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>> Home > Tags > voltage

voltage
battery voltage
voltage
Rubber stopper wick & element by Joe727 Admiral   Posted: 22 hours ago
In the previous post in the video, note that a black rubber stopper is inserted into a brass tube soldered to the tin container. Starting with the element again, select proper length of heater wire by applying voltage to lengths as show previous. Crimped wire to one end. Next photo shows a rubber stopper, I use my drill press to drill to straight holes to allow the voltage supply wire to pass through it. Then I put together a wick with a brass rod (1/16") to provide support and to secure it to the stopper. Brass rod with wick is pushed thru the stopper, drill a pilot hole for the brass rod centered in the stopper. See photos, the supply wires will come thru the stopper at each side of the wick. Put one wire through the stopper, then I wrapped the heating element around the wick. This is tricky and took several attempts to get it done cleanly. The supply wire for the end is then fed back through the stopper. This is a weak part of the design as it must run back to the stopper without touching the heater element. It does work, but I will try to improve on this. This entire assembly fits into the tin can and is the correct length to just submerge the bottom portion of the wick and not the wires. I forgot to do a sketch showing a section through this, but will try tomorrow. Joe

Model Smoker Build by Joe727 Admiral   Posted: 8 days ago
Hello, Yesterday, I showed a Model Smoker that I built, I have had requests to share details. This blog will walk you through what I did. Please note that this was built from ideas gathered from the web, I did not invent this. Also, anything that has voltage and anything that creates heat can be a hazard, I am not responsible for any damage caused. Again, just sharing information. First, I researched the web and saw how others made a smoker, then I just wanted to cobble together one mainly from parts I have. You can see this on a variety of searches and videos. First, Collected parts required. 1. Thrift store hair dryer 2. Wick lamp or Tiki torch, or similar wick 3. Wire crimps 4. 18 GA wire 5. Box, enclosure, container 6. 5v -12v fan, direction pushes air into box. 7. Foil, had copper sheet of aluminum foil 8. Adhesive, used CA 9. Mint tin or other Since I did not photograph the original, I will put together some build steps and sketches. More to come, see photos for parts used. Joe

Modified Heng Long smoker unit by jbkiwi Commander   Posted: 16 days ago
This is a first try at a simpler quieter smoke unit. I used the smoker box/element off the Heng Long tank/car smoker unit with a 40x40 5v fan (the fan being voltage controlled by a 5v UBEC and the lot being run by a 2s Lipo (with a y splitter for the fan UBEC and the element using JST leads. Doesn't smoke that well as I had broken then repaired the element previously, but the other one I have smokes a lot better, and has a better type of element (possibly a newer version) Some photos etc on the smoker discussion. Unit is almost silent (the noise you hear is the camera and outside noise, as the window was open)

