The link has not copied correctly. The end bit should be 66726.html

Nice model, the link I believe is
https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,6672...
Well worth a look
Dave

https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,66726.html

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Martin
If you were to use Google Chrome they have an add on that will translate any non English language posts at the click of a button. A small pop up screen appears at the top right of my browser when non English text is shown asking if I want it translated. I am running Win 10 so not sure if it works with other set-ups.

Looks like a fishing boat and if following convention CM was allocated to French Fishing boats from Camaret https://www.findafishingboat.com/article/fishing-boat-regist... . That said it is a similar deck layout to my Cariad, a Bristol Pilot cutter and many other fishing type vessels so hopefully someone will be able to identify your particular model. It looks well made and in good condition and should sail well.

https://www.findafishingboat.com/article/fishing-boat-registration-letters

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Hi Phil
Looking at your pics it is clear that there is water entering via the prop tube on one side. There is evidence in the form of staining on the motor bracket, which is absent on the other motor bracket. There is also evidence of water damage in the forward compartment on the same side, which suggests over time the water is seeping through the bulkhead from where your puddle is collecting
. Capillary action is dependant on shaft rotation which would explain why only one side is affected. It could also be that that prop shaft and tube are worn or need lubrication. Washers and lubrication will be your easiest and quickest option without resorting to structural repair, which I suspect is not required. A piece of dry paper towel under the prop shaft whilst running in water should identify if this is the source of your leak. Run the motors in both directions for a couple of minutes to be sure.

Hi Phil,
You do need thrust washers between the prop shaft and locking nuts, they protect the bearings on the motor but more importantly provides a good seal between the prop shaft and bearing whichever direction the prop is turning. I suspect the water you are seeing is from the motor end of the prop shaft and is running down the outside of the prop tube to the lowest point, try putting some paper towel round the shaft to see if this is the case.

Hi Phil
Glad to hear the hull is sound and with your proposed plan of action should result in as good as original with lots of sanding between coats.
As regards the prop tube leak I agree with other comments already made. What is not clear is the actual set up at each end. Should be prop, locknut, thrust washer then the reverse at the motor end. It is possible the shaft and or bearings have worn, if you can feel play when moving the shaft vertically to the tube this could be an issue. I always remove the shaft carefully in any old model I acquire so I can inspect the bearing areas. You need a very smooth bearing surface with little or no play for best results. 3in1 oil and a soft cloth will help remove any surface rust but do go gently. Grease/oil mix in the prop shaft will help stop water ingress and will need at least an annual inspection and replacement. When fitting the last washer/nut/coupling there should be a small amount of lateral play between the washer and bearing, Rizla cigarette paper used to give about the correct gap. The effect is caused by capillary action so is more noticeable when the shaft is turning in one direction. I have changed from right to a left hand prop on a single prop model, doesn't work with contra rotating twin props where a proper stuffing box at the motor end is required.

I suggest you float in the test tank for an hour or so to see that the hull is watertight. Depending on where the model was stored it is possible the wood may have shrunk. Giving it a good soaking will identify any problems. That said the overall construction look very good and it has not had an IC engine messing up the inside which looks clean and solid so hopefully the hull will be watertight and no re-sealing may be necessary. Advice on re-sealing can be sought if required.

I believe you will need some sort of drop down removeable keel to sail your model especially as it has such a high superstructure and small draught.

Almost certainly an ESC heat/voltage problem
as others have suggested. You could try a smaller prop to reduce the high current draw (150A ??). Experience suggests many ESCs quote max specs far above what is possible for any length of run time but are usually OK up to 50% capacity.

Hi Martin
Could not the Moderators check each link and if unable to contact the club or original poster remove the link? I suspect many were not posted by the Club but a member and it's possible the Club is not aware their details are being shared on this site. I agree if members were to check their local sites and report problems this would speed up the process.

You may find this link of use for the basic international lights according to type
https://glamox.com/upload/2015/11/20/aqua-signal_user-guide-...

https://glamox.com/upload/2015/11/20/aqua-signal_user-guide-navigation-lightsl_2015-16.pdf

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Clubs update their websites and facebook pages on a regular basis so I don't agree the section is not active. Also they do not share contact details without some form of check against bots. Perhaps it is not in the Forum section for a reason.

Most of the Clubs have websites or facebook pages and there is a link on the club details page. Click on this and you can find all the info you require.