Mobile Marine Christmas Market invites modelers to bring and buy model boat sales as well as stall holders. Opens at 10am closes at 4pm. I will have several boats for sale, River Dance shown in my harbour and several others and a lifeboat kit of plastic. Other members of our group will be bringing another 12 models and further kits. Full address:- The Boat Shed, Highcliffe Park, Ingham Cliff, Lincoln, Lincolnshire, LN1 2YQ ...Free parking.🤓 Their advert:- CHRISTMAS CRACKER......... staged at the factory of Mobile Marine Models, this now very popular British Manufacturers Show is the one day CHRISTMAS market, giving you, the boat modeller, the opportunity to 'get' those last minute items for the festive seaons building!!!! .......from... the many various manufacturers that we are able to 'cram-into' the factory........including Dean's Marine; SHG ; Little Model ; Tony Green Steam ; ModelBoat Mayhem .... and quite a few more ........
Hi, We sail on a Wednesday and Sunday. During the lighter days it is 5.30pm, when the evenings close in it is 2pm. You must have £5million public liability insurance and a letter of permission from the local council. Hope this helps.
HI and welcome to MMBG. You will need public liability and permission from East Lindsey Council before you can sail with us. It is very easy to obtain PL ins. by joining The Model Power Boat Assn. Send your membership card with covering letter to the council, bring your membership card and council letter to us for confirmation of your membership. Very easy and I can supply you with forms if you wish. . Suggest you phone me for a chat 01507 475946. Regards Victor👍
Hi John, Suggest you sand as this will flatten the planking, no doubt each plank has curved slightly as the wood had dried out. Hoover out all the dust from the cracks and fill with a mahogany filler and re-flatten. The inside of the hull will also need varnishing to stop the wood drying out again. Would not advise wetting the planking to raise the grain as is normal practice as this might swell the wood and loose the filler. First use a good quality polyurathene varnish, brushed on but avoid runs, lightly sand to give a key before recoating. At this stage do not worry about the brush strokes showing. After at least 8 coats use wet and dry paper to sand the surface flat. Now apply a yacht varnish that does not dry so quickly and brush strokes will on the whole disappear. I suggest at least 3 coats to finish lightly wet and dry between coats. The more coats you give the deeper the shine. Use a good quality brush, a cheap brush drops hairs and does not give a smooth finish. If you look at my harbour and look at 'River Dance' you will see the finish this method can achieve. Good luck and hopes this helps. Vic
Hi Keith, On all my boat building I use a thick superglue, CA1500 thick grade Super Glue 1 x 500gm, supplied by a company in Hull Lincolnshire contact details ' www.sureloc-direct.co.uk. It is industrial strength and can be bought in small quantities but cheaper bought in the large 500gm size, if you ask they will supply small bottles to decant it into, if you don't ask you will not get them. I use it for plank on hull construction, deck planking, general construction etc. The only other glue I use is 2 part epoxy for sealing in prop tubes to the hull. If you want an immediate contact use an accelerator that is supplied in a spray can you only need a minute amount of spray on one or both surfaces. I have used this glue to fix the rubber around club 500s, speed boats and cruisers. I normally start at the centre of the aft, if you want the rubber to be level with the deck use a short flat piece of plastic or wood laid (guide) on the deck holding it so it just sticks out from the hull and butt the rubber up to this as you stick it on to the hull. To start lay a thin layer of superglue in the centre of the rubber for about 2", lightly press it in position and remove immediatly, quickly lightly spray accelerator and immediatly reposition accuratly. Continue around the hull using your 'Guide' to accuratly position each section. As you familierize yourself with the proceedure you will probably find you can glue 6" or so at a time. Make sure that you do not stretch the rubber especially around the corners. Hope this helps. Vic
Mobile Marine Bonanza Day from 10am, Great day out, food stall on site, Trade stands and displays from local Clubs. No entry fee. Site is near Lincoln show ground. Mobile Marine have their own web site locate it on Google for more details.👍
Hi Patto, Sounds like you aught to be running on a decent lipo. The motor is probably taking more amps out of the battery than it can maintain. Lipos are much much lighter than lead acid and can give a higher discharge rate. The dicharge rate is the 'C' rating of the lipo, the higher the number the greater the discharge capacity. If the 'C' rating is too low the battery will start swelling up and its life expectancy greatly reduced. Go for the highest you can afford with the greatest capacity and always use an alarm with the battery, it plugs into the little white plug and can be set so when the battery gets to a set voltage an alarm sounds indicating to stop using it until it is recharged. A 3 cell will give you the required 12volts. The 'C' rating now goes up to 130 in the more expensive lipos but an 80 will probably suffice. The higher the amperage of the lipo the longer running you will get. A 2500 may only give you 8-10 minutes whilst a 4500 (cost just under £50) will give you up to 20 mins. You will have to check your speed controller to make sure it is compatable with lipos, a few are not. Remember you will need a balanced Lipo charger, I only spend about £20 or less but they only charge lipos, quite often the more expensive ones will charge a variety of battery types. I'm not an expert on electronics my knowledge comes through personel experience. With the lipo you will get better performance as the lead acid weighs the boat down. Good luck.
