[Score: 8/10] 27"/900g Billings Sea King Capable of 10mph and a runtime of 25mins Twin Propellors (3 Blade 40mm) Direct Drive to a 2 x Como Drill (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (7.2v) 2Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Chinese 320a Fan cooled (10Amps) ESC - Comments: Found at a Boot Sale in a sorry state. Retained the 2 Como motors but replaced ESC with Chinese Fan Cooled 320a. Acoms AR-201 Rx, Futaba servo all linked to new old stock Acoms Techniplus Alpha 27mhz Tx. New rudder, original propshaft with new couplings. Hull painted in Hammerite Gold and Plastikote white. Retained orignal Billings decals. New stanchions and rails. Re-veneered deck and added some fancy balsa work. Plains well after contra-rotating the props.
Hi Doug, I put the Watt Meter to use and with about 16ozs of ballast, might need a bit more, had 6.77 amps at full forward with just over 40 watts . At complete stall with prop spinning she jumps to 40 amps which I guess is to be expected. She is, obviously, too fast for scale so I will need to control via the Tx. Might look for a smaller propeller.... what do you think? Thanks for your help.
Hi Dave, yes you're right. My version is marketed by Conrad here in Germany under the brand name REELY and they call it the 'HT-6'. It came with comprehensive manuals in German and good English on a mini CD-RM. When I checked on the Conrad site (they have an excellent Downloads page 😊) I found an update from 2015. I had no problems completely programming the TX unit from this manual. The only error in it was in para. 16 "press the binding button on the receiver ..." when of course it is on the TX! But at least the photo legend was correct😉 If anyone wants a copy of the PDF file PM me and I'll mail it to them. This reminds me of the discussion we had on this unit and clones / branding a few months ago! When I looked on the Turnigy site I found only the half Chinese half English gobbledygook manual 🤔 which needs a lot of interpretation. Penalty I paid for much better documentation was that Conrad price was nearly twice the Turnigy/Hobbyking price 😡 Good luck Chris, - if I were you I'd do a 'Factory Reset' and start from scratch step by step. Cheers Doug 😎 PS w.r.t. 'using what for what' My Turnigy/Reely will probably be used for most surface ships. Will probably use my Spektrum DX6 for the Catalina, and I still have the old Graupner MC-10 40MHz for the two subs where 2.4 gig don't woik 🤔. MC-10 only has two model memories so that fits! Now what can I do with the old Sanwa 35Meg job??? 30 years old and still going strong 😉
I suspect you may have to rebind the tx and Rx after the upgrade. If the monitor screen on the tx is not showing any movement when an assigned switch etc is operated then there is a fault with the tx. My set does show movement for an assigned switch so it could be the upgrade didn't complete successfully. It's possible that a reinstall will correct but you need help from someone with a Turnigy set as I believe they have modified the FlSky code for their own sets. Good luck and please keep us posted with your progress
Hi Chris. It looks like you have already posted an enquiry on the github site for 'benb0jangles' attention, let's hope you get a response to that. Meanwhile here's a YouTube video that shows a successful upgrade working with the ten channel receiver that I have bought so it does appear to work ok. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=I8ilTsO74lg Have you tried re-binding the tx to the new rx again after the update? Rob.
Hi All I do believe you need to allocate the extra channels before they will work. I don't have the Turnigy version but I believe they all use thye same basic software with different supplier splash screens. My FlySky i6 is touch screen and under the functions screen there is a setting Aux channels. Select this and the screen shows a box with the channel numbers, mine defaults to 5 but you can select any one of the 10 channels. I have an on screen button that when pressed takes you to the CH Type screen. You can then select a stick control, switch control, variable control or one of the two key controls on the back of my TX. Once selected the relevant channel will respond to whatever stick you have assigned. You can forget Y leads as you can assign one stick to two channels. Hope this helps.
its this https://hobbyking.com/en_us/orangerx-rx3s-3-axis-flight-stab... it replaces the reciver, as this is one. you turn your rates off on the tx, I set all the values on the receiver in the middle, and hey presto, it allows you to fly in "slightly" stronger winds. When you hold the plane in your hand, and turn it, as though in wind, the control surfaces move to compensate, quite clever really, like a gyro in an rc heli controlling and holding the tail👍
Hi Paul I may be able to help you out on this one i have a very large Aerokits crash tender that i purchased last year with the intention of restoring, unfortunately other projects took priority and it seems i won't be getting round to this one for quite some time. I have a sum of money invested in her so really sorry i can't do for free but a nominal fee of £50 will see some investment returned, i will also supply a TX/RX and original motor if your interested? Far to big to post so will need to be collected, if memory serves me correctly she is approx 40"+ in length and approx 8"width, i am away over the weekend but will be able to confirm and send pictures sun/mon if you are interested? Regards Steve
Following on from previous posts in the fireboat and sunderland thread.... Ok Doug, like I said nice model for the bucks, I much prefer the grey scheme to my blue/yellow, but mine was a deal so went with it, its my second. The cat has a tendancy to tip stall at lower speeds, and will not recover, there are things you can do, these are the main ones, read that link on rc groups👍 If water flying, the floats are too low, they need raising as much as you can, prob an inch, and angling upwards, or they snag on the water. If your tx allows it, dial in rudder and aileron mix, it stops the tail dropping in turns, looks better, and helps prevent the tip stall get cog correct with battery placement, pretty easy to do do range check when rx is installed, the position you will have it (not much room in the fuse) can be blinded by the battery. I have a cheap orange stabilizer one in mine, it really really helps! both ailerons need a few mills upward attitude, this helps with the tip stalling, and landing, its something to do with creating washout, too technical for me😋 the lights you see on mine are hobbyking light set, apparently the v2 you have has better lights with a plug, detrium dont usually have these there is a design fault, the rear stabiliser has a small twist, some fix this, I didnt bother I could go on, but the link is a good read as it helps with hints how to fly now you need somewhere to fly it, its fine off grass sand and water, oh, check for waterleaks prior to flying, the step under the fuse is a weak spot, change the cheap metal pushrods for nylon or plastic when you can, they rust real easy, there are easy mods to stop the rods flexing, particularly on the elevator, I fitted a second rod so I have one either side of the elevator, and dial in rates, you dont need much throw with this big lazy bird👍
Hi Ballast The unit needs to be mounted vertically inside or under the smoke stack, with access to allow you to top up the smoke fluid into the unit. Current draw is about 2-3 amps so you will either need a relay/microswitch driven by a servo or electronic switch capable of switching 3 amps to switch it on or off. You will need a spare channel on your Rx to operate, preferably one controlled by a switch on the tx. You can use the main battery but it will reduce your running time because of the high current. You will need a 6v unit if you wish to use your existing battery.