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>> Home > Tags > voltage

voltage
battery voltage
voltage
Motor size advice by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi Maorkullen, kv means rpm per volt applied. Thus the 1100kv motor does 1100rpm / Volt OFF LOAD! 3639: These 4 digit numbers generally mean diameter and length; i.e. 36mm diameter, 39mm length. xS means the number of cells, of nominal voltage 3.7V for LiPos. Thus 3S is a 3 cell battery of nominal 11.1V. 25C is a theoretical measure of maximum short term current the battery can deliver in terms of a multiple of it's nominal capacity in Amp hours. Thus in this case 5.8 x 25A = 137.5A. But not for long!! and afterwards the battery would most likely be wrecked and useless.🤔 So it's really only a marketing gimmick not to be taken very seriously. Hope this unravels some of the mystery, cheers Doug 😎

Radio in a yacht by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
most 6V sail winches will work fine on 4.8 volts. if you NEED 6V then things get way more interesting. Check to see what voltage your receiver can handle ( some have built in BECs some not). in the event your radio needs nominal 5V ( 4.8) and sail winch 6V then you need a 6V power supply and a BEC to power the receiver. However some sail winches have a built in BEC so you can power your radio via the winch. ( BEC= battery eliminator circuit in effect a voltage regulator )

Radio in a yacht by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi all, Whilst I can make almost anything, I have absolutely no idea how to install modern R/C gear in a model, much less a yacht. I have an Orange Rx which has 6 channels for some reason, but I only need 2. BTW, when did functions become channels? I grew up with proportional being 2 channels per function. Anyway, that's a 2.4 doodah. I have a GWS sail winch a drum jobbie. I also have a few different servos for the rudder, but I don't know what voltage they are. I will stuff 4 pen cells in a holder and therefore get 4.8 volts, is that right? This will all fit a treat on a removable piece of ply which I can secure with a slider at one end and a wingnut at tother. Said ply with all gear will slide through the main companionway with that item removed. So, how do I know which servos will work for steering? Will they work with a 2.4 Gg set? Or must I buy new? Will the Rx be OK sited near the battery pack and servos? And how the hell does one "bind" the Tx to the Rx? I've had the Tx for 3 years and it ain't yet out of its box. It's a Spektrum Dx5e. I'm using NiMhs in the battery pack as I don't understand LiPos and will only be using the yacht occasionally. And I can charge NiMhs with a wall charger. I have fancy metallic blue thing that does everything, but the Chenglish instructions defeated me, so it hasn't been out of its box either. (Get the impression I ain't big on working models, folks?) Any info/instructions/encouragement gratefully recieved. And anything helpful about rigging the damned thing under the deck is welcome too! No idea where to start there. I have very limited space through companionways and deck lights which are all removable, but smallish, if evenly spaced. Cheers, Martin

LiPo batteries by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Hi Peter, check the capacity as well as the voltage. Around 20 to 40% is normal for storage and when they are delivered new. Cheers Doug 😎

47" Fireboat power question by rolfman2000 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Thanks Ron. I always though the I'v times the voltage gave the prop revs. As my G-60 is only a 500kv, then my 4s at 14volts should be sufficient, but a 3s might be a bit short at 11.1v. But I will give the Graupner 50mm hydro a try, which at the least is a place to start from. Once again, thanks for the advice Ron. Happy sailing, Dave W😊

LiPo batteries by Kipper Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 25 days ago
Reduce the voltage to a holding charge for that four weeks. Better safe than sorry & better for the longevity of your battery.

LiPo batteries by stormin Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 25 days ago
Good morning all, Many thanks Ron for your information. Can I ask:- say you only using your batteries every four weeks or so, should we leave them with full charge or should we reduce voltage to holding charge for that four weeks?. I understand this could be a "how long is a piece of string" question. Norman.

LiPo batteries by ronrees Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 25 days ago
Hi all, Lithium-Ion and Li-Po batteries do not take kindly to being stored long term fully charged. When they are new they will do it but after 2 to 3 years of intermittant use, can start to swell a bit and that is where the dangers start. When you give these cells the final run of the season and they show a charge in the the 3.3 to 3.5 (or so) volts per cell then they can be stored relatively safely. (This is called a holding or factory charge) Re start them with a balanced charge before you next use them. Do not constantly fast charge them as thi could induce swelling of the pack earlier. The old Ammo box is a good idea, any strong metal box will do but store them where it does not get very hot or very cold and ideally not in the house. Lipo cells are accepted as hand luggage by most airlines and a holding charge is recommended when flying, so remember to take a small 12v DC balance charger or 'Intelligent' charger with you to other countries, you will always be sure of a power supply, like a car battery even where the mains voltage is different. Small black plug-in cell monitors are readily available from places like Component shop and are a good guide to cell condition. One is these is quite essential as we use these cells more and more. Cheers, hope this helps. Ron.

