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Hi Nick, we're working into this on a sort of Archimedian Spiral! But we'll get there 😉 You forgot to mention if you had the rudder servo plugged in and if it responded! If it did I assume it responded to the left stick as your ESC responded to the right stick! In that case .. Switch off the RX (boat power supply/ESC), switch off the TX. Always use this sequence to prevent ESC / motors going wild! 😡 Then ... plug the rudder servo into the channel that responds to the right stick - I assume Channel 1? Plug the ESC into Channel 2. Switch on the TX, switch on the RX (boat supply / ESC-BEC). Again, always use this switch-on sequence to prevent uncontrolled servo / motor movement! All SHOULD now work as required 😉👍 Cheers Doug 😎 @ Dave - Patience is a virtue 😉
Eureka! You have a working TX/Rx and ESC. It would appear to be responding correctly to the Tx stick movements. Next step with everything as it is now plug in the rudder servo to the rx and see if the up down stick controls the rudder. It could be any of the remaining channels on the Rx. Please let me know if this works. Dave
Hi Nick Lets just do one simple task. Plug the esc and rudder servo into your Rx. Switch on the TX and ESC. You may want to disconnect the motor and protect the wires. If the rx light is on your rudder should respond to one of the sticks. You may have to plug it into different channels on the rx moving the esc if necessary. Please let me know if this works. Dave
Hi Nick You are using your Tamco and it is working? I suggest you try a spare servo in each channel and identify which Tx sticks work which channel on the Rx. The servo should follow the stick movement in both directions. If you do not have a separate Rx battery you can use your ESC, you dont need a motor connected but do tape up the wires to prevent a short. Once you have identified the throttle output channel you can plug your esc into this channel. Plug the test servo into the rudder channel and make sure it is working Your throttle (ESC) stick does need to be in the centre position. If you are using a horizontal stick then I add the following procedure or follow my original guide. When you say rudder stick do you mean the horizontal stick movement on the tx? If so it is this stick you need to move to set the ESC. Say full right when the solid green light is on then full left when the red light is on. Stick back to centre and both red green should be solid. With the Tx switched on the bind process is automatic once you press the small button after switch on and whilst the red/green leds are flashing. Once pressed the green led should be solid until you move the stick fully when the red led lights and you move the stick in the opposite direction and return to centre when the red green lights show solid. Dave
Hi Nick Your ESC needs setting to the TX/RX. It is very important that before you switch on the Tx all the sticks and trims are at neutral and set for normal as against reverse. Switch on the Tx plug the Esc with battery connected into the Rx ESC socket. Switch on the ESC, both leds flash red green. Whilst they are flashing push the small button on the ESC. The green light should illuminate, push the relevant TX stick fully up, the red led should illuminate, pull the stick fully down and then return it to neutral. Both red and green LEDs should be lit whilst the stick is in the neutral position. Pushing the stick up fully will light the green LED (forward) fully the other way the red LED will light (reverse). The motor will run if connected. Your ESC is now set up to work with this Tx/Rx combination and will retain the setting each time you switch on. Always centre your sticks before switching on to avoid the motor starting due to a non central position. Different Tx/Rx combinations may require you to repeat the procedure. The same procedure should work for all Mtronic ESCs with a button including your two. Dave
Well i've tried every Tx/Rx that I have, the only one getting anywhere near is the Tamco 200....binds as it should but just cant get the configuration correct, soon as I switch power on the ESC is flashing red/green led before settling on red, then the motors go off by themselves without me touching the throttle, the rudders are ok though....it even goes back to that tinny sound I mentione in another thread with another boat....but it just wont sit on the stand and wait for me to touch the throttle, it goes off by itself soon as the Tx is switched on.....i've obviously got something not configured correctly....and i've tried both Viper 15 and Viper 20 ESC