Hi, Can anyone help with a set of plans for the paddle boat 'Sirius'? I have been presented with a very, very delapidated model in need of more than a little TLC. It is little more than a tatty hull and a few bits. Happy to pay for the plans. Thanks, Victor 01507 475946
I've taken a very careful look at the deck plan and looking at the aft picture the grain on the wood is so consistant that I believe it could have been penciled in. If you do decide to pencil the curve calking in you may want to make a jig to mark the planking. I suggest making a 'T piece. make the top of the 'T' about 30mm long with 2 small blocks at the end of the 'T' these will follow the edge of the deck. On the long side of the 'T' mark and drill a series of small holes at the plank width to accept the pencil lead. Use the jig by holding the jig against the side of the hull starting near one end and scribe one plank at a time by moving the jig along the length of the hull. Repeat the procedd for the other side. Hope this helps.
Suggestion is that you do not curve the wood by bending but glue several pieces side by side to cover the area. lay it on the deck to just overlap the sides and then scribe a line on the assembled strips following the edge of the deck. Cut off the excess and then scribe a further arc 4mm in. Cut off the excess, sand edges and trim ends to suit. Glue in position. before repeating for the next section. Again look at my harbour for 'River Dance' her edging strips were done in the same manor as described above. Bending strips the way you want is tricky and the wood will tend to twist as you attempt to bend it.
HI cormorant, With narrow planking you might be as well to pencil in corking as otherwise the corking strips could look too heavy and disproportional. Don't try and make the pencil lines too dense when varnished they will be intensified and look false. A collet pencil with ejector leads will keep lines more consistant than pencils that you sharpen. Buy a selection of hardness leads, 2H, H and HB should suffice and practice on a trial piece first. Remember the lead lines will smudge if handled so all sanding and prep work must be done before hand. On a sample you may want to apply a diluted coat of varnish applied with a cloth to lightly seal the surface first, let it dry befor applying calking lines. Another method is to blacken the edges of your decking strips first before laying again try on a few offcuts to see which way you prefer.
HI Cororant, A tip whilst planking your boat. I do not know the planking layout so my advice will be general. First do any edge planking, Make card templates for areas that require a curved section. Join sections of planking edge to edge to cover the template and then traceround the template on your glued sections. Sand to obtain a good curve keeping the inside edge perfectly square or slightly undercut. Spray accellerator on the deck, apply CA1500to the underside of the edging. carefully position once accelerator has dried and roll down firmly with wall papering edge roller and wipe off any surplus glue with a dry cloth. Don't use a wet cloth oyerwise the glue will set immediatly and turn white. Complete rest of edging in a simular way. Cut and lay any other edging such as around a hatch cover, strips down the centre of hull etc. Now for the styrene strips to represent calking. Cut the strips of styrene wider than the thickness of your wood planking, they can be reduced with a sharp blade and sanded later . Start from the bow and lay the calking around the strips already laid. Only use a thin bead of glue and work on a few inches at a time. All done now for the main planking. Shape your first plank shaping it to fit snugly against the calking. Before glueing in place do a dry run and mark the deck where the plank will lay. Remove the plank and spray the back. Apply a small amount of CA1500 against the calking and another bead near the centre, do not apply any at the outside edge at this time. Fit the plank rollering it into place. Cut the next piece of calking strip and next plank and do a dry fit and again scribe the deck. Now apply CA 1500 to the 1st plank edge, and lay calking strip immediatly apply another bead to the inside of the calking and lay the 2nd plank pushing it hard against the 1st sandwiching the calking strip. Never apply CA to the outside edge of the plank before cutting the next calk and plank, if you do and it sets you will end up with residue glue setting that will then either set on the deck or sticking the next calking strip or planking whilst you are shaping it. IE. always leave the working edge dry. Complete process for the remainder of the planking. Hope this is of some help.
Try using high viscosity cyanoacrylate CA1500 from Surelocdirect.com based in Hull. This is a thick superglue and a brilliant product, can go off virtually instantaneously if used with an accelerator. Besides epoxy this is the only glue I use. Have built complete plank on frame hulls, mahogany decking with plasticard inlay, see my harbour, River Dance and Katie. It is also totally waterproof. Do not be tempted to use cheap superglues. I buy the 500 gram bottle and decant as required into smaller 50gm bottles that they supply foc. I have today ordered my 3rd 500gm bottle at £33.69 and have been modelling boat building for just 3 years. Good luck, don't stick yourself to the boat. LOL
HI Frank, Dumas is American, many of these old boats are quite rare and are worth a bit of TLC. I picked one up on Ebay that was a wreck, a little longer than yours and has another deck, I believe it is shown in my pictures. I fitted quite a powerful brushless outrunner and it cuts through the water beautifully. I would question the use of the existing motor as it likely to use more current than a more modern one especialy if you go brushless. If more pics of my upgrade will help you just ask. Vic
I took the amperage from an identical looking motor on eBay so may be a bit of incorrect info. When I get into the electronics side, as you may have gathered, I am 'at sea' so to speak. Own amplifier and feed back servo, not a clue I fear to say. I will have to stick to what I know. As for the correct size prop it is hand made and only 10mm, yes 10mm in diameter, I have had to glue it in place. There is no room for anything larger, I will show pics of this later. I think it is smaller than an old farthing coin, and that's giving my age away. lol. I believe proportional speed control is preferable especially when turning a craft that is very narrow for its length. On another note I will probably change the balancing lead on the lipo male plug for a female that means I can glue it in place hidden under the superstructure. Doing this will mean The 4 x 2mm gold sockets and the female balancing socket will all be flush, again pics later as things progress.
