My dad built this over a long period of time, starting in the '80s. The hull is fibreglass and the rest is scratch built from plastic card, balsa, ply, wire and anything else he could adapt. Although he installed the motors, props and rudders he never completed the RC installation or tested it. I inherited his boat models a few years ago and wanted to "finish the job", getting the model on the water. After installing the RC gear and batteries over the last few months, this weekend was the first sailing outside the bath at the Valley Gardens boating lake. Happy to report that it sailed really nicely, seems to be reasonably stable although I did restrict it to calmer times when the MTBs and faster boats weren't running ! HMS Cadiz was a battle class destroyer, laid down and launched during WW2 although she didn't receive her commission until 1946 so didn't see combat with the Royal Navy, serving with the home fleet. Due to the changeover in pennant numbering she was originally allocated R09 and later, when the admiralty decided to revert to the D for Destroyer pennant numbering she was assigned D79. To reflect this my model has D79 on the starboard side and R09 on the port side. She was sold to Pakistan in the late '50s, and renamed PNS Khaibar. She was sunk with the loss of nearly all hands in 1971 in the Indo-Pakistan war.
Hi William, S, X35 !? No idea😲 I assume they are terms from the racing world which I have no particular interest in. My intention wasn't to make her into an offshore racer. As it is she's well over scale speed, but fun to run, and that's what counts ain' it? 😉 Gives a good long run time, 1 hour plus, using a Propdrive 2830 BL and a 3S 4Ah battery. All up weight 1974gm. LoA 24", beam 8.5". My prop is simply a 35mm ca 14 pitch from Raboesch. Actually wanted the one with a blunter hub but they weren't available when I wanted it. The pointed hub variant is actually more like as fitted to larger naval units in WW2. Sorry🤔 Cheers, Doug 😎
Preparing to build a 1/48 scale WW2 Flower Class Corvette, just recieved the hull from Fleetscale excellent quality also purchased from them was the prop shaft, prop, and stuffing box and rudder. The materials and craftsmanship on these are priceless. The motor is a MFA/ combo drills 12v D.C. pt No. 457-RE800 and I plan on using a Viper marine 40 amp Mtroniks speed control perhaps a little overkill.
Yes Deepdiver, the rudder is offset on the and liberty and made of cast concrete in two sections for fuel efficiency which I understand saved thousands of gallons of fuel, since I,m not worried about the mileage I’m just going to simulate the rebar on the rudder for scale affect. I foolded a brass sheet over into a streamline air foil shape and sandwiched a piece 1/8” brass rod for the post. Just a point of interest the American aircraft carrier based Corsair had 2 degrees of offset built into the vertical Fin as well as a rudder trim tab to compensate for the torque. I just returned from Baltimore where my wife and I took a 8hr day trip on the John W. Brown one of 3 remaining working WW2 Libertyships.
The Aerokits P.T boat is a semi scale model based upon the Elco 80ft PT boat of WW2. The most famous of these being PT109 whose skipper was John F Kennedy who later became President of the U.S.A. Though the Aerokits version is semi scale there is scope for minor modifications to bring it up to scale. There is a lot of information around on the internet and articles in related magazines etc which will provide modelers with good guidelines for achieving this. Due to the size of the Aerokits version there is plenty of room in the hull both for a single motor version or a triple one, the latter bringing it up to true scale. Though there are manufacturers who produce replicas of Aerokits I have not seen one for the P.T Boat but with a bit of searching,😁😁 plans can be found. Boaty
Excellent job Reilly 👍 Great video and music 👍 I see you decided after all to drown the crew😁 I decided the same for my U26! Not painted or fixed yet 🤔 Looks like you have a very similar dive system as my Akula II from Engel, or do you have two tanks? Main and trim or fore and aft? I also used perspex (5mm) for the access hatch on U26, with a silicone rubber gasket. Same basic construction, with detachable deck / upper hull, due to the hull design in those days; pressure hull and outer flooded hull. The Akula is a slightly different kettle of fish. Being a more modern nuclear sub round design all the innards are mounted in a tube and sealed in with a bayonet fixed bulkhead in the bow. No scope for external decoration like the WW2 boats. Cheers, Doug 😎
