Hi One & All Back in 1997 I purchased two vacform hull for a 1/72 Clyde Puffer along with the drawings from Sarik (drawing MM1410), as we have been having some bad weather of late and due to their size they started to look like a good boat to start building in the house. (just to keep warm), over the last few weeks I have joined the two half’s of the hull, fitted the motor and shaft, alone with the deck, I have made a mistake when it comes to fixing the rudder, I should have made some form of fixing that went into the hull, so that the rudder had some were to fasten to, (will sort that out later on in the build) also I need to make some form of support for the shaft as I think it will in time work its way lose, moving on, the stern deck has been started and over half has now been planked. Fred

Just having a play with an idea for a model of a early Russian KS 100D general purpose work boat. These were used for river work towing logs etc in shallow rivers . The water jet is unusual, as it has a rear shute with twin rudder type deflectors, and rear hull side ports for reverse (independent controls for each port). Someone on the site mentioned a steam powered water pump driven ship from the 1800s ? a while back on the site which used a similar principal. The boats were made by the Yaroslavl shipyard, and were very common in the late 50s till (I think) the 70s. Not much info on them but a few guys have rebuilt old ones for pleasure boats. They have a speed of around 16-18knts and used a Yamz 170hp V8 diesel. I've contacted (YT) a guy who has rebuilt one of these boats, and he has fitted the V6 version of this engine. My attempt is not like the original, as there is no info on the complicated internal deflector system, so I've gone with the next best thing using modified electrical conduit fittings with flap valves. Seems to work ok, but not sealed yet so leaks like a sieve. I'd use a 26mm jet unit for the pump in front of the unit. I'll have to reduce the diameter of the side outlets to get more force behind the jets. Might have to fit the unit in a waterproof tray with a bilge pump. as I think, even though it will be sealed, it will still leak slightly round the 3 shafts. https://youtu.be/7Lgb7hH6ln8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=altwiMdZlIA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yWSI8moMeZg&t=33s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87PsJVdPNhE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CQ3U7XmeG1A (similar later model showing manoeuvrability) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hblw4_44FB8 The big lid on the jet is for clearing weed or similar which might get into the unit.

Hi y’all. After building the Caldercraft Clyde Puffer, and taking a break from building for a few weeks, I decided it was time to crank up my bench again. I had originally started on a kit that I got in a trade, a Deans Wacht Am Rhein…this boat had been started some time ago, probably a good decade before I got my hands on it, and it’s been in my kit stash for a good 5 years or so now. The original builder got the rudder and tube installed and the aft and mid deck in place, and some bulwark detail. I was working on a motor mount when I decided I just didn’t want to deal with masts and rigging at this time. At some point I’m going to finish that boat…just not now. I’ve had a Graupner Krabbe Ton 12 in my kits stash for a bit. It’s the second version, when Graupner reorganized and sent the kit production to Asia, probably KYmodel. Same people who did the SAR rescue boat and the Taucher Wulf did this. It’s a nice little kit, well made, instructions are somewhat between the Tauchers “guidelines” and a Billings kit…better, but not quite there. Now, I know I said I didn’t want to fool around with a bunch of masts and booms and rigging, and the Krabbe has that in spades…so I decided to make something different. I thought about a slightly different take on a Kriegsfischkutter, or maybe a fishing boat to yacht conversion…but, I decided on a simple tug. Basically a 1930s or so diesel or converted steam tug, something smaller that you might see in the Great Lakes. With that decision out of the way I went to work. First thing I did was to make up a 4mm shaft and tube. I used a Caldercraft Fineline tube that I had stolen the shaft from. I have a small collection of tubes and shafts, and a very few that are complete. Anyway, the kit uses a 3mm unit, and that’s just an odd size. Nothing wrong with it, just most of the props and fittings I’ve seen are for 1/8th, 3/16th, 2mm and 4mm. The 3 mm props and such are just harder to get…so I made up the tube by cutting down the Caldercraft unit to the length I wanted, and using the bushing from the discarded end I built up the tube, and added an oiler. I then took on the task of choosing my power plant. The kit comes with a motor, a knock off of a Mabuchi RS380. My experience with these motors is that they make good model boat anchors. My first SAR that I built was completely stock, and I ran it on the recommended 6 cell nimh pack. After I had the boat completed and had about 6 good runs on it, she went dead in the water at Towne Lake. We retrieved it, and the motor had gotten hot, and the brush holders had softened from the heat and the brushes were not making contact….never again. I was thinking about my usual outrunner brushless, when I remembered I had a brand new MFA 2.5 to 1 380 sized geared motor in my possession. Went with that. After making up a mount and installing the shaft and tube I did a test run on the bench. At full chat, but no load it’spulling 0.07 amps on a 3 cell lipo. Once that was squared away I used part of the motor mount/radio tray combo to mount the rudder servo, got the rudder mounted, and started to make up the deck houses. One nice feature of this kit is that the deck slots into a groove in the hull. There are under deck stringers that are laser cut in the kit, once installed they give the deck a slight beam to beam curve. I used the kit parts to make up the aft coaming and house/hatch, and built up my fwd deckhouse and coming from plasticard. I then built up the wheelhouse using kit components..however, I built the deck and house “inside out”, i.e I’m not using the printed “decking” side as I’m probably going to paint the deck and house vs staining them. That’s where I’m at now. I think the wheelhouse, as built looks a little too tall. I might leave it as this is supposed to be a small, River or Great Lakes tug, not an ocean going boat, and in some of the pics I looked up to get an idea of how I wanted her to look, some of the real boats had tallish pilot houses. I might cut it down about a half inch, but haven’t made the choice yet. Once I make that decision I’ll finish up the house and start figuring out details and what job this boats going to have… Cash

