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>> Home > Tags > voltage

battery voltage
Dumas 1203 Coast Guard Lifeboat (RNLI Waveney conversion) by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi I have the Billings version as does a fellow club modeller. Initially I used two 300 motors with a 12v 1.3amp battery placed in the rear cabin space. Good for about 4 mins then died. I now use two brushless 28xx size 30 amp ESC and an 11.1v Lipo 2.1 amp. My friend has a similar set up. Gives about 30 mins and exceptional speed. The lipo sits where the SLA was. I can understand your concerns about the lack of warning on your Mtronic but you can source battery alarms that will emit a loud noise when the cell voltage gets below the set voltage. Providing you are paying attention you will hear and bring the boat home. The running time will be similar on each occasion so you could also use a stop watch (on your phone). I have tried NiMhs but they lack the power and are nearly as heavy as the SLA.

Too Powerful Brushless ? by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Hi Doug Brushless motors may be similar to AC motors in construction but they are powered by pulsed sequential DC so there is no AC involved. I do agree Watt metres are the best way to make sure the motor, battery and ESC max values are never exceeded. I agree the spec sheets are very useful but are specific to the type of motor and original supplier, and many are for companies no longer trading. I do sometimes have difficulty in interpreting some of the info supplied but the nominal working voltage, max power are usually OK. The stall current is useful to decide on the wire and fuse size as well as choosing a suitable ESC. At the end of the day if the set up is getting too hot you are probably working over the specs and if water cooling doesn't help you need to adjust the prop and / or battery voltage.

Too Powerful Brushless ? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
"The max current is the Max Watts divided by the Battery Voltage." Hmmm! Dave, I=P/V works fine for DC and static resistances but it gets much more complex in a dynamic system like an AC motor, which is all a Brushless is. Don't want to get into rms and power factor and co here so I agree the wattmeter is the way to go to find out what's really happening. Normally (at least here, not so sure with China!!) the max power output is quoted at nominal voltage and max efficiency. If you (can!) trace the motors back to the original manufacturer they publish performance graphs showing efficiency, power vs current and volts. But who does that? Except nuts like me😉 According to the DC formula the ECO 600 would draw 131A at 11 Volts or 97A at nominal 14.8V. The real 'Black art' is then to work out what power you want/need for how much thrust, acceleration and top speed for a given boat and hull type🤔 Best way is to ask those who've 'Been there, done that'. That's why I appreciated very much Canabus' advice when I was looking for a brushless for my Sea Scout upgrade👍 Happy sailing all - Whatever pushes your boat! Doug

Too Powerful Brushless ? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Hi Canabus, I think that's the same pdf I found👍 Snag is - you can't upload pdf's here🤔 You have to do what I did; Snip-It into jpeg pics and upload them. BTW: attached are the dimension drawings to go with the spec. table. Graham: table shows that the ECOs all have 6mm output shafts! RE apparent discrepancy between powers of the 400 and 600; same applies to the 200 and 300 so I don't think they are typos! I assumed it has something to do with the construction/magnets (type and strength) or even timing? Hope this helps untangle things a little😉 Happy Non-brushing all, cheers Doug😎 PS Dave: it is normal engineering practice to publish data measured at the quoted Nominal supply voltage - unless otherwise specified with the respective data.

Too Powerful Brushless ? by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Hi Graham and Haig The max current is the Max Watts divided by the Battery Voltage. Most motors reach their max efficiency at much lower value, typically about 77%. You need to take care when interpreting the data especially when the description has been translated from a foreign language. The Eco range of motors were developed for model boats and in general were high tork, low revving and low current. They were also designed to work at lower voltages so that would explain the lower Wattage. I would only use the nominal voltage, Kv and max Watts figures. The amps appears to be the stall current but I am guessing. Also we don't know the voltage at which the stall current was measured. Providing you don't exceed the rated voltage and wattage your motor should be OK. I suspect running much above half the rated wattage may require some water cooling. There are many Wattmeters available that will measure the wattage, amps etc at reasonable prices and if you connect in line with your battery and ESC whilst holding the model in the water you will have a good indication of the max current / watts at full bore. This should be ideally about half the max rating (watts & amps) for both the motor and ESC. Reducing the prop size will reduce the load.

