Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info
Guest
Login Below
Join Us On Social Media!
   
Get The Model Boats App!
Apple App Store
Android app on Google Play


Help Support This Website
£
or enter custom amount

(Non Contributor)

Help support this free
website and donate.



£285 a year is needed to keep the website and apps online. Please consider donating £5 or more to help towards these fees.
All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

Many thanks for your kind support.

Model Boats Website Team


Donation History
January 2019: 14 people
December 2018: 6 people
November 2018: 11 people
October 2018: 9 people
September 2018: 13 people
August 2018: 5 people
July 2018: 8 people
June 2018: 8 people
May 2018: 7 people
April 2018: 19 people


Unique Visitors This Month

Website Members

Terms and Conditions
Privacy Policy
Advertising
Contact


Model Boats Website
Active Users (42)
Login or Register
To Remove This Ad

Login or Register
To Remove This Ad
>> Home > Tags > wooden boat

wooden boat
93 fireboat
94 fireboat
air boat
alpine tug boat
boat building
boat club
boat house
boat museum
boat show
boat yard
boating
cornwall model boats
fast patrol boat
fire boat
fireboat
fireboat funday
fishing boat
flying boats
jet boat
lesro pilot boat
lifeboat
lobster boat
lobster fishing boat
midwest lobster boat
model boat club
model boat mag
model boat show
model boats
model boats mag
model boats magazine
paddle boat
paddle boats
patrol boat
pilot boat
police boat
portland model power boat association
power boat
proboat ragazza
pt boat
racing boat
rc boat
sailboat
san pedro push boat
seaport workboat
shrimp boat
smaller boats
speedboat
steam boat
swift boat vietnam
torpedo boat
onboard tech
wooden
wooden model
wooden boat
Vintage Model Works 46" RAF Crash Tender by Boat660 Petty Officer   Posted: 10 hours ago
Hi Rob, I briefly had a conversation with you last weekend at AP. This is a general question on the build blog, (by the way your build and finish is exceptional) that I have read several time to familiarise myself on the build detail and would welcome your advise. I'm itching to purchase the fire tender. I'm a confident model builder, however I have never built a wooden boat before, and note your comments on the gunwhale stringer, and skins which is holding me back from the purchase.🤔 Russell

Cabin detail part 3 (instrument panels) by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
After the Christmas break its back to the cabin to finish some of the instrument detail. You may recall I detailed the cockpit with some ply constructions to represent the general layout; I also intend to detail the compass, throttle controls, steering wheel, panel lighting, and instrument panel. The instrument panel was copied and scaled from various drawing and pictures and I came up with a three-panel unit where panels 1 & 3 are identical as they are for the two-engine managements system the centre panel deals with electrical things. I intend to make the panel out of 1.5 mm aluminium cut to size on the guillotine I then attached this to a hardwood block with some strong double sided tape this will be more than strong enough to hold the piece for the drilling/light milling operation. I worked out the hole positions using an absolute datum (same as CNC work, if only I was still working) This does take some time using my rather old milling machine making sure any backlash is taken out during the 28 linear movements. I used various sizes of centre drills to produce the holes as they give not only accurate size but also perfectly round holes on thin material and the only ones that needed to be a particular size (6mm dial holes) the others are for switches and LEDs which can all be a 3 mm location hole. Each hole was drilled and then chamfered to simulate a bezel on the dials. Finally, I milled a shallow groove (2mm x 0.3 deep) to simulate the separate panels. I have copied a number of different marine dials from the internet and using PowerPoint I aligned in a complete group and then printed and laminated them, this will be placed behind the aluminium plate using double-sided tape. Having fixed the dials in place I drilled through the holes where LEDSs will fit. The LEDs will be shortened and polished so they are flat to the face; these are then stuck in place. Next, I made all the switches from brass bar with a fine brass pin glued across its face to simulate the lever. These were painted gloss black and the centre pin picked out in red, they were then glued into the 3 mm location hole. The black knobs/pull switches were turned out of black Perspex and polished; they were then glued into the location holes. The whole instrument panel is then pinned on to the wooden framework which has been left in natural wood finish (ply) as it looks like the original boat was just a varnished ply finish.

Friday's Child Fairey Huntsman 31 by BOATSHED Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Hi Brianaro, many thanks for that. i am about to go and check that out. As well as my old 70's wooden Precedent Huntsman, I also have an MFA Spearfish still in the box not touched yet. I had one back in the 80's with an Irvine 61 in it and it was a great fun boat. I did plan to do the same again with it but with the constant banning of using IC engines on the ponds around area's in the UK I suppose it will end up brushless. I know they are if not faster then IC now but the cost battery wise, now being retired the funds aren't as easily found now. The sad part is I still have 2 new SC 91's, 1 new SC 61 and a Irvine 120 all still new, never been run. I think there might also be an Irvine 61 that has no box. As well as a Zenoah 26c all pimped up in purple only run in ready to be put in a boat. Shed full of both engines and boats, some boats still new in the boxes still waiting to be built. Hopefully I will get to build them before I pop me clogs.

