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>> Home > Tags > voltage

voltage
battery voltage
voltage
DAMEN STAN 4207 by RHBaker Admiral   Posted: 6 days ago
First open water test went well, but with two caveats: 1) Would like to increase performance somewhat, closer to her looks. The initial tests of the unfinished hull showed adequate performance. As the detail and superstructure have been added, it has deteriorated. The increased weight of over 2 lbs has increased draft and wetted area, thus drag. 2) The bow is slightly low. Decided the best way to improve performance would be to increase the NiMh battery output from 7.2 to 9.6 volts. Thus added two more cells to the forward “C” cell holder. Also increased the LED resistor capacity and added a voltage reducer to avoid burning out the lights and bow thruster at this new voltage. By examining the drawings and the model layout decided to tackle the second by moving the forward battery carrier from just in front of, to just behind, the centre of gravity. Fortunately the Damen drawings show the C of G location. This increased the stern draught by about 1/4”, with the bow similarly decreased. Also reduced the stern ballast to about 3 oz. A further open water test showed an nice improvement in speed with the model now sitting on the waterline. Running time exceeds an hour, she also looks trim and purposeful. Think this is about as fast as an 9.6 NiMh installation will operate. Adding more cells will increase weight, adding to the draught. Am toying with trying a LI-PO installation in the future. This will provide increased voltage with a weight reduction, but rather costly though. Have decided to enjoy the model as she currently is; there is plenty to look at with the working fire hydrant, the bow thruster, the work and navigation lights. Will concentrate on launching and making the RIB operate, have some ideas on how to do this and will report in due course.

Futaba Attack 2ER by Hugh Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 9 days ago
I have installed a Futaba Attack 2ER receiver plus 2 servos in my fireboat. Both lights are 'on' on the transmitter, and there is the correct voltage coming from the battery supply to the receiver. When I plug in the servo ,the servo moves a bit. However, the transmitter has no effect on the servos. I have checked and rechecked the connections. The aerial was cut, but I have joined the parts together temporarily. Can anyone give me any advice? Cheers Hughie

Fogger 24v supply by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Just repaired a blown fogger unit, reversed battery. Used a Component Shop LM2557 switch mode converter unit running from 12v (max) and giving 1 amp at 24v, plenty for the fogger that requires 300Ma. I may add a small heatsink if the chip gets hot as the fogger has no off switch whilst on the water. There is a simple multiturn pot adjustment to set the required voltage. Fogger now working full pelt and as good as new.

12 volt motors to esc,s by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
PPS re 'Voltage booster'! Can't follow the thinking🤔 If you're sticking in 24V and want 12V out a simple 12V regulator (3 pin device (looks like a power transistor) would do the job, but mind the current rating!! But why?--->KISS !! 😎

12 volt motors to esc,s by sonar Admiral   Posted: 9 days ago
The esc stuff is all working now. So i have just hooked up a LM2577 Voltage Booster input 3.5 - 30V, output up to 30V adjustable The idea is to have 24 volts battery input and the output stays at 12 volts. Having just said that it has come from action electronics and does not work .....Again. So I will have to stick with 12 volts .... so far as electronize esc,s go there heavy duty and also used so I have been told on the robots used in robot wars..

Couplings by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
OK. You can do that just for reversing, but no speed control without the ESC. Also relay contacts have an irritating habit of arcing and burning when used for high currents. More sparks! Your choice but I find the bridge solution is more elegant, more compact and probably more reliable. You'll need a second channel to trigger the relay, could get exciting if you're on full ahead at the time! Or do you intend to use the negative swing of the ESC output to switch it? Don't forget the diode across the relay coil to kill the induced voltage! Let us know what you decide and how it goes. I know which way I would go. Cheers 😎

Taycol Test 2 with reverse :-)) by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Glad you got it working. The secret is to change the polarity to just one set of coils otherwise you reverse both magnetic fields. The bridge rectifier achieves this. Current draw is as you say well within spec. Pic 5 says it all really. Those spikes are nearly full voltage and will defo be a problem for any ESC that doesn't have fast protection diodes. They are acting as spark transmitters and explain why early TV sets were so vulnerable to interference. Modern Rx are much more sensitive and ESC's will react to this high pulse, so it is not surprising they suffer from interference if no suppression is in place Hope you do an update when you have completed the wiring Dave

Muddys Tarpon 8 by muddy Lieutenant   Posted: 14 days ago
Hello Wayne, thanks for that, did try a couple of alternate props, with not to much noticeable difference, as i sit and ponder here, my other comment was " It's the newness", the boat is approx 36 x 9 so perhaps a little large for a 386, i was also trying to keep the voltage low at about 6 volts, less battery weight and all that. The refit is ready to go, and water awaits, Many thanks Muddy....

