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>> Home > Tags > voltage

voltage
battery voltage
voltage
Longer run time by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Your question does not have simple answers have you used a watt meter to see the current your motor is drawing at full throttle? With any installation its a good idea to do that test since its a good way to match motor and prop. LiPo batteries have a better current delivery than lead acid BUT you do need to be careful about end voltages so as not to damage the battery. Many ESC have a voltage cut off built in to protect LiPo batteries it may be your hitting that limit with your lead acid battery. The simplest solution to your problem is to look at the Amp/hour rating of your existing battery and get something with a higher rating. Going LiPo can give a much higher rating with a LOT less weight. The downside being the need for a special charger and the need to be careful about storage and end point voltages. As to putting 2 batteries in series to get a higher voltage yes you can BUT increasing the voltage to a brushless motor requires you match the prop to the new voltage running on the existing prop will probably cook the motor. How hot is your brushless running now? Outrunners generally can swing a bigger prop than inrunners.

Longer run time by randhbarker Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
I am using 1 12v lead acid battery in my sea queen with a brushless motor. It’s only giving me about 15 minutes on the water. The boat will get up and go for a few minutes but after that I can have the throttle wide open but the speed has gone. Can I link more than 1 battery together to give me a greater voltage which I believe a brushless motor can cope with. If so which batteries should I use and should I wire in series or parallel? I await your thoughts Thanks

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
😁 "Who's on first base?" "Yes." "What"? "No, What's on second." "Who?" "No, What. Who's on first." "!****!*!***!" 😡 BTW: thanks for the input voltage 👍 Is that the same value where you have marked '+' on the sketch? Cheers, Doug 😎 c

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Hi Pete, many thanks, good work 👍 Just one question; What was the battery voltage? GF about to drag me out to the Shopping Mall 🤔 so more this evening. Cheers, Doug 😎

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 13 days ago
Hey Doug! I’ve finally finished the long-awaited sketch! I’m sorry it took me so long but I had to work under very adverse conditions. Nearly every time I sat down to work on it one of my wife’s friends would drop in for a visit & there isn’t enough light in the closet to sketch by. Anyway, the sketch is attached. I verified that all four of the boat’s exterior lights are LEDs. The pilot house interior light is a light bulb as I’ve said before. You asked before if it’d be possible to replace the bulb with an LED. It can be done so I noted the bulb’s supply voltage on the sketch, too. Both wires running to the bulb are white (labelled “WHT” on the sketch). The Aft Deck light LEDs look crystal-clear when they’re turned off, but when they’re turned on they light up yellow! I didn’t expect that because the Port & Starboard Sidelight LEDs are red & green respectively when they’re turned off. The Search Light LED is clear when it’s off & white when it’s on. I hope the sketch is helpful. As I said in my last post I couldn’t get the voltage readings on the SMD resistor inputs, but I wrote their 3-digit numbers & my stab at their values in my last post, too. I hope the nomenclature I used on the sketch is somewhat like what you’re used to. Being a mechanical guy I never did any electrical or electronics drawings so I just took a stab at it for the sketch. If you have questions or need anything else just ask. Thanks again, Pete

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 16 days ago
Hi, Doug: I managed to measure voltages at the outputs for each LED as well as the the bulb in the pilot house. However, I couldn’t measure voltages on the “input” of the five LED resistors. From what I found by searching on line these resistors are the “SMD” (Surface Mounted Device) type. They’re about the size of two amoebas & I just couldn’t see them well enough. It would be easier to give a gnat a colonoscopy than it would be to get the probe of my multimeter in the right spots. But in the enlarged photos I took of those resistors I could actually read the three digit numbers printed on each one. One of them is numbered “221” & the other four are numbered “331”. I’ll defer to your expertise if I’m wrong, but by using a nifty calculator that I found on line I figured out that “221” = 220 ohms +/-5% & “331” = 330 ohms +/-5%. Are these values correct? Will you be able to proceed by using the published resistor values in the absence of the resistor “input” voltages that I’m not able to measure? I sure hope so. Please let me know if the resistor data I found is correct or if I’m way off. My sketch is almost done & I’ll get it to you shortly. Thanks very much.

Forum Topic Search? by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 16 days ago
Thank you, sir. My wife volunteered me to fix an R/C fire truck for neighbor’s grandkids. It’s a mechanical problem so it was right up my street (another British expression). I’ve got it fixed & nearly reassembled already, then it’s on to voltage measurements & making a sketch to put them on.

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Mornin' John (aka Sleepless in Unknown, UK, 😉) That's exactly the jig I found recently for the batch of XT connectors I bought when I finally went LiPo (better than NUTS!). Ref. your 'wall wart' (horrible expression, must have come from our 'colonial brothers. Sorry Ed!)- If the resistor burnt out I'd be very surprised if the rectifier wasn't also damaged. Check the voltage with your multimeter in both AC and DC ranges and let me know the results. Also give me the data of the 'wart'. Input voltage, W or VA rating, output voltage and current. Should all be embossed on the thing somewhere. Cheers, Doug 😎

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
You guys might like to have one of these.I can really recommend it-----https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aluminum-jig-Soldering-Aid-Statio... My tool was from Bang Good and cheaper but I can't find it again now.👍 Just come across some Lithium Thional Chloride batteries 3.6 v per cell.Doug I have a wall wart that has a burnt out resistor in the final output pos line.Voltage across the terminals 15 v. I need to drop the voltage to 7..v or a bit over to charge a 4 pack of AA Nimh cells any idea what value resistor I should replace The burnt one with as the value bands were burnt off. Someone shorted it out during a charge. That is the only damage. I don't want to lash it for the sake of a resistor if I can avoid it. I hope you can work it out . I'm guessing 20 Ohms but just a guess🤔🤔 Quite small so maybe 1/4 or 1/2 watt.