HI Guys, The ideas keep flowing in and thanks, I do use magnets a lot and buy them in bulk from China. If you look at 'River Dance' in 'My Harbour' all the dolls are held in place by magnets, one behind the seats and the other stuck onto their backs under their clothing. On this warship the higher part of the superstructure is already held in place by magnets possible allowing access to the lipo balance lead. Until the wiring route has been finalized I will not cut out any access holes as I feel the need to make it as waterproof as possible, hence I decided to glue the deck on with silicone, making it removable in emergency. No doubt this tiddler will be on a pond with slightly larger boats and if the deck was only held in by magnets any wash from other craft might enter the hull and blow the electrics. To the other point the superstructure is hollow and that is where I intend getting access to the required electrical connections. There are 2 possible access areas and until I assemble these individual assembles to see any restrictions I cannot be sure of the size. One access point may be sufficient. As for batteries I have no experience of the Lion type and what is required in the way of charges. I use Lipos a lot and have only blown one up and that was inside the 'Minx' also in 'My Harbour', it has 2 x 850 motors in and when testing it for the first time only had 1 lipo fitted, I simply tried to take too much from it and it blew up! So again thanks for the suggestion but the lipos fits in snugly and gives just the right amount of ballast, just luck. Thanks again guys will keep you in the loop and will update pics, next week. Vic
[Score: 5/10] 12" A Russian Warship Single Propellor Direct Drive Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) Batteries Controlled Through 10 amp ESC - Comments: This is a Russian plastic kit, 30cm long. The prop is handmade as it is only 10mm in diam, funny prop selection does not go down to this size, why? 500mAh lipo, also not shown in battery rating. The receiver is Spektrum. I have had to mount the rudder servo so the arm points downwards any other way protrudes above the deck. The rudder and linkage is also hand made. The deck will be glued in place, possibly with a silicone so that it could be removed in the event of a disaster. Pictures will be updated until it sinks! lol. Why am I trying to convert it to RC you may ask? Because I was told for a first attempt at converting a plastic model don't do a warship as there is no room inside, the challenge was just too tempting.
Thanks for reminding me that there is a constant drain on the battery from the ESC, I had forgotten that point. It is impossible to get the switch in, remember the boat is only 300mm long and 30mm wide and at the tallest point in the super structure from the hull bottom is only 35mm. The whole length of the keel from aft is taken up with, rudder, link and servo, then the speed controller that is mounted over the shaft, then the motor followed by the 2 cell lipo and finally the receiver leaving about 10mm at 'the sharp' end. Any switches and access for charging has to be somewhere in the superstructure of the boat. I think I am coming around to thinking of 4 x 2mm gold connectors, 2 to the battery and 2 to the ESC, links would connect the lives and neutral whilst the boat is in operation. The link will be removed and extension leads plugged in to the battery connections for charging. The balance lead would be fixed under another part of the superstructure that was made removable and an extension plugged into this for charging. I will add this to my fleet at a later date showing the construction. Any other suggestions that would take up less room would be welcome but thank you everyone for your help, some very valid points have raised that I have included in the build. Vic
The Speed Controller is 10 amp max, the very small motor pulls a shade over 3 amps. I can see the benefit of a double pole switch but on this size model it may be impossible to fit one and still get access to it. I am having to open up part of the superstructure and the max opening I think I can get is 15mm x 25mm,
Thanks Dave, With such a small craft, only 30mm wide, I have no option but to charge the battery in the boat but it will be charged in a metal box in case of a fire but I believe you have answered my question, the ESC may be damaged. I will have to look at the possibility of swapping the connections, another challenge! Regards Vic
I am converting a 300mm long plastic kit for RC working, problem is that the battery has to be charged inside the boat and is inaccessible. Question is, if I connect the battery and speed controller in the normal way and then connect an extra L&N charging lead to the battery that I can make accessible for charging will I damage the 10 amp speed controller when using this lead to charge the battery. Obviously the balancing lead will be accessible. Thanks for any input.
Hi, At the moment I am relocating my hobby room, grown out of my old one, but will strip it, test the shaft, clean it and replace with oil as soon as I am able. Do you get any water getting into the hull from the prop shaft? Have you replaced your bearings at all and if so with what? Thanks, Vic
HI Dave, I never new that some plastics were water cooled so I think you could be on the right track. Problem is though Slipway do provide an optional greaseing tube which indicates that grease is ok. Without packing the tube with grease water enters the boat via the tube. Problem is if the bearings need water to stop them seizing how do you get water to the top bearing (one nearest the motor) without water getting into the boat? Has anyone thought of a Club 500 air boat? LOL Vic