My last words were "Complete the 44' MLB, then work on a non-boat project." The problem was, as you can see in the back-round inside that large sailboat hull, a 110' WPB patrol boat hull, with plans, not seen, the gunboat Philadelphia in a box in the truck, on top of that in the backseat is the 75% finished hull of a PBY flying boat. There are also unbuilt R/C aircraft kits X2 somewhere in the area, plus two ARF aircraft. (DHC-2 Beaver, and a Cessna 182, also in that ship's hull.) But my friends, last night I had a dream, and in it was of a gloss black, full rigged sailing yacht. Reasons, number one, the hull is straight and already built, I purposely purchased a hand-held sewing machine for sails, I figure i will need it for the Philadelphia as well. So, this week we begin, the rigging, and instructions for the same are pretty clear. I included that note from "Rob", because "Mark, or Rob" if you are out there, your "once vision" will be challenging the British in about nine months. I hope Fair Winds are in all of our futures. Kevin

I’ve been gifted a ready- made wooden pontoon style hull which I’m adapting into a model of the smallest CalMac ferry operating to the island of Kerrera from Gallanach(Oban) The vessel is 12 m long and can carry up to 12 pax & 1 small vehicle . Motive power is a pair of Honda 80 outboard motors. My model will be approx 1:24 scale powered by a brushed motor, with twin rudders. Eventually I intend to make dummy motors for the stern . I am in dire need of some suitable CalMac decals . If anyone still has any surplus BECC ones from their own build I’d gladly make you an offer! First pic with mock-up wheelhouse( probably oversize at moment!) Progress reports in due course

Was given the Occre kit of the “Ulises” ocean going tug for Christmas. Started the build this weekend but I reckon it is going to be a bit of a drawn-out build for a while as I have a lot going on with work and other things. I will gradually add photos of my progress… Re comment about kit suppliedpropshaft - I agree, I didn’t like the look of that one in the kit so I cut down an old one I had from something else, put the bearing back in with the addition of a touch of solder To make sure it stayed there and I added the oiler tube as well by soldering that on.

Hi Shipmates, After many years I finally found one at a good price £20 plus £10 p&p on good old Ebay. I have a load of hardware sitting around, motors rudders etc. So I decided to play about with this boat. Generally it is considered a waste of time and money to do anything with these boats. So I don't expect any 'Likes' on this project, its a bit of a daft thing to do. Information about 32in long twin stepped catamaran hull, beam 9.25 inches, thin ABS plastic. First stage. Unpack and check, strip out all of the hardware, generally unscrew components, most difficult thing was removing the propeller shafts. Second stage wash hull with warm soapy water (in the Bath) and remove stickers.

