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    dave976
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    Member No.#6173
    Registered๐Ÿ“…26th Mar 2021
    Last Online๐Ÿ“…19th Aug 2022
    City๐Ÿ“North West
    Country๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡งUnited Kingdom
    Genderโ™‚๏ธMale
    Age๐Ÿ‘ถNot Provided
    Posts๐Ÿ’ฌ384
    Followers๐Ÿ“ฃ8
    Likes Received๐Ÿ‘666

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    About
    Retired. Happy scratch and kit builder.
    Members Harbour
    Liberty Ship
    A nice scratch built example of this WWII emergency freighter. Recently acquired from a fellow club member and ready to sail.
    Pleasure Cruiser
    This model has sailed with our club for many years and evokes many memories from the 1950/60's when this type of speed boat was raced round the bays in the UK and elsewhere. Cindy and friends seem to be immune to the risks both from the water and the sun. I intend to replace the motor with a small brushless and use a LiPo to reduce the overall weight and improve the performance.
    Three Bros of Rye
    A recent acquistion from a club member, that I sailed and sank and is now restored. Still a few details to add to the deck but ready to sail. Does have a 550 type motor and 35 mm brass prop to get me out of the weeds.
    Esk Belle
    Another model acquired from a former club member. Modelled on the Whitby Bay pleasure cruiser and populated with scale holidaymakers. A delightful small model that always attracts attention. The prop is a racing type two blade which I will replace with brass 3 blade and replace the motor with a 555 type as speed is not a feature of this model. The rudder is also too deep and gets damaged in transit so I will replace or modify to a smaller size.
    Sea Commander
    Recently acquired from a fellow club member. I had restored the model some years ago to display on our club stand but it's in need of some more tlc and I believe I will put a small brushless motor and replace the prop. My Sea Queen sails much better with a brushless.
    Hovercraft
    Semi scale that uses a lift and drive motor. Not used too often as it's too noisy.
    DUKW
    Slightly different but it does float
    Coast Guard Cutter
    My second model of this type of vessel.
    Lady Jan
    Built from a Mobile Marine kit. Very scale appearance and sails realistically. Tows barges and other vessels very well and runs forever. Working lights and Technobots sound unit (ESC: Electronize) (5/10) Brushed car fan motor with 2:1 belt drive
    Al Khubar
    Built from the Model Slipway Kit. Built from the instructions without modification. Used two 550 motors using two belt drive reduction units. Two Action 20 amp escs and two 6v 4.5Ahr SLA's. Originally used the Action mixer unit which worked but changed to two stick operation, my preference. Used to take on water on our lake so I added a coaming round the large flat opening on the rear deck.
    Eldergarth
    Built this from a hull and plan. Uses twin steerable Kortz nozzles made from sheet brass rolled and silver soldered. Twin car fan motors and Electronize ESCs giving spin on the spot control and massive pulling power. Top is all plasticard and has working lights including the arrays for different types of towing.
    Puffer
    This is a nice small version of this type of craft. I acquired some years ago from ebay and apart from some minor tidying up and fitting an ESC, battery and radio it is untouched. I will post a video of this craft on the water.
    Lady T Tug
    Built on the Mobile Marine Hull and using their templates and plans. Nicely detailed but quite skittish in any sort of swell. Looks nice as a display or on the water, but fiddly to set-up for sail.
    Sea Breeze
    This is a small commercial model acquired from a former club member. Nice sail if not to blustery and quick and easy to put on the water as it fits in the car fully rigged, if I have nothing else ready
    "Monarch" Marblehead Yacht
    Another model built on a fibreglass hull made by Brian Clewes. Several years ago our lake was weed free and a couple of feet deeper so it was safe to sail this deep keeled hull. Unfortunately the water level dropped and weed proliferated so sailing was not possible and I sold the boat on. Pity as it was an exciting model to sail especially in a good blow. One picture show my model at an early stage along side Brian's Yacht
    Pond Yacht
    This is another scratch built yacht based on a fibreglass hull made by a club member. Great fun to sail and the old codger has been puffing on his pipe for several years. Uses A hitek winch servo and block in plastic railing for both sails.
    Schooner
    This is a scratch built model using a template my club acquired several years ago. The template is upside down and the hull is planked from Mahogany 1/4" x 3/16 strips with a solid mahogany keel. A Hitek drum winch drives a sliding block in some plastic channel and this controls the two main sails. The last pic shows the general idea, and is from another club members model. A separate lever servo controls to two jibs. The gaff sails can be removed if the wind is bowing a hoolie on our lake. They are very popular and to date I believe our members have constructed about 9 models. This may be because the model easily rides over the weed that invades our waters during the summer months.
