Hi JB
I agree with most of your comments with one exception.
Any puffiness in a LiPo cell indicates misuse and irreversible damage to internal components resulting in the release of gases into the sealed cell. Putting in the fridge will cool the gas which will contract in volume and may appear to repair the problem - it won't. On re-use the battery will heat up and puff up and eventually split the seal and self destruct when the air reaches the internal components and results in a chain reaction.
The most serious types of misuse are:
overcharging by a very small amount (0.1v) which can be avoided by using a balanced charger set to the correct battery type, number of cells and capacity;
discharging below the safe voltage, typically 3.5v per cell. A LiPo safe ESC will allow you to set this voltage so that reduced power is enabled allowing safe return to shore;
not discharging to the storage voltage (3.7v per cell) if not using for any length of time (1+ weeks);
common sense as you describe cover the other issues and I would add do not or charge or use the battery if it is too hot to touch.
I agree entirely with your last para.
dave976

It sounds like you did not connect the balance lead to your charger and possibly did not select the correct voltage/current and battery type on your charger.
A 4 cell Lipo would have been delivered with the storage voltage of 14.8v. Fully charged 16.8v max.
LiPo chargers can be configured to charge different types of Lithium based batteries and it is important to select the correct type as well as the number of cells and capacity. This then sets all the inbuilt protection circuits.
I agree they are not for everyone and should never be charged unattended or in a domestic dwelling. Good that you had the battery in a charging bag and you did not suffer any personal injury.
dave976

Hi Jim
I have followed an almost identical route and have had a Radiomaster for a couple of years.
Recently upgraded to Edge Tx from Open Tx and now have full touch screen control. As you say the fact that you can use with almost all other manufacturers receivers means you can continue to use such kit and only need to remember one Tx.
dave976

As it's 1:32 ply and if the water has penetrated then I believe you have no option other than to remove the whole deck and recover. Ply of the same thickness would be the easiest to use and planks marked as per the original. Removal will require some care and I would work from the mid points of the decks and chisel them away up to the edges. If you have a vibrating saw this would help remove the majority of the wood. You may need to add some stringers to mount the new deck .Once recovered with new wood the model should be good for another 50 years.
dave976

Anything you select under your account options will be blue in colour. You need to switch off any options you do not wish to receive notifications. ie not blue highlight.
dave976

I believe you may be able to get some deck guns from Mike McGuinn
http://www.modelboatconvention.co.uk/Trader_Michael_McGuinn....
He doesn't have a website but his phone number (uk) is on the link.
dave976

http://www.modelboatconvention.co.uk/Trader_Michael_McGuinn.html

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Some years ago a former site member posted a blog on how he made a Fire Hydrant. You can view this under Build Blogs and search for Fire Hydrant.
dave976

Hi Brian
I think you will find that the Radiomaster is capable of doing all the switching and latching functions via its programming, and liked to any stick, knob or control button. I have dabbled with the Arduino but it is perhaps getting past its sell by date in electronics terms.
As regards twin throttle sticks I suspect the market never developed to make marketing a viable option for manufacturers. I have seen 3D printed versions but suspect they are not as close tolerance as the Hall effect sticks now used.
regard
dave

Hi Brian
The Radiomaster is truly a great piece of kit and the internal programming features will fulfil all your modelling needs.
Edge Tx is now shipped with newer models but I need to update mine as it still uses open Tx which has not fully implemented the touch screen capabilities. I also upgraded the look by purchasing some bling that also improves the operation of all the controls, pic attached.
dave

Hi Brian
I did look to see if my original post was still showing but as the kit I used is no longer available I suspect Martin removed my post. As you say it is now available as the XHT via the link I posted.
GiantCod was the main supplier but long gone under that name.
FrSky has changed over the years and whilst I was a big fan I now use FlySky for most of my boats as it meets most of my requirements.
I have a Radiomaster set which has excellent gimbals and with built in modules to cover pretty well any 2.4Ghz transmission available as well as using Open Tx or the newer Edge Tx (FrSky can also use) I prefer to the non backward compatible FrSky latest offerings.
At least the kit you have is compatible with most of the earlier offerings including the X series.
If you remove the Xtal from your set that will stop the oscillator and should reduced the power drawn.
dave

