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>> Home > Tags > tx

tx
tx
Trimaran USV by analyst Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 16 hours ago
@figtree7nts - yeah as much as possible i will minimize the weight. i think only the weight of a 3hp motor will be the primary consideration and the rest(electronics) will be minimal. speaking of electronics, can you share a simple layout for the needed electronics on this one? I'm a total noob and until now I'm still at lost on what specific items to buy aside from the motor. prop and shaft will be fabricated locally. I already have Rx from the Taranis Tx. All i want for now is for her to run wirelessly for about 100 meters for trials before i consider putting telemetry and cameras. I'm confused of; what size of servos should i use? How many servos? What size and type of battery? Do i need an external antenna? if yes, what type? Hope to have some recommendations from the members. a layout would be much appreciated. thanks in advance

cabin cruiser by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 26 days ago
Hi I avoided mentioning LiPo as you are handing the completed model to possibly a novice. NiMh would be my choice and depending on the budget I would get the highest amp and voltage you can manage. There may be a min voltage requirement depending on the ESC you choose. She will also need a charger for the NiMh and possibly the Tx/Rx if no BEC on the ESC. Sounds like you will achieve your goal and I am sure the lady concerned will be well pleased. Dave

from the Philippines by analyst Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 29 days ago
@figtree7nts - I'm planning to build a USV type of boat with general specs; *catamaran type hull (not yet sure of the dimensions but based on my own research maybe L- 58", beam - 20" for each hull) *long range (20-30kms) *cruise speed (3-4 km/h) on board components *FPV cameras (at least 2) *motors (not sure what type but I'm leaning more on electric than gas) *GPS and antennas for long range capability. i want to start with the basics first and probably will include add-ons in navigation in the future. i just want to have a reliable running platform at first. it will be used in salt water environment. I'm thinking of a twin hull to make it more stable out in the waters. It will not be deployed in rough weather but i think it would be better to have a twin hull for stability. I already have a Taranis Tx and Rx which i used for simulators before. thanks for link on the website. indeed they have lots of stuffs. my only concern is they are based in England so i will pay for multiple export fees until it reaches the Philippines(sad reality) From England they will have it delivered in the US(virtual address) then from the US to my country through a local courier. I cannot let the store deliver it directly to the Philippines because the Customs here will surely rain me with custom's taxes and it will require me to personally pick up the items. but i'll give it a try first and see the difference. it will be my first time to order on UK based websites.

RN Outpost Munich by RNinMunich Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
This is not actually a club, just me! A recently retired Naval Comms engineer who has lived here for 31 years and occasionally sails his 1:72 136cm HMS Hotspur H class destroyer and/or 1:72 107cm Type IIA U26 on the lake in the Ostpark (East Park) near me in east Munich. It's pretty big with an island in the middle so it's figure 8 shaped. In summer there is a powerful fountain as well, so caution if you don't suddenly want to find you are piloting a 'Flying Boat' 😉 Site is very convenient, right next to the Biergarten 👍 Tx one hand, beer (or wine?) in the other. In retirement I'm looking forward to refitting my fleet; 1 destroyer, 1 U Boat, 1 tug ca 1:50 almost serviceable, 1 inherited Kentish fishing boat - restoration project!; 1 Pocket Battleship (Graf Spee 145cm) and 1 cruiser (Belfast 125cm) fitting out with electronics. Both 1:128. Ark Royal, Hood and Bismark at 1:350 are in the planning stages. Happy modelling Doug RNinMunich😎 If you are ever in Munich ....

Robbe `St Germain` fishing boat by agoodboater Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
for sale is my French fishing boat `St Germain` built from a Robbe kit (which you can`t get now) 32"long and a beam of 12" it a nice size at 1/20 scale lots of detail working lights and radar operated from your radio she in top condition for sailing complete with 12v 7mAh battery receiver battery and could inc specktrum RX, you will need you own TX ,looks great in or out the water , and sails really well, ****NOW SOLD*******

Handed props by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Simple answer is yes, you need to wire the motors so the props both rotate in the correct direction. I usually use a wetted finger behind (stern) the prop to feel the wash of air when rotating in the forward direction. if you can feel it from the front (bow) side it needs the wires swapping on that motor. I suggest you also check that the tx channel is set in the normal as against reverse setting before you start as some ESCs run slower in the reverse direction. Hope this helps and if you find my post helpful please tick the like box as it helps others find the post Dave