    Searcher - 1930s Customs Cutter
    Another hull bought many years ago from the Boat Convention at the Boat Museum in E Port. Came with a plan. Built from wood, mainly mahogany type and most bits scratch built. Powered by a brushed 555. Very stable and can handle some of the roughest weather on our club lake. Flying HM Customs flag and boarding party ready to confront any smugglers. I believe Skelmersdale Models still stock thye hull and plan.
    Brittannia
    Acquired part completed. Fitted with 555 motor and Electronize ESC. Finished off the cabin details and re-rigged the masts. Looks good and sails well on the water.
    Clyde Puffer
    Built on a fibreglass hull bought at a model Show at the Boat Museum. I use a sealed internal tank that floods to provide ballast. I use a fish tank valve to release the air and the boat settles with the weight of the battery. Take the battery out and open the air valve and the water drains out. Makes transport much more feasible.
    Recent Posts
    ๐Ÿ“ Aliphatic resin glue
    4 days ago by dave976 ( Lieutenant)
    Flag
    Without knowing the exact type of glue it is difficult to answer your question. My immediate thought wea cascamite but you mention a bottle which rather rules this out. Most glues have a shelf life and some require you to coat one surface with the glue and the other surface with a setting agent. Many also require that you clamp the two surfaces until set (often 24hrs). As they are water based temperature will play a part but more in respect of the final strength.
    I did Google and found a very informative article on aliphatic glues which may help
    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wood_glue
    I recall dad made me a model boat out of plywood (tea chest) and that was glued with cascamite. I can still recognise the smell after all these years and sailed the model for several years.
    dave976
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    ๐Ÿ“ LiPo Batteries
    10 days ago by dave976 ( Lieutenant)
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    Could it be that your settings are for other than a LiPo say Life? I have a similar unit and have to select the battery type with a button. The small plug in checker should show each cell voltage then the overall voltage.As long as each cell is below 4.2v (more likely 4.15v) all is ok.
    dave 976
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    ๐Ÿ“ LiPo Batteries
    10 days ago by dave976 ( Lieutenant)
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    Just an additional comment re your charger. It has a setting for Hv LiPos which will charge that Hv type of battery to 4.35v. In your case you need to select the LiPo option for 4.2 v max. Also make sure 3 cells are selected. What instrument gave you a voltage of 14.1volts? If it was ther charger it could be faulty. A check with another voltmeter should confirm this. If it is faulty the max charging current might be faulty also. If you need to change I use a Giant Power Intelligent Balance Charger G6AC.
    dave976
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    ๐Ÿ“ LiPo Batteries
    10 days ago by dave976 ( Lieutenant)
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    Sorry to have confused. I was referring to the min discharge voltage. Modern higher capacity batteries now recommend a min discharge of 3.5v per cell. Earlier lower capacity batteries recommended 3v per cell. I use 3.5v as my cut off voltage to preserve the life of my batteries. Suitable ESC's have this as a default setting but are also adjustable to other cut-off voltages. The ESC doesn't cut off completely it just limits the current draw to a sfe low level to allow you to return the model to shore.
    Dave976
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    ๐Ÿ“ LiPo Batteries
    10 days ago by dave976 ( Lieutenant)
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    That charger is quite suitable for your purpose providing you use the main connector and the smaller white balace charge lead.
    dave 976
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    ๐Ÿ“ LiPo Batteries
    11 days ago by dave976 ( Lieutenant)
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    If I could just add to the very good advice already given. LiPos will be damaged if discharged below 3v or higher, this damage is cumulative and involves an irreversible chemical change in the battery. You can buy add on devices that sound a warning when the voltage of a cell drops below the set min voltage but many ESC's now come with built in protection which does a much better job. Water is best kept out of our models whatever battery system we use. I always place all my electrics as high inside the hull as possible as water will always find a way in.
    dave976
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: 3. Old Commodore / Graupner
    12 days ago by dave976 ( Lieutenant)
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    4 wire rc connectors must have been from the DEAC days. Nice set of Robbee motors and connectors.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Schooner Theresa
    14 days ago by dave976 ( Lieutenant)
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    Hi Roy
    PM being sent with more details
    Dave
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Schooner Theresa
    14 days ago by dave976 ( Lieutenant)
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    Beautiful model. We have an almost identical model in our club and that too was built from an enlargement of the plan in FJ Camm's Model Boat Building. I agree the model sails really well and like yours attracts much interest when sailed. It's now with its third club member and I restored leaks in the hull earlier this year by covering the whole hull in fibreglass cloth as the ply used in the keel construction had delaminated too far. Now 100% watertight so worth the effort spent. Pic attached for comparison as well as a page from the book showing the outline.
    dave976
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    ๐Ÿ“ Motor and esc problem
    19 days ago by dave976 ( Lieutenant)
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    A motor can run off a range of voltages but it has a max rating regarding the power it can produce. This is measured in watts and is the product of the voltage applied and the current drawn. So 12v times 5amps = 60watts.