Hi Brian
Several years ago I posted on the Mayhem site detailing how I modified an F14 using the FrSky module. This has been updated and can be purchased from
https://www.t9hobbysport.com/frsky-xht-accst-d8-diy-module
You will also need a FrSky receiver.
It is a relatively simple task for anyone with good soldering skills and the ability to find a suitable earth and positive supply on the Tx. The only other connector is the signal connection that goes to the Tx section on the board. The original power Tx section is best disconnected to save battery power. However I used a dual pole switch so the Tx could be used on 2.4Ghz or 40 Mhz.
There are quite a few posts with pics on the Mayhem site under the "Black Arts" section that show the connections to be made. U-tube also have useful how to videos.
Good to see others are upgrading their kit to 2.4Ghz use.
dave976

https://www.t9hobbysport.com/frsky-xht-accst-d8-diy-module

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Hi RodC
I agree it is unwise to connect batteries in Parallell for the reasons you state. You may well be able to use power diodes with SLA and NiMh batteries but this should not be used with LiPo's as their characteristics require close attention to each cells voltage.
Overcharging or discharging any one cell can cause irreversible damage and in the worst case destruction of the cell and battery pack.
LiPo's are available in very high capacitys and unless you are into high speed endurance racing I doubt if you would not be able to source a battery suitable for most sport usage.
Used correctly LiPo's are safe for model use but I agree you should be aware of the issuses should you not follow the correct procedures when using or charging.
dave976

This site was originally The Fireboat Website largely devoted to the RAF Crash Tenders of the 1950's and earlier era.
There is a reference section under Plans& Docs still on this site as well as many build blogs if you type search for "Crash Tender".
All the information you require is freely available so please take time to view what is available.
Regarding advertisers I'm sure they all need all the help and support we as modellers can provide. The recent lockdowns and world events have disrupted many supply chains so perhaps we should expect to experience a few shortages in the short term. I doubt it would help anyone were they to stop advertising altogether.
Hope you can find answers to all the issues with your build.
dave976

Good to see a traditionally built model hull. This is a skill that develops over succesive builds and provides hours of pleasure in the process. Please keep posting your progress as your build progresses.
dave976

Possibly due to the size of the picture uploaded or perhaps the sites own upload pic compression is faulty. If so I'm sure Fireboat will fix any issue.
Could be a virus or app on your machine, there are many about, and are often uploaded when you visit a site and agree to accept cookies.
I routinely clear my cookies, website visited and cache from both Google and Edge if my PC is going slow.
dave976

Chance are the water has impregnated far more than you can see. From my experience with models of a similar age and provenance and as others have said you need to remove all the paint back to the original wood to see exactly where the damage has occurred. You need to replace any hull part that is no longer sound and as Peejay says cover the whole hull with a fine layer of thin glass cloth and fix with either layup resin or similar (Eze Kote from DeLuxe materials) to provide a watertight hull. You can then rub to a smooth finish and apply primer and top coat. Modern paints are much different from the enamel paints and easily available from most suppliers.
dave976

Hi Westward
The Robbe kit is now sold as a Krick Romarin Dusseldorf. Cornwall models sell this kit and it has, I believe, two KRICK MAX GEAR 540 TYPE MOTOR 2.5:1. You can see the specs at:
https://www.hobbies.co.uk/krick-max-gear-540-type-motor-2-5-...
If this is your motor set up then I suspect an SLA 12v 12Ahr was used as you can also fit working fittings which will increase the current required so will benefit from an SLA, which will also act as ballast for this large model.
I suggest you contact Cornwall Model Boats, who sell the Krick Romarin and ask what battery they suggest for your Robbe Dusseldorf.
However, if you search "Boat Harbour" on this site for Robbe Dusseldorf you will find three member's models and lots of details that will help with your model.
Good luck and please post some details of your model so we can see how you progress.
Dave976

https://www.hobbies.co.uk/krick-max-gear-540-type-motor-2-5-1

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Hi Westward
The actual motor and ESC details are also needed to answer your question. Are you saying your model is the Robbe Dusseldorf?
Dave976