When I first posted a thread under ... a dreamproject.. I didn't realize it was the wrong forum category. So here is my built blog. I will spare you the original introduction as I have made progress which and most of you are already familiar with my project. The hull was built merging 2 methods on a simple keel plate from plywood, bow and stern structure bread and butter and hull in between 3mm planks on frame. The entire main deck is intended to be removable with a drainage irrigation system of plastic corner moulding (from a building supplier) along top of hull and flush at poop and back deck structure. The deck is made of 1/4" plywood skeletal structure incorporating midship deckhouse. Hull glassed with lightest cloth available after 2 coats 2-epoxy sealer and paint primer followed by final coat except top (above waterline) grey will be applied once I have finished doing any necessary adjustments. There have been a lot of them since I realized many inaccuracies in dims etc. I wasn't happy with. Here are photos in the progress (some may have already been posted in the original post. More a bit later next week.

One of my nine-year projects is coming to an end. I am sad to see it completed in some ways, overjoyed in others. Many projects have been begun and shelved over those nine years; some are in the trash now. What is known is the 213' WMEC-168 Yocona is hit or miss whether my attempts to waterproof a static hull will be successful. So on hold or a side project. The Gunboat Philadelphia is on-going at work between shifts. PBY that doesn't Fly I will place on hold, pending possible actual flight. (That will put three aircraft inline to be completed.) The battleship North Carolina....Big. Not so complex as physically large undertaking. SO, begin at the beginning as I tell my students. I pondered purchasing the laser-cut kit from Canada, but it is just frames, deck, and pilothouse. Yes, it is 1" to one foot scale, and would match my 44' MLB perfectly, but $286 plus shipping? For me too much, I will build at 1/24th scale for now. Small enough to store, big enough to detail and outfit with running gear. My 44 MLB, is a leaky, but I am installing an automatic bilge pump. I get so much joy out of running it, and I will have the tri-fecta of MLB's 36', 44', and 52'. The 213 should be complete around the time I finish, so four CG projects in a years time, plus the Philly is a quick build. So, it is a year, year and a half plan. This will be a slow one. Non Boat picture is project that is almost complete. Kevin

Started 2020 with plans by P F Eisnor from Nova Scotia 34 pairs of ribs

I bought this kit about 10 years ago from a German model shop. It is definitely old-school, with great detailed plans, detailed stock list, but no instructions beyond a couple of paragraphs. I have not built a model in 20 years but was very active in my youth 50 years ago. I find that my skills have deteriorated and this will not be a great build, but it is enjoyable solving the problems and figuring out how to build this thing. It has a plastic hull, a very nice plastic fitting set, but the rest of the kit is wood, with many pieces which have to be cut from printed sheets. Luckily, I have access to a wood shop with jigsaw and sanders. I have fitted out the hull, added the motors, and started the superstructure. Stay tuned for further progress, I hope.

Decided to do something other than a boat this time, but still with a nautical purpose,- a 6 wheel twin diff twin prop swimming truck. Been done before, but I thought I'd have a go at one of my own design. Drew up some side and end templates and made a start, Purchased all the mechanical bits, (diffs, front axle, prop shafts, props, ESC, wheels,) over a few months from uncle ALI and added them to stuff I had in my collection. Using cheap 3mm packing ply, I made the floor base ( to suit the diff and front axle widths) and strengthened it with 10x10 ally angle. Next,-cut out the sides and front and back panels. The floor was scored at the front and back to allow it to be bent up to the sides for gluing. Holes were cut in the floor to allow the diff heads to protrude through. I had to modify the front axle to suit the width of the diffs by adding in an ally angle center section. Also had a play with setting the diffs and drive-shafts up with universals. Drive motor is a 380 1500 RPM @ 12v geared reduction drive, which is the one I first used in my Jeep tow wagon for my Hartley, (replaced it with a 1000 RPM version for more torque) and uses a 3s LiPo and Quicrun 40A ESC.