Wrong place? How do you know that Neville? Once inside the water will run/creep to the lowest position it can reach! I don't like the idea of putting water INSIDE any wooden boat, 😲 not where it's supposed to be . Who knows where it creep to and soak in? Doug 😎 PS Get the visitors involved!😁
The ‘Range Safety Launch’…………. Intro. I am now the owner of this boat. Wooden, good hull lines and hull paint work but needing to be finished. I am told that it looks like it started life as a kit, but has had considerable modification to at least the above deck layout and detail. Advice is that it could be a rather simplified Range Safety Launch, but maybe I can use a little ‘artistic licence’ and just make it look interesting and capable. There are two main reasons for sharing this project. 1. I will undoubtedly need guidance 2. Maybe some of the information will assist others The hull is 44 inches ( 112cm ) long and 14 inches (36cm ) wide, it has two brushed MFA Torpedo 800 motors………. and weighs in currently at 15 lbs 4ozs (6.91 kgs). It is large enough for me to be able to work on reasonably comfortably and apart from the cabin/upper deck areas to be ‘improved’, I aim to introduce sound, lighting, active radar sweep, search light, together with maybe a deck hoist and water /fire monitor appliance. At my age it is difficult to tell the difference between wishful thinking and dementing…… However, the prime aim is to try and achieve at least some of this whilst having the boat usable during the current ‘season’. There is so much knowledge, good will and help available on this site that even before I touched a thing, information came pouring in. If anyone feels like making a contribution then please just ‘pile in’. Have ordered some parts so next time should have something to show. NPJ.
Hi all, a coffee break question for you all. You will know me if you know me at all as a lover of the woodie, the mahogany hotrod, the classic speedboat. And I wonder why they are so very rarely modelled. There are plenty of plans for them and a few kits which can be made straight or converted into others. They are well documented on the 'net. There are some wonderful books about them (most of which I have!). Yet where are they all? Surely they are more fun to fling round a pond than some old tanker/coaster. I realise tugs can be made to erm...tug, if the rest of the equipment is available, but it rarely seems to be. Does the glamour of a highly varnished wooden or painted finish with chrome fittings not appeal? Does the average smallness of the classic speedboat not make for easy transport? Not a criticism, just a ponder, but some response would be appreciated. Cheers, Martin
There seems to be some misconceptions about Dutch Barges. Most of what we now refer to as Dutch barges were originally developed as fishing boats suited to the area in which they were working. There were many different types and far from just being used on the canals fished all waters of the Netherlands and were quite capable of taking on the sharp nasty seas of places like Hollandsche Diep and the Ooste Schelde. I can assure you, even the Ijselmeer can get choppy under the right conditions. In fact Dutch Schuyts brought cargoes of eels to London from about the 1600s and a berth was still kept for them until the early 20th century, They were typical of what we would now call a Dutch barge. There were quite small ones like the Schouw and the Grundel that were inshore and lake fishers, then they varied in size through the Botters, Hoogars and Lemeraaks to the Tjalk and the Klipper which were cargo carriers. The Klippers were roughly the same size as Thames Barges and sometimes bigger and were rigged as Gaff Ketches, similar to our West Country Ketches. They were mainly fairly heavily built well in keeping with traditional wooden working boats. In latter days, steel replaced wood but they still followed the traditional designs. Luckily, so many Dutch Barges are still being built as yachts, decorated and fitted out very traditionally and there is considerable interest in the many events held for them every year.
Now the Chine rubbing strakes are fitted, dry and filled and I have attended to the minor lumps and bumps the next job is to give another coat of resin, taking the issues of the first application into account I intend to apply a thin coat, this has the effect of filling in the pattern of the glass cloth. Another two days have passed and it’s time to do some rubbing down. I have found that the surface is very hard, more so than I recall some of the other fibre glass projects I have done but these have been using Polyester resin. It’s a first for epoxy, so is epoxy a better choice than Polyester? According to my mini research – Epoxy is more versatile Epoxy has fewer fumes Epoxy is stronger Epoxy shrinks less Conclusion Epoxy is the better choice for repairing/covering either wooden hulls or repairing fiberglass boats. It has excellent adhesive qualities, wets out fiberglass fabrics and it is tough. It has great thin film cure characteristics, cures in cool temperatures. After the first coat I wasn’t 100 % happy with the finish but I just thought that some dust had landed on the surface before the resin had dried, (this was proved not to be dust but because of the matting pattern still been visible it disguised the real problem) however this was easily sanded out with wet & dry. Now the hull and deck were looking really smooth with very little sign of the matting pattern it was time to give a final coat. I had decided to coat both the deck and the hull in one go so I mixed enough resin to do the lot. Starting with the deck I started to apply the resin but to may horror it started to pin prick all over the deck surface, panic, panic what was causing this? So was it the brush which I had previously washed out with cellulose thinners after applying the last batch of resin. I decided to remove the resin and use a new brush (I had 90 mins cure time to do this) so cleaning of with paper towel and finally with a wipe with thinners I started to apply resin again – but it happened again as I sat in despair I looked into the pot of resin wondering where to go next when I saw a film on the top of the remaining resin It was then I noticed a ridge in the cups side. It was the wax coating that had melted into the resin and subsequently appeared as pin pricks in the newly applied surface. At this realisation I removed all the resin again and took a breather hoping I had found the problem. Another day and a light rub down of the deck to make sure the surface is ready to receive its final coat. Resin weighed (in a glass container this time) and well mixed I started to apply again and fortunately it was OK and all surfaces were coated.