Too Powerful Brushless ? by canabus Admiral   Posted: 15 days ago
Hi All I am using Hobbyking 3639-1100 and 3648-1450kv motors in that size boats(Sea Commander, Precedent Huntsman and SG&K Gentleman's Runabout). 60 Amp ESC with either 3 or 4S Lipo batteries. Props 2 blade 40mm 1.4 or 1.6 pitch. The motors are a straight change over and the only change to the ESC is the low voltage setting for the 3S and 4S batteries. Canabus

LiPo Battery Monitor by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Hi Bill Doug has shown a battery checker and alarm. You can get battery checkers see If you are going down the LiPo route I suggest you make sure the ESC you buy has a built in circuit which reduces the current should the battery volts drop below the set voltage (3.3v is common). In my experience the alarms although they work well are not loud enough to be heard, if your model is not near, and they do not cut or reduce the current, leaving your battery at risk of over discharging. Good luck with your model

Too Powerful Brushless ? by pmdent Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 17 days ago
Traderman - whilst I am not an expert ( I am currently trying to decide what brushless combo to fit to a 34" RAF Crash tender) - clearly your motor is turing your prop shaft way to fast. With your motor spec of 3180 kV and a 14.7 V Lipo - your motor will be trying to turn your shaft at a speed of somewhere in the order of 45,000 RPM !! Firstly your prop shaft may not be rated for anything like this speed and secondly any slight mis alignment will likely be generating significant vibration - enough to cause your problem- have you noticed any? As to motor power - the motor may not be too powerful - but certainly dropping to a lower kV motor say 1100 and reducing the Lipo voltage to a 11 or even 7 volt system might be the right answer......but as I am finding its all a bit suck it and see... Peter

LiPo Battery Monitor by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
Hi Both, so do I saga, and here's what they look like folks!😉 To answer your actual question Andy; you can only 'set up' the alarm voltage; range 2.7 to 3.8V depending on Lixx type, or OFF. As saga says they are preset to 3.3V. Setting up as such is done by repeatedly pressing the little (and I MEAN itsy bitsy teeny weeny😉!) button at the opposite end from the pins. With the display face up and the pins facing you ground (black) is on the far left; as in attached pics of the device in action. If I'm just doing a quick bench check I set the alarm to OFF to stop the ear splitting PEEEP 😡 For use in the boat I leave it on set at 3.3V for LiPos. Hope this helps, cheers Doug 😎

LiPo Battery Monitor by saga32 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 18 days ago
Hi Andy, I use a little combined Voltage and Alarm like this from HobbyKing style='background-color:yellow;'>voltage-checker-2s-8s.html Or you will find them on eBay from China if you don't mind waiting There is usually information and instructions on the back and the alarm is usually set for 3.3v per cell when it arrives. A useful reminder when sailing, I would rely on my ESC settings when using a brushless setup. Wes.

LiPo Battery Monitor by canabus Admiral   Posted: 20 days ago
Hi Andy I use the Hobbyking Low Voltage Alarm(black) part no. Alarm-Voltage. These monitor the total voltage and each cell voltage with a digital read out. The connector from the battery, the black wire is to the left looking at the front. Banggood have one without the black which does the same job.

