When I used the ferries over the river Mersey the landing stages were cantilevered and the gaps covered with sliding plates. Water moves so you do need to allow your floating stages to rise and fall. I agree with pressonregardless and see you are adopting a similar system. Make sure the gap for the joints allows for the maximum wave size movement and use a hinged plate to cover the gap. There will be quite some pressure on the mountings so I suggest you do a trial with one to see if it needs to be made stronger. If I remember correctly the floating pontoons were attached to shore with heavy anchor chains.
Looking forward to see your finished product
dave976

Hi AndyB
I usually attach the line from my winch to a hook on the spar and run the line along the spar to another hook then back to use a bowsie. That way I can adjust the travel as the wind dictates. I have used end point adjustment and agree it works well for initial setup. However many of my schooners use one winch so I need to have individual adjustment of the spars.
Model coming along well and I look forward to seeing her on the water
dave976

Hi Jimbob901
I have looked on line for details of the Hurricane and see it is an RTR model from Volantex. according to the specs the radio is in a self contained box in the model and all the difficult parts of the rigging are pre installed. Instructions are provided to allow the purchaser to attach the sails and rigging so if it is this part that has become tangled then removing and refixing according to the instructions should solve your problem. As others have correctly stated there are many ways to rig a yacht and there is much help on line and via Utube to see how to proceed.
Your model however has a sealed bespoke system and I suspect uses their own design for the rigging so is probably not modifyable.
If there is a model boat club near to you I suggest you seek their advice as there will be experienced yachtsmen who may be willing and able to help.
If any member on this site has a Volantex Hurricane yacht I would hope they would offer their advice as that would be comparing like with like.
My own club sails similar RTR models and they are generally good sailers but my RG65 was an early version and was not the easiest to rig initially but sailed beautifully.
Good luck and I hope you can find the help to fix your model
Dave976

Your planking is running parallel to the centre line unlike the picture of a pleasure yacht where the planks are bent and stepped into the centre plank. To use this on your model would require re-laying all the good work already undertaken and making curved planks. I very much doubt your steam drifter had curved planks, but stand to be corrected. The centre plank is often slightly wider than the deck planking to take up any slight differences from side to side. Looking at your model a tapered plank does not seem to be required apart from some minor taper to fill the centre. Hope you find a satisfactory solution.
dave976

Hi Dave
I can not see any decal on the Pics posted, probably got lost in the conversion to up load. That said you can confirm you have a Mamod.
I googled Mamod ME1 and came up with a load of data and U-tube accounts regarding this model from the 1970's.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FpoYmIYMJHA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iixE4O6FFe8
a very early 1937 version
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4KfIXuCf9r0
Should be easy enough to fabricate a fire grate to take either the solid tablets or meths.
there is a useful site at
http://rolywilliams.com/Mamod%20ME1-37.html
In my opinion the users had the pressure valve set far too high resulting in the high level of vibration also caused by the engine not mounted securely whilst running.
I would pressure test the boiler before steaming as it is over 40years old.
The prop does need to be in water to lubricate the bearing and in the videos I suspect a worn bearing is also part of the vibration problem.
Hope this helps you progress but please do take care and don't follow the unwise running practices shown in the video.
dave976

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FpoYmIYMJHA

🔗

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iixE4O6FFe8

🔗

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4KfIXuCf9r0

🔗

http://rolywilliams.com/Mamod%20ME1-37.html

🔗

Hi Garth
Good find and an interesting project.
I agree the price of portholes is high and there are few suppliers I can find. I believe you may regret removing the portholes as they do form a fairly prominent part of the model. I have in the past used small metal washers to simulate port holes and if you paint the porthole black the result looks quite acceptable. If there is a hole I have used round Perspex (Acrylic) rod pieces in the hole and a washer on the face. I bought the washers in packs of 100+ for a couple of pounds so I don't expect they will be much dearer over the pond.
Funnel looks fine to me. Good to see some scratch building taking place.
Will you be making a sanding jig or two to check all the windows?
happy building
dave976

Hi Dave
I am not sure this is from the Mammod stable and looking at sites in the UK I have not managed to find anything similar. There were other manufacturers as model steam engines were popular as toys in the 50's and 60's.
It could be an American maker as there are castings and pressed steel used that rather rule out a homemade item.
Value is always a difficult subject and is often what the buyer is prepared to pay rather than the actual value.
It is a really nice article from a former time and would sit well in any collectors display.
I suggest you treat it as a static display and not try and steam it. If you want to see it run use compressed air which will be far safer.
As you are buying from a friend I am sure you can sit down with a nice drink and come to a price. After all you both want to have the model maintained for future posterity and who can put a price on that?
dave976

