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>> Home > Tags > yellow glue

yellow glue
aliphatic glue
aliphatic resin glue
carpenters glue
yellow glue
LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Hi Pete, Thanks 😊 Yep, I decided to stick with 4 lights cos tha's all I see on the original 'WYEFORCE'. Yep again! I do intend to modify the two lights on the stub mast; 1 yellow 'Towing' and 1 white 'Stern'. I will also fit a wheelhouse light. Decided to do it 'fluorescent' style by fitting 2 white 3mm LEDs in the ends of a long block of 5mm perspex. After that the 2 work-deck floodlights, lower cabin lights and 2 deck lamps 1 each side of the main cabin. I'll probably link the cabin and deck lights so that they all come on together. Now pondering how to build a miniature working diesel genny to power them all😁 Good luck with your divider! You will have more wires to squash in than I did so I doubt there's room. Have fun trying. I separated the wires quite easily by keeping all the negative legs of the LEDs (that's the leg going to the larger electrode in the diode) on one side and soldering them to the brass wire negative rail first. Then I took colour coded thin 'hook-up' wire to each LED in turn; working from the top down. Cut the LED leg to 1/4", stripped the hook-up wire back 1/4", twisted the wire strands together and tinned it. Tin the LED leg as well and bend it 90° down the mast. Then it's easy to solder the wire cleanly to the LED keeping it well away from any other wires. When all was connected, and tested OK, I stuck the wires down with thick gel super glue so they can't wander about. To fit the LEDs to the mast, I removed the brackets; removed the dummy lights with a razor saw, filed the mounting flat and drilled holes for the LED legs in them, using a 0.75mm drill bit in a pin chuck, and glued the LEDs on with gluper sue. Then I bent the leads 90° back towards the mast and drilled 0.75mm holes horizontally into the mast so I could literally 'plug' the lamp bracket complete with LED straight in and glue it down. Painted matt black the leads become invisible, as in 3rd pic above😉 Winch: at least your version of the model seems to HAVE a winch! Or where did those two pics come from? Mine ain't got nuffink, just a big 'ole at the back of the cabin😭 All the best, Doug 😎

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by Pete Lieutenant   Posted: 7 months ago
Thanks Doug. You’re amazing! Somehow I’ve managed to pick up The Curse Of The Pink Eye. I can see OK this morning so I’m replying quickly before The Goo blinds me again. Over the weekend I went through a cycle of “blink, blink, blink...I can see again! I can SEE!!...blink...I’M BLIND!!...blink, blink..., repeat. A few minutes ago I looked in the bathroom mirror & saw a hideous monster with horrible red eyes & wild gray hair. I’m definitely NOT going in there again! It’s the powder room for me today. I don’t know what that thing is but they should put his face on medicine bottles & toxic household chemicals to frighten children. Thanks for your hard work, Doug. I’ll look at your results as soon as the yellow woodworker’s glue in my eyes runs out. I hope pink eye can’t be spread through cyberspace. Wash your hands thoroughly after reading this just in case. Here it comes!

The wheelhouse, pain tempered by an inspired suggestion! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 years ago
Aliphatic resin glue is what we commonly know as 'yellow glue' or 'carpenter's glue'. It is similar to PVA (white glue), but has been modified to make it stronger and more moisture resistant. Titebond Original is one of the most common aliphatic glues sold in the US

1" plastic props by Derek Commander   Posted: 3 years ago
I found 28mm on eBay with 2mm hole. Pack of 4 Same handed. For your purposes you could trim them down. Put " plastic model boat propeller 25mm push on" in. Scroll down. Yellow & Red colours. If you find any threaded ones, plug the hole with Resin, drill new hole and super glue. Assume you've put the actual model in Google or the likes, and added " spare parts" to the end. Also Billings did a small static waveny. I radio controlled mine, and used the props supplied. Could see if anyone has those.