Hi Bryan, If you want to do the SOE version she was most likely painted all matt black! The colour of skulduggery 😉 What ever you do, despite your good intentions to retain the 'old patina', judging by the photos you are in for a complete strip back and redo. Just as I have discovered with the PTB I bought. Thought it would just be a 'cosmetic job', flatten back and respray with Pacific green camouflage. Ho ho ho! Pics show what she currently looks like after cleaning off layers of enamel, and discovering that the prop shafts and rudders were misaligned and the chine strakes glued to the paint. 😡 Never mind an engine room fire when I tried to test the 'as bought' motor installation. 😭 Since those photos I have fitted new a new chine strake and started reinforcing the thin hull with glass fibre tissue. Next issue; set prop tubes properly and make an alu bracket to mount both the motors. Then set the rudder stocks correctly. Last thing I want is to dampen your enthusiasm, but that hull looks like it needs oodles of TLC. 🤔 Be aware of what's ahead of you and plan accordingly👍 Deck looks pretty neat, if unusual for a WW2 in service boat! As far as I can tell from the photos it's not just the cabin roof which is warped 😲 cabin and window frames will also need some attention by the looks of it. Before you run that motor I would strip it, clean all parts and check brushes and commutator for wear. See my Sea Scout blog 'Taycol Target motor' for a 'How to'. Should run well with a 3S LiPo, 11.1V. These boats weren't the fastest, 28 - 30 knots I believe. Which is why ST360 was reduced to more mundane duties after try outs by SOE. Don't forget some spark suppression!! Good luck, whatever you decide to do have fun doing it, Cheers Doug 😎
[Score: 8/10] 40" P558 Triple Propellors (3 Blade 25mm) Direct Drive Powered by NiMH (7.2v) Batteries Controlled Through 220a ESC - Comments: Modified plastic magic kit by Italeri of s100 as distributed to Allied powers following WW2 Completed 2015
Wow! Superb 👍👍👍 She looks massive, how big is she? Would love to know how you did the working lift, I've been pondering just that for a model of Ark Royal (the WW2 version). Lovely work, nicely organised internals as well. Please do a Build Blog, I'll be the first to subscribe😉 Cheers, Doug 😎
My uncle Peter was a flotilla leader with coastal forces in the Mediterean, in the second half of WW2 . My late father, Douglas, his brother, built the pictured MTB in 1956. It ran with i.c. power until 1962, when it was mothballed. I recently restored and upgraded the model (brushless motors etc) and thought that it would be great to take the model all the way down a lake in Devon to demonstrate it for him. Not having any local knowledge, I put a request on this excellent site, asking for help from local guys and must say that the site has some wonderful subscribers who came forward with help and support, especially Keystone. He was brilliant and greatly contributed to make the visit a great success. thanks, mate. My uncle and the other members present greatly enjoyed it, though the windy, cold conditions rendered the rum tot most acceptable!! The photos are self explanatory. The tug was there as a rescue boat if required. Many thanks to all Model Boats' members who responded to my request for help.
I have found a similar situation with li po batteries. After standing for some time when I have connected them to the charger there are not as depleted as I thought. I had an interesting find last year when I was in a second hand shop in North Wales. There was a large metal ammunition box that appeared to be of WW2" vintage and they only wanted a tenner so I bought it. I keep my li po's in it with the higher capacity ones also in the box but in the fire resistant bag. The box of course has a lid that securely closes with two catches. 😁 Boaty
Hi Peter, Thank you! Happy to help. But I don't claim to know everything😉 I stay out of discussions on things which are not my forte; e.g. yachts and other sailing craft, apart from admiring the woodwork involved, or subs - where I am still at the bottom of the learning curve, but I've been a fan of WW2 warships for years and enjoy researching the history and building them. Been fiddlin' with computers since the end of the sixties! They got a lot smaller since then 😁 I envy you being able to visit the Heywood show 😡 Sorry the 'Extra Time' site has been deleted by FIFA (I couldn't afford the million 'Fee' they wanted😁) Happy building and sailing, cheers Doug 😎