Hi wunwinlo
This was built by another club member and sold on when he finished sailing models so we do not have the plan. It is a model of a Sea Plane tender and was probably built in the 1960's. It could have been a kit from the Maycraft stable or even Veron but also possibly built from a plan in Model Boats or its predecessors. Doug replaced the brushed 550 motors with two 2028 brushless arounf 1000Kv with scale 3 blade brass props and 11.1v LiPo 2200Ma. Models from this period are very nostalgic and I look forward to seeing your model some time in the future,
Cheers
Dave976

Hi fulmic
LEDS require a constant voltage and this can easily be achieved by using a series resistor between the battery and the LED.
Different coloured LEDs require different voltages so you cannot mix red and green leds connected to one resistor. I use a separate resistor for each type of coloured led. For 12v I use a 1K to 1.5K depending on how bright you want. For 6v >470ohm works but again adjust to suit. LEDs are diodes and if you do not limit the current they will self distruct very quickly. You can connect say 4 LEDS in series and attach to a 6v supply but I would always use a few hundred ohm resistor also in series to protect the dead short failure of one of the Leds.
As regards a battery there are devices on line that will reduce your main battery voltage to 2v to 3v or you could use a single LiFePO4 cell at 3.3v.
dave976

Hi Doug
The mesh on my Taycol was flat so not surprising it sparked so much. A friend who exhibits vintage models etc has my motor on loan at present so I can't upload a pic. The special had extra coils so could be reversed by connecting the battery to one of two connectors to reverse the field coils. I see the extra holes are on your paxolin end formers. The extra field coils did make for a heavier motor but a simple relay could be used to reverse direction. This was a big bonus in the 1960's as the radio was not cheap and multi channels were not that common.
Happy days
dave976

The Club sails on Thursdays in the summer 6-8 and Sunday mornings 10-12 on the lakes in Springfields Gardens in Spalding. Sailing is mostly on the square lake, nearest to the travel lodge. Postcode is PE12 6EU.

We had a good selection of models sailing on the lake at Boundary Park on Monday.

CDMBC_2May2022

▶️

This is a model not often seen and was sailed on Monday 2 May at Boundary Park.

CDMBC - Dougs Sea Plane Tender

▶️

Hi Colin
Sounds like you have found the Ultramax 7Ahr LifepO4 being sold discounted at present so I would not wait too long if you want at this reduced price.
I have used this type of battery in a smaller version to power my yachts for a few year and can confirm they do deliver the power.
Cheers
Dave

Hi Colin
NiMhs are the best alternative if you don't want to use LiPos.
Problem is they are not cheap as most users have switched to LiPo. A 12v 5AHr NiMh will cost £30+ so I suspect you may have to remain with your SLA's.
If you are happy with shorter running times you could use lower capacity SLA's which would reduce the weight but give less running time. A spare battery could help extend this. Just a thought but might be in your budget.
Should you wish to move to LiPOs then the initial cost would not be cheap. As well as the battery you would require a special balanced charger and you may also need to update your ESC to one designed to protect the LiPO from over discharge.
Used correctly they are perfectly safe but if you overcharge or discharge below the minimum cell voltage they can become unstable.
Hope this helps
Cheers
Dave976

Hi Nothernflotsam
Have a look in your personal messages. I have sent you a pdf of the MM articles on the Exploit.
Cheers
dave976

Hi Doug
I did suspect that the modification to work with modern RC would have had a beneficial effect. Only wish the modern diodes were about when I was using my Special. I bet the bearings have made a great improvement although the speed I used to achieve resulted in a most satisfying whine but did require frequent lubrication of the oil pads on the solid bearings.
I agree it is a pleasure to see a Sea Commander and the motor all afloat and restored.
Cheers,
dave976

Hi Nothernfloysam
I have a copy of MM feb 91 and will photocopy the RNAS Exploit article and send as a pm to you in the next couple of days
dave976

Hi Colin
Probably the modern mesh is better than I had in the 60's but good to hear you are running this motor
dave976

Hi Martin
I use lightweight fibreglass cloth with layup resin and it will follow the form of most hulls. If the angles become too sharp you will need to cut the tissue and overlay as you proceed. I usually try the fit using a small brush and cut as required. Sometimes I get this wrong and use a sharp scalpel to cut and fit.
Isopon is ideal for fixing holes using fibreglass mat but it is too thick to use as a layup resin and sets far too quickly to allow a large area to be covered.
Eze-Kote is advertised as a light weight water based layup resin suitable for light weight glass cloth. You will have to test with a small piece of the Halford mat tissue to see if it works.
Fibreglass cloth is flexible and strong and will not split and can easily be cut with very sharp scissors just like mat fibreglass.
If you want to compare with your Deluxe tissue I have a local supplier in Cheshire but they do mail order.
http://www.resin-supplies.co.uk/Pricelist.htm#GLASSFIBRE%20T...
I also wear nitrile gloves when working with any fibreglass products and a face mask. The fine fibres and their coating can and do irritate my skin if allowed contact.
Looking forward to seeing how you progress
dave976

