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>> Home > Tags > tx

tx
tx
HMS BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
The weather has quickly turned colder, giving an excuse to get back to this model. Stripped out much of the interior and the prop. shafts to replace the nylon propellers with brass. These items all needed removing for painting, so decided to paint the hull before reassembly and then moving onto the superstructure. Fortunately, examining similar naval vessels and several U Tube videos, confirmed the hull as light grey, the deck a darker one of the 50 shades of grey and the lower hull below the waterline black. Used thin Tamiya masking tape to define clean colour separations, followed by regular tape, masked the hull into colour sections and sprayed using “rattle” cans. After the colours applied a light overall Matt coat to subdue any shine. The results are satisfactory. Will now reassemble and move onto building the superstructure and the other fittings. Prior to the season closing decided to experiment with my new Flysky Tx/Rx package, shortly to be fitted to this model. This Tx has a servo limiting function, which was hoping could also be used to restrict ESC output. Would like to make the full speed motor response correspond to full Tx control position. Currently can over power the model; which lifts the stern, causing it to come off the plane and then dig the bow in. Was thinking that if full throttle could be set at around 90% forward control movement and 40% sternwards the model would retain adequate performance, but without being overpowered or very sensitive to control lever movement. As the Brave was not available, tried the idea on my Daman Stan 4207 model. This is brushed motor powered and a good performer. Obviously the settings for the Brave will be different, but at least could try to see if the idea would work – it did! This Tx function is easy to use and adjustments can be made whilst the model is on the water. Once the ideal settings are achieved they can be programmed and then retained in the Tx. Will try this on the Brave when back on the water next Spring.

Mtronics and Lipo's by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Basically ads is correct, but that's only half the story! The clue is to look for 'LiPo Safe' when buying ESCs. That tells you it has a programmable Cut Off voltage setting to prevent damage to your battery. Default is usually 3.2V per cell. Absolute minimum is 3.0V. Below that you risk irreversible damage to the battery due to chemical changes that can't be reversed. The alternative is to fit a battery monitor which can trigger an audio and/or visual alarm to warn you to 'make nearest port best speed' before your battery is deep discharged, from which it will not recover! Some ESCs have a programmable function which allows to preset a reduction of the max power to the motor (instead of a total shut down) to give you the chance to get home before disaster. PLEASE don't ask me which ones. Check the specs carefully before you buy. Many current TX/RX sets will tell you on the TX display when the battery volts are low. Cheers, Doug 😎

Hobby King receiver clones by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Mornin' John, I've used 'Generic' crystals with my ancient Sanwa 35 Meg set with no problems. I do find tho that the 'FM' crystals seem to give better range than the 'AM' crystals. Check the specs of your TX whether it is AM or FM. Cheers; Doug 😎 DEACS!? My God, when did I last hear of them let alone see one😲 We used to use them in professional personal VHF/UHF radios (Police and the like) some 45 years ago. 400mAh was good stuff in those days! Threw my last examples out about 10 years ago, they had some interesting and quite artistic crystal growths though😉 Was just a brand name for NiCads.

Hobby King receiver clones by jbkiwi Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 21 days ago
The FSR6B will work with the FR Sky i6, i 10, T6 (which might be the HK-TR6A-V2), CT6B AND TH9X (which is the 'Hobby King' (FR Sky) 9x). I have bought the (Fly Sky) FSR6B and the FSR9B (8CH) and they both work fine on the 9x. Not sure what the difference between FR Sky and Fly Sky is, but it's probably just branding. I think Hobby King puts their own names on everything and modifies model numbers just to confuse everyone, like saying only their receivers match which is not true (perhaps in their product line but not in the real world) you just have to look around and take a punt. FR Sky make the TH9x (HK 9x) probably the 9XR for HK, the Taranis and a few others. Fly Sky seems to make the cheaper ones i6 (which I think has replaced the 6df) TR6a HK-6DF TGY 6X (hard to find the XR5000,- 7000 RXs anywhere for the 6x) etc. It might be worth a crack at the 6ch FS-R6B receiver as the matches mention a T6 TX, not much to loose and if it works, buy a bunch (check EBay, AliExpress and Banggood,-prices vary for the same items) like I did just in case HK dumps it and leaves everyone high and dry, as they have with a number of products. Now days you have to do lots of research and risk a few dollars to win, with all the B/S you get from suppliers,-not just R/C.