Chatham Lifeboat CG-36500 by rustypiston Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 6 years ago
Hello Ian I find balsa an Inexpensive and flexible material to work with. I use Elmer's yellow carpenters glue to fasten the strips to the frames, held In place with "T" pins until dry. As to the waterproofing the hull...I brush apply a coat of resin "wash" to the hull's exterior(AND Interior) after all the planking Is In place. I thin the resin with lacquer thinner so It will be absorbed Into the balsa wood grain. When dry I apply a second coat unthinned to the hull. I find It strengthens the hull with out applying the fiberglass cloth. When dry I wet sand the hull until I'm satisfied with the finish, then I use rattlecan(spray) automobile primer to prime the hull. On a larger model, say anything over 36 Inches, perhaps the cloth would be additional strength to a balsa hull, many R/C ship builders use both resin and cloth. Thank you for the kind words, good luck In your project. Mike

34" Fireboat by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 years ago
HI PeteG Paint can be very deceptive and can cover a multitude of problems. Very fine cracks can occur at the glued joints and water will find Its way under the paint, so please check very carefully after you have had the hull In the water for (say) 1 hour. The resin Is standard car repair resin used with a catalyst hardener as sold by many car spares suppliers. My local supplier has Davids Fastplas resin In 500ml yellow cans. You need to also buy the catalyst. Sets In approx 20 mins so you should only mix small amounts at any one time. Having mixed the liquid pour Into the hull, which you then rotate to spread the resin around the Inside of the boat. Latex gloves are useful to protect your hands and make sure you are In a well ventilated area as the fumes can cause breathing difficulties. Best done In the garden on a warm day as It can take ages for the resin to set In cold conditions. Please read the Instructions carefully. I find that some very gentle heat after pouring helps to thin the resin and allows for a thinner (lighter) coating. I actually had to replace my rear transom but the exhaust hole can be filled with a wood fillet fitted Into the hole and supported by a wood plate glued Inside the hull. Or you can repair with fiberglass just like a rust hole In a car body. The lower small pipe Is the water Intake for the cooling system and may be needed If you are fitting a water cooled motor or ESC. There should be a similar small pipe In the side of the hull adjacent to the engine bay, but It may also be at the rear with the exhaust. When you buy your motor you will know If you need water cooling. My model has a small brushless motor and uses a Lipo battery but this Is not necessary and maybe not for a novice. As Db said In an earlier post there are many setup details on this site that will give you help. Are you In a model club? Is your local model shop a specialist In model boats? Either would be a good local source of helpful Information to get your model on the water. Good luck Dave

Rear tanks by Peter HS93 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 years ago
The last day or two has been spent tidying up the hull, I think there Is just the exhausts and water outlets and generator exhausts on the transom and a flag mast that has to be removable, I have finally got the transom looking half way decent so I can go ahead with them now I am thinking of drilling the transom and making them quite deep so they look a bit better than what would look like portholes stuck on. The other thing I have been working on Is the rear tanks In the well deck, they have a grating on part of the top, so I got some kits to make some up. I don't know If anybody has made any but I hope I don't have to make any more, the kits where 33mm x 33mm and I want 55mm by about 20mm so you have to join them together, they are a pig to do and I have only just started. There must be an essay way to do them but I am stuck with a dish of yellow glue and a stick you have to trim the ends of the ones you want to join. I had to alter the tank tops as well to take them, the races I had left were not deep enough. This build Is getting more and more like my 34" build that I started as a quick build and ended up trying to detail It, I think the next boat I build I will start with the Idea I am going to detail It and then I might do a quick build! right the lower picture shows the finished grating, and the small panels I have made to go alongside them.the grating Is made of boxwood and Is very hard , It Is not nice to hold If you have sanded It on a disc sander as It becomes very sharp and cuts In to your fingers as you try to sand the sharp edges. I am going to make a false floor for the well deck so I can line It and mark the hatches on I will use very thin plasticard and have It so It can be painted then fitted Ill try and fix the ladders to It as well, and they will be attached to the strip I have attached the tow hook tube strengtheners to .talking of the tow hook you can see now have removed It the elongated holes for the bolts, only two are used to hold Id down the rest are for show, but they all have nuts on the bottom hence the slots to clear , you can just see the piece of Fiberglass through the holes that strengthens the platform.