RAF Fireboat (vintage) Aero by CB90 Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
[Score: 9/10] 34"/2500g RAF Fireboat (vintage) Aero Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 40mins Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type 45mm) Direct Drive to a Bullet 30 (2 Blade X Type) Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 5Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through 24v 15A Electronize (15Amps) ESC - Comments: Ebay job £50 Old Vintage Aero kit 34in Fire boat needing a lot of attention, with delaminating plywood, old glue, old glow-plug engine mounts with electric conversion, and after removing a metal shield I discover an vintage (1970,s Ripmax Bullet 30 Motor the dogs bollocks of electric racing of its time capable of running 24v at 15A. 300W for a brushed motor. Started by revamp rear pit by lowering servo and rudder and building sub deck, storage lockers, tow hook and ladders. Remount the motor with an aluminium mount with custom screw positions. Block windows with 1mm ply. Foam front half of hull to make unsinkable. Make centre decking area. Repair and build up on cabin roofs and walls to centre deck. Rewire add ESC and servo. Remove broken and unusable fittings such as large vents, some missing unable to match again. Problems with old gloss paint crazing the modern spay paints. Build some fittings eg Water cannons, life belts, Build new battery trays, Painting the boat now in progress as of 20/04/2018 Boat has be roughly painted but is not finished, as fittings are now required, added a RC system an gave it a test run. the performance was adequate on 14.4v and great on 17.2v see latter pictures on the pond. the motor did get hot after about half hour of use. the motor is rated at 24v but I think a smaller prop will be required for that voltage. Excellent performance from a brushed motor. Added some stickers and I have now added a 12v fan and ventilation between cabins as the motor required some cooling and was in a sealed compartment.

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Thanks all for the responses. Donnieboy - have thought out the plumbing, which is simplified by using a cooling pump. See future episodes! Doug - appreciate the concern regarding the red ESC wires. Have been trying to understand the rationale behind that theory. If all ESCs share a common input voltage, i.e. from one battery, what would the connection of multiple red wires do? Can understand if there were several unique power sources, but that is not the case here. Perhaps with your electronics background you can explain. Colmar - Used the angle on the scale drawing. If it were good enough for Vosper, should be good enough for me! Think it close to 7 degrees anyway. Think short shafts with oilers should help. Have heard of bushings running dry and seizing with these high speed motors. The initial props are scale versions of the originals. Rather suspect they will not prove to be ideal. Have purchased some 2 blade racing style props for a future test. They have a much coarser pitch and are designed for high speed motors. Intend to use plastic props initially as they are cheap enough to experiment with. Perhaps others have a comments on the cavitation question?. Incidentally, this is my first high speed boat too, but there is much of information on both this web site and Model Boat Mayhem for guidance. Posting questions always generates useful information. Look widely though at all types of fast models, MTBs, RAF launches, E Boats etc. - it has all been done before!

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Once the rudder, propeller and shafts were installed, the position of the motors could be established. A light aluminium bracket to hold all three was fabricated and bonded to the hull. Due to the high speed capability of the brushless motors, particular attention was paid to alignment. Also kept to the shortest prop. shafts that could be fitted to avoid whipping. Although the motor type might change, whatever is best will require a sound electrical installation as the current requirements for each brushless motor could reach 50 Amps. Wired each motor and ESC separately with its own dedicated fuse to give the maximum system protection. There is an extra fuse section allocated for auxiliary circuits, such as a cooling water pump and lights. Will try the original planned layout of 3 x 2835 motors with 30mm propellers and a 2S Li-Po battery first. Am hoping the reduced voltage will also make these motors more tractable. For the test program the three ESCs will be each controlled from an individual Rx channel. Once the final layout is determined, a more sophisticated and flexible control system can be installed. To minimize ballast, particularly around the stern, the battery will be housed as far into the bow as possible. After the test runs the final battery type, size and location can be established. To assess performance, hope to try both 2 and 3S Li-Po batteries. Planning to reduce heat build up by fitting cooling water jackets to the motors, these are easiest to instal at this stage so the wiring or mounts are not disturbed in the future. Have not decided the layout for the water circuit yet, but this easily can be added later. All that is needed now is the ice to melt off our local lakes so tests can commence.

LiPo batteries by MouldBuilder Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Please can I get some advice on LiPo batteries. I intend to buy a 3300-5000mAh battery to run an offshore power boat model. I will be taking the battery with me to Hungary to use on my local river which I have found is ok as hand luggage properly protected from short circuit. My problem is that at present, I only go there three time a year so the battery would remain unused for 4 months at a time. If I leave the battery with a safety charge, will it last for four months unused or will it fall below the critical voltage. If it is felt that it will not hold the charge, I will have to carry it with me forward and back. Thanks.😊

Graupner ranzow refitting by kmbcsecretary Admiral   Posted: 2 months ago
here we have some pics of the electrics as requested the first pic is of the mtronic 650 motors for main drive. second pic is of the twin rudder control. the third pic is of the water proof voltage dropper and connections for 5v power supply to some of the aux, Ron

Main Cabin Doors! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
BTW: a 3V supply will only work for one LED, or several in parallel which complicates the wiring. Each LED in series drops from around 1.8 to 3.3V depending on the type. Typical average is 2V and 20mA current, so for your 3 LED running lights you would need a - 150Ohm resistor!!! Yes 'minus' 150 Ohm.😲 If you find one let me know and DON'T TELL DONALD😉 What voltage is the main power source, i.e. drive battery? Doug Posts crossed 😉 Just wondered if Brooklyn might have had a stern light set into the stern gunwale. Have seen that on tugs in Hamburg.

Main Cabin Doors! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Ed, send me a sketch of the running light and deck light circuits; i.e. how many circuits with how many lights (LEDS) in each, and the voltage they should run off, and I'll work out the dropping resistor values for you.👍 Your doors remind me of the ones I made for my destroyer, but mine are only about 5 cents tall (ca 2cm) at 1/72. Stanchions are 15mm, with brass wire supports soldered on to every second one, all the way round a 1.35m deck plus gun decks 😲 Didn't even want to SEE brass wire for months after that! Cheers Doug 😎