Hobby King receiver clones by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Hi Bryan, I have found problems, even with matched crystals, the usual problem is that the some of the old rx's would not operate with a tx from a different manufacturer. I have acoms, futaba, Fleet and magregor as well as some unbranded tx's, but some of the models which I have aren't working with tx unless it's the same brand as the rx. This problem is mostly on the 27mhz models, although a couple of 40mhz systems have had the same problem. I always buy matched pair crystals. Even some am sets which never have a problem. So I thought if I can make a chart showing what is compatible with what. Cheers Colin.

Hobby King receiver clones by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Colin, when Doug repaired my faulty (at factory) Spektrum DX5e Tx, I sent him my Orange 6 channel Rx and a recently bought black one (just a number) and he bound both to the repaired Spektrum. I think you only need to make sure the compatibility with the operating system is right. But I'm sure he can explain all that better than I. Martin

Cross Matching tx/RX from different brands. by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
As a vintage model restorer and user it would be handy to have a chart showing which branded tx's will work with which rx's. I have an assortment of radio gear from the early 60's to quite modern 90's, but as most of the models I have were donated to me without either the tx or occasionally the RX sorting out with such a chart would be easy. 27mhz and 40mhz. Along with the more recent 2.4ghz. Could be split into 3 sections, to show compatibility. Sounds like a challenge, but together we could compile such a chart. ANY TAKERS. Cheers Colin.

Mcgregor 1990s transmitter/receiver by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
I know what you mean, i have altered my Mcgregor TX to Futaba, the receiver was gutted and a Futaba RX hidden inside!!! this was for use on some 60's models so it looked the part, modern internals with a retro outer case

Mcgregor 1990s transmitter/receiver by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
Evenin' Mike, I like and agree with your basic attitude👍 BUT- How's your electronics!? Whereas it MAY be possible to obtain a 2.4Gig TX module for the Mac (but I doubt it cos it's probably too old) there's no way you can mod the RX to match. And which hopping system would you use? FAST, HOTT, AFHDS ...? Assuming you can find an appropriate TX module you'd have to replace the RX anyway. Your best bet might be to look for a 40MHz TX module, there were a number about before the 2.4 craze started! You'd still have to replace the RX though, unless your electronics is up to a rebuild and retune! And make sure you have a match; AM, FM, PCM, PWM ?? The UHF (459MHz) sets never really got off the ground(!😲) so modules for those are probably as rare as rocking horse droppings! Look for 40Meg bits. Bon chance mon ami,👍 Cheers, Doug 😎

BRAVE BORDERER by jbkiwi Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 28 days ago
Starting a bit backwards here as have posted more recently with some ideas. If you are going to have a twin brushless system using 1 REC, you probably should have twin 2200Mah 2s lipos, a power lead (I use a JST plug set) taken from the input leads of ONE ESC (not the batt leads) (I break into them and solder the JST leads on ) run those to a UBEC and then to your REC switch then to your receiver. If your ESCs have a built in BEC, withdraw the red power wires from the BEC receiver plugs and tape them back as you now don't need the power from these. If your TX is 2 stick 4/6ch etc and is capable of being changed to 2 throttle sticks (provision for ratchet strip - copy if necessary - on opposite gimbal - ie using set up as mode 1&2 throttle) you can use the existing throttle and elevator stick to give full independent control with either rudder or aileron Ch for rudder. The Chinese ESCs I use have a power switch as well as BECs which is handy. I would keep the brushed system separate from the brushless altogether with its own battery (or try power from the other batt as described above) otherwise you may be trying to mix 3 phase and single phase at some point. If you are using 2.4 you could use another paired 3ch receiver (does work, as mentioned in my later post) to only run the brushless throttle from a rotary sw on your TX (if you have that )

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
You beat me to it Colin 👍 I found those as well and zoomed 'em. Looks like a form of Hi-Drag Stockless to me. ZY-6 perhaps? https://www.google.com/search?q=anchor&client=firefox-b&tbm=... style='background-color:yellow;'>txIjh3v-f6XBUqtMaFvPunPF0WW6eEMlRwTx83aAQ7-VRjFuEVajCB3ZW6INeHJMT0AQMnnyxfIaPT6ioSCXe_15_1pcFSq0EWfp-oVF7ohoKhIJxoW8-6c8XRYR8UdrSsA2N-4qEglbp4QyVHBPHxEHwwlFx7f4JyoSCTdoBDv5VGMWEdeKfFdC8UvEKhIJ4RVqMIHdlboR4kyhSnadMgwqEgkg14ckxPQBAxH9KvO1-FzePioSCSefLF8ho9PqEco2s6mj51j2&tbo=u&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjA35yticfdAhVOKuwKHZ5uBG0Q9C96BAgBEBg&biw=1920&bih=955&dpr=1#imgrc=QnBVjglX2_7EVM: Cheers, Doug https://www.wikiwand.com/en/Stockless_anchor