http://www.resin-supplies.co.uk/Pricelist.htm#GLASSFIBRE%20TISSUE

🔗

Hi Colin
I have a Taycol Supermarine Special and it draws 5amps unloaded so I suspect yours will be similar. Under load this will increase to a higher level so a 4Ahr battery although lighter may not be suitable. A LiPo would be the best choice but a 12v Nimh at 5amps might be a suitable and lighter choice. The RFI from the Taycols was quite strong and in the early days of 27Mhz it was quite capable of disabling any models (including mine) on my local pond so I was usually made to sail when everyone else had finished. Modern 2.4Ghz sets seem fairly immune but your Esc could be affected so keep the signal and aerial wires well away from the battery and motor leads. I did have coils and suppressers fitted but the sparks were acting as a transmitter. Good to see a restored Sea Commander we have several in my club and they do bring back so many memories.
dave976

Great piece of kit and it looks like FlySky are following FrSky in abandoning open source software in favour of in house offerings. The specs are really impressive and the range is ideal for airborne craft and I see you have a quadcopter so should be ideal. I have watched a couple of videos showing people programming their Tx's and was reminded of my Taranis. The good points are you really do have complete control over the whole system and there are multiple mixing functions. The touch screen controls are good and what you are programming is shown on the screen so little chance for error.
It does seem possible to plug other modules in the rear and use other systems but two way communication may not be available when using say legacy FrSky systems.
I hope you are going to report how you progress.
Cheers
dave976

Hi Dave
The Mamod steam engines were were and are very popular simple low pressure oscillating engines often using spirit fuel in liquid or solid form.
They often require the flywheel to be flicked with a finger to bring to life and will then run until the fuel or water runs out.
Once started there is little or no control possible but in an enclosed pond can have the rudder set to run in circles. Power is not great so only really suitable for a small model.
They provide a good introduction to steam power and I'm sure many enjoyed playing with their models. Probably encouraged many steam enthusiasts in their youth so excellent really.
Even if you can't put the model in a boat you could use it as a static display and perhaps exhibit for others to learn and enjoy.
As with all steam powered engines there are H&S concerns from the flame and the scalding hot steam but used correctly they are safe.
I do hope you take up the challenge and restore this piece of nostalgia to its original condition, even if you don't actually steam it the end result will be worthwhile.
dave976

Many thanks for the info
dave976

Hi Northernflotsam
Nice looking model of a coble. I am looking for a plan for a coble and see you managed to find one. Please will you share where such a plan might be bought. I do believe Model Boats have a plan MM 1040 but yours looks different. Hope you can help. Thanks
dave976

Hi MartynB
As others have advised the motor and propshaft need to be in completed alignment. You will need to remove enough of the baseplate to allow your motor and mount to align correctly and then provide a new wooden sloping base. Take your time and work slowly so you don't make yourself more work.
You say you are new to modelling but may have some woodworking skills and tools which will help with the task.
The three small capacitors glued to the motor need to be soldered to the motor terminals. Details are available on this site at
https://model-boats.com/wiki/38741

Good luck with the renovation and please keep asking questions as you progress.
dave 976

wiki/38741

🔗

I use cocktail sticks tapped into fine drilled holes in the wood. White glue will hold the whole in place. Once dry you can sand smooth and it will be almost invisible. I have even used on mahogany planks staining the sticks afterwards. Much better and cheaper than any form of metal fixing that inevitably starts to show after several years.
dave976

Looking good. Nice neat planking enhanced by the excellent paint finish.
dave976

Hi Dave B
I agree there has been some attempt to seal the multitude of cracked joints in the hull. I suspect this was not that successful and similar patching may not be much better. You have the option to sand back (or paint strip) all the hull and repair any damaged areas. You could then cover the entire outside with fine glass cloth and laminating resin. Or just paint the whole hull with a sealant. This will ensure you have a smooth watertight and solid hull that can be repainted to the original colours. I appreciate this will involve removing any strakes on the hull and quite a bit of work but the end result will justify the time and effort.
As regards paint Rattle cans are quite popular and are available in white and black, but if a good varnish or enamel would also be OK. I always give a coat of silk or matt lacquer to my hulls - it helps to keeps them clean.
Looking forward to see how you progress. Good restoring!
dave976

Hi boatiebennett
There are so many models of lifeboats that the best way to identify your model is to post a picture or two.
dave976