely HT-6 but not on the Hobbyking site. Can you post a pic please? Dave
Hi Doug...it's this one: and no that little issue is still ongoing...have changed my Tx/Rx/ESC to Turnigy....the Mtroniks ESC's I was using were 'compromised' regarding the set-up...I now have a programmable card to set up my ESC's - The Dauntless has been converted to a Police launch, it's a twin screw using two Electronize ESC's.....just needs a Tx/Rx and batteries, possibly looking at lead acid x2
Hi Doug my Olympic and Bills Titanic have three ESCs. The centre motor enables warp speed and produces a correct bow wave albeit at a very unscale speed. On such large models it helps to turn in a reasonable radius. My HMS Grenville also has two escs to help with manouvers. Then again I used to fly planes so still enjoy using all four sticks on my tx. Dave
Hi RHBaker What kind of ESCs are you using? Doug I would not use both BEC units even with your diode in place. Most manufacturers advise disconnecting one positive lead completely. Also if the ESC has a switch both ESCs must be switched on as I have damaged one of mine because it was switched off but still appeared to work. Result was similar to RH Bakers problem. I suspect the Mosfet gate voltage was exceeded without the internal power to the ESC, causing it to go permanently on. I also believe this may have been developed over time as I am sure this instance was not the first. The ESC still worked OK in reverse but went full on as soon as the stick on the tx was put forward. Further checking also revealed the internal BEC was dead. Sealed unit so no chance to repair. Both As Doug says a separate power supply is a better option if you have room, and modern switched mode supplies are freely available and will deliver much greater power for all your servos, lights etc Dave
Hi Mate, you have a 7channel Fasst receiver, very good quality, any Futaba Fasst transmitter will work with it. Would suggest looking on ebay as there are a lot of trannys available, would recommend a 7 channel, even if you don't need all of them. you can't expand a 4 channel TX bit you can only use 4 of 7 channels . Hope this helps Mark
Thank you. That's where she's meant to be, what I had in mind when I started. The battery failure from her first sail was haunting me the whole time. This battery is 5 years old now, and the Tx battery is older and original to the radio. Everything worked great though I was sweating bullets the whole time. I realize now I didn't even offer my friend Mark a chance to sail her, which in hindsight was quite rude - I'll make up for that.
Thanks for your feedback, I'm not trying to do a major rebuild just get the old Queen looking as good as possible, I think if it holds together after degreasing I'll paint the interior with epoxy resin to stabilize it. Then paint with hamerite smooth white to make it easier to keep clean. As for a motor I have a decoperm 6volt with gear box, or a Johnson 600 to choose from at present fitted with a 3 bladed 30mm brass prop. Also have the original 2 channel 27Mhz RX and tx. But not sure what to fit by way of speed control, I have an old variable sweep rheostat that works well. Wish I could upload pics it might help. Have a choice of 6volt SLA or 7.2volt nicads. I would like to keep to keep it as near to how dad could have used it in the late 50s early 60s. This project is more for family than me actually using it, just family history to pass on to my grandson. Thanks Colin
Hi Doug and Dave, very sorry for the radio silence, day job getting in the way! Really appreciate the input, interesting to hear about your experience with the progress of technology, I guess in using digital RX and TX setups there are different issues that arise! So, to your kind advice - I unplugged the servo Dave, and no difference, which made me think it was the motor. I disconnected the ESC (and hence the power), added a battery input to the RX and all was ok! That made me realise that the power section was the problem, confirmed by a suggestion a fellow model Boater made about checking the battery - instead of chucking out 7.2v, it was giving about 5.3v! Recharged and hey presto - problem solved! Flat battery giving out interference!! Here's the system now behaving as it it should; https://youtu.be/VbGxC0VIo3A Thanks again for all the help and advice - very much appreciated. Regards, Eric
Hi Julian Only 8pm when I posted so not that late. May be small enough but is there a splined drive output underneath that top casing? You may need to add a short extension to the output. Could just be a bad pic as other sellers (Rapid) show similar with a spline above the top casing. I attach a pic of a similar type to the one I used. This is one that burned out in my yacht. Metal gears so kept the case for spares. The motor melted! 23mm long 10mm wide 25mm deep from base to bottom of spline. 18mm if you remove the bottom casing. Regarding suitability: are you intending to run the motor direct from a battery? The motor is very small and you will need to keep the voltage and current low (2v) to avoid overheating. The pulse internal driver will take care of this but without the electronics the motor needs protection. Using the pulse system from the Rx will require three wires and a spare channel on the tx/rx. Hope you can find a suitable servo Cheers dave