Smoke generator by jbkiwi Commander   Posted: 16 days ago
Have just made a prototype of a fan forced smoker which seems to be working well (despite breaking the heater coil by moving it while hot, - had it apart, broke wire, screw and washer repair, not quite as hot) I bought a couple of Heng Long smokers (for R/C tanks or cars) to play with, for $10 NZ each(or 5.3 Euros to you Northerners give or take a yen) from Bangood and just bought another from Ebay. There seem to be 2 different models, as one has a long coil with a lamp wick draped over it, which is sitting in the oil reservoir, the other has a small coil inside a piece of heat resistant woven tubing (as you might find insulating toaster/heater wiring etc) which acts as a wick and that also sits in cotton wool in the reservoir, (this seems to be the better of the two) Tip - don't fill the tank right up, only enough to soak the cotton, element should be just out of the oil. The wick loads the element. The better model seems to have a black top to the tank (also maybe either brown or black tank) and the other has a brown top and dirty brown tank. As with most of this stuff you won't know till you get it what it's going to be. What I did was remove the tank and cut off the pump tube just in front of the screw lugs (see black line in photo) then fitted the tank, and a 40x40x10 5v ESC fan (voltage controlled by a UBEC set to 5v on the jumpers) into a plastic electronics utility box from Jaycar (our local electronics and hobby store). I made up a double JST lead for the 2s 1800Mah Lipo and fired it up (using baby oil). It's pretty much silent and smokes well once it gets warmed up, ( starts smoking in about 5 seconds) You could control it (on/off volume) by either a remote on/off switch or perhaps a small cheap 10A brushed ESC. I would leave the fan running and control the element to avoid burning the element. The original pump tank inlet hole seems ok as is (approx 1.5mm) but you could enlarge it very slightly to get a better flow if you could find a better oil. At the electronics store they have proper smoke machine oil for $20 NZ per litre so I may have a look at that. The reason I went for the fan idea was that I found in std pump form, if I immersed a tube from the tank in water, it sucked water back into the tank. I was hoping it would pump smoke out of my HSL exhausts at water level alongside the cooling water but it would need a very light non return valve to do this. The fan seems to pump the smoke through 2mm ID silicone tube ok, so tubing of similar ID to the OD of the tank outlets should work well. These pumps in original form work pretty well for the price, and are cheap enough to keep a few for spare elements, the only thing is they are a bit noisy but in an 'engine sounding' way, (might add to the effect on a tug or work-boat though) What you have left after this mod is a very handy little geared motor with an eccentric output wheel which could be used for winches, radar and whirly bits of any description (see pic of motor leftover and original) To avoid burnout, these should be run on no more than a 2s (around 7.5v-(suggest 8v max with fan running) The other tank is going to work a lot better than this one but I'm not making a tug, just want a bit of exhaust smoke on start-up etc to go with the 2 sound units. Very cheap to make (around $25 NZ with pump, box, fan and UBEC all through Ebay, Aliexpress and Bangood (and local electronics store) If you wanted to run an ESC to control the smoke and you have no channels left to control it proportionally, you can always try using a second receiver bound to your TX, (if your TX will allow it,) power it and a brushed ESC (wired to the element) as normal and use the throttle channel to plug in your smoke control. This should work if you want more smoke as you accelerate or if you are using only 1 stick on a 2 stick TX you could use your 'elevator' stick pushed up (or a toggle switch if available) to start/stop the smoke (through the brushed ESC setup) . This setup weighs 100g (10g more than std) The quest for lots of smoke continues Will try to upload vid later and update progress.

All hooked up, nowt happens... by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 26 days ago
Hi All I use the Hobbyking car ESC's HK-45A, HK-60A SL and HK-100A which all use the same program card(HK PROG-CARD). I use the same setup for all my boat, only changing the battery setting for the 2s, 3S and 4S Lipo. 1 Cutoff Voltage for 3S=10.2 and 4S=13.6 2 Start Power Percent=5% 3 Advance Timing=4 4 Run Mode=2 5 Brake Force=1 6 Drag Brake Force=1 7 Neutral Range=1 8 Initial Brake Force=1 9 Reverse Force=1 It works for me. Canabus

Internal wiring & bottom skins by ukengineman Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Rob, the Police Launch is coming along nicely. I see that you have long leads from the battery to the ESC. The general rule is that these leads should be kept as short as possible to minimize voltage spikes caused by the fast switching currents and the inductance of the leads. Brushless ESC's have large capacitors, often visible at the end to absorb the transients. You may well get away with it but the life of the ESC could be reduced. Hope your Xmas goes well, Alan

Proximity (Hall effect) sensor wiring by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
I do not know how much knowledge of electronics your friend has but I need to point out that a hall effect sensor is not like a relay. While they do act like a switch ( sort of) they need to be powered and have a hall effect voltage to switch. This would mean in the use intended there would be a current drain on the sensor and if the power supply ( battery?) voltage fell to far it would not function. The effect you want could be replaced by a reed relay cheap and simple to use. However reed relays can only pass low currents so would need to be cascaded with a higher rated relay before switching the main battery supply on and off. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-Pcs-2-5X14mm-3-Pin-4W-Glass-Re... these reed relays have both normally open and normally closed contacts and at a couple of quid for 10 worth buying so he can experiment.