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Hi Martin, No need to get yer knickers in a twist 😲 With the NiMh just stick 'em on your iMax every 2 months and run 'em through a discharge / charge cycle. Otherwise in three months they'll probably be Dodo-like 🤔 NiMh batts lose about 1% charge per day. So, assuming fully charged to start with, they will die in about three months. They should not be discharged below 1.0V per cell or they most likely will not recover and will not take a charge anymore. Your TX LiPo you have no control over so just rely on the charger in the TX. Over winter just switch it on every month or so and check if the red LED lights. If it does stick it on charge until the green LED lights again. Your other LiPo you can give a Storage charge with the iMax. Check it with your Capacity Tester now and again. Storage charge will probably indicate 30 to 50%. If it's less than 30% put it on a Storage charge again. Voltage per cell should never be allowed to go below 3.0V MINIMUM. Start a Battery Diary!! Cheers, Doug 😎 Back to hull sanding for me 😡 P'ing down again today so no outdoor spraying🤔 Just discovered construction fault in my fish cutter😲 First hull planks were set flush with the keel bottom instead of leaving about 1/4" of keel showing 😭 To saw or not to saw ? That is the question!!

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Mornin' Martin, You don't need to cycle LiPos !!! Play 'silly buggers' with it and you might bugger it! 😡 Just use it normally and charge it when the red lamp appears on the TX front indicating low voltage. Keep an eye on it and unplug the USB charger lead as soon as the LED turns to green. You could also use your Capacity Tester to check the LiPo status, IF it will connect to it. Sounds like it has a very non-standard plug? Pic? The cycling is for NiMH batts to minimise the memory effect. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Just checked the manual and saw the battery connector! You can forget connecting the battery to any other charger or the Tester 🤔

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
Hi, looks like you've already got the Tamiya connector on that one lead. Just put the 4mm plug on the red lead and you're good to go! If you only recently bought the NiMh batts they can't be dead yet. Half dead maybe 😁 Re charging: 1 what voltage and capacity is the battery? 2 what current does the charger supply? Look at the info on a label or embossed on the back. Cheers, Doug 😎

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
Evenin' Martin, OK- 1. Your NiMhs have Tamiya plugs. 2. Correct charge lead for those would be the one in your last pic. BUT; it puzzles me that it seems to have one 4mm plug, OK, and one 4mm socket?? If that IS the case; Why? Should have two plugs to go in the charger. Change it for one of your new 4mm plugs. 3. You can charge the LiPo with the lead second from right. The 'bricks' are 'T' or 'XT' connectors.They look like XT60. Common on LiPos. Select LiPo and 'Auto' on the charger and it will do the rest. Don't forget to plug in the little white Balancer plug so the charger knows what it is charging and can balance the cells. Guess the next question will be:- 'But the white plug is too big to fit the charger'! If so you need an adaptor! See pic. The adaptor is in the middle; 'XH Adaptor'. Plugs on batteries are XH, sockets on chargers the smaller EH. It's a conspiracy to force us to buy adaptor boards or cables 😡 However, if the LiPo hasn't been used or charged for years I don't hold out much hope for it 🤔 At the bottom of my pic you can see one of my capacity / cell voltage testers. Glad the FlySky package works. What does a Luddite learn from that? Buy TX and RX together as a so called 'Combo' and they come ready bound, saving a lot of F'ing and Blinding 😉 Was very surprised you bought a car pistol grip with trigger throttle. Might be OK for throttle (cars are usually 'digitally driven'; i.e. Flat Out or Stop!) But I wonder how you'll get on with that on a sail winch 😲 Bon chance mon ami 👍 Cheers, Doug 😎

Deck Hardware Painted! by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
I recently bought these switches for only 13p. Gone up since I bought them. Excellent little switches for low voltage/amperage applications.Regards using grease in switches. The basic idea is sound but not the use of grease.The stuff to use is petroleum jelly,i.e. VASELINE. The best way to apply it is to melt it and either dip the switch into the liquid or use something like the applicator straw from a WD 40 can or a fine tipped brush to run the liquid into the gap & round the gap while sliding the switch to and throw.🤔 Vaseline does not obstruct electricity but grease can which is why Vaseline is used on battery terminals and not grease.The best way to do it is apply it to the terminal before putting on the cable terminal then smear some over the outside and tighten Sorry to digress but I believe in the correct info where I can.👍

Spektrum, new, useless... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
Thanks, Kevin, but I'd considered that and made sure it was a fully charged Rx. pack (new) and Tx. is also new Duracells for maximum voltage. Martin