Taycol Supemarine Resurrection by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Mornin' John, agree re chromite, but still don't know what chroDite is! I only personally own the one Taycol Target. I got into this whole Taycol business while I was renovating Dad's old Sea Scout last year and decided I wanted a bit more Oomph so upgraded it to a 1000kV brushless, which gives goods results on a 3S LiPo. See the vids I've posted of the the 'Sea trials' (Lake Trials!?). So I decided to use the Target in the ancient Billing Boats Danish fish cutter I'm restoring and converting from static to RC. Figured the Target would cope OK with the plodding pace of a fish cutter😉 BUT, I wanted it to be reversible without cumbersome external switches or relays as recommended by Taycol / Keil Kraft in those days. After surfing around a bit a found a website where others had tackled the same problem. Looked at their solutions and refined them slightly. All I do is rectify the pulsed (square wave) signal from the ESC with a bridge rectifier (4 hi-current diodes in a bridge form in one package), apply the + and - outputs from the rectifier to the field coil so that it produces a constant magnetic field just like the permanent magnet of a canned motor. The two alternating (pulsed) outputs of the ESC are applied to the AC (~) inputs of the rectifier, which go + / - or - / + according to the command from the TX, I apply to the brush terminals just like a normal brushed motor setup. The output of the ESC is a train of either positive of negative going DC pulses. Pic 2 the positive train on the scope. Pic 3 the negative train. The larger and wider the pulse the higher and longer the voltage is applied and the faster the motor spins. So called Pulse Width Modulation (PWM). The gaps between the pulses are smoothed out by the inertia (flywheel effect) of the motor, and anything hanging on it - like a prop and a few million gallons of wet stuff 😁 Hey presto, a field coil motor that runs forwards or backwards on command 😊 Main thing is simply to separate the field coil from the armature coil (i.e. brush gear) so you can control each one independently. No rocket science but highly satisfying when it all comes together and works on the pond. OK, I'll look up Mr Lynch, wasn't he the Sarge in Z Cars 😁😁😁 Cheers, Doug 😎

Taycol Supemarine Resurrection by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
IN THE BEGINNING there was what looked like a pile of rust😲 which got soaked in WD40 for 24 hours! After washing off with warm water and washing-up liquid, and drying in the sun for a few hours, the bearings (and copper wire brushes) were oiled, missing connecting links bridged, and 6V (with current limit 3A set) was cautiously applied. Lo and behold she rattled and protested BUT RAN! Oh! That nostalgic smell of ozone, and enough sparks to read a book by🤔 Next connections were changed, to separate field and armature coils (brush gear), and connected to a standard brushed motor ESC (Graupner Navy 30A) via my prototype converter board, and a Robbe Servo Tester to simulate TX and RX. lo and behold chapter 2; she ran forwards and backwards😊 and no sparks! Now dismantled (last 3 pics) to start clean up and replacement of corroded parts. Sorry Col, I broked your motor😁😁 Armature was cleaned up and commutator polished; surprisingly lots of 'meat' on it so motor has not been run much. Next stop; lathe to make some new frame spacers. After that new bearing bushes cos the old Paxolin end plates have worn so that there's about 1/32" slop! Will probably have to turn the drive shaft down from original 1/4" (6.35mm) to 5mm to remove last traces of rust and pitting. Cheers All, Doug 😎

Launch ELAINE, by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Agree on the vintage value (same applies to your Supermarine actually!) I thought you wanted to try and get it all working. I see two more bottles in that perspex box. What are those? I'm beginning to wonder if that's the RX and the chunk with the DCC90 is the TX. The DCC90 bottle could produce 2W RF in the HF band. So 27Megs would be in for example. Cheers, Doug 😎

Launch ELAINE, by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi John, I wouldn't attempt to replicate the old bottle TX. Who knows now what was in it anyway? The whole shebang sounds like a 'Homebrew' to me. (Nice drop o T-Triple-X anybody?😁) Once you've figured out the frequency band the RX is on making a transistorised CW TX on the same band is relatively easy. Tricky bit will be duplicating the 'modulation', i.e. how the control functions are actually triggered at the TX 😲 @ Colin; do you have any pics of the RX? Or any 'actuators'? Any sign of the aerial? Cheers, Doug 😎