Taycol Pt 3. New Brushes Pt1 by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Hi Dave, Martin, from eyeballing 4BA looks about right. A 5.5mm nut spinner just about fits! Meccano is a good tip, I've got an ancient set kicking around somewhere. I'll go exploring in the cellar. If I don't report back within a week please send search party! 😉 Maybe she growls and protests more at higher voltages, at the moment it's just a quiet hum. Haven't pushed my luck yet! Cheers Doug. 😎 Good luck with Proxxon Dave. I was wondering how you ended up with 120V coils!? Bought in USA ??

Taycol Pt 3. New Brushes Pt1 by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
Hi Martin, yep I'm rather chuffed! 😊 Not so much noise or sparking as I remember 😁 Done some tests, all OFF LOAD at the moment of course. Current drain hovers around 250 to 300mA at any voltage up to 4V haven't gone any further yet, she stalls at around 0.5V, restart alone at 0.6V. she's chuntering along at 3V, stage 2, at the moment but shows no signs of distress. The beast just threw oil on to me goggles 😡 Stall current at higher voltages 0.95A. I'd set the PSU to limit at 2A, just in case! Have made video but have 'keine Lust' to go via You Tube!! I still intend to fit sintered bearings tho. Soon as your bits arrive. Ta much 👍 Only one snag: I've managed to lose one of the brass nuts securing the end frames 😭 Where the H--l do I get imperial brass nuts over here??? Cheers Doug 😎

Bluebird K7 by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
I agree 👍 I will use my 30V 5A variable supply as I propose to use it for various foams. Voltcraft or BaseTech do a decent one which ain't too expensive. Great for all sorts of tests and experiments cos you can set the max current you don't want to exceed. Constant voltage or constant current operation 😊 Cheers 😎

Bluebird K7 by Midlife306 Commander   Posted: 21 days ago
Hot wire foam cutter: I started off by watching just about every video on YouTube on the subject. I then bought a few meters of 0.25mm NiChrome wire. At first I thought I'd just need a vertical bench top cutter. An unwanted shelf was liberated from a kitchen unit to use as the base, a couple of 2x1's were screwed underneath to give clearance for the wire connection. A piece of MDF was used for the upper arm. To give some adjustment underneath a block of wood with a screw in one end for the wire to wrap around was screwed to the base in just one position so the block could pivot. I drilled a clearance hole in the end of the upper arm for a long bolt & put a small slot in the end of the bolt to wrap the wire around, a washer and spring were used to give the wire some tension. When the wire heats up it expands so you need something to maintain the tension. Wrap the NiChrome wire on the screw underneath, put it through a hole cunningly placed in line in the base & up to the slot in the bolt in the upper arm, compressing the spring at the same time. Now that's all sorted get 2 pieces of normal wire, attach one to the screw underneath & one to the bolt on top. This is the bit where I found conflicting information on YouTube, people used all sorts of different things to power their cutters, batteries, pc power supplies & resistors, model railway power supplies, laptop chargers etc etc, everyone recommend different voltages & amperages. Luckily my Lipo charger can be sued as a power supply so I started messing with volt/amp settings, I didn't want the wire to glow red as that's too hot, I ended up using 10 volts & 2 amps, it works a treat. Unfortunately this cutter does have its limitations, throat depth etc. I decided I needed a hand held cutter, going off what I'd learned from the bench cutter this was a doddle. 2 pieces of 7mm steel bar 300mm long, 2mm hole in each end. 1 piece of 30mm square pine for the handle, 8mm hole through each end. Smack bars through holes in handle, get 2 pieces of normal wire, attach one to each hole at handle end, I just twisted them on & taped everything over. Now here's the trick with the other end, when you attach the NiChrome wire make sure you squeeze the bars together a little to give the tension, attach the other ends of the wires to the power supply & away you go. Like any tool I guess you get better with practice, lol Cheers Wayne