Looks like this is a 3 channel set. The battery can be plugged into any port with 1,2 and 3 used for servos etc.. When binding, the top port is used for the binding plug and the battery plugged into any other port. The lights should be flashing on the rx with the bind plug connected and go solid when the Tx is in bind mode and the process has completed. Normal use with an ESC and servo is port 1 and 2. Dave
Hi Nick, Curiouser and curiouser! 🤔 Please give us individual photos of all your kit; TX, RX, ESC so we can read the labelling. Plus a general view showing everything and how you've wired it up. So far I have not found an Absima RX with the Bind port in the 4th slot! Have you tried the tests Dave and I have suggested? Results? Cheers Doug 😎
Hi Nick, If you really have the R3FS RX then what you say above is wrong! The Bind channel slot is CH3. The Battery connector is the 4th slot. See pic from the so called User Manual. I would first try to Bind the RX without the ESC, then you can forget about BEC or not 😉 For this put the binding link into Ch3 slot and the battery in the fourth slot. Then- 1. Install a charged battery in the TX and switch it off. 2. Insert the Binding Link into the Ch3 channel „BIND“ port of the receiver. 3. Connect the receiver battery to any port of the receiver, (leave the ESC out for now) the red LED starts flashing indicating that the RX is starting the tuning process.. 4. Press and hold the „BIND“ button on the transmitter, and switch it on. 5. Watch the LED on the receiver. If the LED stops flashing, the binding process is successful. This process takes up to 5 sec. 6 Release the „BIND“ button on the transmitter, take out the „BIND“ link. 7. Install the servo for testing, in CH1 or 2. 8. If the test fails, repeat 1 to 7 above. 9. If the test succeeds, remove the RX battery, plug the ESC into slot 2, rudder servo into slot 1. As attached wiring diagram, which assumes an ESC with a BEC. All should now work assuming your batteries are OK and the ESC-BEC is working! If not Go back to step 7; No ESC, RX battery in slot 4, servo in slot 1 or 2. If this works then your ESC (or at least the BEC) is duff! 🤔 Hope this does the trick, at least to find out where the snag is - if any! 😉 Viel Glück! 👍 Doug 😎
Hi Nick If your ESC has a BEC you use the throttle channel and the other channel for the rudder. The ESC can not be plugged into the battery connector as there will be no signal on that connector but all the lights will work as you are providing the correct voltage. The ESC should settle to solid red green. If green is showing this suggests the ESC is not finding a signal. I assume the batteries in the Tx are all ok and all connected in the correct way. If you have another TX/Rx you could check The ESC and Rudder servo to make sure they work OK using that set. Hopefully Doug will decipher the bind process but I would check the above first. The Viper has an on off switch and I assume this is working as you are powering everything. Dave
I have the SR2S model - also has AFHDS - automatic frequency hopping digital system....it's a 2 channel Tx, purchased off fleabay new in box. It comes with a manual in English, which says it's factory matched with the Rx
Hi Dave...the Tx/Rx is an Absima 2.4Ghz system, the handbook informs buyers that the products are matched in the factory so you only need to bind if you're mixing them with other brands. I'm using the Mtroniks Viper Marine 15 ESC....all lights appear to be on but nothing moves :-(
Hi NickW What Tx/Rx have you bought? What is the ESC? Are you sure the original motors and ESC were working? As this is a new Tx/Rx are you sure they are working? Are you sure they are actually bound? If the lights were on the Rx and ESC the battery should have worked the rudder. NiCads are not good for holding their charge and are best charged just before using. NiMh batteries are much better in this respect. Dave
Bought another boat last week, needed running gear apart from the twin motors and rear servo. So I bought a new Tx/Rx and a new ESC....I used a NiCad battery 1500....now I didn't charge the battery so it could be something as simple as that. The Rx was already bound to the Tx so all I had to do was make the connections and off we go. Nothing!!! Neith rudders nor screws moved a millimeter.....battery problem? There was enough charge to light the ESC and Rx. How long do they hold their charge roughly? Thanks.....