    Increasing either voltage or amps increase the wattage and if you exceed the max the motor will overheat. I suspect your coarse prop is the problem as it is overloading the motor and increasing the current draw. If you change the prop to a smaller diameter and less pitch it will reduce the current drawn and your model will perform much better. Three bladed brass props will give good results and I would avoid the two bladed racing props. As a general guide the prop diameter should be less than the diameter of the motor casing.
    It is a case of trial and selection so good luck.
    dave976
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    ๐Ÿ“ In Halifax, NS
    19 days ago by dave976 ( Lieutenant)
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    Some nice detailed photos for the scale modeller. I already have a built Matchbox kit but acquired an almost started complete kit a few years back and will perhaps build it as the Sackville using the photos. Thanks for sharing,Ron

    Dave976
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    ๐Ÿ“ JOHN HEMMENS LADY JANE
    20 days ago by dave976 ( Lieutenant)
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    Hi Andy
    I have to agree with Nickthesteam on his comments re your boiler and engine.
    Steam plants do need regular maintenance and if in a similar condition to the Lady Jane there is a real possibility that most of the pipes will be blocked and need dismantling and cleaning. The boiler is likely to be heavily scaled inside and you should not attempt to steam it until it has been checked and cleaned and then water Pressure tested by a registered boiler tester. For your own safety please do not attempt to steam the boiler until this safety test has been completed. The fact that the water tank was full of solidified gunk suggests the previous owner was not cleaning down after use. The Hemmens units are well made and usually perform very well if used as designed.
    Hope you can resolve all the issues and get the unit into working condition.
    dave976
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    ๐Ÿ“ Where are you allowed to use with out belonging to a club?
    21 days ago by dave976 ( Lieutenant)
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    You may wish to look at the Useful Links section on this site and scroll to Places. This is a list of Model Boat Clubs and you may see one near your location. Joining a club will help you sail your models safely and at a place that allows model boats, plus you will have the help and expertise of dedicated modellers to help you resolve any issues. Others have mentioned the importance of 3rd part liability insurance which really is a must in our claim society.
    Nice looking models and please ask on this site if you need help and advice in the preparation, but please use a fresh blog with an appropriate heading.
    Good luck
    dave976
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    ๐Ÿ“ Free to a good home.
    22 days ago by dave976 ( Lieutenant)
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    Thank you Nick. I will now use them to fill any gaps in my clubs library of Magazines
    dave976
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    ๐Ÿ“ Hovercraft, is that a dirty word .............
    24 days ago by dave976 ( Lieutenant)
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    Yes most are built from plans. Palaform do provide some kits so may be worth a look.
    dave976
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    ๐Ÿ“ Water up shaft..
    24 days ago by dave976 ( Lieutenant)
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    You should have a thrust washer at either end of your prop shaft to take the horizontal thrust as the prop revolves fwd or rev. This should be a close fit to the bearing and the prop shaft. Use nylon /brass or stainless steel. At one time Rizla cigarette papers were used to set the gap. You should also fit a lock nut between the washer and prop to avoid the prop from spinning off. Same at the other end if the shaft is threaded. This with thin grease/oil will help keep the water from seeping into your model. There is a more efficient method using a stuffing box on the shaft at the motor end but this may not be needed for your occasional use model.
    Please ask if you need further info
    dave976
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    ๐Ÿ“ Hovercraft and other models Sailing at CreweMBC
    25 days ago by dave976 ( Lieutenant)
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    View Video
    I am posting this video as it shows more of our Hovercraft in action from about 1:01 on.
    dave976
    CDMBC_2May2022
    โ–ถ๏ธ
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    ๐Ÿ“ Hovercraft, is that a dirty word .............