Hi Westward
I do believe we have a section on this site called Boat Harbour where members have provided details and pictures of their models.
I can understand your desire for some form of register but this would be a mammoth undertaking and the upkeep doesn't bear thinking about. I maintain my own club's website and we have a section showing all our past and present member models. Should you have the odd hour or two to spare you are welcome to visit
http://www.crewembc.info/
Initially do have a look at the Boat Harbour section as there are many6 models shown that will, I'm sure, whet you appetite.
dave976

http://www.crewembc.info/

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Hi Ron
Nice looking model. The on water pics indicate that your ballast provides the right waterline so adding more may not be a possibility. On our club schooners the fore mast is usually canted forward with the rear mast vertical to the hull. This will affect the metapoint so we use this method to fine tune the model depending on the conditions.
I suspect you will need to increase the keel depth by an inch or two, as others have indicated, to allow the weight to be lower in the water. The model does appear to be quite tender even in light winds and a lower keel weight will solve this problem. I test my yachts in the water by pushing sideways on the top of the mast and if there is only slight resistance 9easily pushed with your little finger) I adjust accordingly. I don't have an actual measurement but if you have ever used a brolly on a windy day you will know how strong the wind can be.
I wish our lake was as clear as yours.
dave976

Hi Westward
Welcome to the site.
Motors for model boats are very varied and some are economy types that draw low current whilst others are aimed at the sports fast sailor and can be very high current users.
Batteries for the main power are usually of the rechargeable type but dry cells were also used when I started modelling in the 1950's.
SLA (sealed lead acid) types are best suited for larger models as they are heavy and serve as useful ballast also. Typically 6 or 12 volts and amperage in the smaller sizes up to about 12 amp but car motorcle/wheelchair/Leisure types can provide much higher currents.
NiMh (Nickel Metal Hydride) have replaced NiCad types but both offer a range suitable for model use. They are similar in shape to Dry-cells but have a nominal voltage of 1.2 volts and a fully charged voltage of 1.4 volts. They can be made up into packs giving typical values of 4.8v, 6.0v,7.2v etc and typically up to 12v but higher values can be made. Current ranges are from milliamps up to high amps and are good for most models.
LiPo are the latest technology and are both light weight and very powerful. They are popular across all modelling types and offer the best performance.
They do need to be treated with respect and within very strict parameters regarding charging and discharging. This can be achieved by using a suitable balanced charger and an ESC (electronic speed control) with a built in cut off that reduces the power drawn below a set voltage (typically 3.5v per cell on modern batteries). The nominal cell voltage is 3.7v per cell with the fully charged max of 4.2v per cell. Storage voltage should be 3.7v as the battery is in its most balanced and stable state at that voltage.
They should never be left charging unattended and you can buy special charging bags to protect you in the event of any malfunction.
I store my LiPo packs in an ex army metal container with a loose fitting lid.
To answer your question we do need to know what model you are building and the actual motor (brushed or brushless) you intend to use. The size of the prop will have a big effect on the max current drawn.
Hope this helps
dave976

HI BG
Since posting my previous reply I remembered that some years ago I used a similar system in my Aerokits Solent lifeboat. I was using a Bob's board to control both motors and two channel radio. My problem was that the long protruding keel on the model was overcoming the rudders, so the model would turn about 45deg then swiftly revert to going straight ahead. I managed to use two microswitches controlled by the rudder servo to switch off the inner prop motor when turning and it worked.
This was only disconnecting the motor and I used to slow down when turning so no high currents flowing. Pics attached to show my set up and the model.
I still do not recommend switching from forwards to reverse but stopping the inner motor in a turn is certainly a possibility.
dave976

Hi Nick
I feel I must point out that the USA and Canada use the AWG imperial system whereas the UK changed to a metric system. SWG is still in common use in the UK but is really thy British Standard Wire Gauge which is metric.
The AWG and SWG are different as are the ratings.
The general information given is correct but please be aware of this difference.
Many suppliers will give the current rating for electrical wire they sell so you can ensure you have the correct wire for your purpose.
dave976

The simple answer is the wire gauge needs to be capable of carrying the max current the circuit will draw. Good practice is then to protect the wire by using a fuse that blows below this max.
Receiver circuits normally only draw one or two amps whereas motors/ESCs can draw considerably more from say 5amp up.
Your ESC will have a max current rating and the 14 SWG wire is to meet that max. If you motor is of a lower power rating then yes you can use a smaller size but normal practice would be to use an SWG capable of carrying double the max current the motor can draw. You would use a fuse of a lesser rating to protect this thinner wire.
dave976