Good ol' Martin, you haven't changed a bit have you? But then why should we at our age? Just as forth(or fifth?)right as ever😉 Was mildly surprised to see you pop up again a year after you so explicitly and expressively announced your departure! Getting bored? What might seem "utterly stupid and pointless" to you, as a lifetime professional model builder, is a very satisfying and maybe only possible way for many of us to enjoy this hobby. Is it really necessary to denigrate kit builders in this insulting manner? Some of us do a mixture of scratch and kit building, sometimes for the fun of building, sometimes for convenience / speed, as a a fill-in JFF job during a bigger build project, or because the scale is smaller than the 'small scale' of 1/48th you mention. I.e. working models at 1:350 or 1:400. Even then we fiddle about with embellishments such as photo etch, which itself demands certain skills. Even kits demand certain skills, especially the larger more complex ones. My next 'average' kit build will be a 1metre Akula II Russian submarine with diving tank for static diving. Utterly stupid and pointless but a great challenge and ultimately great fun I hope, with a built in mini video camera. A way down the line as other wooden boat restoration projects are still on the slipway, but something new to try. Maybe you should do that sometime? Have fun with your dogs. Viele Grüße aus München, Doug 😎 Oh! and QEND - Quad erat non demonstrandum! BTW: nice work on the Vanity woodwork, thought you had her finished long ago though. Did you ever get your old Taycols out of your son's loft?
Picked up a rather battered wooden hulled Amsterdam tug last Thursday. The intention is to give it some much needed TLC and convert it to one of the French Tenace Class tugs. It will be used as my clubs camera / rescue boat so accuracy and detail will come second to the functionality of its role. Currently I have stripped out everything except the motor so I can fit some strengthening and improve the watertightness of the hull
Plasticard! 😲 That's cheating 😁 but I can more than appreciate why, being in the middle of renovating a 60s built wooden boat! I also separated the bridge and deck houses on my destroyer to hide various switches and sockets👍 BTW: if you're using LiPos DON'T CHARGE THEM IN THE BOAT PLEASE!!!😡 Charge 'em in a LiPo Safe bag! Cheers Doug 😎
Evenin' MT, Thanks👍 Yep I know blooming from my car restoration days. Causes a dull satin effect with some whitish fogging 😡 That's not what happened here, suddenly a patch of yellowish spots appeared under the gloss!😭 Only thing I can think of is that with the last flattening with 3000 grit I used a drop of liquid soap to lubricate the sanding sponge, gives that almost glass finish. Maybe some soap residue was still there and the next lacquer coat reacted with it? The soap is a trick I learned during car repairs. Of course then I could wash it all off with a big sponge and chuck a bucket of water over it! Not such a good idea with a model wooden boat🤔 Re 'Your skins' 😲 I used mahogany 'because it was there' and I suddenly had a picture in my mind what it could look like (Riva style😉) if I could do the job right! I'm pretty happy with how it eventually worked out 😊 Not sure that a mahog roof fits the image of an RAF boat? and painting it would be a shame 🤔 But if you do decide to use it you may have more luck with 0.5mm, mine was 1mm+. What are the 'existing skins'? Re clothing: I didn't do that, didn't want to risk obscuring the wood grain on the outside and the inside I had sealed with two coats of EzeKote anyway. Cloth would have been superfluous. But if you're going to paint the roof anyway then - why not? Would give strength and rigidity. Thicker ply? More than 0.5 / 0.6mm and you may have the problem I had with the compound curve!!! Cheers Doug 😎
PT 109 was one of the hundreds of motor torpedo boats (PT) of the PT 103 class completed between 1942 and 1945 by Elco Naval Division of Electric Boat Company at Bayonne, New Jersey. The Elco boats were the largest in size of the three types of PT boats built for U.S. use during World War II. Wooden-hulled, 80 feet long with a 20-foot, 8-inch beam, the Elco PT boats had three 12-cylinder Packard gasoline engines generating a total of 4,500 horsepower for a designed speed of 41 knots. With accommodations for 3 officers and 14 men, the crew varied from 12 to 14. Its full-load displacement was 56 tons. Early Elco boats had two 20mm guns, four .50-caliber machine guns, and two or four 21-inch torpedo tubes. Some of them carried depth charges or mine racks. Later boats mounted one 40mm gun and four torpedo launching racks. Many boats received ad-hoc refits at advanced bases, mounting such light guns as Army Air Forces 37mm aircraft guns and even Japanese 23mm guns. Some PTs later received rocket launchers. This Proboat PT 109 model was brought in 2013 for £100 these boats are rare now, This one had a few faults with the propshafts they were bent and noisy both were replaced, with quality 4mm shafts, motors twin 600s were also replaced by Graupner versions along with mounts and couplings, basically all the running gear, also two ESCs by Aquapower were added and a 2.4G RC system.