Aerokit Sea Scout 'Jessica' Renovation by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
Evening Dave, many thanks for the response 😊I wasn't sure how my 'style' would come over! Martin thinks you created a monster 😲 monster fun for all I hope, maybe a breath of fresh air ?? "Tune in next week!" Many German forums are very stiff also nehm ich nicht teil (so I don't take part!). But my brand of humour always stood me in good stead during contract negotiations over the years. Often not so easy to convince the Admiral to spend his hard won millions on my system design, not to mention the yards who want to maximise their own margin. British humour went a long way to breaking the ice with navies and yards around the world. The Koreans and Chinese were the most difficult to bring round, after that Algeria, Oman and UAE were child's play. The navies of Chile, Ecuador and especially Brazil were; very professional (and good dinner parties)👍, interesting! 🤔, and a barrel of laughs 👍😉 in that order! Canada was good, but bl...y cold! 😡 French & Italian yards had great lunches 👍but small budgets (thumb down!)! But seriously though folks; you're right of course, the ancient caps are now useless and I have much better ones now, plus ferrite rings and inductors to choose from. Re voltage; the Taycol specs also give values for 12V running! I can use the Spektrum TX programming to limit the max volts to 12, also, when the Target is fully renovated I will first test it using my regulated PSU to find our where the limits are. Non-destructive I hope. Theoretically the motor will only take what it wants, never mind what the LiPo can provide if asked. I will also use my new Watt-meter; a tip I got here from you guys. 👍 Many thanks for that. Re sparks; thought I might try to see the energy spectrum on my 1G/S digital scope, most energy should be in the VLF-HF band and tail off considerably above VHF so an indication may be possible. Might be able to rig up some sort of rev counter using it's frequency meter?? Worth a try 😉 After several years concentrating on gallivanting round the world I have some catching up to do! You guys have sure accelerated that. Muchas gracias y muito obrigado! I've learned a lot the last 3 months and I think I can give a lot back. Looking forward to it 😎 Haven't used the 35Meg set for years, found it this week while looking for something else, as usual. Maybe I'll resurrect it for the flying boat?? It was replaced long ago with the Graupner MC-10. Latest set is the Spektrum DX6. Still learning how to modify or cancel all the fixed-wing and heli pre-programming I don't need. 🤔 @ John; thanks for the friendly response 👍 There was an ESC in her with the Decaperm while Jessie was using her, massive alu box thing with a big ol' 2055 sitting in a heat sink on top! Did several years good service in HMS Hotspur and still works, I think! Glad to revive some hopefully happy memories. Idea for a new topic perhaps- "Against the stream - Recycling the hard earned technologies of our youth!" 😉 Happy modelling, or better "Sailing" 😎 Gute nacht aus München 😉 PPS @ Dave (and / or other administrators): WE NEED MORE EMOTICONS OR EMOJIS AS YOU CALL THEM! Check your dumb-phones!

HMS Erebus by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Gdaynorm (Why does that name make me think 'strine'?) 😉 Yes you are absolutely right Duratrax seem to specialise in cars & buggies. The Sprint always seems to appear in the context of the Evader buggy series, also it is listed as discontinued on the Duratrax site! http://www.duratrax.com/downloads/discontinued.html Nothing lasts for ever!! Maybe it is not happy driving two motors? What is the total current drawn? Since it seems almost certainly to be an overheating problem is there sufficient cooling air flow through the boat? Recycled 5V DC PC processor fans can be useful to help here. Since you can test motors by feeding directly I assume they must be brushed. Are your batteries, LiPo or NiMH? In both cases the Sprint has a low voltage cut-out. 3.3V for LiPo, 5.0 V for NiMH. Maybe the cut-out circuit has a hysteresis effect. This means that if the battery recovers slightly when taken off load, and cools?, the boat runs again - until the cut-out point (thermal or volts) is reached again! I would expect the interval between cut outs to reduce slightly with each cycle until the battery is totally depleted. This effect is also noticeable with sealed lead acid accumulators. I would be tempted to bite the bullet and buy 2 ESCs designed for marine use (e.g Graupner Navy VR series or Viper Marine or US/Canada equivalents) and a 'Y' cable to run both in parallel from one RX port. Then each ESC only has to handle half the load. And ensure sufficient cooling air flow, or even water cooling!? How big and heavy is the boat, what type are the motors and what size & type are the props? Cheers from Munich, Doug 😎

Battery problems by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
My knowledge of "elecy" stuff is pretty limited, but I see that the model boat world (excluding racing types) is in the dark ages compared to planes, helis, cars etc when it comes to motors, batteries etc We have to reply a lot on testing, fiddling etc when it comes to gettingn a fast electric set up, in a scale heavy old wood boat😁 as there isnt much info out there. I tried testing over a long time, with one boat inparticular, and was lucky enough to have te use of eagle tree data logging, so could measure watts, amps, gps speed, voltage drop and so on, and analyse the resultsd on graphs etc back home on the pc. Its amazing to see that sometime s the fastest set up isnt always the best when you compare run time, amp draw, heat, voltage draw etc, and what "looks fast" sometimes isnt as fast as you thought😊 This boat for example, 6kg, ply construction will do 25mph, after that torque roll is kicking in, and it want to roll over. I tested props over a long time, using cheap plastic "X" props, and with the results was then able to get a more efficient and visually pleasing brass cleaver 3 blade one. Ranging from 50mm to 55mm the amp draw went from 45a to 90a using same batteries!, and teh highest amp draw prop didnt produce the fastest speed, all interesting stuff. The boat is similar to the OP perkassa. I also went from direct drive, to a geared drive, and can change the characteristics of the boat using different cheap gears, eg., small lake, dont need top speed, so change to acceleration, big lake, lets give up acceleration and have top speed, and so on👍