Hi BG
Relays and switches have many uses and will reverse the polarity to your motors. However this should only be used when the power is being applied for the first time and never when the motor is revolving with or without power. A revolving motor will have a considerable amount of energy in the drive train and sudden stopping and reversing will place a great strain on the electrical components not to mention the mechanical strain on the connectors and prop. You risk damaging the ESC and losing your prop and possibly damaging the motor. Whilst brushed motors can have their rotation reversed by changing the polarity, brushless motors are connected by three leads and direction can be reversed by swopping any two of the three. This is done with the power off so not possible as you suggest.
You have not said which 6 ch Tx you are using but many modern sets allow for some programming which is perfectly feasible and is used by many modellers.
Please ask for more details if your Tx is programable?
dave976

Hi Lew
Like you I have used both joysticks for "tank control" of two motors. As an ex RC flyer I had no problem with using multiple sticks. I use mode 2 so the left vertical stick is the standard motor control and mine are all free moving (no spring), I adjust the centre manually. The right vertical stick is used for the second motor, and the right horizontal stick for the rudder. I control by advancing the left stick just a little and then move the right sticks to increase speed and correct direction. I then adjust both vertical sticks to cruise speed and thereafter can easily control the model with just the right sticks. On my RMS Olympic I use the right horizontal stick, but only when approaching max speed. For a fast boat I would use the mixing facilities to advantage. On a fast PT type boat it is wise, as you say, to reduce speed on the inner prop when turning and mixing the rudder with the two props makes control a doddle. I like the idea of using a switch as forward is the only direction used, and my brain struggles with remembering which direction to push the stick! I have used the Taranis Tx but FlySky is easier to use and if you really want the latest the Radiomaster is replacing the Taranis as it has multiple protocol output built in.
dave976

Go to your account on the site and you will see at the bottom of the page a couple of sections re notifications. You can turn off individual items you no longer wish to see and save the result. I was having similar problems and this solved it for me
dave976

Certainly being seen across the world and will continue with current policies which all seem to have one theme, but does not tackle the issues.
Cash has been in decline for quite some years as people switch to electronic payment systems. This encourages on-line or weekly/monthly shopping at large stores often in a new business park remote from the town centre. Traffic congestion was always an issue in many towns so local government made them pedestrianised with costly parking charges. The inevitable result was reduced footfall and the demise of many town centres, including our hobby shops.
There are in the UK some really good online retailers and they have knowledgeable and helpful staff. Youngsters really benefit from seeing a model boat to tweak their desire and sadly this can only now be seen at a model show of which there are few.
If you have a model Boat club near then they will provide a source of knowledge and encouragement. My own club obtained a schooner building template some years ago and I believe we now have ten or more built by members.
I doubt if modelling as a hobby will disappear but the individual interests will continue to evolve which should ensure all modellers can continue to enjoy their particular preference.
Dave976

Hi Jordan
I believe you have received good advice on several methods to produce your model.
Another very important consideration is the scale and size of model that you have space to build and can transport.
So you really need to ensure your model fits these boundaries.
Initially I suspect you will not be attempting an exact true scale as this is more suitable for the more experienced so a stand off scale allows a bit more flexibility in adapting to size.
Once you know the max size you need to invest in a good solid flat building board. You then mark a solid line down the centre along the longest length. This will provide you with a fixed datum line from which you can check all measurements. I mark the prow and stern positions to ensure I keep to my max size after allowing for any plank / skin covering thickness.
I usually build my hulls upside down but you can build from keel up. Mark the individual former distances on the board and use a set square to extend a line at each point to the board edges. I add small blocks of wood either side of each former along the outside edges to keep all square.
Prepare cardboard masters from your plan and check them for accuracy on the centre line and to the edge. This will also indicate any misplacement of the keel / stringers which you can correct.
If all is correct you can cut formers from wood (or chosen material) and should have a good starting point to start constructing your hull.
There are many build blogs on this site that have detailed the process, but I attach a couple of pics of my RMS Olympic and Bill Lucy's RMS Titanic under construction using this method.
Happy building and please ask if you need any clarification.
dave976

I agree with Graham. However I do believe that the wiring to the switch is polarity sensitive so follow the very clear instructions that you posted earlier. I have had a similar problem with a Chinese unit so yours could be the same.
dave976