aeronaut classic by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Sandgrounder, Good stuff from Canabus BUT- If you are going to parallel connect batteries there are some safety rules to observe to prevent potential fires on board - ESPECIALLY IF USING TWO LiPos!! The two batteries must be identical types with the same capacity and state of charge. Otherwise the one with higher voltage will try to charge the other. This can result in high currents which represent a high fire risk - most especially with LiPo Power 😡 To prevent this you need a pair of high current blocking diodes between the batteries - fast Schottky diodes. If you are electronically minded this is easy to do yourself. If not, Component Shop market an Action Electronics module to do the job. Spec attached as PDF. Link to purchase is below You can buy the board here (No I don't have shares in the company but have used several A.E. modules and they are well made good quality👍) https://www.componentshop.co.uk/p103-parallel-power-board.ht... I think 15 quid is a good price to protect the rest of your investment 😉 Have fun, cheers, Doug 😎

aeronaut classic by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Sandgrounder There are a number of speed 400's with voltage range from 4.8 to 7.2 volts. The revs range is between 16,400 to 22,000 rpm. So 28mm brushless like a Prop Drive V2 2836- 1800kv(shaft 3.175mm) on a 3S Lipo battery with give you 19,980 rpm. ESC 45Amp. Prop 30-32mm 2 blade. If it's tight of battery space Hobbyking have small ones you can parallel together like the Turnigy 3S 1500mah 25C (73 x 33 x 27 mm). Regards Canabus

Smoke generator by jbkiwi Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
Been thinking how I could build a compact sealed electric smoke generator with a pump to push the smoke through the exhausts, along with the cooling water on my HSL. Are the model train smokers not big enough for your purposes. You could just copy one of those and enlarge it perhaps. From what I remember from my train days they were not too complicated. How about an upside down ic glow plug with a variable voltage regulator in the bottom of a tube with a low temp oil ? You could possibly use a small brushed ESC for the regulator and come up with a controlled drip feed replenishing system. Just seen a site SMOKE EL in Germany which makes smokers for ic and electric planes but they look expensive and complicated,- work well though,-vids on site.

fuse holder by teejay Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi all thank you all for advice and comments , I have had a good look at all the suggestion and decided to go for the 3m scotch suitcase type and I will let you know if they are ok. now I have a question for all when choosing motors should you chose a voltage rating equal to the of the battery or higher then the voltage of the battery

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by jbkiwi Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
Don't know what happened to my last post but I'll try again. This link, https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1148637-wire-... may be a useful read and explain what I am on about (rough idea in pic). I don't think too many people are aware of some of the problems which can be caused by altering Batt to ESC wiring. I don't think its too much of a problem at lower voltages but see what you think. Not sure if you have a throttle curve facility on your new TX but if it has, using that you can create a gentle start, ramping up steadily, no matter how fast you push the stick up. You can ram the stick up but it will only follow the curve you set. eg pic showing random curve (you can make this any shape you want to control any function) there are usually a number of curves you can set and save for throttle, rudder - anything you want to control automatically. Not sure about your TX but my 9xr even has a feature whereby you can slow the servo action down (I use that on my Piper Super Cub flaps which come down slowly in 2 stages (2 pos switch) and go up faster. Your new TX probably has a lot of these features and once you find how to use them it will open up a whole new world of fun. Another example of what you can do with these computer radios is, on one of my models I am using 'flapperons' to slow it for landing and as the ailerons come down the elevator is mixed to move up to compensate to stop the plane nosing down. It's pretty much endless what you can do. I'm still exploring after 8 yrs of computer radio use. I remember a guy somewhere talking about the flashing lights on his plane and saying it wasn't the lights on a flasher unit it was the TX telling them to flash.