LiPo Battery Monitor by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
Hi Andy There are many variations on the market but they all work basically the same way. Most modern Lipo ( and all Lithium based batteries) come with a small white plug with multiple contacts as well as the main power plug, usually connected to some heavy duty wires. The plug is connected to the battery negative at one end and then each pin is connected to the negative on the next battery etc. This allows the individual cell voltages to be measured. The monitors do this automatically when connected to the plug the correct way, if it doesn't light up it's probably the wrong way round. In my experience the monitor connector is not marked so you may need to try different combinations to find the correct way. You will not damage anything if you get it wrong. When correctly connected the monitor will display each cell voltage then the total voltage. This usually repeats after a few secs until you disconnect If you have a charger they have a selection of different size sockets for the number of pins and can only be inserted the correct way. You will need the manual that came with the charger to select the correct screen to display the values, but most can be found if you Google. Glad to hear you have a monitor, LiPos can be damaged if not kept balanced, or discharged below 3v ( some are higher, usually the high power versions) Hope his helps

46" Firefloat What Motor/Battery by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 30 days ago
Hi John, you might now be scratching your head, and wishing you have not asked the original question! This seems to be a common issue, as the boating community is light years behind the other disciplines, rc cars, planes helis and so on, its probably due to the facts general boating doesnt really need the later generation technology, the average boater age is probably higher than the other disciplines so budgeting might be an issue, and there is less younger blood in the clubs to explain the lipo/brushless etc. We see posts with a load of numbers, specs, warnings etc, its enough to put people off. Im a big fan of brushless/lipo/ 2.4 etc, been doing it for years, its cheaper and more efficient (once you have the basics) but for the average guy, who just wants to spend an easy afternoon at the local lake gently cruising around, brushed motors, nimhs batteries, even lead acid, will do the job👍 Your 4 foot ply boat, once painted, with fittings, will be heavy, I know, I own one. Those 600 motors are not big enough, they are better suited to the smaller 3 foot boat, then, pushing them with a 6v lead acid, just cant do it. The battery will be screaming HELP!! I started 15 years back exactly the same, 600 motor, 6v battery, massive 50mm prop, I knew no better and took advise from people who didnt know what they were talking about😡, remember those gold hi tech speed controllers!! I had one, it melted, literally melted on the first use😭 Get 700 size motors, they will need to be water cooled, as mentioned by jarvo, the nominal voltage or below isnt good enough, power them at the max voltage. Brushed means you can use one apropriate esc, look out for electronize (are they still in existance?) or mtroniks, preferably use nimhs batteries over lead acid with a high mah. If after all this you want to venture into lipos and brushless motors, go to a club, spot a boat that is similar in size to yours, if you like the performance talk to the owner and gain experience and knowledge that way, it will save money, lost time and a lot of disappointment, I have been there so feel your pain. I say I would never go back to brushed motors and none lipo batteries, but I always want silly speed, not runtime, after 15 minutes Ive had enough and am bored. Rambling over! My 4 foot boat is twin brushless and uses 4 lipo 5000mah cells per motor, it will do 25mph for 15 mins, then I go home😁 Message is, you can get a "reasonable" performance from brushed motors, with the correct batteries, right props, but weight is the enemy. Looks lie you are at Biddulph, get onto Dave M a moderator on here, and arrange to go over to see the crewe and district boys on one of their sailing days, take your boat with you, they will help👍

M Sonic microprocessor ESC. by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Colin You have an Msonic micropro MAXFET Marine Eco unit. May or may not be the same specs as the 3 Marine ECO. The set up instructions are fairly standard and will be the same but I would be wary about using 12v as the early units, like yours, were often low voltage. If you give Mtronics a call on Monday they will be able to advise you of the specs.

M Sonic microprocessor ESC. by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
I have just seen an Msonic advertised on Ebay. Its a tempo11 version and designed for model cars. It is an early Mtronik and possibly has a max voltage of 7.2 to 8.4 volts and probably 10 amps (my guess). As its maybe for a car the reverse may just be a brake. If you plug it into a 7.2 battery or less, connect a motor and plug the ESC into a rx you should be able to test. Check that the rx plug is wired neg (black) pos (red) signal (white) incase it was being used with a differently wired rx ie the red then black then white. If so you will need to swop over the red and black wires. The small button is used to set up the ESC once you get it going.