Outboard Motors by BigChris Seaman   Posted: 1 month ago
I have acquired an old 50cm wooden model boat which requires a vintage style electric outboard motor. I am finding sourcing a motor very difficult. I would welcome advice. I am willing to take a second hand motor if anyone has one.

Scratch built yacht. by ChrisG Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
I am thinking of building a new sailing yacht from plans which I have yet to acquire. I have 8 A4 pages of drawings of a Goth-USOM from Frank Russell 2014, not sure where I got them from and if they are worthy of the time and effort. The size is about right at 1000mm length and about 1500mm deck to masthead. I have had dealings with Nylet in the past and am sure they would be helpful for rigging, sails etc. I plan to plank build the hull onto wooden bulkheads. Although I have built several model boat hulls using this method before I wonder if I could enlist some help or recommendations from any other members of this group ie choice of plans, how to do it books. Many thanks Chris G

Brixham trawler IBEX by cenbeth Admiral   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Samnewbie I have a Cariad which is wooden hulled at twice scale. I decided to use a false keel but as I bought the hull completed needed to retro-fit one. I agree with you! If you can fit the tube as early on as possible it will make life a bit easier. My keel needs to be about 12kg and the tube is a couple of inches behind the mast. I am still trying to cast the keel; I'm now on my fourth attempt! I have calculated the keel weight and plan on it being about 1kg lighter than need be. This will allow me to finely trim the boat up once complete. Good luck with yours. Edward

Cleaning sails, toy yachts, etc.... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Useful to know about Vanish. It certainly worked on my Star yacht sails. Fortunately the sails on the Ailsa yacht are lovely anyway, just some new rigging cord required. I would say the sails were the same as bed sheets. I used some white spirit to clean the deck on the Ailsa. Most of the dirt being handling muck. Then I waxed it with 3M wax...twice. It's wonderful stuff which I bought for our historic narrowboat's new paintwork. It was a wooden boat and when I replaced the cabins and had painted them with Tra-mar Coatings hand made enamel paint, I waxed them with 3M's wax and they went another 3 winters before I sold the boat, with the rain still rolling off in beads. The Ailsa is now waiting for some spar varnish over the repair's creamish paint. I couldn't match it perfectly, but I didn't want to repaint the whole hull. All the repairs are under the waterline so it shouldn't show. The Star...I never heard of them using aluminium for masts. How would they have kept the rigging eyes in place? Martin

Spraying Again....... by boaty Admiral   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Doug Red primer certainly is porus and does need some protection when used on a wooden hull. The only exception to this is when the hull is plastic then plastic primer can be used. It adheres better than the standard primer and is readily available from the likes of Halfords etc. I have used this on my Italeri P.T 109 and is still good seven years on. Boaty😁

A Tragic Tale Unfolds by NPJ Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
About a month ago I came across a wooden model of a Side Trawler by the name of ‘Maartje’ dating from what I assume was the Sixties. It is 84 cm long (33 inches) with a beam of 19cm (7.75 inches). The then owner had found it in a poor state and had reconstructed and painted to a large degree, but then turned to model trains. It was not known whether it was a ‘kit’ or ‘scratch’ built but he had however found it was a model of a boat, UK 223, lost with all hands in the North Sea off Texel (NL) in 1967 thought to be registered in Diss UK.. I am aware that such a tragedy is not uncommon with sea fishermen but I had never come across a model of such a boat. I had some time on my hands so I started to make enquiries and I was surprised how helpful people were. I had contacted the Dutch Embassy in UK, the Press Association in Netherlands and the Texel Tourist Information Centre. Within a very short time I had responses not just from those sources but also from others they had contacted. A major response was from the Embassy with the names of the crew of five, some were never recovered and important, was information from the Harbour Master of the Port of Urk, Netherlands confirming the boat was registered there and who then contacted the son of the captain of the ‘Maartje’ and gave him my contact details. I am pleased to say the captain’s son Jauwk contacted me and we are now in frequent communication. So we now know the date of the loss, the sea area, weather conditions names of the crew and results of the enquiry. Also very personal and emotional information including the fact that two of the crew were father and son and that the captain’s wife was carrying his son, Jauwk at the time of the loss. You never know what this hobby may lead you into. NPJ.

Boaty P.T 109 by BOATSHED Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Dear oldtimer, If you have the patience to build a plastic model and the decide to fit it out and use RC in it. Then I am sure you would be able to build a model from wood. You can buy a wooden boat kit and if you have been able to read and do what the instructions say in your plastic kit then the wooden one would be no harder. You should never put yourself down and have belief in yourself and do it. Im sure you could.