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Rowen, Re Relays. The so called 'back emf' (reverse voltage) is caused when you switch off the relay. The magnetic field collapses and the energy is releases as a voltage spike with opposite polarity to the 'pull in' voltage. Since you are using an electronic switch this spike could damage the output transistor of the switch.😡 The diode is connected across the relay coil as a blocking diode, i.e. back to front wrt the operating voltage, and absorbs the spike. Each and any relay coil needs one! This is a manifestation of the induction effect which makes E-motors and generators work 😉 Capacitors: Parallel!! An idea with the Y lead👍 You'll lose the 'tank' steering assistance function though.😲 Happy experimenting, cheers, Doug 😎 PS I use the same alarms, also good for testing batteries on the bench, and ESCs from the same Quicrun range (in my Sea Scout for example), reliable and simple to set up. Even simpler if you buy the little programming card for them. Only a few bucks and well worth it. I've been wondering if it's the response of your ESCs which causes your 'modulation' problem! Remind me; which ESCs are you using? PPS have a look here for an explanation of the suppression (flyback) diode and how to connect it 😊 https://www.wikiwand.com/en/Flyback_diode

fuse holder by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Yep!👍 https://www.componentshop.co.uk/p95-indicator-fuse-boards-si... Spec attached as pdf. Strictly speaking the LED simply indicates the polarity of the voltage applied to it. Which way the motor turns depends on how you wired it. But it does help with setting up the wiring and response to TX throttle stick.😉 Easy enough to make though, as I did for my Sea Scout. See pic of 'Engine Room'. Or the Taycol field motor converter boards I've made for Martin and Colin. Two fuses are fitted; one for the field coil, one for the armature. Last two pics. Resettable fuses (contact breakers) are also available to fit these holders. Cheers, Doug 😎

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by jbkiwi Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
Rowen, here are a couple of things that may be of use to you (and others). The battery alarm will save you worrying about running out of steam as they can be set to beep at varying voltages to warn you of low battery, just put one on each batt balance lead and when one goes off (when an individual cell drops below the set voltage) it means start heading back. These can be picked up on Ebay for a few dollars. I use them on my planes as well and are audable from around 100m (these twin horns are the best) Secondly, re your ESC switches, these electronic switches (AliExpress) are great for this sort of thing (as long as you have enough aux switches on TX ) You can link them with a Y cable to work together or use them independantly for anything, (lights, pumps etc, - they can be operated by TX rotary switches as well) The ESC and 2000kv motor (HK) are the ones I am using in my ASR model and will work smoothly down to a crawl, the purple 1980 kv seems to have superseded these but I think they will be as good. The props are from Ali Express and are resin and available in L and R hand, are only a few bucks and perform perfectly while looking quite scale(ish). I painted them with an acrylic bronze which seems to have stayed on pretty well. Model weighs 2.8kg and will run at more than 10mph flat out with this set-up (using the 26mm L+R) props) which is silly speed and that's with 2x 2s 2200mah lipos (which will last till you get sick of it and still have 60% left) I was just looking at your Daman set-up and noticed the wiring method from the batts to the ESCs. You might want to make your batt to ESC connections direct to your ESCs (as per original ESC lead length)as your capacitors may get a thrashing (spikes) due to the extra length/ resistance you have there. There is a general rule that you don't lengthen the batt to ESC wiring without adding a 220mf capacitor of same voltage as the ESC for every 4"of extra wire length (ESC to motor - not so much). Might want to check this out in case you fry your ESCs You probably have thought of this but thought I'd mention it, 'just in case' Might help with your modulation as well. Have chucked in a vid of the HSL manouvering (first trials so wasn't perfect) and also the MTB (brushed) which I have just converted to a twin system (was twin but single Electronize unit) plus a sound unit. You may know that you can use as many RECs (bound to the same TX) for various purposes on the same boat (have run 2 boats together from the same TX) Might get you round the mixed brushless/ brushed problem with a bit of thought. Have you thought of changing your old HK silver 6DF TX to twin throttles, it's a piece of cake(as is the TGY 6x), just remove the aileron/rudder centering spring and make a friction plate as per throttle stick, and use the elevator channel as your other throttle. Set your ESCs and you can then use a twin system giving you perfect control. Saves a lot of hassle.