Hi Neil, yes get a couple of singles or one dual board as you wish, same price, fiver a chunk. They make wiring up the motors a doddle. Also think about a few of the switch boards. See link above. Single switches you can use on the 3 on/off toggle switch channels on the Tx; A, B and D. A dual switch version you can use on the two way switch C on the Tx. Make sure they can switch enough current for the load you want to use; esp. the smoker! Don't know what current yours takes, you may have to suck it and see with a multi-meter. Cheers Doug 😎 PS don't forget to tell 'em to send my commission! 😉😉
Good luck John 👍 The 'hurricane' brought us a superb Indian Summer here in south Germany, blue skies and 25°C in Munich. 😊 Should last until Saturday, then the rain is back 🤔 It really is an ill wind that blows nobody any good! To avoid the binding timing problem Dave describes above use a separate RX batt and disconnect BOTH BECs!! Then only switch on the ESCs after the TX is bound with the RX. Several RC module manufacturers warn against BECs, e.g. Action Electronics! Happy sailing, Cheers Doug 😎
John As you are using 2.4Ghz radios there is quite a long delay in the binding between Tx and Rx. The ESCs also perform a set up and I have noticed that this is often quicker than the radio. As a result the ESCs have no signal and can revert to a failsafe state. If you have correctly set up the ESC with the tx then it should retain this setting unless you press the set up button whilst the lights are flashing. I suspect this is at the root of the problem. To restore the settings to your set I suggest you use a separate rx battery, centre the throttle stick and trim and get the Tx/rx working together. Then switch on the ESC and whilst the lights are flashing press the set up button and move the throttle stick full forward (solid green) then full reverse (solid red) return to neutral solid red/green. If you now switch off the esc and rx battery and switch back on the ESC should have solid red/green light showing. Repeat with the other ESC and test. Switch off and connect both escs via the Y lead. You can use one ESC to provide the rx power but do disconnect one red lead. Centre the tx throttle and trim and make sure you switch on the ESC with the BEC connected first. Hopefully both ESCs will now have solid red/green leds. I use three Mtronic ESCs with my RMS Olympic and had a very similar problem. I suspect the change from bench to water is more to do with stick/trim alignment and longer binding time due to other 2.4 Tx working in close proximity at the sailing site. I look forward to hearing your efforts next wednesday - hopefully the next hurricane will have passed by then.
[Score: 9/10] 60"/7600g Schooner - Comments: Scratch built with mahogany planks on the club's mould. Glass cloth and fibreglass inside and protected with G4 polyurethane resin all over. Uses a sail winch (Hitec) and travelling dolly for the two main sails and a separate arm servo for the foresails. Standard servo for the rudder. Power is from a 6.6v 1000mA LiFe battery. Taranis Tx using two sticks with the sail servos connected via an internal mixer to one stick. Ballast is fixed to the keel with two studs which extend into the hull where a steel bar is attached between both and acts as a carrying handle.
Hi John, maybe some clues here! "Hints & Tips - FAQs" You may need to make some adjustments on your TX; Failsafe, EPA ... I use Viper Marine 10s without any bother at all😉 Still don't quite understand why it works dry but not wet🤔 UNLESS, poor antenna installation or motor suppression (interference?) is activating the Failsafe. If still set as 'standard' (i.e. for aircraft) on the TX this will most probably be 'Full Back' and needs resetting to the mid point. Most (only?) logical explanation I can see, and changing the ESC won't cure it - but al least you'll have some spares 😉 Good luck, Doug 😎
Tx Doug - Looks like another piece of kit to put on the shopping list. Previously had just used a charger from Component Shop and when the lights stopped "blinking" to me that was it. Nothing is ever that simple 😉
Tx for the info Haverlock - Watt Meter- this is new to me, would this be to check the current drawn off load on the bench etc. I had seen "voltage bleepers" to fit in the boat but again i assume they are not the same. Back to researching
Tx for the advice Mark - had been researching and your views seem to back this up - edging towards 2 x 11.1v lipo in parallel 2200mah or slightly bigger dependant on budget. which will be removable. May i ask what "C" rating you would suggest. Not sure my skllls warrant a pic build yet as my 2 previous builds were just modified plastic kits, basically copies of other peoples builds online, not just as testing as this seems to be.
Exactly👍 It's the control / operating principle which counts. You just need the appropriate ESCs for the type of motor you are using. I agree that TX mixing often has limitations. Maybe because they are designed for aircraft!? Doug 😎
First attempt at a full scratch build, a 32" Downeast / Lobster boat style hull in ply, to be built to my own design as a picnic / fun boat. Have acquired an MFA Torpedo 500 and a 40mm 4 blade Raboesch prop, 175 series I think. Hoping to run direct drive. Any advice on battery size voltage and Mah to get a turn of speed if required and a reasonable run time. Lipo preferably as I have a 2/3 cell charger from a previous project and limited space only in front third of hull. TX for any advice received
[Score: 5/10] 26" Billing Boats Banckert (Maasbank) Single Propellor (4 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (6v) Batteries - Comments: Build in the eithies... used thin ABS material for superstructure, wheelhouse and funnel & mast. MonopermSuper 6V for main propulsion and Monoperm 6V for added bowthruster. Has working lights and soundmodule with speaker. It's recently sold to south Germany and will be sailing on the 'KoenigsSee'.
Thanks Dave, pots not visible on the photo, or on the FLYSKY site! Saw them in a setup video.👍 Further clarification; there is no 'iA' TX. iA is a designation used by FLYSKY only for receivers. http://www.flysky-cn.com/products_list/keyword=FS-iA&method=... For the TX there is an 'i6' and an 'i6S' with touch screen etc. Stick with your 'i6' Les. Good luck 😎