    25 days ago by dave976 ( Lieutenant)
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    We have one or two Hovercraft in our club. Brian Clewes has been building them for many years and is an inspiration to others in the Club. I attach a few pics of some of his hovercraft and you can see one in action at
    https://youtu.be/VEY-DyXanqk
    In our weed infested ponds they provide a way to sail (hover) at any time and are welcome additions to our boating fraternity.
    dave 976
    https://youtu.be/VEY-DyXanqk
    ๐Ÿ”—
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Liberty Ship
    29 days ago by dave976 ( Lieutenant)
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    Nice looking model Rowen. It is always refreshing to hear that pictures of models inspires others to build.
    Dave
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Liberty Ship
    29 days ago by dave976 ( Lieutenant)
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    I agree Nerys. Built in large numbers by our friends over the pond and used to ship vast amounts of goods and munitions in our time of need. They were I believe stacked high on deck with munitions and vehicles and my example depicts a typical post war livery version. May be when I complete the Robert E Peary it will be in wartime livery complete with deck cargo, I seem to remember there were many military scale vehicles which my friend Bill Handy had purchased.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Feeling a little better about the project.
    29 days ago by dave976 ( Lieutenant)
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    A good example of why you should always fix your model frames to a good stout board to keep everything aligned
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Liberty Ship
    1 month ago by dave976 ( Lieutenant)
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    Yes but not by me. Built some years ago by my friend Bill who now resides in a care home. I suspect he made a plug and mould and cast his hull in fibreglass. The motor is a 55 brushless and the prop a 3 blade brass which he made himself. It requires about 2lb of lead to ballast and this is held in gaffer tape and marked for position so is removeable to make transport much easier and helps avoid damage. I have a Dean's kit of the Robert E Peary part built by another club member who found it too challenging. On the back burner with several other models. I need more hours in the day.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Liberty Ship
    1 month ago by dave976 ( Lieutenant)
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    A nice scratch built example of this WWII emergency freighter. Recently acquired from a fellow club member and ready to sail.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Pleasure Cruiser
    1 month ago by dave976 ( Lieutenant)
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    This model has sailed with our club for many years and evokes many memories from the 1950/60's when this type of speed boat was raced round the bays in the UK and elsewhere. Cindy and friends seem to be immune to the risks both from the water and the sun. I intend to replace the motor with a small brushless and use a LiPo to reduce the overall weight and improve the performance.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Three Bros of Rye
    1 month ago by dave976 ( Lieutenant)
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    A recent acquistion from a club member, that I sailed and sank and is now restored. Still a few details to add to the deck but ready to sail. Does have a 550 type motor and 35 mm brass prop to get me out of the weeds.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Esk Belle
    1 month ago by dave976 ( Lieutenant)
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    Another model acquired from a former club member. Modelled on the Whitby Bay pleasure cruiser and populated with scale holidaymakers. A delightful small model that always attracts attention. The prop is a racing type two blade which I will replace with brass 3 blade and replace the motor with a 555 type as speed is not a feature of this model. The rudder is also too deep and gets damaged in transit so I will replace or modify to a smaller size.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Sea Commander
    1 month ago by dave976 ( Lieutenant)
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    Recently acquired from a fellow club member. I had restored the model some years ago to display on our club stand but it's in need of some more tlc and I believe I will put a small brushless motor and replace the prop. My Sea Queen sails much better with a brushless.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Ship's boat
    1 month ago by dave976 ( Lieutenant)
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    Hi Nerys
    Just spoken to Chris, he is semi retired but still does some hulls and has some 7". His details are: Chris Brown
    Brynsawdde, Llangadog, Carmarthenshire, SA19 9PR
    Tel: 01550 777574 Mobile: 07971 718904 .
    He does not have a website you can order from but will deal over the telephone.
    Hope you can get what you want.
    Cheers
    Dave
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    ๐Ÿ“ Ship's boat
    1 month ago by dave976 ( Lieutenant)
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    Hi Nerys
    Chris Wyn Brown has a selection that may suit.
    http://www.christopher-wyn-brown.co.uk/modelboats/page2.html

    dave976
    http://www.christopher-wyn-brown.co.uk/modelboats/page2.html
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    ๐Ÿ“ First post, and question
    1 month ago by dave976 ( Lieutenant)
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    It's a Vosper Sea Plane Tender.
    Google Vosper Sea Plane Tender. There are a few variants but your model certainly fits the general details. In the 1950's we tended to do much scratch building and it is possible your Grandfather did just that. As you say it is not a scale representation but follows the general design and shape. There were several manufacturers around and some plans so unless you have further details it will be difficult to decide its provenance. It has certainly restored to a nice model and will draw attention when you sail. We have one in our club and I attach a pic for info.

    dave976
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