Pro Boat Blackjack 29 Fast Electric RTR - Boaty by andycoburn Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
I race IC Multi boats in UK and European competitions. Nearly all the Endurance class (FSR-V) drivers use stick transmitters as the boats require precise sharp turning for the M shape course. However, in both Offshore and Hydro (FSR-H/O) the wheel tx is much more in evidence. Possibly due to the slower response required driving an oval course and the poorer turning of the surface drive boats. In M class (Fast electric), most of the top drivers use wheel tx nowadays. Again a simple triangle course.

GLORIOUS cygnus gm 33 by skiboo Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
some more done all electrics complete lights etc motor paired uprx tx leds all 12volt pre wired

Mersey Ferry "Mersey" by 4clubs Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
1/48 scale (38 inches long) Mersey Ferry "MERSEY" from early 1900's. Fully working model ready to sail c/w 2.4GHZ radio/Tx. Well detailed scratch built from original photos. Buyer collects from Maghull Liverpool Merseyside UK. £500 ono

Mersey ferry Royal Daffodil (ex Overchurch) by 4clubs Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
SOLD SOLD

Mersey ferry Rose for sale by 4clubs Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
NOW SOLD

Mersey Ferry RC workingModel by 4clubs Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Now Sold SOLD

Soldering suppressors to motor by georgeo5664 Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
mike yes suppressors are required it helps to cut down the interference from the tx 1 capacitor goes from + to casing 1 capacitor goes from - to casing and last one goes from the + to the - pins on the motor hope this helps

Radio kit & batteries by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
My decision to include functional lighting and a rotating searchlight in addition to the usual throttle and rudder functions meant that I had to revise my initial choice of radio kit from a two channel system to at least a four channel system. My final choice was actually a Turnigy TGY-i6 six channel system from Hobbyking. The reviews I read during my research were very complimentary and it certainly fitted within my budget, I actually view it as extraordinary value for money at £44 for the TX/RX combination, my last R/C system was a MacGregor single channel 'clunk-click' system for £20 back in 1970-something when that sum was my weeks wage! 😯 The programming options are predominantly for aircraft and helicopter modellers but that's not a problem as there's all the basic programmable options in the menus that I need. I think I ordered the wrong 'type' of transmitter as I want the throttle on the left with a centre spring return and the rudder on the right stick, a quick strip down and butchers at the internals has shown that I can transpose the stick/pot/gimbal assemblies very easily to suit my preference and swap their functions in the menu options. The standard of construction is remarkably good for such a low cost piece of technology, speaking as someone who has seen and worked on the insides of innumerable bits of broadcast TV kit. The transmitter has four assignable switches, I'll use two for the lighting circuits, and one of the two pots will be ideal for my rotating searchlight. The rudder servo is a Futaba S3003 standard servo with plastic gears, I think anything more would be overkill. I also bought a couple of Turnigy R/C switches to control the lighting circuits and NiMh battery packs for the receiver and lighting supplies as I didn't want to feed these from the main batteries. I cobbled it all together on the bench for a quick test and it all works just as expected including running up the motor through the ESC, I have a programming card for that and I will need to set up the ESC before it goes in the water. The main battery packs are two 9.6v 5000mAh NiMh packs by Vapextech which are wired in series, they sit on a bearers on either side of the propshaft aft of the motor, the receiver battery pack sits between them and all will be strapped down with cable ties.

Plug in battery by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Hi I see you are located over the pond so will not be infringing the UK frequency control re 35Mhz. I am assuming by old you are referring to the older three pin female sockets with the battery and servos using a three pin male connector? You can use modern kit with the Rx but will need a conversion lead to match the sockets on the tx to the modern plugs. Trying to remember my flying days equipment I believe the battery socket was marked as such. The connections polarity wise were the same with black negative, red positive and white signal wire. The black wire was always nearest the case bottom edge with the red wire between the black and white wire. The battery connector did not have a connection to the signal wire so if a servo does not work in a channel it could be that is the battery connector socket. I hope this helps but please ask if you need further help Dave