Leaking Boat! by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Depends on the resin, NPJ. If it's epoxy you've bought, you need to weigh out 1/5th of the hardener to any amount of resin. Ergo...20 grams of resin, 4 grams of hardener. So get some electronic scales (very cheap and essential to the use of resin)put 20 grams in of resin and then, without touching the scales pour in drips of hardener till you have 24 or 25 grams showing on the scales. Don't go above that. Epoxy requires accuracy of measurement and endless mixing. Just mix and mix till you're fed up with it, then mix a bit more. Don't use large amounts as the heat from the curing of a large amount will set it off even quicker. Looking at your bottom picture, I see bubbles in the paint. Scrape them right off and see what's below. Probably soft wood, so scrape that out too and allow to dry thoroughly. Then in with the resin. If there's a bit of a dip, you can make your own filler by mixing fine sawdust with the resin into a peanut butter consistency and look and apply that to already wetted out surfaces. I used that on a full sized wooden canal boat. Worked a treat. When that's set, you can file it flat with a rasp and a second cut then wet'n'dry on a block to finish. Finally repaint and wax. But, as Doug says, you need to see if the water's getting in somewhere else like the shaft or rudder areas. Good luck, Martin

Leaking Boat! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Wrong place? How do you know that Neville? Once inside the water will run/creep to the lowest position it can reach! I don't like the idea of putting water INSIDE any wooden boat, 😲 not where it's supposed to be . Who knows where it creep to and soak in? Doug 😎 PS Get the visitors involved!😁

Range Safety Launch? by NPJ Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
The ‘Range Safety Launch’…………. Intro. I am now the owner of this boat. Wooden, good hull lines and hull paint work but needing to be finished. I am told that it looks like it started life as a kit, but has had considerable modification to at least the above deck layout and detail. Advice is that it could be a rather simplified Range Safety Launch, but maybe I can use a little ‘artistic licence’ and just make it look interesting and capable. There are two main reasons for sharing this project. 1. I will undoubtedly need guidance 2. Maybe some of the information will assist others The hull is 44 inches ( 112cm ) long and 14 inches (36cm ) wide, it has two brushed MFA Torpedo 800 motors………. and weighs in currently at 15 lbs 4ozs (6.91 kgs). It is large enough for me to be able to work on reasonably comfortably and apart from the cabin/upper deck areas to be ‘improved’, I aim to introduce sound, lighting, active radar sweep, search light, together with maybe a deck hoist and water /fire monitor appliance. At my age it is difficult to tell the difference between wishful thinking and dementing…… However, the prime aim is to try and achieve at least some of this whilst having the boat usable during the current ‘season’. There is so much knowledge, good will and help available on this site that even before I touched a thing, information came pouring in. If anyone feels like making a contribution then please just ‘pile in’. Have ordered some parts so next time should have something to show. NPJ.

So, why not woodies?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Hi all, a coffee break question for you all. You will know me if you know me at all as a lover of the woodie, the mahogany hotrod, the classic speedboat. And I wonder why they are so very rarely modelled. There are plenty of plans for them and a few kits which can be made straight or converted into others. They are well documented on the 'net. There are some wonderful books about them (most of which I have!). Yet where are they all? Surely they are more fun to fling round a pond than some old tanker/coaster. I realise tugs can be made to erm...tug, if the rest of the equipment is available, but it rarely seems to be. Does the glamour of a highly varnished wooden or painted finish with chrome fittings not appeal? Does the average smallness of the classic speedboat not make for easy transport? Not a criticism, just a ponder, but some response would be appreciated. Cheers, Martin

Norfolk Wherry Fans by Nerys Lieutenant   Posted: 6 months ago
There seems to be some misconceptions about Dutch Barges. Most of what we now refer to as Dutch barges were originally developed as fishing boats suited to the area in which they were working. There were many different types and far from just being used on the canals fished all waters of the Netherlands and were quite capable of taking on the sharp nasty seas of places like Hollandsche Diep and the Ooste Schelde. I can assure you, even the Ijselmeer can get choppy under the right conditions. In fact Dutch Schuyts brought cargoes of eels to London from about the 1600s and a berth was still kept for them until the early 20th century, They were typical of what we would now call a Dutch barge. There were quite small ones like the Schouw and the Grundel that were inshore and lake fishers, then they varied in size through the Botters, Hoogars and Lemeraaks to the Tjalk and the Klipper which were cargo carriers. The Klippers were roughly the same size as Thames Barges and sometimes bigger and were rigged as Gaff Ketches, similar to our West Country Ketches. They were mainly fairly heavily built well in keeping with traditional wooden working boats. In latter days, steel replaced wood but they still followed the traditional designs. Luckily, so many Dutch Barges are still being built as yachts, decorated and fitted out very traditionally and there is considerable interest in the many events held for them every year.